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Full text of "The Land of the Lyre bird; a story of early settlement in the great forest of south Gippsland. Being a description of the Big Scrub in its virgin state with its birds and animals, and of the adventures and hardship of its early explorers and prospectors; also accounts by the settlers of the clearing, settlement, and development of the country"

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THE  LIBRARY 

OF 

THE  UNIVERSITY 

OF  CALIFORNIA 

LOS  ANGELES 


The  Land  of  the  Lyre  Bird 

A  Story  of  Early  Settlement  in  the 
Great    Forest    of    South   Gippsland 


Tirr.  iioMi:  mi-    im:   \,w\:    iwun. 


WHOLLY  SET  UP  AND  PRINTED  IN   AUSTRALIA 

BY 

J.    C.  STEPHENS  PTY.   LTD. 

28-30  BURNS  LANE 

MELBOURNE 


THE 


Land  of  the  Lyre  Bird 

A  Story  of  Early  Settlement  in  the 
Great    Forest    of    South    Gippsland 


Being  a  description  of  the  Big  Scrub 
in   its  Virgin  State  with  its  Birds  and  Animals,  and  of 
the  Adventures  and  Hardship  of  its  Early  Explorers  and  Prospectors 

Also 
Accounts  by  the  Settlers  of  the  Clearing, 
Settlement,  and  Developnient 
of  the  Country 


Published  for  the  Committee  of  the  .South  Gipiis'and  Pioneers'  Association 

by 

Gordon  and  Gotch  (Australasia)  Limited 

124-126  Queen  5t  ,  Melbourne 

1920 


PREFACE. 


This  volume  is  the  outcome  of  a  desire  on  the  part  of  the  authors  to  place 
on.  record  a  description  of  the  great  scrub  that  at  one  time  covered  a  large  tract 
of  country  in  south-eastern  Mctoria,  and  which  was  then  known  as  ''The 
Great  Forest  of  South  Gippsland";  together  with  an  account  of  the  interesting 
varieties  of  bird  and  animal  life  that  inhabited  its  \\'ild  and  scrub-covered 
ranges  before  the  axe  of  the  settler  had  destroyed  their  haunts  there  for  ever. 
And  then,  in  the  words  of  the  pioneei-s  themselves,  to  tell  the  story  of  the 
clearing  and  settlement  of  that  land — once  the  home  of  the  lyrebird  and  haunt 
of  the  dingo — right  up  to  its  present-day  stage  of  progress  and  development. 

The  idea  of  writing  such  a  book  first  originated  at  a  reunion  of  j^ioneers 
representing  Poowong,  Jeetho.  Jumbunna,  Korumburra,  Leongatha,  ^lirboo. 
and  the  surrounding  districts,  which  was  lu'ld  at  the  residence  of  ^Ir.  G. 
]\latheson.  of  ^h)yarra,  in  ]^.hirch,   1913. 

At  this  gathering  memories  and  incidents  of  the  scrub  and  of  early  set4Je- 
ment  were  recalled  and  recounted,  and  a  suggestion  was  made  that  a  work 
of  the  kind  here  produced  should  be  written.  Some  time  later  it  was  decided 
to  carry  out  that  suggestion,  and  a  committee,  consisting  of  Messrs.  G.  ^lathe- 
son.  W.  .T.  Williams.  F.  P.  Flms.  A.  AV.  Elms.  T.  .1.  Coverdale.  W.  IL  C. 
Holmes,  A.  Gihan,  J.  Western.  R.  .T.  Fuller.  M.  llalford.  W.  :\IcKcnzie- 
McHarg,  H.  Dowcll.  11.  N.  Scott.  W.  liainl)()\v.  and  A.  McLean  wa-^  ajipointed 
to  obtain  the  ncccssiu'v   materials  and   carry  out  the   work. 

By  this  committee  invitations  were  sent  to  iiianv  of  llie  old  pioneers  to 
give  their  recollections  and  experiences  of  the  eaily  davs:  while  others,  con- 
sidered .specially  fitted  to  do  so.  were  a^^ked  to  contribute  papers  of  a  descrip- 
tive or  historical  nature  on  i)ai'ti(ailar  subjects.  From  these  and  a  large 
number  of  ]>liotograpliie  views  and  portraits,  selections  for  the  book  were 
made.  But  the  outI;reak  of  the  (!reat  kairopeaii  W-.n.  in  I'.M  I.  lias  been 
responsibh^  for  the  delay  in  the  ]ii(Mliielioii  of  llic  work. 

Ill  the  arrangeiiient  of  tbe  l)ook.  Iiistoileal  <e(nieiice  lias  keen  oli.-erved 
as  far  as  possible,  and  tbe  iiajtei's  of  ''experience^""  have  been  ))Iaeed  in  order 
of  sequence,  according  to  the  arri\al  of  the  writers  in  tbe  district.  The 
photos  of  pioneei's  who  liave  written  ''experiences'"  api)ear  at  the  bead  of  tlieir 
papers:  the  photos  of  others  who  have  not  done  so  ap))ear  in  the  grouiis.  But 
the  ])lioto.<  of  many  of  the  old  pioneers  the  eoniniittce  was  nnabic  to  obtain. 

A\'ith  the  exception,  llieii.  of  an  interesting  opening  chaiiter  on  the  early 
history  of  Wes|erni»ort.  whence  sonic  of  the  settlers  came,  and  which  for  a, 
time  formed  a   base  of  o])ei'ati(»n    for  many  of  the  ])ioneers  in   the  hill-,   the 

715932 


book  i.<  the  .-^tory  of  the  great  scrub  and  its  conquests:  of  its  birds  and  its 
boasts;  of  its  iirst  explorers;  of  its  track  cutters  and  its  coal  seekers:  and  of  the 
settlers  and  their  work.  Also  of  the  Great  Fire  and  its  disasters,  with  many 
interesting  and  often  amusing  sidelights  on  the  kind  of  life  that  was  lived 
by  the  pioneers. 

Ill  must  Australian  settlements  a  majority  of  the  settlers  usually  came  from 
the  land  or  had  some  knowledge  of  country  life,  but  such  v\-as  not  the  case 
here;  a  large  number  of  them  were  from  the  towns — often  yonng  ]3eo])le  from 
the  families  of  professional  or  business  men,  and  with  the  education  habits  and 
general  outlook  of  their  class,  but  with  very  little  of  the  knowledge  required 
for  the  life  they  had  chosen.  Others  again — working  men — came  in  \nth 
little  or  no  capital,  depending  on  the  '"capitalists"  around  them  to  provide 
them  with  the  sinews  of  war  in  return  for  services  rendered. 

A^  the  undertaking  was  in  a  great  measure  experimental — no  similar  class 
of  country  having  been  settled  and  proved- — there  was  room  for  a  great  deal 
of  misdirected  energy.  The  land  was  one  of  great  expectations  from  the  way 
in  which  all  vegetation  grew,  and  it  is  ]irobable  that  many  of  the  settlers 
imagined  at  first  that  cutting  the  scrub,  clearing  up  after  the  burn,  and 
sowing  the  seed  would  be  the  extent  of  their  labours:  and^  after  that  they  would 
only  require  to  watch  their  stock  fatten  and  drive  them  to  market.  But  by 
reason  of  drawbacks  and  difficulties  unforeseen  these  rosy  anticipations  were 
not  fulfilled,  and  many  gave  up  the  struggle,  some  through  ill-health  or  want 
of  adaptability,  and  some  through  lack  of  resources  to  hold  on  through  the 
adverse  years.  Those,  however,  who  won  through  have  reason  to  be  proud  of 
theii-  nvork,  for  the  general  ])rosperity  of  the  district  and  its  value  to  the 
State  are  undoubted. 

Dealing  as  it  does  with  the  actualities  of  land  settlement,  apart  from 
any  political  or  academic  theories,  the  book  may  be  found  to  throw  some  light 
on  that  much-debated  question :  showing,  as  it  does,  how  men  with  the 
slenderest  capital,  or  none  at  all  in  some  cases,  but  with  plenty  of  pluck  and 
perseverance,  have  been  able  to  settle  successfully  some  of  the  most  heavily 
timbered  country  in  the  State,  and  that  without  any  Government  assistance 
whatever. 

In  the  work  no  pretence  has  been  made  at  literary  style  or  effect:  and 
no  thrilling  tales  of  adventure  \\ith  wild  animals  or  wild  races  of  men  will 
oe  found  in  its  pages.  The  courage  born  of  excitement  wjis  not  often  called 
forth,  but  the  courage  of  endurance  and  determination  was  required  all  the 
bim«.  In  its  pages,  however,  will  be  found  a  true  account,  by  those  who 
have  been  in  the  firing  line,  of  the  stern  battle  waged  against  nature  and  adverse 
3ircumstances  in  The  (Jreat  Forest  of  South  Gippsland. 


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Index. 


The  Early   History  of  Wi:sternport    (A.   W.   Elms) 17 

Old  Pastoral  Runs    (T.  J.   Coverdale) 29 

The   Scrub    (T.   J.   Coverdale) 31 

Animal,  and    Bird   Life  in  the  Scrub   (F.  P.  Elms)               48 

The   Lyre   Bird    (Miss   Gillan) 53 

Pack-Tracks  and  Packing   (W.  H.  C.  Holmes) 56 

Scrub   Cutting    (W.   H.   C.   Holmes) 67 

"  Picking   Up  "    (W.   H.   C.   Holmes) 79 

The  Roads,  and  How  We  Got  Them    (T.  J.   Coverdale) 89 

The  Pioneers   of   Poowong    (A.   Gillan) 99 

Recollections  and  Experiences — 

Caleb    Burchett 105 

Albert    Nicholas lOS 

T.   W.   Horsley 110 

T.    J.    Coverdale Ill 

H.    Dowel 134 

J.    Eccles 137 

Frank  Dodd 140 

A.    Gillan 149 

Mrs.    R.  J.    Fuller 155 

W.   H.    C.    Holmes .  160 

The   Lyre   Bird  in    South    Gippsland    (L.    C.    Cook)     181 

Surveying   Recollections    (J.   Lardner) 185 

Early  Coal  Exploration  in  Gippsland   (Reginald  A.  F.  Murray) 189 

Recollections  and   Experiences — 

A.    C.    Groom 198 

W.    M.    Elliott 199 

Mrs.    A.    R.    Smith 204 

W.    C.    Thomas 208 

J.    Glew 211 

T.    Horner 215 

W.   Johnstone 217 

M.    Han.sen 221 

The  Great  Southern   Railway    (R.  J.   Fuller) 226 

The  Coal  Industry  of  South   Gippsland    (M.   Halford) 235 

The   Dairying  Industry    (The   Committee)    213 

Spring-time   Milki.ng    (W.    Moore)     254 

Recollections  and   Experiences— 

.1.    A.    Black 256 

D.    McLeod 261 

A.    W.    Elms 266 

J.    Western 272 

G.    Matheson 279 

R.    N.    Scott 288 

W.  .1.   Williams 292 

W.    Rainbow 299 


hSDEX.—iContiiiueii). 

A  Fiery  Summer   (A.  W.  Elms) 305 

A   Lightning   Muster    (J.   Langham) 31^ 

The    Pastoral    Industry    (J.    Western)     317 

Recollections   and   Experiences — 

J.    Rainbow 322 

W.   McKenzie  McHarg 328 

R.    Cornall 332 

E.  Sheepway 336 

F.  P.    Elms 338 

J.    Halford 34G 

Mrs.    W.    J.    Williams 350 

Recollections  and  Personal  Experiences  of  the  Great  Fires  of  February, 

1898    (T.    J.    Coverdale) 354 

Australia   Phoenix    (Miss   F.   Finn) 3C.2 

A   Review    (R.    S.   B.   Young) 364 

Recollections  and   Experiences — 

A.    McLean 367 

Miss   C.   Elms 369 

Wm.    Watson 376 

Ben.    Brett 380 

James    Baker 383 

Pioneers  of  the  Danish   Settlement  at  East  Poowong    (M.  C.   L.  Hansen)  385 

Education    (W.    H.    C.    Holmes) 390 

The  Methodist  Church  in   South   Gippsland    (The  Rev.  Jas.   Smith)    ....  398 

The  Church  of  England    (W.  H.  C.  Holmes) ^^ 

The  Presbyterian   Church    (A.  Gillan) 

The    Catholic  Church     (E.    F.    Williamson)     ^*^^ 

Impressions  of  Gippsland   (Mrs.   M.   C.  Johnson) **^^ 

'The  Country  as  it  is,  1918   (P.  H.  Watkinson) 

JIeturn    Furnished    by    the    Victorian    Railway    Commissioners    for    the 
Period  of  5  Years,   1909-1914. 


12 


List  of  Illustrations. 


The    Home   of   the   Lyre   Bird    (H.    R.    Fowler) Frontispiece 

Pioneer    Gathering,    Moyarra,    1913    (C.    B.    Vaughn)     9 

Map   of   Locality 15 

Western   Port  Bay    (H.   R.   Fowler) 18 

Settlement   Point    (H.   R.   Fowler) 23 

Early    Pastoral   Runs 28 

Hazel    Scrub,    Ferns   and    Big   Timber    (R.    Bishop)     32 

Blanket   Leaf,  Hazel  and  Musk   Scrub    (H.   R.   Fowler) 36-37 

Sapling    Scrub    (H.    R.    Prowler) 43 

Heavy   Blanket   Leaf    Scrub    (H.   R.    Fowlei-)     46 

A  Native  Australian 48 

Opossums 51 

Male  Lyre   Bird 54 

Hen  Lyre  Bird 55 

Packing ' 59 

A   Pioneer's  Bridge 63 

Packing    Children    to    the    Pic-nic 66 

Scrub   Cutting 68 

A   Eiic   Tree   Scaffolded  to   IoOfi.    (G.   Dodd) 75 

Lyre  BmD's   Nest  in   Stump    (H.   Burrell) 78 

A   New   Burn 81 

Picking  Up 85 

Showing  Typical  Location  of  South  Gippsland  Road  (Country  Roads  Board)       91 

Deviation  on  Mount  View  Road   (Country  Roads  Board) 93 

On  the  Boolarr a- Foster  Road   (Seaton   Studio) 95 

Sea  View  to  Brown's  Saddle  Deviation    (Country  Roads  Board) 97 

Group  of  Poowong   Pioneers 101 

A    Pioneer's   Home,    1877 107 

A  Paling  Homestead 109 

The  Fringe  of  the  Scrub 119 

Western  Group  of  Pioneers 136 

Looking  Down  on  the   Scrub    (II.   K.   Fowlei) 145 

A  Bush  Home   (G.  Dodd) 148 

The  Homestead 152 

A   Newly   Felled   Tree 154 

An  Early  Homestead 156 

A    Balancing   Trick   by   the   St(jKiM    King    (J.    Davern)     167 

"  StCck  in  the  Mud  " 177 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS.-(Con//;///e^). 

The  Hen   Lyre  Bird    (Corpl.  L.   C.   Chandler) 182 

Male    Lyre    Bird   on    Dancing    Mound    (A.   Mattingly) 184 

Lyre   Bird's   Nest    (J.   H.   Burchett) 184 

Blanket   Leaf  and   Hazel   Scrub    (Georgina   Matheson)     186 

A  Man  Stump  Carved  bv  the  Fire 202 

Group  of  Lady  Pioneers 206 

A   Tree   184ft.    High   and   30ft.   in    Circumference 212 

A  Fallen  Giant   (Georgina  Matheson) 218 

After  Many  Years 233 

P'iRSt   Coal  from  the  Jumbunna   Mine    (K.   Bishop) 236 

Aerial   Tramway    (R.   Bishop) 240 

The  Evening  Muster 244 

Amid  the  Relics  of  the  Great  Forest 246 

Korumburra  Butter  Factory 250 

Milking   Time  ! 252 

"  While   the   White   Mists   Yet  are    Clinging  " 255 

A  Dairy  Herd 259 

Typical  Dw^elling  of  the  Early  Pioneers    (H.   R.   Fowler) 268 

Church,   School,  and  Public  Hall    (J.   G.   Bennett) 275 

A   Bit  of  the   Forest    (H.   R.   Fowler) 280 

Sapling  Country  Cleared  of   Scrub    (H.   R.   Fowler) 293 

Ripe  for  a  Forest  Fire   (H.  R.  Fowler) 30S 

Rick    Pastoral    Country    (H.    R.    Fowler) 318-319 

Hilly  and  Heavily  Timbered  Country  Cleared  of  Scrub   (H.  R.  Fowler)    . .     324 

Old  Track  Through  Big  Tree     334 

Illustrating  Peril  of  Homesteads  in  the  Big  Fire 356 

The   Preliminary    Scratching   of    the    Surface 365 

Ferns    (Georgina   Matheson) 372 

Group  of  Leongatha  Pioneers 379 

"Gullies  where  the  Rippling  Creek"    (H.   R.   Fowler) 411 

Poowong    (H.   R.   Fowler) 414 

Mirboo  North    (H.   R.   Fowler) 414 

Loch    (H.    R.    Fowler) 415 

Korumburra    (H.  R.  Fowler) 416-417 

Leongatha   (H.  R.  Fowler) 418-419 

Jumbunna   (H.  R.  Fowler) 421 

WoNTHAGGi    (H.    R.    Fowler)     422-423 

Hui.    Country   under   Cultivation    (H.    R.    Fowler)     424-425 

Hill  Country  used  as  Dairy  Farm   (H.  R.  Fowler)      424-425 

Good  Dairying  Country  (H.  R.  Fowler) 426-427 

Hilly  Country  Well  Cleared  (H.  R.  Fowler) 426-427 


14 


H 


The  Early  History  of  Westernport. 

MR.  A.  W.  ELMS. 

As  an  introduction  to  the  main  story  of  this  vokiine.  a  chapter  on  the 
history  of  Westernport  should  be  of  interest,  both  on  its  own  account  and 
as  conveying  some  idea  of  the  surrounding  country  previous  to  the  solitude 
of  the  inland  scrub  being  invaded  by  the  pioneers,  with  axe  and  fire,  in  their 
endeavour  to  make  homes  in  the  forest. 

Acknowledgment  has  to  be  made  to  the  works  of  Li.  G.  Turner  ('"History 
of  Victoria"),  Rusden  ("History  of  Australia"),  Labilliere  ("Early  History 
of  Aactoria"),  and  ("Letters  from  Victorian  Pioneers"),  collected  by  Governor 
Latrobe,  and  edited  by  Thos.  F.  Bride,  LL.D.,  Librarian  of  the  Melbourne 
Public  Library.  a>  the  principal  .sources  of  the  material  in  this  chapter,  and 
their  accounts  have  been  followed  as  closely  as  possible,  after  making  the 
cojidensation  neces.-ary  for  the  purpose  of  this  history. 

In  the  year  1797,  ten  years  after  the  settlement  of  Port  Jackson,  as  it 
was  not  known  whether  Tasmania  wa^  an  island  or  connected  with  the 
mainland,  Governor  Hunter  accepted  the  offer  of  Mr.  Bass,  a  yoimg  surgeon, 
to  explore  the  southern  "coastline.  Provided  with  a  whaleboat,  provisioned  for 
six  weeks,  and  with  a  crew  of  six  men,  Bass  sailed  from  Port  Jackson  on 
December  3rd,  1797,  and  explored  the  coast  from  Twofold  Bay  (which  he 
was  the  first  to  ent^r),  round  AVilson's  Promo]itory,  and  on  to  Westernport, 
which  he  reached  on  January  4th,  1798.  He  remained  there  a  fortnight,  care- 
fully examining  the  harbour  and  giving  his  boat  a  thoi'ough  os^erhaul.  Owing 
to  his  provisions  being  nearly  exhausted,  he  wa.-  rehic'tautly  coiii])elled  to 
return,  without  having  discovered  Port  Philli]).  or  liaving  definitely  ascer- 
tained the  existence  of  the  strait  which  now  hears  his  name,  though  the 
direction  of  the  currents  indicated  that  such  a  strait  existed.  On  his  return 
vftyage  he  found  on  one  of  the  islands  ofi'  Wilson's  Promontory,  a  part}-  of 
seven  convicts,  who  had  escaped  with  otliers  from  Sydney,  in  a  small  vessel, 
in  the  previous  October,  and  liad  been  treacherously  abandonevl  on  the  island 
by  their  coimades.  L'nable  t<^  sj)are  them  any  ])rovisions  without  risking  the 
lives  of  his  (uvii  jiarty,  but  unwilling  to  leave  them  to  starve,  he  transferred  them 
to  the  iiijiinlaiid.  where,  finding  that  two  of  them  were  too  weak  and  ill  to 
travel,  he  took  the>e  into  his  ali'eady  overci'ow<led  boat,  and  continued  his 
voyage,  after  directiuL;  ihe  othei'-  how  lo  pidceed  id  I'cucli  Sydney.  These 
started  on  their  long  journey,  but  were  lu'vei'  heard  of  -.igain.  After  encoun- 
tering adverse  winds  and  heavy  seas,  which  more  than  once  comj^elled  him  to 
beach  his  boat,  and  wait,  sometimes  for  days,  for  the  weather  t(»  moderate, 
he  reached  Port -lackson  on  I'^ehruary  24lh.   17'.),S.  after  an  aljsence  of  .S.')  days. 

The  next  to  visit  W  <'.-teniport  was  Lieut.  (Jrant,  in  connnand  of  the 
"Lady  Nelson,"  a  vessel  of  <)()  tons,  fitted  out  lor  making  surveys  and  dis- 
cttveries  on  the  .\ustralian  coast.  Leaving  the  Thames  on  January  13th.  LSOO, 
the  "Lady  Xel.~<)n"  reached  P(»rt  Jackson  on  l)eceml)er  Pjtli  of  the  same 
year,  and  was  the  first  vessel  1o  p.-iss  lln'<inL;,li  l>ass  Sti-ait.  On  ALarch  Sth, 
LSOO,  tdter  being  refitted,  she  ,~aile<l.  in  companN  wiili  ;i  ,-niall  cvnil  n\'  \~) 
tons,    named    ""  The    l>ee."    whicli.    liowexci-.    reliu'iied    lo     port    Jackson     on 


THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT.  19 

account  of  the  boisterous  weather.  The  "Lady  Nelson"'"  called  at  Jervis  Bay, 
passed  Wilson's  Promontory  and  Cape  Patterson,  and  entered  the  western  passage 
into  Westernport  on  ;March  21st.  Two  small  islands  near  the  entrance  were 
found  to  be  covered  with  seals  or  sea  elephants,  some  of  thein  nearly  as 
large  as  a  Ijullock.  Some  time  was  spent  in  exploring,  and  looking  for  fresh 
water  streams.  Churchill  Island  was  named  after  John  Churchill,  of  DawlL«h, 
Devonshire,  who  had  supplied  Lieut.  Grant  with  a  variety  of  seeds  when 
leaving.  The  situation  and  fertility  of  the  island  pleased  him  so  much  that 
he  conceived  the  idea  of  making  a  garden  there.  On  March  28th  he  went 
on  shore  with  a  party  to  clear^he  ground,  and.  having  burnt  a  space  of 
about  20  rods,  dug  it  Vith  an  old  coal  shovel,  the  only  implement  available. 
Then  several  sorts  of  garden  seeds  were  sown,  as  well  as  maize,  wheat,  peas,  rice, 
coffee,  and  potatoes.  With  the  trunks  of  trees  a  blockhouse  about  24ft.  x  12ft. 
was  built,  and.  around  this,  kernels  and  stones  of  fruit  trees  were  j^lauted. 

On  December  5th.  ISOI.  the  "Lady  Nelson*"  again  visited  VvV.sieruport. 
this  time  under  the  command  of  Lieut.  ^lurray.  He  proceeded  to  Churchill 
Island,  and  found  everything  about  the  plantation  as  it  aa-l  been  left.  'I'lie 
Avheat  and  corn  were  m  full  vigour,  six  feet  high  and  nearly  ripe.  The 
onions  had  gone  to  seed,  Imt  the  potatoes  had  di^^aj^peared.  no  doul)t  eaten 
by  animals.  The  grain  was  harvested  and  used  for  feeding  some  young  swans. 
Thus  ended  the  first  attempt  at  agriculture  in  Victoria.  The  "Lady  Nelson." 
after  being  detained  some  time  in  AVesternport  by  bad  weather,  sailed  on 
January  Irth.  180:2.  and  on  the  following  day  the  entrance  to  Poi-t  Phillii) 
was  discovered,  but  adverse  weather  ctmditions'  prevented  the  \essel  entering 
the  harl)our  until  Fel)ruary  loth. 

In  the  following  year  (1.S03)  Lieut.  Collins  wa.^  instructed  to  form  a 
settlement  at  Port  ]*liillip,  ni  order  to  anticipate  any  attempt  on  the  part  of 
the  IVench  to  establish  themselves  in  Australia.  The  site  of  the  i)resent  city 
of  Melbourne  was  nor  chosen,  owing  to  the  blacks  l)eing  numerous  and 
aggressi\e.  and  Port.^ea  was  selected  instead.  After  existing  a  year  the 
settlement  was  al)andoned  and  transferred  to  Tasnuuiia. 

Towards  the  end  of  1n('4  Lieuts.  Kol)bins  and  OxU-y  were  despatched  in 
the  (iovernment  cuttei'  ••Integrity"  t(»  report  on  the  most  suitable  place — 
eithei-  at  Port  Phillip  or  ^Vesternport — for  a  post  of  occui)an('y.  without 
regai-(l  to  the  future  for  agricultural  settlement.  They  devoted  their  time 
exclusively  to  an  exanimaticm  of  Westerni)ort.  and  they  jointly  condemned  it. 
Lieut.  Ivobbins.  who  had  accompanied  Mr.  (irinii's.  m  siirxeyoi-.  at  the  examina- 
tion of  Port  Phillip  in  1808.  considered  the  most  suitable'  spot  was  the  fresh 
watei-  I'iver  (the  ^'aria).  at  the  head  of  l*ort  PliiHi|).  while  Lieut.  Oxley 
stated  tliat  if  l^orl  Phillip  was  unsnilal)lc.  ^^'(■-^t(MIip(ll•l  was  infinitelv  worse, 
and  could  nexcr.  from  any  point  of  \  icw.  lie  t'oiisidered  (it  for  settle- 
nifiil.  Fioni  this  time,  for  a  period  of  oxer  I'O  years,  the  whole  of  what  is  now 
\  icli.i'ia  appeal's  to  ha\-e  lie(  n  de^erlech  excepl  h\-  occasional  \isits  of  sealers 
and   whalers. 

Lit  crest  w  ;i-  aga  in  aroiiM'd  in  t  he  phice  in  con--e(|iience  of  ulow  ing  accounts 
given  by  Ilnine  and  lioxcll  of  ricii  p|;ii?is  di>ci)\cred  b\-  tlieni  in  the  neighbour- 
hood of  what  was  at  lir>l  thoiii^hl  lo  lie  We-tefiipoil .  but  was  sub.sequently 
found  to  be  near  (ieelong.  on  I'mi  IMiillip.  (  )n  receipt  of  theii-  i-eport  in 
Sydney  and  Tasmania,  expectation-  ran  high  as  to  the  future  of  \\'esternport, 
which  was  desci'iix'd  in  the  news|)apers  as  the  site  of  the  coming  meti-opolis'. 
Added  to  this  was  the  dread  that  the  Fi-ench  contemplated  forming  settlements 
in  the  imoccnpicd   paiM-  of  Aii-tialia.  and   Sii'   IJalpli    Darling  was  instructed 


•2(1  THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT. 

hv  the  Colonial  Oflice  to  form  a  post  of  occupation  at  Westernport  and 
another  at  King  Georue's  Sound  in  order  to  claim  the  country  by  right  of 
possession.  In  pursuit  of  this  policy.  H3I.S.  "P"ly.*"  commanded  by  Captain 
AVetherall,  and  the  l)rig  "Dragon"  sailed  with  -lO  soldiers.  20  convicts,  and  a 
few  women,  mostly  soldiers"  wives,  on  November  ;>th.  iN-JO.  In  charge  of  the 
party  Avas  Captain  Wright  and  Lieut.  Burchell.  and  Mr.  Howell  accompanied 
the  expedition  to  point  out  the  land  disco\'eied  by  him  and  Mr.  Hume. 
Westernport  was  reached  on  Xovember  21th.  ancl  on  working  their  way 
through  the  AVestern  passage  they  were  surprised  to  see  a  number  of  men 
clothed  in  sealslrin  garments  on  the  Ijeach.  Ther-e  were  sealers,  originally 
from  Tasmania,  who  had  lived  on  the  island  for  some  years  and  had  built  log 
hnts  and  grown  crops  of  wheat  and  maize.  They  ^^tated  that  the  French 
corvette  "Astrolabe*"  had  been  in  the  harbour  only  a  few  weeks  jireviously. 
and  had  stayed  there  six  days.  After  a  careful  examination  of  the  harbour 
Captain  AVetherall  decided  to  form  a  settlement  clo^e  to  where  Corinella  now 
stands. 

On  December  lltli  the  s(ddiers  and  convicts  were  landed  at  the  m</Uth  of  a 
small  creek  in  the  Eastern  passage,  two  miles  east  of  Settlement  Point  and 
six  miles  dne  north  of  the  Bass  River.  Tents  were  pitched,  huts  were  erected, 
and  bricks  were  burnt  for  the  erection  of  the  more  substantial  houses  in  con- 
templation. Captain  AA'etherall  at  first  spoke  enthu>iastically  <^f  the  harbour, 
the  country  and  climate,  but  later  on  altered  his  opinion.  Captain  AVright. 
who  returned  to  Sydney,  condennied  the  site  that  Inul  been  selected-  stating 
that  the  \ery  small  (juantity  of  good  land  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  settle- 
ment, and  the  sterile,  swampy  and  imi)enetrable  nature  of  the  country  led  him 
to  believe  that  it  did  not  possess  sufficient  capal)ilities  for  colonisation  on  a 
large  scale.  ^Meanwhile  Captain  AA'etherall  had  cleared  a  site  on  a  fiat  topped 
hill,  on  Phillip  Island.  c(»mmanding  the  entrance,  erected  a  Haastalf,  and 
placed  a  couple  of  six-pounder  guns  from  the  shij)  ni  i)osit;on.  over  which  he 
formally  hoisted  the  Union  Jack  and  christened  the  battery  Fort  Dumaresq. 
He  also  cleared  a  track  nearly  three  miles  long  across  the  island,  and  thus 
laid  the  first  military  road.  Hovell  made  his  hrst  exploration  eastward 
towards  Cape  Liplrap,  where  he  found  a  c(jnsiderable  area  of  good  land,  but  an 
insufficient  supply  of.  water,  and  he  also  found  the  coal  dejxisits  at  Cape 
Patterson.  On  his  return  he  made  a  twehe  days'  exi)edition  and  jjenetrated 
the  open  counti-y  between  Cranbourne  and  AVestern])ort.  He  made  a  third 
start,  but  got  entangled  in  the  thickets  surrou.nding  the  Kooweerup  Swamp, 
and  then  striking  west  made  his  way  over  the  timbered  rises  behind  Mount 
Eliza  until  he  reached  Port  Phillip  near  Fra?ikston. 

In  January,  1S2S,  as  the  fear  of  French  occupation  no  longer  existed, 
the  Governor  sent  the  ship  •Tsabella""  to  bring  the  soldiers  and  convicts  back 
to  Sydney.  The  few  fi-ee  settlers  did  not  care  to  V)e  left  without  ])rotection, 
and  the  settlement  was  abandoiied. 

The  followiiig  descriptions,  taken  from  despatches,  will  give  an  idea  how 
the  country  ap];eared  to  those  who  visitetl  it  at  that  ])eriod: — 

Captain  AA^etherall,  in  a  despatch  dated  27  ^12/26,  writes: — "The  main- 
land from  hence  (Phillip  I.)  to  the  P>ass  Rive  is  hilly,  of  moderate  elevation, 
thinly  timbered,  the  soil  rich  and  Avell  clothed  with  luxurious  grass,  but  fi-om 
the  broken  nature  of  the  country  fit  only  for  grazing."" 

Captain  AA^i'ight  states,  in  a  despatch  to  the  Colonial  Secretary  dated 
26/1/27: — "Commencing  at  the  Eastern  Passage,  a  chain  of  hills  runs  in  a 
N.E.  direction  uearlv  parallel  with  the  Pass  River,  and  at  a  distance  of  three 


THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT.  21 

miles  from  it.  ]"hi>  ciinin.  for  six  miles  from  the  coast,  is  thinly  wooded  and 
well  clothed  with  <ira».  It  tiien  assumes  a  rugged  and  broken  character,  with 
thick  impenetrable  scrub.  T\\v  country  l)etween  the  foot  of  the  ranges  and 
the  Bass  River  i.s  low  and  marshy,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  spots  of 
meadow  land.  The  noi-tli  bank  of  the  ri^er  down  to  within  one  mile  of  its 
monih  is  fine  open  meadow  land,  with  patches  of  tea-tree  swamp.  It  bears, 
however,  evident  mai'ks  of  l)eino'  subject  to  immdation." 

Abont  this  time  the  attention  of  pe(>ple  in  Tasmania  was  drawn  to  both 
the  Port  Phillip  and  Westerni)ort  districts  as  suitable  for  stock  raising,  and 
ap])]icati()ns  for  grants  of  hind  and  offers  to  pnrchase  were  sent  to  the 
authorities  at  Sydney,  but  were  refused,  as  it  was,  at  that  time,  considered 
unwise  to  extend  settlement.  In  Is-JC)  T.  Smith,  of  Ho!)art.  made  an  applica- 
tion for  land  at  AVesternport.  and  in  the  folU)wing  year  <i.  T.  Gellibrand  and 
John  Batman  asked  for  a  grant,  and  i)roposed  to  ship  1500  to  "2000  shee])  and 
80  head  of  superior  cattle,  beside  oxen,  horses,  etc.,  malcing  altogether  a  value 
of  from  £'4000  to  £5000.  but  both  applications  were  refused. 

The  next  record  \v»'  have  of  AVesternjiort  is  by  C'a])tain  Hart,  master  of 
the  schooner  "Elizaljeth."  of  Launceston.  owned  by  ,Jolin  (Triihths.  and 
generally  used  for  whaMng  and  sealing  on  the  coasts  and  islands  of  Victoria 
and  Tasmania.  It  seems  that  during  the  slack  seasons  in  those  industries  the 
men  were  emj)loyed  in  collecting  wattlebark.  Captain  Hart  states: — "AA'e  left 
Launceston  in  the  latter  i)art  of  November.  1S83.  having  on  board  a  team  of 
bullocks,  a  dray.  ai;d  some  '20  men.  besides  the  crew.  "We  entered  the  heads 
of  Westernj)ort  iji  the  beginning  of  December,  and  anchored  under  Phillip 
Island.  AA'e  saw  the  jilace  where  a  settlement  had  been,  ruins  of  houses  and 
Avorksho])s.  with,  bi-oken  crockei'y.  etc.  The  land  \va-~  bad.  and  there  were  no 
■wattle  trees,  ^^'e  stood  up  the  harl)our.  and  were  surprised  to  lind  the  deep- 
water  channel  marked  with  beacons  on  each  side.  We  anchored  abreast  of 
the  ruins  of  another  settlement,  and  landed  the  teams  and  men.  Here  wen^ 
the  remains  of  houses  and  gardens,  grass  was  very  abundant,  and  the  watlle 
trees  the  largest  I  have  evei-  seen.  AVe  were  employed  for  a  fortnight  collect- 
ing bark,  and  saw  traces  of  numerous  cattle,  and  shot  a  white  bull.  iMuditig 
the  bai'k  so  abiuidaut.  I  loaded  the  schooner,  and  proceeded  t(»  Sydney,  leaving 
the  shore  party  behind  to  collect  more  bark'.  I  sold  my  cargo  to  a  ship  bound 
for  Loiulon,  and  chartered  the  ship  'Andromeda*  to  load  bark  in  Westei'U- 
port  for  London.  ))utting  on  board  Mr.  Thorn,  my  mate,  as  pilot  and  su]iei'- 
cargc.  I  pi'oceeded  to  Launceston  to  gi\c  an  account  of  my  trip  to  the  owner 
and  otlici's.  I  spolce  in  high  terms  of  l!u'  laud  and  the  gi'ass.  gix'ing  the  size 
of  the  miuio'-a  trees  a^  pro(d'  of  the  one  and  the  condition  of  the  cattle  as 
the  result  of  the  other.  A^dl('n.  howexcr.  the  "Andi-omeda"  arri\ed  to  get  her 
clearance  at  the  ("u^toui^  Ilouvc  at  Lainicc-ton.  the  fame  of  the  ])lace  was 
s])read  far  and  near  l»y  the  returned  barkcutter--.  Afany  of  these  were  farming 
men.  born  in  Tasmania,  and  they  at  once  saw  the  ad\antages  of  this  ])ai"t 
V)eyoiul  that  of  their  o\\ii  country.  I  bi'ought  vast  ((uantities  of  black  swans, 
which  we  pulle(l  down  while  moulting.  The  waters  of  A\'eslei'npoi't  were 
covereil  with  these  birds.  The  '.Kndiomeda"  ai'ri\ed  in  London  in  April, 
LS:',.-).  and  the  cargo  ^old  at   I'b')  a  Ion." 

Li  the  year  IH;');")  another  attempt  was  made  fi-om  Tasmania  to  settle  in 
the  A\'estei'ni)ort  district,  dohn  l*ascoe  Fawknei-  arranged  with  oth<>rs.  and 
sailed  from  (Teoi'getown  in  the  schooner  '"Enterprise,"  of  55  tons.  Bad  weather 
was  encountei-ed.  and  after  Ix'ing  buffeted  about  foi-  three  week's  within  sight 
of  Tasman  heads.  Fawk'nei-  was  so  prostrated  that  the  captain  returned  and 


22  THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT. 

])iit  him  ashore.  The  others  reached  Westernport,  and  spent  a  ^A'eek  of  cohl. 
rain  and  discomfort  in  explorinc;  it.  Amidst  tlie  chilly  winter  surroundings 
the  place  looked  so  di-coui'aii'inir  that  they  abandoned  it  as  unfit  for  settle- 
ment. 

In  a  report  on  the  Port  Phillij^  Settlement  dated  10/0/30.  the  following 
notes  aj^i^ear: — "Tn  the  Sprinir  of  the  year,  when  the  whalinof  season  is  over, 
it  is  the  custom  of  the  men  belonofino-  to  this  establishment  (Henty's  at  Port- 
land) to  em]:)loy  themselves  in  collecting'  mimosa  l)ark.  Little  a])pears  to  be 
known,  by  the  residents  of  Port  Phillip  relative  to  the  country  about  ^Vestern- 
port,  but  the  impression  seems  to  be  that  there  is  at  the  latter  place  but  a  small 
extent  of  available  country  compared  with  the  former.  On  our  way  to  Port 
Phillip,  being  caught  in  the  Straits  by  a  gale  of  wind,  which  compelled  us  to 
put  into  "Westernport  to  repair,  I  took  the  opportunity  of  visiting  the  country 
where  the  settlement  formerly  was  (about  eight  miles  from  where  we 
anchored),  and  walked  for  some  miles  through  as  rich  a  country  as  I  have 
seen.  It  was  thickly  cl-')thed  with  kangaroo  grass  upwards  of  three  feet  high, 
and  on  mentioning  this  at  Port  Phillip  was  informed  that  in  this  district 
there  are  excellent  cattle  stations,  but  the  ground  is  considered  too  wet  for 
sheep." 

In  the  following  year  K.  L.  !Min-ray.  of  Dyrryrne.  Tasmania,  applied  to 
the  Colonial  Secreiary  of  Xew  South  Wales  on  behalf  of  a  jjarty  of  gentlemen 
and  himself,  asking  to  be  jjermitted  to  purchase  from  the  Crown  50,000  acres 
of  land  at  Westernport.  to  be  selected  fairly  as  regards  water  and  every  other 
frontage,  taking  good  and  bad  together.  For  this  they  offer  to  pay  5/-  per 
acre,  and  to  pav  the  (irovernment  a  quit  rent  of  10/-  per  100  acres  towards 
defraying  the  expense  of  a  (lovernment  establishment  for  their  protection. 

In  1838  an  application  was  made  to  the  Colonial  Secretary  of  Xew  South 
Wales  by  a  party  of  eight  gentlemen  from  Hobart  for  permission  to  work 
the  coal  de])osits  known  to  exist  at  Westernport.  They  intended  running  a 
steamer  between  Tasmania.  Port  Phillip  and  Adelaide,  and  Avished  to  estab- 
lish a  coaling  port  on  the  way,  as  they  considered  the  vessel  could  not  carry 
enough  ccjal  to  last  fi'om  Hobart  to  Adelaide  and  back  again.  This  raised  the 
question  Avhether  the  monopoly  of  coal  granted  to  the  Australian  Agricultural 
Co.  for  a  period  of  31  years  from  1830  included  the  Westernport  seams. 
Many  letters  and  documents  passed  in  relation  to  the  question;  but  ultimately 
Sir  George  Gipps  was  ordered  to  take  such  measures  as  would  ensure  to  the 
setflers  of  Port  Phillip  the  benefit  of  the  mines. 

At  this  time  considerable  activity  was  displayed  in  taking  sheep  from 
Tasmania  across  to  Port  Phillip  for  the  purpose  of  stocking  the  stations 
being  established  in  the  Western  District.  The  story  of  one  disastrous  ship- 
ment will  give  a  picture  of  Westernport  at  the  time.  On  January  iTth.  1836, 
the  '"Xorvar'  sailed  from  1'asmania  for  Port  Philli])  with  1100  sheep  on  board. 
A  .severe  gale  was  encountered,  and  the  vessel  was  hove  to  for  three  nights 
and  two  days,  during  which  time  about  115  .sheep  perished,  and  the  greater 
portion  of  their  food  was  destroyed.  The  .stock  left  had  to  be  fed  on  flour 
and  water  to  keep  them  alive.  As  the  vessel  was  under  demurrage  at  £1  ])er 
day  until  she  anchored  in  Westernport  to  load  wattlebark,  and  there  Avas  a 
great  risk  of  the  sheep  dying  before  they  could  be  landed  at  Port  Phillip,  it 
Avas  decided  to  land  them  at  Westernport  and  drive  them  across  to  the  settle- 
ment at  Port  Phillip.  Attempts  Avere  made  both  at  Sandy  Point  and  Philli]) 
Island  to  find  suitable  s])ots  for  landing  the  sheep,  but  Avithout  success,  and 
eventually   they   proceeded  ten    miles  fiirther   up   the  bay   and   landed   1009 


THE     EARLY      HISTORY     01-'     WESTERNPORT. 


■2:i 


SETTLEMBXT    POINT.— Chimp    of    Pines    innrkiiijr    Site    of    First    Settlement. 


si:'i'ii,i:.Mi:.\T    roi  \'i' 


24  THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT. 

sheep,  ^^'llell  laiuleil.  the  shee})  eiuleavoured  to  drink  miU  water,  and  saAe 
much  trouble  throuii'h  breaking"  away.  At  niirht  they  were  <'ani])ed  on  a 
promontory  of  about  '^00  acres  with  a  neck  of  hind  about  l')0  vards  across. 
The  >hepherds  left  in  chai'<>'e,  instead  of  canii)ino-  on  this  neck  of  land  to  watch 
the  sheep,  camped  on  the  beach,  with  the  result  that  next  mornino-  the 
sheep  Avere  missing".  Several  days  were  spent  in  lookino-  for  them,  and  the 
carcases  of  about  '2H0  were  found  in  a  muddy  s'altwater  creek.  Some  of  the 
party  remained  to  trace  the  missing  sheep,  while  others  walked  to  the  settle- 
ment on  the  Varra.  which  is  described  as  consisting  of  about  half  a  dozen 
huts.  P^ventually  only  al)out  80  sheep  were  recovered,  the  remainder  falling 
a  in-ey  to  the  wild  dogs  or  the  natives.  A  cui'ious  point  in  connection  with 
this  expedition  is  that  in  one  account  Mr.  ]Mudie.  who  had  cliarge  of  the  stock, 
is'  reported  to  have  been  drowned  by  the  caj^sizing"  of  a  l)oat  vv  hile  landing  the 
sheep,  while  another  statement  describes  him  as  staying  liehind  to  look  for 
the  lost  shee]i  after  some  of  the  party  had  started  on  their  walk  to  Melbourne. 

About  Jid}'.  1(S3'.).  Robert  Jamieson,  who  had  a  station  extending  along 
the  eastern  shores  of  Port  Phillip,  carted  a  whaleboat  to  \Vestern]:)ort,  and 
explored  the  country  surrounding  it.  In  consequence  he  took  ])osses'sion  of 
the  run  at  the  head  of  the  Tiay,  known  afterwards  as  Yallock.  and  brought 
his  stock  there.  He  remained  there  until  the  year  1845.  He  states  that  for 
a  considei-al)le  time  after  occupying  Yallock,  the  only  settlers  beyond  him 
were  Messrs.  Anderson  and  ^lassie,  who  had  an  agricultural  settlement  on  the 
Bass  River,  and  sent  their  produce  to  market  by  water.  em]doying  for  that 
purpose  small  vessels  of  from  :20  to  HO  tons  burden.  The  blacks  are  spoken 
of  as  being  friendly,  except  on  rare  occasions,  when  the  (jij^psland  natives 
attacked  the  ^Testernport  tribes.  On  one  of  these  raids  they  attacked  the 
station,  and  did  consideral)le  damage,  but  no  lives  were  lost. 

The  limit  of  settlement,  in  Latrol)e's  early  days  (183(t-ls40).  had  not 
extended  much  beyond  Dandenong,  though  a  few  scattered  settlers  had  taken 
uj:)  country  for  stock  in  the  neighl)ourhood  of  Cranl)ourne  and  around  the 
margin  of  AVestern[)ort  Bay.  Their  eastern  ])rogress  had  been  arrested  by 
the  dense  and  api)arently  interminable  forests  covering  the  country  below  the 
ranges,  in  attempting  to  avoid  which  they  fell  in  with  a  succession  of 
treacherons  swamps  heavily  covered  with  an  almost  imjjenetrable  thicket  of 
tea-tree  and  rotting  vegetation. 

Another  note  states  that: — "'Begimiing  at  the  east  entrance  of  Western- 
port  Bay.  the  first  station  was  Massie  and  A.nderson's  cultivation,  known  as 
the  Old  Settlement  station,  fi'om  the  circumstance  of  there  having  been  a 
s'ettlement  formed  there  some  years  previously  (though  not  at  the  exact  spot 
they  occui^ied),  and  afterwards  abajidoned.  At  that  period  (1841-1843)  a 
considerable  number  of  wild  cattle,  suj^j^osed  to  have  been  the  increase  of 
some  that  were  left  when  the  original  station,  was  abandoned,  were  running 
in  the  neighbourhood.  About  two  miles  from  them  was  Armstrong,  who 
succeeded  John  Thorn  (mentioned  previously  as  mate  of  the  'Eilizabeth'), 
Avho  succeeded  Massie  and  Anderson.  About  five  miles  from  Armstrong"  were 
Cuthbert  and  Gardiner  (original  settlers),  whose  cattle  came  from  the  Red 
Bluff.  12  miles  np  the  bay,  about  1842.  Then  came  Fitzherbert  M.  INIundy 
(original  settler)  at  the  Red  Bluff,  and  about  seven  miles  from  him  "Martin, 
"who  succeeded  Robert  Jamieson.  About  four  miles  from  him  Robert 
Jamieson  (original  settler).  These  weie  all  the  settlers  at  that  time  on  the 
east  side  of  the  saltwater  inlets.  The  natives  seldom  visited  the  counti'v  on 
the  east  side  except  on  Avar  excursions." 


THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT.  25 

111  1831).  ^k'Millaii,  the  discoverer  of  Gippslaud,  reached  Oiiieu,  and 
formed  Xuhhimiingee  station,  on  the  Taniho  river.  From  a  favouring 
prominence  the  phiin  coiintrv  coidd  he  seen,  and  in  Jannarv.  1840,  ]:)iloted 
l)y  two  native.^.  ^k'Millau  arid  several  others,  reached  it.  Followino-  close 
upon  them  was  the  explorinir  party  organised  by  James  ^lacarthur,  and  led 
by  Count  Strzelecki.  The  following  account,  for  which  1  am  indebted  to  Mr. 
W.  F.  Gates,  M.A..  Inspector  of  Schools,  gives  a  detailed  account  of  this 
journey  through  Gippsland: — 

'•In  1840  Strzek'cki  agreed  to  lead  a  party  south  from  the  outlying 
settlements  on  the  Murrumbidgee  to  Wilson's  Promontory.  His  intention  was 
(he  tells  us)  to  strike  south  from  the  crossing  place  on  the  ^lurrumbidgee. 
along  the  meridian  of  148  degrees  PI.  to  bisect  the  dividing  range  in  latitude 
37  degrees  S..  to  i-esume  the  southern  direction  and  follow  windings  of  the 
range  to  Wilson's  Promontory,  then  to  re-bisect  it  in  the  direction  of  Western- 
port."    He  did  ;i,ot  carry  out  this  i)rogramme  as  regards  AVilson's  Promontory. 

Among  his  party  wvw  .hniu's  Macarlhur  (of  Ganidtii  Park).  Kiley.  and 
Charley  Tarra.  an  aboriginal  of  (touUmu'ii.  Xew  South  Wales,  who  proved  a 
most  useful  meml)er. 

Leaving  3dacart]un'"s  stati.m.  they  fnllowcd  tlic  valley  of  the  I'pper 
Murray  for  about  70  miles  to  the  foot  of  the  ranges.  TraAclling  was  diHicult. 
the  ridges  to  be  crossed  were  numberless  and  steep,  and  often  the  instruments 
had  to  be  carried  on  the  backs  of  the  ex]ilo]'ers  for  safety.  ''But.'"  says 
Strzelecki.  "on  the  loth  of  I'\'brriarv  1  found  myself  on  an  elevation  of 
6510  feet  under  a  lucid  sky.  7000  miles  of  country  in  view.  The  mountain 
reminded  me  forcibly  <d"  a  tumulus  erected  in  Krakow  over  the  tomb  of  the 
patriot  Kosciusko."  He.  therefore,  n-inied  the  i-oof  of  Australia  ^roinit 
Kosciusko. 

Thence,  he  tra\elled  south,  and  came,  unexpecti'dly.  on  La]<e  Omeo.  The 
existence  of  this  lake  Inul  been  kno\\n  before,  but  not  its  exact  location.  He 
ascended  ]MouiU  I'ombo  (presumably  Mount  Tiimbo).  Lake  Omeo,  he 
thought,  might  ha\e  been  the  ]al»oratory  for  the  \-olc;inic  action,  evidences 
of  which  were  iU'ound. 

Fi'om  thi>  |)h\ce  he  foMowed  the  course  <d  the  Tiiinbo  Aallev  down.  Li 
this  i)ai't  of  liis  joui'iiev  he  \\;is  liut  foMowiiig  the  route  of  Angus  Mc^Lllan. 
who  had,  a  few  months  before,  crossed  (  n])psl;ind  from  north  to  south,  and 
had  just  established  a  catth'  station  on  the  Taml>o.  The  manager  of  the 
station  gave  Strzelecki  full  in  foniialioii  of  McMilhm'-  rouU'.  and  conducted 
him  on  the  way  a  day's  journey. 

F'ollowing  the  Tainbo,  the  party  came  to  a  long  lagoon,  whidi  was  con- 
nected with  a  liiii'  lake,  bordering  on  the  -ea  (Lake  l\ing).  Tui-ning  west, 
they  followed  the  -liore  of  the  lake  till  the  Mitchell  river  was  met.  This 
.stream  the  paily  cro.^sed.  carryini.''  the  pad^s.  for  safety,  on  their  shoulders, 
somewhei-e  about  the  present  siie  of  Lindenow.  They  were  now  in  totally 
unex|)loi-ed  country,  and  lhe\'  follo\\c(|  a  south-westerly  course  almost  on  the 
line  of  the  liairnsdale  |-ail\\ay.  lo  the  neighbourhood  of  the  lU'esent  site  of 
Maifra.  l\v\('  they  spent  three  days  exploring  the  siu'romiding  country. 
Lake  King  was  so  named  l»y  Strzelecki  after  Captain  King.  R.N.:  the  Thom- 
son after  Deas  Thomson,  then  Colonial  Secretary,  and  (wo  small  streams 
after  Riley  and  .Macarthur.  The  la~l  \\\i>  names  have  not  been  retained. 
Gijipslavul  wa.-  so  namefl  by  Strzelecki  in  lionoui'  nf  (Jovernor  Gipps. 


26  THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OF     WESTERNPORT. 

Travelliiii!-  through  a  comparatively  easy  country,  they  kept  a  south- 
westerly course  towards  C'oriier  Inlet.  The  '•'willow"  scrub  that  fringed  the 
"Machonochie"  river  gave  them  a  good  deal  of  trouble;  but,  after  two  days 
a  crossing  wa>  found;  and  a  few  miles  more  brought  them  to  the  La  Trobe 
river,  which  they  struck  about  the  vicinity  of  Rosedale.  This  river  was 
named  after  (lovernor  La  Trobe.  On  the  Count's  map  it  is  wrongly  drawn 
as  liowing  direct  into  the  sea.  On  this  part  of  the  country  Strzelecki  notes 
"wide  and  deep  valleys  to  the  north-west,  and  hill  and  ranges  to  the  south 
and  south-west,  innumerable  creeks,  and  the  exuberant  vegetation  of  a  moist, 
untouched  soil.'*     Their  troubles  were  beginning. 

From  the  La  Trobe,  the  course  to  Corner  Inlet  was  resumed  for  a  little. 
But  the  horses  were  becoming  quite  exhausted,  the  country  was'  getting 
exceedingly  difficult,  and  the  pro\'isions  were  very  short.  The  ration  was  but 
one  biscuit  and  a  slice  of  bacon  per  day.  The  Count  was  a  thin  wiry  man, 
and  constant  travelling  and  scanty  fare  did  not  seem  to  trouble  him  much; 
but  it  was  otherwise  with  the  rest  of  the  party.  The  travelling  got  worse 
and  worse;  steep  hills  and  gullies',  covered  with  almost  impenetrable  scrub, 
had  now  to  be  faced.  At  a  point  near  Boolarra,  the  horses,  in.struments  and 
a  large  collection  of  specimens  were  abandoned;  the  attempt  to  reach  Corner 
Inlet  had  to  be  reluctantly  given  up.  The  question  now  was,  how  to  save 
the  lives  of  the  party.     It  was  decided  to  make  for  Westernport. 

The  distance  from  Boolarra  to  Westernport  is  about  50  miles,  and  it 
took  22  days.  All  the  Count  says  of  this  remarkable  feat  he  puts  into  a  single 
.sentence: — "The  direct  course  which  necessity  obliged  us  to  pursue  led  us, 
during  22  days  of  almost  complete  starvation,  through  a  scrubby  and,  for  ex- 
hausted men,  a  trying  country,  which,  however,  for  the  valuable  timber  of 
bhie-gimi  and  blackbutt,  has  no  parallel  in  the  colony."'  Those  who  know 
what  a,  piece  of  Gippsland  virgin  scrub  is  like  will  easily  realise  that  no  more 
difficult  task  could  be  set  an  explorer  than  to  traverse  the  50  miles  from 
Boolarra  to  Westernport.  To  make  matters  much  worse,  the  Count  believed 
in  a  straight  course,  and  he  would  not  tolerate  the  least  deviation  from  it. 
He  laid  a  course  west  by  south  from  Boolarra  to  Korumburra,  thence  due 
west  to  Corinella.  and  he  and  his  [)arty  passed  over  the  South  (Tippsland 
hills  on  these  straight  lines.  Tlie  wonder  is  that  any  of  them  lived  to  tell 
the  tale.  On  some  days'  they  toiled  hard  to  cover  a  mile  or  so.  They  had  to 
force  their  way  up  and  down  steep  hills  clothed  thickly  with  large  timber 
and  undergrowth.  Thi3  Count  did  not  spare  himself;  he  was  often  in  front 
literally  throwing  himself  against  the  tangled  scrub,  and  forcing  a  path 
through.  Sometimes  they  actually  progressed  for  chains  on  top  of  the 
scrub  by  felling  some  of  the  tall  straight  saplings  in  the  direction  they  were 
going  and  scraml)ling  along  them.  Riley's  gun  and  Charley  Tarra's  bush 
lore  saved  them  from  starvation.  Native  bear  was  the  principal  fare:  often 
it  had  to  be  eaten  raw,  for  everything  was  too  wet  to  burn.  Probably,  but 
for  Charley,  the  whole  party  would  have  perished. 

But  the  Count's  straight  lines,  so  difficult  to  travel.  l)rought  them  at  last 
to  the  Port.  On  the  i2th  of  May.  the  torn  and  famished  men  reached  a 
settlement  on  Westernport  Bay.  about  the  place  now  called  Corinella.  The 
settlers,  who  probably  came  from  Tasmania,  had  occupied  the  dilapidated 
buildings  of  Governor  Darling's  abandoned  settlement.  They  readilv  siu*- 
coured  the  exhausted  explorers,  and  took  them  by  boat  to  Robert  Jamieson's 
station  at  the  head  of  the  Bay.  This  place  is  now  called  Tooradin.  TluMice. 
via   Cranbourne  and  Dandenong.  they  easily  reached  Melbourne. 


THE     EARLY     HISTORY     OP^     WESTERNPORT.  27 

On  the  journey  the  Count  had  noted  the  occurrence  of  jrokh  silver,  iron, 
and,  in  Gippshmd.  coal  on  the  Eiley  River  and  near  "Westernport.  He  bade 
good-bye  to  his  "fellow  monkey-eaters."  and  soon  after  left  for  Tasmania, 
where  he  did  further  ex{)lnration  work.  Maearthur  returned  to  Sydney: 
Riley  and  Charley  Tari-a  found  a  much  easier,  though  more  devious,  way 
back  to  Gippsland.  They  found  one  horse  alive,  and  recovered  the  valuable 
collection  of  specimens." 

About  the  same  time  a  party  of  settlers  from  Melbourne  chartered  a 
vessel,  the  "Singapore,"  and  discovered  and  named  Port  Albert,  and  the 
Albert  and  Tarra  rivers.  They  sent  the  vessel  back  to  Melbourne,  and  re- 
mained behind  to  ex]:)lore  and  occupy  the  country.  They  were  astonished 
to  find  ^Ic^NIillan's  tracks,  which  they  followed  to  the  La  Trobe.  They  found 
and  named  Lake  AVellington.  and  then  turned  their  faces  towards  Melliourne. 
starting  with  10  day>"  provisions,  and  with  packhorses.  which  they  had  to 
abandon  after  the  first  day.  Then  they  .shouldered  their  packs,  and  with 
great  difficulty  travelled  about  four  miles  a  day  for  14  days  (during  10  of 
which  it  rained  without  ceasing).  Forcing  their  way  through  the  j^crub 
on  the  loth  day  they  reached  lower  and  less  broken  country,  but  still  .scrubby. 
and  with  water  .sometimes  up  to  their  knees  Their  provisions  were  exhau.sted, 
and  they  were  forced  to  live  on  ''monkey."  pheasants  and  parrots.  At  length, 
on  the  18th  day.  they  i-eached  Westernport,  thoroughly  exhausted,  suffering 
severely  fi-om  the  cuts  olitained  while  forcing  their  way  through  the  scrub, 
and  with  their  clothes  and  boots  completely  torn  oft'  them.  They  found 
Surveyor  Smyth  surveying  the  coast,  and  ^xeve  conA-eyed  by  boat  to  Jamieson's 
station.  Subsequently  A.  Brodribb  (one  of  the  party)  and  others  discovered 
a  more  practicable  road  to  (ii])p.sland  through  the  forests  between  the 
Kooweerup  Swamp  and  the  head  waters  of  the  La  Trobe  River,  and  there 
eventually  a  road  was  made. 

In  1841  the  young  colony  was  overtaken  by  a  commercial  panic,  caused 
principally  through  the  flocks  of  .sheep  increasing  beyond  the  local  demand 
for  them  foi-  stocking  up  new  country,  and  as  a  con.sequence  their  value 
declined  to  the  value  of  the  fleece.  Consequently  the  boiling  down  industry 
Avas  established,  and  ])i'ime  sheep  were  boiled  down  for  tallow,  and  the  refuse 
used  as  manure  or  wasted.  This  .state  of  affairs  gave  the  young  settlement  a 
gi-eat  check,  from  which  it  had  bai-ely  recovered,  when  the  discovery  of  gold 
diverted  all  attention  in  an  cutir-ely  new  direction. 

During  these  and  the  succeeding  years  Westernjiort  seems  to  have  had 
a  quiet,  uneventful  existence,  cattle  grazing  being  the  jirincipal  indusitry,  and 
a  few  small  settlements  were  formed  round  its  shores. 

In  1873  an  attempt  was  made  to  develop  the  coal  .seams  at  Kilcunda,  and 
a  railway  line  was  made  to  (irilliths  Point,  where  a  jetty  was  made  for  the 
pnrpo.se  of  loading  coal  into  ves.sels,  but  the  ventui-e  was  not  a  success',  and 

was  soon  al)aiulon('(l. 

'J"hi.>  lii'ings  u.■^  lo  the  lime  when  ihe  story  of  the  i)ioneers  of  the  .scrul) 
country  really  starts;  the  rich  scrub  country  in  the  ranges  was  entered  via 
McDonald'.s'  Track,  and  from  the  (ji])p.sland  railway  line  on  the  north,  and 
from  Tjang  Lang  and  Grantville  on  the  west,  gi-adually  extending,  until  those 
in  the  advance  f)f  each  wave  of  settU'ment  met.  witji  surprise,  those  who  had 
come  in  from  an  entirelv  ditlerent  direction. 


Old   Pastoral   Runs. 

T.  J.  COVERDALE. 

The  map  here  j^iveii.  wliich  i^s  taken  from  the  orio-iual  plans,  shows  the 
pastoral  run??  into  which  the  scrub  country'  dealt  with  in  the  book  was' 
nominally  divided  before  it  was  taken  np  by  the  settlers  who  cleared  it.  It 
also  shows  some  of  the  old  runs  round  AN'esternport  and  on  the  south  coast. 
The  names  of  the  lessees  and  the  dates  of  the  leases  are  taken  fi'om  the 
"GoAernment  Gazettes'"  of  the  time,  which,  together  with  the  ])lans,  were  very 
kindly  placed  at  my  disposal  by  Mr.  J.  G.  Saxton.  of  the  Oritrinal  Plan  Room, 
Lands  Office,  Melbourne. 

The  scrub  country  referred  to  C(;nipriscd.  I'ou.uhly.  the  uorthcni  half  of 
the  AVild  Cattle  Kun:  the  greater  portion  (western  side)  of  the  Strathmore 
and  Mt.  Franklin  runs:  the  Kangaroo  run,  and  the  unnamed  tract  to  the 
south  of  it:  the  south-eastern  half  of  riie  Torbinurruck  run:  and  the  northern 
half  of  the  Kyanston  run. 

Looking  at  the  map.  one  would  think  that  all  this  country  had  at  that 
time  been  used  for  grazing,  but  such  could  not  have  been  the  case,  as  onl}' 
the  open  country  on  the  outer  fringe  of  the  group  of  runs  above  mentioned 
was  sufficiently  open  to  have  been  used  for  that  purpose.  It  will  be  noticed 
on  the  map  that  three  of  them — the  Strathmore,  the  Kangaroo,  and  the  Mt. 
Franklin  runs — are  traversed  by  McDonald's  Track:  and  McDonald,  who  was 
cutting  this  track  in  the  same  3'ear  a-  that  in  which  these  lains  were  taken 
up — 18(31 — states  in  his  field  notes  tluit  the  couutry  was  then  covered  with 
'"den-se  scrub  and  fallen  timber."  Kather  impossible  cattle  country  I  Probably 
these  runs  were  taken  up  only  on  j)aper  as  a  "s])ec..'"  at  a  time  when  it  was 
thought  that  AfcDonaltl  would  find  a  main  load  to  Sale  by  way  of  that 
comitiy.  as  two  of  them  were  taken  up  only  once  and  >oon   forfeited. 

The  largt'>l.  and'al^o  the  tirst.  to  be  taken  up  was  the  ^^'il(l  Cattle  Uun. 
so  called  from  the  |)resence  of  wild  cattle,  the  progeny  (d'  ^ome  that  had 
strayed  years  before  fi-om  the  iii'>>i  settlement  at  Corinelhi  (afterwards 
abandoned):  and  from  the  "'( ioNcnuiient  (ia/.ette"  of  Octobei-  11th.  1S4S.  I 
take  the  following  fi-om  among  the  leasing  notices: — "No.  SI). — Matthew 
Gibson.  Name.  \\'ild  (  attle  liun.  F^limated  niea.  •J.'itnOOO  acres.  Estimated 
carrying  caj)acity.  'i-lO  head.  l>otnid('<l  on  the  north  by  the  Strzelecki  Range: 
on  the  west  by  the  Powlett  oi-  second  ri\cr.  which  Ixtumls  Messrs.  '^riiompson's 
run:  on  the  east  by  the  Tarwin.  whicii  bounds  Mi-.  liourneV  run:  on  the  south 
by  the  sea.  X.P>. — This  lain  ha^  l)een  transfei'red  to  Mr.  Shei'idan.  in  whose 
name  the  lea-c  will  accordingly  lie  made  out."  I>ut.  note  the  carrying 
capacity- -a  bcnst  lo  400  ;icre>I  Much  of  the  same  laui  will  now  not  only 
carry,  lait  will  fatten,  a  bea,-t  to  three  acres.  r)Ut.  of  cour-e.  the  great  bulk'  of 
these  i'un>  were  loo  >ci-ubby  to  be  made  use  of  at   all. 

In  l.S()C)  this  run  wa^  di\ided  into  the  North  Powlett  and  the  South 
Powlett  runs,  and  held  succe-si\ fly  by  Richard  Fehan  and  others  till  about 
18SG.  I>y  that  lime  most  of  il  had  Ix'en  alienated,  oi'  was  in  process  of 
alienation,  fi-om  the  Ci'own.  and  at    |)resent — 1!)1S— -all  that   is  left  of  it  is  a 


30  OLD     PASTORAL     KUNiS. 

tract  of  poor  cotintry  along  the  south  coast,  leased  in  large  blocks  to  settlers 
in  the  hills  for  winter  grazing.  On  the  south-west  corner  of  this  old  rtm 
stands  the  town  of  Wontliaggi,  famous  for  its  coal  mines  and  its  strikes. 
The  Kangaroo  and  the  Mt.  Franklin  runs  were  each  taken  up  in  February, 
1801,  by  J.  Conolly  and  J.  Johnstone  respecti\ ely,  and  the  Strathmore  in 
Jul}',  18(51,  by  James  S.  Lavender. 

Of  the  coast  runs,  the  Torbinurruck.  the  Red  Blulf,  the  Upper  Plains, 
and  the  Westaway  were  taken  up  by  S.  ^lartin,  Moore  and  Martin,  Miciiael 
Pender,  and  James  Cuthbert  respectively  in  December.  1850.  The  two  former 
runs  were  transferred  to  Miekle  Bakewell  and  Lyall  in  July,  1851.  In  the 
early  sixties,  Fehan  and  Kidd  took  up  the  Kilcunda  run,  and  in  18(59  John 
McCarty  the  Kyanston  run. 

In  1S65  the  Webtaway  was  held  by  Mr.  James  Scott,  the  pioneer  of  the 
McDonald's  Track  couiitiy,  which  he  had  heard  of  while  living  at  AVestaway. 

Previous  to  the  inauguration  of  the  leasing  s^^tejn  in  1848.  most  of  the 
Westernport  country  was  occupied  in  roughly  dehiied  areas  under  what  were 
called  "'grazing  permits.*"  Messrs.  Massie  and  Anderson  were  among  the  first 
to  make  permanent  settlement  there,  the  family  of  the  latter  being  connected 
with  the  district  for  nearly  eighty  years. 


The   Scrub. 

MR.  T.  J.  COVERDALE. 

Before  attempting  to  describe  the  scrub  itself,  it  might  be  of  interest 
to  take  a  brief  ghmce  at  the  physical  geography  of  the  country  on  which  it 
grew,  together  with  its  geological  formation,  rainfall,  aiitl  climate. 

The  scrub  country  then — sometimes  called  the  Great  Forest  of  5)outh 
Gippsland — started  within  a  few  miles  of  the  east  coast  of  Westernport,  and 
extended  eastward  for  some  sixty  or  se^'enty  miles,  with  a  varying  width  of 
thirty  to  forty  miles;  covering  an  area  of  roughly  two  thousand  square  miles 
of  rang}'  fertile  country,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  small  patches  of  sandy 
mess'mate  country  in  ihe  south. 

To  the  southward  it  Avas  boimded  by  the  bayonet  grass  plains  and  open 
timber  country  that  runs  along  the  south  coast  for  many  miles  east  of 
Griffith's  Point,  and  which  extends  inland  some  ten  or  hfteen  miles.  To  the 
north  it  was  bounded  generally  by  open  messmate  country.  To  the  eastward 
al;50  was  open  forest  country,  mostly  blue  gum,  white  gum,  or  messmate. 

The  ranges  rise  somewhat  abruptly  in  places  from  the  southern  phiins, 
but  more  gradually  from  the  west.  To  the  north  they  fall  away  into  unckdat- 
ing  country.  The  ^IcDonald's  Track  Kangv  is  tlie  backljone  of  the  country, 
and  runs  through  it  on  an  easterly  bearing,  trending  northerly  as  it  gets 
further  to  the  east.  This'  range  rises  gradually  as  it  makes  eastward,  attaining 
an  altitude  in  some  places  of  about  2000  feel.  The  whole  country,  indeed, 
rises  towards  the  east,  and  Ijecomes  much  more  rangy  and  broken;  ^ome  of 
the  ridges  run  into  a  height  of  three  or  four  h.undred  feet  aboxc  the  creeks 
and  gullies  tliat  divide  them. 

From  the  main  range  of  McDonald's  Track,  sjiurs  are  thrown  oil.  which 
in  tui'ii  thiow  oil'  other  spurs,  forming  the  watersheds  of  the  nuinerou.^  creeks 
and  gullies  with  which  the  country  is'  intersected.  Streams  running  east  or 
west  have  the  steep  Ijank  on  the  north;  and  streams  i-unning  north  or  south 
have  the  steep  bank  on  the  west,  so  geologists  teil  us.  .Vnd.  generally  >i)eak- 
ing,  you  will  hnd  a  fiat  on  one  side  of  streams  of  any  magnitude,  and  a  range 
on  the  other.  But  in  some  of  this  country  nature  has  left  out  the  Hal  and 
placed  steej)  banks  on  both  sides,  rising  almost  from  the  water's  edii.i'.  To 
the  westward,  however,  the  country  is  much  less  steej),  being  in  sonic  parts 
merely  undulating. 

The  country  is  drained  to  the  westward  l»y  the  Bass  and  the  Lang  l>;ing 
rivers  falling  iiiU)  Westej-npoi-l ;  to  the  southward  by  numerous  tril)Ularies  of 
the  Tarwin  and  the  Powlett  ri\ers;  while  the  trii)iitaries  of  the  Latrobe.  the 
Moi'well,  and  the  Moe  I'ivers  drain  its  noitliein  slopes. 

The  geological  formation  i>  carboniferous  sandstone  or  niiid  rock.  This 
rock,  on  exposure  to  the  atmospheiv,  soon  luouldeis  down  to  a  soft  eartn.  On 
the  rock  lies  a  light  clay  two  oj-  three  feet  in  thickness,  on  which  lies  a  grev 
friable  soil,  six  inches  to  a  foot  in  depth,  occasionally  nioic  in  places  the 
soil  will  go  down  on  to  the  i-ock.  wlu're  the  latter  will  be  found  in  a  decaved, 
broken-np  condition  fo'-  a  loot  or  >o  in  depth.  On  the  Mats  the  soil  i>  niuch 
lighter  than  on  the  hill-  an<l  of  a  c|o>ei-  nature.  On  the  hills  it  is  dai'ker 
antj   more   friable.     Through   want   (d'  drain.aae  the  Mats  arow    a   uood   deal   of 


32 


THE     SCRUB. 


IIAZKL    SCIMi:.     F1;k.\S     ami     i;I(;     'il.Mr.Kij 
Tlie   Ferns   in    the   P'dnvurouni!   .1  ic    lot'r.    in    Heiulii 


THE     SCRUB.  .3.-} 

sedge-grass  and  rushes,  but  the  pasture  is  always  green  on  them  in  the  Sum- 
mer. On  some  of  the  larger  creeks  and  risers,  however,  the  flats  are  almost 
black  and  the  soil  of  a  stronger  nature. 

Immense  worms,  up  to  six  feet  in  length,  tunnel  the  soil  of  the  liat.> 
and  in  a  lesser  degree  of  the  hills  also;  while  yabbies  (land  crabs)  cover  the 
ground  in  wet  places  with  moinids  six  inches  to  a  foot  in  height,  through 
which  their  shafts  run  down  to  their  reservoirs  two  or  three  feet  below. 
These  mounds  disappear  to  a  great  extent  ^^hen  the  land  becomes  grassed 
and  stocked. 

All  through  the  country  occasional  dykes  of  doleritc  rock  occur,  where 
the  soil  is  always  richer.  Near  Leongatha  there  is  a  volcanic  formation  with, 
some  very  useful  basaltic  stone  for  road-making.  All  through  the  scrub 
country  paiches  of  I'eddish  brown  soil  occur  superimposed  on  the  ordinary 
sedimentary  rock  of  a  like  reddish  colour.  Although  this  is  not  held  to  be 
so  good  for  grass  as  the  grey  soil,  especially  in  the  Sunnner,  it  is  con^dered 
better  land  for  cultivation. 

A  study  of  the  rainfall  in  relation  to  the  clearing  of  the  scrub  is  interest- 
ing, and  shows  a  decline  in  the  former,  which,  if  not  owing  to  the  clearing  of 
the  country,  was  certainly  co-incident  there>vith.  At  the  time  of  making  this 
analysis  the  longest  complete  official  records  for  the  district — and  indeed 
for  the  whole  of  South  Gippsland.  with  the  exception  of  Port  Alliert — are 
those  of  Outtrim  with  30  years,  1883  to  1912  inclusive;  Poowong  with  29 
years.  1886  to  1914  inclusive:  and  Kardella  with  28  years.  1887  to  1914  also 
inclusive.  Their  average  annual  rainfall  records  for  those  periods  are  re- 
spectively: Outtrim.  42.75in. :  Poowong.  15.r)7in. :  and  Kardelhi.  46.40in. 
Their  elevations  above  sea  level  at  recording  stations  are  approximately 
Outtrim  (earlier  records),  800ft.:  Poowong,  630ft.:  and  Kardella.  520ft 
The  Outtrim  records,  however,  cannot  be  used  for  comparative  purposes,  as 
the  gauge  A^as  removed  fi'om  the  location  where  the  earlier  records  wer^ 
taken  to  one  some  distance  aAvay  and  of  much  lower  elevation :  the  later 
records  showing  an  extreme  decline  from  those  of  the  earlier  years.  The 
Poowong  and  Kardella  recoi-ds.  however,  ha\e  no  such  disturbing  influences, 
and  the>e  alone  ai'e  used  in  the  following  analysis  showing  the  decline  in  the 
rainfall  since  Ihc  clearing  of  the  scrub. 

As  the  yeai-  KM 4  w:is  exceptiona]l\'  dry.  being  the  year  of  the  great 
drought  elsewiiere.  niid  when  onl\  30.77  and  30.()3in.  fell  at  Kardella  and 
Poowong  resided i\ely — about  Ki.OOin.  below  their  a\erage  annual  rainfall — 
it  has  been  left  out  m  this  analysis,  .is  its  inclusion  might  be  considered  as 
unduly  (»r  inifiiirly  ;illecling  the  result  in  ;i  comparison  showing  the  decline 
of  the  lain  fall  -incc  (lie  clearing  of  tlu'  scrub.  Fhe  mode  of  analysis  adopted 
is'  to  take  (lie  axcrage  annual  i-ainfall  for  (lie  fiis(  live  years  of  the  record  a1 
each  place  and  e(>iiii)are  i(  wi(li  (lie  l,i-(  li\e  years:  also  in  the  same  way  to 
com])are  the  first  (en  ye:ir-  \\i(!i  (lie  l;i-(  (en  years.  The  Poowong  record  dealt 
with  is  from  l^^^C  (o  r.)i;;.  ;iii.|  (Inil  of  Kai'delln  from  ls,s7  (o  1913,  both 
inclnsixc.  No  compnii-en  is  indMided  l)(^(\\cen  (he  (wo  places,  which  are 
about  12  mile-  ;i|Kirl:  -im|)ly  (he  i-eeords  of  lioih  nrc  n^^cd  foi-  (he  same  ])ur- 
p(»s'e.  .iiid   (lie   ic-'ill    i-  ;is   follows: — 


I'oowong. 

Kardella. 

Fii'st  5  year--  .  .    .  . 
Last  5  years    .  .    .  . 
Fii-st  lb  vears 

53.81  inch&s 
.  .     44.24 
.  .     49.41 
.  .     44.63        „ 

r'irst  5  years  .  . 
Last   .")  years    .  . 

I''irs(   10  \-ears  .  . 

.  .    .  .      .V2.99 

.  .    .        43.73 

49.86 

inches 

Last  10  yl>:\r^  ,  .    .  . 

Last  10  vears     .  . 

....     44.80 

•1 

:u 


THE     SCRUB. 


It  will  thus  be  seen  thstt  there  is  a  big  difference  between  the  annual  rainfall 
of  the  first  five  years  and  that  of  the  last  five,  and  a  lesser  difference  between 
that  of  the  first  and  the  last  ten  years.  This  is  no  doubt  owing  to  the  fact 
that  there  was  a  much  larger  proportion  relatively  of  uncleared  country  in 
the  first  five  years  compared  with  the  last  five  than  in  the  first  ten  3'ears 
compared  with  the  last  ten.  Tliis  seems  to  indicate  that  the  decline  in  the 
rainfall  followed  the  clearing  of  the  scrub;  but  curiously  the  decline  has  been 
greater  both  absolutely  and  relatively  in  the  Winter  months  than  in  those  of 
the  Summer.  This  was  probably  owing  to  the  fact  that  the  lighter  and  less 
frequent  rains  of  the  Summer  left  a  smaller  surplus  of  moisture  to  be  con- 
served by  the  scrub  for  later  evaporation;  so  the  removal  of  the  scrub  would 
make  less  difference  to  the  Suunner  tlian  to  the  Winter  fall. 

The  follov.ing  monthly  averages  are  given  to  show  the  distribution  of  the 
rainfall  over  the  j^ear,  both  in  the  scrub  period  and  in  the  cleared  period,  the 
latter  in  this  case  including  the  latest  available  records  at  the  time  of  making 
this  analvsis.  viz..  to  1914  inclusive,  and  are  as  follow: — 


Poowong,  lb.S(j  to  1914. 
First  10  years.       Last  10  years. 


Jan.    . 

'2.33  inches 

1.40 

inches 

Feb.     . 

.     1.T9 

1.24 

57 

Mar.     . 

.     2.69        ., 

3.22 

5? 

April  . 

.      3.54 

3.41 

■       55 

May     . 

.      4.32 

4.29 

5; 

June    . 

.      5.99        „ 

4.31 

55 

July     . 

.      5.2J 

4.T2 

Aug.    . 

.      4.97 

4.10 

., 

Sept.    . 

.     4.93 

4.63 

55 

Oct.     . 

.      5.29 

3.69 

l\o\-.     . 

.     3.83 

3.16 

,, 

Dee.     . 

.     4.45 

3.75 

,, 

Kardella.  l!s87  to  1914. 

First  10  year.s.    Last  10  years. 

2.34  inches  1.43  inches 

1.65  .,  1.66  „ 

2.70  .:  3.34  „ 

3.97  ..  3.66  „ 

4.31  ..  4.02  „ 

6.10  ..  4.31  „ 

5.89  ..  4.65  „ 

5.20  ..  4.40  „ 

5.22  ..  4.85  „ 

4.67  ..  3.60  ., 

3.73  ..  3.36  „ 

4.03  ..  3.70  „ 

From  this  it  will  Ix'  seen  there  is  a  good  Summer  rainfall,  and  although  the 
Winter  fall  niov  appear  excessive,  the  formation  of  the  counti-y  prevents  it 
becoming  injurious  to  the  pastures.  Tn  all  the  monthly  records  covering  32 
3'ears.  if  Ave  include  Outtrim,  there  was  only  one  month,  and  at  only  one  of 
the  stations,  where  no  rain  was  recorded.  That  was  in  February,  1898,  the 
month  and  year  of  the  (Ireat  Fire,  when  the  Poowong  gauge  scored  a  "duck." 
Poowong  also  holds  the  record  for  the  heaviest  fall  of  rain  in  one  month  with 
ll.Olin.  ni  June,  1889. 

While  the  decline  in  the  raijifall  is  i-emarkable.  and  Mas  coincident  with 
the  clearing  of  the  country,  we  still  have  a  heavy  fall,  evidently  attributable  to 
other  inliuences  than  that  of  the  forest.  These  are  probably  air  currents,  the 
elevation  of  the  country,  and  its  hydrographieal  position.  AVith  the  ocean  a 
few  miles'  to  the  southwards,  and  Port  Phillip  and  Westerni)ort  to  the  west- 
ward, and  no  high  land  intervening,  our  elevated  country  is  the  first  to  inter- 
cept the  rnoisture-laden  breezes  from  these  waters,  and  cause  precipitation. 
The  forest  Ijeing  encouraged  to  grow  by  the  generous  rainfall  merely  increased 
it  by  adding  some  two  hundred  feet  or  more  to  the  height  of  the  moisture- 
arresting  ranges;  while  the  mass  of  scrub  and  shaded  soil  beneath  acted  as 
reservoirs  for  the  moisture,  which  being  given  off  gradually  under  the  in- 
fluence of  evaporation,  kept  the  atmos'j^here  in  a  condition  favourable  to 
precii)itatioii.    That  this  condition  existed  and  was  caused  l>y  the  ]n-esence  of 


THE     SCRUB.  35 

the  :-criib  is  iutliccited  Ij}'  the  hirge  aniomit  of  misty  Aveather  and  drizzling  rain 
that  prevailed  before  the  coinitrj'  was  cleared,  but  which  do  not  occur  now  to 
nearh'  the  same  extent.  As  showing  the  humidity  of  the  atmosphere  in  the 
scrub,  leather  articles,  if  not  in  constant  use,  would  quicklj  become  green 
mouldy,  and  matches  soon  became  useless  if  not  kept  near  the  fire;  while 
clothing  taken  from  boxes  would  steam  visibly  when  placed  before  a  fire. 

The  climate  is  not  very  cold  in  the  Winter,  though  sharp  frosts  often 
occKi.  In  Summer  the  temperature  seldom  reaches  100  degrees  in  the  shade. 
At  iii'^'-ivals  of  3'ears  light  falls  of  snow  occur,  and  in  1895  a  very  heavy  fall 
was  experienced.  Avhen  upwards  of  li^  inches  of  snow  fell.  Xothing  like  it  has 
been  known  since,  and  it  must  have  been  very  exceptional,  as,  lodging  in  the 
foliage  of  the  .-^erul).  it  smashed  a  lot  of  it  down  or  tore  it  up  by  the  roots,  a 
circumstance  of  which  there  w^as  no  evidence  in  the  scrub  of  its  having 
occurred  for  a  very  long  time  previously. 

^Vith  this  ^liorr  account  of  its  environment.  I  will  endeavour  to  give  the 
reader  some  idea  of  wliat  the  scrul)  and  the  big  timber  gi'owing  in  it  were  like. 
Briefly,  the  scrub  itself  was.  generally  speaking,  a  dense  growth  of  many 
kinds  of  trees — hazel,  musk,  blackwood,  wattle,  gum,  saplings,  etc.,  etc. — 
growing  so  thickly  togetlier  as  to  present  the  appearance  of  a  forest  of  bare 
poles,  with  foliage  at  the  top  and  a  ruck  of  ruidergrowth  and  rubbish  in  the 
bottom:  while  all  through  it  u,ve^\  a  forest  of  very  large  eucalv])lus  trees. 
But  in  some  places  it  would  l)e  neaily  all  blue  gum  or  blackbutt  saplings  with 
little  or  no  big  timber:  in  others  nearly  all  hazel  with  big  blue  gum  timber;  or 
again  it  would  be  principally  musk  with  blackbutt  and  blue  gum  timber. 
Through  most  of  the  country  the  scrub  was  a  mixture  of  all  kinds,  with  hazel 
predominating.  Taking  the  big  timber  first,  it  consisted  of  blue  gum  {E. 
globidus).  White  guw  (E.  rubida).  Blackbutt  (E.  regnans).  Messmate  (E. 
obli(jua).  Swamp  ginn  (  E.  Cruniiii  var.  acei'\"ula). 

The  l)ln('  trmn.  whose  comnii'i'cial  \alii('  is  well  l»:n()\vn.  grew  i)rin('ipally 
oil  ili(-  liill--.  I  nt  iiioi'i'  or  less  all  (>\cm-  .in  tlie  big  timber  c  M'ntrv.  Tbe  white 
gum.  which  wa>  often  piped  and  eaten  with  whit<'  ants,  grew  mostly  on  the 
flats  and  slopes,  but  often  on  the  hill^  as  well.  The  blue  gum  and  white  gum 
atlainel  a   height   of  I.')*)  \\y,  to  -jiffO  fVel.  with  a  diameter  of  three  to  six  feet. 

The  blackbutts  were  usually  found  on  the  flats  and  ci'eeks  in  the  West, 
and  were  not  vei-y  large  there:  but  in  the  East  they  giew  all  oxei-  the  country, 
and  in  i)laces  were  vei'v  thick  on  the  ground.  They  >(»inetinies  attained  a 
height  of  nearly  ^00  feet,  with  a  dia  meter  of  8  to  10  feet:  exceptional  specimens 
would  measure  a  chain  round  at  the  butt.  They  often  threw  out  enormous 
buttresses,  running  into  the  tree  at  twenty  feet  uj)  the  trunk:  and  their  red- 
brown  i)utts  shading  into  a  smooth  green  tiaink  running  up  pei-haps  laO  feet 
without  a  branch,  formed  a  distinctive  feature  in  nnich  of  the  big  >scrub 
countiy.  They  Avere  lai-gely  u-^ed  for  palings.  I'ails  and  |)ickets.  also  for  sawn 
stuff':  l)Ut  the  wood  was  no  good  in  the  ground.  The  swamp  gum  also  grcAV 
on  the  flats,  and  was  a  worthless  timber.  In  th(>  heail  of  the  scrub  there  was 
very  little  messmate — sometimes  not  a  tree  to  100  .icres — but  towards  the 
fringe  there  was  a  good  deal.  It  was  \ery  good  for  ])osts  and  i-ails,  lasting 
well  in  the  ground,  but  not  much  good  for  milling  ))urposes.  The  white  gum 
is  a  useful  timber  for  sawing  or  splittiii'.',.  but  useless  in  (be  grcaiml. 

In  some  ])laces  (here  were  also  \eiy  line  old  blackwoods,  (wo  or  three  feet 
in  diameter.  These  were  usually  found  in  gullies  oi-  in  other  ])laces  that 
had  ])een  misse.I  Itv  I'lack  'I'hin-sdav's  fire,  but  (hrouLdi  much  of  (he  sciaib  the 


36 


THE     SCRUB. 


r.LAXKET    LEAF.    HAZEL    AND    MUSK, 


big  blufkwoocLs  were  all  dead  and  fallen  down,  and  the  species'represented  only 
by  tall  thin  sapling's.  In  the  early  days  a  certain  amount  of  matured  black- 
wood  \\a<  ex])orted.  but  thore  was  never  a  large  amount  available;  some  of 
it  called  "fiddleback'*  blackvvood  was  beautifully  marked,  the  grain  being 
wavy  in  apj^earance  with  longitudinal  ripples  of  alternately  dark  and  light 
shades,  and  of  great  commercial  value. 

A  casual  glance  at  our  big  timber  would  have  given  the  impression  that 
it  was  very  valuable,  and  there  were  really  some  very  fine  belts  of  timber 
through  it;  but  the  greater  part  of  it  was  entirely  useless  for  milling  purposes. 
This  Avas'  the  verdict  of  tAvo  experts — the  late  Mr.  Quiggin,  sawmiller,  and  his 
viewer,  with  whom  1  Avent  through  a  great  deal  of  the  forest  in  the  early  days 
in  search  of  milling  timber.  They  said  the  timber  was  nearl}?^  all  too  old 
and  too  much  eaten  by  white  ants:  though  further  towards  Westernport  he 
found  enough  to  keep  a  mill  going  for  a  few  years. 

Xone  of  the  big  timber  had  any  taproot,  but  a  great  spread  of  laterals 
below  the  surface,  and  when  a  tree  uprooted  it  tore  up  a  mass  of  earth  like 
the  side  of  a  house.  The  blackA\oods  and  lightwoods,  however,  had  very  pro- 
nounced taproots.  The  (juantity  of  big  trees  to  an  acre  varied  from  prac- 
tically none  in  the  sapling  country  to  a  hundred  or  more  in  some  of  the  musk 
and  the  hazel  country  to  the  eastAvard.  But  a  large  proportion  of  the  country 
Avould  average  from  ten  to  tAveiity  tree,s  to  an  acre.  Strange  to  say,  in  the 
bio;  timber  country  there  Avas  no  eucalyptus  groAvth  between  the  very  old  trees 
and  comparatively  young  saplings. 

Coming  iiOAv  to  the  sci'ub  itself,  that  tremendous  jungle  fortA^  to  sixty 
feet  in  height  that  filled  in  the  spaces  betAveen  the  great  trees,  a  Avonderful 
variety  of  flora  Avas  to  be  found  in  it:  and  often  all  the  species  many  times 
repeated  could  be  found  on  a  square  chain 

As  it  Avili  no  doubt  be  interesting  to  know  in  years  to  come.  Avhen  it  has 
all  vanished.  Avhat  Avere  the  diiferent  kinds  of  timber  nnd  ]ilaiits  the  scrub  was 


THE     SCRUB. 


•\VrriT    SWORD-CRASS    BOTTOM. 


composed  of.  I  have  compiled  a  list  of  the  ])rincipal  species,  for  the  botanical 
names  of  which  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Baker,  classifier  at  the  Botanical 
Gardens.  Melbourne,  and  which  are  as  follow: — 

Hazel Pomaderris  apetalti 

Musk Olearia  argophylla 

Lightwood Acacia  iniplexa 

BlackAvood Acacia  melaiioxylon 

Dogwood     Cassinia  aculeata 

Silver  \A'attle Acacia  dealbata 

«Juiii  Sn])lii.Li.-  of  all   KiU"ilv|)ti    (i»reviously   nientioiicd) . 

Blanketwood Bo<lfordia  salicina 

Sassafras     Atherospernia  niKsciiatinii 

Mountain  Ash Panax  sambucifolius 

Orangewood  or  Victorian 

Laurel Pittosponiin    nii(hilatuui 

Lemonwood •■  „  varicpituni 

BoncAvood •■  bicolor 

Supplejack  (puri)k'-and- 
white       bell     -     shajX'd 

flower) 'l\'C<)iii;i    .\u,-(i:ili< 

Sup])lejack    (White    star- 
shaped  flower  and  fluff)  neiiiatis  glycinoidcs 
Supph>jack    (white-tinted 

Star-shaped   flower)    ..  ricinatis  arisiata 

(Mover  shrub Hoodia  lotifolia 

Tea-tree Melaleuca  oricifolia 

Chi-istmas  Tree Prostanthera  lasianthos 

Kangaroo  Apple SDhinuni  aviculare 

Woolly  Victorian  Hemp 
(sometimes  called  Cur- 
rant-bush)      Pl;mianthus  pulchollus  var.  tomentoi=iis 


;^8  THE     SCRUB. 

Australian   IMulberrv      . .  Hedycarya  aiiti,ustifolia 

Xative  Holly Louiatia  Fraserii 

Prickly  Currant  bnsli     . .  Coprosrna  Billardieri 

AVild  Hop Goodenia  ovata 

Prickly  Mimosa Acacia  verticillata 

Sworc\2:rass Lepidosperma  elatiiiiS 

Wireg'rass Tetarrheiia  jimcea 

King  fern Alsophiln  Australia 

Creek  fern Dicksonia  Antarctica 

Of  the  smaller  ferns  there  were  the  bracken,  barefoot,  cat-head,  coral,  maiden- 
hair, and  staghorn.  with  innumerable  varieties  of  other  ferns,  lichens  and 
mosses.  Although  the  bracken  became  such  a  nuisance  on  the  clearings,  it  was 
never  much  in  evidence  in  the  scrub,  the  latter  being  too  dense  for  it  to  thrive 
in.  There  was  also  a  species  of  convolvulus,  known  as  wild  ivy,  which, 
though  seldom  seen  in  the  scrub,  came  up  in  thick  patches  on  the  burn,  dying 
out  when  the  grass  came. 

Of  the  different  scrub  timbers  above  mentioned  the  hazel  was  the  most 
largeh"  represented.  It  grew  to  a  height  of  twenty  to  thirty  feet,  with  a 
straight  brown  stem,  bare  to  within  a  few  feet  of  the  top,  when  it  developed 
a  rather  bushy  head.  The  leaves  were  like  those  of  the  English  Hazel,  with 
clusters  of  small  brown  sweet  smelling  flowers.  The  diameter  of  the  stem 
might  be  from  one  to  six  inches,  occasionally  reaching  nine.  The  wood  was 
tough  and  good  to  burn. 

The  blfickNvoods  and  lightwoods,  altliough  lieau.tiful  umbrageous'  trees 
naturally,  were  here  mere  saplings  fifty  feet  or  more  in  heigh.t,  with  no  more 
top  on  them  very  often  than  you  could  carry  under  your  arm.  Their  small 
sweet  scented  yelloAv  blossoms  I'esemble  the  wattle,  to  which  family  they 
belong.  The  wood  of  the  ijlackwood  is  dark,  heavy  and  very  hard,  with  a 
thin  sapwood.  That  of  the  lightwood  is  lighter  in  colour  and  in  weight :  also 
the  foliage  is  lighter  in  colour,  and  the  sapwood  thicker  than  that  of  the 
blackwood.  Tlie  diametei-  of  each  Avas  from  two  to  twelve  inches.  Only 
silver  wattles  grew  in  the  scrub,  and  the  circumstances  of  their  siu'roundings 
impelled  them  also  to  shoot  upwards,  in  bare  unpicturesque  poles,  to  secure 
"a  place  in  the  sun."  On  the  flats,  hoAvever,  and  by  the  creeks  where  they 
mostly  grew  and  had  more  room,  they  sometimes  developed  quite  a  respectable 
head.*^  Their  sAveet  smelling  blossom  made  the  scrub  fragi\ant  in  the  early 
Spring.  There  Avere  patches.  howcA-er,  in  the  scnib  that  had  evidently 
escaped  fire  for  many  years,  where  there  Avere  very  large  hlackwoad.  Avattle, 
and  musk  trees,  also  hazels. 

The  sassafras  was  a  Aery  handsome  tree,  resembling  the  blackwood  at 
a  distance.  Ijut  never  groAving  so  large.  This  pretty  tree  declined  to  be  forced 
into  the  shape  of  an  unpicturesque  sapling  by  self-assertiAe  neighboiu's.  and 
was  usually  foiuid  in  the  more  open  scrub  where  it  could  show  itself  to 
adA^antage.  Bushmen  used  to  flaA^our  their  tea  with  its  bark,  and  smoke  the 
dry  leaves  Avith  their  toljacco.  It  Avas  not  plentiful  in  the  scrub,  and  A^ery 
little  of  it  greAv  Avesi:  of  AVhitelaAv's  Track. 

The  musk  was  uniA-ersal.  In  its  faA'ourite  habitat  it  w^as  of  branching 
habit  of  groA^th.  reaching  a  height  of  tAventy  feet  Avith  a  stem  twelve  inches 
in  diameter,  groAving  out  of  a  large  knob  the  size  of  a  ten  gallon  ])ot  A-ery 
often.  In  thick  hazel  country  the  main  stem  Avas  generally  dead.  Avith  a  lot 
of  crooked   shoots  groAving  out   of  the  knob.     Its  light  green  pointed  OA'al 


THE     SCRUB.  39 

shaped  leaf  ai)(>ut  three  inches  long,  with  its  tiat  chisters  of  greyish    white 
floM^ers.  gave  out  its  distinctive  perfinne  xerj  strongly  on  a  wet  day. 

The  pittosporums  resembled  certain  varieties  growing  in  our  i)arks  and 
gardens.  The  large  leafed  one  (inidnlatiim),  commonly  known  to  bnshmen 
as  orangewood.  often  o'rew  into  a  ^■ery  ornamental  tree,  about  twenty  feet 
high,  with  a  stem  of  very  tough  wood.  l»iit  soft  to  cut  when  green,  six  to  twelve 
inches  in  diameter. 

The  blanketwood  was  i  crooked  ngly  stick  al)Out  three  or  four  inches  in 
diameter.  l)rittle  in  character,  with  no  gi'ain.  and  remarkaV)ly  heavy.  It  threw 
out  short  Inanches.  very  little  more  than  twigs,  on  whicli  grew  in  tufts  its 
peculiar  leaves  about  eight  inches  long  and  two  broad,  smooth  and  dark  green 
above,  and  soft  and  v.  hite  and  woolly  underneath,  hence  the  name.  In  gardens 
it  often  grew  to  a  very  pretty  shrub. 

The  dogwood  was  another  unsightly  stick  that  sprawled  aliout  aimlessly 
to  a  height  of  ten  or  twelve  feet,  with  very  small  pale  green  leaves  and  a 
small  pinkis'h  coloured  flowei-.  Though  not  much  in  evidence  in  the  virgin 
scrub,  it  came  up  sometimes  after  a  burn  almost  like  a  croj)  of  wheat.  Falling 
on  the  bare  necks  of  the  men  who  were  ctitting  it,  the  leaves  often  caused  a 
painful  itch. 

The  mountain  ash  was  little  more  than  a  shi'ub.  and  attained  a  height  of 
ten  or  fifteen  feet.  It  had  large  dark  green  leaves  deeply  scalloped,  and  the 
bark  was  of  a  yellowish  green  colour:  it  looked  very  ])retty  in  the  open  sci'ub. 
where  it  had  room  to  develop.  It  is  difficult  to  know  how  it  came  to  be  called 
"mountain  ash":  it  is  not  a  eucalyptus,  and  therefore  no  relation  to  the  useful 
gum  tree  of  that  name,  of  which  110710  grew  in  this  forest. 

The  black  hazei.  \ariously  called  mintwood.  pencilwood.  and  Christmas 
tree,  when  it  came  up  as  second  growth,  grew  to  a  height  of  fifteen  to  twenty 
feet  in  the  scrub,  with  a  rough  dark  stem,  and  pointed  dark  green  lea\es  on 
a  few  scraggy  branches  near  (he  top.  I(  l);ul  a  small  white  fiowci'.  and  (d'tcn 
came  up  very  thickly  after  a  fire. 

The  clover  shrub  was'  a  small  insignificant  shrub  with  a  cloxei-  sha])ed 
leaf,  and  grew  eight  oi-  ten  feet  high.  It  favoured  llu'  open  messmate 
country  most. 

(iuin  s;ipliiiji,>  arew  iiioi'e  or  le.<s  all  oyov  the  cdniilrv.  and  tlie  reel  brown 
stems  of  the  blackbiitts  made  the  onl\-  note  of  colour  in  Ihc  uvnci-ally  sombre 
tones  of  the  serul>  in   which  thev  grew. 

Prickly  mimosa  and  tea-tree  "vei-e  also  found  on  tlic  llaK  along  (he  big 
creeks,  but  not  to  a!iy  extent  in  (he  big  scrul)  cf)un(ry. 

Ti'ee  ferns  grew  eveiTwIiere.  and  in  gr<'a(  profusion  in  I  lie  guHie-  ;ind 
along  the  creeks  and  I'ivei's.  fi'e(|uenlly  attaining  a  height  n\'  twenty  to  forty 
feet,  with  a- magnificent  spread  of  fronds.  In  some  of  the  gullies  they  grew 
in  thick  groves  Avith  little  else  besides,  and  it  was  a  \ery  pi-(>tty  sight  to  look 
down  on  one  of  these  from  an  el(Mation.  It  was  like  looking  down  on  a  gncen 
sea,  out  of  Avhich  rose  a  few  shapely  blackwoods  oi-  wattles,  with  room  here  to 
spread:  while  a  dark  leaved  piftosporuin  contrasted  w(>li  with  the  palei-  green 
of  the  fern  fronds.  And  shooting  up  above  everything  else,  foi-  foi-ty  or  fifty 
feet  without  a  ln-anch.  the  pillardike  lrunl<>  of  the  great  gums  ^upjiorted  their 
dark  mass  of  foliage  like  a  canopy  oxer  all. 


40  THE     SCRUB. 

The  supplejack,  tlioiigh  found  all  through  the  scrub,  flourished  best  in 
hazel  couDtry  on  the  ridges.  It  attached  itself  to  the  young  s'crub  in  early 
life  and  by  it  and  with  it  rose  iri  the  world.  Sometimes  it  Avould  twist  itself 
round  a  branch  of  its  host  so  tightly  as  to  cause  it  to  adopt  a  spiral  form  of 
growth.  (These  distortions  were  much  valued  by  bush  "Johnnies"  for  walk- 
ing sticks — the  more  spirals  the  higher  the  value.)  The  scrub  foliage  being 
all  intermingled  at  the  top.  "jack"  Avandered  about  through  it  at  will,  binding 
half  an  acre  of  it  together  sometimes,  and  covering  the  tops  in  the  spring 
time  with  patches  of  sweet  smelling  flowers  or  tufts  of  white  fluif :  a  long 
calile-like  stem  dangling  from  the  top  and  lying  in  coils  on  the  ground.  The 
unfaithful  scrubcutter  coming  on  one  of  these  "combines,"  and  thinking  more 
of  pay  clay  and  the  nearest  pub.  than  of  his  obligations  as  defined  by  his 
agreement,  will  not  wait  to  "completely  sever  each  piece  of  scrub  from  its 
res]jective  stump,"  but  going  through  it  will  nick  a  few  of  the  biggest  and  then 
send  a  blackwood  or  gum  sapling  into  the  bunch,  trusting  to  "jack"  to  drag 
the  lot  doAvn.  If  most  of  it,  being  uncut,  remains  green  and  blocks  the  fire— 
Avell,  he  won't  be  there  to  hear  about  it. 

The  swordgrass  constituted  a  large  proportion  of  the  undergrowth 
throughout  the  whole  of  the  Gippsland  scrub,  and  often  came  up  afterwards 
on  the  clearings,  costing  a  lot  to  grub  it  out.  It  grew  from  three  to  eight 
feet  in  height,  with  dark  green  leaves  about  an  incii  broad,  having  cutting 
edges.  It  had  a  flag-like  habit  of  growth,  and  its  long  leaves  rose  from  the 
ground  in  bunches,  a  long  flat  stem  in  the  centre  carrying  a  brown  tuft  of 
seeds.  A  cut  from  one  of  the  leaves  was  s'evere.  but  on  pulling  up  a  leaf  a 
brown  sticky  substance  was  found  adhering  to  it  at  the  bottom,  which  if 
rubbed  into  the  wound  soon  healed  it. 

The  wiregi-ass  was  a  peculiar  growth,  having  a  hard  wiry  stem  no  thicker 
than  a  piece  of  packing  twine,  with  lanceolated  leaves  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
in  A^idth  and  six  inches  long  gi-owing  out  of  the  joints  along  the  stem;  the 
latter  was  very  rough,  and  made  a  nastv  bleeding  scratch  if  drawn  roughly 
across  the  skin.  It  grcAv  manv  yards  in  length,  and  the  annual  gi^owths 
accumulated  in  great  bunches  round  the  butts  of  the  scrub  on  the  flats  or  in 
other  damp  places  where  it  grew,  until  it  formed  mounds  six  or  seven  feet 
high  and  as  many  in  width.  Where  the  scrub  was  a  bit  open  on  a  flat  it. 
often  cov^ered  the  ground  a  foot  or  so  deep  and  formed  good  feed  for  the 
cattle  in  the  Winter. 

Space  would  not  permit  to  describe  all  the  different  varieties  of  ferns, 
lichens,  mosses  and  parasitic  growths  that  flourished  on  the  trees,  on  rotten 
logs,  on  the  tree  ferns,  and  on  one  another.  Imagine  all  these  trees  and 
plants  growing  thicklv  together  in  rank  profusion  and  vou  will  have  some 
idea  of  what  the  Gippsland  scrub  was  like.  A  vertical  section  of  it  seen  where 
scrub  cutting  was'  going  on  would  reveal,  in  most  of  it.  a  face  of  some  two 
hundred  feet  in  height  showing  several  "strata."  In  the  bottom  was  a  sub- 
stratum of  swordgrass  half  concealing  a  network  of  fallen  saplings  and  logs: 
then  a  stratum  of  bare  stems,  with  another  above  it  of  thick  scrub  tops,  out  of 
Avhich  shot  up  the  trunks  of  the  great  trees'  bearing  aloft  their  masses  of  dark 
foliage  as  a  final  layer. 

Entering  the  scrub  for  the  first  time,  what  imjiressed  one  most  was  the 
wilderness  of  thin  saplings  all  around — 

"Stems  planted  close  by  stems  defv" 
The  adventurous  foot — the  ciu'ious  eye. 
For  access'  seeks  in  vain." 


THE     SCRUB.  41 

Then  the  size  of  the  big  timber  avouUI  strike  you.  It  looked  laroer  in  the 
scrub,  where  it  compared  only  with  saplings,  than  on  the  clearings  where  the 
trees  compared  AA'ith  one  another.  Often  you  could  only  see  one  or  two  of 
their  immense  trunks  at  a  time  looming  u])  through  the  scrub,  as  any  object 
was  hidden  from  vie^A  at  a  chain  or  less  aAvay.  The  next  tiling  that  struck 
you  especially  when  you  attempted  to  move  Avas  the  terrible  tangle  of  logs, 
fallen  saplings,  swordgrass  and  rubbish  of  all  kinds  that  impeded  your  pro- 
gress and  covered  the  ground  entirely  from  sight.  With  arms  crossed  in 
front  of  you,  to  save  your  face  from  the  SAvordgrass.  you  bored  through  the 
ruck  till  you  struck  a  log  or  a  fallen  sapling,  and.  mounting  it.  you  might 
not  touch  gi'ound  again  for  a  hundred  yards  or  so.  step]iing  from  one  fallen 
sapling  to  anotho'  three  or  four  feet  olf  the  grotmd.  It  was  a  "chuck  in"  to 
strike  a  big  fallen  tree  lying  in  the  right  direction,  as  you  Avould  get  easy 
Avalking  on  top  of  it.  A  fi-iend  of  mine  enjoyirg  this  luxury  one  day 
"fell  in"'  very  literally.  He  had  walked  along  from  the  head  to  the  butt  on 
an  old  "downer,"  and  was  looking  for  a  place  to  get  down.  Avhen  a  piece  of  the 
rotten  old  shell  gaA^e  Avay.  and  in  he  Avent.  It  Avas  a  big  tree,  and  he  Avas  a 
small  mail,  and  he  was  up  to  his  neck  in  ii.  nor  could  he  get  out  Avithouti 
assistance.  Further  on  you  Avoidd  enter  perhaps  a  piece  of  more  open  scrub 
with  cathead  bottom  Avhere  cathead  ferns  covered  the  ground:  here  it  i>  better 
going,  but  if  it  has  been  raining  you  Avill  soon  be  Avet  over  the  Icnees  Avith 
their  Avater-laden  fronds.  Or  again  you  might  sti-ike  a  ])atch  of  hazel  country 
which  Avas  the  easiest  going  of  all.  Avith  nothing  in  the  l)ottom  but  leaves  and 
small  rotten  sticks  and  a  few  logs.  You  can  see  better  Avhere  you  are  going 
here,  and  if  you  like  can  haA^e  an  "alpenstock,"  and  a  fresh  one  too,  at  every 
stride,  for  the  hazels  stand  thickly  enough  foj-  that,  and  are  just  the  right 
size  to  grasp  AAith  the  hand:  but  every  time  you  touched  one  on  a  Avet  day  a 
shower  bath  folloAved.  Often  as  you  paused  in  a  gully,  a  mysterious  sound 
of  running  Avater  Avould  be  heard  Avhere  no  water  Avas  to  be  seen:  this  Avas 
the  billabongs — underground  Avatercourses — Avhose  rushing  waters  "murnnired 
far  below." 

In  Winter  the  scrul)  Avas  dark  and  gloomy  and  generally  dripping  with 
moisture  from  frequent  rains  and  mists,  Avhile  the  atmosphere  Avas  heaA-y  with 
a  dank  earthy  smell  peculiar  to  the  scrub.  In  Spiing-linic  and  early  Sunnncr 
the  scene  was  changed.  All  the  scrub  floAvei-ed  and  gave  out  a  beautiful  per- 
fume, and  a  vei"y  sweet  scent  arose  from  it  also  when  it  Avas  cul  in  the  Spi-ing- 
time.  In  the  deep  gidlies.  the  'iim  penetrated  through  bi-eaks  in  the  scrub 
and  woke  lo  life  shades  and  colonrings  that  had  died  during  the  long  Winter. 
The  old  tree  ferns  covered  Avith  mosses  and  stag-hoi-n  had  then  donned  their 
Summer  suits;  and  after  battling  through  a  piece  of  i-ough  scrul)  it  was 
pleasant  to  "have  a  si^ell"  beneatbi  their  shade  in  some  thick  grove  beside  a 
rreek  and  listen  to  the  incessant  hiun  of  insect  life  that  was  ahvays  heai'd  in 
the  scrub  on  a  Summer's  day.  Although  fairly  nnnierous.  the  bii-ds  were 
mostly  a  silent  thi-ong  in  the  Avinter:  but  you  would  not  be  sitting  long  before 
an  inquisitive  hen  lv)"e-bird  Avould  come  liop|)ing  and  fliitlei'ing  i-onnd  in  the 
scrub  at  a  safe  distance,  uttering  a  s'harp  shi-ill  enqniring  note  and  peering  at 
you  from  first  one  ^loint  of  vantage  and  then  another.  JAkv  the  same  sex  in 
a  higher  f>i-ganisation  they  are  exceedingly  curious,  and  Avill  often  run  great 
risks  just  to  find  out  things.  The  male  bird  is  very  shy,  and  disappears  at 
the  crack  of  n  twig:  he  seems  to  know  the  danger  iiis  much-cov<'ted  tail  expDscx 
him  to.  All  through  the  scrub  you  will  notice  where  they  have  been  scratch- 
ing for  food  in  the  bare  s))ots.  and  also  the  mounds  on  Avhich  the  old  fellow 
dances.     ^AHiat  his  idea  is  in  this  performance,  ik*  r)ne  seems  to  know:  some 


4-2  THE     SCRUB. 

say  it  has  an  amatory  significance,  others  that  it  is  merely  a  piece  of  vanity 
to  show  oif  his  tail:  but  it  is  quite  likely  he  is  just  indulging  in  a  bit  of  a 
"tango"  on  his  own  for  the  love  of  it.  You  will  also  notice  a  few  woodpeckers 
running  up  the  bare  stems  of  the  saplings  and  dabbing  here  and  there  at 
invisible  insects,  while  the  lit  tie  scrub  Avrens  (fussy  birds)  are  for  ever  hop- 
ping about  and  running  under  and  over  things.  Occasionally  joii  will  hear 
a  whip  bird  cracking  a  joke  with  his  mate,  who  never  fails  to  appreciate  it. 
The  whistling  jackass  also  contributes  a  few  liquid  notes,  while  his  big 
brother  laughs  at  everything.  High  over  head  an  old  bear  growls  out  a  few 
inconsequent  remarks  and  gurgles  down  into  silence :  keeping  very  quiet  you 
will  probably  notice  a  peaceful  porcupine  walking  thoughtfully  along  a  log 
in  search  of  a  precarioui^  dinnei',  thrusting  an  enquirinti  no^^e  into  the  cracks 
after  unwary  insects.  But  there  is  one  sound  you  will  not  often  hear,  and 
that  is  the  cry  of  a  dingo:  these  vocalists,  like  other  musical  artists,  usually 
reserve  their  orchestral  performances  for  the  night  season.  By  this  time  if 
the  ants,  mosquitoes  and  leeches  have  not  suggested  it  sooner,  you  are  ready 
for  another  start:  and  looking  about  for  an  opening  you  plunge  once  more 
into  the  scrub  on  a  two  hoiu-s'  scramble  to  the  camp  only  a  couple  of  miles 
away,  scaring  the  wallabies  as  you  go. 

I  have  spoken  of  three  different  kinds  of  scrub  that  distinguished  certain 
tracts  of  country,  viz.,  tiie  hazel,  the  musk,  and  the  sapling  scrub.  The  hazel 
scrub  on  the  ridges  consisted  almost  entirely  of  hazels  with  a  few  blackwoods. 
lightwoods.  wattles  and  gmn  sapling.'^,  also  king  ferns  amongst  it:  the  big 
timber  was  chieiiy  blue  gum  with  a  little  white  gum.  or  in  the  East  blackbutt. 
On  the  flats  along  the  big  creeks  and  in  the  gidlies  there  was  less  hazel,  and 
a  bigger  proportion  of  wattles,  blackwoods  and  gum  saplings,  with  creek 
ferns;  and  white  gum,  blackbutt  and  SAvamp  gum  in  the  big  timber.  The 
bottom,  on  the  ridges  in  this  scrub,  was  either  clear  with  patches  of  cathead 
ferns  in  places,  or  it  would  have  a  bit  of  swordgrass  in  it:  on  the  flats  there 
was  wiregrass.  This  country  was  more  easily  cleared  than  any.  as  the  cutting 
Avas  light  and  the  stuff  burned  well,  costing  altogether  about  25/-  to  30/-  an 
acre  to  clear.  But  a  lot  of  litter  fell  afterwards  from  the  big  timber.  The 
hazel  scrub  usually,  but  not  always,  grew  in  the  lighter  soils. 

The  musk  scrub  was  found  in  the  red  or  chocolate  soil  mostly,  and  con- 
sisted of  big  musk  trees  with  pittosporum  of  the  varieties  mentioned  and  big 
blackwoods,  with  a  few  wattles  and  hazels  scattered  through  it.  It  cost 
rather  more  to  clear  than  the  hazel,  as  you  seldom  got  as  good  a  burn,  and  it 
cost  more  to  pick  up.  The  big  timber  was  generally  blackbutt  and  blue  gmn. 
The  bottom  was  usually  open  and  good  to  get  a'oout  in  —  oenerallv  cathead 
fern.s — but  in  places  there  was  a  sood  deal  of  swordgrass.  with  wiresn'ass  in 
the  flats. 

The  sapling  scrub  was  the  most  imposing  of  all  and  by  far  the  most 
costly  to  clear,  costing  from  one  to  two  pounds  to  cut.  and  up  to  four  pounds 
an  acre  to  pick  up  and  burn  off.  It  grew  on  stronger  land  than  the  other 
scrub,  and  consisted  very  largely  of  gum  saplings  running  up  from  sixty  to 
a  hundred  and  twenty  feet  in  height,  and  up  to  three  feet  in  diameter.  There 
was  also  a  good  deal  of  blackwood,  lightwood  and  wattle,  with  a  little  hazel 
and  mu.sk.  There  was  practically  no  big  timber  standing,  but  a  great  deal 
lying  down,  and  the  bottom  was  very  rough,  with  fallen  spars  and  swordgrass 
or  wiregrass. 

In  the  messmate  country  bordering  the  big  scrub  there  was  usually  a 
growth  more  properly  deserving  the  name  of  scrub,  and  consisting  of  prickly 


44  THE     SCRUB. 

mimosa,  clover-bcrub,  lea-tree,  grass-tree,  gum-sapling-s  and  ferns.  Along 
the  creeks  and  risers  rising  in  the  big  scrub  country,  similar  scrub  to  that  on 
the  hills  grew  for  some  distance  along  their  courses,  and  also  a  good  deal  of 
tea -tree. 

The  whole  of  the  foliage  of  the  big  scrub,  except  the  gums,  of  course,  was 
edible  to  stock,  and  was  sometimes  felled  for  them;  but  they  often  made  a 
good  liAdng  in  the  scrub  on  their  own  account  during  the  Winter  where  there 
were  good  wiregrass  flats. 

The  life  history  of  this  great  scrub  has  a  certain  fascination  for  many 
who  take  an  interest  in  the  mysterious  operations  of  nature  in  the  floral 
Avorld.  Why  parts  of  the  scrub  should  be  almost  exclusively  hazel,  others 
musk,  and  others  saiilings,  while  in  others  they  all  grew  together,  was  ac- 
counted for  by  some  in  the  quality  of  the  land.  But  then  we  know  that  nature 
so  often  changed  her  floral  decorations  after  a  fire  that  one  never  could  tell 
whether  the  scrub  you  found  growing  in  a  particular  locality  was  there  by 
accident  or  by  primeval  choice.  Burn  olf  one  kind  of  scrub,  and  frequently 
another  variety  came  u]).  After  a  burn  in  sapling  country  I  have  seen  a  dense 
crop  of  hazel  and  blackwood  come;  after  hazel,  gum  saplings  often  came,  or 
sometimes  a  thick  growth  of  blanket-Avood :  while  dogwoods  come  up  every- 
where. But  nothing  ever  came  again  after  a  good  burn  from  the  roots  or  butts 
of  the  original  scrub ;  it  was  always  from  seed  in  the  ground,  except  in  the  case 
of  musk.  T  have  never  known  that  kind  of  scrub  to  come  again  from  the 
seed,  but  a  little  of  it  woifld  often  shoot  again  fi-om  the  old  butt.  I  have 
loioAvn  sapliug  scrub  reach  a  height  of  seventy  feet  in  fifteen  years  and  hazel 
scrub  over  twenty  feet  in  little  more  than  half  that  time.  Wattles  often  came 
very  thickly  on  the  flats  after  the  fire,  and  sometimes  the  black  hazel,  often 
called  pencilwood.  The  scrub  seed  will  live  in  the  ground  for  many  years:  a 
good  deal  of  it  is  of  the  acacia  ^ecies.  which  germinates  quickly  after  fire. 

Practically  no  young  scrub  was  to  be  seen  in  the  virgin  scrub.  This  was 
accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  very  little  sunshine  ever  reached  the  ground, 
and  that  the  vegetation  Avas  already  too  thick  to  alloAV  any  young  plants  to 
grow,  which  to  my  miud  indicates  a  simultaneous  growth  after  fire.  All  the 
scrub  plants  starting  at  scratch,  so  to  speak,  then,  covered  the  ground  so  thickly 
that  by  the  time  they  began  to  cast  seed  it  had  no  chance  either  to  germinate 
or  to  groAv,  till  the  next  clearance  by  fire  came  along,  when  another  crop  would 
come  up. 

Many  have  queried  as  to  Avhether  Black  Thursday's  fire  passed  through 
the  country.  I  think  there  is  no  doubt  it  did,  and  that  it  was  only  one  of  a 
succession  oi-  similar  fires  that  occurred  periodically,  every  forty  to  sixty 
years,  according  as  conditions  Avere  favourable.  And  those  conditions  were, 
the  accumulation  of  sufficient  debris  to  carry  a  fire,  an  exceptionally  hot 
Summer,  and  a  blackfelloAv's  fire.  Long  l)efore  the  scrub  arrived  at  maturity, 
the  law  of  the  survival  of  the  fittest  Avould  begin  to  operate,  and  a  large 
quantity  of  the  scrub  Avould  die,  causing  an  accumulation  of  dead  stutf  in  the 
bottom.  Then,  in  a  lor.g  dry  Summer  a  large  proportion  of  scrub  leaves 
fell,  and  this,  together  with  the  leava*  and  aceuniulations  of  dry  bark  of  the 
big  timber,  prepared  such  conditions  as  only  Avanted  a  match  or  a  black- 
felloAv's  fire  to  start  a  conflagration  such  as  swept  through  the  standing  scrub 
in  1898.  There  is  abundant  evidence  in  the  charred  trees  and  stumps  of  fire 
having  passed  OA-er  the  coimtry  at  remote  and  also  at  comparatiAcly  recent 
dates.  At  varyinc:  distances  undei-ground  I  haAe  come  on  charred  wood, 
charcoal  and  burnt  earth,  indicating  a  succession  of  fii-es  extending  OA-er    a 


THE     SCRUB.  <!.-, 

long  period.  Also  I  h:\\e  found  remains  of  charred  blackwood  saplings  about 
six  inches  in  diameter  in  the  midst  of  the  virgin  scrub,  where  no  fire  could 
have  been  since  the  scrub  grew.  These  must  have  been  charred  in  some  fire 
of  comparatively  recent  date — probabl}-  that  of  Black  Thursday — or  they 
would  have  rotted  away  and  disappeared. 

The  late  Mr.  E.  C.  Holmes  once  told  me  that  he  saw  these  ranges  burning 
on  Black  Thursday,  and  one  who  was  over  them  soon  after  said  he  had  then 
foimd  them  recently  burnt,  except  for  a  few  patches,  as  far  as  he  could  see. 
These  patches  were  probably  the  places  where  we  found  the  big  green 
blackwood  trees  and  large  scrub  of  other  varieties  when  we  came,  which 
even  a  light  fire  would  have  killed.  In  other  places  the  blackwoods  were 
all  saplings.  From  the  presence  of  so  much  big  green  timber  in  the  scrub, 
some  people  argue  that  there  could  have  been  no  fire  there  during  its  lifetime. 
But  a  fire  through  standing  scrub,  unless  very  fierce,  as  occasionally  on  ridges, 
kills  very  little  of  the  big  timber,  especially  of  the  blue  gum,  wdiich  has  a 
very  thick  bark,  and  often  escapes  largely  even  in  a  burn  where  the  cut  scrub 
miakes  a  much  stronger  fire.  The  white  gum  and  blackbutt  would  suffer 
most  on  tlie  ridges:  and  McDc^nald.  who  passed  through  here  on  the  ridge  ten 
or  eleven  years  after  Black  Thursday,  mentions  "large  white  gum  timber 
nearly  all  dead'"  with  dense  .<crub,  from  where  Poowong  now  .<^tands,  for  thirty 
miles  eastward  alon<j,  the  track  which  bears  his  name.  After  that,  he  says,  the 
big  timber  was  all  green,  and  the  scrub  larger  and  more  open.  Probably  this  is 
the  point  where  Black  Thursday's  fire  stopped  in  that  ])articular  locality. 

In  the  big  sapMjig  country  the  big  timber  was  all  down,  and  had  been  so 
for  many  years  when  the  settlers  first  came — less  than  twenty-five  years  after 
Black  Thursday.  Therefore  it  could  not  have  been  killed  on  that  day,  but 
must  have  suffered  in  some  fire  long  anterior  to  it.  And  although  gum  sap- 
lings run  up  to  a  great  height  very  rapidly,  it  takes  years  for  them  to  thin  out 
so  as  to  allow  the  survivors  to  develop  in  girth.  When  they  groAV  very  thickly 
together,  it  will  often  take  them  thirty  years  to  attain  a  diauieter  of  eighteen 
inches.  So  that  any  country  having  saplings  of  a  diameter  of  two  to  three 
feet  when  the  settlers  came  must  have  been  burnt  long  before  Black  Thursday. 
Probably  the  scrub  was  never  all  burnt  at  one  time,  but  some  portions  in  (me 
fire,  and  others  in  ;in<itlici'  many  years  later. 

The  black's  wei-e  no  (lonlil  llie  originator-  of  the  lii-es.  wliether  accidentally 
or  otherwise.  Perhaps  the  strategy  <»r  some  sable  Napoleon  during  the 
operations  of  a  Summei'  campaign  nia\-  have  denumded  the  burning  of 
portions  of  the  sciiil)  to  emban-ass  the  enemy,  oi-  to  cover  a  masleily  retreat; 
and  so  a  conflagi-ation  would  be  stai'ted.  That  l)lacks  were  numeions  here  at 
one  time  is  pretty  conelusixelv  proved  by  the  number  of  their  stone  toma- 
hawks that  were  found  in  the  scrni).  I  found  one  in  i)articular  which  was 
beautifully  made;  it  was  about  eight  inches  in  length  with  a  cutting  edge  of 
nearlj^  three  inches  perfectly  shaped.  For  two  inch.es  l)a(;k  from  the  oAso 
the  face  was  polished  and  smooth  as  glas.s.  Hollow  mounds  of  clay  aboiit 
two  feet  in  height,  open  .it  one  side  and  jilastered  smooth  within  a?id  bunit 
red  were  also  found,  and  wei-e  supposed  to  he  hhick.-"  ov(  n-. 

In  "Letters  fioni  \  iciorian  Pioneers*'  abo  it  is  mentioned  that  the 
Westernport  blacks  w(i'e  sometimes  hari-ied  by  cei-tain  fierce  hill  tribes,  and 
it  is  very  probable  that  these  latter  were  .some  of  our  beggars.  On  one  occasion 
some  of  the  AVestornpoit  blacks,  bent  on  revenge,  obtained  guns  and  am- 
munitioji    fiom   a   sett  lei-  there  on   (he  inctence  of  L''etting  lyrelurds  for  him 


THE     SCRUB.  47 

("blackbirds"  really  tliey  Meit-  afur).  a)id  then,  toisether  Nvith  lUhers  of  the 
tribe,  went  on  a  campaign  against  their  ancient  foes.  The  campaign,  it 
appeared,  was  eminently  successfnl,  and  returning  a  few  days  later  with  many 
succulent  joints  otl  the  enemy  they  celel)rated  a  good  old-fashioned  cannibal 
banquet.  It  was  said  to  have  been  t)uile  a  "gorge  us"  atlair.  at  which  with  the 
fine  taste  and  appreciatit^i  of  the  noble  savage  tliey  did  not  omit  to  toast  their 
late  enemies,  who  th.ough  absent  maybe  in  spirit  were  more  or  less  present  in 
the  flesh. 

Given  the  presence  of  l)lacks.  the  ixM-iotlical  burning  of  the  scrub  is  ac- 
counted for.  Some  people,  however.  n)aintain  that  the  natives  would  not  live 
in  the  sen;!*,  but  I  fail  to  see  v  liy  they  should  not:  it  wa^  warui  in  the  AVinter 
and  cool  and  shady  in  Summer,  and  there  was  always  plenty  of  good  water  to 
be  obtained,  while  wallabies,  bt-ars.  opossums,  wombats  and  tish  provided 
abundance  of  food.  It  is  also  held  by  some  that  the  evidences  discovered 
were  only  evidences  of  their  luesence  there  at  a  lime  when  the  country  was  all 
open  forest,  or  of  the  natives  merely  passing  through  the  ct)imtry  while  the 
scrub  A\as  there.  As  to  the  tii'st  contention,  the  tomahawks  found  were  all  on 
the  surface,  showing  they  could  noi  liaxi'  beers  there  any  length  of  time  or 
thcA' would  ha\e  been  buried.  And  a-  to  the  laltiT.  the  article^  found  were  far 
too  iniuierous  lo  lin\e  been  drop'ped  Ity  occasional  \  isitoi>. 

There  is  a  legend  ot  some  stockuun  riding  into  thc>c  ranges  from  the 
Southern  jilains  some  sixty  years  ago  .ind  linding  ilicni  open  timbered  comitry. 
But  tlu're  i--  no  ''vidcucc  to  >h(iw  how  far  north  these  men  went.  On  the 
fringe  of  the  scrub  when  we  came  hrst  tluMc  weic  patches  of  open  country  on 
the  i)oints  of  M)me  of  the  ridge^  luiiuing  down  to  the  plains,  and  at  other 
jdaces  also  whei'c  orcasionally  they  cut  (leci)ly  into  the  scrub,  from  the  south, 
and  the  riders  may  nevei-  ha\e  beep,  beyond  thevc  C^umt  Str/.elecki  n>und  no 
open  coiuitrv  when  he  ])assed  through  here  x^ww  -I'xtMUy-six  ycar>  ago.  nor  did 
any  subse«|uent  explorer^. 

On  the  l(i|is  (d'  the  lidgcs  in  the  .-cruh  \  cry  rare  palcho.  to  liic  extent  of 
pei'haps  an  aci-c.  ha\c  been  found  (piiti'  iVcc  I'roin  -iiiib.  ;ind  iira^scd  with 
silver  tussoclcs.  ThcM'  -.ivr  rcgardi'd  by  some  to  be  what  c\  olui  loni'-ts  would 
call  "vestigial  rclio"'  cd'  a  (Uk  c  open  forest,  (ertainly  (hey  are  ictnaikaltle, 
as  no  grass  e\er  grew  in  the  scrub.  Uut  wc  know  that  ui  all  foie>t^  these 
bare  places  occur,  and  may  be  accoiniled  b)r  by  the  al'^cnct'  IKmu  iIu>  >oil  of 
s(!uie  (denienl  necessary  to  l"oi-e>t  gi-owih.  In  another  part  of  the  State  I 
know  of  a  bell  of  golden  wnttle  in  the  uiiiUl  of  which  thert'  is  a  bare  >pot  ; 
all  around  it  the  wattles  have  grown  and  (bed  and  gi-owii  again  >i>any  limes 
for  the  la-t  lifiy  years,  but  nexcr  one  grow--  on  thai  >|)ot      mdy  grass. 

('erlaiid\-  I)aiue  Nalui'e.  with  iipiiarenl  u  liiui^iealil  \  .  will  -onieniues 
remove  a  forest  (hat  has  existed  foi-  age>.  and  leave  a  hare  plain  where  once 
it  ~too<l.  a-  ill  New  Zealand  :  or  co\  <  r  with  M-iiib  conn  try  that  wa-^  open  within 
the  iiienior\  (d"  man.  as  in  (^)iieeiislaiid.  And  -o  in  ages  past,  grown  tired  of 
the  landsenpe  here.  >lie  m;iy  ha\e  eoxeied  onee  ii.iked  range-  with  the  vast 
mantle  of  a  ( Hjjpshmd  !'oi("-l.  ibii  man  h;i-  iiidelv  lorn  il  oil.  never  more  to 
be  replaced:  and  the  iianiit  skeh'ton  of  it>  once  mighty  imlk  alone  renialn-  in 
the  forest  of  dead  tree-  that  ~.taii(U  i)leaclied  mid  while.  ;i  moiiunient  alike  of 
the   ureal    -ciilli  iilid   of  the   iinlii-lrv    lliiil    ele;ii'<M|    il. 


Animal,  Bird,  and  Insect  Life  in  the  Scrub. 


MR.  F.  P.  ELMS. 

it  may  be  ^aid  tliat  aiiiinal  life  was 
not  very  iiiuiierouti  in  the  original  ;^crub 
in  thiri  district,  probably  on  account  ot  tlie 
density  of  the  timber  causing  a  scarcity  of 
edible  herbs.  Conipai'ing  it  with  other 
parts  of  the  bush,  such  as  messmate  range 
country  with  ferny  gullies,  it  bad  less  life 
than  is  to  be  found  in  the  more  open 
country. 

The  wallaby  tribe  was  the  most  iivime- 
rous  among  the  animals.  Black  walla- 
bies, standing,  say,  3  feet  6  inches,  were 
the  largest  specimens,  and  the  scale  de- 
scended dowTi  through  various  grades  of 
kangaroo  rats  and  paddy-melous  to  mice, 
which  had  the  hind  legs  longer  than  the 
fore  ones,  and  which  jumped  instead  of 
running  as  domestic  mice  do.  These  wal- 
labies were  a  great  i)est  to  the  settler.  In 
a  small  clearing  they  would  eat  the  grass 
out.  jU  dusk  they  would  emerge  from  the 
scrub  on  all  sides  and  feed  there  till  day- 
light, then  disappear  into  the  bush;  and 
it  was  with  pleasure  that  the  settler 
noticed,  after  a  few  years  of  settlement, 
A  xATivi:  ATSTKALiAN.  that  a  diseasc  set  in  among  them,  which 

killed     immense  number.-.         Thev  were 

never  ,<o  plentiful  afterwards.         Kangaro(».<  lived  out  en  the  plains,  but    nevei 

ventured  u].  in  the  scrub. 

Opossums  were.  i)erha])s,  the  next  in  number,  and  then  bears.  The 
'possums  were  the  mountain  breed,  which  pos.sess  tbe  mo.st  valual)le  skin  of 
their  species.  A  great  deal  of  money  was  derived  from  the  sale  of  them. 
These  marsupials  carry  their  yonng  in  the  poucii.  In  the  scrub  thev  fed  on 
the  leaves  of  trees,  but  evidently  took  to  eating  grass  when  the  clearings  were 
formed,  for  they  remained  numerous  eAcn  when  the  scrub  Avas  being  cleared 
away. 

The  natiA-e  bears  Avere  numerous,  inhabiting  the  saplings  and  irum-trees 
only,  on  the  leaves  of  Avhieh  they  fed.  On  one  of  the  latter  as  many  as  half  a 
dozen  might  have  been  seen  at  one  time.  They  remained  up  the  large  trees 
for  a  consideral;)le  time,  even  as  long  as  a  month  or  six  Aveeks.  before  descending 
to  change  their  tree.  Their  limbs,  especially  the  fore-arms,  were  extremely 
powerful.  These,  Avith  the  as.sistahce  of  their  formidable  claAvs.  were  neces- 
sary to  enable  them  to  climb  the  long  straight  barrels  of  the  saplings,  100  feet 
up.  Avithout  a  branch  to  re.st  on.     The  yoimg  ones,  after  leaAino-'the  ]ionch, 


ANIMAL,     BIRD,     AND     INSECT     LIFE     IN     THE     SCRUB.  4!t 

clung  to  tile  back  ot  the  mother  for  a  long  period  before  leaving  the  parent, 
and  presented  an  interesting  sight  Avhen  she  was  climbing  a  tree.  At  a  later 
stage,  Avhen  almost  as  large  as  the  parent,  and  when  able  to  feed  itself  on  an 
adjoining  branch,  the  young  ones  would  rush  to  the  mother  and  cling  to  her 
for  protection  on  the  sound  of  danger. 

Dingoes,  the  native  dogs  of  Australia,  were  the  only  ferocious  animals, 
and  they  caused  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to  the  sheep-owner,  necessitating 
folding  the  sheep  every  night.  In  the  Winter  they  got  especially  daring.  e\en 
attacking  l)ig  calves.  Thev  also  .struck  terroi  into  settlers  travelling  alone  up 
the  tracks  in  night  time,  but  apparently  woidd  never  attack  them. 

AVombats  lived  in  burrows  like  wild  pigs.  They  were  niarsui)ials.  and 
lived  on  roots,  vegetables  and  grass.  They  resembled  the  native  bear,  being 
very  strongly  l^uilt  and  provided  with  strong  claws,  with  which  they  tore  up 
the  ground  m  search  of  roots. 

The  platyj)us,  or  duck-moie.  is  found  m  the  creeks.  It  is  in  size  from  a 
foot  to  eighteen  inches  long,  covered  with  a  soft,  thick  fur  of  a  dark  brown 
colour  ab(»ve  and  rusty  yellow  below.  It  is  very  shy,  and  dives  when  alarmed, 
remaining  several  minutes  under  water.  It  constructs  burrows  in  the  banks 
from  under  the  water,  sometimes  extending  20  feet.  Its  food  consi^s  of 
worms  and  ^^ater  insects,  for  which  it  grubs  in  the  mud  banks. 

Lizards,  bandicoots  and  bush  rats  were  numerous,  while  an  occasional 
iguana  might  be  found  in  districts  bordering  on  the  open  forest  country. 
Flying  squirrels  were  perhaps  the  most  peculiar  animals,  and  are  now  all 
gone.  They  came  out  of  their  holes  in  the  large  trees  at  night  time  only. 
Possessing  a  Aveb  of  skin  between  their  fore  and  hind  legs,  also  a  very  long 
and  spreading  tail,  they  had  the  poAver  of  swooping  or  fl3'ing  from  the  top 
of  one  tree  to  the  bottom  of  another,  and  then  with  their  claws  wouhl  climb  up 
again,  tearing  oil  the  bark  on  the  way  in  search  of  food.  After  the  large  tives 
had  been  rung  for  some  time,  the  bai'k  hung  loose  from  them,  and  the  scjuirrels 
could  be  heard  a  great  distance,  malcing  a  hollow  thud,  as  they  alighted  from 
a  flight  from  a  neighboui-ing  tree.  One  of  the  fiercest  animals  of  the  scrub 
when  cornered  was  the  tiger  cat.  Al)out  three  times  the  size  of  the  ordinary 
native  cat.  it  oi)ened  an  enormous  mouth,  showing  an  ari-ay  of  fangs  few  dogs 
would  face. 

The  poi-cupine  was  not  common,  but  miuht  occasionally  be  seen  seek'ing 
food  among  the  litter  of  fallen  leaves  and  bark  on  the  ground,  or  among  the 
moss  irrowini;"  on  a  fallen  and  rotting  forest  giant,  ^^'heu  disturbed,  it 
>tartc'l  burrow  mil:'  and  wa^  >oon  out  of  sigiit. 

The  most  inimerous  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  scrub  were  the  birds.  Some 
were  shy,  and  retreated  as  cleai'inirs  wei'e  opened  up:  others  seemed  to  welcome 
th''  selectoi'  and  thoroughly  enjoyed  t henist'lves  at  ihc  hul  (loor>  on  the 
scrai'S  thiowii  out. 

Lyi'ebir(l>  \vcrc.  i\\'  course,  the  royalties  of  their  species.  'I'hcy  existiid  in 
large  number-,  the  fcnialc--  predominating.  lieMig  (>.\tremely  shy.  they  wei"e 
I'arely  seen,  except  wiicn  come  upon  unawares.  The  cock  bird,  probably 
realising  the  \alue  of  the  tail  he  carried,  was.  if  anyth.ing,  more  timid  than 
his  consoi'ts.  lli>  accomplishment  was  the  wonderful  power  of  mimicry.  On 
a  momid  scratched  up  by  him>elf.  4  feet  or  (>  feel   'n  i|iamet<'r  and  about  nine 


50  ANIMAL,     BIRD,     AND     INSECT     LIFE     IN     THE     SCRUB. 

ijiches  liioh.  lu>  would  dance,  sinir.  'ind  imitate  in  quick  succession,  for  an 
hour  at  a  time,  all  the  notes  of  the  birds  of  the  forest,  from  the  almost 
inaudible  t^vitter  of  a  tomtit  to  the  loudest  guffaw  of  a  jackass. 

The  black  cockatoos  lived  a  transitory  life  in  the  bush.  A  flock  of  perhaps 
twenty  Avould  remain  in  a  certain  spot  for  a  day  and  be  off  on  the  next,  and 
thus  traAel  thi'ough  the  bush.  Their  food  consisted  of  grubs,  which  they 
found  under  the  loose  bark,  also  the  borers  in  the  hazel  trees.  To  get  these, 
after  having  first  located  them  by  listening  to  them  boring  inside  the  wood, 
the  cockatoos  would  gnaw  the  wood  away  with  their  immensely  strong  beaks. 
Pieces  5  inches  long,  and  as  thick  as  one's  finger,  would  be  ripped  off,  till  at 
last  they  got  the  grub  out.  One  could  hear  a  colony  of  cockatoos  a  long 
wav  off  uttering  a  grating  sound,  whilst  busily  engaged  ripping  at  the  bark 
and  wood.  They  had  a  large  expanse  of  wing,  and  were  black  except  for 
yellow  ear  lobes  and  underneath  the  wings. 

Occasionally  a  few  of  the  beautiful  sulphur-crested  white  cockatoos  would 
be  seen,  but  they  Avere  merely  birds  of  passage,  and  never  made  their  homes  in 
the  scrub.  A  few  ""galahs,"  grey  Avith  red  crests,  and  midway  in  size  between 
cockatoos  and  parrots,  also  passed  over. 

Small  cockatoos,  or  cockatoo  parrots,  of  a  mottled  grey  colour,  the  males 
having  red  to]:)knots.  lived  in  the  treetops  on  gum  and  other  seeds. 

Of  the  pai-rots,  the  lowry  was  most  plentiful.  The  younger  birds  were 
gi-eeii.  and  changed  to  a  beautiful  red  with  blue  wing  and  tail  feathei-s  on 
reaching   adult    age. 

Parroquet^  now  and  again  darted  through  the  trees  at  lightning  speed 
in  flocks  of  perhaps  a  score,  uttering  meanA^hile  shrill  bell-like  notes.  How 
they  avoided  collision  with  limbs  and  branches  in  their  terrific  pace  through 
the  forest  mystified  the  onlooker. 

King  parrots,  the  most  beautiful  birds  of  the  bush,  lived  high  up  in  the 
tree  tops,  but  were  Aery  shy  and  not  very  numerous. 

Other  Aarieties  of  bird  life  in  lesser  numbers  Avere  blue  kingfishers, 
jackasses,  whip-birds,  Avoodpeckers,  butcher  birds,  blue  or  harmonious  thrush, 
fantails.  tomtits,  Avrens,  Avattlebirds,  and  robins. 

High  aboA'e  the  big  trees  soared  the  sparroAv  haAvks  and  eagle  haAvks.  and 
in  Summer  time  the  swifts  cii'cled  round  in  the  upper  air. 

Xight  time  brought  forth  the  bats  and  mopokes  to  add  to  the  Aveirdness 
of  the  silent  forest. 

The  most  numerous  of  the  birds  Avere  the  jays,  satin  birds,  and  grey 
magpies.  They  were  the  scavengers  of  the  camps.  What  they  found  to  satisfy 
their  voracious  api^etites  before  the  ach^ent  of  the  settlers  was  a  question.  Jays 
were  dark  broAvn.  almost  black  in  colour,  about  the  size  of  a  large  pigeon,  and 
vei-y  active.  They  would  congregate  about  a  hut  in  flocks  of  up  to  100  and 
literally  clean  up  all  refuse.  Meat  Avas  their  favourite  dainty,  and  Avhen  a 
beast  was  killed,  it  had  to  be  well  protected  from  their  depredations  before 
•  being  cut  doAvn.  "NA'hen  the  pioneer  left  his  hut  for  any  length  of  time,  he  had 
to  securely  tie  up  his  meat  bag.  and  see  that  the  hut  door  and  AvindoAv  Avere 
shut,  or  he  mioht  haA-e  to  go  hunaTv  after  these  scavengers  had  had  their 
fill. 


ANU.AL,     BIRD,     AND     INSECT     LIFE     IN     THE     SCRUB. 


•orossiMS. 


52  ANIMAL,     BIRH.     AND     INSECT     LIFE     IN     THE     SCRUB. 

Sarin  birds,  comely--^iiai:>eil  birds,  tlie  I'enuiles  a  pretty  mottled  green  with 
yellow  nnder  the  wings,  and  the  older  males  a  glossy  purple  black,  were  also 
numerous.  Being  shyer  by  nature  than  the  jays',  they  were  not  quite  so  mis- 
chievous ill  their  behaviour,  but  Avhen  accompanied  by  a  number  of  grey 
maupies.  they  gave  the  householder  quite  enough  to  worry  aliout  in  looking 
after  his  food,  when  (|uitting  the  camp.  Often  at  mealtime^  these  three  kinds 
of  bird.-  would  become  so  familiar  and  daring  as  to  get  inside  the  hut  door, 
as  if  urging  the  cook  to  hurry  up  with  the  scraps. 

Tliree  kinds  of  snakes  inhabited  the  scrul).  They  were  the  tiger,  the 
copper,  and  the  black.  Lizards'  were  numerous  and  occasional  igaranas  were 
seen. 

The  Hsh  in  the  creeks  Avere  eels,  blackfish,  and  small  mountain  trout. 

One  curiosity  of  the  soft,  deep  soil  were  the  gigantic  eartliAvorms. 
Stretched  out,  they  measured  fully  six  feet  and  as  thick  as  one's  thumb.  A 
person  Avalkin<r  over  their  holes  Avoirld  cause  them  to  r-ecede  rapidly  deeper 
doATU.  making  a  queer,  subterranean  noise  or  gurgle  sufficient  to  scare  anyone. 
Often,  being  flooded  out.  they  Avould  lie  stretched  out  on  the  mud  in  the 
tracks  and  prove  an  easy  prey  to  the  jackass  or  the  naturalist. 

Amono-  the  insects,  small  leeches  an  inch  long  were  most  uncomforrable 
and  very  numerous.  If  one  sat  still  for  a  time,  perhaps  half  a  dozen  worrld 
climb  up  one's  legs,  and  start  sucking  the  blood.  sAvelling  to  a  great  size  if 
allowed  to  have  their  fill.  They  would  then  drop  oil'  of  their  own  accord,  but 
Avould  leave  their  memory  behind  in  an  itchy  sore,  sometimes  resulting  in  a 
swollen  limb  if  the  blood  Avere  out  of  order. 

Scorpions  Avere  plentiful  in  some  localities.  They  lived  under  bark  and 
small  timber,  and  required  Avatching.  Avhen  picking  up  the  burnt  scrub.  For- 
tunately, they  have  almost  entirely  disappeared. 

BloAvflies.  a  feAv  house  flies,  gnats  and  mosquitoes  abounded  in  the  air, 
and  gave  a  hearty  welcome  to  man  in  their  solitudes. 

This  is  a  rough  list  of  the  life  of  the  scrirb.  As  the  clearings  extended 
and  drcAv  nearer  to  one  another,  the  scrub  Avas  destroyed,  and  most  of  the 
above  Avent  back.  Some  of  the  animals  remained,  such  as  odd  repres'entatiA-es 
of  the  bears,  opossums  and  Avombats.  Foxes  made  their  appearance,  and 
hares  also  on  the  grass  lands.  A  great  many  of  the  birds  folh)wed  the  forest 
sind  disappeared.  In  Summer.  Avhen  the  large  fires  took  jilace.  the  heat  and 
smoke  drove  them  off. 

XoAv  that  the  country  has  settled  doAvn  to  ((uictude.  some  have  returned, 
and  in  a  number  of  instances  ncAv  kinds  have  put  in  an  appearance. 

The  magpie  did  not  appear  till  there  Avas  some  kind  of  settlement,  and 
still  later  on  appeared  the  dainty  mudlark.  Tbe  loAvry  parrot  is  rarely  seen 
now.  but  the  rosella  has  taken  its  ])iace.  Black  cockatoos,  satin  birds,  jays, 
parrakeets.  king  parrots.  Avoodpeckers.  and  the  whip-l)irds  are  very  rarely 
seen.  ^ 

Lyre  birds  may  still  he  found  in  quiet  gullies.  New  arrivals  are  swallows, 
kesti-eis.  finches  and  staidings.  The  advent  of  the  latter  Avas  the  death  knell 
of  the  grasshopper,  thai  regularly  every  Autumn  devoured  and  laid  bare 
the  grass  paddocks.  This  was  a  great  loss  to  the  early  settler.  The  starling 
remedied  that  for  him.  but  Avhat  he  is  to  ju-ove.  a  friend  or  foe  in  the  future, 
is  a  question  that  remains  to  !)e  solved. 


The   Lyre   Bird. 


MISS  GILLAN. 


The  avei-uiic  lUitisher,  as  a  rule,  kuuws  very 
little  about  Australia,  but  he  is  always  quite  sure  on 
one  point,  and  that  is  that  there  are  no  song  birds  in 
that  country.  This  niiseonception  has  arisen  i)artly 
through  the  |)u'blieation  of  those  unfortunate  lines 
of  Ciordon's  when  he  sung  of  Australia  as  a  land 

'"Where  bright  bloSvSonis  are  scentless. 

And  songless  bright  l)irds.'" 
No  description  could  have  been  more  incorreci.  and 
we  who  live  in  Gippsland  can  hardly  believe  it  pos- 
sible that  such  a  statement  was  ever  taken  seriously. 
Our  bush  is  full  of  songbirds:  we  have  the  thrush, 
magpie,  fantail,  and  many  others,  but  the  king  of 
them  all  is  the  lyre  "hii'd.  As  well  as  possessing  a 
liquid  note  of  its  own,  the  lyre  bird  has  the  faculty 
of  being  able  to  mimic  not  only  every  bird  it  hears, 
l)ut  al.<o  every  other  sormd.  <uch  an  the  bark  of  a 
dog.  the  clucking  of  a  hen.  the  ,<a^nng  of  wood,  the 
sound  of  the  axe.  and  the  sliar])  crack  of  a  whip. 

As  children  we  were  taught  of  the  wonders  of 
the  .\merican  Mocking-Bird.  but  here  in  our  own 
bn.sh  was  a  bird  that  far  exceeded  the  American 
bird  in  powers  of  mimicry,  and  our  .school  books  never  mentioned  it.  lU'sides 
being  famed  for  its  glorious  notes,  our  lyre  bird  is  even  better  known  for 
its  tail.  It  has  sixteen  l(»ng  distim-l  feathers,  twelve  of  them  hav- 
ing fine  and  widely  .•separated  bai'bs :  tlien  ;w(i  l(Mig  middle  feathers. 
each  of  which  has  a  vane  on  one  side  only,  and  two  exterior  feathers  curved 
like  the  sides  of  an  ancient  lyre,  or  shaped  like  the  letter  S  very  much 
elongated.  This  wonderful  tail  is  not  attained  till  the  bird  is  four  years 
old.  It  is  about  two  feet  or  more  in  length,  and  the  l)ird  has  the  power  of 
extending  and  contracting  it  laterally,  spreading  it  widely  wlien  dancing.  In 
colour  the  w-hole  bii-d  is  brown,  but  the  tail  is  of  a  lighter  sbade  than  the 
body,  and  tlie  two  lyre  shaped  feathers  are  striped  bright  l)i'own  and  almost 
a  lavender  siiade  alternately.  All  this  gorgeoiisness  l)oth  in  note  and  colour 
belongs  to  the  male,  who  is  al)out  the  si/e  of  an  English  i)heasant.  and  is 
easily  the  largest  song-l)ird  in  the  world.  Tlie  female  is  a  (|uiet,  little  di-ab 
bird  With  a  plain  little  tail  hardly  worth  mentioning.  She  :  'so  has  a  note  of 
her  own.  but  it  is  merely  an  echo  of  that  of  her  brilliant  mat  '.  Tn  habit  they 
are  very  shy.  and  if  you  go  to  look  for  one  you  rarely  see  it.  Tf  you  do.  it  is 
only  for  an  instant,  the  bird,  either  male  or  female,  being  in  sigiil  one  moment 
and  a\vay  the  next.  Tt  is  useless  to  try  and  follow  it.  as  they  run  tbrongb  tlie 
scrub  with  incredible  swiftness.  The  best  way  to  see  tliem  is  to  go  and  sit 
quietly  in  tbe  l)ush  in  tlie  early  morning  neai-  lln'ii-  liaimts.  By  and  bye.  if  you 
sit  lon<r  enough,  vou  may  be  rewarded  by  bearing  a  rustle  among  tlie  fei-iis 
and  out  will  come  the  bird  carrying  bis  tail  straiglit  behind  bini.  l*eiliaps  be 
is  tJ-oing  to  niak'c  one  of  tlio>e  peculiar  mounds  of  leavo  and  iiibbisb  tliat  you 
have  noticed   in   tlie  busli.  and   if  so.  you  are  indeed    butiniale.     \\'mIc1i   uow. 


.14 


THE     LYRE     BIRD. 


and  di)  not  tnen  hreatiu'.  becaiLse  at  the  leai^t 
Sonne!  he  will  be  off.  See,  he  is  starting  to 
scratch;  and  listen  to  his  notes!  His  tail  is 
no\A'  thro\Ani  i"ight  over  his  back,  almost 
touching  his  liead,  the  pale  shades  of  the 
under  side  making  it  appear  nearly  Avhito. 
He  is  going  round  and  round,  siriging  most 
gloriously,  and  at  the  same  time  making  the 
mound  larger  and  larger.  He  is  not  looking 
for  worms,  but  just  scratching,  and  is  throw- 
ing all  the  leaves  and  soil  behind  him.  In 
a  short  time  he  has  quite  a  decent-sized 
mound,  perhaps  two  or  three  feet  in  diame- 
ter, and  about  three  inches  high  in  the 
centre:  then  something  startles  him,  and  oft' 
he  goes. 

Opinions  differ  as  to  the  reason  of  this 
mound;  some  think  it  is  made  as  a  trap  for 
worms  and  insects  on  w-hich  he  feeds :  others 
think  it  is  part  of  the  courting  programme. 
The  hen  bird  may  have  been  near  the  day  I 
saw  the  mound  being  made,  but  I  caught  no 
gHrnpse  of  her. 

For  a  long  time  I  wished  to  find  a  lyre 
birds  nest,  and  at  last  I  discovered  one. 
quite  accidentally.-  One  afternoon  as  I  was 
coming  from  school  I  noticed  a  drop  of  water 
in  among  some  undergrowth  near  the  path, 
and  I  thought  I  would  see  Avhere  the  water  was  coming  from.  I  went  towards 
the  spot,  and  there  I  discovered  that  Avhat  I  had  taken  to  be  a  drop  of  water 
w;as  really  the  ghnt  of  the  sun  on  the  beautiful,  big,  bright  eve  of  a  lyre  bird 
sitting  on  her  nest.  As  I  approached  she  flew  away,  and  l' peeped  "into  the 
nest  hoping  to  find  a  fine  lot  of  eggs,  but  there  Avasonlv  one.  I  learnt  since 
that  the  hen  never  lays  more  than  one  in  the  season.  It  was  shaped  like  a 
magpie's  i^gg.  only  much  larger,  and  Mas  dark  grev  in  colour  mottled  with  a 
darker  shade  of  grey.  The  nest  itself  w^as  fine  and  roomy:  it  was  built  in 
among  the  roots  of  a  fallen  tree  and  was  covered  completelv  over,  the  opening 
being  at  the  side.  It  consisted  of  small  sticks,  bark,  dried'gi-ass  and  the  soft, 
broAvn,  mos.sy  substance  taken  from  the  tree  ferns.  I  visite^d  the  nest  twice  a 
day.  and  the  mother  bird  got  so  tame  that  she  just  popped  otf  the  nest  on  to  a 
neighbouring  twig  and  was  on  again  as  soon  as  mv  back  was  turned.  In  due 
time  the  L^gg  Avas  hatched,  and  Avhat  a  curiosity  the  voung  bird  was !  There 
seemed  to  be  nothing  visible  but  one  huge  mouth  which  opened  and  closed 
automatically.  The  little  bird  Avas  covered  Avith  a  light  grev  doAvn  and  its 
bones  seemed  far  too  big  and  strong  for  its  skin.  In  a  few  days  it  got  more 
interesting  and  found  its  feet  as  it  were,  for  eA-ery  time  it  Avas  disturbed  it 
Avould  stand  up  in  the  nest  and  stretch  itself  again  and  again,  till  it  seemed 
to  be  groAving  bigger  and  bigger  before  my  very  eyes.  I  used  to  pop  Avorms 
and  grubs  in  its  mouth,  but  it  never  sAvalloAved  "anvthing  I  brought,  so  T 
suppose  the  mother  bird  had  a  special  Avav  of  preparing  the  delicacies  for  her 
baby. 

A  favourite  place  for  the  lyre  bird's  nest  is  among  the  roots  of  a  fallen 
tree,  but  they  also  build  in  broken  tree  stumps  and  among  tree  ferns,  never 


MALE    LYREBIRD. 


THE     LYRE     BIRD.  55 

very  far  from  the  ground.  This  habit  of  building  near  the  ground  is  proving 
disastrous  to  the  lyre  birds  since  the  fox  has  made  its  appearance  in  Gipps- 
land.  as  from  the  position  both  the  bird  and  her  egg  fall  an  easy  prev  to  the 
remorseless  Eeynard. 

The  lyre  bird  usually  lives  on  insects,  worms  and  such  like,  but  if  very 
hungry  is  not  above  taking  grain.  After  the  1898  bush  fires,  I  knew  of  a 
lyre  bird  coming  regularly  to  a  farm  house  and  helping  itself  to  the  food 
thrown  out  for  the  fov.ds.  It  scratches  for  its  food  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
domestic  fowl,  but  having  a  much  larger  and  stronger  thigh  bone  and  leg, 
it  scratches  much  more  vigorously.  I  knew  of  one  getting  into  a  flower  garden 
and  doing  more  harm  in  a  few  hours  than  a  dozen  hens  would  do  in  a  week. 

The  h're  birds  are  becoming  very  scarce  in  this  part  of  Gippsland.  but 
they  are  still  plentiful  away  back  in  the  ranges,  and  an  attempt  is  beino-  made 
to  estaljlish  them  in  the  National  Park  at  Wilson's  Promontory.  It  is  to  be 
hoped  that  this  attempt  will  be  successful,  as  besides  being  a  valuable  insect 
destroyer,  the  lyre  bird  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  and  interesting  song< 
birds  in  the  world. 


iii;.\    i.vi;i;i'.ii;ii 


Pack-tracks   and    Packing. 

MR.  W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 

Perhaps  the  most  difficult  of  the  many  problems  that  confronted  the  early 
settlers  of  South  Gippsland  were  those  of  transport  and  communication  with 
the  outside  world.  My  personal  experience  of  these  questions  dates  from  the 
rear  1878.  when  Poowona",  on  McDonald's  track,  about  16  miles  from  Tobin 
Yallock.  Avas  the  only  settled  centre  in  this  district,  with  a  few  small  clearings 
around  it.  and  only  one  place  of  business,  this  being  the  public-house,  store,' 
and  butchery  of  Mr.  James  Scott,  whose  name  and  that  of  his  family  will  ever 
be  inseparal)ly  as'sociated  with  the  ]:)ioneering  history  of  South  Gippsland. 
Dandenong  was  the  nearest  railway  station,  with  a  coach  service  to  Tobin 
Yallock.  now  called  LaJig  Lang.  The  poi'tion  of  this  road  extending  from 
Cranbourne  to  Tobin  Yallock  contained  many  stretches  of  .swampy  ti-tree 
country,  portion  of  the  Koo-wee-rup  swamp,  Avhich  got  into  a  deplorable 
state  during  Winter,  but  w^as  not  much  used  for  the  carriage  of  goods,  the 
greater  proportion  of  Avhich  were  shipped  to  the  Bluff  at  Westernport,  near 
Tobin  Yallock.  and  carted  by  dray  or  waggon  to  the  ranges. 

It  was  not  until  the  s'ettler  left  the  older  civilisation  with  the  Grantville 
road  at  the  Lang  Lang  river  and  struck  the  dray  track  through  the  Cherrytree 
rises  and  over  the  sand  hummocks,  that  he  fairly  got  into  grips  with  the  diffi- 
culties of  transport.  From  Tobin  Vanock  to  Poowong.  a  distance  of  about  16 
miles,  a  track — 1  was  about  to  say  dray  road,  but  such  a  descrijjtion  would 
be  an  exaggeration — had  been  cleared.  About  a  mile  out-  there  lived  an  old 
identit}',  old  even  at  that  time,  Mr.  James  Baker,  better  known  as  "Jimmy 
Baker,-"  and  his  Avattle  and  daub  house  and  small  orchard  were  well  known  to 
the  incoming  settlers.  The  next  four  or  five  miles  through  the  Gherrytree 
Rises  was  rough  enough,  but  a  fairly  solid  road  with  good  grades  until  the 
sand  hummocks  were  reached.  These  vrere  then  much  the  same  as  they  are  to- 
day, covered  with  loose  sand,  heath,  brushwood,  etc..  and.  like  in  most  barren 
country,  the  physical  features  have  not  undergone  much  change,  even  in  40 
years,  being  in  this  respect  in  striking  contrast  to  the  heavy  forest  immediately 
alongside,  which  has  been  completely  transformed  and  become  utterly  un- 
recognisable after  that  space  of  time.  Vehicular  traffic  across  the  sand 
hummocks  was  extremely  difficult,  more  on  account  of  the  loose  sand  than  the 
steep  grades,  though  some  of  the  pinches  were  steep  enouo-h  and  often 
necessitated  jettisoning  at  least  half  of  the  load  until  Tinpot  Hill  was  reached, 
and  a  return  trii)  made  for  the  othei-  half. 

Tinpot  Hill  was  the  summit  of  the  messmate  covered  ranges  that  fringed 
the  forest  country,  and  from  there  a  last  extended  view  was  obtainable,  which 
from  a  scenic  point  of  view  was  a  very  fine  one,  notwithstanding  the  barren 
)iature  of  the  foreground.  Stretches  of  heavy  messmate.  ()i:)en  timber  country 
extending  in  a  Xortherlv  and  Southerly  direction,  the  white  sand  hummocks 
Avith  patches  of  stunted  scrubby  growths  and  an  endless  variety  of  shades 
of  pink  and  Avhite  heaths,  Avith  the  placid  Avaters  of  AYesternport.  and  its 
surrounding  coimtry.  made  a  most  charming  lands'cape.  To  the  earliest 
settlers  the  memories  of  that  prosaically  named  spot  "Tini:)ot  Hill"  Avill  be 
always  pleasant,  as  after  twelve  months"  solid  toil  in  the  cii'cumscribed  ai-ea 


PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING.  57 

of  a  few  acres  of  clearing,  the  first  glimpse  of  the  sea  and  a  landscape  extend- 
ing over  50  milcb'  had  a  charm  which  had  to  be  experienced  to  be  appreciated. 
Many  of  these  settlers  have  now  the  glorious  privilege  of  seeing  both  Westeni- 
port  and  Anderson's  Inlet  as  well  as  the  mighty  "Baw  Baw"  from  their 
elevated  residences.  Avith  the  additional  ad^  antage  of  owning  a  portion  of  and 
living  amongst  range  after  range  of  the  most  fertile  grass  covered  country  in 
all  Australia:  but  many  of  them  have  toiled  anything  from  -20  to  40  vears 
before  the  glory  was  realised. 

After  turning  our  backs  on  the  outer  world  at  Tinpot  Hill,  the  next  .sign 
of  civilisation  was  the  isolated  homestead  of  Mr.  .Justin,  alxnit  a  mile  further 
on,  and  from  hi>  house  eastward  one  got  a  first  ta.ste  of  ilic  hill  country. 
The  lops  of  the  hills,  known  then  as  the  ^It.  Lyell  ranges,  were  fairly 
thickly  covered  with  timber,  inostl}'^  messmate,  gum  and  smaller  growths,  the 
gullies  having  a  denser  growth  similar  to  the  forest  country.  Tlu>  road 
o\er  the  ranges  Avas  known  as  ^IcDonakPs  track,  and  ran  almost  straight  in  an 
easterly  direction.  The  first  earthworks  in  the  South  Gippsland  hill  country 
were  put  in  on  this  road  between  Baker's  and  Dunlop'.s  properties,  just  where 
the  road  rises  into  the  hill  country.  At  Mr.  Dunlop's  the  dray  track  entered 
the  lordly  fore.st,  and  after  penetrating  the  scrub  country  for  about  nine  miles 
became  a  mere  pack-track  still  trending  eastward.  It  was  the  only  means  of 
communication  for  the  whole  district  eastward  of  Poowong.  and  the  onl}-  other 
line  of  communication  branched  off  from  it  at  Ferrier's  cam[)  in  the  shape  of 
another  pack  track  known  as  the  "South  track.*"  or  "Down  South.""  running 
through  Molloy"s,  Cook  Bros.,  Holmes".  Ireland's,  Hosking's,  and  Fuller's 
holdings,  and  thence  southward  and  eas'tward  as  the  country  was  opened  up, 
which  servi'd  as  an  outlet  for  the  .Junibunna  P]a~t  and  lvorunil>urra  di-^tiicl^. 
From  this,  another  very  long  stretch  of  track  diverged  at  Mr.  R.  J.  Fuller's 
property  through  ]\Iessrs.  Buchanan  and  Brind's.  Fribb's.  and  Hoi'nei-"^  ])ro- 
perties.  and  thence  on  to  Grantville. 

It  can  well  be  imagined  how  Ferrier"s  junction  on  McDonald's  track 
became  a  depot  for  all  .sorts  of  merchandise.  .Vll  around  A\as  bush;  Scott"s 
clearing  was  faii'ly  close,  but  ihe  track  itself  was  in  the  l)iish:  and  here  most 
of  the  incoming  selectors  would  first  make  the  acquaintance  of  one  of  the 
earliest  and  hardiest  pioneers  of  South  (iipjjsland.  Mr.  David  Ferrier.  who 
owned,  and  still  oAvns,  a  selection  close  to  Xyora  on  the  very  fringe  of  the 
scrub  country.  In  the  I*oowong.  K(»iuniburra.  .himbunna.  and  .b'clbu  dis- 
tricts', there  was  no  man  better  known  or  respected,  or  had  sucb  a  wealth  of 
ex[)erience  of  pack  tracks  and  packing  and  cai-ti)ig  with  horse  teams  than  this 
sturdy,  genial,  tough  Scot,  who  for  many  years  was  constantly  employed 
carting  with  horses  and  drays  from  AVesteinport  to  the  bush  junction,  and 
j>acking  fi'om  there  to  anywhere.  He  usually  contrived  to  arrive  at  the 
junction  about  dark,  but  the  <'xigencies  of  the  track  and  the  climate  had  to 
be  reckoned  with,  and  his  anival  might  be  at  any  hoiu'  of  tlie  day  or  night,  and 
night  tra\('lliug  in  the  l)usli  as  it  Avas  nearly  40  years  ago,  Avith  somewhere 
al)out  .")0  iucl)es  of  rain  ])er  annum,  was  a  .sei'ious  proposition.  Many  a  time  I 
haAe  jiassed  the  de])ot  some  time  after  (hirk — and  dark  does  not  (|uite  descrii)e 
the  colour  of  a  ])acU'  track — with  a  bottle  and  candle  for  a  huitern,  and  the 
first  intimation  of  the  cai'rier's  pi-eseiu-e  would  be  the  sound  f)f  the  horses 
munching  theii-  feed,  and  our  {Khh]  frieiul  David  snoi-ing  out  a  sonorous  bass. 
Hail,  rain  or  simshine  Avas  all  the  same  t(>  him:  he  was  always  happy.  A 
couple  of  bags  of  gra.ss  seed,  flour  bags,  or  bettei-  still,  a  bag  or  tAvo  of  horse- 
fee(l,  Avith  aii  old  tarpaulin  r-iggcfl  as  a  fly  to  keep  off  the  ever-drizzling  rain, 
and  he  Avould  >lc("i)  moie  soundly  than  most  of  his  city  kinsmen  would  upon 


-,S  PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING. 

their  well-uphol&'tered  beds.  He  had  a  capacity  for  adapting  himself  to 
circumstances  that  fitted  him  admirably  for  the  occupation  he  followed, 
and  his  inherent  ''bonhomie''  made  him  immensely  popular  with  the  people 
among'st  whom  he  travelled  periodically.  The  pack  track  "down  South'"  left 
iSIcDonald's  track  at  Ferrier's  camp  and  was  merely  cleared  of  undergrowth, 
o>erhanging  timber  and  branches  for  a  width  of  6  or  T  feet,  so  narrow,  in  fact, 
that  with  a  bulky  pack  load  the  horses  had  a  struggle  to  pass  between  the  trees, 
and  as  most,  if  not  all,  of  these  pack  tracks  were  made  bj^  the  settlers,  they 
naturally  were  made  with  the  least  possible  expenditure  of  time  and  labour. 
The  numerous  large  logs,  many  of  them  as  solid  as  the  day  they  had  fallen, 
though  sodden  and  waterlogged  and  overgrown  for  a  great  number  of  years, 
would  have  a  gap  cut  out  of  the  top  sufficiently  wide  and  deep  to  allow  the 
horses  to  step  over  the  uncut  portion.  These  gapped  logs  were  a  continual 
source  of  trouble  to  the  packer,  owing  to  the  fact  that  during  the  Winter 
months  the  constant  step]:)ing  over  them  wore  deep  holes  on  either  side,  w^hich 
were  full  of  water  for  six  or  eight  months  of  the  year,  and  the  depth  could 
not  be  gauged  until  the  unfortunate  animal  touched, bottom.  The  peculiar 
netAvork  of  underground  Avatercourses  and  crabholes  also  added  a  very  serious 
difficulty  Avhen  travelling,  particularly  at  these  logs,  and  w^ere  so  numerous 
that  many  of  these  partially  cut  logs  might  liaA'e  an  underground  watercourse 
on  one  side  or  the  other.  An  ordinary  hole,  the  result  of  wear  and  tear  on 
each  side  of  a  log,  is  bad  enough  for  a  heavily  laden  pack-horse  to  negotiate, 
but  when  these  open  out  into  still  lower  depths,  including  the  stiff  clayey  sub- 
soil, the  log  then  becomes  a  serious  obstacle.  There  is  only  one  passage 
through  it,  so  the  horse  probably  makes  a  supreme  effort  to  jumi^  over,  and  if 
successful  will  be  very  fortunate  if  his  pack  i-  not  sadly  damaged  or  dis- 
arranged through  striking  the  cut  ends'  of  the  logs  as  he  passes  throughl 
Experienced  bushmen,  on  breaking  into  a  bad  crabhole  when  riding  along,  in- 
variably dismount  and  ram  a  long  pole  into  the  trap  as  a  guide  to  the  unwary, 
and.  should  one  of  them  be  seen  at  the  side  of  a  gapped  log,  it  was  usually 
considered  advisable  to  dismount,  and  thereby  lessen  the  risk  of  a  fall  for 
both  horse  and  rider. 

Another  difficulty  common  to  pack  tracks  Avas  falling  timber.  A  large 
tree  ncAvly  fallen  would,  if  in  a  rough  spot,  completely  block  the  track  and 
necessitate  the  traveller  unprovided  with  an  axe  returning  to  the  nearest 
settler  to  get  one ;  the  professional  packers  and  old  hands.  hoAvcA^er.  iuA'ariably 
carried  one  in  case  of  a  block.  In  some  cases  a  detour  might  be  made  without 
much  difficulty,  but  in  others  it  Avould  be  impossible  to  do  so  without  an  axe. 
I  haA'e  often,  in  rough  scrub,  had  to  carry  logs,  limbs  of  trees,  etc..  to  stack 
on  either  side  of  a  ncAvly  fallen  tree  to  enable  the  pack  horse  to  scramble  oA-er 
it.  Sometimes  a  spar  Avould  fall  across  the  track  and  hang  up  in  the  scrub 
at  a  distance  from  the  ground  that  might  allow  a  horse  to  jiass  underneath 
bareback,  but  the  rider  or  pack  Avould  have  to  come  off  to  alloAv  a  passage. 
Instead  of*  cutting  the  larger  trees  a  detour  might  be  made  round  the  head 
or  the  upturned  roots.  These  roots  w^ere  responsible  for  much  trouble  to  the 
pack  loads,  as  the  dry  sprags  that  protruded  so  plentifully  out  of  the  up- 
turned clay  were  so  tough  that  if  the  side  of  the  pack  got  caught  there  would 
be  trouble. 

The  saddle  generally  used  for  packing  consisted  of  a  pair  of  Avell-s'tuffed 
leather  coA'ered  flaps,  extending  from  immediately  behind  the  horse's 
shoulders  to  the  flanks.  On  each  flap  near  the  top  Avas  riAetted  a  stout  Avooden 
batten  to  fi:;iA-e  stability  to  the  saddle,  and  the  whole  Avas  joined  across  the 
horse's  back  1)A'  tAvo  iron  ai'ches.  standing  Avell  up  ovei-  tlie  l)orse's  backbone. 


PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING. 


o9 


PACKING. 


On  these  arches  were  iroi*  hooks  on  which  to  hang  the  side  packs.  The  saddle 
had  two  girths,  hreastplate  and  crupper  to  keep  it  in  position.  It  had  four 
packstraps  fitted  with  rings  to  hang  on  the  saddle  hooks,  and  a  surcingle 
about  15  feet  long  to  go  round  the  coniph^te  pack  and  hohl  everything  in 
position.  All  these  fittings  were  necessarily  made  of  stout  leather  to  with- 
stand the  rough  usage  they  received.  As  a  pack  ahvays  had  a  tendency  to 
work  loose  on  the  journey",  the  surcingle  before  starting  was  fastened  as 
tightly  as  possible  in  spite'of  the  protest  the  horse  usually  showed  by  fidgetting 
about  and  laying  its  ears  back. 

Tlu'  ai  langi'ineiU  ol'  a  pack  load  at  stai-ting  was  always  an  inipoi-tant 
considei-ation,  and  as  .stores  were  the  chief  portion  of  most  loads  for  the  first 
few  years  of  settlement,  it  requii-ed  considerable  care  in  ai-rangement  to  ensure 
the  goods  airiving  at  their  destination  without  foreign  flavours.  For  instance, 
a  ])ack  might  consist  of  Hour,  sugar,  salt  beef,  kerosene,  etc.  A  carele.'^s  loader 
might  place  either  the  sodden  salt  beef  or  the  kerosene  on  top  of  the  load, 
with  dire  results  to  the  flour  or  sugar,  and  many  a  ]noneer  has  had  to  endure 
the  fla\-our  of  kerosene  in  his  bread  or  tea.  for  months  perhajrs,  while  "wading" 
throuLdi  a  bai!'  <»!'  flMur  or  ^ngai'  upon  which  ;i  leak'nu'  tin  of  kei'osene  has 
been   paclced. 

TJu'  life  of  a  pack  horse  was  a  most  niu-nviablc  one  The  pack  .saddle 
itself,  owing  to  the  nature  of  its  construction,  was  liable,  in  the  hands  of  a 
careless  person,  to  cause  the  horse  a  great  deal  of  unneces.s'ai-y  i)ain.  Some- 
times the  arch  of  the  ircm  trees  was  made  too  low  or  too  narrow,  and  if  the 


60  PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING. 

isturtino"  of  the  saddle  was  not  constantly  attended  to.  the  continual  lurching 
to  and  fro  as  the  horse  struggled  along  the  rough  uneven  tracks,  Avould, 
sooner  or  later,  cause  the  forward  on.e  of  these  trees  to  come  down  on  the 
Avithers.  pinching  aiul  galling  them  badly,  especially  when  going  down  hill. 
Sometimes  the  downhill  strain  on  the  cru})per  ancl  breeching  would  be  so 
intense  that  the  skin  wo\dd  be  chafed  until  almost  raw.  Two  of  the  com- 
monest troubles  with  pack  horses  ^^ere  girth  galls  and  mud  fever.  The  strain 
and  struggle  of  the  unfortunate  horses  wdien  climbing  the  steep  hills  and 
descending  them  made  it  absolutely  necessary  to  have  the  girths  and 
surcingles  so  tightly  fastened  that  it  almost  amoimted  to  cruelty,  hence  the 
inevitable  girth  galls,  largely  due  also  to  the  use  of  leather  strand-girths; 
the  Queensland  girths  in  use  nowadays  would  have  minimised  the  evil.  Mud 
fever  was  caused  by  the  continual  adhesion  of  mud  to  the  horses'  legs  and 
ribs,  resulting  in  the  matted  hair  and  mud  peeling  oil'  in  flakes  in  the  Spring 
time.  It  must  be  remembered  that  the  pack  tracks  were  continuously  muddy 
for  six  or  eight  months  in  the  year,  and  with  the  Gippsland  drizzle  for  as 
many  months,  there  was  no  chance  of  grooming.  Hard  feed  Avas  as  scarce  as 
sunshine,  a  bit  of  grass  hay  being  the  only  luxury  in  this  direction,  and  very 
rare  at  that.  Rugs  there  were  none,  the  bush  was  the  only  protection  from 
wind  and  storm,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that  this  protection  was  of  muclii 
greater  value  than  has  been  estimated.  The  settler's  clearings  were  but  small 
pot-holes  in  the  gigantic  forest,  and  the  settler's  horses  and  cattle  had  at 
least  the  splendid  shelter  which  a  forest  like  this  affords. 

If  a  man  had  to  load  a  pack  horse  with  a  heavy  load  by  himself,  it  was 
by  no  means  an  easy  matter.  A  three-hundred  weight  load  would  probably 
be  divided  as  nearly  as  possible  into  130  lbs.  on  each  side  and  the  balance  on 
top.  If  the  horse  is  fairly  quiet,  the  first  side  is  not  hard  to  put  on,  and 
when  hooked  on  must  be  propped  underneath  wath  a  stick  to  keep  it  from 
slipping  round.  Then  the  diiiicult  part  begins;  while  struggling  to  get  the 
other  side  of  the  pack  up  and  fixed,  the  horse  may  give  a  lurch  over,  and 
away  will  drop  the  propstick  and  around  goes  the  pack  saddle,  and  the  Mhole 
performance  has  to  be  done  again.  It  takes  a  considerable  amount  of  ex- 
perience in  strapping  to  ensure  safe  transit,  especially  as  every  now  and 
then  the  pack  will  be  bumped  against  a  tree  or  dragged  on  the  side  of  a  cut 
log,  or  forced  under  an  overhanging  limb  or  spar.  The  most  careful  strap- 
ping and  tying  Avill  not  always  meet  these  contingencies.  As  a  rule  pack 
horses  became  so  used  to  their  work  that  it  was  not  necessary  to  lead  them — 
just  load  them  up,  fasten  tlie  reins,  and  drive  them  ahead.  Occasionally, 
through  not  having  control,  the  unforeseen  would  ha])pen.  Where  packmen 
had  a  team  of  several  horses  to  load,  the  packs  would  he  suited  to  the  vagaries 
of  the  horses'  dispositions  and  their  ability  to  carry  weight.  In  arranging 
the  loads,  the  heavier  goods  w-ere  usually  put  on  the  sides  and  the  bulkier 
goods  on  top.  A  medium  draught  horse  would  be  expected  to  carry  from 
250  to  300  lbs.  Mr.  Ferrier  used  heavy  draughts,  and  has  at  times  packed  as 
much  as  two  2001b.  bags  of  floiu^  on  one  horse.  I  remember  his  packing  a 
chaffcutter  from  Poowong  to  Mr.  Salmon's  selection.  The  chafl'cutter  was  a 
fair  load  for  one  horse,  so  he  got  two  short  lengths  of  light  treefern  stem  and 
strapped  them  on  either  side  of  the  pack  saddle,  and  laid  the  chaffcutter 
across  these  on  top  of  the  saddle  and  fastened  it  securely. 

The  unspeakable  roughness  of  the  pack  tracks  was  i-esponsible  for  the 
pack  saddle  and  its  equipment  being  in  a  constant  state  of  disrepair.  The 
nearest  saddler  was  at   Cranbourne  or  Dandenong.  so  home  repairs  had   to 


PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING.  (il  . 

suffice.  Packstraps.  girths,  breeching-,  breastplates  and  siircing:le  were  liable 
to  accident  at  any  minute,  and  as  the  outfit  did  not  comprise  facilities  for 
riveting  or  sewing,  a  pocket  knife  and  a  piece  of  string  nsually  had  to  fit  the 
emergency. 

If  a  bag  of  flour  or  potatoes  comprised  the  load  and  the  sacks  were 
strong,  one  could  dispense  with  j^ack  straps  and  surcingle  by  dividing  the 
load,  and  hooking  tiie  d(»ubie  of  the  sack  on  the  saddle  ]u)oks.  or  lashing  the 
inouths  of  the  two  sacks  together  and  slinging  them  across  the  saddle.  I 
have  struggled  and  strained  many  a  time  to  reload  a  pack  of  this  kind  after 
a  mishap,  and  have  had  finally  to  untie  the  sacks,  place  them  on  top  of  a 
high  log.  stump  or  fence,  then  re-tie  them,  and  from  this  more  elevated 
position  endeavour  to  *ling  them  oA'er  the  horse. 

Outfits  for  contractors  for  cutting  scrub  or  picking-up  were  freipiently 
packed,  and  if  the  horses  were  of  a  flighty  disposition  considerable  diversion 
might  I'esult.  Genei-ally.  blankets,  tents  and  groceries  would  be  j)laced  on  the 
side  packs,  with  probably  a  frying  pan.  sticking  through  the  outsi(k>  straps. 
On  top.  a  kerosene  case,  to  do  duty  later  as  a  table,  a  kerosene  tin.  billies, 
pannikins,  etc.  All  might  go  well  until,  in  passing  along  the  ti'ack.  the  horse 
lurched  against  a  tree  which  the  handle  of  the  frying  pan  gripped,  and  the 
horse,  being  hauled  up  at  an  unaccustomed  point,  sets  up  an  active  resistance. 
It  then  became  a  question  whether  the  packstrap  or  the  frying  pan  handle 
would  hold  out  the  longest.  Then  something  more  unexpected  still  might 
astonish  the  ah'eady  much  aiirighted  "Dobbin."  The  kerosene  tin,  with  the 
billies  and  |)annikins,  set  up  such  a  din  with  the  uinisiial  bumping  that  the 
unfortunate  animal  thinks  he  has  got  a  cargo  of  tin  kettles  aboard,  and  that 
it  is  time  for  him  to  get  away  from  the  trouble.  A  big  hea\-e.  and  snap  goes 
the  pack.-,trap.  down  drops  the  swag  and  frying  pan.  and  away  gallops 
"Dobbin"  as  hard  as  the  nnture  of  the  track  and  the  dangling  balance  of  the 
load  will  let  him.  AVith  one  side  of  the  pack  gone,  he  does  not  go  far  before 
the  sa<ldle  begins  to  sli;)  i-ound.  and  then  the  fun  begins.  The  better  and 
stronger  the  harness,  the  worse  the  trouble,  as  it  will  take  him  so  much  longer 
to  get  free  of  the  kerosene  tins,  billies,  etc..  with  the  groceries  and  pack  saddle 
between  his  legs.  If  he  has  a  kick  left  in  him.  short  worlv  will  be  made  of 
Avhat  is  left,  and  il  may  i-e(|uire  a  basin  and  spoon  to  recoxcr  liie  icuiains  of 
the  kitchen  utensils  and  stores,  and  probably  the  services  of  two  men  and  a 
l)oy  will  be  i-ecpiii'ed  to  iuduce  "Dobl)in"  to  become  robed  in  a  pack  saddle 
on  any  fiitiiic  occa>ioii.  Thi^  i-  not  mere  raiicy.  I)ut  an  actual  experience, 
and  is  ty))ical  of  what  has  occurrecl  oxer  and  oxer  again  in  the  early  ex- 
periences of  (iippsland  settlers,  and  what  must  occur  to  nio>i  pioneers  under 
similar  ci)-cumstances.  On;'  has  but  to  consider  ;in  instance  siicli  as  the  above 
and  remembei'  that  for  eight  months  of  the  year  there  was  iVom  t)  jo  IR 
inches  of  mud  on  the  viippslund  tracks,  to  form  sonic  idea  of  the  disad- 
"vantages  of  pack-inii'  a.^  a  means  of  Iransiort.  Article^  (d"  furniture,  on 
account  of  tiieii'  bulk,  were  p;i  1 1  icniarly  liable  lo  mishap:  in  fad.  anything 
brcak'aMe  r:;n   big  risks. 

I'(  rhap^  th<'  most  dangerous  |;arl-.  of  these  pack  li'acks  were  (he  bi'idges 
which  spanned  the  creeks  and  gullies,  and  which  were  made  in  a  \ery 
primitive  style.  The  deck'ing  was  usually  split  out  of  small  blackwood  spars 
oi'  gum  saplings,  and  conse(|uen( ly  one  edge  was  \'erv  thin,  and  soon  weai-  and 
tear  made  dan.gerous  (>penings  between  the  slab,  nnd  while  it  was  recognised 
as  everybody's  business  to  help  make  the  pacl<  track's,  il  was  nobody's  business 
to  k'eep  a   bridiic  mi   repair:  ^o.  if  I  here  was  a   hole,  (lie  man   whose  horse  first 


(j2  PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKliNG. 

broke  through  it  might  phig  a  .stick  iii)right  in  it  to  warn  the  next  traveller; 
or.  if  he  had  an  axe,  might  cut  a  fern  wedge  to  stop  it  up;  but  as  soon  as  dry 
weather  came  it  would  drop  out  and  the  hole  reappear.  Occasionally  bridges 
had  handrails  made  of  saplings  dropped  into  forked  sticks,  but  more  often 
there  were  none.  A  bridge  I  have  often  crossed,  which  spanned  the  Tarwin 
Eiver  at  Alirboo  South,  near  Mr.  Dodd's  selection,  is  worth  describing.  It 
was  about  a  chain  in  length,  and  was  made  b}'  using  one  log  which  Avas  dressed 
on  top,  with  split  saplings  laid  across  and  spiked  to  it  for  decking.  For 
many  years  it  was  used  for  horse  traffic  only,  but  when  Mr.  Goad,  a  district 
carrier,  bought  a  property  across  the  river,  he  used  to  drive  his  waggon  across 
it  at  all  hours  of  the  da}'  and  night.  On  one  occasion,  while  shutting  a  gate 
close  to  the  bridge,  his  horses  moved  on,  and  before  he  could  reach  them,  they 
were  on  the  bridge,  and  with  the  vehicle  capsized  into  the  river. 

Another  remarkable  bridge  was  built  in  later  years  also  in  Mirboo  South 
across  the  Tarwin  KiA'er  as  a  short  cut  from  the  township  to  the  recreation 
ground,  the  Shire  bridge  on  the  main  road  necessitating  a  long  detour.  The 
method  of  construction  was  the  same  as  a  wire  and  picket  fence.  Two  sets 
of  wires  spanned  the  river,  and  the  pickets  Avere  interlaced  horizontally  into 
the  wires  and  driven  up  as  close  as  possible  to  another.  There  were  no  hand- 
rails, and  no  central  supports.  It  Avas  only  used  as  a  footbridge,  and  it  can 
Avell  be  imagined  that  the  first  time  of  crossing  this  structure.  Avhich  had  all 
the  motion  of  a  suspension  bridge  greatly  exaggerated,  pr.iduced  many 
A'aried  and  queer  sensations.  Quite  a  number  of  ladies  and  children  enjoyed 
the  sAvitchback  motion,  but  there  are  others  Avho  maintain  that  the  longer 
way  round  by  the  road  bridge  is  the  safest  way  to  the  recreation  ground. 

One  of  the  most  picturesque  stretches  of  pack  track  I  haA'e  seen  was  in  the 
Mirboo  South  district  about  the  A^ear  1886.  On  the  road  from  Mirboo  South 
to  Foster,  just  beyond  Berriman's  selection,  Avas  a  long  stretch  of  boggy  scrub 
track,  and  as  the  tree  ferns  were  very  numerous,  the  whole  of  this  strip  had 
been  ct)rduroyed  five  or  six  feet  Avide  Avith  tree  ferns.  Avhich  had  shot  out  a 
neAv  groAvth  of  fronds,  and  made  quite  a  charming  avenue.  ^Ir.  Berriman's 
neat  little  bush  home  svas  only  a  short  distance  aAvay,  and  his  selection,  like 
much  of  the  Mirboo  country,  Avas  very  heavilA'  studded  Avith  tree  ferns.  His 
garden,  which  abutted  on  the  track.  Avas  fenced  Avith  green  tree  ferns,  and 
the  path  leading  from  the  gate  to  his  house  Avas  also  corduroyed  Avith  tree 
ferns.  Avhich  had  sent  up  a  luxuriant  growth  of  fronds,  the  Avliole  giA'ing  the 
little  homestead  a  most  unique  appearance. 

My  first  experience  of  packing  Avas  in  isjl).  wlien  taking  with  my 
father  the  first  consigmnent  of  goods  from  Scott's  store  at  PooAvong  to  the 
contractors  cutting  scrub  on  Mr.  GAvyther's  property  south  of  Leongatha. 
We  folloAved  McDonald's  Track  to  Murdoch's  store,  then  Avent  through 
Messrs.  Nicholas'  and  Watt's  selections  to  Mr.  AV.  Langham's  original  home- 
stead. Avhere  we  were  Aery  hospitably  entertained  at  dinner.  From  there  the 
only  other  sign  of  civilisation  was  Mr.  Eccles*  camp.  On  leaving  this  Ave 
entered  the  large  coal  reserAes.  Avhich  included  Korumburra.  at  that  time 
dense  bush,  and  ai'rived  at  Coal  Creek  (Silkstone)  bridge.  tAvo  logs  Avith 
tree  ferns  for  decking,  and  it  being  dark  Ave  camped  there  for  the  night. 
There  Avere  a  couple  of  forked  sticks  on  each  side  of  the  bridge,  and  by 
placing  a  couple  of  hazel  poles  across  them  the  horses  Avere  preAented  from 
getting  back.  Their  food  consisted  of  ])]anketAvood  and  hazel  leaA'es,  and 
wiregrass.  of  Avhich  there  Avas  abundance.  This  spot  had  evidently  been  used 
before  for  camping,  as  close  to  the  bridge  there  Avere  four  large  forked  sticks 
stuck  in  the  grounrl  Avith  cross  pieces  laid  on  them,  and  fern  fronds'  on  the 


PACK-TRACKS     AXi)     PACKING. 


63 


A     I'lONEEKS     IJKIlXiE. 


top  for  a  roof,  aiui  under  this  ^we  camped  for  ihe  night.  Next  morning  we 
resumed  our  journey  along  the  original  track  cleared  by  Sm'veyor  Whitelaw 
many  years  previously,  and  ^Yhich  Ave  had  followed  after  leaving  Mr.  Eccles' 
selection.  The  track  was  much  overgrown,  and  in  many  places  we  had  to 
cut  our  way  through.  After  a  time  we  emerged  upon  a  plain  known  then 
as  AMiitelaw's  phiin.  close  to  Messrs.  McXaughton  and  Langham's  ])i-esent 
holdings  at  Kcu'umhurra  South,  and  made  across  it  for  two  li'ees  wliich 
constituted  an  arcli  on  ihe  opposite  side.  I'^rom  there  on  there  was  only  a 
blazed  track  through  the  open  messmate  timber,  which  we  had  considei-al)le 
dithcidtv  in  following.  Then  wc  oot  intfT  heavy  ti-tree  scrub  denser  than  any 
hazel  or  other  scrub  country  1  have  seen.  Througii  this  "Whitelaw  had 
cleared  a  good  pack  track,  which  later  passed  through  some  very  swampy 
and  boggy  lightei-  ti-tree  comitry.  E\entually  we  got  to  (iwythei'"s  j)ropt'r(y. 
wheiv  wc  left  our  packs,  had  dinner  with  the  contractors,  and  returued  to 
Coal  Creek  for  the  night,  aud  readied  Poowong  next  d.iy.  Xol  long  aftei- 
]ea\ing  the  camp  at  Coal  Cieek  my  father  put  uic  <>u  one  i>l'  Ihe  pack  horses, 
and  while  passing  uiuler  an  .»\ciliai'ging  ircc  ilmt  lind  I'ldlen  across  the 
ti-ack'.  an<l  wa^  too  low  for  uic  to  get  uudcr.  I  ii;id  lo  cli(>»)>i'  between  hanging 
on  to  the  tree  or  being  ^wei)t  oil  I  he  Iiorse's  buck  T  chose  the  lre<'.  ;iud  w;is 
left,  lilce  Midiouiet's  cofliu.  >Uspeniled  belwceii  lieMXcn  iiud  e;irlli.  uiilil  luy 
fathei'  ciiuie  lo  luy  assishiiice. 

I  lier  <'Ul  \\\>  inil  i:d>  wil  li  ;in  ;txe 
piissiiig  llie  siiMie  spot,  llie  tree 
\isil»le.  thoiiirh    luerelv  showiug 


W  liile  ciiuiIkmI  ;iI  Silk>toiie  briilg<'.  uiv  I"; 
C)ii  ;i  Lli't'ci!  wattle.  :ind  1  •'»  ye:ii>  later,  while 
was  still  green  siud  llie  initials  -till  phiiidy 
as  a  seal'  on  the  bulk'. 


On    one    o('c;i-ioii     I     li;i<l    lo    ]i;ic| 
poiiii(b.    troni    I'oowohi;'    tor    |)r 
light    tree   fei-n   on   til  her  -ide  of  llie   piick  -;iddle.   ;ind   the  chest   wsis    firmly 


liicK    ;i    ia|-,uc    -ea-chest.    wei^hiu^     about      lo<* 
nine,   neai'  .lumbuuna.      I   ha<l  strai)ped    a 


64  PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING. 

secured  aei'os.-  the  top.  Willi  the  e.\cei)ti()ii  of  difficult}'  in  keepin,;^  such  a 
top-heavy  h)ad  bahiiiced,  all  went  well  until  I  got  to  the  creek  in  Mr.  Blake's 
property.  There  was  no  bridge,  and  between  two  and  three  feet  of  water 
in  tiie  creek,  and  while  struggling  to  climb  up  the  bank  the  horse  got  aliind 
foot  into  a  crabhole,  and  fell  backward  into  the  creek  wdth  the  chest  under- 
neath. The  horse  Avas  in  imminent  danger  of  drowning,  but  by  cutting  the 
strai)s  while  he  was  struggling  I  managed  to  free  him,  and  got  him  out.  I 
had  a  bad  time  getting  that  chest  out  of  the  water  on  to  the  bank,  and  a 
Avorse  cme  getting  it  on  the  horse's  back  again:  but  b}'  standing  the  horse 
along  the  bed  of  the  creek,  and  placing  two  ^mall  skids  fi-om  the  l)ank  to  the 
pack  saddle,  I  managed  to  fix  it  on  again,  and  reached  my  destination.  It 
had  been  raining  during  the  day,  but  this  fact  only  partially  helped  to  ex- 
plain the  sodden  contents  of  the  box,  AAhich  had  come  all  the  Avay  from 
England. 

I  and  my  brothers  did  the  packing  for  my  father  while  he  had  the 
Poowong  store,  our  only  other  meajis  of  delivery  being  a  sledge.  One  of  our 
most  exciting  experiences  Avas  the  sledging  of  a  bag  of  Hour  to  Mr.  Reeve's 
place  at  Xorth  PooAvong.  We  had  the  use  of  a  Hereford  bull  called  Fagan, 
that  Avas  broken  to  harness.  The  collar  Avas  a  forked  limb,  padded,  and  used 
upside  doAvn.  Fagan  was  very  tractable  under  ordinary  circumstances,  but 
if  the  sledge  got  stuck  he  A^  ould  take  over  the  reins  and  use  his  own  methods, 
and  very  often  the  driver  Avould  be  driven.  At  the  time  of  this  incident  the 
Drouin  road  Avas  not  opened,  and  there  Avas  only  a  narrow  pack  track  to 
North  PooAvong.  The  sledge  got  caught  against  a  log,  .so  Fagan  sheered  off 
to  release  it,  and  got  into  the  scrub,  and  pulled  sledge  and  Hour  until  it  got 
jannned  so  that  it  Avas  nnpossil)le  to  go  further,  and  as  his  blood  was  up.  we 
could  not  get  near  enough  to  inido  the  harness.  We  simply  had  to  leaA'e 
him  until  he  broke  himself  loose,  and  the  sledge  or  its  ashes  are  probably 
there  to  this  day.  In  the  end  Ave  had  to  pack  the  flour.  There  was  some 
excuse  for  Fagan's  Aagaries.  as  he  Avas  owned  by  a  man  Avho  did  the  pit- 
sawing  foi' Mr.  C.  Cook's  first  homestetid.  and  Avas  his  tractor  for  hauling  the 
logs  to  the  pit;  and,  though  Fagan  \va-  jxiwerfully  built  and  willing,  it  was 
little  Avonder  that  lie  developed  the  >pirit  of  retaliation,  a-  he  was  but  one 
bull  and  the  logs  were  heavy  enough  for  a  team,  and  vrhen  the  tAvo  pit- 
.sawyers  urged  him  with  sapling.^  to  do  the  impossible,  there  was  surely  some 
excuse  if  he  raised  objections. 

The   sharp    jagged    stumps    of   newly-cut    scrub    were    ii    source  of    great 
danger  to  pack  horses,  as  the  rough  nature  of  the  tracks  made  many  falls 
'  inevitable.     The  track   itself  Avas.  as  a   ride,  soft   enough  if  there  Avere  no 
stumps  to  fall  on. 

I  remember  James  Scott,  junr.,  riding  over  a  swampy  flat  a  few  A'ards 
from  our  first  home  on  the  Bass  RiAer.  Surveyors  had  left  one  of  their  thin 
sharp-pointed  sighting  pegs  made  of  gi-een  hazel,  stuck  in  the  middle  of  the 
pack  track,  which  was  feet  deep  in  slush  and  mud.  It  was  pointing  towards 
the  rider,  who  did  not  notice  it,  and  the  horse  struggling  through  the  slush: 
the  stick  penetrated  his  <-heA.  and  drove  clean  into  the  heart,  killing  him  in- 
stantlA^  Tlie  horse  Avas  a  ptU'ticularU'  good  one.  and  I  can  well  remember 
the  keen  regret  of  the  lad  Avhen  relating  his  misfortune  a  fcAV  minutes  after 
the  eAent. 

During  that  same  Winter  of  187S.  I  remember  Mr.  Charles  BIcav.  of 
WhitelaAv.  passing  our  house  along  the  same  track  leading  a  grey  pack  horse 
Avith  a  red  gin  cas'e  on  either  side  of  the  pack  saddle,  and  each  ca.'^e  contained 
a  child. 


PACK-TRACKS     ANr3     PACKING.  (i5 

Another  source  of  danger  to  pack  horses  was  falling  timber.  Where  a 
fire  had  been  through  scrub  and  killed  the  small  groAvth.  the  horse  might 
blunder  against  a  small  dry  hazel  which  had  been  killed'  a  year  or  two, 
bringing  the  Avhole  tree  dow^n,  with  disastrous  results  to  the  animal's  nerves, 
causing  it  to  indulge  in  a  series  of  acrobatic  feats,  often  resulting  in  con- 
siderable damage  being  done  to  the  contents  of  the  pack;  or,  should  it  be  a 
small  blackwood,  the  stem  would  be  sound,  but  a  shower  of  small  branches 
would  fall  on  and  around  the  horse  with  similar  results. 

A  tj'pical  packing  trip  might  be  from  Poowong  to  Jumbunna,  leaving 
at  8  or  9  a.m.  The  greater  part  of  the  distance  would  be  through  bush  and 
the  balance  through  clearings.  In  Winter  the  portion  through  the  bush 
would  be  a  long  chain  of  mud  holes,  every  step  a  hole  full  of  ^ater  with  a 
ridge  of  mud  dividing  the  holes;  so  the  journey  is  one  long  splish.  splosh, 
splish.  splosh,  with  here  and  there  an  occasional  underground  watercourse, 
W'hich  would  make  the  horse  flounder  for  half  a  chain  before  recovering  him- 
self. On  arriving  at  Jumbujnia  late  m  the  afternoon  some  tea  would  be 
obtained,  and  the  journey  back  to  Poowong  begun  astride  the  pack  saddle 
with  a  couple  of  sacks,  if  lucky,  to  lessen  the  wear  and  tear  of  the  wood  and 
iron  saddletree,  and  a  couple  of  pack  straps  hooked  on  for  stirrup  leathers. 
One  might  arrive  at  Poow-ong  at  any  hour  from  7  to  10  p.m..  according  to 
circumstances  or  luck.  An  item  not  to  be  overlooked  on  the  journey  was  the 
number  of  gates  and  sliprails  to  be  attended  to  Almost  invariably  there 
would  be  one  or  the  other  on  entering  a  clearing  from  the  bush  and  another 
at  the  other  side  of  the  clearing:  and  these  were  very  awdcward  to  handle  in 
the  dark,  and  in  the  bush  it  was  more  than  dark,  it  Avas  inky  black.  As  a 
boy  I  have  vivid  recollections  of  the  weird  and  blood-curdling  howl  of  the 
packs  of  dingoes  that  used  to  roam  about  and  molest  the  settler's  sheep. 
There  Avas  also  the  incessant  thud  of  the  wallabies,  as  they  jumped  in  the 
scrub,  the  gnuit  of  the  'possum,  the  meriy  chirrup  of  the  squirrel,  the  screech 
of  the  screech  owl.  the  mopoke's  familiar  call,  and  the  grunt  and  screech 
of  the  monkey-bear. 

All  these  sounds  Avere  familiar  to  night  travellers,  and  as  the  pace  Avas 
limited  to  tAvo  or  three  miles  an  hour,  there  Avas  nnich  time  foi-*  reflection 
on  those  things  Avhich  c(y;dd  be  heard  but  not  seen. 

Xot  the  least  interesting  nor  the  easiest  to  erase  from  llie  inciiKny  of  the 
packing  days  a\;i-  ihe  conversion  of  the  })ack  .saddk^  into  a  riding  saddle. 
Many  a  settler  had  wo  other  saddle  foi-  years,  and  if  he  had  but  one  horse  lie 
at  least  was  able  to  ride  the  pack  saddle  one  waA'  on  his  journeys.  It  was 
bettei'  than  trudging  through  the  nind  and  roughness  of  the  track,  but  one 
never  ))retended  that  riding  (»n  a  pack  saddU'  was  a  bixurious  mode  "of 
locomotion.  One  could  get  many  a  nasty  jai'  from  the  iron  saihlie-trees,  and 
with  a  cou))le  of  sack's  to  ronncl  off  the  sliai-p  edges.  a)i(I  a  coupk»  of  pack 
straps   to   serA-e   as  stirru]^s,   it    <'onhl   only    b<'   culled    tolerable.      ^ 

^ly  expei'ience  of  pack'  tracks  ilalcs  from  1n7n,  and  includes  \ai-ious 
experiences,  such  i\y:\  mail  ooy  c;iiiying  out  a  })rivate  contract  with  the 
pioneer  settlers,  and  afterwariU  taking  a  (iovei-nment  conti-act.  then  as  a 
packer  delivei'ing  goods  from  my  father's  sloi'c  at  PooAvong  to  all  parts  of 
the  district,  and  soinetinies  packinir  gf)ods  from  Di-ouin.  packing  contractors' 
and  survey  parties  to  their  vai-ious  camps.  packin<r  goods  and  camps  ta 
A'arious  road  and  ]u-ivate  clearing  contracts  canicd  out  by  my  father, 
brothers  and  myself:  as  Avell  as  paclcing  stores,  grass  seed,  etc.,  from  PooAvong 
to  AraAvata.  to  Mii-boo  South  and  (innyah  Gunyah  to  land  selected  there  i)y 
my   inotlici'.  brothc;--  and  myself:  ;ind    F  voidd   like  to  ])ay  a   tribute  to  the 


66 


PACK-TRACKS     AND     PACKING. 


l'A("KI-\"(;    CHILDREN     TO    THE     I'lCXlC 


genial  hospitality  extended  lo  travellers  of  all  classes  by  the  early  settlers  of 
South  Gippsland.  Until  the  advent  of  the  (xreat  Southern  Railway,  there 
Avas  no  place  of  acconnnodation  for  travellers  in  the  hill  country  of  South 
Gippsland.  except  at  Poowong.  Horn's  jniblichouse  in  the  bush  on  the 
Tarwin  iJiver.  near  Leongatha.  and  Leach's  publichouse  at  Mirboo  South; 
consequently  the  hospitality  of  the  })ioneers  was  severely  taxed.  Ijut  it  was 
unfailing. 

Tavo  familiar  faces  on  the  pack  tracks  in  the  early  days  Avere  those  of 
"Dick"  Atkinson,  who  f<;r  many  years  i)aclved  for  Mr.  James  Scott,  who  had 
the  first  store  at  Poowong,  and  "Pxldie"  Dixon,  who  packed  for  his  brother, 
who,  in  later  years,  had  a  store  in  the  same  township. 

Finally,  a  word  of  appreciation  of  a  class  of  men  Avho  Avere  intimately 
associated  Avith  pack  tracks  and  the  life  of  the  pioneers.  I  refer  to  the  sur- 
Aeyors.  It  is  a  Asell-knoAvn  fact  that  the  surveyors  pioneered  many  of  the 
original  pack  tracks,  and  made  many  of  them.  In  many  cases  the  pack 
tracks  folloAved  tlie  survey  lines.  In  most  cases  the  men  Avho  constituted 
the  Avorking  element  in  these  camps,  many  of  them  farmers"  sons,  Avere  of  a 
superior  class.  These  camps  Avere  A^ery  migratory,  and  might  be  in  PooAvong. 
Jiunbunna  or  Korumbtiri'a  di.-»tricts  for  a  week  oi-  two,  and  the  next  week  be 
at  Beech  Forest  or  at  Omeo.  The  surxeyor  and  the  clergyman  Avere  the  only 
professions  resident  iu  the  bush,  and  one  never  kncAv  Avhen  a  party  of  sur- 
A^eyors  Avould  apj^ear  on  the  scene  Arith  their  orderly  grou])  of  tents  and  their 
invariable  bush  kitchen  and  cook,  and  mauy  a  settler  and  packman  has  had 
good  reason  to  a]:))3reciate  the  solid  and  kindly  hos])itality  shoAvn  by  such 
men  as  Mr.  John  Lardner,  Mr.  Burbank.  Mr.  flas.  Walker.  Mr.  Thorne,  and 
later  by  the  surA'eyors  Avho  traversed  the  district  in  (juest  of  a  suitable  grade 
for  the  Great  Southern  Raihvay;  last,  but  not  least  of  AAhom  Avas  Mr.  AV. 
G.  Field,  who  Hnalh'  succeeded,  and  later  made  his  home  at  WhitelaAv. 


Scrub    Cutting. 

MR.  W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 

The  term  •'Scrub  cutting"  lijis  been  u.sed  in  South  Ciippshind  for  the  hist 
40  year.s  to  describe  the  felling  of  the  forest  timber.  It  is  applied  in  other 
parts  of  Australia  to  the  cutting  of  the  snudler  growths  of  timber,  s'uch  as 
the  mallee  scrub  in  the  Xorth  of  Victoria,  the  brigalow  and  mtilga  scrub  in 
Queenslanil.  and  the  gimlet  wood  scrub  of  AVestern  Australia,  as  well  as  the 
ti-tree  and  dogwood  scrubs;  but  to  call  the  heavy  forest  of  South  (xippsland, 
as  it  was  in  the  TO's.  scrub,  was  surely  a  misnomer,  and  to  the  uninitiated  the 
term  "'.-crub  cutting"  would  give  no  adequate  conception  of  what  was  in- 
volved in  the  oi)eration  it  ijurported  to  describe. 

Befoi'e  entering  into  a  description  of  the  methods  of  scrub  cutting 
it  might  be  interesting  lo  make  some  little  connnent  u])on  the  scub-cutters 
themselves.  In  the  earliMr  [)ioneering  stages  the  scrub-cutters  Avere  the 
pioneers  themselves.  There  were  no  roads,  neither  were  tliere  auy  names  to 
the  localities  to  induce  lal)ourers  to  come  into  the  bush,  food  supplies  were 
very  difficitlt  to  obtain  reliably,  particularly  meat,  and  man}^  Avere  the  tales 
as  to  the  source  and  quality  of  the  meat  supplied:  and  so.  perforce,  almost 
every  settler  had  to  initiate  himself  into  the  art  of  scrub-cutting — first,  as  I 
have  said,  to  clear  his  ti-ack  in.  then  to  build  his  hut  oi-  house  out  of  btish 
tiiiiljer,  all  requiriii.u.  to  be  succcs>ful.  ;ui  cxpcii  u-c  of  the  Ame- 
rican axe.  For  the  Hist  tive  to  ten  year.-  of  scUlcuuiit  ninc-UMiths 
of  the  lai'our  of  a  progi'e^sivi'  working  scitlcr  was  axcwoik.  I'er- 
ha])S  the  best  way  to  dcx-ribc  the  liaiiiin.L:  of  tluv~c  early  -ct.tlcr-^ 
to  undertake  tiic  cla>s  of  work  rc(|niic(l  of  them  a<  iiionccrs  will  be 
to  give  a  list  of  the  occui)ations  they  had  prcx  iou>ly  followed,  taking  them 
as  their  holdings  lay.  beginning  at  Poowong  aud  ending  at  dinui)imna.  First 
came  a  butcher,  then  a  town  clerk,  road  conti'actor.  family  of  school  teachers, 
minister's  .son  just  frfim  college,  innnigrant.  Bendigo  miuei'.  architect,  two 
school  teachers,  sea  cai)tain,  i)ublican"s  sons,  cMlitor  of  pa])er.  market  gardener, 
saddlvr,  three  Fii2"lish  v*arehousemen,  Ceylon  niggci'-drivci'.  -chool  tcachci-. 
brickmaker.  Dookie  College  students,  ami  so  on.  It  will  thus  be  seen  at  a 
glance  that  tlie  great  majority  of  the  (••nlic-t  -clilci-^  had  ab-olutcly  no 
fanning  ex]ierience.  uiiidi  les.s  a  knowlt'dgc  (d'  bii-h  worJ:.  to  help  them  in 
their  stu|)endou.s  undertaking,  and  only  th<.>c  who  have  lived  through  it  or 
had  an  iiilimate  l-:nov.Iedge  of  the  forest  a>  it  was  then  can  placi'  the  right 
value  on  the  pliysical  endin-ance.  doggi'd  pei'sex-erancc.  and  almost  Mind 
oi)timi.-,m  thai  characterised  the  early  pioneers:  and  one  Ims  but  lo  think 
again  of  the  c.\t  I'cnic  (lispaiity  bet  wciMi  some  of  the  occiq)at  i<»ns  merit  ioiicd  and 
the  life  in  the  liu-h  a>  it  wn-  iIhmi.  to  feel  the  nlnio>t  ■^yuq^athy  for  llio>c  who 
])ut  their  little  all  into  ;i  life  of  pioneering,  to  which  --onie  were  entirely  un- 
suit(^d.  ai'd  which  c;;u-ed  nian\'  to  'jo  iind.'r  after  \ears  (d'  struggle.  (ii|»ps- 
land  has  been  tridy  desii.'iiated  "'!'he  (ianlen  of  the  South."  .'ind  uuicli  can. 
and  probably  will,  be  written  of  the  success  nnd  i)rogress  of  successful 
pioneers,  but  what  about  tho-e  (»thers  who  have  failed^  \'olumes  could  be 
Avritten,  if  only  the  facts  could  be  unearthed,  of  the  self-saci-ifice  and  pathos 
Avhich    I'dtended    the     fnilnre    and    ultimate    downfall    of    sonu-.    though     l''>r- 


68 


SCRUB     CUTTING, 


SCIMT.    (TTTIXC 


SCRUB     CUTTING.  69 

tiinately  few.  of  the  early  settlers.  Havintr  given  a  description  of  the  various 
occupations  of  the  amateur  scrub  cutters,  a  few  words  about  the  nature  of 
the  scrub,  or  more  correctly  speaking,  the  forest,  will  not  be  out  of  place. 
AVhilst  a  bird's  eye  view  of  a  Gippsland  forest  presented  something  of  a 
monotone  to  the  eve.  a  detailed  inspection  revealed  an  endless  varietv  of 
Avoods.  shrubs,  foliage,  mossy  growths,  parasitical  plants,  and  decomposed 
vegetation.  To  the  scrub-cutter  the  primary  consideration  was  the  nature  of 
the  timber  on  which  he  Jiad  to  operate.  This,  fortunately,  was  for  the  most 
part  comparatively  soft,  though  e^en  in  this  res'pect  there  was  great  variety. 
Bluegum  and  blackwcod  were  among  the  hardest  of  the  larger  trees,  hazel 
and  wattle  being  next,  and  the  softest  woods  were  gum  saplings,  native 
orange,  and  blanket-wood,  the  latter  being  of  a  very  brittle  nature.  The 
tree-fern,  owing  to  the  peculiar  toughness  of  its  fibrous  trunk,  presented 
great  dirficulty  to  the  inexperienced  axeman,  for  whilst  most  of  the  forest 
timber  chipped  very  readily  in  response  to  the  blows  of  the  axe.  the  fern-tree 
absolutely  refused  to  do  so.  and  although  the  axe  could  be  driven  into  its 
fi1)rous  trunk  until  only  the  bald  head  was  visible,  no  chip  could  be  removed 
until  it  was  ab.-olutely  cut  clean  through  above  and  below. 

Amongst  the  driiwl^acks  common  to  all  these  forests.  ])erliaps  the  two 
worst  were  the  swordgrass  and  wire  grass.  Swordgrass,  as  its  name  implies, 
has  sharp  cutting  edges,  and  having  a  flat  and  somewhat  rigid  blade  was 
responsible  for  many  painful  cuts,  which  were  made  more  numerous  by  the 
fact  that  all  stumps  v.ere  supposed  to  be  cut  at  a  height  of  from  12'  to  18 
inches  from  the  ground,  thus  necessitating  a  continual  downward  stroke, 
causing  the  lingers  to  slide  down  the  cutting  edge  of  the  grass,  which  grew  in 
very  dense  tussocks  from  three  to  eight  feet  in  height.  Strangely  enough, 
the  young  blades.  A\hon  drawn  out  from  the  sheath,  had  a  gum-like  salve 
adhering  to  them,  which  had  healing  qiuilities,  and  was  constantly  used  by 
those  working  among  it.  AV ire-grass  was  common  to  most  of  the  forests, 
but  was  more  in  evidence  along  river  and  creek  flats,  and  climbed  up  the 
trunks  of  trees  and  shrubs  a  distance  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet.  The 
stem  was  j^erfectly  i-oiind.  and  felt  and  acted  like  a  fine  ras]).  and  as  there 
were  scarcely  any  leaves,  the  etl'ect  it  liad  u.pon  the  hands  and  arms,  par- 
ticularly in  hot  weatlier.  was  the  reverse  of  pleasant.  This  grass  would 
create  a  tangle  many  yards  in  diameter  around  the  Iruidc  of  a  nmsk  or 
sai)]ing.  and  it  often  took  a  considerable  time  to  clear  a  >pacc  ^nllicit'iitiy 
large  to  swing  an  axe,  and  there  was  also  the  dangei-  ol"  the  axclicad  getting 
entangled  in  the  meshes  overhead  during  the  swing  of  a  stroke  and  iiiMicting 
a  serious  gash  on  the  user. 

Assinning  thai  the  settler  iias  made  i\\)  his  niinel  as  to  the  site  of  his 
first  sciaib-cutting  operations,  and  llie  first  object  was  to  select  a  site  acces- 
siV)le  tf)  the  ncaj-est  p:\ck  trade,  and  on  to])  of  a  ridge  if  jiossible,  he  would 
mai-k  or  blaze  a  line  iironnd  ilie  proposed  clearing,  and  as  the  bush  was  so 
dense  that  in  most  jilaces  the  \  iew  woidd  be  i-esii-icted  to  a  few  yards,  he 
would  prf)vide  himself  with  a  comi:>ass.  and  stai'ting  from  a  point  on  a  jiack 
ti-aek  or  side  line  (as  the  sui'veyor's  lines  were  tben  termed)  wonld  take  note 
of  some  i)ai-ti(ailar  ti'ee  some  distance  off.  which  bis  compass  showed  to  be  on 
the  line  which  he  intended  to  mark.  Making  a  dii-ect  line  to  this  tree,  he 
would  strip  a  slice  of  bai'k  off'  the  front  and  bade  of  each  or.  at  least,  most 
of  the  trees  as  be  [)assed  along.  The  inside  of  th''  bark  and  the 
sap-wood  of  the  trees  being  very  white,  these  marks  oi'  idazes  — 
these  lines  wci'<'  iiivai'iably  called  blaze<l  lines — stood  out  in  bold  relief 
against  the  <lark'  l»ai-k  of  the  tnuik''-  and   the  <lull   gi-eeii  <>\'  the  luideigrowth  : 


70  SCRUB     CUTTING. 

ami  ^vhen  he  arrived  at  the  tree  first  noted,  he  would  again  take  the  compass 
and  note  some  other  tree,  and  Idaze  a  line  until  he  arrived  at  it,  and  so  on 
until   that   line   Avas   traversed   far   enough,   and   the  same  method,   with   a 
change  of  direction  according  to  the  shape  of  the  projected  clearing,  until  he 
arri\-od    back,     not     always    at     the     i)()int     he     started     from  —  the    rough 
nature    of    the    undergrowth    and    huge     logs,    and    also    the    steepness    of 
the  hills,  making  it  a  most  difficult  matter  to  arrive  at  even  a  rough  estimate 
of  distance  or  acreage.     Many  selectors  have  been  lost  or  bushed  in  the  early 
days;  in  one  instance  a  settler  was  bushed  betw'een  Korumburra  and  Leon- 
gatha   for  nearly   a   week   simply   on    account   of  the   dilliculty   of  estimating 
the  distance  travelled  in  the  forest — and  many  a  man  has  been  hopelessly 
bushed  within  a   few  hundred  yards  of  his  own  camp — so  the  use  of  the 
co)npass  was  very  general,  and  the  failure  to  carry  one  has  often  enough 
resulted  in  being  lost.     The  area  being  mai'ked  out,  the  scrul)  cutter's  first 
consideration  was  to  see  that  his  axe — the  sole  implement  required — was  in 
good  order.     In  purchasing  this  all-important  article  in  the  70"s  there  Avere 
but  two  reliable  brands  to  choose  from,  and  it  must  needs  be  one  of  these. 
Next,  it  must  be  long  and  finely  tapered  to  the  edge  of  the  blade,  as  most  of 
the  Avood  was  of  a  A'ery  soft  nature,  and  as  the  majority  of  the  axes  imported 
were  too  thick,  much  careful  clioosing  Avas'  necessary  to  secure  a  nice,  thin 
blade,  but  the  quality  of  the  steel,  as  is  always  the  case.  Avas  a  matter  that 
could  only  be  tested  by  experience  and  use — so  that  a  carefully  selected  axe 
might  cut  hundreds  of  acres  of  scrub  of  various  kinds,  or  it  may  turn  its 
edge,  or  a  gap  may  be  made  in  it  at  the  fir.st  hard  black  wood  or  gum  sapling 
it  Avas  tried  on — so  that  occasionally  a  settler  Avho  owned  a  large  area  of 
bush,  and  Avho  had  more  ready  money  than  the  aA'erage,  would  order  a  case  of 
axes,  and  thus  liaA^e  a  supply  on  Avhich  to  draAV  in  case  of  emergency,  Avhile 
his  needy  "confrere,"'  when  his  axe  tui-ned  its  edge  or  gapped,  had  to  trudge 
to  the  nearest  neighboui'  Avho  Avas  fortunate  enough  to  ])Ossess  a  grindstone. 
I  can  Avell  remember  Avhen,  35  years  ago.  ^Ir.  Leys  of  Loch  Avas  the  proud 
possessor  of  the  only  grindstone  for  miles  around,  and  how  the  settlers  from 
far  and  near  appreciated  both  his  grindstone  and  his  hospitality;  and  his 
name  reminds  me  of  an  experiment  carried  out  by  him  that  Avas  one  of  the 
most  unique  that  has  come  under  my  notice.     He  was  not  a  young  man  nor 
an  expert  axeman,  and  Avishing  to  fell  this  particular  tree,  he  bored  with  an 
auger  a  set  of  holes  completely  around  it,  eventually  by  this  method  bringing 
it  to  the  ground.     It  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  the  experiment  Avas  not 
regarded  as  a  success,  as  it  Avas  not  repeated. 

Xalurally,  therefore,  the  scrub  cutter  entertains  a  very  jealous  regard  for 
his  axe,  and  on  starting  out  to  his  day's  Avork  is  careful  to  provide  himself 
Avith  a  small  whetstone  or  oilstone  to  occasionally  rub  up  a  dull  edge,  and 
also  a  piece  of  good  strong  string  or  a  small  coil  of  copper  Avire  Avith  which 
to  repair  a  fractured  handle,  this  latter  being  perhaps  the  most  common 
source  of  trouble.  A  false  bloAv.  a  little  overstrain  in  endeavouring  to  Avedge 
over  a  tree  Avhich  is  being  felled,  or  an  extra  hard  wrench  to  remove  a  toutih 
or  refractory  chip.  maA^  cause  CA^er  so  small  a  split  in  the  handle,  and  if  this 
be  not  immediately  bound  up,  the  next  bloAv  may  split  the  handle  in  tAvo, 
Avhich  may  mean  the  loss  of  half  a  day,  as  the  axeman  Avill  certainly  have  to 
go  back  to  the  camp  and  Avith  great  care  burn  or  bore  the  broken  handle  out 
and  put  a  new  one  in,  or  perhaps  have  to  Avalk  miles  to  the  nearest  neighbour 
or  store  to  procure  a  ncAv  one,  should  he  not  have  a  spare  one  at  hand.  Much 
could  be  written  about  the  A'arying  qualities  of  axehandles  as  Avell  as  axes. 
The  thickness  of  the  handle  Avas  a  constant  source  of  trouble.     Most  of  the 


SCRUB     CUTTING.  71 

im]';Oi-te(l  handles  were  made  too  thick,  so  those  who  o-ot  first  selection  out  of 
a  ''onsiamnent  were  very  careful  to  choose  those  that  were  thinnest,  and 
particular  preference  was  jjiven  to  those  that  had  the  o-rain  runnino-  throuirh 
the  widest  way  rather  than  across,  thus  obviating  the  risk  of  splittinir  when 
releasing  the  axe  if  tight  in  a  tree.  Those  who  were  unfortunate  enough  to 
have  to  take  the  culls,  and  country  storekeepers  very  often  ran  short — they 
A'ery  probably  would  not  sell  the  poor  ones  if  they  did  not — would  spend  a 
whole  evening,  perhaps,  scraping  an  axehandle  down  to  the  size  that  suited 
them  ^vith  bits  of  glass,  a  wood  rasp,  or  a  piece  of  sandpaper;  the  two  latter. 
hoAvever.  were  for  the  most  part  luxuries,  and  the  pieces  of  glass  were  the 
common  medium  of  reduction,  and  an  evening  spent  in  this  Avay  would  be 
amply  repaid  by  the  increased  pleasure  of  working  with  a  handle  ])ro])erly 
proportioned,  and  after  a  man  has  used  a  handle — the  same  applies  to  the  axe 
— for  a  considerable  time,  if  anything  happens  to  it,  he  will  experience  the 
keenest  regret  if  he  has  to  procure  a  new  one  and  go  through  the  breaking- 
in  process  again.  It  was  quite  common  to  see  a  handle  with  six  or  eight 
inches  of  its  length,  and  perhaps  in  several  different  places,  bound  with 
string.  Avaxed  thread,  copper  Avire.  pieces  or  strips  of  tin.  and  occasionally, 
in  an  emergency,  a  bushman  Avould  have  to  '"rob  Peter  to  pav  Paul"  l>v 
remoA'ing  his  bootlaces  to  re])air  a  fracture. 

So.  equipi)ed  with  axe.  st(me.  and  string,  he  leaves  his  camp,  dad  in 
moleskin  trousers,  held  up  mostly  by  a  leather  belt,  as  braces  did  not 
gi\e  free  enough  i:>lay  to  the  shordders  for  axework,  leggings,  slouch  felt 
hat.  flannel  i'udershirt.  and  cotton  top-shirt — the  latter  Avill  soon  be  hung  up 
on  a  limb  whh  the  billy  of  tea  and  the  hmch — and  a  strong  jiair  of  boots, 
studded  from  heel  to  toe  with  square-headed  spri.ti,^  >(an(liiiu  oui  (luilc  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  from  the  leather,  so  put  to  prevent  slipping  when  walking 
along  the  rotten,  slippei-y  timber  amongst  the  undergroAvth.  the  green  or 
barked  fallen  timl)er.  or  the  greasy,  Avet  soil  on  the  hillsides.  This  class  of 
boot  has  never  I)een  superseded,  and  is  still  ])opulai-  over  most  ]>arts  of 
(Ti])]islan(].  iniiniN  only  tlu'  sprigs  under  the  Avaist  ol"  the  l)()ot. 

Tlie  lirst  difficulty  tli:it  presented  itself  Avas  how  to  get  an  o])ening  into 
Avhicb  to  fall  ibc  llrst  tree-.  The  usual  method  wa>  to  >larl  in  a  gully  or  criH'k. 
and  Itegin  l>y  lopping,  or  cutting,  the  heads  of  the  tree-ferns,  then  any 
small  scrub  such  as  hazel,  musk,  or  dogwood.  These  would  probably  fall 
around  largei-  trees  such  as  blackAvood.  wattles  and  gums,  and  would  create 
a  tangle  that  would  have  lo  Kt  {■Icarcd  away  to  get  at  llic  ticcs  themselves, 
but  an  Oldening  had  to  be  made.  TIk'ii  the  next  largest  tr^'cs.  perhajis  black- 
woo(l  and  wattles,  would  be  di'opped  into  the  most  op(>n  space  axailablc. 
and  so  by  continually  workiiiii'  l)ack'.  a  long  narrow  opening  would  be  made 
along  the  gully  or  ricck' :  then  by  cai-efully  dro])ping  the  heads  of  cacli  tree 
into  the  opening  made,  a  lotigei-  face  was  obtained  to  work'  on.  and  by 
Avorking  away  IVom  liie  -tailing  poini  there  would  soon  be  no  need  lo  let  any 
trees  fall  into  tlie  standing  .scrub,  one  of  tlie  most  im|)ortant  things  to  be 
avoided  in  xiiib-cutting.  Occasionally  a  liee  with  a  Ncry  decided  lean 
backwai'ds  will  break'  the  rule,  or  an  uiie.\|)ected  gust  of  wind  will  force  a 
ti'ee  back,  but   d  is  always  a  thing  to  be  avoided  if  possilih  . 

In  \\liat  was  known  as  lia/ei  sciiili  lliere  wa--  n<tl  n)iieli  limber  excepting 
the  large  gum  ti'ces  left  standing  after  ibe  -einli  \\;i~  cut;  sonielimes  ;i  few 
of  the  larger  blaekwoods  or  an  occasioii;il  laru,e  wattle  would  be  left,  but 
in  --apling  country  maii\-  of  llic  settlers,  whether  they  cut  the  scrub  them- 
sehes.  Ol'  let    it   by  contract,  oidy  cut    u|i  to  a  certain  (bamcter.  some  only  to 


7-2  SCRUB     CUTTING. 

9  inches,  other^s  up  to  2  feet  G  inches,  and  in  rare  cases  cutting  everything, 
including  the  hirgest  saplings.  The  practice  of  cutting  u[)  to  9  inches  or  a 
foot  in  diameter  was  soon  abandoned,  as  too  much  timber  was  left  standing, 
tlius  shading  and  preventing  the  cut  scrub  from  drying,  and  making  also  a 
terrible  litter  of  bark  and  small  branches  upon  the  new  grass  in  the  following 
year,  and  in  a  ver}'  few  years  the  spars  left  standing  would  uproot  and  fall 
with  the  heavy  winds,  and  require  a  second  lot  of  j^icking  up.  Consequently, 
it  soon  became  the  rule  to  cut  scrub  to  about  2  feet  in  diameter,  whicli 
usually  included  most  of  the  standing  timber  in  spar  country.  The  first  eight 
to  ten  years  of  experience  in  scrub-cutting  and  picking-up  was  the  dearest  the 
early  settlers  had  to  buy.  because  it  took  so  many  years  of  solid  toil  to  cope 
with  troubles  which  arose  solelv  through  inexperience  and  errors  of  judg- 
ment. 

As  the  scrub-cutting  progressed,  the  process  known  as  "nicking"  became 
popular.  This  was  d(me  by  cutting  a  small  notch  front  and  back  in  each  tree; 
in  hazels  and  small  growths,  just  a  few  blows  front  and  back  would  bei 
.sufficient,  and  in  gum  saplings,  blackwoods,  or  wattles,  a  ■".scarf."'  say,  a  third 
through  front  and  back,  and  so  on.  One,  two  or  a  number  of  men  may  work 
for  hours,  and  then,  when  a  large  area  is  ready,  some  tree  with  good,  spread- 
ing top  is  started  off,  perhaps  near  the  top  of  a  hill,  and  this,  crashing  into 
the  nicked  trees  in  front,  soon  becomes  a  vast,  crashing,  smashing,  splintering, 
roaring  and  thundering  avalanche  of  falling  timber !  This  method  of  felling 
scrub  was  a  distinct  advantage  o^er  the  old  one  of  cutting  the  trees  down 
singly,  as  the  timber  was  comi:)elled  by  the  impelling  force  from  behind  to 
fall  all  in  one  direction,  and  therefore  lay  pai-allel  and  tightly  packed  on 
the  ground  for  burning.  It  is  really  wonderful  what  good  work  was  ac- 
"complished  in  this  way.  and  as  it  recpiired  both  skill  and  judgment  to 
successfully  negotiate  a  good  "fall."  it  would,  naturally,  evoke  a  feeling  of 
satisfaction  in  the  heart  of  nn  exi^ert  axeman  when  a  large  area  of  scrub 
had  been  laid  low  in  this  maimer,  especially  when  the  grinding,  crashing  and 
creaking  with  ^\hich  the  operation  culminates,  can  be  heard  by  his  neigh- 
bours for  miles  around. 

The  wind  is  a  faetoi-  which  has  always  to  be  reckoned  with.  The  old 
adage  which  is  applied  to  fire,  that  "it  is  a  good  servant,  but  a  bad  master." 
applies  equally  to  the  wind  in  scrub-cutting.  There  is,  perhaps,  nothing 
more  disappointing  to  an  experienced  scrub-cutter  after  he  has  l-een  ])atiently 
nicking  for  some  hours,  and  may  be  just  ready  to  start  otl  the  fall,  than  for 
a  gust  of  Avind  from  an  opposite  direction  to  start  backwards  a  tree  that  is 
somewhere  in  the  front  rank,  and  then  back  comes  the  whole  mass,  tearing 
and  splintering  thi'ough  uncut  scrub,  hanging  up  in  trees  that  refuse  to 
break,  and  making  an  indescribable  tangle  and  mess  that  Avill  hamper  his 
progress  for  the  rest  of  the  day. 

With  a  good,  strong  wind  in  a  faAourable  direction,  much  labour  is 
sa^ed  in  spar  country,  as  the  extra  strain  consideralily  lessens  the  amount  of 
wood  that  has  to  be  severed. 

In  spar  countrv  thei-e  was  usually  not  many  large  trees,  though  there 
was  ample  evidence  that  there  had  been  in  the  past,  as  the  old  dry  stumps 
and  many  fallen  trees  still  remained.  On  the  steep  hillsides  many  of  thes'e 
old  trees  lay  along  the  sides  of  the  hills,  and  when  the  spars  were  felled, 
being  green  and  slippery,  they  would  slide  over  the  logs  "like  gi-eased  light- 
ning,"' and  Avhen  the  top  struck  the  bottom  of  the  oppo>ite  hill,  it  would 
sna])  in  two  and  ram  feet  deep  into  the  loose  soil. 


SCRUB     CUTTING.  73 

]M:inY  of  the  narrow  ridiies.  which  liad  been  studded  with  spars.  Avoiild 
have  scarcel}^  any  lying  about  after  scrub-cutting,  whilst  the  gullies  on 
either  side  would  be  full  of  them.  The  fact  that  in  many  cases  the  giillies 
cost  £4  to  pick-up.  up  to  2  feet  0  inches  in  diameter,  Avhile  the  hillsides  and 
ridges  only  cost  from  £1  to  30/-  per  acre,  speaks  for  itself. 

Spar  country  was  the  heaviest  class  of  country  to  ck'ar  in  South  (Tii)ps- 
land.  and  called  for  the  greatest  endurance.  It  was  incessant  slogging  in  a 
hot.  humid  atmosphere,  such  as  was  usual  in  September,  October  and  Xovem- 
ber.  the  months  when  srcrub-cutting  was  usually  done.  It  can  easily  be 
imagined  that  the  scrub-cutter,  toiling  on  the  floor  of  a  forest  800  feet  in 
heioht.  with  the  sun  pouring  straight  down  through  the  small  open  clearing 
he  has  already  carved  out.  Avith  scarcely  a  breath  of  wind  penetrating  to  the 
lower  level  where  he  is  working,  must  be  in  a  veritable  oven.  There  was, 
perhaps,  no  work  all  down  through  the  pioneering  that  required  so  much 
endurance  as  scrub-cutting.  Swinging  a  five-  or  six-pound  axe  from  day- 
light lO  dark  was'  as  common  then  as  the  eight-hoiu'  Government  stroke  is 
to-dav.  V>ut  though  it  Avas  hard  work,  it  was  clean  and  healthy  work,  and 
one  could  not  jierspire  for  five  hours  without  acquiring  an  abnormal  ap- 
petite, so  the  plainest  of  fare  was  eaten  by  the  ''new  chiim"  as  well  as  the 
"awful  Australian"  with  much  more  relish  than  a  banquet  would  be  by  some 
of  their  city  critics.  The  billy-can  loomed  up  large  in  the  domestic  economy, 
and  great  care  was  exercised  in  securing  its  safety  during  the  day — -hunff  up 
on  a  limb  with  tlie  lunch,  well  back,  out  of  the  reach  of  falling  scrub — but, 
alas !  the  unexpected  sometimes  will  occur.  The  interested  axeman  unwit- 
tingly works  back  in  close  proximity  to  the  larder,  and  a  ti-ee  falls  backwards, 
carryino-  others  with  it.  until  at  length  the  tea-billy  and  the  lunch  become, 
figuratively  si)eaking.  "knocked  into  a  cocked  hat,"  and  it  is  astonishing 
how  unshapely  the  "William"  can  be  without  interfering  with  its  capacity 
for  producing  the  bnshman's  elixir  of  life,  "billy  tea." 

To  the  casual  observer  the  occupation  of  scrub-cutting  might  easily 
appear  a  most  prosaic  and  uninteresting  business,  but  in  the  pioneering  stage 
of  South  (Tip])sland's  history,  every  day  spent  in  opening  up  the  bush,  indeed 
everv  hour  meant  the  opening  up  of  a  new  paire  of  natural  history:  every 
fresh  step  exposed  to  the  intelliirent  axeman  an  area  that  had  never  before 
come  under  the  obserAation  of  civilised  man.  and  that  pei-ha]is  foi-  hundreds 
of  years  had  not  been  penetrated  even  by  primitive  man;  for  it  must  bei 
remembei'cd  that  the  surveyors  only  traversed  the  boundaries  of  each  selec- 
tion, and  theii"  lines  were  only  cleared  sufficiently  to  sight  the  pegs  with  their 
instruments. 

That  the  Austi-alian  savages'  had  at  some  time  roamed  ovei-  this  hilly 
cou.nti'v  is  evidenced  bv  the  number  of  stone  axes  that  have  been  picked  up 
here.  I  have  picked  up  several  between  Nyora  and  Mii-boo,  but  it  is  doubtful 
whether  the  natives  evei-  fi-ecnientc^d  tbe  hillv  country  of  South  Gii^jisland 
since  the  heavy  forest  growth  ap|)eared.  The  Messrs.  "Kccles  Bros.,  who  arc 
amongst  the  earliest  settlers,  discovei-ed  in  tli(>  bnsli  on  their  ))roperty  whilst 
scrub-culling,  a  set  of  blacK'smillrs  tools,  exidently  left  many  years  before, 
and  they  ar-'  of  opinion  that  Ihev  had  been  left  by  "VAHiitelaw  when  he  cut 
the  original  track  through.  The  Avriter  and  Mr.  W.  Eccles,  under  Mi-.  A.  L. 
Avers,  a  suiveyor  who  sur^eved  the  original  coal  leases  at  Coal  Creek. 
disr-oAcred.  Avhile  running  these  surA'ey  lines,  an  old,  overgrown  road, 
evidentlv  cleared  perhar)s  years  prcA'iously.  a  shaft  10  or  12  feet  deep,  uoav 
Icnowii  ;is  flic  Si  rzclccisi  coal  mine,  wliidi   |»ici'('cd  a  seam  of  coal,  the  onlcrop 


74  SCRUB     CUTTING. 

of  whk'.h  showed  in  tlu;  y,ully  a  cluiiu  lower  down,  and  also  several 
sawm  timber  pegs  that  had  e\-idently  been  nsed  to  peg  out  the 
lease.-^.  These  pegs  had  originally  been  painted  white,  but  had  rotted 
off  at  the  surface  of  the  ground.  Mr.  Ayers  had  V)een  told  by  a  ]\Ir.  Harrison 
Nvhoui  he  knew  that  he  (Mr.  ITar^ison^  had  been  through  the  Outtrim  district 
in  the  OO's.  had  made  a  narroAv  dray  track  thrf'Ugh  the  bush,  and  had  taken 
a  waggon  in  from  the  Kilcunda  side,  and  had  found  coal:  but  owing  to  the 
rough  and  liilly  nature  of  the  country,  and  no  prospect  of  transport  either 
1a-  rail  or  boat,  the  ]>roject  was  abandoned. 

Mr.  John  Western,  of  Arawatta.  while  scrub-cutting  on  his  property, 
di.^covered  an  old,  rusty  pick  on  the  banks  of  Euby  Creek,  probably  left 
years  previously  by  some  prospector  during  the  period  of  the  Stocln''ard 
Creek  and   Turtojrs  Creek  diggings. 

T  remember,  over  25  years  ago.  near  Tiu-ton's  Creek  coming  across  the 
remain;  of  a  billiard  table  when  travelling  throusrh  the  bush.  The  young 
hazel  scrub  had  grown  isp  asfain.  nuite  obliteratino;  the  site  of  the  old  settle- 
ment, giving  some  slight  idea  of  the  rapid  p-rowth  of  the  bush  in  its  virgin 
state  and  when  the  rainfall  was  heavier  than  at  present.  So  every  ti^ace 
of  the  handiwork  of  man,  and  this  was  almost  exclusively  restricted  to 
evidences  of  axework.  was  a  matter  of  special  interest  to  a  pioneer  scrub- 
cutter,  and  would  .afford  ample  scope  for  reflection  as  to  the  How?  "V^Hien? 
and  "Why?  of  its  existence. 

In  the  heavy  lilackbutt  spar  country  a  style  of  scrub-cutting,  known  as 
"bashing"  or  ''Wild-dog  flash,"  was  adopted  after  a  few  years.  It  was  done 
by  cutting  a  number  of  spars  about  half-way  through  at  the  back,  and  when 
.sufficient  for  a  good  fall  had  been  "scarfed,"  one  or  two  with  good,  .■spreading 
tops  Avould  be  let  down  from  the  rear,  and  the  weight  and  impetus  would 
compel  those  in  front  to  go  forward,  until  the  strain  became  so  great  that 
tlicy  would  start  to  s])lit  upwards  from  the  cut  at  the  back,  and  would  thus 
split  up  from  ten  to  thirty  feet  and  then  snap  off.  the  split  portion  riding 
on  the  highest  point  luitil  the  limbs  struck  the  ground.  Avhen.  if  on  level 
groTuul.  the  split  trunk  would  kick  back  and  fall  with  a  thud  to  the  ground. 
If  on  a  hillside,  it  would  naturally  slip  headlong  down  the  side  with  the 
falling  mass.  Much  annoyance  and  danger  was  caused  by  an  occasional  tree 
resisting  or  escaping  the  pressure,  necessitating  a  special  trip  by  the  axeman 
to  finish  cuttiuir  it.  climl)ing  through  a  terrible  tangle,  recjuiring  considerable 
clearing  to  allow  an  axe  to  be  swung,  and  difficult  to  get  out  of  when  the  tree 
started  to  fall,  and  the  tree,  when  it  struck  the  send)  vvhich  had  already  been 
felled,  would  be  a  source  of  danger.  Very  often,  if  there  is  a  spar  Avithin 
reach,  an  attempt  Avould  be  made  to  fall  it  into  the  one  left  standing  and  thus 
bring  it  down,  and  some  exceedingly  clever  work  in  this  Avay  can  be  done  by 
a  smart  axeman.  Should  the  tree  aimed  at  be  fairly  tougli  near  the  cut.  the 
falling  trees  mscy  strip  off  all  its  limlis  and  leaAe  it  standing,  a  bare  pole:  in 
tills  case  there  is  no  option  but  to  go  out  and  chop  it  through  to  the  last 
spliiiter.  The  method  of  "•bashing"'  has  advantages  and  disadvantages — the 
■former  being  that  the  scrub  is  much  easier  and  cheaper  to  cut.  and  aaIicu  the 
burn  is  over,  the  heaviest  end  of  the  tree  is  split  in  half,  and  the  heaviest 
half  is  left  standing,  attached  to  the  ^tuni]).  The  disadvantage  is  mainly  in 
appearance:  instead  of  all  the  stumps  presenting  a  neat  and  even  appearance 
after  the  biuTi.  they  are  an  irregular  mass  of  black  slalis.  varying  in  height 
from  two  to  thirty  feet.  As  these  stumps  could  not  be  economically  grubbed 
under  ten  to  tAventy  years,  it  is  apparent  that  an  innnen-e  saving  in  labour 


SCRUB     CUTTING. 


.\    I'.k;    iiMor;  s<'akk(»m>ki)    to   ir.oft. 


76  SCRUB     CUTTING. 

jUiU,-,!  lia\e  accnied  from  the  fact  that  the  selector  was  relieved  of  the 
necessity  of  handling  the  heaviest  portion  of  the  tree  for  that  nnmber  of 
years',  and  l)y  the  time  the  stump  Avas  ready  for  grubbing,  tlie  cost  of  clearing 
the  slab  attached  to  it  would  be  reduced  to  a  minimum.  Though  this 
practice  did  leave  the  stumps  somewhat  unsightly,  it  was  very  popular  in 
some  districts,  and  to  this  day  many  of  these  long,  black  slabs  are  to  be  seen 
as  monuments  to  its  use. 

In  spar  country  particularly,  it  was  vei-y  necessary  to  cut  and  fall  the 
timber  parallel  with  the  gidlies,  and  to  avoid  throwing  it  across  the  big, 
fallen  trees,  the  object  being  to  get  the  timber  as  near  to  the  ground  and  as 
close  together  as  possible.  In  some  contracts  a  special  clause  was  inserted, 
that  all  spars  crossing,  large  logs  had  to  be  lopped,  and,  as  a  rule,  it  was 
specified  that  the  stumps  of  trees  must  not  be  left  higher  than  about  18 
inches,  and,  in  s'ome  contracts,  not  more  than  one  foot  above  the  natural 
surface  of  the  ground.  These  conditions  were  very  easih^  taken  advantage 
of,  as  the  fallen  scrub  so  completely  covered  up  the  stumps  and  the  surface 
of  the  ground  that,  generally  speaking,  the  owner  of  the  property  was  ver}' 
much  at  the  mercy  of  the  contractor,  and  much  the  same  applied  when  it  was 
stipulated  that  all  timber  up  to  a  certain  diameter  had  to  be  felled,  as  was 
often  done  in  the  spar  country  in  the  earlier  times.  Usually,  the  clause 
varied  from  one  to  two  feet  in  diameter,  measuring  at  three  feet  from  the 
surface  of  the  ground,  but,  as  just  now  stated,  the  tangle  of  logs  and  branches 
might  be  anything  from  3  or  4  feet  to  10  feet  in  height,  and  it  would  be  an 
undertaking  to  scramble  over  a  hundred  acres  of  cut  scrub  to  measure  eA'ery 
guui  spar  that  had  been  left,  especially  if  only  up  to  one  foot  in  diameter 
had  been  s])ecified.  I  haxe  known  of  isolated  instances  where  scrub-cutters 
haA^e  been  compelled  to  go  back  over  their  work  and  cut  out  trees  that  haA^e 
been  left  undersized,  but  the  consensus  of  opinion  on  the  general  efficiency 
of  the  Avork  done  during  the  40  years  of  toil  and  sAveat  that  it  has  taken  to 
subdue  the  Gippslancl  forests'  is  that  no  class  of  men  have  rendered  more  loyal 
and  uncomplaining  serAice  under  the  most  adA^erse  circumstances  than  did 
the  sci-ul)-cutters.  A  proportion  of  the  early  selectors  Avere  men  without 
means  Avho  Avere  glad  to  Avork  for  those  neighbours  who  could  employ  them, 
and  Avhen  they  had  earned  sufficient  to  lay  in  a  few  months'  scores  for  them- 
selves, would  start  scrub-cutting  on  their  OAvn  property.  Hundreds  and 
hundreds  of  acres  of  the  bush  have  been  cut  single-handed  by  men  who  haA^e 
had  to  live  alone  and  Avork  in  solitude,  and  only  the  man  who  has  experienced 
it  can  realise  to  the  full  the  aAvful  silence  and  solitude  of  a  Avet  Winter  in  a 
Gippsland  foresl — the  short  days.  Avith  the  incessant  drizzling  rain,  every- 
thing in  the  bush  dank  and  dripping,  the  long  nights.  Avith  occasionally  the 
dismal  hoAvl  of  a  pack  of  dingoes  or  the  Aveird  screech  of  a  she-bear,  as 
if  especially  provided  to  add  a  creepiness  to  the  otherwise  black  solitude  of 
the  forest. 

Some  of  the  pioneer  scrub-cutters  of  this  forest  Avere  neAv-chum  lads 
from  England,  Scotland  or  Ireland,  and  all  honour  is  due  to  these  men  for 
their  splendid  grit  and  courage  in  adapting  themselves  to  conditions  that 
Avere  totally  neAv  to  them.  The  recently  imported  immigrants  from  the 
British  Isles,  Avhen  they  come  to  Gippsland  to-day.  are  usually  informed  that 
the  conditions  here  are  worse  than  is  usual  in  other  parts  of  Victoria,  and 
perhaps  there  is  some  truth  in  the  statement.  But,  if  this  be  so,  Avhat  must 
the  conditions  of  30  years  ago  haA'e  been  to  -those  other  immigrants  Avho 
faced  the  unbi-okon  o^reen  area.  Avith  the  nearest  raihvaA'  station  at  Dande- 


SCRUB     CUTTING.  77 

nong,  v.aixes  15/-  to  £1  per  week  and  "tucker,"  and  usually  ten  hours'  work 
per  da3\ 

After  some  years,  small  gangs  of  contracting  scrub-cutters  became  es- 
tablished and  took  the  larger  areas  of  this  Avork.  and  like  most  occupations  in 
which  manual  labour  is  the  chief  factor,  they  were  drawn  from  widely 
different  classes  of  society,  with,  of  course,  the  usual  proportion  doing  "hard 
labour"  on  account  of  their  "Bacchanalian*"  tendencies.  Two  instances  of 
this  class  I  remember  in  the  TO"s;  one  was  a  Cambridge  University  student, 
who  cut  scrub  for  years  in  the  Poowong  district,  and  was  a  splendid  worker, 
but  spent  all  he  earned  in  drink.  I  was  camped  in  the  same  hut  with  him 
and  several  other  men  when,  in  a  drinking  bout,  he  went  out  in  the  middle 
of  the  night  and  never  returned.  The  scrub  was  searched  for  a  week  without 
result,  and  ten  days  later  his  body  came  to  the  surface  of  Mr.  Biirchett's 
dam.  The  otlier  was  the  nephew  of  an  English  Baronet,  and  still  another 
was  an  ex-policeman,  who  was  dismissed  from  the  force  during  the  depreda- 
tions of  the  Kelly  gang.  One  might  well  wonder  how  some  of  these  metn 
took  to  scrul)-cutting — perhaps  the  isolation  stiggested  a  change  of  environ- 
ment ;  but,  unfortunately,  where  "tucker"*  can  be  transported,  so  also  can 
''•^XXXi"  and  ''three  star,"'  and  although  the  local  publican  would  3iot 
transport  a  chair  or  a  piano  to  a  scrub-cutter's  domicile  for  love  or  money, 
it  was  comparatively  easy  to  pack  beef,  fiour.  and  whisky,  and  so  the  bus'h 
offered  no  solution  of  the  drink  curse  to  these  unfortunate  victims  of  the 
habit :  and  they  would  cut  scrul)  like  slaves  for  three  months,  and  drink  and 
suffer  for  a  few  days  as  a  grand  result  of  their  labours. 

Perhaps  the  extremely  heavy  rainfall  of  over  50  inches  per  annum,  most 
of  which  fell  l)etween  April  and  Xovember,  was  the  chief  factor  in  the 
troubles  which  befel  the  scrub-cutter.  Drizzling  rain  for  weeks  at  a  time,  and 
no  other  occuj^ation  to  lill  in  the  time — generally  an  energetic  man  would 
keep  going  unless  the  rain  was  exceptionally  heavy,  and  there  was  little 
danger  of  cold,  the  work  being  strenuous  and  incessant;  warmth  came  natu- 
rally. The  disagreeable  part  of  the  business  was  coming  back  to  camp,  wet 
through,  and  having  to  light  a  fire  and  start  cooking:  but  the  pleasure  of 
changing  clammy,  soaking  moleskins  for  warm,  woollen  clothes  has  a  won- 
derfully soothing  efi'ect.  and  an  hour  si)ent  over  a  genial  ('amji  fire,  studying 
the  i^ossibilities  of  a  kerosene  tin  l>ucket.  a  billy,  and  a  camp-oven,  will 
produce  results,  the  pleasing  nature  of  which  will  have  Ix'cn  luldcd  to  rather 
than  otherwise  l)y  the  discomforts  of  the  work  and  weatlier. 

Almost  exei-y  selector  had  some  time  oi'  othei-  to  face  the  dillicultics 
of  felling  the  large  blue  gum.  A\hite  gum.  oi-  blackbutt  tree>.  The  first  hut. 
or.  pei-haps.  a  two-i-oomed  house  would  rc'iuire  palingv  and  shingles,  and  as 
a  rule  it  was  for  splitting  i)urj)oses  that  the  first  attemj)t  was  made.  If  the 
operator  exercised  good  judgment  in  the  selection  of  a  tree,  so  as  to  get  a 
free  splitter,  the  job  would  iiol  perha|)>  be  ;i  hard  one.  luit  the  nxcrage  selector 
will  admit  that  he  hsis  had  many  i)itter  disappointment.--  and  nnicli  wasted 
labour  through  want  of  kuowledge  in  this  matter  of  the  choice  of  trees 
for  splitting  pur|)oses.  The  method  of  cutting  these  trees  down  was  for  some 
years  the  same  as  cutting  scrul) :  but  :is  the  spurs  n<'ar  the  grouiul  were  some- 
times abuoriually  lai'ge.  and  the  wood  oji  the  spurs  mucli  tougher  than.  say. 
8  or  10  feet  higher  u|).  sen ff'nh ling  was  use(l,  so  as  to  be  able  to  cut  above  the 
sjiur.-.  Four  foi-kcd  >ticl-:s  would  be  ei'eeted  arouiul  the  tvoo.  and  eross-pieces 
placed  in  the  foik>.  and  a  few  slabs  placed  ncross  these  hitter  for  a  staging. 

Another  de\  ice  wms  to  ui;il<e  a  laddei-  with  ;i  widi  >|)read  on  the  lower 
part,    with    ;i    phitform    ne;ir    the    to|>    with    stays    underneath.     This    mado 


78 


SCRUB     CUTTING. 


a  very  good  stage  on  Avhicli  to  cut  trees  at  from  8  to  1-2  feet  from  the 
grouiul.  The  most  recent  and  popuUir  method  of  cutting  hirge  trees,  how- 
e\er,  is  by  using  a  springboard.  This  is  a  slab  about  1^  to  2  inches  thick 
and  8  inches  wide  and  about  5  feet  long,  inserted  into  a  notcli  cut  into  the  tree 
about  5  inches  deep.  Having  driven  the  slab  tightly  into  the  notch,  the  axe- 
man momits  upon  the  slab,  cuts  another  notch,  say  3  feet  higher  up,  and  inserts 
another  slab,  and  so  on,  until  he  gets  uj)  to  ihe  rounded  l)arrel  of  the  stem  of 
the  tree.  Some  axemen  are  quite  expert  with  the.se  springboards:  one  man  in 
the  Foster  district  has  a  set  of  .springboards  half  way  up  a  very  large  bluegirm 
tree,  and  has  signitied  his  intention  of  completing  the  stairway  to  the  top  of  the 
tree. 


LYia;i;iui)s   most   ix   stimi' 


"  Picking  Up." 

MR.  W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 

Perhaps  the  mo.st  aiixiou.s  time  of  the  year  for  the  early  pioneer  lay  be- 
tween the  finish  of  the  scrub-cntting.  usually  about  Christmas  time,  and  the 
time  for  "the  burn."    For  the  first  ten  or  fifteen  years  of  South  Gippsland's 
history  the  yearly  "burn"   Avas  the   all-important  event  of  the  year  to  the 
selector.     After  months  of  incessant  toil  with  the  axe  with  anything  from  20 
to  100  acres  of  scrub  awaiting-  a  favourable  day  for  burning,  how  eagerly  and 
anxiously  did  he  A^eigh  the  chances  of  each  hot   day  after  the  middle    of 
January.     With  a  solid  wall  of  timber  fiom  60  to  300  feet  high,  the  wind 
had  not  much  chance  to  penetrate  and  lend  a  hand  in  drying  up  the  sodden 
and  rotten  vegetation,  which  lay  next  to  and  mixed  up  with  the  surface  soil, 
which  was  covered  over  by  many  feet  deep  of  timber,  and  although  the  sun 
poured  down  in  the  hot  Summer  months  with  a  fierce  heat,  still  there  Avere 
some  years  when  there  wa^  not  a  sulHcient  number  of  consecutive  dry  days 
to  ensure  a   good  clean  burn,  and  I  have  known  several  3'ears  when  there 
was  nor  one  really  good  burning  day  during  the  whole  of  the  Summer,  and 
many  settlers,  rather  than  risfk  a  bad  burn,  have  kept  putting  off  burning, 
in  the  hope  of  eventually  getting  a  favourable  day.  and  finally  have  had  to 
postpone  until  the  following  Summer.     This,  of  course,  entailed  serious  lo.ss. 
as  tiiere  Avas  the  loss  of  the  area  cut  for  the  whole  seastm.  and  the  carrying 
forward  for  anotlier  year  also  meant  additional  labour,  as  undergrowth,  such 
as  dogwood,  wiregrass.  swordgrass.  musk  and  firewood  made  a  prolific  growth 
in  the  following  Spring,  and  it  was  necessary  to  iiave  this  new  growth  shished 
down  several  chains  Avide  all  round  the  fringe  of  the  scrub  to  ensure  getting 
the  fire  to  traAel.  as  most  of  the  leaA^es  and  papei"-bark.  Avhich  existed  the  fiist 
year,  and  Avhich  was  such  an   important  factor  in  carrying  the  fire,  would 
have  disajjpeared.  and  uidess  there  is  a  good  strong  hot  wind,  it  is  difficult 
to  fire  a  burn  the  second  year.     Tender  normal  conditions,  however,  a   wevk 
or  ten  days  of  dry  weather  in  the  middle  ,)f  Jamia.rv  wonld  be  am|)l(>  reason 
foi-    the    settler    becoming   restless,    at    dinner-time    particularly.      lie    knew 
that,  soon  after  one  o'clock,  if  any  of  hi.-  neighbours  Avere  lighting,  the  smoke 
Avould  be  seen  as  evidence:  and,  even  .should  the  Avind  carry  the  smoke  in  a 
direction  that  precluded  the  pos.sibility  of  seeing  it,  the  roar  of  the  fire  would 
proclaim  the  fact  that  ''So-and-so"s  burn"  is  alight.     U])on  the  question    of 
'"binning  day."   there   Avas  an   unAvrittcn    law    tiiai    was   rnrely   transgressed, 
during  the  ]nonetring  days  at  any  rate,  and  it   was  that  avIumi  a  settler  made 
11))  his  mind  Xa  burn  lie  hastened  to  his  immediate  neighbours  and  informed 
them  of  the  fact.     The  necessity  for  this  arose  from  the  fact  that   foi-  many 
year.s  each  .settler  Avould  have  a  bui'ii.  small  or  large  as  the  case  might   l>c, 
each  year.     Sometimes  the  areas  avouM   be    adjoining,    in    which    ca.se    the 
OAvners  Avould  consult  together:  or.  if"  a   little  distance  apart,  there  might  l)e 
some  ri.sk.  if  one  only  wanted  to  'nii  n.  ili.it  the  other  would  have  to  take  steps 
to  light  his  also,  should  a   change    of    wind    or    othei-    circumstances    ari.se, 
causing  his  burn   to  be   in   danger  <»f   l)eing  lit   accidentally.      Having  beem 
notified,  he  Avould  stay  handy,  and  if  there  was  much  I'isk  of  ignition,  would 
l)roceed  to  fire  his  own  burn  befoiv  it  got    too    late    in    the    «lay.    it    being 
generally  rccogni.sed  thai   to  ensure  a  good  burn  of  anv  considerable  area  of 


80  PICKING     UP. 

scrub  it  should  be  lighted  not  later  thau  3  p.m..  and  generally  between  1  and 
2  p.m.  was  the  usual  time.  Occasionally  a  good  burn  has  been  secured  in  hazel 
country  when  burnt  accidentalh^  at  niglit  time,  but  such  a  circumstance  would 
be  very  exceptional. 

Lighting  a  "burn'"'  is  quite  an  exciting  operation,  and  if  a  large  area  had 
to  be  lired  the  neighbours  would  be  requisitioned  to  help.  They  would  be 
told  o&.  either  singly  or  in  pairs,  to  the  various  corners  or  angles,  and  each, 
at  a  signal — generally  the  first  smoke — would  start  to  light;  and  by  using 
leaves,  paper-bark  or  other  such  material,  start  fires,  say  every  half-chain, 
until  the  line  was  completed,  and  the  point  reached  where  the  next  man  had 
started  lighting:  and  by  this  means  a  complete  circle  of  fire  made  around  the 
'•burn.-'  Paper-bark  from  the  blackbutt  and  gluegum  trees  was  generally 
used  for  torches,  and  as  it  was  ^ery  plentiful,  light,  and  in  long  lengths, 
coidd  be  doubled  up  into  four  or  five  thicknesess,  and  one  torch  would  last 
long  enough  to  make  perhaps  a  dozen  ditierent  lights.  It  presumably  got 
its  name  from  the  fact  that  it  Avas  very  thin,  and  nearly  always  curled  around 
like  a  roll  of  paper,  and  this  roll  was  the  natural  home  of  the  numberless 
big.  sprawling,  hairy -legged  tarantulas  so  common  to  the  bush.  Naturally, 
when  one  lield  the  end  of  the  bundle  of  l)ark  in  the  fire  to  light  it,  these 
tarantulas  would  skurry  along  through  the  pipe  and  up  the  bare  arm  of  the 
person  holding  the  bark — not  in  a  spirit  of  resentment  or  retaliation,  but 
anywhere  to  get  away  from  the  smoke  and  fire.  These  spiders  were  my  pet 
aversion ;  y^t  I  have  known  and  seen  men  pick  up  a  tarantula  with  a  body 
as  large  as  a  small  teaspoon,  and  long  hairy  legs  that  would  easily  spread 
over  the  palm  of  a  good  sized  hand,  and  allow  it  to  crawl  up  his  arms,  around 
his  neck,  and  o\er  his  face.  Ugh  !  the  horror  of  it  makes  me  feel  creej^y 
while  I  wi'ite,  even  in  my  old  age.  and.  plentiful  as  they  were,  particularly  at 
burning  time.  I  could  never  get  used  to  them. 

Although  nearly  4:0  years  have  ela])Sed  since  my  first  experience  of  scrub 
lighting,  yet  some  of  the  incidents  were  so  burned  in  upon  my  memory  and 
my  fingers,  that  they  are  almost  as  vivid  to-day  as  they  were  U]:)on  that 
occasion. 

Once  the  fire  had  encircled  the  "Ijurn."  nothing  more  could  be  done  to 
assist  the  oi^eration.  and  no  one  thought  of  starting  any  other  job  while  the 
result  was  in  the  balance,  and  all  hands  settled  down  to  watch,  drink  tea  and 
speculate  on  the  possibilities — and  the  progj-ess  of  a  scrub-fire  in  South  Gipps- 
land  is  a  spectacle  that  for  av  ful  grandeur  beggars  descri]:»tion.  I  htxxe  seen 
many  pyrotechnical  displays  by  world  famous  men,  and  I  have  also  around 
the  coasts  of  Australia  and  Xew  Zealand  experienced  tempests  of  wind  and 
water,  such  as  I  hope  never  to  experience  again,  but  I  have  never  3'et  seen 
anything  to  equal  the  warring  of  the  elements  of  nre  and  wind  as  Inis  so  often 
been  seen  by  the  pioneers  of  South  Gippsland  during  the  progress,  of  a  scrub- 
fire  or  "biu'n."'  What  an  endless  variety  of  colour  is  there  in  the  rolling, 
tumbling,  surging  and  seething  masses  of  smoke:  and  what  a  diversity  of 
sound,  with  the  roar  of  the  wind  developed  by  the  fire  I 

The  roar  of  the  fire  itself,  the  incessant  ci-ackling  of  the  wire  and  sword- 
grass,  the  fizz  and  sphuter  of  the  gas  in  the  green  twigs,  the  occasional  loud 
report  of  a  bursting  sandstone  boulder,  the  prolonged  crashing  of  a  big  green 
falling  tree,  the  heaA^-  thud  of  a  huge  dry  stinnp,  the  belching  roar  of  a  great 
hollow  dry  tree  that  is  pumping  volumes  of  flame  and  smoke  from  a  dozen 
or  more  portholes  'oetween  its  root  and  the  topmost  limit — and  over  all  and 


PICKING    UP. 


81 


Showiiii 


A    NEW    I'.rUX. 

il    witli    wliite   .isl'.   ;iii(l    strewn    with    siiais   (Iciiiulc: 
hiMiiches     l)v     the     tire. 


eveiytliing.  as  far  as  the  ove  can  reach,  that  weird,  eerie,  livid,  yellowis'h- 
gi'een  hue.  giving  all  around  a  most  unearthly  ai)pearance.  the  face  of  the 
sun  appearing  like  a  great  dull  copper  disc — would  suggest  to  the  uninitiated 
that  the  last  days  were  at  hand. 

These  conditions,  however,  were  but  transient,  and  dej^endent  largely 
upon  the  number  of  fires  in  the  h)cality.  If  there  were  not  many,  a  cool 
breeze  would  clear  the  atmosi)here  probably  before  dai"k.  and  if  the  scrub 
burnt  l)e  mostly  hazel,  a  fair  idea  of  the  result  coidd  be  obtained  two  or  thi-ee 
hour.s  after  the  fire  had  been  started;  but  spar  country  took  some  hour>  longer 
befoi-e  it  could  safelv  be  travelled  o\cr 


'J'he  term  "picking  u])"  in  itself  does  not  explain  the  work  it  is  expected 
to  describe.  After  the  bui-ning  of  the  scrub,  as  ilescribed.  all  the  operations 
of  stacking  the  fallen  limber  tliat  remains  after  the  "burn"  is  included  under 
the  term  "picking  up";  whether  the  work  is  simply  stacking  the  small  ends 
and  pieces  usually  left  after  a  hazel  sci-ub  ''burn.''  and  which  may  be  cleared 
up  to  a  diameter  of  •)  inches  or  a  foot,  and  woi-tli  anything  from  10/-  to  £1 
per  acre;  or  heavy  spar  counti-y.  where  there  ha\e  been  no  large  green  stand- 
ing trees,  and  whei'e  all  the  sjiais  have  been  felled,  and  the  '■|)icl<ing  up"  is  to 
include  eveiything  in  the  shape  of  rimber  excepting  the  standing  stumps, 
•aim]  which  may  co^t  anything  from  £2  to  tO  per  acre.  AA'hen  the  work  was 
let  by  contiact.  and  included  burning  off  the  stacks  of  timbci-  which  had  been 
"picked  np."  the  contract  was  specified  as  "picking  \\\)  and  bui-ning  oft'." 
Natmally,  as  the  years  passed  by  and  the  wf)od  became  dryer  and  lighter,  and 
the  stumps  rotted  and  were  more  easily  removefl,  the  work  became  very  much 


82  PICKING     UP. 

eaisier.  until  iiowaduys.  unless  one  travels  into  East  (iippsland.  it  is  scarcely 
possible  to  realise  the  difiieulties  that  confronted  those  who  undertook  the 
clearing  of  the  burnt  bush  in  its  earliest  stages. 

For  the  first  year  or  two  the  picking  up  done  by  the  great  majority  of 
the  pioneer  settlers  was  done  wholly  by  hand,  and  it  must  also  be  remembered 
that  the  timber  they  were  dealing  with  had.  from  tAvo  to  four  months  pre- 
viously, been  entirely  green,  and  AAliile  this  fact  made  the  axcAvork  cojisider- 
ably  easier  than  if  it  had  been  dry,  it  also  meant  that,  oAving  to  the  excessiA'e 
Aveight  of  the  green  timber,  it  had  to  be  cut  into  very  much  shorter  lengths, 
thus  rendering  the  axework  a  A'ery  important  part  in  the  operation.  The 
nature  of  the  original  scrub,  of  coiu'se,  determined  the  class  of  Avork  involved 
in  the  picking-up.  On  the  riA'er  or  creek  flats  and  gullies  the  job  Avas  generally 
a  very  heavy  one,  the  timber  usually  being  composed  of  heavA'  giini  spars, 
Avattles  from  one  to  tAvo  feet  in  diameter.  blackAvoods  up  to  2ft.  6in.  through, 
nuisk,  hazel  and  other  scrub  groAvths.  Flat  ground  Avas  usually  cut  earlj-  in 
the  Spring,  so  as  to  alloAV  the  heavy  spars  tijne  to  dry;  and  as  a  rule  the  lieaA-y 
rains  and  underground  moisture  produced  a  iieaAy  groAvth  of  green  wire- 
grass  over  the  tangled  mass  of  cut  scrub,  and  if  the  burn  did  not  turn  out  to 
be  a  good  one,  considerable  patclies  might  he  left  unbin-nt.  and  these  avouIcI 
be  the  first  to  receive  attention  Avhen  picking  up  started. 

As  Avith  scrub-cutting,  the  axe  Avas  the  first  consideration,  and  it  was 
just  as  important  that  it  should  be  a  good  one  and  in  good  order,  as  the  wood 
Avould  be  tougher  than  when  felled,  and  everything  being  charred  made  it 
necessary  to  pay  great  attentioii  to  the  edge  of  the  axe.  (xenerally,  if  a 
number  of  men  Avere  engaged  in  j^icking  up,  one  or  two  Avould  start  "'lopping'' 
or  chopping  the  timber  into  movable  lengths,  AA'hilst  the  others  Avould  folloAV 
up  stacking:  or  all  hands  Avould  chop  for  an  hour  or  so,  and  then  go  back 
and  heap  Avhat  had  been  cut.  A  favourite  method,  and  one  that  proved  very 
satisfactoi'v  in  the  earlier  years,  Avhen  the  rainfall  Avas  much  heavier.  Avas 
for  all  hands  to  lop  on  Avet  days,  and  stack  Avhen  it  Avas  fine.  If  the  "picking 
up"  Avere  done  by  contract,  there  Avould  have  been  an  immense  loss  of  time  if 
men  had  to  stop  in  camp  on  account  of  AACt  Aveather;  and  in  some  cases  the 
contractors  Avere  settlers  themselves,  Avho  Avere  glad  to  get  outside  work  to 
"keep  the  pot  boiling,"'  and  as  lopping  Avas  a  clean  job,  and  no  matter  hoAv 
cold  or  Avet  the  Aveather  might  be.  he  would  be  a  lazy  man  Avho  could  not) 
keep  himself  more  than  Avarm  at  this  class  of  work.  The  great  bugbear  of 
the  much-maligned  Gippslaiul  Winter  Avas  the  incessant  drizzle,  raining 
incessantly  for  daA's,  kee]:)ing  everything  sodden  and  soaking,  yet  not  raining 
heavily  enough  to  keep  an  able  and  Avilling  Avorker  inside.  These  Avere  the 
days  that  a  great  part  of  the  early  settlers  employed  in  cutting  the  timber  into 
suitable  lengths  for  handling.  Lopping  Avas  a  distinctly  different  operation 
to  that  of  the  city  man.  who.  for  the  sake  of  his  digestion,  and  for  the  sake 
of  peace  in  his  domestic  circle,  undertakes  to  convert  one  piece  of  fircAvood 
into  several.  In  the  latter  case.  99  out  of  eAery  100  Avill  stand  Avell  aAvay 
from  the  object  of  their  attentions,  and  Avith  huge  bashing  bloAvs  Avill  infiict 
an  incision  that  would  make  a  good  bushman  squint,  and  produce  chips  so 
small  and  ugly  that  they  Avould  scarcely  Inn-n.  A  great  many  of  the  early 
settlers  attacked  the  Gippsland  forest  Avith  just  about  as  much  knoAvledge  of 
axework,  and  not  all  of  them,  even  after  '20  years  of  experience,  made  good 
axemen :  but  none  Avould  l^e  many  hours  at  lopping  before  experience  proved 
to  them  that  the  quickest  and  most  approved  method  of  cutting  a  log  in 
tAAo.  l)e  it  great  or  small,  is  t(»  stand  on  top  and  cut  half  through  on  one 
side,  and  then  cut  tlie  other  side  until  the  fii'st  cut  was  met.     Probablv  if    a 


PICKING     UP.  S.S 

hiDidred  iio\ices  were  ffiven  an  axe  each  and  put  to  cnt  a  loo.  say  one  foot  in 
diameter,  not  one  of  them  Avoukl  start  b}'  standing  on  top  of  the  log:  hut 
experience  leaches. 

Along  the  steep  gullies  lopping  was  a  dangerous  job.  even  to  an  ex- 
perienced axeman.  Many  of  the  spars  would  span  a  gully  at  a  height  of 
10.  20.  oi-  perhaps  80  feet  from  the  groinid,  and  it  was  neither  an  eas}^  nor  a 
safe  matter  to  cut  these  into  lengths.  It  ^Yas  quite  simple  to  cut  half  or  three- 
quarters  through  the  spar  in  a  numbei-  of  places;  but  it  was  another  matter  to 
stand  on  top  and  cut  it  in  two  when  it  at  last  snaps  off  Avith  a  report  like  a 
rifle  shot,  and  falls  to  the  ground  with  a  thud  and  a  jerk  that  would  send  the 
axeman  headlong  if  he  remained  standing  ujjon  it  when  once  it  started  to 
fall.  So.  at  the  first  warning  crack,  throwing  the  axe  away,  he  jumps  for  the 
clearest  spot,  snatching  closely  the  top  end  which  he  has  just  cut  otf,  as  this 
will  in  all  probability,  when  it  reaches  the  ground,  start  to  slide  down  the 
hill  until  it  reaches  the  gully.  This  is  also  a  danger  that  is  always  present 
when  lopping  along  steep  hillsides,  as  at  any  time  when  a  log  is  cut  oti'  it  is 
liable  to  start  slipping  endAvays,  and  if  lying  across  another  spar  will  gain 
tremendous  impetus  before  it  reaches  the  gully  below.  Some  hillsides  were 
so  steep  that  it  Avas  almost  impossible  to  stand  on  the  spars  owing  to  the 
acute  angle  at  which  ihey  were  lying,  and  in  such  places  it  was  customary  to 
make  a  couple  of  notches  on  top  of  the  spar  for  footholds  to  avoid  slii)ping. 
although  where  this  was  necessary  there  Avas  ahvays  the  risk  already  men- 
tioned of  the  log  starting  oil  downhill  immediately  it  Avas  severed. 

The  ditference  l.-etAvcen  the  amount  of  axework  necessary  to  lop  an  acre 
for  picking  up  and  that  required  to  cnt  down  the  same  area  of  green  forest 
doe."-  not  appear  to  the  castuil  obser\er.  A  man  may  start  out  in  the  morning 
and  cut  down  an  acre  of  scrub.  Here  he  has  only  to  cut  each  tree  or  bush 
through  or  partly  through,  and  he  proceeds  to  the  next  one:  and  in  hiving 
loAv  an  acre  of  bush  in  the  day  he  has  made  a  considerable  show .  and  ha>  had 
an  element  of  sport  and  i)lenty  of  noise  and  variety  in  tiie  operation  to  which 
the  busli  itself  has  contributed:  but  the  loi)iier.  the  picker-uj) — Ids  is  incessant 
slogging.  Xo  other  Avord  can  >t>  Avell  describe  this  class  of  axework.  Whore 
the  scrub-cutter  has  to  cut  the  s])ar  once  to  fell  it.  the  lopper  has  to  cut  it 
eight  or  ten  times  to  enable  the  pickeis  up  to  stack  it  ()!'  cour-c.  in  dealing 
Avith  this  sp'Av  conntry  T  am  treating  it  as  the  selectors  had  to  coix'  with  it  '20 
or  30  years  agi».  mid  it  is  safe  to  say  that  consideral)ly  more  than  half  of 
South  (iii)psland  (•oini)i"ised  heavy  spar  country:  and  the  great  (ih-^tnclc  in 
picking  uj)  aiid  cleariuii'  tlien  was  the  fact  that  the  -tiinii)-  (d'  all  iln'  -iiiib 
and  bush  that  had  l)een  felled  were  green  and  solid  and  so  numerous  that  .the 
use  of  horses  oi-  ])rdlocks  for  hauling  was  for  yeai's  out  of  the  (|ues(ion.  In 
fact,  in  lool^iug  ba.clc  ovev  the  earlier  vtai-  it  >eems  marvellous  that  then'  were 
not  many  more  accidents  to  both  man  aiui  heast  in  the  picking  uj)  of  the  many 
thousands  of  acres  ot  bn>li  acd  the  eonstrnctioii  nf  tlie  liinidredv  ol'  miles  of 
chock  and  log  fdicing.  the  mali  i'ial>  I'or  wliicli  had  lo  be  "snigged""  up  hill 
and  down  dah-  tiirom-li  a  \eri!;iitle  lalivrinili  <<\'  •-Innip--  ami  loiis  and  holes'. 
This  network  of  stumi)s  jiisl  ai»onl  doubled  the  amount  ol"  axework  that  would 
otherAvise  have  been  required  whether  for  haidingoi-  nian-handlinii':  b»r  wiiile 
two  or  three  men  might  ea>ily  roll  a  si)ar  10  feet  long  and  a  foot  to  two  leet 
in  thickness  over  the  surlaee  of  the  gronnd  to  a  stack  (d'  logs,  the  same  number 
of  men  Avould  not  be  able  to  lilt  ,i  Inii  a  (piariei'  llie  >i/e  omt  a  >tnin|)  a  foot 
high.  In  this  res]K'ct  the  axeman  (,r  lopper  conid  ~a\e  an  inmien-e  amount  of 
labour  both  for  himself  and  foi'  (he  pickers-np  wiio  billowed  him  by  using 
judgment   and   oi-ganisiuL''  ability    In     the    constiaict  ion     (d'    the    ^taclc'-:     for. 


84  PICKING     UP. 

aliliouiiii  the  axeinaii  does  not  necessiirily  mnlce  the  heaps  himself,  yet  hy  the 
way  he  cuts  tlie  timber  into  lengths,  he  indicates  where  he  intends  they 
should  be  made.  For  instance,  a  couple  ol"  llea^■y  spars  may  be  riding  across 
a  large  log:  instead  of  cutting  them  into  short  lengths,  he  would  cut  them 
so  that  there  might  be  twenty  feet  on  either  side  of  the  log.  "When  the  stackers 
come  along  the}'  would  balajice  and  swing  these  around  until  they  fall  parallel 
along  the  large  log,  thus  saving  a  lot  of  axework.  and  helping  to  reduce  the 
larger  tree.  The  picking-uij  contractor,  in  dealing  Avith  spar  country,  found 
it  much  more  difficult  to  get  competent  loppers  than  men  to  stack.  The 
lopper  must  necessarily  be  a  good  axeman,  and  the  man  Avho  could  lop  for 
eight  or  ten  hours  a  day  with  an  axe  uj)  to  six  pounds  in  weight  required  a 
physique  and  constitution  that  at  once  placed  him  well  above  the  average  of 
his  fellows. 

It  will  perhaps  surprise  many  i)eople  to  know  that  the  saw  was  very 
little  used  in  land  clearing  during  the  first  twenty  years  of  pioneer  ex- 
perience. In  dealing  with  the  large  forest  trees  for  building  and  fencing 
purposes,  the  crosscut  saw  was,  of  course,  in  constant  use,  both  for  felling  and 
for  cutting  timber  into  lengths  for  splitting:  but  for  clearing,  either  by  con- 
tract or  otherwise,  the  axe  Avas  almost  universally  employed. 

HaA'ing  lopped  the  area  proposed  to  be  picked  up.  or  a  portion  of  it, 
the  business  of  stacking  would  be  next  proceeded  with,  and  at  this  work,  in 
contrast  to  lopping,  employment  could  be  found  in  some  way  or  other  for  anj" 
man,  so  long  as  he  is  willing  to  AAork  and  has  a  measure  of  strength  to  put 
into  it :  and  in  describing  the  work  of  picking  up  it  will  make  the  description 
more  intelligil)le  if  taken  from  the  poinr  of  view  of  a  picking-up  contractor. 
Assuming  that  the  lo]ipers  have  got  a  start,  they  Avill  first  take  those  parts 
that  have  to  l)e  stacked  and  burned  first,  so  as  to  make  use  of  the  warmest 
weathei-.  These  Avill  be  the  patches  of  scrub  that  the  burn  has  missed:  here 
the  ends  of  logs  will  be  cut  oil'  where  they  ])rotrude  from  the  unburnt  patches, 
and  the  picking-up  team  Avill  stack  all  timber  handy  around  the  edge  of  the 
patch  in  such  a  way  that  a  continuous  heaj)  is  made  completely  around  it.  and 
if  this  is  done  in  the  early  Autumn,  say  in  ^larch  or  early  in  April,  by 
choosing  a  warm  day  Avith  a  good  strong  Avind,  and  lighting  these  heaps  about 
one  or  tAvo  o'clock  at  intervals  of  about  80  feet,  a  ])atch  of  half  an  acre  or 
several  acres  may  be  burnt  A'ery  successfully:  and  if  the  Avork  is  folloAved  up 
and  the  remaining  timber  stacked  and  burnt  Avhile  it  is  still  hot.  there  is  a 
great  saving  of  labour.  If  a  patch  of  this  kind  only  partially  burns,  tlie 
same  ]5rocess  repeated  reduces  the  area  until  the  Avhole  is  burned  and  cleared. 
If  the  "burn'"  has  been  a  bad  one,  there  Avill  be  parts  of  the  scrub  only  par- 
tially burned  or  singed,  peihaps  just  the  bark  and  leaves  burned,  leaving  all 
or  most  of  the  timb.er  Avith  the  branches  and  limbs  to  be  cleared.  These  parts 
Avill  re<|uire  to  l)e  done  Avhile  the  Aveather  is  Avarm.  as  the  liml)s  and  branches 
being  all  shapes  make  it  difficult  to  build  into  com]5ftct  heaps  that  Avill  burn 
in  anything  but  hot  Aveather.  As  a  general  rule,  the  flats'  Avere  the  Avorst  to 
burn,  and  it  Avas  here  that  there  Avas  the  greatest  difficulty  in  stacking.  As 
there  was  no  fall  in  the  land  the  timber  had  all  to  be  lifted  and  carried  or 
rolled  to  the  heaps.  There  Avas  also  the  disadvantage  that  the  timber  on  the 
flats  Avas  invariably  the  poorest  bui-ning  Avood.  and  many  of  the  fallen  trees 
were  Avaterlogged  and  sodden.  If  a  contractor  had  to  pick  up  and  burn  off 
eA'erything  up  to  tAvo  feet  in  diameter,  his  aim  Avould  be  to  make  stacks  Avhere 
the  greatest  quantity  of  the  largest  spars  and  logs  up  to  this  size  could  be 
got  to  each  other,  getting  the  largest  logs  together  first  if  possible,  it  being 
A'ery  important  that  the  heavier  logs  should  be  as  near  together  and  the  end 


PICKING     UP. 


85 


I'ICKING    T'I> 


as  even  as  possible  when  slacked.  Tlie  man  who  does  the  h)ppin<j;"  contrihiites 
largely  to  the  success  or  otherwise  of  this  part  of  the  stacking.  In  getting  the 
logs  together  where  the  work  is  all  man-handling,  the  next  tool  reciuired, 
after  the  indispensable  axe,  is  a  hand-spike,  one  for  each  man;  then  two  or 
three  skids  10  or  12  feel  long  are  recjnired  on  which  to  roll  the  large  spars 
o^er  intervening  stum])s  on  to  the  toj)  of  the  heap.  Some  were  fortunate 
enough  to  possess  iron  crowbai's  fiom  their  earliest  pioneering  days;  but.  for 
the  most  ])art.  the  Moodc  n  hands])ik'es  \\ere  tlie  more  connnon.  It  may  seem 
at  this  clay  somewhat  incredible,  l)Ut  it  is  nevei'theles^  :i  fact,  that  many 
thousands  of  acres  of  the  heaviest  timlxT  w;i<  picked  up  without  e\('ii  an 
iron  crowbar — just  the  axe,  handspike  and  an  old  liic-siioxei. 

After  the  Hal.-  had  Ik-cii  dealt  with,  the  next  in  importance  would  be 
the  gidlies,  and  the-e  ha\e  been  by  far  the  most  expensive  clearing  in  (iipps- 
laiul,  as  the  timber,  when  felled  on  the  hillsides,  particuiai-jy  the  large  gum 
spars,  would  slide  down,  .snap  otl'  at  the  head,  and  ram  feet  deep  into  tho 
hill  at  the  oppo.s'ite  side  of  the  creek  or  gully.  Many  .^electors  picked  up  a 
chain  or  Iavo  on  either  side  of  the  gullies,  years  before  they  did  the  i-idge^,  on 
account  of  the  great  danger  to  .stock  tJu-ough  getting  jammed  or  stuck 
between  logs.  As  an  instance  of  this.  I  know  of  a  paddock  of  40  acres  which 
was  fairly  steep,  and  had  everything  cut  down,  whi(  h  j)roved  a  veritable  death- 
trap. 10  cows  out  of  a  hei-d  of  -I'-)  being  lost,  although  the  gra.ss  was  good. 

If  the  gullies  ai-e  nai'iow  :it  the  botloni.  and  llic  tree  .stumj)S  ha\('  been 
cut  rea.sonably  low,  making  the  heaps  i.^  compaiatively  easy,  as  the  stumps 
make  the  chief  difficult  v.    Often  nnu-h  labour  would  be  saved,  once  the  timber 


S(!  PICKING     UP. 

hiiiti'  in  the  gully  i.-^  .^truialitenecl  and  the  heap  started,  by  placing  a  couple  of 
skids  from  the  top  of  the  heap  to  the  side  of,  the  hill,  and  by  using  judgment 
in  starting  each  log  rolling  to  the  hea]).  the  largest  ^par^  could  l)e  >tacke(l  \Yith 
very  little  diiliculty. 

The^e  gully  heaps  burn  the  best  owing  to  the  fact  that  as  they  burn  the 
timber  falls  together  by  graA*itation.  and  is  also  very  easily  rolled  together, 
next  morning.  Another  advantage  is  that  the  gully  heaps  are  continuous,  and 
leave  no  burnt  ends  to  be  put  together,  as  happens  Avhere  the  heaps  are  scat- 
tered and  more  numerous.  In  making  a  heap  the  first  consideration  is 
position:  the  ui)per  side  of  a  log  lying  horizontally  along  a  hillside  or  a 
hollow  in  the  ground  being  preferred  as  assisting  stoking  operations  after 
the  heap  was  burned  dov  n.  Then  tlie  heaAiest  logs  should  be  stacked  first,  as 
soon  as  the  waj^  is  sufficientl}^  cleared,  and  they  should  be  stacked  with  the 
ends  as  even  as  possible,  for  it  is  the  ends  that  protrude  from  the  heaps  that 
give  most  trouble  when  re-stacking  next  day.  When  the  largei-  logs  have  been 
got  together,  the  smaller  ones  are  stacked  into  any  spaces,  more  particularly 
in  the  ends,  and.  lastly,  all  the  small  pieces,  roots  and  chips  are  stacked  on 
each  end:  this  last  job  falling  to  the  inexperienced  hand,  who  would  ])robablY 
be  in  the  way  at  hea\y  logging.  His  job.  Ivowever.  makes  all  the  difference 
between  good  and  bad  results.  If  the  ends  are  well  packed  up.  the  fire  will 
carry  otit  around  the  ends  of  the  heavy  logs,  and  they  will  thus  render  down 
evenly  and  fall  together.  If  not  well  packed  at  the  ends,  the  heap  will  burn 
clean  out  in  the  middle,  and  the  ends  will  remain  the  same  size  as  when 
stacked.  When  building  heaps  on  the  hillsides,  gi^eat  care  must  be  exercised 
as  the  logs  are  being  piled  up  lest  with  too  much  impetus  one  should  roll 
overboard  aiid  liecomc  stranded  by  itself,  perhaps  against  a  stump,  in  such 
a  way  that  will  give  no  end  of  trouble  in  getting  it  to  another  heap.  In  spar 
country,  especially  if  the  burn  has  been  a  pcw^)r  one.  the  number  of  heaps  per 
acre.  Avhen  all  the  timber  has  been  stacked,  would  be  almost  incredible. 

If  the  weather  is  dry,  and  partictilarly  if  there  is  a  good  wind,  the  heaps 
stacked  during  the  day  wouk!  l^e  fired  in  the  evening.  When  it  is  intended 
to  burn  a  considerable  number  of  stacks,  one  here  and  there  wotdd  be  lit  about 
3  o'clock  m  the  afternoon,  and  by  about  5  o'clock  these  would  be  biu-ned  down 
sufficiently  to  allow  a  man  to  collect,  with  an  old  long-handled  shovel,  burning 
charcoal  to  start  other  heaps  by  placing  a  shovel  full  on  top  of  each  stack. 
This  would,  in  the  course  of  a  couple  of  hours,  create  a  study  in  pyrotechnics 
that  would  make  the  eyes  of  a  moving-picture  man  Avater.  The  operator 
himself  will  assuredly  shed  more  tears  than  he  bargained  for.  and  although 
with  his  day's  Avork  among  the  sooty  logs,  he  Avill  be  as  black  as  any  Afghan, 
yet  by  the  time  he  has  been  firing  for  a  couple  of  hours  and  mingling  his 
tears  Avith  charcoal  and  dust,  both  his  appearance  and  feelings  would  beggar 
description.  To  those  Avho  had  done  the  picking  up,  hoAvever.  the  burning 
off  Avas  an  intensely  interesting  operation.  Just  hoAv  much  of  those  heaps 
disappeared  in  smoke  or  Avas  left  in  ashes,  and  hoAv  much  remained  to  be  re- 
stacked,  Avas  the  all-important  point :  and  the  team,  Avhen  they  had  finished 
lighting  u]),  retire  to  the  cam))  for  supper,  discussing  the  pros  and  cons:  and 
in  the  intei'val  preceding  this  meal  have  perhaps  the  mosi:  enjoyable  feAv 
moments  of  the  '24  hours,  Avhen  they  retire  to  the  creek  to  wash.  Stripped 
to  the  waist,  it  will  take  a  considerable  time  to  get  right  doAvn  to  the  original 
man:  but  when  you  do  get  him,  it's  really  Avorth  getting  absolutely  black  to 
experience  the  pleasure  of  feeling  white  again.  Mirrors  are  generally  Avant- 
ing  Avhere  the  ])icker-up  performs  his  ablutions,  and  a  novice  Avill  certainh'' 
have  no  idea  hoAv  black  he  is.  and  after  siA'ine  the  usual  attention  to  his 


PICKING     UP.  87 

fi'ontis'piece.  Avitli  perhaps  a  little  extra  to  make  sure,  the  result  will  more  than 
likely  be  simply  ludicrous — cheelis,  forehead  and  chin  ghastly  white  in  con- 
trast with  the  eyes,  sides  of  nose,  ears  and  neck,  which  remain  nearly  jet 
black.  He  Avill  surely  get  laughed  at.  and  will  go  back  to  the  creek'  and 
make  sure  of  it  next  time,  and  in  all  probability  will  return  oidy  one  degree 
better.  Xot  that,  after  all.  it  will  make  much  difference  unless  he  change 
every  stitch  of  clothing,  which  he  is  not  likeh'  to  do.  as  in  all  probability  he 
will  be  going  around  the  heaps  to  poke  them  together  after  supper.  So.  as 
s'oon  as  his  hands  rest  upon  his  pants  or  shirt,  they  will  immediately  receive 
the  trade  mark  of  his  calling,  and  his  experience  of  absolute  cleanliness  will 
be  but  as  a  dream. 

Should  the  team,  although  tired  enough  with  the  day's  heavy  lifting,  be 
energetic,  an  adjournment  would  be  made  after  supper  to  go  arouiul  the 
fires.  Avhere  an  hour  or  two  sjjent  in  putting  them  together,  when  they  are 
about  three-parts  burnt  out.  will  make  a  A\onderfui  difference  in  the  amount 
of  labour  required  to  re-stack  on  the  foUoAving  day.  If  the  logs,  in  a  stack 
which  has  been  reduced  to  say  half  a  dozen,  be  quite  hot  but  nearly  out,  they 
will,  on  being  poked  together,  blaze  up  immediately,  and  in  the  morning,  per- 
haps, only  a  few  small  ends  may  be  left.  In  the  whole  of  the  work  there  is 
pei-hap?  no  time  spent  more  profitably  than  in  stoking  the  fires  at  this  stage. 
Often  enough,  if  a  considerable  area  has  been  stacked  waiting  for  a  dry  day 
to  burn,  they  Avould  be  lit  in  the  morning,  so  as  to  enable  some  of  the  heaps 
to  be  poked  together  during  the  day.  The  day  following  the  burning  of 
the  heaps  the  first  job  Avould  be  to  go  round  the  smouldering  heaj^s  and  re- 
stack  them,  reducing  the  number,  wherever  possible,  by  carrying  the  ends  to 
another  heap.  Tliis  was,  perhaps,  of  all  the  Avork  the  pioneer  engaged  in,  the 
most  enervating.  Xone  too  fresh  on  account  of  the  previous  night's  stoking, 
the  hot  stiffing  atmosphere  among  the  smouldering  fires,  walking  on  hot  ashes 
which  are  lying  on  top  of  steaming  moist  ^oil,  and  handling  wood  that  is  all 
charred,  hot,  and  a  great  deal  of  it  burning,  made  this  i)ai-t  of  the  woi-k  very 
trying.  The  charcoal  on  the  log-;  causes  the  skin  on  tlie  ))oints  of  the  fingers 
to  wear  so  thin  that  they  ai)peared  to  have  just  a  mere  film  left,  and  this 
"would  often  crack  and  become  vevy  painful  when  stoking  up  the  hot  burning 
timber.  It  was  very  necessary  when  starting  to  stolce  u]:)  in  the  morning,  to 
note  the  direction  of  the  wind.  other\Ais('  tl.c  >ni()l\('  miglit  give  one  a  bad 
time  before  the  job  was  finished. 

Bluegum  and  bhickwood  were  ihe  Ix'^t  bui-iiiiig  of  the  laigci-  1inil)ei>.  auil 
blackbutt  the  Avorst — waterlogged  blackbutt  is  incredibly  hard  to  bnin.  I 
once  had  a  contract  to  clear  00  acres  at  £8/ir)/-  per  acre  in  \*HU.  and  there 
Avas  one  log  in  particular  on  a  flat  that  had  got  waterlogged.  It  was  within 
100  Awards  of  the  camp,  and  hundreds  of  tons  of  spais  wvw  burned  on  it. 
dragged  from  near  and  far.  Blackl)Utl  spnis  "Jft.  ()in.  in  (iiametei-  were 
stacked  and  l)urned  and  i-educed  until  only  the  sodden  hearts  wcic  left,  and 
these  Avere  stacked  again  closely,  ami  would  burn  foi-  an  hour  or  two  and 
then  go  bla-'k'  onl  :  that  lica])  lasted  fdi-  months:  in  fiwt.  it  was  one  of  the  last 
to  go. 

During  the  last  15  A'eai-s  the  method  of  clearing  has  become  entirely 
different:  the  green  timber  has  eitliei-  'lisiippeai'eil  or  i-  (U".n\.  the  stumps  can 
l)e  now  removed  Avith  much  less  difficulty,  logs  that  would  then  take  a  man 
days  to  cut  up  Avould  now  l)ui-n  out  in  a  few  hours  if  set  alight.  The 
Trewhella  jack,  one  of  the  most  useful  ini|)l('Uicnts  intiodnced  into  (iippsland. 


88  PICKING     UP. 

marked  an  epoch   in  the  history  of  clearing;,  and  horses  and  bnllocks  now 
make  easy  Mork  and  a  finished  job  where  sneh  was  simply  impossible  before. 

Some  idea  of  the  (jnantity  of  timber  that  grew  on  spar  conntry  can  be 
gathered  from  the  fact  that  in  picking-up  contracts  the  specifications  pro- 
vided for  clearing  up  and  bnrning  off  the  chips,  and  this  item  alone  might 
acconnt  for  a  considerable  loss  on  a  large  contract.  Picking-np  as  an  occnpa- 
tion  in  years  past  AA-as  like  fern  cutting  is  noAA",  something  to  fall  back  on 
for  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men.  If  a  man  got  down  on  his  Inck.  no 
matter  from  Avhat  cause,  he  conld  generally  get  a  job  of  picking-np  if  there 
was  nothing  else  doing.  Consequently  the  tent  or  log  hut  on  a  burn  Avould 
often  house  a  heterogeneous  collection  of  personalities — perhaps  a  dozen  men^ 
and  no  tAvo  of  the  same  trade  or  occupation.  In  conclusion,  I  append  a  few 
A'erses  AAritten  by  a  picker-np  in  a  hut  not  far  from  Korumburra  oA'er  a 
quarter  of  a  century  ago,  and  AA'hich  are  probably  posthumous.  The  Avriter 
had  got  down,  and  a  subscription  AAas  raised  by  the  early  settlers  to  send 
him  back  to  the  old  country  again,  and  nothing  has  been  heard  of  him 
since.  The  lines  Avill  go  to  show  that  the  bushman's  knoAA'ledge  is  not 
necessarily  confined  to  the  occupation  that  he  follows. 

X.B. — The  lines  above  mentioned  Avill  be  found  at  the  end  of  the  chapter 
on  The  DairA^  Industry. 


The  Roads,  and  How  We  Got  Them. 

MR.  T.  J.  COVERDALE. 

Tavo  things  have  combined  to  make  South  Gippsland  notorious  wherever 
its  name  has  been  mentioned,  and  these  are  its  scrub  and  its  roads.  The 
stupendous  fact  of  the  one.  and  the  equally  stupendous  vileness  of  the  other, 
make  claims  for  it  to  a  place  on  the  scroll  of  fame  that  few  districts  can  hope 
to  rival.  The  scrub,  hoAvever.  over  nearly  all  the  country  has  been  conquered; 
but  the  bad  roads  remain,  and  the  problem  of  them  is  likely  to  be  handed 
down  to  the  third  and  fourth  generation — probably  further — the  Country 
Roads  Board  notwithstanding.  But  the  roads  problem  of  to-day  is  very 
different  from  that  AAhich  the  pioneers  had  to  face.  To-day  it  is  how  to 
make  bad  roads  Iwtter;  Avith  them  it  Avas  hoAv  to  get  any  roads  at  all.  for  the 
surreved  ones  were  absolutely  useless  cA'en  when  cleared. 

Although  for  more  than  <^hirty  years  befoj-e  Ave  came  the  LoAver  Gipps- 
land road,  had  half  encircled  this  country  on  its  devious  way  from  Melbourne 
to  Sale.  A'ia  Port  Albert,  no  efFectiA^e  attempt  had  been  made  to  force  a  road 
through  the  dense  Avilderness  of  scrub.  In  an  account  of  a  journey  round 
the  coast  l)y  the  Assistant  Protector  of  the  1:>lacks,  Mr.  Thomas,  published  in 
the  ''Port  Piiillip  Patriot"  of  *)th  May.  1S44.  ;i  (|uaint  record  is  found  of  what 
Avas  probably  the  first  artem]:)t  at  I'oachnaking  in  the  scrub  country,  and  Avliich 
it  might  be  iuteresting  to  relate.  It  runs:  "iNfi'.  I'homas  slates  {here  is  a  road 
over  the  I'anges  (between  th€  Bass  riAer  and  Mr.  Chisholm's  station)  as  fine 
and  direct  a  road  as  any  surveyor  could  have  formed,  running  through  a 
thicMy  tirnhered  arid  finuhhi/  roimfr}/.  so  that  it  has  the  a])pearance  of  a 
continued  groove,  scarce  a  slum])  to  be  seen,  the  trees  cut  down  to  form  it 
being  cut  to  the  verA'  base  and  carefully  put  in  the  scrub  so  that  no  obstruction 
intervenes."'  On  encpiiry  he  found  the  road  liad  been  made  by  l)arkers  to 
sledge  theii-  bark'  to  the  coast.  But  "the  ])oor  felh)Avs."  lie  sym])athetically 
adds,  "aftei-  innking  tlie  i-oad.  paying  for  the  I)nlh)ck's  and  rations,  and  work- 
ing for  six  months.  Avere  tl."*  out  of  pocket.'"  What  an  ai'gument  for  a  railway 
oi-  a   I'oad  i>"i';nit  I     But   ]:)i-ob;ilily  llicre  were  no  deputations  in  those  days. 

l>iit  civilisation's  hist  ctrcctnal  inai-k  was  laid  on  the  wihlei'iiess  when 
G.  T.  McDonahk  in  isCrj,  comi)k'ted  tl)e  track  that  beai's  his  name.  This  Avas 
the  bigofest  piece  of  road  surveying  ever  done  in  South  Gi|)pshnid.  AHliongh 
he  did  not  \)\o\  it  as  ihe  tANo-chain  road  it  is  now.  he  ran  the  course  throngh- 
out  and  cut  a  track  idoiig  it.  It  ran  easterly  and  noi-th-easterly  from 
Tol)inyallock  to  ^foiwell,  a  distance  of  a.bout  se\-enty  miles,  and  for  the  most 
of  the  Avay  through  the  heart  of  the  big  scrnb  conjitry.  It  Avas  a  moniunent 
to  tlic  -kill  and  ])ei'sevei'ancc  of  the  man  who,  aftei'  more  than  two  yeai's  of 
dilliciiK  and  tclious  exploi'ing.  (•onq)l('ted  it.  TTis  snpplies  had  to  be  j^acked 
fi-om  GiMiilioiirnc.  distant  during  part  of  the  work  over  sixty  miles.  ""I'lie 
road  Avas  intended  for  a  bettei-  stock  i-oute  from  Sale  \o  Melbourne,  but  was 
abandoned,  as  there  Avas  no  ])ermanent  Avater  on  it.  although  it  ran  through 
an  exceptionally  Avet  counti-y.  The  reason  of  this  is  that  for  the  most  of  the 
Avay  it  i-uns  along  the  top  of  a  dividing  i-ange  which  falls  aAvay  shar])ly  in 
]>laces,  esiiecinlly  to  the  -onthwurd. 


90  THE     ROADS     AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 

Although  he  had  to  grope  about  in  the  dark,  so  to  speak,  through  the 
scrub,  it  is  surprising  hoAv  little  alteration  AAas  needed  in  the  route  surveyed 
by  him  when  tlie  clearings  let  daylight  in  upon  his  work.  Clearing  his  seven 
foot  "track"'  along  the  line,  he  unconsciously  wrote  his'  name  in  history;  and 
then  the  scene  of  his  labours  was  left  to  the  silence  of  the  bush  again  for  the 
next  twelve  or  thirteen  years.  When  the  tirst  luoueers  came  in.  the  track 
was  entii-ely  overgrown  and  very  diflicult  to  trace,  so  much  so  that  some  of 
the  blocks  were  surveyed  right  across  it — the  land  surveyors  not  noticing  it  at 
the  time.  After  being  run  again,  it  became  the  base  line  for  the  survey  of 
many  thousands  of  acres,  and  as  they  came  in.  the  settlers  kept  opening  up 
the  old  seven-foot  track  further  and  further  east.  And  this  seven-foot  track 
was  the  only  road  in  the  district  for  some  three  or  four  years,  and  had  to 
carry  the  traffic  of  many  square  miles  of  country.  Its  condition  in  the 
Winter  may  be  left  to  the  imagination. 

The  first  survey  of  yinvt  of  McDonald's  Track  as  a  road  was  made  by 
Thornhill  in  1876  in  conjunction  with  the  survey  of  the  Bluif  road. 

With  the  object  of  avoiding  the  sandhills  on  McDonald's  old  route  from 
Tobinyallock,  or  perhaps  of  giving  us  access  to  a  "port"  (!)  at  the  Red 
Blutf.  he  started  from  the  Grantville  road  a  few  miles  further  along  and 
picked  up  McDonald's  Track  a  little  east  of  the  site  of  Nyora.  and  surveyed 
it  thence  about  fourteen  miles  eastward,  Avhence  it  was  afterwards  continued 
by  the  block  surveyors.  A  surveyor  named  O'Brien  about  two  years  later 
surveyed  that  part  of  it  from  Tobinyallock  over  the  sandhills  to  Xyora 
junction.  At  this  time  also  Thornhill  surveyed  the  road  from  the  BlutF  road 
ito  the  Bass  at  Sunnyside. 

In  l^TS  a  Government  Grant  of  £240  was  obtained  for  clearing 
McDonald's  Track,  and  two  miles  of  it  was  cleared  a  chain  wide  from 
Poowong  eastward.  Later  on  the  settlers  and  the  Shire  Councils  did  the 
rest,  and  it  is  now  a  main  artery  of  traffic  for  a  wide  district. 

Although  a  good  deal  of  skirmishing  had  l)een  done  Avith  the  scrub  in 
the  vrest,  nothing  worth  the  name  had  been  accomplished  in  the  way  of  road- 
making  when  the  great  rush  for  land  set  in.  Murray  and  Hargreaves  sur- 
veyed a  road  from  Grantville  in  1878,  which  was  afterwards  continued  by 
Lardner  as  the  Jeetho  AVest  road.  They  also  surveyed  one  to  the  Bass  at 
Paul's  selection  to  give  access  to  the  country  further  south,  in  1870.  But 
many  thousands  of  acre>.  had  l)een  rapidly  taken  up  wherein  no  roads  what- 
ever existed,  except  the  useless  sectional  roads.  The  country  was  covered 
with  a  network  of  pack-tracks  stretching  out  nrany  miles  from  the  different 
bases,  and  the  condition  of  these  could  only  be  realised  by  those  who  had  the 
misfortune  to  travel  them.  They  were  mere  ditches  of  mud,  full  of  roots, 
stumps  and  crab-holes,  running  through  a  tunnel  of  scrub  over  hills  and 
gullies.  Through  these  the  unfortunate  horses  had  to  struggle  with  their 
heavy  packs,  splodging  along  knee  deep  in  mud  foi-  many  a  weary  mile.  In 
Summer,  as  the  tracks  dried,  they  A\orked  up  with  the  action  of  the  horses' 
feet  into  transver.se  ridffcs  about  two  feet  apart,  looking  on  the  hillsides  like 
aigantic  ladders.  One  stretch  where  the  track  went  up  the  side  of  a  i-jad 
hill  used  to  be  called  "The  Golden  Stairs,"  though  the  language  heard  there  at 
times  did  not  always  favour  the  comparison. 

Such  was  the  condition  of  the  country  in  the  matter  of  roads  for  some 
years  after  settlement  first  began.  And  as  the  roads  given  on  papei-  by  the 
Government  were,  in  some  places  up  the  sides  of  precipices  and  in  others  in 


THE     ROADS     AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 


91 


SIIOW'I.XC      IVI'ICAI,     LOCATION     OK     SolTIl     ( ;  I  T  I'SI,  A  NI  >     KOAK. 
The    m.iik    on    tin-    f.ui'    nf    tlic    liill    in    the    lower    plmto    is    a    ritail,    not    a    waterfall. 


the  beds  of  ci-eeks.  hoinji  put  m  at  every  mik'  or  so  without  the  slightest 
regard  for  practicability  (the  land  being  surveyed  on  the  chessboard  pattern, 
the  same  as  if  it  had  been  level  country)  the  settlers  had  to  find  an  entirely 
new  system  of  roads  for  themselves,  that  of  the  Government  being  nothing 
more  than  a  huge  practical  joke.  And  certaijily  it  savoured  much  of  the 
humour  of  the  first  of  April  to  tell  a  man  there  was  a  road  to  his  block,  and 
let  him  find  out  when  he  got  tlure  tbat  part  of  it  was  perpcudiciil:ii'  iiitd  llie 
rest  ran  along  the  bed  of  a  creek. 

Had  the  Government  of  tbe  dav  done  as  later  Governments  have  done, 
and  surveyed  the  roads  through  the  district,  adding  the  cost,  which  would 
have  been  comparatively  triibng  then,  to  the  capital  value  of  the  land,  it 
would  have  saved  a  world  of  trouble  and  expense  in  forcing  roads,  at 
enormous  cf>st,  throuirh  |>riv}»te  j^ropeity  bitei-  on,  and  hastened  the  progress 
of  the  place  enormously.  l>ut  this  was  not  done,  and  the  settlers  had  to  work 
out  their  own  salvation  in  the  matter  of  roads. 


92  THE     ROADS     AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THE.M. 

Armed  with  compass  and  tomahawk  then,  they  had  to  scramble  for  weeks 
over  miles  of  scrub  covered  ranges  and  gullies,  that  seemed  to  be  jumbled 
about  in  hopeless  confusion,  in  Avearisome  eifoi-ts  to  find  practicable  roads. 
The  density  of  scrub  obscured  the  contour  of  the  ranges  beyond  a  radius  of 
a  couple  of  chains,  and  it  was  liJce  finding  a  road  in  the  dark  with  a  lantern. 
In  fact,  a  good  arc  lamp  would  have  shown  more  of  the  country  on  the  darkest 
nisfht  in  the  open  than  could  be  seen  through  the  scrub  in  the  daylight.  First 
one  ridge  and  then  another  would  be  laboriously  explored  without  success; 
one  that  you  thought  was  going  to  take  you  to  your  objective  on  a  good 
grade  would  suddenly  drop  down  into  a  gully  on  a  grade  of  one  in  two; 
or  another  equally  promising  would  suddenly  jump  up  as  steeply,  while  a 
third  would  probably  turn  oif  at  a  right  angle  to  your  course.  If  a  big 
creek  or  river  were  discovered,  the  flat  usually  found  on  one  side  or  the  other 
of  these  would  be  tried  for  a  route:  but  these  were  often  swampy  or  reciuired 
too  many  bridges;  so  the  ridges  were  favoured  most  as  being  drier  and  less 
costly. 

Had  money  been  available  to  do  earthworks  many  short  cuts  could  have 
been  made  and  better  grades  obtained.  But  there  was  none,  for  we  were  not 
in  any  Municijjal  district  at  first,  and  later,  when  we  Avere.  the  rates  in  most 
cases  amounted  to  only  about  thirty  shillings  or  two  pounds  per  square  mile. 
Certainly  there  was  a  good  subsidy  with  it  after  a  Avhile,  but  subsidy  and 
rates  alik«  were  mostly  all  spent  at  the  centres,  so  that  the  roads  were  often 
taken  over  the  tops  of  hills  on  grades  of  one  in  six.  to  save  the  expens'e  of 
side  cuttings,  wlien  a  deviation  round  the  side  would  haA'e  given  a  good 
grade. 

In  1879.  after  much  tedious  exploration  of  the  intervening  country,  a 
road  was  discovered  by  the  settlers  from  Poowong,  on  McDonald's  Track,  to 
Drouin  on  the  neAvly-opened  Gippsland  line  and  cleared  by  them  for  a  narroAV 
dray  track.  This  road  formed  tJie  only  access  to  the  raihvay  for  man}^  years 
for  a  large  district.  Narrow,  crooked  an^l  ungi-ubbed.  its  condition  in  the 
Winter  was  atrocious  and  often  (juite  impassable.  Previous  to  this  the  Blutf 
road  and  McDonald's  Track  had  formed  the  only  outlets  for  some  two  hundred 
square  miles  of  country. 

In  1880  a  number  of  road  routes  having  been  discovered  and  blazed 
through  the  scrub  by  the  settlers,  Surveyor  Lardner  Avas  sent  up  by  the 
department  to  make  "permanent  surveys'  of  them,  impi'oving  the  grades  where 
possible.  The  first  of  these  surveyed  was  the  Main  South  road  from  Poowong 
A-ia  the  present  site  of  Bena.  and  eastAvord  to  a  point  on  WhitelaAv's  Track, 
about  half  a  mile  south  of  the  present  Bena  junction,  to  Avhich  latter  it  Avas 
afterwards  altered.  But  the  Main  South  road  proper  turned  south  oil'  this  road 
a  mile  and  a  half  Avest  of  this  point,  and  Avas  surveyed  three  years  later  by  Mr. 
Lardner  via  Jumbunna  to  Anderson's  Inlet  on  the  south  coast.  In  1880  also 
he  surveyed  Whitelaw"s  Track.  WhitelaAv  had  cut  this  -packdiorse  track," 
as  he  called  it,  from  Foster  nearly  to  McDonald's  Track,  in  187-1-5,  and  cleared 
part  of  it  for  a  drav  road.  It  v:sis  intended  at  the  time  for  a  short  cut,  A'ia 
McDonald's  Track,  from  Foster  to  :Melbourne,  but  Avas  abandoned  vhen  the 
gold  mines  at  Foster  gave  out,  though  the  survey  party  had  reached  within 
a  couple  of  miles  of  McDonald's  Track. 

In  1881  Lardner  surveyed  the  Drouin  to  PooAvong  road.  i>reviously  men- 
tioned, and  the  East  PooAvong  joad;  and  later  the  Jeetho  AVest  road  from 
the  Main  South  road  to  Hargreaves  surA'ey  of  1878.  giving  access  to  Grant- 
ville  on  Westernport   Bay.     In   1883-4  he"  surveyed  the  Mirlx)o  road  fi-om 


THE     ROADS    AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 


DEVIATION    OX    .Mor.XT    VIKW    UOAD.     Ohl    (ir:i(|.'.    I    in    7:    New   Craih 
The  Olil    Kdiiil    is   sli<.>\-|i    on    the   left    ol"   pirtnrc. 


1    in    JS. 


Wliitelaw's  Track,  also  the  FaiiUaiik  road,  thus  foriniiijr  the  first  connection 
between  tlie  settlements  of  Koninihurra  on  the  west  and  those  of  Mirl)0(>  on 
the  east.     And  so  our  road  system  hejxan  to  dexelop  at  last. 

As  all  this  country  had  heen  taken  up  under  the  I^and  Acts  of  18<)!>  or 
1878,  most  of  ii  was  still  held  under  license.  \Miile  the  laiul  was  held  under 
license  the  (iovernment  could  put  roads  where  it  liked  without  compensation, 
and  many  of  the  i)rincii)al  i-oads'  were  so  taken:  hut  a  little  latei'.  when  the 
people  bepui  to  <ret  their  leases  and  Crown  (irants.  the  (»|)enin<r  up  of  new 
roads  became  a  costly  business,  and  the  cause  of  nuich  wran^liii<r  and  heai't- 
bnrnins;  Avhere  o])position  was  met  with.  And  in  souie  cases  the  sti-on^vst 
opposition  was  oifered  :  parliamentary  influence  was  lVc(|iiently  invoked,  and 
very  unparliamentary  lan^uaire  sometimes  indulged  in  bel'orc  finality  was 
reachefl. 

In  those  days  the  man  witii  a  road  <rricvauce  was  connuon.  lie  was 
either  trying  to  jret  a  road  through  the  propci-ty  of  a  neighlioiii'  who  was 
blocking  him,  or  a  neighbour  was  trying  to  get  one  thiough  his.  In  either 
case  the  other  fellow  was  always  iu  the  wrong,  and  was  tui-ning  out  a  much 
inferior  stani])  of  a  man  to  that  which  he — the  man  with  a  grievance — had 
always  believed  him  to  be.  This  opi)osition  was  largely  (hie  to  the  fact  that 
])eo})le  were  beginning  to  gel  their  i)laces  cleared,  theii-  homesteads  built  and 
theii-  paddock-  an-auL^cd.  while  neithei-  the  councils  nor  the  people  rc<|niring 
outlets  could  all'oi-d  to  gi\e  as  good  compensation  as  they  do  now. 

After  these  pieliminaries  liad  been  fought  out.  and  sometimes  before,  all 
those  interested  would  turn  out  and  cut  a  jiack  track  oi-  sledge  road  along  the 


94  THE     ROADS     AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 

new  survey  line,  clearing  oil  the  scrub  and  big  logs  a  few  feet  wide  and 
bridging  the  creeks.  Little  grubbing  was  done  at  first  till  the  stumps  began 
to  get  aggressive,  then  the  worst  of  them  would  be  taken  out.  Later  on  this 
would  be  made  into  a  dray  road  with  a  little  more  clearing  and  earthworks, 
and  rebuilding  of  the  bridges. 

It  often  happened  that  some  settlers  would  be  cut  otf  from  the  main 
roads  b}'  gullies  or  ridges,  necessitating  wide  detours  to  reach  these  roads, 
with  much  heavy  clearing  and  bridging  often  to  be  done  by  them  alone;  and 
some  of  these  men  have  not  even  yet  got  decent  outlets. 

Providing  these  outlets  and  making  deviations  round  the  sharp  pinches 
on  the  ridges  that  the  early  pioneers  went  over  the  tops  of  to  save  side-cutting, 
fornix  a  considerable  item  in  the  business  and  expenditure  of  the  Shire  Coun- 
cils to-day.  But  before  this  was  begun,  the  Councils,  as  soon  as  they  were 
formed,  took  up  the  ^^ork  of  clearing  the  main  tracks  and  converting 
them  into  alleged  roads — mud  caiuils  w^ould  better  describe  them.  In  Winter 
nothing  could  travel  them  but  the  pack-horse  or  the  sledge :  and  the 
mud  might  be  seen  rising  up  in  front  of  the  latter  Avhen  in  motion  like  a 
combing  wave  in  front  of  a  fast  travelling  boat.  A  long  stack  of  timber  that 
had  been  cleared  off  the  road  lay  along  each  side,  blocking  the  water  in 
places  from  geting  away.  These  piles  of  timljer  and  the  standing  scrub 
alongside  would  be  splashed  to  a  height  of  several  feet  with  liquid  mud 
thrown  up  by  the  passing  traffic.  Out  of  sight,  l^eneath  a  foot  or  more  of 
mild,  stumps,  roots,  -and  crablioles  lay  in  wait  for  wheels  or  sledge,  or  the 
feet  of  the  unfortunate  horses  and  cattle  that  an  unkind  fate  had  condemned 
to  travel  on,  or  in.  South  (iippsland  roads. 

Corduroy  was  pretty  largely  used  by  the  settlers  in  the  early  days  to  keep 
them  out  of  the  mud.  and  the  forests  of  saplings  of  all  kinds  through  which 
the  roads  ran  a  Horded  abundance  of  material  for  the  work.  Spars  of  six  or 
eight  inches  in  diameter  were  cut  into  lengths  of  eight  or  ten  feet,  and  laid 
close  together,  transversely  to  the  road,  along  the  worst  stretches.  The  result 
as  a  liver  stimulant  was  hard  to  beat,  but  as  a  road  it  left  much  to  be  desired. 
A  better  system  of  corduroy  was  adopted  by  the  Shire  Councils  later  on.  of 
splitting  slabs  of  about  four  inches  by  nine  and  ten  or  twelve  feet  long  out  of 
the  big  timber,  and  laying  them  on  longitudinal  bed  logs.  When  well  laid, 
this  made  a  good  road  and  lasted  for  years.  But  at  each  end  of  every  piece 
of  corduroy  a  large  mud  hole  Aery  soon  formed,  and  drivers  Avere 
often  faced  with  two  problems;  one  was  how  to  get  on  to  the  cor- 
duroy, and  the  other  how  to  get  otf  it.  ami  as  the  patches  of  corduroy 
might  l:)e  anything  from  a  mile  to  a  fcAv  chanis  or  even  a  few  yards  in  length, 
these  problems  came  pretty  frequently.  In  the  hazel  country  the  roads 
generally  worked  up  into  one  continuous  slush  all  the  way.  but  in  the  open 
messmate  country  they  wore  into  deep  holes  from  a  couple  of  yards  to  half  a 
chain  in  length,  with  alternate  stretches  of  fairly  good  going.  These  holes 
Avere  frequently  patched  Avith  corduroy,  with  the  result  that  two  holes  grcAV 
AA^here  only  one  Avas  before,  and  the  man  Avho  patched  Avas  not  regarded  as  a 
benefactor  to  his  country. 

The  sedimentary  rock  of  the  district  when  l)iinit  was  often  used  as  a  sub- 
stitute for  blue  metal;  it  was  ]nled  on  stacks  of  wood  and  l)urncd  for  several 
days.  The  burning  hardened  the  rock,  and  it  would  last  for  .-^ome  years  on 
roads  where  the  tratfic  was  light.  Burnt  clay  was  also  occasionally  used  for 
the  same  purpose. 

For  many  years  the  CounciU  had  a  nio.-~t  difficult  and  disheartening  task 
in  trying  to  cope  Avith  the  work"  of  ]Mirchasing  and  making  roads,  and  the 


THE     ROADS    AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 


95 


»->■  Y 


'^ 


(t.\     THI-:     r.OOLAItUA   I'OSTKK     U()AI>. 

Since    .Metalled    by    (""illltrv     l{(i:|.ls    I'.ciai-cl. 


cost  in  some  cases  wns  enormous.  The  pnrchase.  clearino-,  bridjiing,  earth- 
works and  fencing  Avoiihl  often  cost  ovei-  £500  jier  mile;  the  metallino-  costing 
from  £500  to  £800  per  mile  more.  And  tliis  liad  to  he  (h'agged  out  of  peo]:)le 
who,  for  oh  A  ions  reasons,  conhj  in  the  meantime  make  little  or  nothing  oil'  the 
land. 

Ill  the  early  eighties  many  of  the  (iippslaud  Shires  receixcd  from  the 
(joverninent  a  subsidj'  of  t'o  for  every  tl  collected  in  rales,  heside  special 
grants,  in  consideration  of  their  ])eculiar  road  dilhcnlties  and  the  loss  of  the 
tolls'  Avhich  had  bnt  recently  heen  abolished.  Puit  several  of  the  South  (ripps- 
land  Shires  Avere  constituted  too  late  to  hcnciit  by  this  generous  subsidy, 
which  soon  dwindled  doAvn  to  about  six  shillings  in  the  £.  Ibit  about  the 
year  1907,  during  the  regime  of  Sir  Thomas  Fx-nt  as  Prcmici'.  the  subsidy 
was  increased,  by  which  some  of  them  receixcd  up  to  \'2  -  in  the  £.  They 
also  then  received  80  per  c(Mi1.  (d'  the  license  fees,  wliicli  ga\e  some  of  the  shires 
an  additional  £500  pei-  yar.  Special  grants  wrvr  also  obtained  occasionally, 
and  will)  a  genei-al  rise  in  land  \alues.  the  lexcnues  of  the  shires  increased, 
and  great  improvements  Avei-e  made  in  the  roads;  to-day  (IDM),  hundreds  of 
miles  have  l)een  cleared  and   InriniMl.  iukI  many  miles  UKMalled. 

Private  iiidixidiials  or  -.iiiall  roiniiiiinil  ies  re(piiriiig  |i;i  il  iciilnr  roads 
were  often  called  ui)on  to  eonlrilMUc  liliei'aliy  towards  the  cost  (d"  lliem  eitiier 
in  money,  fencing  or  labour,  .md  in  the  main  justice  was  i\iinv  by  (he  Councils 
between  tliese  |)eoi)le  and  the  gejieral  rate)»ayei'.  The  old.  useless  sectional 
roads  put  in  by  the  land  sur\evoi's  were  in  many  cases  utilised  by  the  Shire 
Councils  to  lighten  the  cost  of  those  substituted  I'oi'  them.  They  may  be  dealt 
with  in  ditl'erent  Avays:  sometimes  they  are  -;old  and  the  pi-ocee(N  used  in  the 


96  THE     ROADS     ANT)     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 

purchase  of  new  roads,  or  they  may  be  given  in  exchange  for  a  new  road  to 
the  landhohler  through  whose  hnid  the  latter  goe>.  It  not  so  dealt  with, 
they  are  leased  under  the  provisions  of  the  I'nused  Eoads  and  AVater 
Frontages  Act  of  1903  to  the  adjoining  landholders  at  a  Ioav  rental.  Half 
the  proceeds  of  these  rents  was  at  one  time  returned  to  the  Shires  wherein  it 
was  collected,  and  the  balance,  together  with  the  water  frontages  rents,  paid 
into  a  fund  from  Avhich  the  (lovernment  made  grants  to  necessitous  Shires. 
But  since  the  formation  of  the  Country  Roads  Board  in  101?).  these  monies 
are  paid  into  its  fund. 

Deviations  and  new  outlets  will  be  recjuired  for  many  years  to  come.  A 
number  of  the  original  blocks,  held  often  Ijy  members  of  families  living  on 
adjoining  properties,  are  not  yet  residentially  occupied:  when  they  are,  new 
outlets  for  them  will  be  required;  subdivision  also,  although  a  small  item 
at  present,  is'  sure  in  the  future  to  increase  the  demand  for  new  roads. 
Although  an  immense  amount  of  AAork — outsiders  can  never  realis'e  how 
much — has  been  done  in  the  older  districts  by  the  Shire  Councils  and  by  the 
settlers  themselves,  there  are  still  manv  settlers  m  places  remote  from  main 
roads  who  are  asking  merely  for  earth  roads  to  replace  those  awful  pack 
tracks  and  sledge  tracks  they  have  struggled  with  so  long.  And  these 
secondary  roads  must  be  gi^en  or  the  costly  main  roads  of  the  Country  Roads 
Board  will  lose  half  their  usefulness. 

A  word  as  to  the  constitution  and  purpose  of  this  Board  may  not  l)e  out 
of  place  here.  It  was  constituted  in  March.  1913.  for  the  purpose  of  im- 
proving the  existing  main  roads  of  the  State,  and  Avhere  necessary,  making 
other  main  roads.  It  consists  of  three  members — Messrs.  Calder  (Chairman), 
Fricke  and  McCormack.  and  all  its  works  are  cai-ried  out  under  the  super- 
vision of  the  officers  of  the  local  Shire  Councils. 

For  the  operations  of  the  Board,  a  sum  of  £-2.000.000  was  provided  by 
Parliament  to  be  expended  over  five  .years.  Half  this  sum  is  a  gift  to  the 
municipalities,  the  balance  is  i-epayable  by  them  in  31i  years  at  -1^  per  cent, 
interest  and  11  per  cent,  sinking  fund. 

This  will  be  all  right  for  the  main  roads,  but  will  do  little  good  for  the 
men  outback  who  cannot  get  on  to  them.  If  the  Board  can  devise  some 
means  of  assisting  the  Councils  to  help  these  unfortunates,  it  will  earn  the 
gratitude  of  the  pioneers  and  of  all  Avho  have  the  welfare  of  vSoutJi  (lippslaud 
at  heart. 

*  *  *  ;•-- 

Soon  after  the  above  was  written,  the  Great  Wnv  broke  out  and  the  pub- 
lication of  this  book  Avas  deferred  until  less  troublous  times.  In  the  mean- 
time, the  Country  Roads  Board  referred  to  above  has  done  a  vast  amount 
of  work  in  the  districts  here  dealt  with — spending  something  like  £200,000  in 
re-locating,  regrading  and  metalling  the  rojvls-  Early  in  the  operations  of 
the  Board,  it  was  realised  that  the  settlers  fav  from  the  Main  Roads  were  not 
getting  a  fair  deal,  and  eventually  in  191S  further  sums,  totalling  £2.000.000, 
were  made  available  by  Parliament  for  what  are  termed  "Developmental 
Roads.''  Xone  of  this  money  has  to  be  repaid  by  the  municipalities,  but  they 
'AA'ill  be  required  to  pay  sums  equal  to  alxmt  IV-  jier  cent,  per  annum  on  it  for 
twenty  years.  The  roads  to  be  operated  ()n  are  those  leading  to  railway 
stations,  or  on  to  the  main  roads,  and  are  usually  suggested  by  the  Shire 
Councils  and  taken  over  by  the  Board  when  approved.  This  will  meet  the 
case  of  the  men  out  back,  iuit  it  is  feared  that,  owing  to  the  increased  cost 


tfi  o 


t-  mo 


r  1  s  "" 


^2 


(/)  en 


c  a 

O  lU 

pa- 
ss 


2^ 


98  THE     ROADS     AND     HOW     WE     GOT     THEM. 

of  labour  and  material  .-ince  the  Avar,  this  amount  aa  ill  not  be  sufficient,  and 
either  further  grants  will  be  required  or  a  less  expensive  system  of  construc- 
tion adopted. 

It  is  satisfactory  to  note  that  of  late  j^ears  the  Board  has  concerned 
itself  much  more  extensively  with  works  in  the  back  country  than  in  improving 
fairly  good  roads  in  the  old,  settled  districts.  This  is  as  it  should  be,  and  if 
continued  will  revolutionise  transport  conditions  here  and  in  similar  districts, 
and  o-ive  them  a  fair  chance  beside  other  parts  of  the  State. 

One  great  permanent  advantage  derived  from  the  operations  of  the 
Board  is  in  the  re-location  of  many  of  the  roads,  thus  doing  away  with  the 
old  "sAvitchbacks"  on  the  ridge  roads,  Avhere  we  Avere  compelled  to  toil  over 
the  tops  of  hills  for  lack  of  money  to  make  side-cuttings  round  them. 


The  Pioneers  of  Poowong. 

MR.  A.  GILLAN. 

It  was  minv  years  after  \'ictoiia  was  liist  settled  (and  this  may  be  said 
to  have  commenced  in  18o5).  before  attention  was  directed  by  the  (fovern- 
ment  and  people  to  the  portion  of  the  State  occupying  the  South  PLast.  and 
called  South  (xippsland.  The  province  of  (xippsland  was  named  after  Sir 
George  (Tipps.  one  of  the  Governors  of  Xew  South  Wales.  The  hilly  character 
of  the  country  and  the  dense  forest  covering  it  were  two  great  obstacles  in  the 
way  of  Settlement  and  occupation.  In  the  early  days'  it  was  nominally  oc- 
cupied by  sijuatters.  who  grazed  their  stock  on  the  open  and  less  timbered 
countrx   between  the  hill-  and  the  southern  coast. 

The  overland  journey  of  Comit  Strzelecki  and  his  party  (noticed  in 
another  part  of  this  book)  in  ISIO  from  Xew  South  A\'ales  to  Westernport, 
and  the  sm-vey  of  McDonald's  Track  by  a  surveyor  named  McDonald  from 
Tobinvallock  to  Morwell  in  1860.  are  two  of  the  most  notable  events  occur- 
ring prior  to  the  advent  of  the  occupation  of  the  country  for  grazing  and 
agricultural  purposes.  McDonald  and  his  party  nnist  have  had  an  eventful 
and  trying  time  in  carrying  out  the  work  entrusted  to  them. 

The  track  starting  from  'J'obinyallock  continued  east  and  north-east 
among  the  hills,  follov.  ing  a  tortuous  course  along  ridges  aiul  watersheds  to 
the  main  (yippsland  road  at  Morwell.  It  is  still  used  as  one  of  the  main  roads 
passing  through  the  country,  which  at  first  it  opened  uj).  It  has  also  served  a 
useful  |)uri)o>-e  in  a  dili'erent  way;  as  when  selec^tion  took  place,  it  formed  the 
base  of  the  blocks  taken  up  north  and  south  of  its  course.  In  consequence  of 
the  country  being  oi)ened  up  to  some  extent  by  McDonald's  Track  and  the 
discovery  of  the  fertility  of  the  soil  when  cleared  of  trees  and  >cnib,  i'  was 
thrown  open  for  selection  under  the  Lands  Act  of  iSGO.  This  Act  entitled 
the  selector  to  take  uj)  an  aiea  of  320  acres  at  a  yearly  rental  of  1/  -  per  aci-e 
for  a   perio(l  of  -JO  ve:ir-.   when   he  obtain(>(l  the  Crown  (ii'ant. 

IJetween  1^70  and  ls7.">  selectioii  took  jdnce  only  to  ,i  niodernle  extent, 
but  durina'  the  succeeding  five  year>  the  couniry  m;iy  be  -aid  (o  have  been 
ruslied  by  a  >trean)  of  selectors  fiom  d'Herent  i)arls  of  the  State.  Tiie  country 
Avas  ai>j)roached  for  selection  from  diilerent  (juai'ters.  but  the  main  >tream  of 
those  in  (|ue-l  of  l;iiid  canie  by  the  ^^'esternl)o^l  and  McDonald's  Track 
roiite>.  another  of  -.nialh')'  volume  from  Drouin.  The  District  of  Toowong, 
from  its  situation  alojiir  McDonald's  I'rack.  and  only  a  -hoii  disliuice  fi'om 
the  Dooi-  couiitrv  intei-veniuii'  between  AA'eslernport .  \\:i-  iiuioni:-  the  lir.-t  to  be 
settled. 

Jame.-^  S(.itt  ;in(l  family  ui:i\-  be  said  l<»  bi'  the  lir-(  settler-.  Mr.  Scott 
came  in  1S74  I'rom  \\'est;i\\ay  Station  at  ^^'es|e^npoI•l.  where  he  hiul  been 
.settled  foi-  several  veai-.  Inning  couie  ihcre  jtrex  ioic-|\-  froui  the  'I  nlbot 
district.  It  was  mainly  through  the  bivourable  icports  n\'  the  fertility  of 
the  ground  given  by  the  woi-knun  enu)lo>'ed  by  Surscyor  McDonald  in 
opening  up  tlie  ti-ack  |)reviously  mentioned  that  induced  Mr.  Scott  to  come  at 
first  to  the  Di-tiirt  of  PooudM'/.     ^^^.  Scott,  when  he  came,  ei'ected  a   hut  of 


lUO  THE     PIONEERS     OF     POOWONG. 

fern  sftems  on  the  block  ^Yhicll  his  son.  R.  G.  Scott,  selected,  covering  the  roof 
Avith  fronds.  AVhen  the  family  joined  him  they  had  a  narrow  escape  of  losing 
their  liA-es,  owing  to  a  tree  falling  (jnite  close  to  the  camp.  A  large  box 
hUed  with  crockery  sustained  the  full  force  of  the  fall,  with  disastrous  results 
tu  the  box  and  contents. 

The  fern  house  soon  gave  place  to  a  more  pretentious  building,  erected 
at  the  south  end  of  the  block  along  McDonald's  Track,  which  in  time  was 
licensed,  and  many  who  came  in  search  of  land  made  for  this  place,  which 
was  a  popular  resort  in  the  first  years  of  settlement. 

^Nlr.  Scott  and  his  large  famdy  of  boys  look  an  active  part  in  promoting 
settlement  and  developing  their  farm.  Mr.  Scott,  besides  grazing,  engaged 
in  cheese  manufacture  with  successful  resiilts.  He  also  took  much  interest 
in  establishing  a  market  for  stock  at  PooAvong.  This  has  proved  highly 
useful  to  the  local  community,  and  the  sales  at  first  were  conducted  at  his 
OAvn  place  by  Hyde  and  Howard,  of  Dandenong.  and  it  is  still  one  of  the 
leadiiig  district  markets,  the  auctioneering  firms  attending  same  being  Alex. 
Scott  i  Co.  (A.  Scott  bemg  a  son  of  Mr.  Jas.  Scott),  Joseph  Clarke  &  Co. 
and  F.  J.  Little  Proprietary  Limited. 

Mr.  J.  A.  Wallace-Dunlop  came  to  the  district  from  Brighton  also  in 
lb74.  selecting  near  Mr.  Scott.  A  young  lady.  Miss  Fann.y  Mawbey  by 
name,  pegged  a  block  adjcnning  Mr.  Dunlop's.  and  by  and  bye  became  Mrs. 
Dunlop.  This  was  an  example  of  similar  arrangements  being  agreed  upon  in 
a  numl)er  of  instar.ces  by  young  men  and  women  contemplating,  after  selec- 
tion, a  matrimonial  partnership. 

Mr.  Dunloi:)  wa>  a  useful  member  of  society,  being  skilled  as  a  veterinary 
surgeon,  a  qualification  that  made  his  services  in  this  direction  highly 
desirable  at  times. 

Mr.  H.  Littledike  Avas  one  of  the  early  pioneers,  and  one  who  took  an 
active  ])art  in  the  advancement  of  the  district.  He  was  a  member  of  the  Buln 
Buln  Shire  Council  for  many  years,  taking  a  prominent  part  in  its  proceed- 
ings. He  was  thoroughly  conversant  with  the  curing  of  bacon  and  conducted 
this  line  of  buiness  at  his  homestead  for  a  number  of  years.  He  met  hijs 
death  by  accident  in  (me  of  his  ])add()cks.  through  a  branch  of  a  tree  which 
he  was  burning  falling  upon  him. 

David  Ferrier,  adjoining  Messrs.  Littledike  and  Dunlop.  was  another  of 
the  earh'  pioneers,  and  was  well  Icnown  as  a  carrier  ])\  pack  and  conveyance. 
By  these  means  he  transported  the  goods  and  chattels  of  a  considerable 
number  of  selectors  to  their  destination,  not  unfrequentiy  exposed  to  a  great 
risk  of  life  or  limb  in  carrying  out  various  undertakings. 

Mr.  .C.  Burchett.  who  came  from  Brunswick,  selected  in  Fel)i-uary,  1876. 
His  Ijlock  was  directly  opposite  the  Poowonu  Township  Koervc.  and  the 
southern  end,  abutting  on  AIcDonald's  Track,  now  forms  part  of  the  township. 
Mr.  Burchett.  on  settling  at  Poowong.  immediately  attended  to  the  religious 
interests  of  the  settlers  living  in  the  district  by  conducting  services,  which  at 
first  were  held  in  his  house,  and  afterwards  1)>  taking  an  active  part  in  the 
erection  of  a  Union  Church,  which  for  a  time  served  all  the  Protestant 
inhabitanrs.  Mr.  Burchett  was  also  one  of  the  early  Councillors  representing 
the  Poowong  District  in  the  Buln  Buln  Shire  Council.  This  Shire  was 
constituted  in  1ST8.  the  meetings  of  the  Council  being  held  in  Drouin.  ]Mr. 
Bui'chett  took  considerable  interest  in  the  Atlienu'inii.  erecteil  at  Poowona"  in  ' 


102  THE     PIONEERS     OF     POOWONG. 

ls>>4.  and  tlu'  Library  coiiiieciod  with  it.  ljeiii«r  Serretai-v  and  Librarian  for 
many  years. 

^Ii-.  and  Mr.-.  Horsley  came  from  Maldon,  where  they  had  re.-ided  for 
al)ont  1*0  years,  to  Poowong  in  Jnne,  ISTT.  their  selection  being-  close  to  the 
toA^nship  on  the  eastern  side.  Mr.  Horsley  was  the  first  blacksmith  at 
PooMo)]o-.  and  Mrs.  Horsley  'the  first  post-mistress.  The  mails  were  obtained 
fi'om  the  Grantville  coach  at  Lang  Lang,  and  carried  to  Poowong  on  horse- 
back. This  method  gave  place  in  abotit  1880  to  a  coach  service  between 
Dronin  and  Poowong.  established  by  Mr.  Howard  for  the  carriage  of  pas- 
sengers and  mails.  From  the  muddy  character  of  the  tracks,  especially  in 
Avinter.  and  the  partial  clearing  of  them,  the  mails  Avere  A'ery  irregular  in 
arriA  al.  and  freqtiently  people  Avotild  have  to  Avait  until  night  at  the  Post 
Office  for  the  mails  that  should  have  arrived  soon  after  mid-day.  On  such 
occasions,  and  thev  Avere  freqtient.  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Horsley  earned  the  gratitude 
of  the  re.?idents  by  providing  .shelter  and  hospitality  to  those  Avaitinti;  for 
their  overdue  mails.  In  1886.,  AA'hen  Mrs.  Horsley  gave  up  the  Post  Office, 
a  presentation  of  a  silver  tea  and  coffee  service  and  salver  Avas  made  to  her 
as  an  expression  of  appreciation  and  respect  by  the  people  of  the  district.  Of 
her  family.  tAvo  of  her  sons  Aveve  Coiuicdlors  in  the  Poowong  and  Jeetho 
Shire  Council. 

Mr.  .  Gardner  took  a  leading  part  in  the  agitation  for  a  railway  from 
Droiiin  to  Poowong.  Mr.  Robert  J.  Murdoch,  senr.,  and  Mr.  Walter  Foreman 
also  took  an  actiA'e  part  in  this  agitation.  The  Government  of  the  day 
favoured  the  proposal,  and  had  a  line  surveyed.  This  Avas  afterwards  aban- 
doned through  a  change  of  Ministry,  and  a  decision  of  Parliament  in  1883  to 
build  the  South  Eastern  line  from  Dandeiiong  to  Port  Albert.  This  line 
passed  through  the  district  about  four  mile^  south-Avest  of  PooAvong.  too 
far  to  be  of  any  benefit  to  the  toAvnsliip.  although  of  considerable  advantage 
to  tlie  locality. 

Of  the  local  stores,  Mr.  .J.  Salmon  .had  the  first  in  the  Poowong  township. 
Mr.  P.  .J.  Murdoch  had  the  store  at  Cruickston.  and  Mr.  Thos.  Adkins  the  store 
at  Strzelecki.       !Mr.  Jas.  Scott  had  the  first  store  in  tlie  district. 

In  1876  Messrs.  J.  McCord  and  George  Henry  came  to  Poowong,  and  were 
the  first  to  settle  on  land  south  of  the  Bass.  Soon  after  selection  thej  opened 
up  a  track  from  PooAvong  across  the  Bass  to  their  selections.  Mr.  Henry  and 
family  became  large  contractors  to  the  Shire  Council.  The.se  settlers  came 
from  the  Geelong  district,  as  also  Cook  Bros.,  aa^io  came  in  the  following 
year,  and  selected  on  the  av extern  side  of  Me.-srs.  3.1cCord  and  Henry,  whilst 
Mr.  Duncan  McTavisli  from  Melton  selected  on  the  eastern  side  in  the  same 
year. 

Mr.  Hugh  Campbell.  nephcAv  to  Mr.  McTavish,  came  to  PooAvong  in 
1880.  and  settled,  with  his  uncle  aiding  him  actively  in  buying  and  selling 
stock  i:^  connection  Avith  his  pursuit  as  a  grazier.  Messrs.  Cook  Bros,  were 
both  teachers:  one  of  them.  Mr.  C.  Cook,  had  charge  of  the  Poowong  State 
School  for  upAvards  of  25  years.  Avhen  he  Avas  superannuated.  Mr.  Cook  was 
secretary  for  many  years  of  the  Athenaeum.  He  also  took  an  actiA'e  interest 
in  the  establishment  of  the  PooAvong  Co-djjerative  Butter  Factory  in  1892, 
and  Avas  its  first  secretary.  His  brother.  Mr.  E.  Cook.  Avas  secretary  for  many 
years  of  the  PooAvong  Cemetery  Board. 

Mr.  T.  G.  Scott  came  to  PooAvong  in  1876  from  the  Dunollv  district  and 
got  a  forfeited  block,  first  selected  by  Mr.  J.  Beckett,  west  of  Mr."  R.  G.  Scott's 


THE     PIONEERS     OF     POOWONG.  103 

selection.  Mr.  Scott  was  noted  for  his  friendship  and  hospitality,  and  on 
leaving  the  district  he  was  the  recipient  of  a  gold  watch,  given  to  him  at  a 
banquet  by  the  residents  of  the  district. 

Mr.  Walter  Grieve  came  also  from  the  Diinolly  di'-^trict  same  year  and 
selected  a  block  adjoining  Mr.  Scott. 

Mr.  Eobert  Motton  came  from  Melton  about  1870.  Two  blocks  along 
McDonald's  Track  and  east  of  Poowong  were  selected  by  Alice  and  Louisa 
Motton.  members  of  his  family,  and  two  more  have  since  been  bought,  ad- 
joining, making  a  compact  and  valuable  estate.  Mv.  ^lotton  died  in  1012  at 
the  advanced  age  of  01  years. 

Mr.  R.  fJ.  Murdoch,  who  came  from  Port  Melbourne,  selected  in  1876 
along  McDonald's  Track  at  Cruickston.  and  for  many  years  kept  a  store, 
and.  as  stated  previously,  took  an  active  part  in  the  agitation  for  a  railway 
from  Drouin  to  Poo^^ong.  Mr.  R.  J.  Murdoch,  jun..  was  one  of  the  first 
directors  of  the  Poowong  Co-o]3erative  Butter  Factory.  His  brother.  Jas. 
Leslie  Murdoch,  was  for  a  nujnber  of  years  a  director  of  the  same  factory 
also,  and  after  his  brother".s  retirement,  a  meinlKn'  of  the  F'nowono  and  .Teeth'i 
Shire  Council  for  several  years. 

In  1880.  Messrs.  Murdoch,  sen.,  and  M.  Gardner,  as  delegates  from  a 
public  meeting,  obtained  a  grant  of  £-240  from  the  Public  Works  Department 
for  the  purpose  of  clearing  about  two  miles  of  McDonald's  Track,  starting 
where  the  Methodist  Church  now  stands.  This  was  the  first  Government 
money  expended  at  Poowong. 

Mr.  C.  R.  Mail'  nu  the  occa.^ion  of  hi.-  retirement  from  tlie  Sbii'c  ('(tuiicil. 
of  which  he  had  been  a  iiieniber  for  many  year.-,  was  i>rescntcd  with  an  addre.-s 
and  purse  of  sovereigns.  He  was,  Ijesides.  a  justice  of  the  ])eace.  and  took  a 
leading  part  in  all  matters  relating  to  the  i)ublic  welfare.  Mr.  Mair  came  at  first 
from  Brighton  in  1877,  selecting  along  McDonald's  Track  near  Strzelecki.  but 
in  a  few  years  sold  his  block  and  removed  to  the  vicinity  of  Poowong.  He 
was'  also  a  director  in  the  Poowong  Butter  Factory  for  many  years. 

Mr.  Thos.  Adkins.  who  bought  Mr.  Mair's  l)lock,  came  from  l!u>  Talbot 
district,  and  may  be  regarded  as  an  early  pioneer.  Ht  took  considerable 
interest  in  pig  and  sheep  breeding,  especially  the  hittei.  and  earned  the 
reputation  of  one  of  the  most  successful  breeders  of  sheep  in  South  (fipps- 
land.  His'  family  are  still  noted  ])ig  and  she(;p  breeders.  Tn  ;.ddition  to  the 
store  previously  mentioned.  Mr.  Adkins  had  charge  of  the  Post  Office. 

Mr.  R.  O.  Tinnn>.  although  not  a  selector,  came  to  the  district  about  1882 
from  Camperdown.  He  bought  the  blocks  first  selected  by  A.  Fraser  and 
Agnes,  his  daughter,  and  L.  F.  A]:)pleton.  his  son-in-law.  also  those  belongnig 
to  Wm.  and  J.  Lakeland.  He  took  an  active  part  in  public  affairs,  being  a 
Shire  Councillor  foi-  many  years,  also  one  of  tlie  directors  of  the  Poowong 
Butter  Factoi-y.  and  in  1807  he  was  accorded  an  e.\])ressi()n  of  appreciation 
b}'  the  ))eople  of  Poowong  I'oi-  his  public  services,  by  the  presentation  of  a 
])urse  of  sovei-eigns  at  a  l)an<|uet  hehl  in  his  honour.  Tie  was  also  a  Justice  of 
the  Peace.  Mi>.  1(.  < ).  TiniMi.-.  whu-r  maiden  iianic  was  .Margai'd  Mickle 
Lyall.  was  the  lir~t  wiiiic  cliiM  'mhii  in  ilic  W'eslcrnporl  district  at  Tooradin  in 
Febniary.  18")8. 

Mr.  Wm.  Ti-eadweli.  who  was  also  a   member  of  the  Shire  Coinicil  for 

nianv  vcar<.  and  a  dii'cclor  of  llic  Poowong  I'nttcr  l'\-ictorv.  wa-  piT^cntcd  with 


104  THE     PIONEERS     OF     POOWONG, 

a  pur<e  of  soverci.uns  ;i<  a  ])nl)lic  reco.unition  for  his  services.  He  came  from 
the  Horsham  districi  aWout  isso.  and  selected  at  Poowon^  Xorth,  as  also  his 
brothers.  John.  \'iiueiit  iiiid  Thomas.    All  were  reared  in  the  Geelong  district. 

^Ir.  11.  (irego;  came  from  the  Creswick  district  in  1879.  selecting  along  the 
Dronin  road  near  Poowong,  half  of  a  forfeited  block.  Subsecjnenth%  he 
bought  three  other  l)locks.  near  that  which  he  selected.  For  some  time  in  the 
early  days  lie  cn,aa,ae<l  in  the  carryin,<>  business  from  Drouin  to  Poowona, 
afterwards  engaging  in  conti-act  work  for  the  Bnln  Bnln  Shire  Council, 
at  the  same,  time  carrying  on  dairying  and  farming  Avith  his  family.  Mi'. 
Gregg  is  a  member  of  the  Cemetery  Board,  and  has  been  for  many  years. 
One  of  his  sons,  at  the  time  of  the  Boer  War  in  1901,  joined  a  contingent  fi-om 
A'icloria  to  aid  the  Ini|)erial  Army,  and  was  promoted  to  be  a  lieutenant.  ^Ir. 
A.  N.  Gretiii.  the  son  referred  to.  was  for  some  years  a  iiieiii1)er  of  the  Poowoug 
and  .Teetho  Shire  Council. 

Mr.  A.  (lillau.  who  caiiu'  from  the  Creswick  district,  selected  at  PoowouLi,- 
North  in  flanuary  1879.  l)ut  did  not  come  to  reside  on  his  block  until  1885.  He 
was  a  teacher,  and  was  appointed  to  the  State  School  at  Poowong  East.  He 
was  soon,  however,  transferred  to  the  new  school  at  Poowong  Xorth,  which 
he  held  for  upwards  of  nine  years,  when  he  was  superannuated.  He  took  an 
actiA'e  part  in  the i  establishment  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  at  Poowong, 
by  helping  the  i^Si^ssionary  in  taking  services  and  acting  as  secretary  to  the 
Board  of  ^Management.  In  190f).  a  presentation  of  a  Cutler  desk  was  made 
to  him  by  the  congregation  and  friends  in  the  district  in  recognition  of  his 
work  in  the  lines  indicated. 

]\rr.  Tlios.  Houlahan.  who  came  from  Ballarat.  selected  in  1876.  He  was 
a  successful  grazier,  sending  to  market  the  finest  bullocks  in  the  district.  He 
occupied  a  .seal  for  many  years  at  the  Board  of  the  PooAvong  Butter  Factory, 
also  at  the  Cemetery  Board. 

Mr.  AA'^alter  Foreman,  who  came  from  ^lelbom^ne.  Avas  an  early  pioneer, 
and  one  Avho  took  an  active  interest  in  the  agitation  for  raihvay  communi- 
cation to  ^lelboui'ne.  He  Avas  also  a  memlter  of  the  Shire  Council  for  scAeral 
years. 

Two  Avorkmen  in  the  eai'ly  ilays.  Avho  Avere  noted  scrub-cutters,  are  still 
in  the  district.  These  are  David  Sullivan  and  Batty  Stewart,  the  faithful 
day  man  of  the  Shire  Council. 

These  are  a  fcAV  brief  notices  of  a  number  of  the  early  settlers  of  the 
PooAvong  district. 

A  fact  Avorthy  of  notice  respecting  the  settlers  is  the  large  number  of 
teachers  that  selected  and  came  to  the  district. 

Along  McDonald's  Track  Avere  ^Messrs.  Ure  and  son.  Misses  B.  and  M. 
McLean,  and  ]Mr.  and  Mrs.  Burchett :  and  betAveen  PooAvong  and  Loch.  INIr. 
and  Mrs.  Cook,  also  Mr.  E.  Cook  and  ^liss  Leys:  Avhilst  near  Jeetho  were  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  AVilson.  and  ai  Poowong  Xoi'th  A\ere  ^fr.  and  Mrs.  Bee  and  Mr.  and 
^Vfrs.  Gillan. 

It  may  l)e  noted  that  the  first  Aveather-board  house  erected  in  the  district 
of  PooAvoug.  about  1882.  Avas  that  owned  and  occupied  by  Mi-^  ^IcLean  and 
noAv  oAvned  and  occupied  by  Mrs.  Beck. 


Recollections   and   Experiences 


MR.  CALEB  BURCHETT. 


In  A'ietoria,  about  38  years  ago.  then-  was  a  time 
of  great  commercial  and  industrial  de])re*>ion. 
Property  of  all  kinds  depreciated  in  value,  building 
operations  almost  ceased,  large  numbers  of  )nen  were 
unemployed,  and  much  anxiety  AA-as  felt  as  to  the 
future. 

It  was  then  that  the  faces  of  many  were  turned 
towards  the  land,  and  the  discovery  of  the  rich  soils 
of  Brandy  and  Whisky  Creeks  opened  up  to  rapid 
settlement  the  country  which  now  includes  the  ]i()pu- 
lous  and  pro.^perous  towns  of  Drouin  and  Warragiil. 

By  hundreds  people  entered  that  part  of  (li])ps- 
land.  and  in  spite  of  the  absence  of  roads,  railways, 
or  tracks,  proceeded  to  peg  out  the  land  before  sur- 
vey, and  soon  the  whole  available  area  of  good  soil 
was  selected,  and  also  much  inferior  country  adjoin- 
ing, which  remains  with  little  alteration  unimproved 
to  this  day. 

It  was  then  reported  that  good  land  was  to  be  obtained  on  McDonald's 
Track,  Poowong,  and  on  l)Oth  sides  of  the  Bass  river.  It  was  on  Feb- 
ruary ISth.  lS7t),  that  I  arranged  with  young  8am.  Medley  to  go  Avith 
him  into  tliis  new  district.  On  February  24th.  at  al)()ut  S  am.,  we 
took  our  seats  in  a  six-hor.se  coach  at  the  Albion  Hotel.  Boni'ke  st.  It  was  a 
clear,  sunny  morning,  with  a  wind.  Avhich  even  then  was  warm,  from  the 
north.  We  arrived  at  Dandenong  about  11.  and  exicbanged  tlie  coach  foi"  a 
two-horse  waggonette,  and  arrived  at  Cranl)oui'n('  al)out  one  o'clock.  AVe 
pulled  u])  at  Mrs.  Harris's'  old  Moi'iiington  Hotel.  :ind  soon  did  justice  to  a 
good  meal,  in  anticipation  of  a  long  •Jl-mile  walk.  There  was  now  a  fierce, 
hot  wind  blowing,  and  almost  the  whole  country  was  enveloped  in  fire  and 
smoke.  We  passed  through  Sherwood.  Tooi-adin.  and  Tol)in  Yallock.  and 
about  '^  i).m.  arrived  tired,  heated,  dusty  and  bl;u-kened  at  :i  "li;i\'en  of  i'e.st" 
and  comparative  enjoymeiil.  This  was  a  slab  house,  newly  eivcted,  built  and 
o('cii])ied  by  an  intiepid  bii^hmaii.  conniionly  ciilled  ".linnny  BnUer.''  His 
good  wife,  ''Dai'cas"  as  he  called  her.  soon  made  us'  ha])py  in  the  delights 
of  a  ])ail  of  water  and  toAvels.  followed  by  a  splendid  supper  of  i-oast  beef, 
good,  home-made  bread  and  tea  in  plenty.  Theji  we  listened  while  ''Old 
Jiinmv"  told  of  the  exr-ni'sions  in  the  direction  of  the  Upper  T^ang  Tjaitg 
Mild    !),'--  ri\ci-.  jiiid  tliiii   tnicl   of  (•((luit  ry  now    ciijh'd    Poowong. 

Next  (hiy  Snin  nnd  I  wnlkcd  np  McDonald's  Track:  walking  leisui-ely 
and  ciunping  ;it  n  cicek  to  boil  onr  billy  and  take  onr  dinner.  Then  we 
))ushe(|  on  until  we  ciitnc  to  ;i  track  h-ading  into  Mr.  Jjittledike's  selection. 
We  soon  found  his  cani|).  nnd  wsiited  there  till  he  and  his  twf)  men  came  in 
from  their  (lav's  work.    Thev  looked  lilce  aboriginals,  as  they  had  been  "pick- 


106  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

iiiii'  lip."  :i>  it  Avas  called,  after  the  first  burn.  Mr.  Littledike  received  us 
most  hospitably.  He  was  a  true  pioneer  and  one  of  the  best  bushmen  who 
ever  led  settlers  into  South  Gippsland. 

Xext  day.  Saturday,  February  26th,  187G.  my  sood  friend  Mr.  Littledike 
accompanied  us  four  miles  further  up  the  "Track."  Surveyors  were  then 
cuttinir  some  of  the  lines  of  the  blocks  selected.  We  partly  followed  on  their 
work,  but  it  was  hard  and  laborious  toil,  and  it  was  not  till  3.30  p.m.  that  I 
drove  in  the  fourth  peg  with  my  name,  and  the  date  of  pegging  attached. 
It  was  nearly  dark  by  the  time  we  reached  Mr.  Littledike's  camp  again.  We 
passed  Mr.  James  Scott's  selection,  and  it  was  then  I  first  met  that  enter- 
prising jiioneer.  He  was  really  the  first  of  that  heroic  band,  and  was 
followed  by  Mcj-srs.  ]^Iurphy.  Littledike.  Dunlop.  Gardner.  Horsley.  r»n 
ISIcDonald's  Track,  and  aljout  the  same  time  the  early  settlers  on  the  Bass  and 
Alsop  risers,  too  numerous  for  me  to  name  or  particularise,  especially  as  you 
have  arranged  for  papers  from  gentlemen  representing  those  localities. 

The  land  I  then  selected  is  that  on  which  I  now  reside.  It  was  all  covered 
with  dense  scrub  of  hazel,  blackvxood,  musk  and  tree-ferns.  The  large  trees 
were  blue  gum.  with  a  very  fe^^  white  gum.  I  had  to  cut  down  sixty  blue 
gums  on  the  two-acre  site  cleared  for  house  and  garden.  One  of  these  I 
measured  when  felled,  and  it  was  just  over  300  feet. 

I  built  my  house  with  blackwood  poles — four  rooms  and  a  kitchen.  The 
poles  Avere  placed  perpendicidarly :  then  with  a  paling  knife  I  split  out 
enough  laths  to  do  the  whole  interor  of  the  walls,  and  plastered  them  with 
mortar  made  of  the  soil  without  a  particle  of  lime.  Two  of  the  ceilings  also 
were  lathed  and  plastered  with  the  same  materials.  These  four  rooms  are 
still  standing,  with  the  lath  and  plaster  work  in  good  order  after  nearly  40 
jenrs  of  use:  ithe  coolest  house  in  summer  and  the  warmest  in  Winter  to  be 
found  in  Poowong.  I  also  made  and  burnt  a  kiln  of  ()0.000  bricks,  and  with 
some  of  these  built  the  first  underground  cemented  tank  in  the  district,  which 
has  been  a  boon  every  Summer  since.  The  residue  of  the  bricks  I  l^uilt  into 
chimneys  all  around  the  district,  for  which  payment  was  made. 

The  first  religious  service  held  in  the  district  was  an  impromptu  one,  held 
in  a  tent  on  McDonald's  Track,  about  a  mile  west  of  the  site  of  the  township 
of  Poowong.  in  the  early  part  of  the  year  1877.  The  service  was  conducted 
by  the  Rev.  J.  C.  Symonds,  Wesleyan  minister,  during  a  visit  to  one  of  the 
earl}'^  settlors.  Mr.  W.  \.  Hill:  and  at  it  was  celebrated  the  first  christening  in 
the  settlement,  being  that  of  David  M.,  the  infant  sou  of  the  pioneers.  Mr.  and 
Mrs.  James  Scott. 

The  fu-st  church  service  in  Poowong  was  held  in  the  room  where  I  am 
writing  these  notes.  I  wrote  a  notice  and  iiailed  it  to  a  giun  tree  on  McDon- 
ald's Track,  inviting  the  settlers  and  others  to  Divine  Worship.  This  was 
held  on  Sunday,  December  30th,  1877,  at  3  p.m.  Mrs.  Burchett  played  on  our 
harmonium  and  led  the  singing  on  that  occasion,  but  to  her  gi-eat  relief,  on 
the  next  Sabbath  Mr.  Cook  kindl}^  voliuiteered  his  help.  The  congregations 
increased,  and  soon  the  house  was  too  small,  and  at  a  meeting  held,  presided 
over  by  the  late  Mark  Gardner,  -LP.,  it  was  decided  to  build  a  church.  An 
immense  tree  was  felled,  sawn  into  plates,  studs,  joists,  rafters  and  weather- 
boards.   The  present  site  was  chosen.     A  '"Bee"  was  held,  the  ladies  provid- 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 


107 


ing  refreslimenth.  (riant  after  giant  of  the  forest  Avas  laid  low.  and  the  scrub 
cut  and  cleared  back,  and  by  nightfall  the  site  was  ready  to  be  handed  over  to 
the  contractor,  the  late  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes,  who  from  plans  drawn  by  Mr. 
Gardner.  iMithfully  onrried  out  the  A\ork  of  tlie  erection  of  the  first  church. 
Shortly  after  this'  was  opened  the  Education  Department  rented  the  building 
for  a  State  school,  which  was  opened  bv  one  of  our  first  pioneers,  Mr.  Charles 
Cook. 


A   rioNEKir.'<   n()>n:,   istt. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  ALBERT  NICHOLAS. 

Ill  May.  1876,  I  came  to  the  Jeetho  district  from 
Little  River,  near  Geelong.  to  select  land  after 
visiting  Brandy  Creek,  near  Warragiil.  in  compaiw 
with  my  late  father  and  elder  brother.  "We  left  the 
(xrantville  road  at  Tobiii  Yallock  and  started  to  enter 
the  forest,  passing  over  the  Cherry-tree  Rises  and 
Tinpot  Hill,  well  known  to  many  of  the  oldest 
pioneers  as  the  only  ^^  ay  in  to  Poowong.  We  took 
the  Avrong  turn,  and  got  into  the  late  Mr.  H.  Little- 
dike's  holding,  and  after  a  lot  of  wheel  blocking  and 
taking  everything  out  of  the  cart,  the  next  day 
we  arrived  at  Mr.  Wallace-Dunlop's  place,  on 
McDonald's  Track  leading  towards  Sale.  Here  the 
surveyor,  Mr.  Tucker,  came  on  the  scene,  and  as  he 
kiieAv  of  some  land  that  had  been  already  surveyed 
for  someone  wlio  had  not  gone  on  with  it.  my  father, 
after  inspeciion.  selected  a  block.  Avhich  was  later 
recommended  to  him  at  a  Land  Board  that  sat  in 
Melbourne  on  June  2nd,  1876 — less  than  a  month 
after  he  selected.  This  was  no  doubt  quick  work  compared  Avith  the  way 
things  are  done  nowadays,  but  ]3robably  the  fact  of  the  land  being  already 
surveyed  had  somethiug  to  do  with  the  quick  despatch.  On  the  return  journey 
we  met  Mr.  R.  J.  Murdoch  and  his  two  sons  going  up  to  reside  in  Poowong. 
After  the  granting  of  the  land,  we  came  back  at  once  and  did  a  little 
clearing:  l)ut.  owing  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  we  went  home  and  returned 
again  on  August  14th  with  others  who  liad  selected  alongside.  Then  the  "nine 
days'  mizzle."  as  it  was  called  later  on,  started,  and  our  friends  disposed  of 
their  flour,  tea  and  sugar,  and  left  *'the  last  place  that  was  made.'"  Strange  to 
say,  two  of  them  came  back  and  selected  near  Fairbank.  and  still  hold  land 
there. 

Our  firs't  burn  was  a  bad  one,  1)ut  the  growth  of  grass  that  came  on  the 
ashes  gave  us  courage,  and  our  second  burn  was  much  better.  The  seed  was 
sown  on  it  in  February,  and  on  May  16th  following  cattle  were  put  on  the 
grass,  which  was  then  eight  inches  high.  The  sowing  of  English  rye-grass 
got  from  Staughton  Vale  was  considered  to  be  the  best,  but  later  on  the  cater- 
pillars came  in  millions,  and  not  a  gi'een  blade  of  grass  was  to  be  seen  after 
them. 

The  howling  of  wild  dogs  about  caused  us  to  watch,  and  when  Ave  found 
they  came  to  drink  at  a  small  hole  we  had  dug,  we  trapped  one,  and  I 
thought  it  an  aAvful  animal  to  kill.  First  Ave  knocked  it  doAvn  with  a  long 
stick:  then  hit  it,  on  the  tail,  of  course,  with  a  short  hazel  Avaddy  with  a  big 
knob  on  it.  Then  we  carried  him  home,  but  still  he  liA^ed:  so  Ave  hung  him  up 
by  the  hind  legs  and  cut  his  throat.  We  eventually  got  hig  skin,  so  you  may 
conclude  he  died.  A  pack  of  them  killed  and  ate  our  poor  old  dog  Rover 
afterwards,  and  only  left  us  a  fcAv  of  their  toes  as  recompense  for  the  dog. 
After  going  in  for  sheep  Ave  found  the  footrot  very  bad.  and  this,  combined 
Avith  the  "nine  days'  mizzle."  Avild  dogs  and  eagles — the  latter  very  bad  on  the 
young  lambs,  and  A-ery  large:  many  svere  poisoned,  measuring  6ft.  6in.  from 
tip  to  tip  across  the  wings — compelled  us  to  give  up  the  sheep,  and  they  were 
dis'posed  of.  We  had  erected  a  house  and  sheep  yards,  in  Avhich  Ave  put  the 
sheep  evei'A'  night,  but  the  dingoes  got  more  daring  and  came  during  the  day- 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 


109 


time.  I  remember  well  a  large  l)riii(lle  one  returning  for  more  wliile  we  were 
away  home  for  poison. 

In  our  next  Inirning  of  scrub  1  was  .-ur|)iis(_'(l  to  notice  tbc  top.-  nf  a 
small  belt  of  green  l)Iackwoods  burning  while  the  body  of  fire  was  chains 
aW'ay.  This  was  the  last  burn  my  brother  stayed  for;  he  eventually  selected 
in  Omeo,  and  still  resides  there  with  a  large  family.  You  will  admit  he  did 
his  share  towards  makiijg  a  home  for  the  younger  members  of  the  family. 
About  this  time  a  younger  brother  and  my  mother  came  up,  and  a  little 
dairying  was  carried  on,  and  the  road  opened  up  from  Poowong  to  Drouin, 
which  gave  a  shorter  outlet  tor  produce  and  for  stores  coming  in.  Prices 
for  potted  buUer  were  often  only  l|-d.  per  lb.  in  INIelbourne. 

Messrs.  Murdoch  and  Sons,  l)efore  opening  a  general  store  at  Cruikston, 
got  a  Mr.  Emerson  to  burn  a  Iciln  of  l)rick!s  for  them,  which  were  used  in  the 
chimney  of  the  commodious  residence  and  store  they  built. 

People  living  in  tne  disti-ict  to-day  would  hardly  believe  that  Hour  was 
ij-2/lO/-  per  bag,  sugar  Gd.  per  lb.,  and  beef  tb.e  same,  and  other  prices  just 
as  high  in  comparison ;  but  it  is  not  to  be  Avondered  at  when  all  stores  had  to 
be  carted  from  the  Ked  BlutF  by  a  narrow  track  with  mud  up  to  the  axle, 
and  hazel  scrub  ab(tut  oO  feet  high  on  each  side. 

Early  in  1877  Mr.  Willie  Hill,  a  selector  over  the  Bass,  whose  father 
was  chaplain  of  the  Melbourne  Gaol,  and  was  murdered  there,  took  some 
interest  in  getting  up  Divine  service  in  an  enclosure  at  the  top  of  Scott's  hill, 
at  the  junction  of  McDonald's  Track,  the  only  track  over  the  Bass  towards 
Bena :  the  Kev.  J.  C  Symons  officiating.  A  tent  was  erected,  and  service 
held:  and  ^Nlr.  D.  M.  Scott,  of  Korunibui'ra.  was  the  first  child  christened 
there.  In  the  early  days  of  Poowong  his  ])arents  kept  a  store  there,  and  were 
always  very  kind  to  visitors  who  wero,  like  themselves.  .stri\ing  to  make  a 
home  in  this  \ast  Avildeniess. 


A     I'AI.IXC     IIO.MKS'l'K'AT). 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  T.  W.  HORSLEY. 


The  writer  eau  claim  to  be  one  of  the  very 
earliest  pioneers  of  South  Gippslaiid,  having  settled 
in  Poowong  as  a  boy  in  the  year  1877 — 38  years 
ago.  The  journey  to  (lippsland  in  those  days  was  a 
long  and  tedious  one.  On  the  19th  of  -January,  1877, 
I,  in  company  witli  my  father  and  other  early 
settlers,  left  the  Albion  Hotel,  Bourke-street,  by 
coach  at  8  a.m.,  and  proceeded  to  Tobin  Yallock, 
now  known  a.s  Lang  Lang,  which  we  reached  at  5 
p.m.,  and  then  started  to  walk  to  Poowong,  a  dis- 
tance of  18  miles,  and  my  first  night  in  Gippsland 
was  spent  in  a  tent  on  the  hill  known  as  Tinpot. 
Next  morning  we  continued  our  journey,  and  reached 
Poowong  at  midday.  My  first  impressions  of  Gipps- 
land were  not  too  favourable,  the  country  being  one 
dense  mass  of  scrub  and  tall  trees,  only  one  or  t^vo 
of  the  very  earliest  settlers  having  any  cleared 
ground,  and  such  luxuries  as  having  a  cow  to  milk 
or  a  horse  to  ride  were  unknown,  as  grass  on  nearly 
all  the  selections  w'as  a  negligible  quantity.  The  chief 
difficulty  of  the  early  settlers  was  to  obtain  supplies,  all  goods  havdng  to  come 
by  boat  from  ^Melbourne  to  the  Red  Blufl^  at  ^^'esternport,  and  thence  carted 
to  Poowong,  a  distance  of  1()  miles. 

I  was  one  of  the  first  scholars  at  the  Poowong  State  school,  of  which  ]\Ir. 
Chas.  Cook  was  the  first  teacher.  I  also  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  the 
first  church  s'ervice  held  in  the  district,  which  was  conducted  by  the  Rev.  J. 
C.  S.ymons  in  a  tent  on  what  was  then  knoAvn  as  Scott's  Hill,  at  the  junction 
of  McDonald's  Track  with  the  south  track.  After  being  in  Poowong  six 
years  I  selected  in  the  Parish  of  Jumbunna  East,  the  block  I  secured  being 
forfeited  by  a  Mr.  Hill;  and  Mr.  Jno.  Glew,  the  earliest  pioneer  in  Jumbunna, 
piloted  me  over  the  land.  For  several  years  I  was  engaged  in  clearing  and 
working  on  my  land,  living  in  a  tent  and  a  rough  bush  hut.  and  having  to 
undergo  all  the  hardships  of  camp  life;  and  not  being  able  to  obtain  supplies, 
it  was  difficult  at  times  to  get  enough  to  eat.  My  most  lively  recollection  in 
this  respect  was  of  having  to  live  on  wallaby  and  wdieaten  meal  for  a  fort- 
night. Although  the  life  was  hard,  itime  was  found  for  a  little  pleasure,  and 
a  debating  society  was  formed,  the  meetings  being  held  at  the  house  of  Mr. 
Murdoch  McLeod,  and  occasionally  we  would  indulge  in  a  game  of  cricket, 
thinking  nothing  of  journeying  to  Kilcunda  or  the  Powlett  for  the  pleasure. 
With  the  advent  of  other  settlers  and  the  opening  up  of  the  country,  the 
impro^ements  in  roads'  and  Ha  ing  conditions,  life  became  more  pleasant,  and 
I  have  no  cause  to  regret  ha\'ing  been  one  of  the  earliest  settlers  in  the  Jum- 
bimna  and  Movarra  districts. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  T.  J   COVERDALE. 


out  who  were  sictually 
scrub. 

The    first, 
pedition.     wIki 


There  is  a  great  fascination  for  most  people  in  the 
early  records  of  those  places  that  ha^e  been  won  from 
the  wilderness  by  the  hand  of  man  and  made  centres 
of  industry  and  civilisation.  Later  generations 
wonder  and  speculate  as  to  what  some  particular 
l)lace  Avas  like  in  its  w-ild  state;  who  was  the  first 
white  man  to  set  foot  in  it,  and  what  he  was  after; 
Avho  were  the  first  pioneers,  what  they  did  and 
Avhere  they  came  fi-om.  And  it  is  well  that  those 
Avho  came  first  should  leave  behind  them  some  ac- 
<  omit  of  what  the  country  was  like  then,  what  they 
did,  what  were  their  experiences  and  what  their 
impressions,  ere  it  be  all  forgotten  in  the  oblivion 
of  an  unrecorded  past.  To  this  end  I  have  been 
invited  to  contril)Ute  an  account  of  that  part  of 
South  (jippsland  in  which  I  settled  first,  viz..  the 
district  of  Poowong  and  Jeetho,  with  my  pioneering 
experiences  therein.  In  so  doing  I  thought  it  might 
be  interesting  to  begin  at  the  lieginning  and  find 
the  first  white  men  to    penetrate    the    wilderness    of 


then,  were  the  members  of  the  Alacarthnr-Sirzclccki  ex- 
])asse<l  through  this  district  from  ^'ass  riaiii>.  N.S.W'., 
m  ^lay.  1S4I>.  'I"hc  purpose  i>f  thi<  cxiicditioii  was  to  cx))lore 
the  country  southward  to  A\'ils(»ir>  I'loinoutory.  and  in  the  direc- 
tion of  W&sternport.  It  consisted  of  .biiiics  Macarthur.  Count 
Strzelecki.  ^.  Hiley,  and  two  (»tlior  wliitc  men  with  a  black  boy.  Charlie 
Tarra  :  and  they  had  with  tlu-ni  six  horse,-.  .Macarthur.  who.  by  the  way.  was 
the  son  of  the  man  who  introduced  merino  sheep  into  Australia,  organised  the 
expeditioij  and  financed  it  at  a  cost  of  £500,  his  object  being  to  explore  the 
coiiutrv  for  pastoral  i)iirposes.  Strzelecki  Avas  the  "mivigating  lieutenant"  of 
the  i)arty.  and  was  glad  of  the  ()i)portunity  atl'orded  him  of  inaking  cei'tain 
scientific  oltservation  he  had  long  been  d(>s<rous  of  undertak'ing.  Tint  it  is 
curious  how  his  name  has  l»ecome  so  ])rominently  associated  with  this  ex])edi- 
tiou  to  the  exclusion  ahiio^t  of  that  of  MacaiMJuir:' wli(»  promoted  and  rmaiu-cd 
it.  Starting  on  January,  1840.  thcA^  crossed  the  Lai  robe  Kiver.  (iippsland, 
on  the  ir)th  of  April,  and  soon  aftei-wards.  rmi'iing  slioi-t  of  pro\  isions.  they 
decided  to  at  once  make  for  llic  ol<l  -;('ltl('iii"iil  at  Westeruport.  "Then,  on 
the  '.Ttb  of  Apiil."  -ay-  .Macanlinr.  "we  abaiid(tncd  IJic  lioi--(  s  and  proceeded 
on  onr  way  without  pi(»\  ision.s  except  monkey  beai-s.  till  May  the  12th:  on 
that  <lay  w(  leached  \\'e-,terni)ort.  where  W(>  Avere  kindly  entei'taiiu'd  by  Mr. 
Bcnv  and  ^Ir.  [Jo-s  and  Me<sr->.  ^lassie  and  .Vnderson.  wlio  tiien  oceui)ied  that 
country,  ami  iemained  there  se\ei'al  days,  i-egaining  onr  >l  reiigl  ii."  Thence 
h\  boat  and  on   fool   iliey  renelied   Melbonnie. 

The  location  of  tln-ii'  l)arl<  ihroiiiiii  this  conntry  has  often  been  debated. 
By  the  conitesy  of  Mr.  Saxlon.  of  the  Lands  Dejiarlnient.  ^lelltonine.  I  ob- 
tauiefj  a  tracing  of  a  map  of  his  route  which  was  gi\-en  liy  Strzelecki  to   J. 


112  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Rilev:  j^lacini:"  this  on  a  moderii  map  of  the  district  of  the  same  scale  and 
carefulJy  co-oiHlinating  tliem  by  means  of  common  data,  the  route  of  the  ex- 
pedition is  ck'arly  indicated  (see  plan).  The  position  of  this  line  was 
scientifically  determined  by  Strzelecki,  and  the  accuracy  with  which  he  struck 
his  objective  through  the  dense  scrub  and  o^er  broken  country  testifies  to  his 
skdl  and  the  exactitude  of  his  calculations. 

The  map  given  to  Eiley  is  thus  humorously  and  sigTiificantly  dedicated 
••^lelbourne,  June  26.  1840.  To  his  felloAv  monkey-eater  Rilev.  From  E.  P.  de 
Strz.-' 

Some  time  after  Riley  and  C'harlej'  Tarra.  with  two  companions,  went 
back  to  the  spot  where  the  horses  were  abandoned  and  recovered  the  properties, 
finding  one  horse  dead  and  another  alive:  the  others  had  disappeared. 

In  1841  Brodribb,  with  Kirsop  and  McLeod.  came  through  from  the 
Latrobe.  He  saj'S,  in  his  ••Recollections*  :  •'AVe  thought  to  avoid  the  diffi- 
culties Count  Strzelecki  encountered  by  keeping  some  miles  north  of  his 
course,  but  had  great  difficulty  on  account  of  the  dense  scrub.  AVe  took  it 
in  turn  to  cut  away  the  scrub  to  allow  our  horses  to  proceed,  keeping  as 
nearly  as  possible  due  west.  On  the  tenth  day  we  came  out  on  some  rough 
coarse  grass  which  our  horses  ate  with  relish,  and  camped  one  day.  We  then 
proceeded  along  a  high  range  with  scrub  on  each  side  for  some  distance,  and 
two  days  later  arrived  at  Dr.  Jameson's  station,  "Westernport." 

The  next  explorer  to  venture  into  the  ini known  in  this  i^art  of  the  Avorld 
was  one  Odell  Raymond  in  184-2.  He  had  taken  up  country  on  the  Avon 
river,  and  a  friend  of  his,  one  Campbell,  who  had  ridden  <()iiie  niile>  to  uie 
westward,  returned  with  a  story  that  he  had  sighted  Wesiternport  from  the 
top  of  a  high  hill.  From  personal  obser\ation  and  bitter  experience  later 
on.  Raymond  declared  this  "must  have  been  a  damned  lie."  HoweAcr.  he  be- 
lieved it  at  the  time,  and  set  off  with  two  white  men,  Brodribb  and  Pearson, 
and  a  black  boy  to  find  the  Bay  and  cattle  country.  He  started  on  Strzelecki's 
trail,  and  followed  it  pretty  closely  all  the  way;  but  our  inhospitable  country 
was  no  kinder  to  him  than  to  the  Count,  for  he  also  nearly  perished  by  the 
way.  An  allowance  of  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  and  a  snack  of  bear  each 
per  day  was  all  they  had  for  fourteen  days,  and  for  ten  days  of  that  time  it 
rained  without  ceasing.  They  were  cut  to  i)ieces  with  swordgrass.  and,  with 
"their  clothes  and  boots'  torn  completely  otl'  them,"  they  reached  the  Bay  at 
last  a  little  north  of  wdiere  Strzelecki  struck  it. 

The  next  adA'enturer  was  McDonald,  who  in  1862  completed  the  survey  of 
the  '"Tracik,"  now  a  great  highway  that  l)ears  his  name.  Tlie  ])i:ui  of  his 
survey  is  thus  endor.sed: — "'Plan  of  trial  .survey  from  ISIelbourne  to  (ripp.sland, 
via  Cranbourne  and  Yallock.  Diverging  from  the  Lower  (Ti})ps]an(l  road  at 
Yalloclv  Bridge  and  joining  the  Upper  road  at  Morwell  Bridge. — (1.  T. 
McDonald."  The  "Yallock"  referred  to  is  now  known  as  "Tobinyallock," 
and  the  stream  as  the  Lang  Lang  river:  the  track  thence  to  ^Nlorwell  was 
seventy  miles  in  length,  and  from  McDonald's  field  notes  I  take  tlie  following 
remarks.  The  country  where  the  town  of  Poowong  now  stands  he  describes 
as  "'dense  hazel  and  musk  scrub,  timbered  with  large  wliite  gums,  mo.stly  dead." 
Fifteen  miles  further  east  it  is  "thick  scrub,  timber  all  dead  and  ground 
thickly  strewn  with  fallen  timber."  Ten  miles  further  it  is — "timber  all 
green,  scrub  more  gross,  l^ut  not  so  dense." 

As  the  pioneer  surveyor  of  the  district  and  one  in  whose  footsteps  the 
earliest  settlers  trod  a  short  account  of  McDonald  will  not  be  out  of  pbu-e 
here,  nor  uninteres'tina'  to  mam    who  have  often  wondered  who  he  was  and 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  113 

whence  he  came:  and  to  Mv.  .}.  (t.  Saxton  again  I  am  indebted  for  the  t'()lh)w- 
ing  brief  sketch : — 

■■]Mr.  (jr.  T.  McDonaUl  Avas  a  iiati\  e  of  Dumfries,  Scothmd.  He  arrived  in 
Victoria  in  1853.  and  did  much  good  work  as  a  surveyor  in  this  State.  In 
1870  he  married  a  daughter  of  the  Hon.  AV.  ¥.  ]\Iitchell.  and  eight  years  later 
went  to  Queensland,  entering  the  survey  department  there.  He  also  took  up 
land  in  that  State,  where  he  resided  Avith  iiis  family  for  thirty-seven  years. 
He  died  at  Wynnum.  a  suburlj  of  Brisl)ane.  in  11)15.  in  the  eightieth  yvav  of 
his  age;  he  was  an  honest  Avorkman  and  a  genial,  kindly  gentleman.'" 

In  1S69  or  1870  Surveyor  IrAvin  erected  the  Trig,  station  at  Mt.  Lyell, 
but  that  Avas  all  the  history  he  contributed  to  the  local  annals. 

In  about  the  year  1870  or  a  little  hiter  Usher  ran  a  track  from  Tobin- 
jallock  through  this  country  to  Foster,  but  it  was  too  rough,  and  was  aban- 
doned. 

In  1873  Turner,  a  mining  surveyor,  made  a  surA'ej^  which  is  styled: 
^'Survey  plan  of  connecting  line  from  Coal  fields  at  Strzelecki  Kanges  to 
Anderson's  Inlet.  South  Gippsland.''  Starting  Avell  up  the  inlet,  it  crossed 
the  plains,  and.  picking  up  the  Outtrim  ridge,  came  up  through  the  site  of 
Jumbunna  to  about  a  mile  or  a  little  more  north  of  where  Korumburra  uoav 
stands,  following  the  main  tli\  ide. 

Xext  came  "VVhitelaw  in  1.^74.  His  siu-vev  is  termed  "Plan  of  Pack  Horse 
Track  betAveer.  Foster  and  .Ml.  Lyell.  date"  1-2/8/76.''  This  followed  the 
Whitehnv  Pidge  from  McDonald's  Track  thi'ough  the  site  of  Korumburra 
and  along  the  Mine  road  past  the  old  bore,  then  across  Coal  Creek  south- 
easterly to  Foster.  Reginald  ^lurray.  in  his  geological  map  of  1875,  shows 
another  track  Avhich  he  calls  ""WhitelaAv's  Ti-ack."  running  from  the  old 
bore  t')  McDonald's  Track  and  about  a  mile  to  the  east  of  the  ridge:  also 
another  lea\  ing  Whiteiaw's  ridge  about  a  mile  nortli  of  Korumburra.  making 
northerly  and  A^est('l•ly  and  crossing  the  Bass  in  Mr.  Henry's  block  and  about 
tAvo  miles  Avest  of  the  ridge.  Tlien  turning  sharply  to  the  north-east  it  re- 
gained ^^'hitehlAv's  ridge  a  mile  below  the  ^IcDonald's  Track  -Junction.  This 
he  calls  Turner's  track.  But.  as  there  are  no  official  plans  in  the  Lands  Office 
showing  these  routes,  they  were  ]irol)ably  trial   sui'\eys. 

I  WL'll  remember  the  lir.-t  time  1  .--aw  the  old  \\'liit('law"s  ti'ack.  (iaiTard 
and  O'lTi-ady  had  just  pitched  a  big  surAey  camp  <>n  a  triiiiitary  of  the  Bass, 
about  half  way  betAveen  McDonald's  Track  and  the  place  where  the  \Miitelaw 
raihvay  .-tat ion  uoav  stands,  prepai'atory  to  stirveying  the  country  round  the 
head  of  the  Bass  rixer  foi'  o("U|)ation;  and.  with  several  other  land  hunters, 
I  Avas  '•jnnj)ed  near  them.  There  Avas  a  rumour  about  in  camp  (d'  an  old 
track  somewhere  to  the  south-east,  and  taking  a  Sunday  olf  I  set  out  with  a 
man  from  the  camj)  to  ijivestigate.  After  half  a  day's  scrambling  through 
the  scrub.  Ave  struck  it  in  the  south-east  corner  of  what  is  now  known  as  H. 
F.  AYiliiams's  block — then  applied  for  by  one  .1.  Mattlu  ws,  and  later  held  by 
him.  The  road  here  Avas  sul)se(|uent]y  altered  to  its  |)resent  position  by 
Surveyor  Lardner.  Where  we  struck  it  the  liaek  was  then  about  eight  feet 
wide  and  messed  uj)  with  fallen  stuH:  Imi.  after  following  it  for  a  short  dis- 
tance eastAvard.  it  suddenly  ojX'Med  out  into  a  well-cleared  dray  ti-ack  about 
half  a  chain  in  Avidth.  Avhich.  sifter  eoiil inning  about  a  mile  or  more,  ended 
just  as  abi-uptly.  On  this  old  clearing  and  in  Hccles'  block  about  a  (piarter  of 
a  mile  north  of  Avhere  the  Kornmbnira  reservoir  now  is.  we  came  on  an  old 
deserted  camp  of  considerable  exii-nt  that  lia<l  exidently  been  abandoned  in  a 


114  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

hiiiTv.  or  with  the  intention  never  fulfilled,  of  returning-  to  it  again,  as  all  the 
paraphernalia  and  implements  of  the  camp  lay  rotting  and  rust-eaten  around. 
It  looked  as  if  they  had  just  started  to  widen  the  track  for  the  proposed  road 
between  Foster  and  Mt.  Lvell  and  then  abandoned  the  idea.  The  decline  of 
the  mines  mig-ht  account  for  this',  but  why  was  the  camp  deserted  so  suddenh'? 
One,  Silas  leaker  (brother  of  old  Jimmy),  who  lived  at  Tol)inyallock  over 
forty  years  go,  told  me  he  had  seen  the  men  passing  through  there  on  their 
way  to  ^Melbourne.  They  were  half  starved,  and  told  him  the  boss  had  left 
them  and  had  not  returned,  and  they  had  no  tucker.  Another  account  states 
that  some  of  them  went  south  to  Foster,  whence  they  got  their  supplies,  and 
could  not  reach  there  on  account  of  the  big  floods  in  the  Tarwin  and  the 
Foster  ri^■ers.  Probably  these  were  the  packers:  and  on  their  falling  ta 
return  on  account  of  the  floods,  the  others  had  to  clear  out  northward  to  the 
nearest  settlements  for  food. 

However  lluil  may  be.  none  of  them  ever  returned  to  the 
old  camp,  and  the  through  road  to  Foster  was  abandoned.  But 
the  cleared  ])ortion  formed  a  beautiful  ''.simatorium"  for  all  the  snakes  in  the 
district,  being  the  only  spot  where  the}^  could  find  a  "place  in  the  sun";  and 
most  of  them  must  have  a^  ailed  themselves  of  it.  for  we  killed  seven  or  eight 
in  a  vevy  short  time,  and  many  got  away.  ]My  companion's  sight  was  not 
very  good  at  any  time,  and,  to  complicate  matters,  he  had  recently  been 
''liquefying"  his  assets  so  successfully  at  a  pub.  on  the  road  up  that  he  could 
not  always  tell  the  real  .snakes  from  the  others:  so  we  shortly  took  to  the  scrub 
again  and  left  at  least  one  variety — the  most  dangerous — Ijehind.  They  were 
inclined  to  doubt  (Mn-  discovery  at  the  camp  (the  condition  of  my  companion 
perhaps  had  something  to  do  with  this),  jjnt  knowing  the  reserve  with  which 
the  accounts  of  even  the  most  veracious  travellers  are  often  received  I  had 
thoughtfully  provided  myself  with  corroborative  evidence  in  the  shape  of  a 
crockery  ])late.  picked  up  from  a  number  lying  round  the  old  camp.  As  the 
crockery  age  had  not  arrived  with  us.  this  was  accepted  as  conclusive:  one 
man  remarking  "they  must  have  been  bloomin"  toll's  to  go  in  for  them  things 
h^re." 

In  1873-4:  Mr.  Eeginald  ^lurray  made  a  goelogical  .survey  of  these  ranges^ 
and  his  necessarily  rough  })lotting  of  the  creeks  and  ridges  was  wonderfully 
accurate,  considering  the  nature  of  the  country,  as  revealed  later  by  the  clear- 
ing of  the  scrub.  He.  too.  on  at  least  one  occa.sion  found  the  •'eternal  food 
question""  acutely  urgent. 

Such  is  the  brief  story  of  some  of  the  first  adventurers  into  the  un- 
trodden scrub.  The  scrub  no  doubt  had  a  charm  for  many:  it  may  have  been 
the  charm  of  the  unknown,  for  the  unknoAvn  was  always  close  around  you. 
The  forest  of  bare  poles — umbrageous  trees  under  other  conditions — ^that 
seemed  to  have  thrown  off  all  their  gai-ments  so  as  to  beat  each  other  in  a  mad 
race  toward  the  clouds,  and  to  stand  around  Avith  nothing  but  their  hats  on. 
together  with  underirrowth  up  to  your  head,  prevented  you  from  .seeing  what 
was  going  to  turn  up  next.  You  might  stumble  on  to  a  precii^ice.  a  river,  or  a 
mountain,  all  invisible  a  few  minutes  before.  Perhaps  the  scrub  would  change 
from  musk  to  hazel,  or  from  hazel  to  musk,  oi-  from  either  to  sapling  country, 
where  the  great  old  forest  trees  suddenly  disappeared  or  lay  around  like 
giants  slain  on  the  battlefield  of  some  elemental  Avar:  and  you  Avonder  what 
is  the  reason  of  it  and  hoAv  it  all  came  about,  and  speculate  as  to  the  solution 
of  a  hundred  other  i:)roblems  that  a  day's  march  through  the  scrub  suggested.. 
Your  eye.  ahvavs  on  the  loolvout  for  siirns.  notes  a  mark  on  a  tree:  it  mav  be 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  115 

only  a  scar  caused  long  ago  by  a  falling  limb  or  tree,  or  it  may  l)e  an  old 
blaze.  You  pull  away  the  moss  aiid  examine  it  carefully;  it  is  only  a  hole 
noAY  three  or  four  inches  deep  and  as  many  wide:  soon  the  sap  will  have 
covered  it  completely.  The  woodlice  are  scuttling  about  inside,  and  yon  brush 
them  aAvay,  together  wilh  the  poAvderings  they  always  surround  themselves 
with,  and  peer  curiously  in.  Then  you  see  something  you  can  swear  to — 
something  you  half  expected  to  find — it  is  the  mark  of  a  white  man's 
axel  The  axe  had  reached  the  redwood,  and  it  is  taking  the  old  tree  a  long 
time  to  heal  the  wound — a  little  deeper  and  life  would  have  been  too  short 
for  it  lo  do  so.  But  whose  was  the  hand  that  made  it  so  long  ago'  What 
Avas  he  after  there  s(.  far  from  the  tracks  of  the  known  wanderers  in  the  wilds? 
Was  he  lost  (  And  if  so  did  he  get  out  alive,  or  did  he  perish  there  a  wan- 
derer in  the  solitude  of  scrub — '"so  the  voiceless  bush  might  fold  him  in  lier 
arms  of  gruesome  gloom?" 

But  it  was  an  exceedingly  rare  thing  to  come  on  a  very  old  blaze.  I 
remember  once  knocking  the  ^apwood  otf  a  (juartered  post,  and  under  a  bulge 
in  the  sap  an  old  blaze  came  to  light.  The  redwood  had  become  dead  at  the 
blaze  before  the  sap  covered  it.  and  there  was  no  elective  attachment  between 
them.  A  sa])ling  will  soon  cover  over  a  blaze,  but  an  old  tree  takes  much 
longer — a  large  I)Iaze  it  may  never  co^er.  But  a  detailed  account  of  the  scrub 
and  it^  ways  I  do  not  propose  to  give  here,  as  that  ha>  been  done  elsewhere. 

There  was  a  good  deal  of  bird  and  animal  life  in  the  scrub.  AA'allabies, 
of  which  there  were  several  kinds,  were  numerous,  but  there  were  no 
kangaroos.  Monkev  bears  and  opossums  were  also  numerous.  Besides  these 
there  were  dingoes,  wombats,  tiger  cats,  bush  rats,  pugney  jjossums  and  Hying 
squirrels,  together  with  a  varied  assortment  of  snakes,  lizards,  scorpions  and 
other  creei>iug  tilings.  And  yon  might  often  see  a  platypus  disporting  him- 
self in  the  creeks  which  contained  at  one  time  a  good  deal  of  black  fish,  eels 
and  a  small  kiiul  of  spotted  trout.  Snakes  were  not  nearly  so  numerous  in 
the  scrub  as  they  became  afterwards  when  the  country  was  cleared.  (1  am 
conscious  licre  of  a  great  temptation.  l)ut  have  grace  to  resist.) 

Birds  were  nnmei'ous,  and  ther?  were  many  varieties,  from  eagles  to 
wrens,  including  jays,  satin  birds,  lyre  birds.  Derwent  or  whistling  jacks, 
gi'ound  lhrti-Iie>.  \\hi|)  birds.  wo()(lj)eckers.  lealhei'heads.  pai'i'ots.  l)lack 
cockatoos,  laiiiiliing  jackasses,  with  an  assortment  of  wrens,  besides  many 
mopok(  s  and  owls  for  night  duty.  There  were  no  white  cockatoos.  l)l;i(l<  and 
white  magpies  mov  crows  when  we  came.  After  the  first  few  years  (he  mag- 
pies began  to  come,  much  to  the  disgust  of  the  jays,  who  fought  them  viciously 
for  years.  ])in  were  beaten  in  the  end.  And  now  there  ai-e  \ery  few  of  the 
jays  aboiil.  'i'he  white  cockatoos  never  came,  and  only  ixasionally  in  the 
Summer  will  yon  se(>  a  few  crows.  Satui  birds  were  a  nuisance  lo  those  living 
the  simple  life.  They  were  notor-ioiis  tliiexcs.  and  made  no  sciiiple  about 
Ijiirirling  the  pi-imitive  and  ol'ieii  not  too  well  >iock-ed  lai'ders  of  scrub  cullers 
or  selectors.  It'  ihev  conhl  not  get  in  liy  the  door  they  would  go  down  the 
chimnev.  which  usually  ollei-ed  great  facilities  for  this  mode  of  entry.  The 
jays  wei'e  no  better:  soap  was  lluir  fa\(Mirile  deliciicw  and  if  yon  left  a  bit  on 
the  bench  you  need  not  bother  to  look  for  it  when  yon  came  home  at  night. 
There  were  a  few  bhu'  satin  birds;  these  are  the  niahv  who  attain  the  colour 
when  seven  years  old :  though  some  niainlain  the  members  of  both  sexes 
have  the  right  to  don  the  blue  on  attaining  the  full  age  of  nine  yeai-s. 
If  so.  as  there  were  onlv  ab.ait  ten  or  fifteen  per  cent.  (»f  blues,  they  cannot 
be  a   Aci'V  lon<:'  li\<'d   race.     The  itird-  did   not   sing  nnich    in    the    scrub    in 


lie,  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

Winter,  the  most  vocal  being  the  whistling  jackasses,  the  h^re  birds  and  the 
laughing  jackasses.  Bnt  occasionally  on  a  wet  day  the  jays  would  make  a 
great  noise  with  their  cry  of  ''two-and-two  are  four,  two-and-tAvo  are  four."' 
There  was  generally  a  lyre  bird  or  two  at  hand  yeli)ing  out  its  own  far- 
carrying  note,  or  taking  the  parts  by  turns  and  with  rapid  changes 
of  all  the  other  performers  in  the  forest  orchestra.  Wliile  singing,  the  cock 
bird  dances  round  on  a  mound  of  earth  about  three  feet  across  and  one  in 
height  built  for  the  purpose.  Most  of  the  birds  had  a  good  deal  to  say  in 
the  Spring,  especially  in  the  early  morning  and  at  the  turn  of  the  day  al30ut 
four  o'clock.  The  whip  bird  especially  would  then  have  many  remarks  to 
make  in  his  peculiar  "cracked"  voice,  which  Avere  invariably  and  immediately 
endorsed,  encored,  or  approved  of  by  his  mate,  with  her  "cheep-cheep."  which 
might  mean  "hear,  hear"  or  "that's  so."  The  lyre  birds  are  bad  sleepers,  and 
on  moonlight  nights  would  often  wake  up  at  all  hours  to  try  over  a  few 
bards  of  some  parrot,  cockatoo  or  jay  bird  ditty.  But  the  voice  of  a  wakeful 
lyre  bird  was  not  the  only  sound  that  vexed  the  silence  of  the  night. 

Soon  after  nightfall  and  far  away  in  the  scrub  you  would  hear  the  dismal 
howl  of  a  dmgo,  answered  the  next  moment  by  anoiher  and  still  another,  till 
half  a  dozen  of  the  brutes  were  making  the  night  hideous  with  their  long-drawn 
mournful  cry.  This  would  be  sure  to  start  a  few  old  bears,  who  would  growl 
out  a  warning  note,  or  perhaps  an  assurance  that  all  was  well  so  far.  The 
dingoes  were  the  deadly  enemies  of  the  bears,  killing  numbers  of  them  when 
the  latter  came  down  to  change  trees  or  to  feed  on  the  young  grass,  which 
they  were  fond  of.  Then  a  couple  of  opossinns  wotdd  start  fighting  or  love 
making,  neither  of  which  they  seemed  able  to  do  without  a  lot  of  noisy 
tuttering;  or  a  flying  squirrel  would  take  his  chattering  flight  from  the  top  of 
some  high  tree  and  end  it  with  a  flop  again  the  trunk  of  another.  The 
mopokes  and  the  owds  were  nearly  always  "on  the  flute"  somewhere  after  sun- 
down; while  a  startled  bandicoot  would  often  run  "sneezing"  off  among  the 
midergrowth.  There  was  no  cry  of  any  animal  heard  in  the  scrub  in  the 
daytime  except  that  of  a  bear  or  occasionally  some  prowling  dingo.  The 
bears  would  always  utter  their  slow^  gurgling  growl  after  a  sudden  noise, 
such  as  the  crash  of  a  falling  tree  or  a  loud  clap  of  thunder. 

Such  was  the  scrub  with  its  birds  and  its  beasts,  its  pioneers  and  its 
problems  Avhen  1  first  knew  it  in  the  year  1S7T.  One  morning  in  June  of  that 
year  my  brother  George  and  I  boarded  the  Crrantville  coach  at  the  old  Albion 
Hotel,  Bourke-streei.  bound  for  South  Gippsland.  We  had  a  good  run  out 
to  Dandenong.  where  we  changed  horses  and  then  spanked  along  to  the  old 
Sherwood  Hotel,  where  we  left  the  mails  and  a  few  sixpences  and  stopped 
for  dinner  further  on  at  Tooradin.  Soon  after  leaving  there  we  got  into 
trouble,  for  the  roads  were  frightfully  bad;  we  had  to  walk  for  miles,  the 
Yallock  lane  especially  being  Aery  bad.  About  a  mile  from  Tobinyallock  Ave 
got  aboard  again  and  droA^e  up  to  the  store  that  then  stood  at  the  corner  of 
the  Grantville  road.  It  Avas  surrounded  l)y  a  sea  of  mud,  l>ut  some  thoughtful 
person  had  built  a  wharf  about  fortj^  feet  long  out  from  the  store,  at  the  end 
of  which  the  coach  berthed,  and  the  passengers  Avalked  ashore.  But  there 
was  no  accommodation  to  be  had  there,  so  we  had  to  go  a  mile  further  on  to 
a  settler's  place  on  McDonald's  Track  (Baker's).  Mrs.  Baker  receiA^ed  us 
with  dismay:  she  said  she  had  no  accommodation  for  Ansitors,  and  she  was 
alAvays  telling  people  so,  but  they  ""Avould  keep  on  a'comin'."  AVe  had  been 
prepared  for  this,  and  sympathised  Avith  her  earnestly,  but  pointed  out  that 
ours  was  quite  an  exceptional  case.  We  succeeded  at  last  in  getting  a  shake- 
down.    Keeping   a    place   of   accommodation   Avas   quite   foi'cign   to  the  ynnn- 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  117 

lady's  ideas  and  ways  of  lil'e.  But  being-  more  g-ood-natured  than  strong- 
minded,  and  seeing  that  people  ''Avould  keep  on  a'comin'."  she  had  to  make 
provision  for  them  at  last  in  sheer  self-defence.  Later  on  they  kept  accom- 
modation paddocks  as  well,  and  many  a  time  when  travelling  with  cattle  we 
would  put  in  the  night  there  listening  to  old  "Jimm.y'"  Baker's  3^arns  of  the 
early  days.  He  was  quite  a  character  in  his  own  way,  and  very  entertaining^ 
when  you  got  him  fairly  going.  He  was  much  after  the  style  of  '"Dad"  in 
'"On  Our  Selection."  He  often  told  me  that  when  he  started  there  he  "hadn't 
had  nothing  only  half-a-crowii,  a  bag  of  flour  and  the  family."  But  I  was 
never  sure  as  to  whether  he  classed  the  latter  as  an  asset  or  a  liability. 

Xext  morning  we  started  on  foot  for  PooAvong,  sixteen  miles  up  the  track. 
It  was  raining,  of  course,  being  Gippsland  and  Winter  we  could  expect 
nothing  else.  About  three  miles  out  we  came  to  the  Cherry-tree  rises.  Avhere 
a  lot  of  native  cherry  trees  grew — Nyoras — hence  ''Xyora."  Then  a  few  miles 
of  heath  and  sand  hills  and  we  came  to  Tinpot  Hill.  A  few  more  miles  of 
heath,  then  some  open  messmate  country,  and  at  last  the  scrtib.  It  started 
almost  at  once — a  dense  mass  of  hazel  and  tall  thick  swordgrass.  Entering 
this  we  saAv  a  dark  narrow  tunnel  se^en  feet  wide  through  which  ran  n  canal 
of  mud.  Things  did  not  seem  a  bit  cheerful,  for  the  scrub  looked  dark  and 
gloomy  in  that  "Winter's  aftei'uoon.  HoAvever,  Ave  phinged  in — literally  so. 
for  it  Avas  impossible  to  avoid  the  liquid  mud.  the  scrub  and  swordgrass  being 
too  thick  at  the  sides  to  Avalk  through.  A  mile  or  two  of  this  and  we  came 
to  "Scott's."  the  only  house  we  had  seen  since  Ave  left  Baker's.  It  was  the 
home  of  the  late  Mr.  James  Scott,  who  had  been  there  about  three  years,  and 
the  centre  for  years  after  of  all  the  life  and  business  of  the  settlenient.  It 
Avas  hotel,  store,  butcher's  shop  and,  unofficially,  post  office ;  for,  anyone  going 
down  took  letters  left  there,  and  people  coming  tip  brought  any  lying  a. 
Tobinyallock  for  the  settlement.  Here  Ave  saAV  the  first  scrub  ck'ariiig.  It 
looked  strange  to  us,  just  a  green  patch  surrounded  by  walls  of  scrul)  and 
thickly  studded  Avith  dead  trees  and  full  of  little  creeks  running  with  clear 
water,  Avith  any  arnotint  of  l)ig  logs  lying  about.  After  niaking  the  acciiiaint- 
ance  of  Mr.  Scott  and  discussing  the  pvospects  of  the  new  settlement,  he 
showed  us,  on  a  rough  plan  of  his  own.  a  great  deal  of  new  country  still  open 
for  selection  that  he  had  been  through  himself.  Bui  we  were  bound  for  the 
homestead  of  Messrs.  (^ook  Bros,  on  the  Bass,  who  had  been  there  for  about 
eighteen  months. 

The  pack-track,  at  thai  lime  going  sdutb.  lell  .\b'l  )(iiial(r-^  t'.-aek  al  niil  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  east  of  Mr.  Scott's  oi-iginal  homestead,  which  was  on  the 
south-Avest  corner  of  the  property  noA\  called  ""^riie  Prioi'v."  (loing  straight 
doAvn  the  big  hill  to  the  T^ass  it  lan  soiitliAvards  tbroiigb  the  properties  of 
Messi's.  Cook.  Holmes.  Iieland.  Ilosldng  and  Fnller.  and  was  afterwards  con- 
tinued -,ontli  a~  the  country  wjis  Liken  u|).  ft  was  a  rough  ti'aek  in  those 
da\s.  with  steep  -hov)ts  in  it  A\iu're  the  horses  just  uui  tljcii-  feet  together  and 
tobogannecl  to  the  bottom:  ilie  i-est  of  it  was  like  a  llight  of  staii's  with  each 
step  a  puddle  hole.  Ail  pack'-t  raek^  sooi,  wmk  into  a  series  of  holes  and 
transvo'se  I'idge-  nboul  two  feet  apart,  and  the  Intles  a  foot  deep,  caused  by  the 
horses  follow  in<i  in  eaeh  oliiei''s  footsteps.  .Vt  last  we  caught  a  glim|)se  of 
a  house  far  down  below  us.  Previously  we  had  been  walking  entirely  by 
faith  reofarding  the  house,  foi-  a  look  around  would  satisfy  anyone's  unaided 
judgment  that  a  house  was  ;d)out  the  last  e\  idence  of  civilisation  likely  to  l)e 
found  in  such  a  place  as  that.  Ibit  it  was  there,  and  we  were  soon  receiving 
the  Avelcome  of  our  friends  and  exchanging  news  of  the  outside  world  for 
theii"  expei'ieiicc--   in   the  n(!Av.      After  liiuiug    a     look-    round     next     i|;iy.    we- 


118  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

decided  the  impurtniit  question  •'to  peg  or  jiot  to  peg"'  in  the  aiHrmative;  and 
starting  the  followinir  morning  under  the  pilotage  of  Mr.  E.  Cook  to  look  for 
country  soon  left  all  evidence  of  civilisation,  except  what  little  we  usually 
carried  about  Avith  lis.  far  hehinci.  Scrambling  through  the  scrub  for  three  or 
four  hours  southward  and  eastAvard.  we  at  last  came  on  a  patch  of  good  hazel 
country  that  no  one  hitherto  had  seemed  to  have  wanterl  since  the  Crtatiou. 
and  we  tired  the  first  shot  of  a  long  campaign  by  sticking  in  our  pegs.  Getting 
back  in  the  evening  we  came  across  Mr.  Chas.  Cook  splitting  shingles  out  of 
:i  big  blaclvAvood  alongside  the  track  not  far  from  the  camp:  they  were  good 
shingles  too.  I  remember.  Shouldering  his  saw  as  he  prepared  to  accompany 
us  home.  "Well,  boys.''  he  remarked,  ''I've  done  a  good  day's  work  to-day, 
and  I  hope  you  ha^e  too."  In  the  years  that  followed  we  often  wondered  if 
we  had. 

Returning  to  town,  we  lodged  our  application,  and  in  due  course  were 
recommended,  and  soon  afterwards,  when  the  blocks  were  Ijeing  surveyed,  we 
came  U])  with  a  team  and  outfit.  We  had  learned  in  the  meantime  that  we 
could  get  on  to  our  blocks  from  McDonald's  track  by  going  some  distance 
above  Poowong  and  striking  south:  and  also  that  Garrard  and  O'Grady.  who 
were  doing  the  surveys,  had  cut  a  track  soutliAvard  as  far  as  one  of  our  blocks. 
McDonald's  track  was  too  bad  at  the  time  to  take  the  team  much  beyond 
Scott's,  so  we  put  the  packs  on  the  horses  there  and  set  olf  to  find  the  new 
track  where  it.  turned  off  McDonald's  track.  We  came  to  it  eventually, 
after  going  about  four  miles,  and  turned  southward  along  it.  That  was  our 
first  experience  of  pack-tracks  and  packing.  It  was  a  1)adlv  cut  track:  nar- 
roAv.  and  Avith  onlv  the  biggest  logs  cleared,  and  went  in  a  straight  line  OA'er 
gullies  and  hills,  some  of  the  latter  having  a  grade  of  one  in  three.  It  was 
dark  AAlien  Ave  I'eached  the  survey  camp,  two  miles  south  of  McDonald's  track, 
but  Ave  had  to  get  back  that  night,  so  mounting  the  pack-saddles  we  started 
back  in  the  dark.  Saplings  hung  across  the  track  here  and  there,  and  unless 
you  kept  your  hand  out  in  front  of  you  all  the  Avay  they  would  wipe  you  off 
the  saddle  before  you  Avere  aAvare  of  them  in  the  dark.  After  that  even  the 
mud  of  the  main  track  Avas  welcome. 

As  soon  as  the  surveys  Avere  far  enough  advanced  Ave  let  some  scrub  to  be 
cut.  and  I  camped  Avith  the  snr\eyors  to  look  after  the  cutting  of  it  and  to 
explore  generally,  to  find  out  Avhere  the  blocks  lay  relatively  to  the  rest  of  the 
world.  By  the  old  agreement  for  cutting  that  scrub  Avhich  I  discovered  the 
other  day  among  some  old  papers,  and  Avhich  is  dated  Xovember  1st,  1877,  I 
notice  that  one  Con.  SuUiA^an  and  his  mate  J.  Marra  agreed  *'to  cut  the  scrub 
for  the  sum  of  one  pound  per  acre.  All  green  timber  up  to  9  inches  in 
diameter  to  be  cut  not  more  than  12  inches  from  the  ground,  and  all  other 
timber  to  be  bark  ringed."  That  was  the  usual  style  of  agreement,  except 
that  in  heaA'ier  scrub  you  cut  up  to  a  bigger  dimension. 

Our  camp  soon  began  to  groAv.  and  before  long  assumed  considerable 
proportions.  Besides  a  strong  survey  camp  a  number  of  neAv  selectors  had' 
come  in  and  camped  alongside,  making  it  a  centre  from  Avhich  to  explore  for 
outlets  and  make  themseh^es  acquainted  Avith  the  whereabouts  of  their  blocks. 
One  night  we  had  a  terrific  gale:  the  saplings  were  bending  over  some  of  the 
tents  in  a  most  alarming  manner,  for  no  one  had  bothered  to  do  much  clearing, 
and  presently,  in  the  pitchy  darkness,  a  great  tree  crashed  down  close  beside 
the  camp.  It  Avas  no  use  looking  for  safety — in  the  midst  of  miles  of  scrub 
one  place  Avas  as  safe  as  another — so  we  just  sat  up  and  thought  of  our  sins 
till   morning,  and  unanimously  decided  to  cut  down  a  big  tree  at  the  back 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


11!) 


THE    i'U1.\(;e    <»i-   'iiik   scut  r. 


1-20  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

"which  was  on  our  niiiuls  all  the  time — that  i>  if  we  were  not  mider  it  or 
another  one  before  the  night  was  out.  But  when  daylight  came  it  was  calm, 
and  things  looked  safer,  and  the  tree  was  a  Aery  big  one.  so  we  decided  to  let 
it  stand.  Avhich  it  did  for  twenty  years  or  more. 

Onr  next  affliction  Avas  the  illness  of  the  old  cook.  Ehetniiatic  feAer.  he 
said  it  Avas.  and  there  AA'as  no  one  in  camp  able  to  say  that  it  Avas  not:  so.  after 
doctoring  him  for  a  aa  hile.  Ave  decided  he  Avould  haA'e  to  go  out :  but  this  was 
a  big  proposition,  for  aa-c  Avould  have  to  carry  him  out,  and  he  Avas  A^ery 
heaAy,  also  scAcral  of  the  men  had  left  camp.  Avhich  made  it  all  the  Avorse  for 
those  Avho  remained.  The  first  half  mile  Avas  up  a  grade  of  one  in  tliree,  and 
the  rest  of  it  a  succession  of  hills  and  gullies.  The  track  was  narroAv  and 
muddy  and  full  of  little  hazel  stumps:  occasionally.  Avhen  taking  a  spell,  w^e 
would  accidentally  set  the  stretcher  doAvn  on  one  of  these,  but  we  soon  heard 
of  it  through  the  i^atient.  Avhose  language  was  not  impaired  nor  yet  improA^ed 
by  his  affliction.  But  we  striigoled  on  with  him  till  Ave  landed  him  on 
McDonald's  Track  and  forAvarded  liim  thence  to  Melbourne,  which  was  the 
last  AAe  cA'er  heard  of  him. 

By  this  time  Sullivan  and  Co.  Avere  getting  on  AA'ell  Avith  the  scrub-* 
cutting:  they  Avere  expert  hands  and  got  oAer  a  good  deal  in  a  day. 

Scrub-cutting  in  hazel  country  is  i-ather  pleasant  Avork.  and  atfords  scope 
for  a  good  deal  of  ingenuity  and  skill.  But  it.  is  dangerous  Avork  in 
heaA-y  spar  country,  especially  for  ncAv  chums.  A  neighbour  of  mine  was 
caught  in  a  "fall"  on  one  occasion  when  cutting  scrub,  and  was  stunned  and  lay 
for  three  hours  unconscious.  When  he  recovered,  he  found  himself  pinned 
doAvn  by  a  small  sapling  across  his  chest.  His  axe  had  fallen  almost  out  of 
his  reach,  but  after  a  long  Avhile  of  scratching  and  straining  he  managed  to  get 
it  at  last,  and  sloAvly  and  painfully  nicked  the  sapling  in  tAVo  and  freed 
himself.  His  feelings  may  be  imagined  Avhen  he  reA-iAcd  and  realised  his 
position — alone  and  pinned  to  the  ground  Avith  apparently  no  hope  of  release. 

The  scrulj  had  a  Aery  sAveet  scent  Avhen  cut  a  fcAv  hours  in  the  Spring  or 
early  Summer.  The  liJackAvood.  light Avood.  hazel,  musk.  Ijlanketwood,  supple- 
jack and  wattle  all  fioAver  freely  and  haAe  a  Aery  sAveet  perfume. 

Burning-off  time  Avas  always  a  Aer^-  anxious  one  for  the  selector,  but  not 
for  the  same  reason  as  it  is  now.  There  Avas  no  danger  then  of  the  fire 
spreading.  It  neA'er  seemed  to  run  in  the  scrub  Aery  far.  and  there  were  very 
feAv  buildings,  fences  or  grass  to  get  burnt,  so  the  Avindier  and  hotter  tihe 
day  the  better  for  our  purpose.  January  and  February  were  the  faA^ourite 
months  for  burning  off.  and  the  desire  of  cA'ery  man  was  to  get  a  good  '"burn" 
so  that  there  Avould  be  little  left  on  the  ground  to  jiick  up  and  burn  afterwards. 

The  game  was.  in  lighting  scrub,  to  get  it  lit  all  round  as  quickly  as 
possible.  The  more  men  you  haAe  for  this  purpose  the  better.  Some  people 
would  light  on  the  Avindy  side  only:  this  Avas  a  mistake,  for  in  the  first  place 
the  Avind  might  change  ]ust  after  you  lighted  it.  and  in  the  next,  unless  the 
wind  be  Aery  strong,  the  heat  of  the  fire  Avill  still  it.  or.  rather,  cause  an 
inrush  of  air  from  all  sides.  This  draAvs  the  fire  upAvards.  but  prcA'ents  it 
from  travelling,  and  should  there  be  a  ridge  across  the  line  of  march,  the 
fire  will  not  traA^el  Avell  down  the  opposite  side.  But  if  the  scrub  be  lit  all 
round,  each  fire  draws  the  other  to  it  by  reason  of  the  upAvard  rush  of 
rarefied  air  and  the  consequent  inrush  from  all  sides.  I  haA^e  often  heard 
men   Avho  had  been  lighting  on  oppo.site  sides  disputing  as  to  Avhich   way 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  1-21 

the  wind  was  hlowiiig-  when  tliev  were  lighting  and  the  fire  got  going.  One 
woukl  dechire  it  was  blowing  a  gale  from  the  west,  the  other  fiercely  maintain- 
ing that  it  was  blowing  from  the  east  "something  terril  )le."  and,  of  course,  they 
were  both  right.  And  it  does  blow  "something  terrible"  when  there  is  a  good 
burn  on:  I  have  seen  the  tops  wrenched  off  big  saplings,  and  limbs  off  big 
trees  carried  far  on  the  gale. 

Then  the  animals  begin  to  clear  out  from  the  cut  scrub : 
wallabie,'^.  bandicoots,  snakes,  lizards,  bush  rats,  and  occasionally  a 
possum  or  an  old  bear,  with  now  and  then  a  lyre  bird  who  has  Ijeen  caught 
prospecting  for  grubs  under  the  scrub  in  some  damp  gully.  They  all  seem  to 
know  the  danger  long  before  the  fire  comes  near  them — probabh^  they  hear  the 
roar  of  the  fire.  But  how  do  they  know  that  means  danger?  The  old  bears 
always  trust  to  the  trees  for  safety  unless  one  happens  to  be  on  the  ground 
jiear  the  edge  of  the  cut  scrub,  then  he  will  make  for  a  tree  out  on  the 
clearing.  But  in  a  strong  fire,  those  in  trees'  on  the  burn  have  no  chance. 
I  have  often  .seen  big  green  trees  wrapped  for  an  instant  in  a  mantle  of  flame, 
then  a  black  cloud  would  float  away  from  the  top,  and  every  leaf  be  Ijeft 
hanging  stiff  and  brown  and  dead.  A  good  burn  is  a  grand  sight.  The  fire  in 
great  billows  of  flame  rolls  across  the  scrub  or  shoots  upwards  as  the  wind 
catches  it,  black-red  masses  of  smoke  hang  low  on  the  scrub  one  moment,  and 
the  next  are  tossed  high  by  the  volcanoes  of  fire  beneath.  Immense  sheets  of 
flame  reach  out  ahead  and  seize  the  dry  trees  and  stmnps.  then  the  fire  rushes 
on  and  leaves  them  behind — flaming  records  of  its  march — like  burning  homes 
in  the  wake  of  a  ravaging  army.  And  all  the  while  bands  of  skirmishers,  in 
the  .shape  of  iMUMiing  bark  and  sparks,  lead  the  attack  on  the  enemy  in  front; 
hundreds  of  little  spurts  of  flame  and  smoke  showing  where  their  shells  have 
fallen.  A  gale  roars  through  the  timber,  and  soon  you  hear  the  boom  of  the 
big.  dry  trees  as  the  fire  begins  to  bring  them  down.  Then  the  watcher  far 
away  sees  vast.  roinid-top])ed  volumes  of  smoke  rising  slowly,  pile  on  pile,  for 
a  thousand  feet,  there  to  remain  for  a  while  statioiiai'v.  or  "in  sidlen  grandeur 
sail  like  floating  AIds"  across  the  sky. 

After  a  good  biii'ii  in  liazcl  coiiiili-v.  the  ground  is  covered  with  a  white 
ash  and  the  hills  gleam  Avhite  through  the  trees  as  if  covered  Avith  snow,  till 
the  fii-st  rain  falls.  But  in  spar  or  in  musk  country  the  ground  is  black, 
and  in  the  former,  covered  with  great  s|)ai>  and  not  at  all  a  cheerful  land- 
scape. 

Picking-up  and  burning  oH'  the  timbei-  left  after  a  l)urn  is  begun  as  soon 
as  possil)le.  As  in  cutting  scrub  you  begin  on  the  gullies,  and  sending  two  or 
three  men  ahead  with  axes,  cut  all  the  spai-s  into  haudy  k'ugths.  say  10  or  12 
feet  or  more,  according  to  the  size  of  them;  then  have  five  or  six  men  following 
up  stacking.  Keep  at  this  till  a  windy  day  comes,  then  light  one  here  and 
there  among  the  heaps:  let  these  burn  down  a  bit  and  then  Avith  a  shovel  take 
a  feAv  coals  and  put  on  each  of  the  other  heaps.  Before  the  heaps  are  quite 
burnt  out.  go  round  and  throw  lliem  together:  this  saves  a  lot  of  woi-k,  as  it  is 
easier  to  keep  (hem  burniug  than  to  stack  and  starl  them  again.  Pile  against 
big  logs  Avhei'e  there  are  any.  and  so  reduce  them  or  burn  them  right  away. 
Picking  u]>  and  sowing  should  be  finished  bv  the  end  of  .V])ril.  Tf  you  cannot 
do  it  by  then,  stack  the  timber  and  sow  the  seed,  and  burn  oil'  (he  (imber  next 
year.  Some  sow  the  seed  in  Spring,  but  T  do  not  believe  in  it:  there  is  not 
time  for  it  to  get  rooted  before  the  hot  weather,  and  the  rye  grass  will  probably 
die  out. 


\-22  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Kye-grnss.  cocksfoot  and  clover  Avere  the  grasses  usually  sown,  but  many 
other  Idnds  were  also  tried,  ftnd  usually  did  well.  The  rye-grass  did  not  stand 
Avell  at  first,  but  this  was  owing  to  errors  in  stocking  and  the  looseness  of  the 
soil,  also  to  bad  seed  in  some  cases.  The  Spring  grass  was  often  allowed  to  go 
to  seed  before  it  Avas  stocked,  which,  of  course,  weakened  it;  then  the  cater- 
pillars ate  it  out  the  first  two  or  three  years.  Bad  seed  oft'  first  year's  grass 
was  often  sown  with  the  worst  results,  and  rye-gTass  got  the  reputation  of  not 
standing.  But  I  know  paddocks  that  Avere  sown  entirely  with  rye-grass 
which  gave  a  splendid  pasture  for  twent}^  years,  but  the  seed  was  off  a  very 
old  pastui'e.  After  a  while,  the  rye-grass  gradually  worked  in  and  is  to  be 
found  all  over  now,  although  the  cocksfoot  is  the  predominant  grass.  Clover 
always  did  well,  but  some  years  better  than  others. 

After  two  or  three  years,  a  great  deal  of  the  scrub  began  to  come  again, 
especially  on  clearings  that  had  been  lightly  slocked.  The  swordgrass  was  the 
worst  trouble,  and  it  might  cost  anything  from  five  to  thirty  shillings  an  acre 
to  hack  it  out  with  mattocks.  On  well-stocked  clearings  the  second  gi-owth 
did  not  trouble  much  at  first,  but  practically  the  whole  of  the  land  had  to  be 
gone  over  again  sooner  or  later  for  this  purpose.  I  know  there  is  not  an  acre 
of  mine  that  has  not  been  so  treated.  Dead  timber  also  began  to  fall,  very 
soon  necessitating  further  expense  in  clearing  up.  This  will  give  some  idea  of 
what  the  clearing  of  the  country  meant  to  the  pioneers,  independent  altogether 
of  the  original  clearing;  and  will  also  enable  socialists  to  calculate  the  unearned 
increment. 

As  we  have  now  arrived  at  the  stage  when  most  of  the  pioneers  have 
got  small  clearings,  built  temporary  cabins  and  come  up  to  reside,  it  might 
be  interesting  to  note  what  manner  of  men  they  were.  All  the  professions 
were  represented,  and  most  of  the  principal  trades  and  callings,  Avith  quite  a 
number  of  young  men  from  the  Government  offices  and  city  firms.  Many 
ladies,  too,  had  selected,  but  very  fcAv  had,  so  far,  ventured  into  the  Avilderness. 
It  was  largely  a  community  of  bachelors,  and  the  consequence  Avas  that  those 
offices  in  the  domestic  economy  usually  administered  by  the  ladies  were 
often  filled  by  ministers  notoriously  unfit  for  their  positions:  reconstruction 
was  often  resoi-ted  to,  but  it  w^as  more  for  the  sake  of  a  change  than  with 
any  hope  of  improvement.  The  cooking  and  Avashing  departments  Avere 
generally  scandalously  administered:  but  there  Avas  a  lot  of  ingenuity  shown 
in  the  short  cuts  iuA-ented,  and  in  the  substitution  of  neAV  methods  for  the 
old  Avays  of  doing  things.  A  neighbour  of  mine,  a  student  of  Sandhurst,  who 
had  abandoned  the  sabre  for  the  axe  in  search  of  fortune  in  South  Gipps- 
land,  noticed  a  wringing  machine  in  McEAvan's  window  one  day  when  in  toAvn, 
and  immediately  saAV  possibilities  in  it  neA'er  dreamt  of  by  the  iuAentor,  nor 
hinted  at  by  the  most  mendacious  advertiser.  Making  it  his  oAvn,  he  took  it 
home  and  screwed  it  on  top  of  an  old  blackAVood  stump.  Going  over  one 
Sunday  morning  to  exchange  ideas,  I  heard  a  voice  just  before  I  got  out  of 
the  pack-track: — ''Johnnie,  Avhat  the  devil  are  you  feeding  it  so  hard  for;  I 
can  hardly  turn  the  damn  thing."  When  I  got  up  to  them,  my  friend,  clad 
in  a  smoking  cap  and  a  big  pipe  and  little  else,  Avas  sloAvly  turning  the  handle 
of  the  machine  while  "Johnnie,"  standing  betAveen  a  bucket  of  water  and  a 
pile  of  soiled  shirts,  Avas  carefully  ^«tting  the  latter — "sousing  them,"  he 
called  it — in  the  bucket  and  feeding  them  to  the  machine.  This  was  repeated 
till  they  looked  all  over  alike,  then  they  were  "done."  I  suggested  they  were 
only  spreading  the  "soil"  oxev  them,  and  there  should  be  some  preliminary 
ceremony.  Others,  again,  had  a  simple  method,  Avhich  Avas  merely  to  anchor 
vour  linen  in  the  middle  of  a  running  stream  and  let  nature  do  the    rest. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  123 

Baking  \va<  another  prolileiii  with  wliich  we  wiv.-tled  with  ever-varying 
results.  AVe  had  begun  Avith  damper  and  advanced  through  Johnnie  cakes 
and  fritters  to  "PoAvder"  bread.  But  one  progressive — Jones  was  his  name — 
the  son  of  a  Manchester  cotton  spinner — dechired  that  the  yeast  age  had 
arrived,  and  proceeded  ro  demonstrate  the  fact.  Getting  a  pound  of  hops 
from  the  store,  he  jammed  about  half  of  it  into  a  billy  of  water  with  some 
susar,  and  boiling  the  lot  for  a  while,  he  let  it  cool :  then  mixed  the  brcAV  with 
some  flour,  and  getting  as  much  of  it  as  he  could  into  the  camp-oven,  put  it  on 
the  fire,  lit  his  pipe  and  awaited  results;  we  all  did.  After  about  an  hour  vce 
began  to  get  im,patient:  Jones  said  it  would  "rise.-'  we  said  it  woiddn't. 
One  man  with  sporting  proclivities  wanted  to  make  a  "book"'  on  the  event, 
while  another  was  whistling  "Avhat  will  the  harvest  be."  A  third  thought 
Jones  should  have  either  left  a  few  hop  leaves  in  it,  or  put  in  a  bit  of  powder 
to  help  it  rise.  Jones  smoked  on  in  contemptuous  silence.  At  last,  when 
the  strain  was  beginning  to  tell,  he  consented  to  remove  the  lid.  But,  alas! 
instead  of  being  "anv  bigger,  the  thing  was  smaller  than  Avhen  it  went  in. 

"Well,  I'm  d d!"  said  Jones,  -'must  have  been  bad  hops.''     Afterwards, 

iie  said  he  might  have  been  a  bit  too  premature  in  the  use  of  the  "yeast."  It 
was  as  tough  as  leather  and  l)itter  as  gall:  even  the  satin  birds  would  not  eat  it 
— one  peck  was  enough — and  they  "passed." 

As  it  was  in  the  garden  of  Eden,  so  it  was  here:  man  came  first  a.nd 
Avoman  later.  Very  few  of  her  for  a  while,  but  as  many  ladies  had  taken  up 
selections  in  the  district  alongside  those  of  her  brothers  or  fathers,^  it  Avas 
necessary  for  them  to  fulfil  the  residence  clause,  Avhich  some  of  them  did,  Avith 
considerable  misgivings  on  account  of  the  Avildness  of  the  country.  Two  there 
were  Avho  so  little  trusted  the  look  of  things  as  to  go  armed.  It  was  bad  enough 
to  come  amongst  a  lot  of  unprotected  bachelors  armed  Avith  the  ordinary- 
weapons  of  the  sex,  l)ut  to  add  lethal  aa capons  to  their  armoiu-y  Avas  hardly 
fair — or  so  one  man  thought  Avhen  giving  one  of  them  a  ride  doAvn  to  Scott's 
to  catch  the  coach.  The  lady  Avas  accommodated  Avith  a  seat  on  some  bags  in 
the  bottom  of  the  dray,  the  driver  sitting  on  an  upturned  bucket  in  front. 
The  road  was  a  sea  of  mud.  Avith  stumps  and  roots  underneath,  and  there  Avas 
much  jolting.  But  nothing  haijpened  for  a  mile  or  tAvo,  then  there  Avas  an 
extra  violent  jolt.  folloAved  by  a  pistol  shot,  and  a  btdlet  i^assed  through  the 
bucket  on  which  the  driver  Avas  sitting.  Being  a  rather  nervous  man,  he  im- 
mediately jum]ied  overboard  into  the  mud,  j)referring  tlie  ills  he  saw  in  front 
to  those  he  kncAV  not  of  behind.  Looking  round,  he  i-egarded  the  lady  Avith 
the  graA-est  suspicion,  to  say  the  least  of  it.  Avhich  Avas  not  much  allayed  on 
seeing  her  laughinir  heartily  behind  a  smoking  pistol.  "What  did  you  do 
that  "for?"  he  askecl.  "Oh.''  she  said.  "T  took  this  thing  out  to  see  if  it  was 
all  right,  and  when  the  n\rt  gave  a  jolt  that  time.  I  put  out  my  hand  to  saA^e 
myself,  and  must  have  knocked  it  on  the  bottom  of  the  di'iiy.  and  it  Avent  off; 
but  you  need  not  have  jumped  so:  I  did  not  mean  anything."  "TTow  Avas  I  to 
know  Avhat  vou  meant?  If  vou  don't  mind.  T  Avill  take  that  thing  noAV." 
"Oh.  it's  all' right."  she  said."  "Yes,  I  am  afraid  it  is,"  he  replied,  "that's 
Avhy  T  want  it."  And  he  firmly  declined  to  come  aboard  again  till  she  had 
liniided  over  her  gun:  securing  that,  be  kicked  the  mud  off  liis  boots  and 
climbed  on  board.  For  the  rest  of  the  journey.  Avhether  from  a  l)elated  feeling 
of  L'allantrv  or  the  instinct  of  self-preservation  (lest  she  might  have  "another" 
about  hei)  he  accommodated  the  lady  Avith  a  seat  alongside  him. 

Event uallv  the  households  settled  doAvn  to  the  ordinary  i-outine  of  a 
civilised  cornmunitv  so  far  as  the  conditions  of  the  country^  alloAved.  But, 
a1tlioii<:li    there   avms   a    certain    amount    of  social   life   after  a    time   on   "The 


124  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Track,""  as  we  used  to  term  McDonald's  Track,  the  women  out  back  had  a 
monotonous  time.  Those  who  could  not  ride  had  either  to  stay  at  home  per- 
petually or  be  taken  out  on  a  sledge.  Walking  was  out  of  the  question,  and 
of  \ehicular  traffic  there  was  none.  And  the  highest  admiration  is  due  to 
those  Avomen  who  through  all  the  long  years  of  struggle  and  waiting  re- 
mained at  then-  posts  in  the  lonely  scrub  till  brighter  days  came  for  thei 
settlement,  and  their  families  reaped  the  reward  of  their  sacrifices  and  self- 
denial. 

Let  us  take  a  glance  now  at  the  prospects  of  the  settlers  in,  say,  1878,  or 
tliree  jears  after  the  first  settlers  came  in.  I  fancy  if  some  clairvoyant  could 
have  raised  the  veil  of  the  future  and  shown  them  the  next  ten  or  twelve  years, 
most  of  them  would  have  thrown  down  their  cards  and  declined  to  play  the 
game.  The  district  was  almost  entirely  without  roads,  except  for  McDonald's 
Track,  which  was  only  seven  feet  Avide  and  a  mere  pack-track  in  the  Winter 
time.  In  addition  to  the  enormous  initial  cost  of  clearing  and  sowing  the 
land,  which  at  that  time  Avas  anything  from  Iavo  to  six  pounds  an  acre,  they 
had  to  set  to  work  and  find  roads  for  themselves  and  clear  them.  Had 
practical  road  lines  been  surveyed  for  them  at  first,  they  could  have  made 
shift  to  clear  a  rough  road  or  a  pack-track  along  them.  But  they  had  to  spend 
months  with  compass  and  axe.  exploring  ridges  and  gullies  for  miles  through 
the  dense  scrub,  for  loads  or  even  pack-tracks  into  their  holdings.  Almost 
all  the  main  roads  were  discoA^ered  and  blazed  by  the  settlers  themsehes  before 
the  scrub  was  cleared,  and  all  the  Government  did  Avas  to  send  up  a  camp 
of  stirvevors  to  stirA^ey  these  roads,  plot  them  on  paper  and  give  them  official 
existence.  These  Avere  only  the  main  roads:  many  of  the  back  blocks  Avere 
without  outlets  for  twenty  yeai^  longer. 

In  addition  to  all  this  work  and  Avorry.  there  Avas  a  vast,. 
amount  of  other  public  work  to  be  attended  to  in  the  provision 
of  post  offices,  schools,  churches,  halls,  and  in  connection  Avith  mtmi- 
cipal  matter?  and  the  agitation  for  raihvay  comniunication.  Then  if  he 
had  any  time  afterAvards,  the  selector  might  devote  it  to  making  a  living.  But 
how  was  he  to  do  it?  As  I  liaAe  said  before,  the  settlers  Avere  A'ery  mixed  as 
to  the  callings,  professions,  and  trades :  f cav  had  ever  been  on  the  land  before, 
and,  of  course,  the  majority  Avere  entirely  inexperienced.  Good  men  though, 
.shrcAvd  and  up  to  date  as  a  rule,  progressiAc  and  willing  to  giA^e  their  time  to 
public  matters.  But  it  Avas  not  easy,  even  for  experienced,  practical  men  to 
make  a  living  under  the  conditions.  The  nearest  station  they  could  reach — 
Dandenong — was  nearly  fifty  miles  aAvay.  Roads  there  were  none;  and 
prices  for  cattle,  sheep,  butter  and  such  things  Avere  low.  At  first,  many  Avent 
in  for  fattening  cattle,  and  some  Avith  large  clearings  did  fairly  Avell :  but  most 
of  the  clearings  Avere  too  small,  and  the  men  too  inexperienced  to  buy  their 
store  cattle  to  advantage,  and  often  lost  money.  Sheep  were  also  tried,  but  the 
dingoes  were  very  bad  and  used  to  take  heavy  toll  if  the  sheep  were  not  yarded 
eAery  night.  This  brought  on  foot-rot  and  played  liaA'Oc  with  the  sheep 
unless  they  Avere  constantly  attended  to  and  the  hurdles  shifted  every  few 
nights. 

Other.~.  again.  AA'ent  in  for  dairying,  packing  out  their  stuff  for  miles 
to  places  Avhence  the  coach  or  carrier  could  take  it.  In  the  early  days,  of 
ce>urse,  there  Avas  no  coach  even.  AVith  the  price  for  butter  at  Id.  per  ]3ound, 
at  times  there  Avas  often  less  than  nothing  in  it:  still,  those  Avho  .stuck  to  it  all 
through,  taking  the  good  Avith  the  bad,  came  out  best,  for  they  had  the  young 
stock.     Dairying  is  noAv  a  parlour  game  compared  with  AA'hat  it  Avas  then. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  125 

With  no  separators,  no  butter  factories,  no  cream  waggons,  and  often  tlie 
most  temporary  sheds  and  yards — sometimes  none  at  all — and  produce  to  be 
carried  on  pack  saddles  for  miles  through  the  scrub,  one  cannot  help  admiring 
the  extraordinary  pluck  of  those  who  carried  it  on  then.  But  amidst  all  our 
afflictions,  we  always  had  the  consolation  that  the  country  was  all  right.  Every 
kind  of  stock  did  remarkabW  well,  there  was  always  plenty  of  rain  and  plenty 
of  grass.  But  small  clearings,  bad  roads  (or.  rather,  none  at  all),  dingoe>  and 
complete  inexperience  on  the  part  of  many  of  the  settlers  were  enough  to  l)ring 
disaster  even  on  the  land  of  Canaan  in  its  prime.  The  country  languished  for 
years  and  many  passed  out,  selling  at  very  Ioav  prices.  One  block  near  me  and 
noAv  within  a  mile  of  a  railway  station,  sold  for  25/-  per  acre.  Another  a  little 
more  than  two  miles  above  Poowong  was  offered  to  me  in  1881  at  £2  10  '-  an 
acre  with  1.50  acres  cleared  and  a  house  on  it.  It  is  now^ — 1914 — worth  £20 
an  acre. 

About  that  time  the  scourge  of  caterpillars  Avas  very  bad.  recurring  for 
several  years,  just  at  the  season  when  the  cattle  should  be  topped  off.  I  have 
seen  a  l^eautifully  green  paddock  eaten  out  and  left  bare  and  brown  in  48 
hours.  And  I  have  seen  the  cateri:)illars  so  thick  against  a  big  log  that  had 
stopped  their  march,  that  you  could  easily  have  taken  a  shovel  and  filled  a 
barrow  in  a  short  time.  After  these  came  the  winter  grubs  that  ate  r)ff  the 
grass  below  the  ground,  necessitating  sowing  most  of  the  land  again. 

In  1878  the  first  concerted  effort  was  made  by  the  settlers  to  get  assistance 
from  the  Government  in  making  the  roads,  and  a  big  meeting  was  held  in 
Tomlinson's  Ijarn.  which  stood  then  just  about  where  Mr.  Mair's  residence  now 
stands  on  McDonald's  Track,  two  miles  east  of  Poowong.  We  had  made 
attempt  to  clear  the  track  ourselves,  but  it  was  too  much  for  us,  as  tho->e  out 
back  had  their  own  outlets  to  find  and  clear  as  well.  The  meeting  appoiuted 
Mr.  Murdoch,  sen.,  and  Mr.  Litiledike  to  go  down  and  ask  for  a  (Tovernnient 
gi-ant  to  clear  a  portion  of  McDonald's  Track.  They  were  successful,  and 
tenders  were  called  for  clearing  two  miles  of  it  one  chain  wide.  All  timber  to 
be  cleared  up  to  two  feet  in  diameter.  The  part  cleared  was  from  the  west 
side  of  Mr.  Burchett's  frontage  to  the  east  side  of  iVIr.  Mair's,  or  two  miles 
eastward  from  Poowong.  Tomlinson  did  the  woik  for  £240.  This  was  a  great 
boon  for  a  whil(\  but  the  road  soon  cut  up  and  was  as  1)ad  as  ever. 

At  this  time.  ])eo])le  got  all  their  goods  and  things  by  water  from  Mel- 
boinne  via  the  Bluff',  on  AVesternport.  Captain  Lock,  of  the  "Swan."  doing 
most  of  the  trade.  But  sometimes  there  would  be  a  head  wind  and  he  could 
not  get  in  (she  was  a  sailing  craft,  about  30  tons)  for  perhaps  a  week  or  a 
fortnight,  and  as  there  was  no  mail  to  let  you  know  when  she  arrived,  you 
might  have  to  go  several  times  before  you  got  your  load.  A  man  named 
Xelscm  used  to  cart  the  goods  from  the  jetty  and  store  them  till  the  jjeople 
from  the  hills  came  down  foi-  them.  But  it  was  a  very  uni-eliable  service.  I 
had  a  cargo  on  one  occasion  that  Avent  to  ''The  Bluff.''  New  Zealand.  It  took 
about  six  Aveeks  to  discover  the  fact,  and  oi-dering  another  lot:  the  weather 
bi'oke  in  the  meantime  and  the  roads  were  atrocious.  I  went  doAvn  for  a  load 
by  Avay  of  the  Bluff  road  and  found  Mr.  Bobert  Murdoch  there  at  Xelson's 
after  a  load  also.  Someone  had  told  us  that  the  road  by  Lang  Lang  Avas  better 
than  the  Bluff  'road,  so  Ave  decided  to  go  back  that  Avay.  It  was  Avorse  if 
possible,  and  Ave  Avere  in  trouble  before  we  got  to  Tobinyallock  cornei-.  The 
sand  hills  Avere  not  so  bad.  as  there  had  been  a  lot  of  rain,  but  the  l)lack  fiats  at 
the  SaAv-pit  Hill  track  pulled  us  up  again,  and  Ave  had  to  doul»le-bank  and 
unload  and  do  all  sorts  of  things  before  we  got  to  Tinpot  TTill.     Bob  liad  too 


1-2H  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

much  on  for  his  horses,  but  I  had  a  fair  load  and  could  get  through 
fairly  Avell.  There  was  a  big  hole  at  the  end  of  a  piece  of  corduroy 
someone  had  put  down  at  a  creek  on  the  Poowong  side  of  Tinpotl 
Hill.  I  had  had  a  horse  down  in  it  and  nearly  smothered  twelve 
nio]iths  before,  and  it  was  no  better  still,  but  I  managed  to  dodge  it 
thi>  time.  Bob  thought  to  improve  on  my  track,  and  drove  straight 
througli  it.  but  he  got  to  the  middle  and  stopped  there.  We  got  him  out.  but 
by  that  time  it  was  nearly  dark,  and  going  a  little  fttrther  we  camped  for 
the  riight.  It  came  on  to  rain  hard  and  it  was  too  mtich  trouble  to  light  a  fire. 
Bob  broached  his  cargo  for  a  bottle  of  whisky,  and  having  a  bit  of  tucker 
left,  we  made  a  night  of  it  under  the  tar|janliu>. 

AVe  were  out  before  daylight  next  morning  and  fed  the  horses; 
they  were  shivering  with  cold,  for  we  had  no  rugs  for  them. 
VCe  put  the  collars  on  to  warm  their  shotilders  a  bit  before  start- 
ing, but  they  were  not  too  keen  on  it  then.  However,  after  a  little 
htimoring.  we  got  them  away,  and  by  the  time  we  got  to  the  hills  they  were 
in  good  going  order.  We  had  more  scratching  coming  round  Dunlop's  cut- 
tings, but  we  did  not  get  anchored  again  anywhere,  and  we  parted  company 
opposite  the  place  where  Mrs.  Beck's  house  stands  now.  two  miles  east  of 
PooAYong.  Bob  had  only  another  mile  to  go  to  reach  home,  but  I  had  to 
unyoke,  and.  ptitting  the  pack  saddles  on  the  horses,  load  them  up  and  go  two 
miles  further  southward  bv  a  verv  roujzh  pack-track  over  hills  and  gttllies. 
Our  old  track  then  left  McDonald's  Track  at  Mrs.  lieek's  (then  Mi>s  McLean's) 
and  went  straight  down  the  l»ig  hill  at  the  back.  It  was  the  otitlet  also  for 
Messrs.  Jones.  Matthews.  Plummers.  Johnstone,  and  several  others.  I  gi^'e  this 
experience  as  a  fair  samjDle  of  many  of  the  kind  that  both  myself  and  other 
settlers  had  in  the  early  clays.  Later,  we  got  the  road  opened  across  to  Drouin, 
which  Avas  rather  Avorse  if  anything. 

The  ])ad  roads  and  pack  tracks  made  it  A'ery  difficult  to  handle  stock 
also.  Imagine  driving  500  sheep  through  a  muddy  pack  track  six  or  seven  feet 
wide,  AA'ith  the  scrtib  too  thick  and  rough  for  them  to  leave  the  track.  Soon 
after  we  had  been  settled  in  the  cotmtry.  Mr.  Langham.  sen.,  and  I  brought 
up  a  flock  of  eAA'es  and  lambs  from  Cranbourne:  l)efore  AAe  took  delivery  the 
roads  got  bad,  and  McDonald's  Track  Avas  mud  from  side  to  side,  witH 
islands  of  comparatively  firm  ground  rotmd  the  butts  of  th?  trees.  The  sheep 
got  sick  of  the  game,  and  making  for  the  dry  ground  roiuid  the  trees  ju?ft 
stood  there — "passiA-e  resisters" — till  we  chucked  them  off  into  the  mud,  when 
they  AAould  strike  out  for  another  island  and  AAait  to  be  dislodged  again; 
some  Avould  get  on  the  logs  and  ti-ees  rolled  to  the  side  and  Nvalk  along  a  log  or 
sapling  till  it  became  necessary  to  take  to  the  mud  again.  AAhen  the  leader, 
with  ten  or  fifteen  behind  him,  Avould  stand  still  and  Avait  for  something  to 
haj^pen  till  we  Avent  along  and  launched  them  also.  A  man  Avho  could  stand 
this  sort  of  thing  long  and  keep  calm  Avould  be  fit  for  the  company  of 
angels  any  mintite.  By  the  time  Ave  got  them  into  the  pack  track  they  seemed 
to  have  dcA'eloped  the  Avading  habit  and  strung  along  fairly  well. 

In  taking  out  cattle  to  the  market.  Ave  usually  started  Avith  a  fcAv  more 
than  we  A\  anted,  to  allow  for  desertions  en  route  through  the  pack  track.  We 
sold  a  lot  of  cattle  once  to  Mr.  Alec.  Seolt.  wlio  was  hard  to  l)eat  in  those 
days  when  it  came  to  a  bit  of  stock-riding.  Among  them  AA-as  one  very  wild 
bullock  that  had  been  bred  on  the  place:  he  had  ahvaj^s  been  a  bother  AAhen 
handling  cattle,  so  Ave  determined  to  run  him  out.  We  had  the  best  of  him  on 
the  clearing,  but  as  soon  as  Ave  got  into  the  pack  track  he  made  otf  to  explore 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  1-27 

a  ruLigh  gully  in  the  r^crab  with  Alec,  and  Iwu  or  three  more  of  u.-^  in 
pursuit.  We  soon  got  into  scrub  where  it  was  impossible  to  follow  him  trti 
horseback,  and  took  after  him  on  foot.  Tearing  through  the  scrub  for  an  hour, 
led  by  the  soiuid  of  the  dogs,  we  finally  lost  him  altogether.  But  Alec,  was 
not  satisfied,  and  had  another  shot  at  him — this  time  wuth  some  quiet  cattle — 
about  a  w^eek  later,  and  precisely  the  same  thing  happened  again.  As  a  rule, 
the  dogs  would  stick  them  up  in  rough  scrub  till  you  could  get  round  them; 
but  if  they  were  very  determined,  nothing  but  a  bullet  or  a  bulldog  would 
stop  them.  Alec,  was  not  to  be  beaten,  however;  he  came  again,  but  this  time 
with  a  rifle  and  a  pack  horse,  and  "Wild  Billy'-  Avent  out  very  quietlj^. 

Such  was  cattle-droving  m  the  earl}-  days.  Although  there  were  no 
boundary  fences  lor  many  years,  the  cattle  seldom  strayed  away.  They  did  not 
care  about  going  far  into  the  scrub;  in  fact,  during  most  of  the  year  never 
went  into  it  at  all :  but  in  the  Winter  time  they  Avould  go  into  it  a  good 
deal,  eating  sAvordgras.-.  wire  grass,  and  occasionally  the  cathead  ferns.  There 
was  very  little  edible  r^tnft'  in  the  scrub  they  could  reach,  but  they  were  very 
fond  of  the  blanketwood  and  hazel  when  felled  for  them ;  also  of  the  young 
hazel  coming  up  on  the  clearings  which  often  formed  a  good  standhy  in  al 
hard  Winter. 

In  1878,  after  a  petition  and  the  use  of  much  red  tape  by  the  Postal 
Department,  oar  first  official  Post  Office  was  established  at  Mrs.  Horsley's 
residence,  and  for  many  years  Mrs.  Horsley  was  Postmistress.  There  was  no 
township  at  Poowong  then,  but,  in  18S5.  after  that  township  was  formed,  the 
Post  Office  Avas  removed  there.  At  first  the  mails  were  caried  on  horseback 
from  Tobinyallock.  ariving  on  Sunday.  Later,  they  arrived  on  Saturday 
night,  and  as  the  Post  Office  served  a  district  as  large  as  an  English  County  or 
a  German  principality,  people  used  to  come  for  miles  for  their  letters;  the 
fences  in  the  vicinity  of  the  office  being  festooned  with  saddle-horses  on 
Saturday  nights. 

About  this  time  also — 1878 — the  school  was  established  at  Poowong,  Mr. 
Chas.  Cook  being  the  fir.st  teacher;  also  the  Methodist  Church,  the  services 
w^hich  had  been  previously  held  at  Mr.  Bin-chett's  residence. 

In  1878  the  first  cattle  sale  was  held  at  Dunlop's  yards,  Mt.  Lyell,  by 
Stratford  Strettle.  Later,  they  were  held  at  Scott's,  and  eventually  established 
on  their  present  site  l>y  Leach,  wh(»  first  opened  the  I*oowong  hotel  where  it 
is  now:  having  pinrlia.--ed  the  license  and  hotel  from  Mr.  James  Scott,  he 
removed  the  old  Ixiilding  \\\)  to  its  present  position. 

In  1878.  al'-o.  there  was  a  talk  of  foi-ming  the  new  province  into  a  shire, 
but  we  had  not  sufficient  revenue,  and  it  was  felt  to  be  prcmatine.  so  nothing 
came  of  it.  In  November  of  the  same  year  the  Biiln  Buln  Shire  was  con- 
stituted, and  a  considernble  portion  of  our  country  was  included  in  it;  (he 
boundary  line  betv.een  it  and  the  Shire  of  Philip  Island  and  Woolamai 
running  east  and  west,  about  three  or  four  miles  south  of  McDonald's  Track. 
Althruigh  fixed  on  paper,  it  was  not  easy  to  define  this  line  on  the  ground, 
and  I  received  rate  demands  from  l)oth  (>>uncils,  being  valued  at  £1S  annual 
value  by  Philif)  Ishnid.  and  £15/10/-  by  the  Unln  P>nln  Shire  for  the  same 
block.  Considering  that  neither  of  the  valuers  had  (  ver  been  within  twenty 
miles  of  the  land,  the  difference  in  the  valuations  was  very  excusable.  Wo 
were  entirely  uni('i)re.seut(!d  in  either  shire,  and,  of  cour.se,  not  a  shilling  of 
rates  came  our  way.  In  the  eni-ly  ]^ai-t  of  1879  Ave  sent  Mr.  Gardnei-  and  Mr. 
Murdoch,  sen..  U)  ask  that  portion  of  a  Gf)vernment  gi-ant  be  ex])ended  on  a 


12S  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

new  road  just  discovered  to  Drouin.  and  also  to  ask  that  our  district  bei 
formed  into  a  separate  riding,  Bvdn  Buln  not  then  being'  divided  into  ridings. 
We  got  the  gi'ant,  but  did  no  good  about  the  riding.  But  in  the  same  year  we 
sent  ni  Mr.  P.  F.  Murphy  to  represent  lis  at  the  Council  table.  We  were  no 
better  off.  for,  of  course,  he  was  outvoted.  In  1880  Buln  Buln  was  divided 
into  four  ridings,  and  we  formed  part  of  the  south-Avest  riding,  represented  by 
Gardner.  Ould,  and  McHugh.  Gardner  lost  his  seat  through  absence  the 
following  year,  and  Wilson  was  elected. 

In  1882  the  Warragul  severance  took  place,  and  the  remaining  portion 
of  Bnln  Buln  was  divided  into  two  ridings,  the  north  and  the  south:  we  being 
part  of  the  south,  which  wa.-^  represented  by  ]\lessrs.  Connor.  Grant.  Burchetl, 
Barr,  Sutcliffe  and  Gannon.  In  1883  Burchett  resigned  and  Matthews  was 
elected  in  his  place.  Still  we  were  very  little  better  oil.  and.  having  had  a 
large  slice  of  the  Philip  Island  portion  of  us  added  to  the  South  Riding  of  the 
Buln  Buln  Shire  in  1882,  we  put  up  a  fight  to  get  a  separate  riding,  con- 
sisting of  all  territories  south  of  a  line  running,  roughly,  east  and  west  a  few 
miles  north  of  Poowong.  We  succeeded,  and  Buln  Buln  Avas  re-subdivided, 
and  we  formed  the  South  Riding,  represented  by  Crs.  Fuller.  Glew  and 
Littledike  as  first  councillors  in  1884.  This  arrangement  existed  with,  of 
course,  the  ordinary  changes  in  the  representation,  until  we  were  formed 
into  the  Shire  of  Poowong  and  Jeetho  in  1891. 

To  return  to  1879;  after  the  mail  had  been  carried  for  some  time  on 
horseback  from  Tobinyallock,  Mr.  G.  HoAvard  started  a  coach  between  Tobin- 
yallock  and  Poowong,  running  at  first  three  times  a  Aveek.  by  Avhich  we  got 
the  mail  more  frequently;  but  the  Sale  line  Avas  now  opened,  and  we  began  to 
speculate  on  the  advantages  of  being  able  to  tap  it  someAvhere  Avith  a  road. 
Drouin  was  the  nearest  point,  and  Avith  their  usual  enterprise  and  self-reliance, 
the  settlers  set  about  finding  a  road  for  themselves:  there  Avas  no  hope  of 
either  the  Council  or  the  Goa eminent  doing  it  for  them.  This  they  eAentually 
succeeded  in  doing,  and  after  partially  clearing  it  themselves,  it  was  sur- 
veyed and  some  Government  grant  money  spent  on  it  by  the  Buln  (Bu'Ln 
Council.  A  coach  very  soon  started  to  run  on  it.  leaA-ing  the  Post  Office  at 
11  a.m.  and  arriving  at  Drouin  at  5  p.m..  returning  next  day:  and  later  a 
daily  mail.  But  the  roao  soon  got  into  a  frightful  state,  and  in  the  Winter  of 
1881  the  coach  had  to  ^top  ruiuiiiig.  and  the  mails  Avere  carried  on  horseback. 

I  remember  on  one  occasion  going  up  to  the  track  aa  ith  a  friend  to  take 
the  coach  to  Drouin.  AVe  Avalked  on  a  bit.  as  the  coach  \\  as  not  quite  ready  to 
start,  expecting  it  to  overtake  us.  Avhich  it  never  did:  and  we  tramped  all  the 
way  to  Drouin.  And  that  was  a  very  common  occurrence:  the  coach  was 
constantly  breaking  doAvn,  and  we  would  haAc  to  do  the  rest  of  the  journey  on 
foot — five,  ten  or  twenty  miles  through  the  mud.  and  often  in  the  dark.  too. 
A  man  named  Cahill  Avas,  I  think,  the  first  to  run  the  coach  through  to  the 
Track,  and  afterAvards  Mr.  Sid.  Watts  ran  it  for  some  years. 

Shortly  after  the  road  Avas  opeped  to  Drouin,  Mr.  .J.  Salmon  opened  the 
first  store  in  Poowong  toAvnship — the  one  owned  by  Mr.  Gregg — and  OAvned 
for  many  years  previously  by  Mr.  B.  Chaffey.  OAving  to  the  Drouin  road 
coming  on  to  "The  Track"  at  PooAvong.  the  centre  of  business  shifted  from 
Scott's  to  the  town.-,hi]i.  Avhich  Avas  a  Government  reserve.  The  hotel  and 
license  Avere  purchased  from  Mr.  Scott  bv  Leach  and  removed  to  the  present 
site  at  the  corner  of  the  Drouin  road,  and  the  tOAvnship  began  to  deA'elop 
the  usual  features  of  such  i)laces.  even  to  an  "AthenaMim"  Hall  a  little  later. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  129 

There  had  been  a  .store  and  Post  Office  at  Cruick.ston  from  1877.  bnt  no 
township  ever  developed.  Mr.  Chatfey  also  opened  a  store  at  what  is  now 
Abshot  in  1883.  later  kept  by  Mr.  A.  M.  Salmon,  where  the  first  Koriimburra 
Post  Office  was  opened.  The  office  took  its  name  from  the  parish,  the  town 
of  Korumburra,  six  miles'  to  the  sonth.  not  then  existing. 

In  1880  Mr.  Snrveyor  Tardner  arrived  to  survey  a  nunitjr  of  roads 
previously  di.scovered  and  blazed  by  the  settlers.  This  Avas  an  epoch-making 
event,  as  the  survey  of  roads  gave  the  place  a  topography  it  had  previousl}^ 
lacked.  It  was  one  immen.se  district  to  the  south  of  McDonald's'  Track, 
vagueh'  known  as  "'Down  South.""  And  the  nearest  we  could  get  to  locating 
a  man  anywhere  from  Korumburra  to  Kongwak  was  to  say  he  was  •'somewhere 
doAvn  south,"  PooAvong  being  at  that  time  the  hub  of  the  settlement.  After  the 
roads  were  surveyed  we  Avere  able  to  locate  each  other  more  definitely  and  had 
a  l)etter  idea  of  distances,  also  places  began  to  be  named  and  locate  themselves 
in  men's  minds.  Interests  also  began  to  localise  more,  and  occasionally  a  road 
proved  an  apple  of  discord  in  some  district  Avhere  hitherto  all  had  been 
lirotlieily   love   and   kindness. 

Mr.  Larchier  camped  first  on  ^Slr.  E.  C.  Holmes*  selection.  •AVombalano," 
and  surveyed  the  main  soutli  road  from  PooAvong  and  along  Avhere  Bena  noAV 
stands,  and  on  to  the  east  boundary  of  HeAvitt's  block,  junctioning  there 
Avith  AVhitelaAv's  track.  In  the  same  year  he  surveyed  Whitelaw's  road  from 
McDonald's  Track  soutlnvard  to  the  Avest  l)Oundarv  of  Eccles"  block  ( White- 
laAv's  survey  Avas  only  for  a  pack  track),  and  from  that  point  nothing  Avas 
done  for  some  years.  He  also  surAeyed  part  of  the  Jeetho  West  road  in  the 
direction  of  Grantville.  Hargrenves  having  surveyed  part  of  that  road  in 
1878.  Later,  Mr.  Lardner  surveyed  other  roads'  in  the  district,  and  in  1883 
.sstirveyed  the  road  to  Ander-MnTs  Inlet  from  the  main  south  road  at  Whitelaw, 
via  Jumbiinna  and  Outtriiii.  In  the  same  year  he  also  surveyed  the  Tavo- 
chain  and  One-chain  roads  at  AraAvatta.  In  1880  he  surveyed  the  Danish 
settlement  road,  East  PooAvong.  During  the  next  fcAv  years  these  roads  were 
cleared  in  a  sort  of  Avay  by  the  Buln  Buln  Shire  Council,  but  for  most  o(r 
tlie  year  they  Avere  only  fit  for  the  ]iack-horse  or  the  sledge. 

In  1879  j^eople  began  to  talk  of  railway  communication,  and  a  meeting 
Avas  called  by  Mr.  Walter  Foreman  and  Mr.  Chas.  Cook  at  Scott's  hotel.  The 
latter  had  already  done  a  good  deal  of  Avork  in  conneclion  with  the  matter, 
and  although  iiothinir  c.une  (d'  the  lueeting  at  the  lime,  he  and  a  fi-w  others 
still  kept  the  agitation  going.  lint  it  was  not  until  issl  ;hat  concerted  action 
Avas  takeii  by  the  AvhoJe  settleni'Mit. 

In  August  of  that  year  we  held  a  lucetiuir  in  our  local  '•Forum.""  Tondin- 
son's  barn,  which  was  largely  attended.  As  it  was  i-ather  a  historical  event, 
it  might  be  interesting  to  fjuote  a  few  extracts  from  that  old  meeting;  for, 
although  the  Drouin  to  Poowong  T^eague  failed  in  its  specific  object,  it  did 
splendid  Avoi-k  i)i  showing  the  necessity  ol'  a  railway  through  the  new  pro\  ince, 
and  thus  materialh-  helped  the  much  latei-  ])roject  of  the  (Ireat  Southei-n 
line.     I  (|nf)te  from  the  old  mintite.s. 

■'Meeting  convened  liy  Me.ssrs.  Salin(>n.  Dunlop.  Mair.  Covcrdah^  and 
others  with  the  object  of  secni-ing  more  general  and  heai'ty  co-opei-ation  upon 
tlie  (|ue.<tion  of  i-ailway  comnnniication.  and  a  \iew  to  test  the  present  political 
situation  u])on  that  subject. 

"Ml-.  Tomlinson"s  liarn — Aug.  (Uh.  ISSl.     Attendance  not  less  than  fifty. 
"Mr.  C.  P>nrchett  in  the  chair.    Mr.  W.  Salmon.  Hon.  Sec.  pro  tern.    Mr. 


JSO  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Salinoii.  a>  principal  coiivejier  of  the  ineetiiig-.  moves  the  first  resolution  em- 
bodying' the  formation  of  a  league  composed  of  two  committees,  with  detailed 
account  of  Avorking.     Seconded." 

"Mr.  Henderson.  Lardner's  Track,  is  in  favour  of  route  being  settled  prior 
to  formation  of  a  league,  and  introduces  the  second  resolution — which  is 
treated  as  an  amendment — 'That  this  meeting  is  in  favour  of  adherence  to 
the  Drouin  to  I*oowong  route.' 

'"Seconded  by  JSIr.  Cook.     Carried  unanimously. 

•'The  league  was  then  formed,  with  power  to  add  to  their  number,  consist- 
ing of  the  following: — R.  F.  Jones.  President:  C.  Burchett.  Vice-President 
and  Treasurer;  C.  Cook,  Hon.  Sec:  with  many  other  names  as  members  fol- 
lowing." 

For  the  next  few  years  the  history  of  the  settlement  is  mainly  the  history 
of  agitations  for  railway  communication.  At  first  the  people  were  unani- 
mously in  favour  of  the  Drouin  to  Poowong  route,  as  a  glance  at  the  list  of 
membership  of  the  league,  which  includes  representatives  from  Korumburra^ 
Jumbunna,  Jeetho  AVest  and  the  districts  thence  to  Drouin,  shows.  But  soon 
conflicting  interests  began  to  produce  dissension,  as  other  routes  were  pro- 
posed: and  it  is  surprising  to  note  what  a  number  of  other  routes  were  pro- 
posed. In  the  correspondence  dealt  Avith  at  a  meeting  of  the  Leagiie  held  on 
September  ITth.  1881,  I  notice  letters  from  Dr.  Dobson  and  Mr.  E.  J.  Fuller 
"re  tramway  from  Queensferry  to  Jeetho."  And  Dr.  Cutts,  Col.  Mair,  and 
Mr.  E.  C.  Holmes  waited  on  Mr.  Bent,  Minister  for  Raihvays,  to  ask  if  that 
or  the  Xeerim  line  would  prejudice  the  Drouin  to  Poowong  line. 

At  the  same  time  also,  a  line  from  Pakenham  to  Mirboo  received  the  at- 
tention of  Mr.  Bent.  That  scheme  provided  for  "a  line  86  miles  in  lengthy 
which  should  start  from  Pakenham  and  be  continued  via  Mt.  Lyell  across 
the  Bass  at  Jeetho  West,  and  tap  the  ]Mirl)oo  district  on  the  way  to  Foster."' 
But  engineering  difficulties  caused  this  to  be  abandoned. 

In  August,  1882.  the  ambitions  of  the  Drouin  to  Poowong  League  seemed 
about  to  be  realised,  for  "a  railway  commencing  at  or  near  the  Drouin  railway 
station  on  the  Melbourne  and  (Tii)pslan(l  line,  and  terminating  in  the  Parish 
of  Poowong,"  was  scheduled  m  the  Bill  of  that  time.  But,  although  after 
much  delay  and  worry  it  passed  the  Lower  House,  it  was  hung  up  in  the; 
Council,  and  a  Dissolution  following  it  was  not  included  in  the  Bill  of  1884; 
and  the  old  League,  after  much  work  and  expense,  went  out  of  business. 

About  this  time,  Mr.  Gibb,  M.L.A.  for  Mornington.  had  introduced  a 
scheme  for  a  line — the  Great  Southern — via  Cranbourne  and  the  Bass  Valley 
to  Alberton;  and  many  people  in  the  western  and  southern  portions  of  the 
settlement  had  seceded  from  the  Diouin-Poowong  League  and  given  their 
support  to  this  proposal.  Although  it  was  the  original  intention  to  take  this 
line  via  the  valley  of  the  Bass,  the  enginers  said  they  could  not  get  a  prac- 
tical grade  "out  at  the  head  of  the  valley.  So  trying  the  Allsop  Creek — a 
tributary  of  the  Bass — they  succeeded,  with  the  assistance  of  the  settlers,  in 
getting  a  practicable  but  costly  route  for  what  is  now  the  section  from  Loch, 
to  Korumburra.  The  Poowong  settlers  desiring  to  have  the  line  nearer  to 
their  district,  obtained  a  survey  by  the  late  Mr.  Norman,  of  the  Railway 
Department,  of  a  route  discovered  by  them  out  of  the  valley  of  the  Bass^ 
which  gave  the  required  grade,  but  necessitated  a  considerable  loop  in  the 
line.     Mr.   Speight  pointed  out  to  a  deputation  that  Avaited  on  him  that  it 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  i.-^l 

would  increase  the  length  of  the  line  by  nearly  two  mile--,  which,  apart  from 
the  added  cost,  was  undesirable  on  a  main  line  without  some  compensating 
advantages.  So  the  Allsop  route  was  adopted ;  but  those  who  travel  b}^  it 
between  Korumburra  and  Loch,  unless  they  are  old  identities,  little  think  that 
it  took  o^-er  two  years  of  surveying  before  a  practicable  route  Avas  discovered 
between  those  two  points.  Of  course,  the  country  was  nearly  all  under  scrub 
there  then.  On  June  -ind.  1891.  the  line  was  opened,  teii  years  after  our  first 
meeting  in  Tomlinson's  Barn  to  form  a  Railway  League.  In  the  meantime,  of 
course,  other  Leagues  had  been  formed,  and  much  hard  work  done  b}'^  the 
people  in  the  South  of  the  Settlement  to  get  the  line  through,  for  at  onfej 
time  it  looked  as  if  the  engineers  would  not  succeed. 

About  the  year  1881  there  Avas  rather  a  lull  in  the  rush  for  land  in 
the  scrub  country,  and  a  few  of  us  took  to  writing  it  up  in  the  press.  Whether 
it  was  oAving  to  that,  or  an  opportune  dry  time  in  the  north  and  in  the  other 
States,  there  Avab  a  decided  increase  in  the  demand  for  land  here.  Most  of 
the  Arawatta  country  was  a  terra  ineofpiita,  and  I  remember  taking  out  a 
number  of  men  at  different  times  to  peg  out  there.  The  folloAving  extract 
from  an  old  record  Avill  serve  to  illustrate  the  modus  operandi  of  '"selecting" 
and  "pegging'*: — ''January  26th,  1883. — Had  another  South  Australian  over, 
took  him  out  east,  camped  one  night  at  George's  hut.  left  there  5  in  the  morn- 
ing. traA'elled  east  till  11  o'clock,  then  north  and  east  and  south  and  Avest,  and 
home  to  hut  betAveen  5  and  G  o'clock.  Found  some  real  good  hazel  country. 
He  pegged  for  himself,  four  sons  and  one  daughter.  His  name  is  Branson, 
has  a  gToAvn-up  family,  and  is  the  iuA^entor  of  the  stump-jumping  plough. 
The  country  is  very  good,  but  a  long  Avay  out."  That  would  be  to  the  east  of 
AraAvatta  someAvhere.  ''George's  Hut"  Avas  near  the  confines  of  civilisation, 
Avhich  Avas  then  about  Messrs.  Lancey's  surveys.  Going  out  on  another 
occasion  with  some  more  selectors,  we  camped  the  night  Avith  Mr.  John 
Western  and  his  brother.  They  had  just  completed  a  new  hut — their  first 
attempt,  at  house  building  in  Australia,  for  they  were  "ncAv  chums."'  It  Avas  a 
very  good  hut  too — they  had  taken  more  trouble  Avith  it  than  colonials  usually 
do,  and  it  was  proportionally  more  comfortable.  They  had  a  noble  fireplace, 
round  which  we  all  sat  and  talked  till  far  into  the  night,  they  telling  us  about 
]']ngland  and  we  telling  them  about  Australia,  and  between  times  di.-^cussing 
all  the  ])i-oblems  of  the  earth,  from  the  origin  of  the  Aztecs  to  Avhether  artificial 
grass  Avould  "hold"  in  the  scrub  country.  The  late  Mr.  John  Brydon  was 
there  too,  I  remember.  He  had  just  come  doAvn,  and  was  camped  either  in  a 
tent  or  in  a  big  hollow  tree  that  had  fallen  not  far  from  Mr.  Western's  hut. 
He  had  his  stores  in  the  tree,  I  know,  but  am  not  sure  Avhether  he  was  camjied 
in  it:  there  Avas  plenty  of  room,  for  you  could  stand  up  inside  the  butt  as  it 
lay.  And  all  around  close  up  to  the  hut  Avas  the  heavy  musk  scrub  Avith' 
immense  black  butt'^  towering  above  5t:  a  little  creek  at  the  hack  crowded 
Avith  great  tree  ferns  provided  the  family  Avater  supply.  In  front  Ihe  pack 
track  ended.  WestAvard  you  Avent  b)^  it  to  civilisation:  eastward  you  went  by 
the  compass  into  the  wilderness — into  the  unknown,  Avhere  you  could  travel 
for  fifty  miles  and  see  nothing  but  scrub.  It  was  amusing  to  sec  hr)w  afraid 
men  from  the  open  country  often  were  of  Ihe  .-^crnb  when  they  wcic  any  dis- 
tance from  the  friendly  surA^ey  lines.  They  Avere  constantly  haunled  by  the 
fear  of  getting  lost;  fcAV  of  them  had  any  idea  of  direction  or  of  keeping  a 
-traight  line  through  the  scrub  iiov  yet  of  usinii,  the  conipass. 

But  selecting  here  was  soon  to  I'occive  a  check,  and  many  of  those  Avho 
selected  never  got  their  land,  for  (be  ( Jovcni  ment  reserved  about  sixty  square 
miles  of  (•oiiiifr\'  fur  miiiiii^  iiui'imisc,-.      "^Pbosc  who  li;i(l  bad  tlicii'  land  recom- 


13->  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

mended  were  all  vigiil,  but  those  who  had  just  selected  or  whose  applica- 
tions had  not  yet  been  considered  were  disappointed,  and  all  the  unselected 
country  was  closed  to  selection. 

As  this  was  considered  to  be  detrimental  to  the  district,  a  meeting  iwas 
held  in  Tomlinson's  barn,  and  later  one  at  the  ''White  Hart,"  in  Bourke-street, 
with  the  result  that  a  deputation  waited  on  the  Minister,  and  after  a  lot  oif 
worry,  red  tape  and  loss  of  time  we  got  the  reservation  removed  in  respect  of 
all  the  country  except  about  two  thousand  acres.  But  by  that  time  most  of 
those  who  had  pegged  out  had  gone  elsewhere,  declining  to  be  humbugged 
any  longer  over -it.  A  friend  of  mine  who  had  pegged  the  block  on  which 
the  Kaixiella  Station  now  stands  had  it  offered  to  him  after  the  worry  was 
over,  but  he  declined  to  go  on  with  it,  and  so  missed  a  good  thing. 

About  1882  some  of  the  earliest  settlers  about  Poowong  and  Jeetho  were 
beginning  to  show  good  results  from  the  land,  which  drew  attention  to  the 
country  and  encouraged  further  settlement.  Mr.  McTavish  in  May  of  that 
year  topped  the  Melbourne  market  with  lambs  at  11/-  a  head  and  sheep  at 
15/-  a  head,  Mr.  Kynock  also  topping  the  fat  cattle  market  Avith  bullocks  at 
£12/12/6  a  head.  In  that  year  also  was  held  the  first  horse  parade,  Messrs. 
Dunlop,  Matthews,  Scott  and  others  exhibiting. 

The  country  around  Poowong  now  began  to  look  more  settled,  and  the 
township  began  to  develop.  Goods  were  packed  out  from  it  for  many  miles 
in  all  directions;  and  from  the  Post  Office  services  were  established  and  the 
mails  carried  on  horseback  to  several  outlying  districts.  Being  the  terminus 
also  of  the  Drouin  to  Poowong  road,  it  continued  to  be  an  important  centre 
until  the  opening  of  the  railway.  But  for  the  settlement  generally  these  may 
be  called  the  "dark  ages,*'  and  they  continued  until  the  opening  of  the  lines. 
There  was  little  work  being  done,  as  the  people  had  got  through  most  of  the 
cajDital  they  came  with,  and  the  conditions  of  the  country  prevented  much 
being  done  in  the  way  of  making  money.  A  great  deal  of  the  eastern  and 
southern  country  had  not  long  been  taken  up.  The  Moyarra  road,  in  fact, 
was  not  surveyed  until  1887  by  Mr.  Lardner,  and  pack  tracks,  mud  and. 
scrub  were  still  the  leading  features  of  the  country.  But  soon  after  the  com- 
ing of  the  railway  and  the  constitution  of  the  Shire  things  began  to  improve ; 
more  land  was  cleared,  and  sheep  farming  began  to  be  profitable.  Instead 
of  being  five  or  six  days  on  the  road,  sheep  and  lambs  could  be  landed  at 
Newmarket  in  a  few  hours.  The  other  markets  of  Melbourne  were  opened 
also,  the  cost  of  living  was  reduced,  and  the  volume  of  biLsiness  was  increased 
in  many  ways.  The  butter  industry  also  began  to  develop,  and  became  one 
of  the  chief  factors  in  bringing  about  an  era  of  prosperity.  A  co-operative 
butter  factorv  Avas  established  at  Woodleigh.  also  at  Poowong.  others  at  Bena 
and  Moyarra.  and  soon  after  others  again  at  Korumburra,  Loch,  and  Kongwak. 

The  development  of  coal  mines  provided  local  markets  for  a  great  deal 
of  produce,  built  up  townships,  brought  trade  and  business,  and  helped  the 
small  gTower  in  many  ways. 

The  granting  of  local  government  soon  had  a  beneficial  effect  on  the  roads, 
for  if  we  did  not  get  nmch  roadmaking  done  we  got  the  roads  cleared,  which, 
with  the  clearing  of  the  properties  alongside,  made  a  great  improvement  on 
the  old  pack-tracks.  At  first  the  revenue  was  small  and  Ave  could  not  do  much 
— in  fact,  there  Avas  one  year  Avhen  all  Avorks  were  stopped  for  Avant  of  revenue, 
OAving  to  the  pace  having  been  too  fast  previously.  But  a  little  later,  Avhen  the 
land  became  more  valuable,  valuations  Avere  raised  and  the  revenue  increased, 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  133 

and  we  were  also  granted  considerable  sums  for  making  roads  to  railway- 
stations:  this,  together  with  pickings  which  we  got  from  time  to  time  as  the 
result  of  special  appeals  to  the  Public  Works,  enabled  the  Council  to  giva 
people  outlets  and  improve  the  roads  very  considerably.  And  now,  in  spite 
of  criticism  to  the  contrary,  I  venture  to  say  that  neither  Government  nor 
Country  Roads  Board  could  have  administered  the  revenue  more  honestly  or 
to  better  advantage  than  the  local  Council  has  done. 

The  decade  from  1890  to  1900  Avas  an  eventful  one  in  the  settlement.  In 
acldition  to  the  events  mentioned — the  opening  of  the  railway,  the  establish- 
ing of  local  government,  etc. — it  was  memorable  on  account  of  a  great  snow- 
storm in  1895.  The  snow  broke  down  a  great  deal  of  the  scrub,  lay  for  a  week 
in  some  of  the  shaded  gullies,  and  was  a  foot  deep  on  the  clearings.  On 
February  1st,  1898,  Mas  the  great  fire — Red  Tuesday,  it  was  called.  This  was 
the  biggest  disaster  the  settlement  ever  knew,  but  as  it  hardly  belongs  to  early 
pioneering  days  a  short  reference  will  suffice.  The  worst  part  of  the  fire 
seemed  to  come  from  the  ^^'arragul  side  on  a  strong  north-east  mnd.  but  there 
were  other  centres  of  fire  as  well,  and  before  night  practically  all  the  settlement 
had  been  swept.  Homesteads  were  burnt  in  all  diretcions,  most  of  the  fencing 
was  destroyed,  numbers  of  sheep  and  cattle  Avere  burnt  or  killed  by  falling 
timber,  and  the  survivors  roamed  at  large  and  starving  over  the  desolated 
country.  Most  of  the  stock  that  were  saved  were  taken  down  to  the  bayonet 
grass  pJains  near  the  coast  or  elsewhere  out  of  the  district.  Those  that  re- 
mained were  fed  on  hay  or  chaff  brought  from  Melbourne.  The  country  was 
covered  with  fallen  timber,  and  the  people  had  to  start  clearing,  sowing, 
fencing  and  building  again.  Great  quantities  of  dogwood  came  up,  but  it  was 
cut  after  a  time  and  the  fallen  timber  burned  oft",  and  the  country  looked  better 
than  before.  Prosperous  years'  followed,  and  will  continue  to  follow,  for  its 
nearness  to  Melbourne,  its  climate  and  its  soil  give  the  country  advantages  that 
are  perinanent  mid  invaluaVjle. 

The  roads  no  doubt  are  still  bad  in  the  A\'inter  time  in  places,  but  com- 
pared with  the  past — what  a  change!  The  visitor  from  the  city  sneers  at 
them — the  old  pioneer  thinks  of  the  early  days,  of  the  days  when  he  bored 
through  the  tangled  scrub  with  compass  and  tomahawk  in  search  of  an  outlet 
and  glad  if  he  could  find  a  decent  pack  track ;  of  the  days  Avhen  he  had  to 
force  sheep  and  cattle  through  those  tracks  and  pack  in  through  them  every- 
thing he  used,  and  out  Through  them  everything  he  sold  except  what  could 
Avalk  out.  He  thinks,  too,  of  the  time  and  money  and  effort  that  he  Jias 
expended  over  those  pack  tracks  and  roads,  over  railway  leagues  and  municipal 
agitations,  over  clearing  and  sowing  and  building.  He  thinks  of  the  Great 
Fire  and  its  disasters,  of  the  re-building,  re-clearing,  and  re-sowing.  Then  he 
wonders  if  succeeding  generations  will  ever  understand  what  .South  Gippsland 
cost  the  early  pioneer.s — what  it  cost  them  in  money,  in  effort,  and  in  years. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  H.  DOWEL. 

My  father  and  I  landed  at  Grantville  in  March, 
1875,  coming  from  Melbourne  to  Hastings  by  coach, 
and  from  there  to  Grantville  in  Jones'  fishing  boat. 
After  staying  at  Grantville  for  about  a  week,  we  went 
to  the  Bass  river  and  pitched  our  tents  and  com- 
menced stripping  wattlebark  and  splitting  staves  for 
sale  in  Melbourne.  We  carted  the  bark  and  staves  to 
Grantville  with  a  bullock  team  until  the  road  was 
unfit  to  cart  on,  and  then  started  to  pack  them,  using 
SIX  horses  which  I  had  to  drive,  making  two  trips 
a  day  from  the  Bass  to  Grantville,  a  distance  of 
about  six  miles. 

In  about  two  years'  time,  finding  that  the  bark 
and  staves  were  not  paying,  and  the  land  on  the  Bass 
Ijeino-  thrown  open  for  selection,  we  started  to  guide 
the  selectors  to  their  respective  holdings.  From  the 
hills  on  the  west  side  of  the  Bass  we  could  see  a 
great  belt  of  green  timber,  so  we  decided  to  explore 
MR.  W.  McK  •  Mr<H**'t'vi  this  timbered  country.  Providing  ourselves  with  a 
compass,  we  started  off,  and  found  it  to  be  apparently  good  country,  covered 
Avith  a  dense  forest  of  musk,  hazel,  etc. 

Aft«r  this  we  started  and  cut  a  pack-track  through  the  scrub  as  far  as 
what  is  now  Mr.  T.  Homer's.  From  there  we  went  through  the  scrub  with 
the  aid  of  a  compass,  and  blazed  a  track  coming  out  on  a  portion  of  Captain 
Fuller's  block  at  Bena.  Mr.  Delaney  and  his  sister  were  the  first  to  peg  out 
land  at  Woodleigh.  My  father  was  next,  selecting  110  acres  there,  and  Mr. 
W.  Bonwick  followed  on  further  to  the  east. 

A  great  influx  of  settlers  now  took  place.  They  came  from  all  parts  to 
secure  land  in  this  virgin  forest  now  that  it  was  thrown  open  for  selection,  and. 
being  acquainted  with  the  lay  of  the  country,  and  having  by  experience  proved 
to  be  expert  bushmen,  we  were  able  to  show  numbers  of  them  suitable  blocks 
to  peg  out. 

Among  the  early  ones  was  Mv.  R.  Ward,  who  selected  at  Woodleigh,  but 
threw  up  his  block  and  later  on  acquired  320  acres  at  Almurta.  Mr.  Flack 
subsequently  took  this  abandoned  block.  Messrs.  Scanlon  and  Fribbs  took  up 
blocks  adjoining  Mr.  Ward's  on  the  east,  and  in  that  direction  the  tide  of 
newcomers  selected  their  holdings,  the  majority  of  whom  were  piloted  in  by 
us.  Among  these  were  Messrs.  A.  Ward,  Cron,  Matt.  Bowmian,  and  Jas. 
Clarke,  where  M.  Bowman,  junr.,  and  Painter  now  are. 

On  the  south  of  my  father's  block  we  showed  in  Messrs.  Magill,  Henry 
and  Michie,  and  later  on  Messrs.  Biggar,  Louis  Stew^art,  Edwards,  Scott,  Sheep- 
way,  Jos.  White,  Uren,  R.  Wilson,  J.  Thompson,  McKenzie  and  W.  Thompson 
selected  there. 


RECOLLECTIOxNS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  l.v, 

The  first  scrub  we  cut  at  Woodleigh  was  50  acres  for  ]Mr.  Warris.  of  Ballan. 
We  started  to  pick  it  up,  when  he  threw  up  the  land,  and  Mr.  J.  Hayes  took 
it  up,  and  still  holds  it. 

A  surveyor  named  Hargreaves  about  this  time  surveyed  the  road  from 
Woodleigh  eastAvard  towards  what  is  noAv  Bena,  and  I  worked  for  14  weeks 
for  him  while  he  surveyed  neAv  blocks.  There  were  11  of  us  in  the  camp,  which 
was  pitched  on  what  is  now  Mr.  McCabe's  land,  which  was  the  first  block  I 
assisted  to  survey.  I  had  to  cut  the  lines  clear  of  timber  and  branches  for 
sighting,  and  later  was  promoted  to  the  duty  of  flag  plumbing.  Messrs. 
Canobio's,  E.  J.  Wilson's  and  Bunn  Bros.'  blocks  were  then  surveyed,  and  we 
shifted  camp  to  M.  O'Donnell's,  and  from  there  surveyed  Rose's  and  O'Don- 
nell's  land.  Later  on  the  camp  removed  to  Patterson's,  ncnv  Whitelaw,  when 
I  left  it. 

Meanwhile  as  settlement  progressed  my  father  started  a  store,  the  first  in 
the  district,  at  AVoodleigh.  He  had  built  a  four-roomed  house  with  verandah 
entirely  of  blackwood,  making  the  walls,  paling  roof,  uprights  and  slabs  for 
floor  all  of  that  valuable  timber,  which  grew  plentifully  in  large  trees  in  the 
surrounding  scrub,  and  was  verv  free  to  work. 

Later  on  my  father  had  a  three-horse  team  with  which  he  used  to  travel 
all  the  surrounding  country,  including  Grantville,  Kilcunda,  Anderson's 
Inlet,  and  Tarwin  as  far  as  ^Varatah  Bay.  selling  all  sorts  of  goods — drapery, 
boots,  jewellery,  etc.  That  was  iboul  80  years  ago.  and  the  journey  took  over 
a  week  to  perform. 

There  vvas  plenty  of  work  cutting  scrub  for  the  newcomers  and  those  who, 
as  yet,  lived  in  other  parth.  I  took  my  share,  and  up  to  the  time  when  I 
selected  land  of  my  own.  I  helped  to  cut  3000  acres.  I  left  the  survey  camp, 
and,  in  company  with  my  father,  my  brother  George  and  Mv.  Henry  Bonwick, 
we  cut  50  acres  for  Air.  W.  Bonwick.  the  hitter's  father.  Later  on  we  cut 
80  acres  for  Mr.  Harding.  100  for  Mr.  Jas.  Clarke.  100  acres  for  my  father, 
and  100  for  Air.  Delanev.  Out  of  the  scrubcutting  season  I  used  to  take  all 
sorts  of  work,  and  at  last  selected  110  acres  at  (ylenalvie.  After  cutting  some 
scrub  and  sowing  the  burn  with  grass  seed,  I  started  dairying,  milking  17 
cows,  and  sent  the  butter  to  Melbourne,  getting  4d.  per  lb.  for  it.  and  at  the 
end  of  the  year  I  foimd  that  T  had  oidy  made  £17.  I  had  to  i)ack  the  butter 
as  far  as  Mr.  Jos.  Thompson's  at  Ki-owera.  a  distance  of  about  eight  miles, 
and  he  took  it  on  to  Jeetlio.  cliarging  Od.  per  box.  Sometimes  when  T  had 
only  one  bo.\  to  pack  I  would  get  a  bag  of  dirt  or  stones  to  put  on  the  other 
side  to  make  (he  pack  l)alance.  I  cut  the  balance  of  the  scrub  on  the  block 
the  second  year  and  sowed  it  down  with  grass,  and  then  milked  about  30  cows, 
and  purchased  a  De  Laval  separator  and  packed  the  cream  to  the  Moyarra 
Butter  Factory.  That  year  I  made  about  €'100,  Avhich  I  considered  very  satis- 
factory foi-  the  first  year's  turnoAcr.  In  jiacking  the  cream  to  Moyai'ra  I  had 
Lance  Greek  to  cross,  and  as  there  was  no  l)ridge  I  had  to  carry  the  cream 
over  the  creek  on  a  log  and  then  swim  the  horse  over  when  the  creek  was 
flooded.  A  ni-ighbour  erected  a  tempoiarv  bridge  over  the  creek,  and  one 
day  when  the  ricek  was  flooded  he  was  carting  his  cream  ovi-r  the  bridge  with 
a  hor.se  and  sledge,  when  (he  biidge  started  to  drift  down  the  creek  with  the 
lot.  After  some  difTiculty  the  man  reached  (he  bank  safely,  but  the  horse  was 
drowned.  Xext  day  (he  neigliboui-  and  T  went  and  got  the  sledge  and  liorse 
out  of  (he  creek  wi(h  a  bullock'  team.  That  was  one  can  of  ci'eani  that  never 
reached  Moyarra  Factory,  there  Ix'ing  more  saiul  than  cream  in  the  can. 

.\f(er  living  in  (ilcnalvie  for  17  years'.  T  decided  to  s<ll  out.  and  7  (hen 
came  and  s('((led  in  Movarra. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  J.  ECCLES. 


I  was  pleased  to  learn  that  a  meeting  of  those 
who  have  been  associated  since  the  early  days  with 
the  progress  and  welfare  of  this  fair  province  of 
^'ictoria  had  been  convened  with  the  object  of  col- 
lecting material  for  the  compilation  of  a  historical 
record  of  pioneers  and  pioneering  work;  and  I  felt 
proud  of  being  one  of  those  who,  it  was  expected, 
could    furnish    material    for    such    a    record.     The 
period   of  which  I   write  is  in  the  seventies   and 
early  eighties  of  last  century.     The  lands  of  South 
Gi]:)psland  were  available  for  selection.  The  Govern- 
ment, to  show  its  good  faith  in  the  belief  that  a 
new  province  coidd  be  added  to  Victoria,  had  caused 
to  be  cut  through    the    dense    forest    a    highway 
which    was',    and    is    still,    laiown    as  McDonald's 
Track.     Along  this  cleared  cut,  men  possessed  of 
that  spirit  of  enterprise  which  is  characteristic  of 
the  British  race,  tramped,  in  many  cases  all  the  way 
from   Cranbourne.      Pushing  out   south-Avest   from 
various  points  of  the  track,  these  early  landseekers  entered  a  primeval  forest, 
practically  undefaced  by  the  hand  of  man,    and    untenanted  by  aught    but 
wallabies,  native  bears  and  other  harmless  fauna.     Settlement  had  already 
taken  place  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Poowong,  and,  as  a  rule,  each     new- 
comer pegged  out  his  selection  as  near  to  the  already  selected  area  as  he  could 
get  it.      Anyone  unaquainted  with  the  early  history  of  the  place  might  be 
easily  led  to  conclude  that  the  sturdy  men  who  first  settled  doAAn  to  carve 
homes  out  of  the  ti-ackless  forest,  where  giant  eucalypts'  struggling  for  sun- 
light, toAvered  over  a  lesser  growth  of  blaclcAvood,  hazel.  Avattle,  musk,  l)l:iiiket-' 
wood,  dogwood,  fern  and  Aviregrass.  must  assuredly  have  been  bred  to  (he  soil. 
That  this,  in  many  instances.  Avas  not  so.  a  glance  in  restrospect  at  these  early 
comers  will  suilU-o  to  show.     Waltci'    Johnston  forsakes  the  deck    of   a    mer- 
cantile clipper,  and  settles  doAvn  Avhere  Whitehnv's  Track  now  is.    William 
Langhi>ni  liuilds  himself  a  hf>me  at  lA'y  Hill.    Jones    leaA'es  the  architect's 
office  and   builds  himself  a  house  of  A'ery    primitive    architectu.re    near    the 
source  of  the  Bass,  which,  aftcc  the  lajise  of  a  few  years,  he  pass'es  on  to  the 
late  Tlcjiry  Siiiid(>r.N.     Matthews  I>ro.s..  from  India,  erect  a  bungaloAv  on  a  hill 
overlooking  the  same  stream.     John  Ness  and  TTenry  Eccles  settle  doAvn  on 
adjoining  areas  along  Wliitelaw's  Track.     Harry  Williams  bids  farcAvell  to 
station  life  on  the  Tapper  Muri-ay,  and  finds'  a  home  farther  south.    Christo- 
pher Mackey,  tiring  of  a  soldiei-'s  life  on  the  north -western  fi-ontier  of  India, 
hcAvs  down  the  forest  trees  close  to  Avhere  the  toAvnship  of  Korumburra  now 
stands,  Avhile  a  '•brither  Scot."  Andrew  Mackay,  engages  in  the  same  occupa- 
tion on  an  adjoining  area.    Other  pioneers,  notably  H.  HeAvitt,  C.  BIcav  and 
Kewish.  settle  doAvn  in  the  pi-oximity  of  Avhat  is  noAV  WhitelaAv.    The  Patter- 
son P>ros.,  still  keeping  in  coniart  with  the  s'oftgoods  business,  open  up  under 
the  histoiie  name  "Otterburn" :  and  W.  Blake  imposes  the  equally  historic 


138  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

name  "Chevy  Chase"'  on  the  clearino;  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road.  Other 
early  settlers  in  the  immediate  vicinit}-  of  Korumburra  were  Christopher  and 
James  Yorath,  new  arrivals  from  Wales;  also  John  and  Wyndham  Thomas 
(uncle  and  nephew)  ;  while  on  the  south  side  of  Coal  Creek.  Peter  Shingler 
and  Ernest  Smith,  fresh  arrivals  from  rural  England,  peg  out  two  selections 
and  enter  upon  real  pioneering  v,ork.  building  first  a  primitive  dwelling 
which  for  some  few  years  marked  the  limit  of  settlement  in  that  direction. 

When  we  hear  of  brave  men  venturing  into  unloiown  and  unexplored  re- 
gions of  the  earth,  enduring  almost  incredible  hardships,  merely  to  widen  our 
geogi'aphical  knowledge,  we  are  full  of  admiration,  and  thrill  with  pride  in 
our  race;  and  I  venture  to  say,  without  much  fear  of  contradiction,  that  the 
sturdy  pioneers  who  penetrated  and  carved  homes  out  of  this  Avilderness  of 
vegetation  were  built  of  the  stuff  of  which  heroes  are  made.  Armed  with  an 
axe.  the  newcomer,  as  a  rule,  first  cut  a  bridle  track  along  hillsides,  into  deep 
gullies;  here  through  fern  beds,  there  across  the  boles  of  fallen  trees,  till  a 
neighbouring  clearing  or  a  track  cut  by  an  earlier  settler  was  reached,  thus 
giving  a  connection  with  the  provision  store  and  the  outside  world.  The 
Spring  and  early  Summer  months  heard  the  sounds  made  by  the  swinging 
axe  reverberating  through  the  forest  hills  and  vales,  for  scrub-cutting  was 
proceeding  apace,  each  settler  being  anxious  to  get  as  many  acres  levelled  as 
the  time  at  his  disposal  would  admit.  Then,  as  the  sunny  period  crept  on, 
anxiety  deepened,  for  a  good  burn  meant  not  only  a  saving  of  labour,  but  the 
preparation  of  a  good  seed  bed.  Then  followed  the  laborious  and  gi'imy  task 
of  picking  up  and  throwing  into  heaps  the  charred  poles  that  fire  had  failed 
to  reduce  to  ashes.  Fire  was  again  employed  to  rid  the  land  of  these  heaps, 
and  then  succeeded  the  sowing  of  European  grasses.  This  pressing  business 
completed,  the  settler  knocked  off  work,  not  to  carry  bricks,  for  there  were 
none,  but  to  hew  palings  and  rafters  out  of  the  bluegums'  and  blackbutts,  that, 
for  want  of  lateral  syjace.  shot  upwards  to  the  amazing  height  of  some  250 
feet,  in  order  to  build  himself  a  decent  habitation ;  for  at  the  beginning  he 
was  mainly  either  a  tent  dweller  or  a  hut  dweller.  An  ever  present  necessity 
was  the  opening  of  a  dray  track  to  admit  of  goods  inwards  and  outwards 
being  transported  in  larger  bulk  than  was  possible  on  a  pack  saddle,  a  means 
of  transport  extensively  employed  for  some  years.  A  Government  party, 
nnder  the  command  of  a  surveyor  named  Whitelaw,  had  cut  a  track  from 
Stocln^ard  Creek  with  the  intention  of  forming  a  junction  with  McDonald's 
Track,  but  for  some  reason,  failed  to  do  so.  and  slopyied  some  few  miles 
short.  ^Hien  the  first  settlers  pushed  their  way  through,  some  miles  south, 
they  Avere  surprised  to  find  this  track.  To  make  a  dray  track  between  this 
terminal  and  McDonald's  Track,  a  number  of  pioneers — Hewitt.  Blew.  Lang- 
liam.  Johnston,  Eccles  and  Ness — formed  a  working  bee.  and.  after  eight 
weeks  of  laborious  work  along  the  watershed  of  the  Tarwin  and  Bass  river 
basins,  made  the  long-wished-for  junction.  So  well  protected  was  this  track 
from  the  sun's  rays  that,  even  in  Summer,  the  surface  never  properly  drier, 
while  the  first  rains  of  Winter  made  a  change  rapid  and  complete.  The 
fairly  good  road  became  a  mere  sludge  channel,  where  the  pack-saddle  and 
the  sledge  competed  in  a  sort  of  fi'iendly  rivalry.  An  event  of  some  moment, 
particularly  to  the  rising  generation,  was  the  advent  of  a  State  school.  Mr. 
Inspector  Tynan,  after  visiting  the  locality,  and  seeing  the  necessity  for  such 
an  institution,  arranged  for  a  building  to  be  constructed  and  leased  to  the 
department.  This  pioneer  educational  establishment,  built  on  very  primitive 
lines,  out  of  gum  trees  that  had  grown  on  or  about  the  site.  Avas  in  one 
respect  on  ideal  modern  lines — the-  ventilation   was  perfect — but  in   anc^ther 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  139 

respect  it  had  a  senon;-  defect,  which  might  be  classed  ''fatal,-'  it  was  not 
snake  proof.  Here,  in  this  bush-built  school,  with  Mr.  E.  F.  Williamson  in 
charge,  the  sons  and  daughters  of  many  of  the  pioneers  w^ere  educated — 
lads  who  have  since  become  shrewd,  prosperous  men.  in  professions,  in  busi- 
ness, in  farming  and  grazing  pursuits,  and.  abo^e  all.  respected  and  reputable 
citizens  of  our  Commonwealth. 

Thus  the  earh^  years  of  settlement  came  and  went,  each  succeeding  year 
saAv  the  clearings  extending,  and  more  and  more  acres  of  English  grasses 
gi'owing  on  the  heavily  fertilised  soil,  with  an  unsurpassed  luxiu'iance.  It 
Avas  not.  however,  the  fortune  of  the  settlers  to  gather  in  every  case  where 
they  had  sown.  More  often  than  not,  a  crop  of  grass,  the  first  fi-uit  fi-om  the 
soil,  was  destroyed  in  an  incredibly  short  time  by  a  devastating  horde  of 
caterpillars.  Yet.  despite  all  difficulties  and  discouragements,  the  sturdy 
pioneers  pursued  their  heavy  task  Avith  a  courage  Avorthy  of  all  praise,  the 
lowering  clouds  slowly  uplifted,  dairying  and  other  kindred  industries  struck 
their  roots,  a  stream  of  Avealth  that  has  never  ceased  to  increase  in  volume 
to  the  present  time  began  to  flow  in:  the  era  of  prosperity  had  arriA^ed. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  FRANK  DODD. 

Alter  suffering  the  heat  and  discomfort  in  Echuca 
and  Ehnore — 1864-1878 — and  the  deaths  of  four 
children,  my  wife  and  I  decided  to  move  to  a  cooler 
climate.  South  Gippsland  was  chosen.  In  Xmas 
week,  L877,  I  reached  Moe.  and  engaged  Mr.  John 
Gallagher  to  show  me  the  land.  We  reached  the 
Tarwin  river  on  January  1st.  1878.  and  I  pegged 
out  320  acres.  In  the  following  September  I  had 
scrub  cut  at  22/6  per  acre,  and  then  returned  home 
for  Xmas. 

AMien  we  came  into  Gippsland  the  railway  was 
not  completed  to  Melbourne,  having  been  built  from 
Sale.  Staying  at  Mor\\ell  for  one  night  on  my 
return  at  the  Club  Hotel,  which  was  then  only  a 
bark  and  sapling  dwelling.  I  left  next  morning  for 
Mirboo  Xorth.  accompanied  by  my  son,  Messrs. 
Geo.  Goldsmith,  senr..  and  Wm.  Wright,  who 
worked  for  me  at  that  time.  The  latter  had  with 
him  on  this  occasion  the  first  domestic  cat  to  be 
brought  out  to  Mirboo.  We  reached  Mirboo  Xorth  that  night  and  stayed 
with  Mr.  J.  Gallagher,  who  had  tAvo  large  tents  pitched  in  the  scrub  on  Mr. 
Mai.  Brennan's  selection.  We  had  partly  walked  and  partly  ridden  the  20 
miles,  the  horses  being  tied  up  to  musk  trees,  and  with  plenty  of  wiregrass 
growing  around  they  Avere  able  to  get  their  fill,  for,  l)e  it  known,  that  there 
was  no  English  grass  at  that  time,  and  chaff  could  not  be  carried.  This  first 
night  in  the  bush,  filled  as  it  was  in  those  days  with  wild  animals,  such  as 
wallabies  and  opossums,  together  wdth  bird  life,  is  something  to  remember. 
The  journey  was  completed  next  day.  10  miles  fiu'ther  on  to  the  Tarwin  river. 
Thus  we  came  into  the  wild  bush  of  South  Gippsland  in  the  l«st  week  of  the 
year  1878.  My  nine-year-old  son  was  the  smallest  specimen  of  the  white 
human  race  to  see  the  Tarwan  river  in  those  days,  and  claims  to  be  the 
youngest  jjioneer  of  the  Mirboo  district.  The  first  days  were  full  of  excite- 
ment, and  truly  the  forerunner  of  many  stirring  incidents  that  were  to  follow, 
for.  it  must  be  i-emembered.  that  we  were  30  miles  from  the  nearest  railway 
station,  also  butcher,  baker  and  grocer,  and  70  miles  from  the  nearest  doctor. 
As  there  Avas  no  grass  on  the  river  at  that  time,  the  horses  had  to  be  taken 
back  to  Mirboo  Xorth.  now  "Baromi.''  for  gi*azing.  This  meant  that  when 
you  wanted  to  go  to  Morwell,  the  nearest  railway  station.  30  miles  awa.v,  you 
had  to  walk  the  first  10  miles  to  catch  your  horse.  The  amount  of  vegetation 
at  this  time  was  Avonderful.  The  blackbutt  trees  ran  up  to  a  height  of  300 
feet,  the  blackwood  trees  90  to  100  feet,  and  the  musk,  hazel,  pittosporum, 
blanket-Avood.  jeal  wood  and  seA^eral  kinds  of  myrtle,  with  supplejack  and  the 
lovely  ferns  all  comliined  to  make  up  a  dense  mass  of  undergnnvth  very  hard 
to  penetrate,  and  one  could  easily  lose  their  bearings  in  such  a  jungle.  In 
one  gidly.  "Marsh's.''  there  Avere  skeleton  ferns  OA^er  70  feet  liigh.  and  one 
Queen  fern  measured  15  feet  in  circumference  at  3  feet  fi'om  the  ground.    A 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  Ul 

lot  of  good  splitting  timber  was  available  for  building  purposes;  the  manner 
of  getting  it  split  aa  as  at  first  rather  crude,  but  in  a  short  time  better  methods 
prevailed. 

At  this  time  the  butchers.  "HoAvlett  and  Ellis,"  of  Xarracan.  over  30  miles 
away,  used  to  call  once  a  fortnight  with  a  piece  of  good  fresh  meat,  together 
with  a  quantity  of  salt  junk.  They  also  brought  letters  and  papers,  and 
took  letters  back  for  posting.  Of  course,  everything  was  packed  in  on  horse- 
back, and  along  very  narrow  tracks,  Turton"s  and  Lydiard's  Tracks  respec- 
tively. 

Early  in  the  year  1879  we  were  surprised  one  Sunday  morning  to  see  two 
blackfellows  and  a  white  man,  who  soon  made  their  mission  known.  They 
were  in  search  of  AViberg.  the  ship's  carpenter  from  the  s.s.  "Avoca.''  He 
had  left  the  ship,  taking  with  him  a  box  of  5000  sovereigns  that  did  notl 
belong  to  him  —  hence  this  visitation  of  Detective  Eason  and  two 
blacktrackers.  Their  intention  was  to  follow  the  river  down  and 
come  upon  AViberg  from  the  rear,  iis  it  was  known  that  he 
was  li\ing  about  the  mouth  of  the  River  Tarwiu.  at  '".Vuderson's 
Inlet."  The  party  stayed  all  day,  and  did  some  damper  making, 
also  they  made  fire  Avith  their  fire  sticks  of  "jealwood,"  a  scrub  tree  that  was 
very  plentiful  in  the  l)ush  at  that  time.  The  method  of  raising  fire  Avith  them 
was  very  simple — a  piece  of  Avood  about  1^  inches  in  diameter  Avas  split  in 
half,  a  countersunk  hole  made  on  the  flat  side,  and  groove  cut  from  that  to 
the  edge  of  the  piece  of  wood,  and  then  a  small  round  piece  of  similar  Avood 
fitted  at  the  end  into  the  countersunk  hole.  The  small  piece  of  wood  was 
then  turned  with  the  hands  after  the  manner  of  a  diill.  This  caused  a  fric- 
tion, and  in  a  very  short  time  began  to  smoke.  The  little  black  particles  Avere 
ruji  doAvn  the  groove  on  to  some  very  fine  bark  and  then  blown  into  a  flame. 

An  amusing  incident  took  place  betAveen  the  butchej-  and  this  party.  Mr. 
Ellis  A\as  returning  from  the  river  after  delivering  his  meat.  He  Avas  Avalk- 
ing  behind  his  pack-horse,  and,  as  it  Avas  raining  hard,  had  a  bag  over  his 
head  and  shoulders  to  keep  ofl'  the  wet.  Suddenly,  to  his  surprise,  a  black- 
felloAv  spi-ang  out  from  behind  a  tree,  and,  presenting  a  gun  at  him,  ordered 
him  to  hold  u|)  his  hands.  Of  course,  he  did  so  in  the  shortest  time  possible, 
and  then  another  blackfelloAv  and  a  Avhite  man  came  on  the  scene — they  were 
aftei-  AViberg,  and  thought  they  had  got  him.  This  joke  Avas  told  for  many 
a  day  aftorAvards  round  the  cam])  fires.  Xeedless'  to  say,  this  party  did  not 
get  AA^iberg.  It  is  said  that  after  leaAing  our  camp  they  Avent  doAvn  the  riA'er 
a  day's  journey  and  fuuked  on  it.  did  some  fishing  and  returned  to  MorAvell. 

At  this  time  things  began  to  move  forAvard  and  it  Avas  thought  that  the 
good  r)ld  adage,  "(jod  helps  those  Avho  help  themseh'es"  should  be  put  into 
action.  In  I)eceml)er.  1878.  a  public  ineeting  was  called  1o  foi-in  a  \igilance 
01-  ])i'ogi-ess  committee.  This' consisted  of  Mesrs.  F.  Dodd  (chairman),  Keogh, 
Maiilon.  Scott  and  J.  II.  Jagoe  (secretary).  The  object  Avas  to  obtain  better 
coininiuiication  with  the  outside  Avoiid.  and  to  this  end  it  Avas  decided  that  a 
dray  road  should  l)e  cut  from  Vinnar  via  PenaJuma's  (now  Boolan-a),  crossing 
the  MoiAvell  iwrv  there,  then  up  to  Earl's  and  Manton's,  and  on  to  the  TarAvin 
river,  finishing  up  at  the  -28  mile  tree,  Avhose  stump  still  stands.  That  Avas'  the 
distance  fi-om  Moe,  on  wlmt  Avas  knoAvn  as  Lydiard's  Track.  It  Avas  decided 
that  each  selector  should  go  himself  and  Avork,  or  send  a  man  in  liis  i)lace, 
or  contribute  to.  A  start  Avas  made  at  this  Avork  about  the  latter  end  of 
February,  1870.     Duiing  this  time  some  stirring  incidents  took  place.     The 


142  RECOLLECTIONS     AXD     EXPERIENCES. 

Summer  was  a  dry  one  and  the  m  hole  country  got  on  fire.  Fortunately,  most 
of  the  men  were  away  on  the  road  engaged  in  clearing,  and  so  the  danger  of 
loss  of  life  was  reduced:  for  it  must  be  remembered  that  there  was  not  any 
clear  space  at  all — only  suflicient  to  pitch  the  tents  on.  Let  me  give  one 
experience.  The  butcher  had  jnst  gone  a  little  while  before,  after  having 
called  on  his  fortnightly  trip,  when  we  observed  a  fire  some  distance  away. 
Before  long  it  came  close  to  our  camp  at  Mr.  Marsh's.  I  and  my  son  went 
across  to  help  Mr.  J.  Rodgers,  who  worked  for  Mr.  Henrj^  Marsh  while  he  was 
away  road  clearing,  to  shift  camp.  Tent,  blankets,  etc..  were  carried  across  the 
river  for  safety.  When  we  returned,  we  looked  round  for  our  dinner,  some  of 
the  nic(^  beef  steak  left  by  the  butcher.  It  had  been  cooked  and  left  in  the 
frying  pan  by  the  camp  fire.  To  our  dismay,  we  found  the  dog  had  finished 
it  otf  and  was  busy  licking  out  the  pan.  Later  on  in  the  day  the  fire  crossed 
the  river,  and  then  Ave  had  Mr.  Marsh's  camp  and  our  own  to  shift.  Two  days 
after  the  Avincl  cho]:)ped  round  and  we  had  to  move  the  camp  a  third  time. 
Afterwards  aa'c  Avere  safe  from  fire,  but  it  was  a  fortnight  before  we  saw  any 
fi-esh  faces,  for  the  Avhole  country  Avas  alight,  and  Ave  could  not  get  out.  nor 
could  anyone  get  in  to  us.  The  smoke  Avas  dreadful,  and  though  the  moon  Avas 
at  the  full  during  this  period  Ave  did  not  see  it,  and  for  days  the  sun  wa:g 
obscured.  The  last  two  days  of,  shall  I  say,  our  imprisonment  we  had  only 
oatmeal  and  treacle  to  IIa'c  on.  Trees  were  falling  at  the  rate  of  one  a  minute 
for  some  periods  of  the  time.  As  far  as  memory  serves  me,  we  were  the  only 
people  on  the  river  at  that  time — the  remainder  being  aAvay  on  road  clearing. 
TheA'.  too.  had  some  exciting  times  Avith  bush  fires,  tree  felling  and  bridge 
building. 

Tlie  river  at  this  time  attnrded  some  iLi(ii:d  li>luii,i;,.  Ijeiug  lu'actically 
full  of  blackfish.  It  was  during  Christmas  week.  1878.  that  Mr.  Peter  Car- 
michael  brought  some  English  trout  and  placed  them  in  the  river,  but  they 
were  iieA-er  seen  after.  "When  the  road  had  been  cut  through  and  the  selectors 
returned  to  the  blocks  of  land,  things  began  to  move  a  little  more,  though  the 
Avork  was  very  hard  and  most  of  the  settlers  were  inexperienced  Avith  the  new 
order  of  things.  The  greatest  celebrity  at  that  time  Avas  Jack  (xallagher.  who 
AAas  malring  any  amount  of  moiiey  by  land  shoAving  at  £'10  per  block,  and  in 
some  cases  having  tAvo  or  three  men  Avith  him  on  one  trip.  People  must  have 
had  land  hunger  very  badly  at  that  time,  for  they  not  only  had  to  pay  their 
£10  down  to  Gallagher,  but  it  meant  a-Avalk  of  30  miles  each  Avay — no  motor 
car  in  tho.se  days.  He  was  a  splendid  specimen  of  a  bushman,  with  .steel- 
grey  eyes  that  seemed  to  look  you  through,  and  could  spin  yarns  l)v  the  hour. 
His  first  prize  story  Avas  about  himself.  He  fought  in  the  ^Nlaori  war  and 
Avas  captured  by  the  Maoris,  who  handed  him  and  another  prisoner  over  to 
the  care  of  Maori  Avomen  with  instructions  to  fatten  them  up  ready  for  the 
OAen.  Jack,  however,  Avould  not  fatten :  the  thouglit  of  it  preyed  on  his  mind 
so  much.  EA'ery  few  days  his  captors  would  feel  his  ribs  to  see  if  they  were 
putting  on  condition.  His  mate  proA'ed  of  a  better  disposition,  and  being  a 
good  "doer"'  was  eaten,  but  Jack  managed  to  esca]3e.  To  hear  him  tell  this 
story  round  the  camp  fire  at  night  and  in  the  unknoAvn  bush  made  one's  flesh 
creep. 

In  the  month  of  June  Ave  had  lieaAv  rain  and  gales,  and  one  night 
during  a  high  Avind  a  large  limb  fell  from  a  tall  tree  a  distance  of  150  or 
160  feet  across  the  ridge  pole  of  the  tent  in  Avhich  J.  Rodgers  Avas  sleeping, 
Avith  the  result  that  he  was-  pinned  to  his  bunk  and  had  .seAeral  ribs  broken. 
He  lay  thus  till  morning,  until  I.  on  the  ojiposite  side  of  the  river,  noticing 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  US' 

that  no  one  was  moving  about,  sent  one  of  my  young  men  over  to  see  what 
was  the  matter.  The  river  being  in  flood,  this  man  had  a  long  clothes  line  tied 
round  his  waist  in  case  he  should  be  swept  ott'  his  legs.  Finding  the  state 
Rodgers  was  in.  he  came  back  and  set  oA'  to  ]\Iorwell  to  bring  the  doctor. 
Meanwhile,  another  of  ni}-  employees,  J.  Millar,  undertook  to  nurse  him.  The 
bringing  of  the  doctor  was  a  long  job.  ^y.  Wright,  who  walked  to  Morwell,  30 
miles  away,  telegraphed  to  Sale  for  Dr.  McDonell,  who  came  down  and  rode 
out  the  next  day.  set  the  ribs,  etc.,  went  back  on  the  third  day,  and  Wright 
returned  again  to  his  work  on  the  fourth  day — rather  a  long  job  altogether. 
It  is  pleasing  to  relate  that  Rodgers  made  a  good  recovery.  He  left  the  dis- 
trict a  few  weeks  after — quite  satisfied  with  his  experiences  of  pioneering. 

During  the  Autumn  of  this  year  the  first  grass  seed  was  sown  and  a  fair 
acreage  was  put  down.  The  first  land  sale  of  Township  allotments  in  Mirboo 
took  place,  also  Mr.  Goldsmith,  after  purchasing  a  corner  block,  made 
preparations  to  build  a  store  and  dwelling  house.  Mrs.  Geo.  Goldsmith  was 
the  first  white  Avoman  to  visit  the  river — staying  a  few  days.  She  returned 
some  months  after  to  live  at  the  store  at  Mirboo. 

I  also  prepared  to  bring  in  my  family  and  set  to  work  to  have  timber 
sawn  for  a  three-roomed  house,  by  means  of  a  pit-saw.  This  was  slow  work 
and  cost  over  £100.  although  the  dimensions  were  only  16  feet  by  32  feet. 

Mrs.  Dodd  and  family  came  in  to  live  on  the  river  in  August,  1879.  bring- 
ing three  boys  and  two  girls.  Their  mode  of  reaching  the  new  home  was 
of  a  somewhat  exciting  character.  A  coach  was  run  at  this  time  from  Morwell 
to  Matt.  Brennan's  at  Mirboo  Xorth.  This  part  of  the  long  trip  was  all  right, 
but  from  Brennan's  to  the  Tarwin  was  done  on  horseback.  This  proved  a 
thrilling  experience  for  one  who  had  never  been  on  horseback  before,  and  to 
ride  along  a  bridle  track  such  as  that  was  required  some  nerve.  AVm.  Smith, 
who  worked  for  me.  took  the  two  girls,  one  on  each  side  of  him.  sitting  as 
bes't  they  could  on  leg  and  knee,  with  a  rope  tied  round  the  lot.  I  took  the 
youngest  boy.  a  nine  months  old  little  chap,  in  front  of  me.  and  at  one 
awkward  place  the  horse  stumbled  and  fell.  The  boy  disappeared  in  the  ferns 
and  scrub,  but  Avas  soon  recovered,  none  the  Avorse  for  his  fall.  However,  the 
journey  Avas  completed,  and  all  reached  their  ncAv  home  in  great  spirits,  and 
were  soon  settling  down  to  the  ncAv  life,  and  pioneering  began  in  earnest. 
This  Avas'  the  fir.-t  family  to  come  on  to  the  Tarwin  river  to  live.  Though  the 
life  Avas  hard  and  much  jirivation  had  to  be  endured,  the  three  eldest  sons 
and  tAvo  daughters  are  still  strong  and  lusty  and  going  well. 

As  shoAving  the  cost  of  living,  it  might  be  s'aid  here  that  I  paid  £0  for 
the  packing  of  S|  cwt.  of  goods  for  ten  miles.  In  those  days  there  were 
no  bakers  or  grocers  calling  for  orders,  and  when  there  were  families  it  was  no 
small  undertaking  to  provide  for  them.  Sickness  of  any  sort  was  practically 
unknoAvn.  and  in  any  case  one  had  to  do  most  of  their  oAvn  doctoring.  A 
bushman's  kit  ahvays  had  a  box  of  HolloAvay's  ])ills  and  a  bottle  of  Painkiller, 
also  a  pocket  knife  and  piece  of  sti'ing  in  case  of  snakebite. 

At  this  time  the  original  selectors  were  on  their  blocks — Mr.  Wm.  Hughes 
being  the  loAvest  down  the  river,  and  then  the  Goldsmiths,  Dodds.  Mars^li, 
Shearer,  Jagoe.  Hollingsworths.  Keoghs  and  Scotts.  A  railway  league  Avas 
formed,  and  in  August.  1871).  a  petition  Avas  presented  to  the  then  Minister  of 
Railways  asking  that  a  line  of  raihvay  should  be  constructed,  and  at  the  close 
of  1880  the  constiuction  of  20  miles  15  chains  of  raihvay  was  autlioi-is'ed  to 
be   made   fi-oni   Morwell   to  Mirboo.     This  raihvav  leaff'U'.  of   which    T    was 


144  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

chairman,  agitated  for  a  line  from  Moe  to  Welshpool.  Had  this  line  been  made, 
and  it  covdd  have  been  carried  through  had  the  surveyors  searched  long 
enough  for  suitable  grades,  a  magnificent  piece  of  country  would  have  been 
opened  up,  and  thousands  of  pounds  worth  of  timber  would  ha\e  been  sent 
into  the  market.  Through  there  being,  however,  no  available  outlet,  it  has 
been  destroyed  for  marketable  purposes. 

The  first  organ  to  arrive  in  the  district  was  brought  by  me,  and  was 
carried  from  the  bullock  waggon  at  Mirboo  to  my  place  in  a  sling  on  a  pole 
for  a  distance  of  four  miles.  Messrs.  Wm.  and  E.  (Toldsmith  assisted  me  in 
this.  This  instrument  was  used  afterwards  for  the  first  church  services  held 
by  the  Wesleyan  home  missionary  in  my  house,  and  is  still  in  use.  The  first 
religious  services  were,  however,  conducted  by  the  Church  of  England  clergy- 
man in  Mr.  Goldsm.ith's  store  at  Mirboo  south,  and  good  congregations  were 
the  order  of  the  day.  In  course  of  time  the  Church  of  England  people,  w^ith 
the  assistance  of  others,  built  a  very  nice  church  at  Mirboo  south,  and  this  was 
used  for  many  years,  but  was  burnt  down  in  the  big  fires  of  1898.  In  the  early 
'BO'S,  a  Wesleyan  home  missionary,  now  the  Rev.  Jas.  Smith,  was  stationed  at 
"Lyre-bird  Mound,"  near  I^eongatha,  and  it  toolc  him  three  days  to  reach  my 
house  for  tlie  purpose  of  arranging  for  Sunday  services — one  can  now  travel 
from  one  point  to  the  othei-  in  three  hours.  These  services  were  carried  on 
under  great  difficulties.  A  bugle  was  used  for  the  purpose  of  letting  the 
congregation  knoAv  when  it  was  church  time. 

Eor  many  years  the  selectors  worked  on.  spending  money,  and  making 
none.  It  is  safe  to  say  that  no  one  made  any  money  from  their  land  for  the 
first  five  or  six  years. 

In  passing  it  might  be  mentioned  that  the  bush  missionary  had  a  hard 
task  set  before  him.  The  roads  were  of  the  most  primitive  kind,  and  all 
travelling  had  to  be  done  on  horseback.  The  selector's  hospitality  was  un- 
bounded, and  the  minister  was  always  sure  of  a  warm  welcome.  The  services 
were  held  once  a  month  for  some  time. 

The  fir^t  birth  on  the  Tarwin  river  took  place  in  my  family — a  boy — 
in  February,  1880,  and  this  little  chap  died  in  November  of  the  same  year. 
As  showing  the  pluck  and  endurance  of  the  pioneer  women  as  well  as  the  men, 
I  may  be  pardoned  for  relating  the  following:  This  baby  boy  not  being 
strong,  it  was  decided  to  take  him  to  Melbourne  for  medical  advice;  this 
meant  carrying  the  child  on  horseback  30  miles  to  ^Nlorwell.  and  then  the  long 
train  journey  co  Melbourne.  The  mother  was  away  a  fortnight  and  sent  Avord 
to  say  that  the  child  was  doing  well,  and  to  meet  her  on  a  given  date  ati 
Morwell.  This  was  done,  I,  the  father  and  husband,  riding  into  Morwell, 
leading  the  spare  horse.  Imagine  the  shock  I  received  when  the  mother  put 
into  my  arms  the  body  of  the  child — it  was'  dead.  It  appears  that  the  little 
fellow  had  had  a  relapse,  and  actually  died  in  the  mother's  arms  while  attend- 
ing Dr.  Lloyd's  surgery.  The  doctor  gave  a  certificate  of  death,  and  the 
mother,  not  having  any  friends  in  Melbourne,  and  knowing  that  I  would 
€xpect  to  meet  her  in  Morwell  that  night,  brought  the  child  up  in  her  arms, 
no  one  in  the  carriage  knowing  that  the  child  was  dead.  Surely,  an  ordeal  few 
would  like  to  experience.  The  next  day.  Saturday,  the  journey  out  into  the 
bush  was  made.  I  had  to  carry  the  child  in  front  of  me  on  horseback,  and  had 
to  get  off  the  horse  in  several  places  and  walk  down  the  hills,  they  being 
too  steep  to  ride  down.  On  Siniday  morning  a  coffin  Avas  made  of  blackwood 
slabs;  the  grave  was  dug  by  INIr.  Edward  Hughes  and  another:  and  thus  on 


14(i  RECOL1.ECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Suiulay  afternoon.  November  14th.  IcSSO.  away  from  the  pomp  and  ceremony 
autl  the  btisy  thronsf.  the  little  chap  was  laid  to  rest  on  a  hig:h  bank  of  the 
Tarwin  river. 

A  week  after  this  by  eldest  son  and  1  took  away  the  first  lot  of  bullocks, 
which  had  been  brought  in  some  nine  months  lie  fore.  l)ut  owing  to  all  the 
English  grasses  being  swept  away  by  caterpillars,  the  cattle  had  to  go.  They 
were  sold  for  less  than  they  cost.  We  were  away  a  fortnight,  and  on  returning 
home  found  that  my  youngest  boy,  who  had  not  been  strong  from  birth,  and 
was  two  years  old,  had  sickened  and  died.  Thus  again  the  mother  had  been 
practically  alone  w'hen  the  second  child  died.  Again,  on  a  Sunday,  this  boy 
was  buried  beside  his  brother,  and  under  just  similar  circumstances.  Just 
about  this  time  Mr.  Geo.  Goldsmith  lost  his  Avife.  arni  he  was  left  with  a  big^ 
family. 

Mr.  ^y.  B.  Hughes,  J. P..  was  the  first  settler  to  bring  sheep  into  the 
district,  but  they  were  not  a  success,  o^ing  to  footrot  and  the  prevalence  of 
dingoes.  The  first  butcher  on  the  river  was  Mr.  AV.  Warner,  who  came  from 
Foster  and  whose  daughter  used  to  drive  sheep  from  Foster.  20  miles  distant 
along  a  narrow  bridle  track,  and  as  there  was  not  a  living  soul  between  the 
two  places,  this  was  no  small  task.  A  milch  cow  was  quite  a  novelt}^  at  this^ 
time.  The  bush  wa.s  alive  with  birrls,  the  lyre  bird  ])eing  very  much  in 
evidence.  In  July.  1879.  the  first  laughing  jackass  made  his  appearance,  also 
the  gi"ey  iay:  the  magpie  was  not  seen  for  se^seral  years  after  this  time. 

One  of  the  sights  of  tlie  bush  was  the  supplejack,  whicii  climbed  in  some 
cases  a  height  of  140  to  150  feet,  and  when  in  bloom  it  made  the  big  blackbutts 
look  very  pretty.  It  was  a  common  thing  to  cut  a  supplejack  vine  close  to  the 
ground,  and  then  by  catching  hold  of  the  hanging  rope  or  vine  to  be  able  to 
swing  out  some  40  or  50  feet. - 

Din-ing  tlie  years  1S81  and  18S8  there  were  several  incidents  of  note.  In 
the  month  of  January.  1881.  a  new  chum  by  the  name  of  Palmer  set  off  to 
Mr.  Goldsmith's  store  to  ptu'chase  some  provisions,  and  among  other  things  he 
got  potatoes,  gimpowder.  etc.  In  returning  he  took  the  wrong  road  and  went 
on  towards  I'oster  about  four  or  five  miles.  Finding  that  he  was  on  the  wrong^ 
track  he  struck  oif  through  the  bush  and  at  once  lost  his  bearings.  As  he  did 
not  return  the  next  day,  Sunday,  a  search  party  was  formed,  and  the  various 
survey  lines  were  traversed,  gims  Avere  fired  and  much  cooee-ing  done,  but  it 
was  not  till  Monday  midday  that  he  was  found  in  a  gully  half  Avay  between 
the  present  Foster  and  Farmer's  roads  about  opposite  the  pi-esent  Dumbalk 
Mechanics'  Institute.  lie  was  very  hungry,  had  lost  all  his  groceries,  etc., 
and  his  clothes  were  torn  to  shreds.  The  first  thing  that  he  asked  for  Avas 
some  pins  so  that  he,coidd  pin  up  his  torn  trousers.  He  Avas  got  out  allright 
and  in  a  fcAV  days  had  quite  recovered.  Up  to  that  time  the  letters  andi 
papers  Avere  brought  to  Mirboo  Xorth  10  miles  aAvay.  and  the  selectors  took  it 
in  tin-n  to  go  for  them  on  Sunday.  A  mail  contract  Avas  then  let.  and  the 
mails  carried  from  Foster  to  MorAvell.  via  ]Mirboo  Xorth  and  Darlimurla,  three 
days  a  Aveek  each  Avay.  The  mailmen  Avere  made  of  tough  stutF.  as  they 
covererl  fifty  miles  each  day  on  hoi-seback.  and  this  in  Winter  Avas  a  very  hard 
task  to  perform.     The  late  Mr.  J.  H.  Jagoe  Avas  the  fir^t  postmastei-  at  Mirboo. 

In  the  earl}^  '80*s  a  fine  lot  of  settlers  came  into  tire  distiict.  including  the 
Muirs.  Davies.  J.  Perrin.  S.  Perrin,  ^X.  Baines.  Berryman.  D.  Henderson. 
J.  Carmichael  and  Benn;  the  three  last  named  bringing  large  families  Avith 
them,  and   all  are  deserA-edly  entitled  to  the  greatest   praise   for  the   part 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  147 

vhich  they  took  in  pioneering  the  district.       After  these  came  Messrs.  Trease, 
"White.  Hendry  Bros..  Dale.  Patterson,  Beattie ;  all  of  whom  played  their  part 
in  opening  up  the  country,  and  though  most  of  them  have  gone  the  wa}'  of  all 
flesh,  more  especially  the  old  people,  their  names  should  be  recorded.      O^ 
those  who  selected  land  and  came  on  the  river  in  the  years  1877  and  1878,  and 
who  have  resided  continuousl}-,  only  two  remain,  viz. :  ]\Ir.  B.  AV.  Hughes  and 
myself.     Of  course.  Mr.  Geo.  Golclsmith  is  still  alive  and  living  on  the  river,, 
and  though  he  did  not  actually  select  land,  three  of  his  sons  did,  and  he  financed 
them  for  many  years,  while  he  bought  land  in  the  toAMiship  of  Mirboo,  and 
was  the  first  mnn  to  open  a  store  and  later  a  hotel  and  place  of  accommodation. 
One  incident  connected  with  Mr.  Goldsmith's  father  is  worthy  of  note,  and 
almost  reads  like  a  tale  of  fiction.    In  April,  1888,  the  old  gi-andfather  died, 
and,  having  expressed  a  wish  some  time  before  to  be  buried  alongside  my  tAvo 
boyb  on  the  baiiks  of  the  Tarwin  river,  his  wish  aa  as  carried  out :  one  of  the 
grandsons,  Jas.  Goldsmith,  ^Aent  to  Mirboo  Xorth  for  the  coffin.     It  being 
Winter,  and  the  roads  very  bad,  he  essayed  to  pack  the  collin  down  on  horse- 
back.    Being  of  an  awkward  shape,  it  would  not  ride  properly,  and  so  gave 
a  lot  of  trouble  to  balance  it.     In  one  place  it  capsized,  and  in  putting  it 
right  asain  Jim  lost  liis  boot  in  the  mud  and  could  not  find  it.    He  finished  the 
remainder  of  the  journey,  some  five  miles,  with  one  boot  on.    When  he  arrived 
at  the  house  where  the  old  man  was  lying,  it  was  just  dark.    After  the  neces- 
sary duties  had  been  performed,  a  number  of  young  men  took  turn  about 
to  carry  the  coffin  to  the  gTaye.  about  a  mile  and  a  quarter  away.    The  night 
was  dark,  and  torches  made  of  bark  were  lighted  to  show  the  way.    "When  the 
graveside  was  reached  it  was'  found  that  the  side  had  started  to  fall  in,  and 
this  was  propped  up  V)y  ])alings  on  one  side  and  stayed  across.    The  coffin  had 
to  be  lowered  end  on.  ;ind  young  F.  C.  Dodd  being  the  smallest  of  the  party, 
was  let  down  into  the  grave  so  that  he  might  lift  the  coffin  along  on  the  bottom 
of  the  grave.    This  was  no  easy  job.  and,  when  completed,  he  looked  u])  to  see 
the  faces  around  the  grave  peering  in,  and  his  father  holding  a  lighted  lainp 
so  that  the  clergyman  could  s'ee  to  read  the  bui-ial   --ervice.  rather  a   trying 
oi-deal  for  a  lad  of  l.")  or  16  years  of  age. 

A  numl)ei'  of  dangers  Avere  encountered,  the  priiicii)al  ones  being  the 
danger  of  snakebite  and  falling  timber.  Of  course,  tliese  are  still  with  the 
South  Gippsland  resident,  but  not  to  the  same  degree.  In  the  early  (lays 
there  was  no  known  antidote  for  snakebite,  and  no  doctoi-  in  case  of  ac(M(lent, 
though  it  is  surprising  the  small  number  of  accidents  that  hai)ixMie(l  in  the 
early  days'. 

The  names  of  three  men  musl  be  mentioned  in  regard  lt>  the  opening  up  of 
the  down-river  counti-y.  The.-^e  were  Messrs.  .las.  (Jilligan.  .sen.,  .1.  Findley.  and 
J.  Hutchin.  who  were  the  first  men  to  travel  dowri  the  river  fi-om  Mr.  Wm. 
Hughes'  selection  to  Ander.son's  Inlet.  Soon  after  their  trip  the  land  on  both 
sides  of  the  river  was  taken  up,  and  before  long  large  spaces  of  clearing  were 
made.  The  fii'st  mails  to  Findley's,  three  miles  from  Meeniyan,  were  carried 
by  my  son,  thi>  beijig  a  |)rivate  mail  for  some  months,  but  in  n  short  lime  it 
Avas  taken  ovci'  l)y  tlic  I^)stIllaster-G('Ileral.  nnd  iH'cainc  :i  Goxci'innciil  con- 
tract. 

The  sui'vcvor-s  who  surveyed  the  blocks  of  land  in  the  8()'s  did  much  to 
open  up  the  vallev  of  the  TarVin.  foi-emost  of  these  being  EdAvard  O'Grady, 
Langti-v.  T.angford  and  Lardner.  At  the  end  of  the  80's  the  first  State 
scliool  was  erected  l)y  the  heads  of  families,  the  timber  being  split  and  the 
Avhole  building  put "  up  principally  by  Messrs.  White.  Trease,  Dodd  and 
Hendrv. 


I4S 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


In  June.  181>0.  Mrs.  Dodd  died,  leaving  a  family  of  nine  behind.  Thus 
the  two  first  pioneer  women  died;  the  other,  Mrs.  Geo.  Goldsmith,  having 
borne  the  burdens  of  the  pioneering  w'ork  uncomplainingly.  Their  names 
should  be  wi'itten  in  large  lettei-s  on  the  scroll  of  fame,  for  they  had  to  be 
their  own  dressmakers  (no  sewing  machines  being  available),  breadmakers, 
doctors,  mu'ses,  and  attend  to  a  hundred  other  duties  besides,  often  not  seeing 
one  of  their  own  sex  for  months,  and  rearing  their  families  at  the  same  time. 

That  the  valley  had  been  inhabited  by  the  l:>lacks  in  early  times  is  proved 
by  the  fact  that  stone  tomahawks  and  stone  spear-heads  and  sharpening  stones 
have  been  found. 

At  the  end  of  1891  Mr.  James  Hendry,  of  the  Foster  road,  was  killed  by  a 
falling  spar.  His  body  was  put  on  a  sledge  and  taken  about  10  miles  in  this 
way,  and  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  the  Mirboo  Xorth  Cemetery  in  a  spring 
dray. 

Mirl)o()  and  the  surrounding  district  has  taken  a  very  heavy  toll  of  those 
who  first  Avent  into  the  forest,  as  they  did  the  hardest  work,  spent  hundreds, 
and  in  some  cases  thousands,  of  pounds  on  their  blocks  of  land  and  then  left 
them,  broken  in  pocket  as  well  as  in  heart.  Much  remains  to  be  done.  But 
the  work  of  the  pioneer  can  never  be  fully  recorded  by  anyone.  Let  us  hope 
that  their  work  is  recorded  by  a  Higher  Powder,  and  that  their  reAvard  will 
be  great. 

The  above  notes  are  given  from  the  writer's  actual  experience  and  from 
correct  dates. 


3 


A     r.fSII     IKIMK 


Recollections   and   Experiences 


MR.  A.  GILLAN. 

During  tlie  period  between  1875  and  ISSO  a  very 
considerable  extension  of  settlement  and  occupation 
of  CroAvn  Lands  took  place  in  V^ictoria.  Many  of 
the  residents  m  the  district  between  Creswick  and 
Climes,  where  I  then  resided,  being  in  charge  of  the 
State  school  there,  went  northward  to  the  Goul- 
biirn  Valley  and  the  country  around  St.  Arnaud, 
where  they  took  up  land  and  settled  in  those 
parts. 

The  desire  to  obtain  some  land  took  ])Ossession  of 
the  vvriter.  but  he  never  for  a  moment  thought  of 
going  northward.  His  thoughts  were  turned  to  the 
south,  where  he  heard  of  land  being  open  for  se- 
lection near  Western  Port.  Duj-ing  the  Christmas 
holidays  of  1878  I  paid  m}^  first  visit  to  the  Poo- 
wong  district. 

At  Ballaral  East  a  man  came  into  the  sjuiu^  car- 
riage, who,  I  found,  by  conversation,  Avas  also  in 
quest  of  land,  and  on  his  way  to  the  PooAvong  dis- 
trict. His  name  A\as  Wm.  McGregor.  On  arrival  in  Melbourne.  Mr.  AYmi- 
McGregor  and  I  A'isited  the  Lands  Department,  inspected  some  maps,  and 
got  some  information  about  the  district,  where  selection  was  going  on  apace. 
On  the  following  day  my  companion  and  I  started  by  Cobb  and  Co.'s  coach 
from  the  Albion  Hotel,  in  Bourke-street.  to  Cranbourne,  having  been  joined  by 
one  Mr.  Lakeland,  also  from  Ballarat  East,  Avho  had  already  selected  in  the 
Pcyowong  district,  and  was  ju-oceeding  to  visit  his  selection  and  see  the 
work  done  on  it  by  his  nephew  who  was  cutting  the  scrub.  At  Cranbourne  the 
trio  procured  a  vehicle  and  driver  from  Mr.  Bethune,  a  storekeeper  there,  and 
were  driven  to  Tobin  Yallock.  Hej'e  we  were  left  to  our  OAvn  r&sources. 
After  refreshing  the  innei-  man  we  started  on  our  journey,  walking  until 
after  10  o'clock  in  a  clear.  ch)udh'ss  night,  then  made  tea,  gathered  some  ferns 
for  ou)-  beds,  stretched  oui-  tired  bodies  thereon,  and  were  soon  under  t.ho 
dominicm  of  "'Nature's  soft  nurse,"'  balmy  sleep. 

The  following  morning  saAv  us  early  astir  on  the  way  to  our  destination 
along  McDonald's  Track,  passing  Dunlo]:)*s  and  James  Scott's  places  before 
any  signs  of  life  were  evident.  The  character  of  the  country  was  now  very 
ditl'erent  to  that  passed  ovei',  slcirting  A\'esternport  and  the  intervening  pai-t. 
Great  giants  of  trees  met  the  gaze  along  the  track,  and  tall,  graceful  lia/el 
scrub  bounded  it  on  each  side.  Tn  a  \'alley  betxAcen  J.  Scott's  and  Poowong,  a 
Avaggonette  was  noticed  thrust  in  the  scrub,  Avhich  gave  sf)me  cxidciicc  of 
civilisation  in  this,  at  that  time,  remote  locality. 

PooAvong  had  then  only  one  house  erected,  and  the  first  ])erson  seen  there 
Avasthe  late  Mr.  Horsley,  senr.,  Avho  gave  us  directions  to  the  hut  orcuiued  by 
Mr.  Houlahan,  Avhom,  on  reaching  the  place.  Ave  fonnd  aflivdy  engaged  at 


1/JO  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

the  first  meal  of  the  day,  and  a  fine,  stalwart  young  man  without  coat  and 
vest  and  one  of  his  braces  danoling  behind,  came  out  and  accompanied 
us  a  short  distance,  showing  us  the  waj^  to  Mr.  Appleton"s  place,  our  des- 
tination. Mr.  Appleton.  with  Mr.  Fraser.  his  fatlier-in-law.  and  Miss  Fraser. 
daughter  of  the  latter,  had  three  blocks  together,  subsequently  forming 
part  of  the  estate  of  Mr.  R.  O.  Timms,  and  now  of  Me>sr>.  Osborne  Bros. 
The  ground  of  Mr.  Lakeland  preA'iously  mentioned  formed  also  part  of  the 
s'ame  estate,  having  been  sold  to  Mr.  Timms.  We  remained  here  and  else- 
wliere  for  a  couple  of  days  looking  around,  under  limited  conditions,  owing 
to  the  density  of  the  scrub,  along  survey  lines  bounding  the  selections  and 
other  coigns  of  vantage,  and.  at  last,  on  the  third  day  wt-  ]:»egged  out  our 
blocks. 

A  track  had  just  been  ojjened  from  Pocwong  Xorth  to  Drouin.  and  by 
this  we  journeyed  to  the  latter  place,  caught  the  contractor's  train  (the  Gipps- 
land  line  being  then  under  construction),  which  took  us  to  Bunyip.  from 
which  the  line  was  completed  to  Oakleigh  and  open  for  traffic. 

Mr.  ^McGregor  and  I  then  lodged  our  applications,  having  been  duly 
sworn  by  a  magistrate  that  we  had  not  previously  selected,  and  paid  the  usual 
dPee  of  £1.  A  survey  fee  of  £20  per  block  of  320  acres  was  soon  after  de- 
manded and  paid  by  the  applicants.  It  may  here  be  stated  that  Mr.  McGregor 
did  not  keep  his  block.  Having  changed  his  mind,  he  applied  for  a  reftmd 
of  his  survey  fee  and  obtained  it.  The  same  block  and  another  adjoining 
were  taken  up  by  Messrs.  J.  and  B.  Tribe,  from  Sotith  Mell)ourne.  and  now 
-owned  by  Mr.  R.  Gregg  and  Messrs.  Kidman  and  Beverly. 

In  1885  I  came  doAvn  to  reside  on  my  block,  having  carried  out  the 
necessary  improvements  in  the  shape  of  clearins:  the  scrub,  sowing  gras? 
seed,  fencing  and  building,  but  inasmuch  as  I  did  not  carry  out  the  residence 
•clause.  4^  years  rent  was  forfeited  b}'  me.  or,  in  other  words,  double  rent 
was  charged  for  4:^  years. 

The  encouragement  given  then  and  now  by  the  Lands  Department  and 
the  Closer  Settlement  Board,  a  creation  of  the  Government  since  those  days, 
to  settlers  taking  up  land  is  in  striking  contrast.  The  survey  fees  are  less, 
-and  there  is'  less  stringency  required  in  observing  the  residence  clatise:  iii 
fact  there  is  a  system  of  nursing  carried  on  by  the  Closer  Settlement  Board 
towards  the  settlers  on  irrigation  areas  in  the  north  of  the  State  which  was 
altogether  unknown  in  the  days  of  the  settlement  of  South  Gippsland. 

Considering  the  pluck  and  energy  of  the  early  pioneers  in  this  part 
tackling  a  country  covered  with  dense  forest,  and  the  fact  that  an  unproduc- 
tive province  has  been  converted  through  their  labours  into  one  highly  re- 
munerative to  the  GoA'crnment.  the  old  settlers  and  their  descendants  have 
ample  reason  of  complaint  that  such  rigid  adherence  was  required  by  bona 
fide  selectors  in  observing  all  the  regulations  of  selection,  and  at  the  neglect 
so  far  shown  by  the  powers  that  be  in  aiding  in  the  development  of  this  part 
of  the  State  from  the  advent  of  settlement  up  to  the  present  period. 

The  different  birds,  animals,  varied  scenery  and  density  of  the  scrub 
and  other  features  tliat  came  under  notice  made  me  think  T  had  ariived  in  a 
new  country  altogether,  which  was  true  in  a  sense  but  not  in  reality.  I  was 
delighted  A\ith  the  whole  scene,  and  although  conditions  have  very  much 
■changed — the  native  bear  is  now  seldom  seen,  the  coachwhip  bird,  the  bell 
l:)ii'd.  the  Ivre  bii'd  and  olher  h\v(h  ha\e  retired  as  the  scrub  was  cut  <lown — I 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  151 

iini  .-^till  deliofhieJ  a\  itli  the  aj)})e;iraiice  of  the  country  in  its  partly  denuded 
state,  still  pleased  with  the  character  and  potency  of  the  soil,  the  salubrity 
of  the  climate:  and  the  pioneer-  and  others  inhaljitinu  this  ])art.  for  encr.ii^ . 
abilit}'  and  intelligence,  will  compare  favourably  with  any  other  class  of 
citizens  in  the  State,  or  even  in  the  CommonAvealth. 

The  buildhio-  of  the  (irippsland  railway  line  and  settlement  in  the 
Poowong-  and  surrounding  districts  were  ahnost  contemporaneous,  and  Drouin 
being  due  north,  about  IS  miles  distant  on  the  line  named,  all  the  traffic  passed 
along  the  road  connecting  these  places'.  This  traffic  was  also  increased  by 
the  diversion  of  much  of  that  which  previously  came  by  the  Western  Port 
route.  The  Poowong  end  of  the  road  as  far  as  the  Royal  Hotel  or  Halfway 
House,  as  it  was  usually  named,  was  opened  up  by  the  residents  of  Poowong, 
Messrs.  (lardnci.  Horsley.  Burchett.  Murphy  and  McTavish  taking  a  promi- 
nent part.  When  the  line  from  Melbourne  to  Drouin  was  opened  in  1879  the 
mails,  which  had  hitherto  come  by  AVestern  Port,  now  came  to  Drouin,  and 
thence  per  coach  to  I'oowong.  r)wing  to  the  extensive  traffic  in  supplying 
stores  to  the  settlers,  building  materials  and  replenishing  the  local  stores  at 
Poowong.  Bena  and  McDonald's  Track,  this  road  in  the  Winter  season  became 
a  regular  (luagmire.  and  a  journey  along  it  per  coach  or  otherwise  was  often 
of  an  adventui-ous  character.  Often  the  coach,  carrying  passengers  and 
mails,  would  get  bogged,  when  the  f.ormer  would  have  to  get  out  and  Avalk 
some  distance  along  the  muddy  roads,  no  easy  task,  until  a  part  less  boggy 
would  be  reached,  when  the  coach  would  again  be  utilised  for  their  journey. 
Parties  carrying  goods,  etc.,  Avould  traAel  several  together  so  that  they  could 
assist  each  other  in  the  boggy  and  most  difficult  parts  of  the  road. 

The  Royal  Hotel  on  the  Lang  Lang  was  a  place  of  considerable  note  in 
the  early  days.  This  was  kept  by  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Clifton,  who  settled  there  on 
their  selection  in  1877,  and  were  noted  for  their  civility  and  aiicution  to  the 
public  on  this  road. 

Air  M  Gardner  and  Mr  Patrick  F.  Murphy  were  the  first  councillors 
elected  to  represent  the  Poowong  district  in  the  Buln  Buln  shire.  At  next 
election  Mr.  C.  Burchett.  Jas.  M.  Gannon  and  (leorge  Grant  were  elected. 

Beside.v  the  coach  carrying  the  mails  run  by  Mr.  Sutcliffe  of  Drouin.  Mr. 
Hodgkinson  of  McDonald's  Track  also  ran  a  passenger  coach  between  Poo- 
wong and  Drouin:  and  the  carriers  in  the  early  days  wei-e  Messrs.  R.  (jregg, 
Poowong.  G,  Pi'att.  of  North  Poowong,  and  .Mr.  . lames,  of  lUna.  Tlu'  ston-  car- 
ried on  in  tlie  district  wei-e  run  at  Poo\\()ng  l)y  Mr.  J.  Scott,  and  latiM-  by  Mr. 
J.  Salmon:  at  Gi-uickston  1»\-  .Mr.  R.  Mui-doch.  and  at  Str/.i>l('cl<i  bv  Mr. 
Adkins. 

The  first  woj-k  in  the  way  of  iinpi<i\  ing  the  selection  wa-  to  cut  down  the 
.-.crub.  consisting  of  hazel.  Mackwood.  wattle,  nuisk  and  some  oilier  varieties, 
also  at  same  time  to  ringbark  the  laige  trees,  in  order  to  Irill  them.  This  was 
usuallv  done  in  \\'inter  or  eaily  Spring,  and  tlu>  fallen  scrub  burned  towai'ds 
the  end  of  ihe  Snninici-.  llicn  what  was  left  was  idcked  up  in  heap-  and 
afterwai'ds  burned.  .\  mixtui'c  of  clover  and  gi-ass  seed  was  then  sown,  which, 
from  the  de|)osit  of  ashes  on  the  >ui-face  and  the  chaiacter  of  the  soih  grew 
luxuriantly,  producing  pastnrc  iiigldy  faxourable  for  Iho  fattening  of  stock 
or  for  dairying.  Owing  to  the  iiilly  character  of  the  country,  and  the  distance 
from  markets  for  the  disposal  of  ])roduce,  together  with  the  absence  of 
roads,  cidtivation  was  confined  to  what  was  ref|uii-''d  l"oi-  consumption  on  the 
farm,  so  that  srazincr  and  daiiving  were  almost  the  only  sources  from  which 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  153 

an  income  could  l)e  derived.  This  brings  the  dairying  industry  of  the  Poo- 
wong  district  under  review,  and  as  this  is  the  saibject  of  another  paper,  no 
further  comments  need  be  made  respecting  it. 

Owing  to  the  absence  of  roads  in  the  early  days,  a  considerable  amount 
of  traftic  was  carried  on  by  packing.  Xarrow  tracks  connecting  different 
places  were  cut  through  the  scrub,  and  along  these  boxes  of  butter,  eggs,  crates 
of  foAvls  and  porkers,  not  to  speak  of  children,  who  were  also  occasionally 
cai-ried  in  this  fashion,  would  be  transported  along  these  by  faithful  horses, 
plodding  along  through  mud  and  slush  and  ascending  and  descending  tracks 
that  assumed  the  aspect  of  stairs,  each  step  in  Winter  being  marked  by  a 
muddy  pool.  A  gentleman  not  far  from  Poowong  was  telling  the  writer 
that  he  met  a  pack-horse  winding  its  v,'ay  through  his  selection  driven  by  a 
young  man.  Avho  a  number  of  years  afterwards  became  one  of  the  Councillors 
of  the  Poowong  and  Jeetho  Shire.  The  pack  Avas  laden  with  a  pair  of  turkeys 
on  one  side  and  a  little  girl  on  the  other.  The  turkeys  were  sold  in  Melbourne, 
and  the  little  girl  in  course  of  time  became  the  young  man's  wife. 

In  conchision.  a  few  notes  may  be  made  about  the  present  appearance  of 
this  district  in  its  partialh'  cleared  condition.  In  looking  around,  the  horizon 
bounding  the  view  presents  a  jagged  outline  of  trees,  some  green  and  full  of 
vitality,  whilst  others  stand  out  prominently  with  gaunt  and  bare  branches 
bereft  of  their  foliage,  and  appealing  as  it  w^ere  to  heaven  against  their 
destruction  by  the  liand  of  man.  The  country  at  large  is  more  or  less  covered 
by  these  silent  witnesses,  intermingled  with  live  trees  here  and  there,  and 
often  by  patches  of  green  timber  Avhich  have  been  left  untouched  in  the 
progi'ess  of  clearing,  or  left  purposely  as  a  shelter  for  stock,  or  a  source  of 
supply  for  future  requirements  on  the  farm.  This  is  very  important,  as  there 
is  no  doubt  as  time  passes  and  tiinber  becomes  scarce,  a  patch  of  grteen 
timber  on  the  farm  will  ])e  regarded  as  a  valuable  possession.  Many  are  now 
regretting  their  neglect  in  this  respect,  that  such  foresight  was  overlooked 
when  clearing  their  selections.  The  traveller,  in  passing  through  the  district, 
will  notice  some  paddocks  with  large  patches  of  bracken  fern  growing  thereon, 
others  dotted  with  bunches  of  swordgrass.  The  ferns  are  useless  as  feed  for 
stock,  but  the  ^wordgrass  will  be  eaten  by  stock,  especially  in  Winter,  and  if 
young  will  be  much  relished  by  cattle  and  horses.  Cultivation  is  the  most 
effectual  method  of  clearing  the  ground  of  these  growths.  He  will  al.^o 
notice,  say  in  December  or  January,  promising  crops  of  oats,  maize  and 
potatoes,  also  paddocks  of  onions,  and  patches  of  peas,  mangels  and  pumpkins; 
and  outside  these  aieas  fine  paddocks  of  grass  and  clover,  on  which  numerous 
herds  of  cows  with  well  stocked  udders  arc  ^raziiii;.  Morses,  too.  sku'k  and  in 
good  condition,  are  also  to  be  seen,  with  occjisioual  llocks  of  shcej)  and  lambs, 
all  giving  evidence  of  a  fertile  district  aud  of  an  energetic  and  prosperous  com- 
munity. To  these  evidences  may  be  added  the  comfortable  and  well-appointed 
honic-leads  tluit  meet  tlu-  eye  of  the  traveller  in  all  directions,  and  should  be 
attend  a  market  in  one  of  the  leading  townships,  aflditional  evidence  of  pros- 
perity will  be  afl'ord(M|  in  the  style  and  character  of  the  horses  and  vehicles, 
driven  by  well-dressed  faiiner-s  and  their  wives,  or  members  of  their  families 
from  the  suri'oiniding  country.  The  views  of  the  country  from  hills  and 
ridges  ai-e  striU'ing  and  beautiful,  and  when  seen  in  the  morning,  when  the 
sun  is  making  his  appearance,  or  in  the  evening  near  simset,  is  still  moi*e 
pleasing  and  delightful.  At  such  times  the  shadows  cast  by  the  hills  and 
mountains  when  the  sun  is  rising,  or  taking  his  departure  with  an  admixture 
of  sunshine  striking  hills  and  prominent  places  here  and  there,  also  the  halo 


154 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


of  glory  siincuiulina'  the  retiriiiir  orb  of  day,  especially  should  the  sky  be 
llet'kod  \vith  li.iilit  cUmds  in  tho  \vr>i.  produce  a  picture  of  nature  Ijefore  the 
spectator  hard  to  surpass. 

The  roads  in  the  district  wind  along  creeks  or  follow  ridges  and  often 
across  valleys  and  over  hills,  making  them,  as  a  rule,  expensive  to  make  and 
maintain.  This  is  rendered  more  so  owing  to  the  absence  of  suitable  road 
metal.  The  sandstone  under  the  surface  soil  is  unsuitable  for  this  purpose,  as  in 
a  short  time  from  exposure  to  the  atmosphere  it  crumbles',  and  if  used  on  a 
road  is  reduced  to  powder  oi-  mud,  according  to  the  weather,  making  the  road 
muddy  and  boggy  should  traflic  be  considerable.  It  must  be  remarked  that  as 
time  passes  and  the  judicious  expenditure  of  the  rates  available  by  the  Shire 
Councils  of  South  Gippsland.  the  roads  are  gradually  improving,  and  now 
that  special  attention  is  being  given  to  the  formation  of  main  roads  connect- 
ing the  principal  townships  by  the  Country  Eoads  Board,  a  further  improve- 
ment may  be  early  expected,  (xood  roads',  by  affording  easier  facilities  for 
the  transport  of  produce  to  the  railway  stations,  will  cause  an  increased  area 
to  be  put  under  cultivation,  aiul  thus  lienefit  the  entire  district. 


A     M;\\r.V   KKM.K'P     I'lUOi:.    "FEKN    (JKOVE,"    MIKT.mo    sol    TH. 
8ft.   in   diameter   ;it   cut  14ft.   from    ground. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MRS.  R   J.  FULLER. 


In  1876  Captain  Fuller,  my  father-in-law.  my 
husband  and  his  sisters  selected  land  in  the  neigh- 
l)()inhood  of  Messrs.  Horner  and  McCabe,  bnt  threw 
I'lKit  up  and  afterwards  selected  in  the  present  site 
(near  Bena).  In  January.  1878.  Mr.  Fuller  severed 
his  connection  with  the  shipping  firm  to  start  for 
the  land  to  build  the  house  for  us.  which  was  a 
matter  of  some  consideration,  as  Captain  Fuller  and 
my  husband  thought  it  would  be  too  rough  for  my 
si>teis-in-law.  the  children  and  myself.  So  •!'>  acres 
wore  taken  up  on  the  Bass,  where  Sunnyside  now 
is.  as  there  was  a  dray  track  to  there,  and  we  could 
take  some  furniture:  for  we  coidd  take  iiuthiiiu  Init 
wliat  could  be  taken  on  a  pack-horse  to  the  larger 
place.  I  thought,  "only  five  miles:  they  can  ride 
there  and  back  every  day,"  to  which,  when  I  men- 
tioned it.  they  replied  "they  would  only  be  back 
once  a  week."  That  decided  it.  I  said.  "Then  I  am 
going  to  the  big  place."  A  four-roomed  house  was 
commenced,  Init  took  longer  to  build  than  Avas  expected;  it  Avas  not  complete 
when  v>'e  arrived.  Towards  the  end  of  March  Mr.  Fuller  came  down  with 
a  covered  American  waggon  and  one  horse.  Mother  was  troubled  that  the 
rain  might  come  through  the  cover,  so  we  got  American  leather  for  the  cover. 
We  sent  all  luggage  possible  by  boat,  much  against  my  will:  for  I  thought 
if  I  could  stack  the  waggon  like  a  furuituiv  van  the  horse  could  pull  it.  So 
the  first  week  in  April  we  started  from  Eichmond  with  a  crate  of  fowls  and 
ducks  tied  to  the  axle,  provisions  for  the  journey,  clothes.  ])edding  and  five 
children,  the  eldest  six  and  a  half  years,  and  the  youngest  foui-  months  old. 
We  reached  Tooraclin  Hotel  late  at  night,  thoroughly  tired.  Next  morning 
no  sign  of  breakfast,  so  started  off,  as  we  expected  to  arrive  at  the  hut  at 
Sunnyside  that  night.  We  had  breakfast  by  the  wayside,  dinner  also.  Late 
in  the  afterno<m  the  horse  came  to  a  standstill  and  refused  to  move,  in  a 
swain])y  jdace.  the  second  night  out  from  town.  Xow  the  Amei-ican  leather 
came  in  liandy.  We  took  the  cover  oil'  the  trap  to  act  as  a  tent,  spread  the 
American  leather  on  the  ground,  and  made  u])  the  l)ed  for  the  night.  There 
was  difficulty  in  finding  water  for  the  horse  and  our  tea.  Then  we  tried  to 
settle  for  the  night,  and  what  a  night  it  was!  The  dingoes  came  ho^wling 
round,  and  T  was'  afraid  they  might  try  for  one  of  the  children.  Next  morn- 
ing, up  with  the  first  peep  of  day.  breakfast,  then  to  uidoad  everything  by 
the  roadside:  (he  horse  then  pulled  the  <'nipty  trap  out.  Then  we  went  on 
with  the  children  and  bedding  oidy.  leavinff  the  crate  of  fowls  and  ducks  and 
other  things  packed  up  on  the  roadside  for  Mr.  Smith  to  bring  to  his  place 
afterAvards.  We  arrived  at  the  hut  at  Sunnyside  for  dinnei-.  On  again; 
when  toAvards  CA'ening  we  reached  Mr.  A.  R.  Smith's  home  near  what  is  noAV 
Loch,  where  ho  and  Mrs.  Smith  made  us  A-erv  welcome  for  the  night. 


156 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


AN     EAULY     HdMESTEAD. 


At  daylight  next  morning  iSIr.  Fuller  started  for  the  horses,  and  finally 
we  commneced  the  last  stage  of  the  journey  with  a  boy  and  girl  in  new  sacks 
turned  half  way  down  and  hooked  on.  one  each  side  of  the  ]3ack-saddle ;  one 
child  being  put  in  each  sack,  and  they  travelled  splendidly,  much  better  than 
I  have  seen  children  travel  in  boxes. 

Being  Sunday,  we  had  several  to  help:  Captain  Fuller  took  one  child 
on  the  horse  in  front  of  him,  a  neighbour  took  the  other  on  his  back  for  part 
of  the  way.  as  it  was  about  a  five-mile  walk  over  hill  and  valley,  and  we 
arrived  safely,  although  too  tired  to  remember  how  we  got  them  all  fixed  for 
the  night. 

So  we  started  our  second  home,  the  first  with  all  the  little  labour-saving 
devices  that  a  handy  husband  could  make:  the  second  with  all  these  to  come. 
For  furniture,  we  had  a  cradle,  sewing  machine  taken  to  pieces  and  packed 
in  the  cradle,  and  a  rocking  chair,  also  taken  to  pieces:  all  the  rest  had  to  be 
made  on  the  premises,  as  we  did  not  get  anything  but  what  came  on  a  pack- 
horse  for  six  years. 

[Being  used  only  to  town  life.  I  had  everything  to  learn  and  no  neigh- 
bours near  enough  to  get  anj^  knowledge  from.  My  first  recipe  for  bread- 
making  Avas:  Put  some  yeast  (which  was  kept  in  a  tin  not  tied  down)  in  the 
flour,  and  some  Avarm  water,  and  let  it  rise  all  night :  in  the  morning  put  some 
more  warm  water  to  it  and  make  it  stiff:  when  it  is  risen  enouirh  vou  bake  it. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  157 

Needless  to  say,  there  were  main'  failures,  and  the  bread-making  was  a  thing 
I  never  liked,  although  for  many  years  I  never  used  less  than  a  ton  and  a 
quarter  of  Hour,  and  one  year  two  tons. 

Then  dairying,  of  which  I  knew  nothing,  had  to  be  learned.  The  first 
churn  was  a  Tib.  square  coffee  tin,  in  which  the  cream  was  shaken  until  the 
butter  came;  "then  wash  and  salt  it/"  were  the  directions  1  received:  and  L 
expected  to  find,  when  I  turned  it  on  a  plate,  that  it  would  look  like  a  lump 
of  good  butter,  and  was  disgusted  to  find,  after  trying  with  a  knife  to  pat 
it  into  shape,  that  I  only  made  it  look  worse,  but  was  very  glad  to  have  that 
and  the  milk  for  the  children.  Captain  Fuller  had  got  a  good  vegetable 
garden  wdien  we  came. 

At  this  time  no  one  along  the  South  Track  had  any  grass,  and  there  was 
no  woman  further  out.  The  next  to  arrive  was  Mrs.  C.  Blew,  but  I  did  not 
meet  her  till  several  years  after. 

The  3'ear  before  we  came  u])  Mr.  Fuller  had  sent  some  fruit  trees,  and 
their  experience  was  varied  on  the  journey.  They  started  by  coach  fi^om 
the  Albion  Hotel  in  Bourke-street,  Melbourne,  to  Grantville,  then  by  bullock 
•team  and  horse  dray  to  ^Ir.  A.  R.  Smith's,  finishing  by  pack-hoi\se.  Two 
years  after  our  arrival  they  were  removed  to  another  site,  and  very  pleasant 
and  useful  we  found  the  fruit  when  they  came  into  bearing. 

As  soon  as  we  were,  in  a  measure,  settled  in  the  house,  the  men  had  to 
start  building  again — another  four-roomed  house  attached  to  the  one  we 
w-ere  occupying.  Before  the  second  one  was  finished  Captain  Fuller  went  to 
town  for  his  daughters.  Mr.  Fuller  was  to  meet  them  with  horses  at  Mr.  A.  ' 
R.  Smith's,  but  owing  to  the  uncertainty  of  the  mail  arrangementv*  they 
walked  up  and  surprised  us.  It  Avas  a  great  change  for  the  girls  to  come  to 
the  quiet  of  the  country. 

In  the  Spring  there  were  a  number  of  heifers  coming  in,  so  we  had  to 
begin  milking:  we  had  ah-eady  gained  some  knoAvledge  of  butter-making. 

Our  Aveekly  papers  had  been  anxiously  looked  for,  to  pick  uj)  any  hints 
on  dairying,  but,  as  there  was  not  much  interest  taken  in  dairying  then,  there 
w'as  very  little  correspondence  on  the  subject.  Our  first  trouble  was  getting 
the  "Cheiry"  churn  in;  it  could  not  be  taken  to  pieces  for  packing,  so  Mi*. 
Fuller  had  to  carry  it  on  his  bade  foi-  some  miles. 

The  leading  pi'i(;e  for  butter  thai  Spring  was  -t.ld.  a  pouiul,  so  we  de- 
cided to  ])ack  ours  in  kerosene  tins  and  solder  it  down  and  keep  it  till  the 
Autumn;  after  all  the  expenses  we  only  got  Od.  a  ])ound  retui-n.  A  few  years 
aftei'.  for  potted  Initter,  salted  and  kept  till  the  Autumn,  we  got  1/2  per  lb. 
Since  then  we  liaxc  milked  as  many  as  110  co\\s  iti  a  season. 

^Vhen  Mi.  Fullei's  mother  and  mv  mother  were  sending  our  goods  (and 
they  sent  a  great  number  of  things)  tl.'ev  purchased  and  cleaned  kerosene  tins 
and  cases  to  pa(;k  them  in.  so  we  had  a  good  sui)ply:  they  were  also  easy  to 
handle  in  packing  both  in  and  out. 

In  the  early  Spring  of  ls70  we  decided  that  T  should  go  to  town;  we 
were  to  st'ui  dii'ecth-  alter  dinnrr  .md  stay  the  night  at  Mi's.  Ilorsley's,  but 
the  horses  thought  dill'erently.  I'or  from  early  in  the  morning  till  nearly 
three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  they  dodged  about  the  so-called  clearing,  190 
acres  without   a   fence,  i-ouiul  one  rough  patch,  then   round  another,  gallo|)ing 


IDS  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

past  the  house  to  the  other  end  till  they  had  had  enough,  when  they  stood.  It 
was  then  late  in  the  afternoon,  towards  the  end  of  September,  and  nearly  dark 
when  we  reached  Mr.  E.  C.  Holmes's  clearing — not  half  way.  Miss  Kitty 
Holmes  (afterwards  Mrs.  W.  Salmon)  kindly  invited  us  to  stay  the  nighty 
and  made  us  very  welcome  and  comfortable.  We  started  next  morning,  rode 
to  Poowong.  then  coach  to  Urouin.  then  train  from  there  to  town,  and  finally 
reached  mother's  at  10.30  at  night.  We  now  make  the  journey  to  town  in 
less  than  four  iiours. 

I  returned  in  Novemljer  with  a  six  Aveeks'  old  hahj.  Mr.  Fuller  met  me 
at  Poowong  the  morning  after  I  arrived,  with  a  quiet  horse  and  side  saddle, 
also  a  pack-horse.  After  adjusting  his  pack  he  put  me  up  with  the  baby  on 
my  knee,  and  we  started  on  the  final  five-mile  stage  of  the  journey,  he  lead- 
ing the  pack-horse,  my  horse  following,  as  he  was  used  to  when  they  were 
packing.  The  greater  part  of  the  way  was  just  through  a  narrow  bridle 
track  only  wide  enough  for  packing.  If  the  horse  did  not  keep  in  the  middle 
of  the  track  I  should  have  been  knocked  off  by  the  trees  on  one  side  or  the 
other.  All  went  well  till  we  got  to  a  steep  hill  in  Mr.  Hoskin's.  where  Mr. 
Fuller  stopped  to  adjust  his  pack,  which,  amongst  other  things,  was  topped  up 
with  half-a-dozen  milk  dishes,  which  Avere  inclined  to  slip  off;  and  the  horse 
he  was  using  liked  to  take  a  bad  piece  of  road  at  a  run.  He  said  to  me  "Go 
on."  which  I  was  glad  to  do;  after  reaching  the  bottom.  I  wanted  to  wait, 
but  "Tom"  was  on  the  homeward  track,  and  reckoned  he  was  in  charge,  so 
we  dodged  on;  there  were  no  fences  to  stop  at.  so  he  kept  going  till  he 
brought  me  to  the  back  gate.  Avhere  there  were  plenty  of  willing  hands  to 
help  us  off. 

Mother  was  anxious  to  come  up  to  see  us  all,  for.  as  she  said,  "if  she  did 
not  come  up  she  would  see  nothing  of  us."  It  Avas  arranged  for  her  to  come 
up  in  February,  and  it  Avas  an  annual  trip,  even  after  the  raihvay  Avas 
through,  as  long  as  she  Avas  Avell  enough  to  take  the  journey.  Mr.  Fuller  met 
her  at  PooAvong  with  the  side-saddle  and  the  pack-horse,  AA'hich  Avas  much 
needed,  for  she  always  lamented  that  she  '"could  bring  tiie  children  so  little." 
This  Avas  her  first  time  on  iiorseback:  she  Avas  very  tired  and  stiff'  when  she 
arrived.  As  they  came  along  she  asked  Avhen  they  Avould  reach  a  clearing. 
Mr.  Fuller  said,  "We  hare  passed  through  some."  When  they  reached  the 
next  he  told  her:  she  only  said,  "Oh.  is  that  a  clearing?"  She  may  haA-e  ex- 
pected it  to  be  like  an  English  meadoAV,  as  Ave  Avere  sowing  P^ngiish  grasses. 
Mother  used  to  go  for  a  ride  occasionally,  when  Ave  Avould  shoAv  her  the  im- 
proA-ements  made  since  her  last  Adsit.  but  she  would  only  say.  "You  are  spoil- 
ing all  your  pretty  roads."  I  haA'e  always'  been  sorry  she  Avas  not  Avell  enough 
to  come  up  when  we  were  able  to  driA'e.  for  she  ahvays  enjoyed  going  about. 
She  used  to  stay  a  fortnight,  and  the  first  time  she  was  up  she  asked  me  to 
send  her  some  calico  and  she  Avould  make  it  up  for  the  children  during  Win- 
ter, as  she  was  obliged  to  stay  in  the  house  most  of  the  AVinter;  and  she 
made  all  .the  underclothing  till  they  Avere  able  to  do  so  tliemselves:  this  Avas  a 
great  boon  to  me,  as  only  mothers  of  large  families  knoAv,  as  that  AAas  not  the 
time  of  "ready-mades." 

After  Mr.  Fuller's  sisters  left  I  did  feel  the  Avant  of  a  Avoman's  society 
so  much ;  the  men  could  get  about  better  than  tlie  Avomen — they  had  not  the 
children  to  think  of.  While  Mr.  Fuller's  sisters  Avere  Avith  us  they  gave  the 
eldest  children  a  little  schooling,  for  as  they  Avere  groAving  up  their  education 
became  a  cause  of  anxiety.  Their  father  used  to  set  them  copies  and  sums 
at    night,    ready  for  them  to  do  next  day.    but  it  was  trying  for  him  after 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  159 

working  hard  all  day.  not  an  eight  hours'  day  either,  often  tAvelve  or  four- 
teen, or  from  daylight  to  dark;  but  we  did  our  best.  In  the  daytime  it  was 
difficult  to  keep  the  children  at  their  lessons  and  attend  to  my  other  duties. 
I  tried  taking  one  of  them  to  read  when  I  was  in  the  dairy  skimming,  but  it 
was  not  a  great  success.  The  three  elder  ones  went  to  town  to  attend  school 
at  diilerent  times,  but  they  did  not  settle  very  well,  leaving  a  large  family 
and  the  freedom  of  the  country.  Then  going  to  live  with  the  old  folks  was 
too  quiet — they  were  always  looking  forward  to  coming  home. 

/When  Mr.  J.  (x.  Wilson's  eldest  daughter  returned  from  hnishing  her 
education  she  took  her  three  sisters  and  our  three  eldest  to  teach.  AVe  had 
been  agitating  for  a  school  for  a  long  time.  After  Mr.  Fuller  had  interviewed 
one  and  another,  we  were  at  last  promised  that  if  a  site  suitable  for  thp 
diilerent  families  was  secured,  one  would  be  built.  ISlr.  J.  (1.  Wilson  then 
gave  an  acre  of  land;  the  Jeetho  school.  No.  2600,  was  there  erected  and 
opened  early  in  1885,  and  originalh^  intended  to  acconmiodate  the  families  of 
Messrs.  Canobio,  J.  G.  Wilson,  N.  Bennett,  E.  J.  W^ilson  and  our  family  of 
eight,  who  for  some  time  were  attending  the  school  together.  ]Mr.  K.  J.  Wilson 
was  appointed  teacher. 

During  the  month  of  February  we  made  up  the  order  for  the  year''s 
supply  of  all  we  expected  lo  require,  as  the  tracks  were  so  bad  for  packing 
until  after  Christmas:  all  carting  was  done  by  bullock-teams  as  far  as  the 
road  was  open.  It  was  difficult  to  decide  what  stores  would  be  needed,  as  it 
partly  depended  on  what  labour  we  should  employ  in  the  coming  year. 
Boots  were  no  small  consideration,  as  growing  feet  and  chilblains  had  to  be 
provided  for;  our  usual  yearly  order  was  23  pairs. 

In  early  years  Dr.  Elmes  visited  Poowong  to  vaccinate  the  children, 
and  as  they  increased  southward,  the  day  after  vaccinating  at  Poowong  he 
came  to  our  home  to  do  the  children  that  were  waiting  there.  It  was  easier 
for  him  to  come  than  to  take  all  the  babies  to  Poowong.  Although  he  said, 
''A\^e  ought  to  be  much  obliged  to  him  for  coming,"  we  told  hiui.  *Tf  the 
Government  wanted  the  chihb-en  vaccinated  they  could  send  someone  to  do 
it;  Poowong  was  too  far  to  take  babies."'  As  it  was,  one  father  rode  from 
Leongatha  carrying  his  baby  in  front  of  him,  13  miles;  surely  that  was 
enough.  There  was  c<uit('  a  meeting  of  jnolliei's  aiu!  fathers  on  thes'e  occa- 
sions. 

In  1891  tlic  railway  was  opened.  Tiic  ])i()n(H'riiig  to  my  thinking  was 
then  finished.  Diirinif  the  time  tiiere  had  been  plenty  of  Jiard  work  and 
great  anxiety.  Init    I   have  never  regretted  leaving  the  city. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 


/ 


mocks     of 
Bass     River     at     .Snnnyside,     and 
Smith,   one  of  the  earliest   pioneers 


After  occupyino-  the  position  of  Town  Clerk  of 
Laurence,  the  scene  of  the  once  famous  gold  rush 
in  the  south  of  New  Zealand,  for  some  13  years,  my 
father,  who  had  always  been  interested  in  farm  life, 
decided  to  come  to  Victoria  and  try  his  fortune  in 
the  Gippsland  bush,  of  which  he  had  heard  from  his 
brother,  Edward  Carter  Holmes,  who  had  the  pre- 
vious year  (1876)  selected  land  near  Poowong,  and 
who  spoke  of  the  tremendous  forest  country  and 
wonderfully  rich  soil  that  was  available  for  selection. 
Aly  father  travelled  to  Victoria  by  the  steamship 
''Arawata,"  after  which  his  property  and  the  district 
of  AraAvata  were  named,  and  landed  in  Melbourne 
on  September  1st,  1877.  He  took  coach  at  the  Albion 
Hotel,  Melbourne,  on  October  6th,  at  8.15  a.m.,  for 
Tobin  Yallock.  reaching  there  late  in  the  eveningy 
the  fare  being  11/6.  He  stopped  the  night 
at  Flintoft's  Hotel,  and  walked  the  next  day 
over  the  Cherrytree  rise  and  the  sand  hum- 
Tinpot  Hill,  and  then  crossed  the 
stayed  the  night  with  Mr.  A.  R. 
of  the  Loch  and  Teetho  district.  The 
next  day  he  walked  to  his  brother's  place,  about  four  miles  or  less,  which 
took  just  four  hours,  and  in  his  diary  describes  it  as  "a  fearful  journey." 
Four  days  later  he  w^as  engaged,  with  his  brother  and  nephew,  in  cutting  a 
pack  track  over  the  same  route  by  which  he  had  come,  by  W.  V.  Hill's,  T. 
Fordyce's,  and  Miss  Leys'  land  to  Mr.  A.  R.  Smith's.  On  December  3rd  he 
walked  to  Scott's  Hotel  and  store  on  McDonald's  Track  for  the  mail,  but  had 
to  go  on  to  George  Baker's,  near  Nyora,  to  get  the  letters,  and  on  his  way 
back  Avalked  round  the  block  opposite  Scott's  Hotel,  and  aitixed  to  the  four 
corner  pegs  the  following  notice,  as  copied  from  his  diary: — 

"Xotice. — I,  the  undersigned,  hereby  give  notice  that  I  am  an  appli- 
cant for  this  allotment,  containing  160  acres  or  thereal)outs,  by  virtue  of 
the  19ih  section  of  the  I'eg-ulations  under  the  Land  Act  LSI)!).  .Jeetho, 
December  ord.  1877.     Laurence  C.  Holmes.    Witness,  E.  C.  Holmes'." 

Ha\ing  forwaided  his  application  and  survey  fee,  and  relying  on  his  priority 
of  application  to  .secure  him  the  land,  he  began  scrubcutting  on  the  land  near 
the  Bass  River.  The  land  was  surveyed  by  Mr.  Burbank,  and  my  father 
attended  a  Land  Board  in  Melbourne,  but  the  land  was  granted  to  Mr.  Poole, 
of  Tooradin.  and  thus  the  fii'st  att<'m]it  at  land  settlement  was  a  disapjioint- 
ment. 

By  this  time  the  family  was  on  the  way  from  Xew  Zealand,  and  pro- 
vision had  to  l)e  made  for  some  sort  of  a  home,  so  my  father  a]:)])lied  for  and 
got  a  garden  license  for  li\e  acres'  on  the  water  reserve  along  the  Bass,  ad- 
joining the  land  he  liad  i)revi()usly  applied  for.  and  cut  about  an  acre  of  s'crub. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  Itil 

and  started  to  build  a  log  Jiiit.  but  had  only  got  a  start  Avhen  our  arrival  in 
Melbourne  st(*])ped  building  operations,  and  means  of  transport  for  family 
and  outtir  became  the  pressing  duty.  So  a  horse  was  borrowed  from  Mr. 
Wallace  Dunloj^  and  a  spring  cart  from  Mr.  K.  G.  Scott,  and  a  journey  made 
to  the  city,  and  on  Ma}-  11th.  1878.  the  whole  family — father,  mother  and  six 
children — left  Melbourne  for  the  Gippsland  bush.  The  Springvale  Hotel 
was  reached  the  first  night,  Tooradin  the  next,  and  then  the  Cherrytree  rises. 
The  sand  hummocks  at  Tinpot  Hill  proved  too  much  for  the  horse,  and  half 
the  load  had  to  be  jettisoned,  necessitating  a  return  journey  from  the  top  of 
the  hill.  I  was  commissioned  to  go  to  Justin's  selection,  about  a  mile  ahead, 
and  try  and  borrow  another  horse.  On  the  way  I  made  my  first  acquaintance 
with  a  monkey  bear.  The  animal  had  climbed  up  a  small  stunted  gum.  and, 
wisliing  to  study  it  more  closely,  I  pi-odded  it  with  a  stick,  an  experiment 
which  I  have  never  repeated,  as  the  amalgamated  aroma  of  eucalyptus  and 
monkey  bear  that  I  carried  about  with  me  for  days  afierwards,  quite  curel 
my  curiosity.  We  eventually  arrived  safely  at  Scott's  late  in  the  afternoon, 
and  were  entei'tained  by  Mrs.  James  Scott  in  her  genial  and  hospitable  man- 
ner. Our  future  home  lay  just  a  mile  south  of  McDonald's  Track,  with  a 
pack  track  as  the  only  means  of  comnmnication,  so  we  had  to  unload  the 
cart  and  carry  the  most  necessary  requirements  for  the  first  night's  lodging. 
A  temporary  calico  roof  Avas  rigged  up,  and  Ave  made  a  second  trip  to  the 
depot  on  McDonald's  Irack.  I  can  still  remember  how  frightened  the  new 
arrivals  Avere  at  the  incessant  thud  and  crashing  through  the  undergrowth 
of  the  frightened  Avallabies,  how  strange  the  opossums,  squirrels,  screech- 
owls,  tiger  cats  and  other  animal  life  seemed:  our  Avhole  surroundings,  in 
fact,  Avere  entirely  strange  lo  us,  only  about  an  acre  of  open  ground,  walled 
in  by  bush  hundreds  of  feet  high,  and  no  sign  of  house  or  civilisation,  but 
the  Aery  noA  elty  was  a  charm,  rough  and  uninviting  as  it  Avas  in  other  re- 
spects. And  thus  Ave  started  in  the  Gip])sland  forest  with  five  acres  of  garden 
license,  all  bush  except  half  an  acre  of  l)urnt  scrub,  no  stock,  very  little  money, 
and  no  bush  experience.  A  small  jDlot  of  turnips  about  a  chain  square  Avas 
our  standby  for  the  Winter;  fortunately  Ave  had  a  few  months'  supply  of 
provisions.  Having  neither  grass  nor  coavs,  Ave  AA'ere  glad  to  get  what  milk 
oui"  neighboiii's  couhl  spare,  and  by  degrees  a  l)nsh  liomo  was  erected  and  a 
garden  ('.stal)lislu'd. 

As  laml  was  selected  and  the  nuinbt'i'  of  families  resident  in  the  district 
increased,  a  public  meeting  was  held  with  a  view  to  having  a  building  erected 
lor  ^clior. I  ami  church  purposes  on  the  towiisliip  reserve.  Messrs.  Mark  Gardner, 
Caleb  Burchett,  Scott.  Horsley,  Cook  and  Holmes  took  an  active  part. 
Aftei'  the  usual  ai)plication  to  the  Education  De])artment  a  site  Avas  obtained 
in  the  standing  liusii.  Thi^  was  cleared,  and  tlie  contract  for  the  building 
let  to  my  fatiiei-,  who.  though  Jiot  a  {radcsnian,  liad  souie  experience  in 
building,  liie  timl'er  foi-  framework  and  the  weathei'boards  were  sawn  by 
pitswayeis  out  of  a  bluegum  neai  at  hand.  T!ie  doors,  windows,  i-ooHng  iron, 
etc..  were  brought  by  steamer  to  A\'^es(eru|)oi't.  and  by  dray  to  Poowong.  It 
Avas  cm  this  building,  the  first  to  l)e  buih  witli  public  money  in  this  part  of 
Gip])slan(l,  that  I  served  my  apprenticeshij)  as  a  boy  of  10  years  to  bush  car- 
pentry, and  1  still  have  a  vivid  recollection  of  the  adverse  criticism  that 
foiloAved  my  initial  attempt  at  n)oi"tising  and  tenoning.  That  the  committee 
had  not  had  a  wide  expeiience  in  Austi-alian  hai'dwoods  was  pi-oved  Avithin  a 
few  months  of  the  coni|ili'ti<»ti  of  the  (■(nitract  by  ihc  i^aps  wbicli  .~b(»wed 
between  the  weatherboard-  as  lb(  y  -blank,  as  a  lap  (if  oidy  •"•  i  inch  liad  l)een 
specified.     The  buihling  i-  -till   -lnndihg  n^-   pail    of  the  Methodist    Church. 


16J  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

One  tiuubie  we  experienced  while  building  it  was  want  of  water  to  drink. 
^IcDonakV.s  Tnick  followed  the  ridge  constituting  the  watershed  of  the  Lang 
Lang,  Bass  and  Tarwin  rivers,  and  crossed  no  watercourses  in  a  distance  of 
1-2  or  15  niiles.  Often  we  had  to  dip  water  out  of  ruts  on  the  track,  and  the 
flavour  of  monkey  bear  and  gtim  leaves  in  the  billy  tea  still  remains  with  me 
as  one  of  the  recollections  associated  with  that  pioneer  buikling.  It  was 
opened  for  church  services  on  November  3rd.  1S78,  by  the  Rev.  Symonds 
("W'esleyan)  and  as  a  school  on  Deceml:)er  2nd,  I  NTS.  by  Mr.  Chas.  Cook,  who 
taught  in  it  until  the  department  Imilt  a  new  school. 

The  first  cattle  sale  was  held  by  the  firm  of  Stratford  Strettle  at  Mr. 
AVallace  Dunlop's  yards  on  October  yth.  1878.  which  1  attended.  Sales  were 
afterwards  held  at  Scott's  yards  until  the  municipal  j'ards  were  established. 

In  the  Winter  of  1879  ni}'  father  made  a  private  contract  with  the  settlers 
between  ilcDonald's  Track  and  Jumbimna  to  deliver  mails  along  the  South 
pack  track,  and  the  writer,  then  11  years  old,  delivered  them  on  foot.  This 
mail  service,  unofficial  as  it  was,  was  the  first  exclusively  within  the  district, 
and  constitutes  the  writer's  first  claim  as  a  pioneer.  At  the  time  there  was 
onh'  one  mail  Aveekly  to  Poowong.  It  came  from  Tobin  Yallock,  first  by 
pack-horse,  and  later  by  vehicle.  During  the  Summer  months  its  arrival  was 
fairly  consistent,  but  during  Winter  and  early  Spring  was  most  erratic,  as 
breakdowjis  were  of  frequent  occurrence.  Mr.  Horsley,  a  blacksmith  by 
trade,  iiad  erected  a  small  slab  smithy,  where,  in  his  spare  time.-  he  worked  at 
jobs  for  the  settlers,  and  there  the  selectors  Avould  assemble  on  Saturday  even- 
ings and  V>urn  Mi-.  Ihnsley's  charcoal,  which  fortunately  was  plentiful,  while 
they  killed  time  by  singing,  dancing  and  telling  yarns  until  the  arrival  of  the 
mailman.  Mj'  business  was  to  get  the  mail  on  Saturday  night,  take  it  home, 
three  miles  on  foot  after  dark,  then  next  day  (Sunday)  walk  and  carry 
letters  and  papers  between  eight  and  ten  miles.  The  original  settlers  to  whom 
I  delivered  mails  were: — E.  C.  Holmes.  W.  A^.  Hill.  J.  Hosking,  X.  Bennett. 
J.  (i.  AVilson.  R.  J.  Fuller.  R.  Kewish.  Pobjoy  Bros.,  Chas.  Blew,  AY.  Blake. 
Yorath  Bros..  D.  Selby,  John  Thomas.  M.  W.  Elliott.  Henry  Hine.  AA^yndham 
Thomas,  Chas.  Muller,  P.  Xeilsen.  H.  Kimberley.  AA^.  Kay,  Henry  Bristow, 
John  Glew,  John  Patterson,  W.  T.  Patterson,  H.  E.  Leslie  and  Lardner's 
camp  of  survey(.r>.  My  destination  was  "Otterburn,''  immediately  south  of 
where  AAliitelaw  is  now.  the  most  nretentious  bush  dwelling  south  of 
McDonald's  Track,  owned  by  Patterson  Bros.,  originally  warehousemen,  who 
began  operations  in  the  bush  (m  a  scale  that  gave  me  the  impression  that  the 
selection  would  develop  into  an  extensive  station,  and  the  hospitality  of  the 
owners  was  (juite  in  keeping  Avith  this  idea.  The  first  local  brand  of  cattle 
that  I  remember  was  theirs — PB  over  O.  This  was  the  terminus  of  my 
private  mail  contract  for  some  years,  and  there  I  spent  every  Sunday  night 
during  that  time.  They  and  a  friend.  Dan  Selby.  were  batching  for  a  time, 
and  their  cooking  and  breadmaking  was  the  u-ual  lottery,  with  the  chances 
largely  in  favour  of  a  blank  failure,  and  occasionally  a  l)atch  of  bread  would 
weigh  and  appear  more  like  a  grindstone  than  what  it  was  intended  for.  On 
the  ((ccasion  of  one  of  these  dismal  failures  twr)  nepliews  were  r-taying  with 
them,  and  one  of  them.  Charlie  Potts,  was  commisioned  to  feed  the  failure  to 
a  Berkshire  boar.  "Dennis"  gi-abbed  the  missile  and  held  it  firmly  between 
his  tusks,  but  could  not  pierce  or  break  it.  and  in  rusliing  round,  dashing  the 
loaf  upon  the  ground,  first  on  one  side  and  then  the  other,  in  his  frantic 
efforts  to  break  the  crust,  he  struck  Charlie  Potts  on  the  leg.  breaking  it 
between  the  knee  and  ankle.  He  Avas  carried  on  a  stretcher  along  the  pack 
track  to  Poowong.  and  th.en  weiit  bv  coach  to  Drouiu.  where  the  leg  was  set. 


KECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  163 

and  then  went  on  to  his  home  in  Melbourne.  This  was  the  tirst  serious  acci- 
dent "Down  Soutli."  and  illustrates  hew  simply  serious  consequences  may 
follow  initial  experiences  in  batching. 

As  the  mam  South  pack  ti"ack  did  not  intersect  some  of  the  settlers' 
clearings,  side  tracks  were  made  to  connect ;  some  folloAved  survey  lines', 
others  were  simply  walking  tracks  with  footholes  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  larger 
logs,  and  often  just  a  log  to  cross  a  creek  or  gully.  These  kept  clean  enough 
for  foot  traffic  until  the  paclv  tracks  became  almost  impassable,  and  then 
horsemen  would  fossick  out  stny  by-tracks,  no  matter  how  rough  or  narrow, 
and  eventually  thei'e  would  be  only  two  options — mud  or  bush.  It  usually 
took  me  fi-oni  about  S  in  the  morning  until  dusk  to  do  the  trip,  and  the  load 
carried  was  usually  a  leather  bag  contaiiiing  letters  slung  across  my  shoulder 
and  a  sugar  bag  for  papers  and  parcels  carried  knapsack  fashion  on  my  back. 
There  Avere  many  divergent  tracks  at  which  letter  boxes  were  placed,  and 
there,  settlers  \Yould  await  my  arrival,  and.  jirovided  with  writing  materials. 
Avrite  their  replies  to  the  incoming  correspondence.  As  these  were  the  days 
of  the  "Berry  bliglif'  and  the  "Kelly  gang,"'  one  can  understand  the  eager- 
ness the  settlers  evinced  for  their  budget  of  news,  and  the  mailb.oy  was  ex- 
pected to  have  the  latest  ncAvs  ready  to  tell,  as  impatience  could  not  wait  for 
the  opening  and  reading  of  the  weekly  papers.  I  can  well  remember  the  specu- 
lations of  some  of  the  .settlers  as  to  the  possibility  of  the  Kelly  gang  taking  to 
the  South  Gippsland  ranges  to  elude  the  police.  As  showing  that  some  of 
the  settlers  kept  up  v/ith  the  times  and  clung  to  at  least  some  of  their  earlier 
habits,  previous  to  an  important  race  meetint;  in  the  city/  the  mailboy  would 
be  entrusted  ^^  ith  numerous  commissions  to  purchase  money  orders  to  be  en- 
closed to  "Miller's"  or  "Tattersall's,"  and  naturally  the  all  important  enquiry 
after  the  eyent  was  the  names  of  the  placed  horses.  It  is  a  somewhat  signifi- 
cant fact  that  out  of  at  least  half  a  dozen  successful  investors  in  these  sweeps, 
not  one  has  reaped  any  reward  for  his  labours  as  a  pioneer,  though  some  of 
them  have   worked  hard  enough  to  merit  it. 

On  many  occasions  I  had  conij)aiiy  on  my  trips,  the  settlers  themselves, 
new  iand-seekers.  and  visitors,  who  might  arrive  by  the  mail  coach  on  Satur- 
day night,  and  would  elect  to  Mn]k  out  with  me  for  company  or  as  a  guide, 
and  many  tiu;es  my  load  has  been  lightened  l)y  their  assistance.  The  first 
settlei-  I  escorted  to  "'Otterburn"  was  Mr.  M.  W.  Elliott,  who  was  then, 
though  a  cominiratively  young  man,  afflicted  with  im])aired  eyesight.  We 
were  oveitaken  by  night  in  the  ]iack  track  between  R.  J.  Fullei-'s  and  Pobjoy's, 
and  although  it  was  neai-  full  moon  it  ^rradually  became  pitrli  dark,  and  we 
afterwards  discoxered  that  we  had  been  held  up  for  aboiil  half-an-hour  by 
a  total  eclipse  of  the  moon.  This,  howevei'.  was  but  teniporai'v.  and  we  re- 
sume.1  our  journey,  but  owing  to  his  failing  eyesight  Mr.  Klliotl  had  a  most 
disti'('ssin<i-  jounic\-:  I»n1  there  was  iiothiiiu  tor  it  liul  to  )»l(iuii,h  thromili  liic 
continuous  chain  of  mndholes.  as  he  could  not  see  to  pick'  his  way  through 
the  bush. 

Mr.  Dan  Solby.  o?i(  of  the  pioneers  of  the  Stockyard  Creek  gold  rush, 
was  with  Ms  on  this  hip.  and  was'  tlie  victim  on  June  11th,  188:^  of  tflie 
second  serious  accident  in  the  disti-ict.  Tie  was  holding  a  horse  at  Mr. 
Elliott's  place,  when  it  suddeidy  plungtd  and  struck  him  on  the  right  arm 
and  broke  it.  lie  was  cari'ied  on  a  strclcher  by  citiht.  men  lo  t'oowMtun,  in 
the  night  time  along  the  pack  traci<.  .\fter  staying  ovei-night  he  went  on  by 
coach  to  Drouin  the  ne.xt  day. 

When  Messrs.  P'Jliott  and  Hine  had  established  their  bachelor  home  at 
'•Aml)leside"  we  were  asked  to  extend  the  mail  service  there,  and  we  did  so. 


1G4  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

which  meant  an  addition  of  two  or  three  miles  to  the  journey.  The  settlers 
were  increasing,  and  the  mail  became  heavier,  necessitating  the  use  of  a  horse 
for  the  service.  Among  the  new  settlers  were  Messrs.  Spring,  Clancy,  Miss 
Shepherd,  and  hiter  Messrs.  ^IcLeod,  Matlieson.  Williams.  Rainbow,  Par- 
sons. Kims,  Herring,  and  many  others.  On  July  &th,  ISSo.  my  father  ob- 
tained the  (jovernment  contract  to  convey  the  mail  hj  horse  from  Poowong 
to  McLeod's.  on  the  top  of  Mt.  ^Sliser}',  where  the  Jmnbunna  East  Post  Office 
was  established,  with  Miss  McLeod  as  postmistress.  There  was  a  hut  in 
McLeod*>  clearing,  where  we  used  to  camp  for  the  night,  with  the  horse  in 
a  small  j'ard  adjoining,  his  feed  being  brought  down  behind  the  saddle.  The 
return  journey  began  at  daybreak  the  next  morning  to  catch  the  10.30  a.m. 
coach  from  PooAvong  to  Drouin.  At  this  time  nearly  the  whole  journey 
from  Poow^ong  to  McLeod's  was  by  pack  track  through  the  scrub,  as  very  little 
of  the  country  was  cleared,  and  the  contract  price  was  £40  a  year.  My 
brothers,  Edward  and  Eobert,  carried  out  this  contract  for  some  years,  and 
it  was  afterwards  carried  by  Horsley  Bros,  and  Geo.  Matheson,  the  latter  being 
the  first  to  carry  the  mails  on  this  road  b>'  vehicle,  using  a  spring  cart  with 
two  horses  driven  tandem. 

On  August  15th,  1879,  my  father  and  I  started  the  first  clearing  in  the 
Poowong  township,  on  a  site  for  a  store  for  Mr.  .J.  Salmon.  There  was 
a  store  at  Murdoch's,  three  miles  east  of  Poowong.  and  another  at  Scott's, 
one  mile  to  the  west,  but,  as  the  main  roads  met  at  the  township  site,  it  was 
the  most  suitable  position  for  a  business.  The  timber  cleared  off  the  ground 
was  stacked  on  either  side  of  the  allotment  against  the  standing  Avail  of  .scrub. 
AVe  also  erected  the  store,  and  12  months  after,  my  father  i)urehased  the  busi- 
ness, and  fi"om  this  site  my  brothers  and  I  packed  and  .>^ledged  goods  to  all 
the  surrounding  districts.  One  consignment  Avhich  we  carted  from  the  Bluff 
at  Westernport  and  then  packed  on  two  horses  to  Yorath  Bros,  comprised  a 
large  sack  of  loaf  sugar  which,  in  passing  a  jagged  sprag  of  an  uprooted 
tree,  got  ripped  open.  I  afterwards  learned  that  Mr.  Yorath  considered 
loaf  sugar  the  most  economical,  and  it  was  so  in  this  case.  as.  though  the  track, 
where  the  accident  happened,  was  very  nmddy,  I  was  able  to  collect  most  of  it 
with  very  little  Avaste,  and  the  bag  reached  its  destination  minus  A-er}^  little 
more  than  I  had  been  able  to  eat  diu'ing  s'ah^age  operations. 

While  living  at  the  store  Ave  had  a  thrilling  experience  Avith  fire.  Ma' 
father  Avas  aAvay,  and  Mr.  Burchett  had  a  considerable  area  of  scrub  ready 
to  burn  right  opposite  the  store,  Avhich  stood  on  a  small  cleared  allotment  in 
the  green  standing  scrub,  and  Avith  a  cleared  road  in  front.  The  Avind  seemed 
faAourable,  and  it  Avas  thought  quite  safe  to  light.  The  school  Avas  situated 
close  to  one  corner  of  the  cut  scrub,  and  the  children  Avere  sent  home  before 
lighting.  A  number  of  them  had  to  pass  the  store,  and  two  of  Mark 
Gardner's  boys  and  some  other  children  stayed  at  the  store  to  watch  the 
''burn.''  About  half-an-hour  after  lighting  the  wind  changed,  and  blew  th(j 
fire  across  the  road,  lighting  the  timber  piled  oh  either  side  of  the  allotment, 
and  before  it  AVi,is  realised  that  there  Avas  a  probabilitA  of  lieiuti  hennned  in. 
the  Avhole  of  the  bush  Avas  alight,  and  the  heaA-y  burn  completely  cut  off  any 
chance  of  escaj^e  b}-  the  road  either  east  or  west.  Mr.  D.  F'errier,  Avho  was 
taking  some  pack  horses  "down  south,"  anticipating  trouble,  came  to  our 
assistance,  and  Avas  hemmed  in  with  us.  The  children  Avere  put  under 
blankets  and  made  to  lie  on  the  ground  near  an  underground  tank,  and  my 
mother  sprinkled  Avater  over  them  from  a  Avatering  can.  The  older  ones 
climV)ed  on  the  roof,  and  Avith  buckets  of  Avater  put  out  any  lighted  bark  that 
was  blown  on  it.     Tt  Avns  impossible  to  look  over  the  lidge  oAving  to  the  fierce 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  1U5 

heat  dri\en  from  the  roaring  burn.  There  was  some  powder  and  other 
explosives  in  the  store,  which  were  removed  and  put  in  a  safe  place.  The 
position  Tve  were  in  for  se\eral  hours  would  be  impossible  to  describe, 
and  it  has  ahvays  been  a  marvel  to  me  how  the  .store  escaped,  as  the  piled 
logs  and  bush  were  only  a  few  yards  distant  on  the  other  side.  In  a  couple 
of  hours  all  the  fences,  yards,  outhouses,  as  well  as  the  heaps  of  wood, 
were  gone,  the  scrub,  wiiich  ^\i\s  very  dense,  had  all  been  burned  up  under- 
neath, and  the  road  for  a  mile  eastward  had  been  sAvept  clear  of  undergrowth 
on  either  side,  and  was  littered  with  big  trees  and  branches  that  had  burned 
and  fallen.  All  our  fov  Is,  two  calves,  a  pig  and  a  dog  were  burned  Avithin 
a  few  yards  of  the  store.  Oitr  experiences  in  the  bush  fires  of  1S98  were 
severe,  but,  though  they  lasted  longer.  Avere  not  so  acute  as  on  this  occasion. 
Had  it  not  been  for  the  strenuous  efforts  of  D.  Ferrier  and  C.  Burchett,  the 
store  must  have  caught  fire,  and  our  only  shelter  would  have  proved  a  death- 
trap. Mv  father  had  the  business  until  1882,  when  he  sold  it  to  Mr.  Ben. 
Chaffey.  ' 

M}^  youngesi:  brother  became  ill  with  dropsy,  and  died  on  September 
17th,  1879.  The  nearest  cemetery  was  at  Cranbourne,  so  my  father  made  a 
coffin  with  what  timber  he  could  procure,  and  on  Government  land,  in  the 
dense  bush  just  behind  the  Methodist  Church,  Ave  dug  a  grave,  and.  Avith  the 
assistance  of  Messrs.  E.  and  IV.  Cook.  E.  C.  Holme*  and  C.  Burchett  as  coffin- 
bearers,  Ave  laid  him  to  rest  in  the  silent  forest.  Mr.  Burchett  read  the  ser- 
A'ice.  and  I  believe  this  was  the  first  death  and  burial  in  the  PooAvong  settle- 
ment. On  I7t]i  November.  1883.  another  and  A^ounger  brother  was  acci- 
dentally droAvned  at  our  home  on  the  Bass  River,  and  my  father  once  again 
made  a  coffin  for  his  youngest  son.  and  the  Avriter  had  the  sorroAvful  task  ol 
re-opening  the  grave  for  the  burial  of  another  brother. 

In  December.  1879.  mA'  father  obtained  the  contract  for  clearing  a  por- 
tion of  McDonald's  Track  near  Justin's,  and  from  then  on  for  over  30  a  ears 
we  had  contracts  in  the  Buln  Buln.  Xarracan.  AVoorayl.  and  finally  in  the 
Poowong  and  Jeetho  Shires.  In  1893  we  cleared  and  made  the  first  forma- 
tion from  RadoAHck-street,  Korumburra,  to  the  South-road  at  Cormack's. 
We  also  made  some  of  the  first  side-cuttings  on  the  Drouin  to  PooAvong-road. 
betAveen   Pheasant  Creek  and  PooAvong. 

After  applying  for  a  numl)er  of  blocks  of  land  without  success,  my  fatli- 
was  granted  tAvo  20-acre  sections  on  the  Bass  Eiver  between  the  two  bridges, 
and  there  we  made  our  ncAv  home,  and  brought  our  goods  and  chattels  on  a 
bullock  waggon  owned  by  a  Avell-known  local  carrier,  Thomas  Stafford.  This 
was  the  fii'st  Avaggon  to  travel  over  the  side  cutting  and  bridge  that  had  just 
been  completed.  The  bridge  was  naiTOAv,  and  the  approach  Avas  steep,  and 
uiit'oitiiMjitoh  M  biilNick  ti'ofi  on  Mr.  Sta(T>ird"-^  too.  aiul  Ibo  whip  handle 
retaliated.  The  leaders  turned  and  got  locked  against  the  body  bullocksj 
and  th(-  irnpetiis  of  the  Avaggon  cansed  a  deadlock.  F  hajipened  to  be  stand- 
ing on  the  bank  behind  the  Avaggon  holding  one  of  the  children  in  my  arms, 
and.  as  there  Avas  no  one  else  about  to  blame,  Thomas  picked  on  me.  and  in 
his  most  floAvery  language  expressed  his  opinion  about  things  in  general, 
and  aftei-  exhausing  his  vocabnlary  spent  an  honi-  or  moi-e  in  undoing  Avhat 
he  had  done.    This  speech  declared  the  Bass  l)i-idge  ooen  for  vehicular  tr-ifTic 

One  of  the  greatest  ])roblems  during  the  first  decade  of  settlement  "as 
obtaining  suitable  clothing  and  footweai-  foi-  the  abnormally  Avet  climate  and 
surroundings.  Keeping  boots  AvateHight  seemed  almost  an  impossibility. 
For  many  yeai's  the  only  bootmaker  nearer  than  Cranbourne  or  Drouin  was 
a  very  hardworkinir,  honest,  local  celebrity  named  Billy  Baker,  Avho  oAvned 


166  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

a  few  acres  of  land,  and  was  the  sole  support  of  his  mother,  who  lived  with 
him.  In  a  small  two-roomed  hut  Billy  toiled  night  and  day  to  keep  the 
settlers'  feet  dry,  and  the  passer-by  on  a  dark  evening  would  be  certain  to  see 
a  dim  light  in  the  window  of  his  cabin,  and  either  hear  the  tap,  tap  of  his 
hammer  or  the  toot  of  his  cornet,  the  latter  his  only  source  of  recreation.  He 
had  original  ideas  on  finance,  and  kej^t  his  well-earned  savings  on  the  premises 
in  an  old-fashioned  stone  pitcher,  and  paid  for  all  his  requirements  in  cash. 
On  one  occasion  Mr.  (ito.  Morton  and  Mr.  F.  E.  Damon  called  for  some  repairs, 
and  were  sitting  round  the  fire.  Mr.  Motton  was  paying  his  account,  and 
Billy  asked  Mr.  Damon  to  hand  down  a  tin,  in  which  small  change  was  kept, 
from  off  the  shelf,  in  order  to  balance  the  account.  Mr.  Damon  was  about 
to  take  hold  of  the  tin,  when  he  noticed  a  large  snake  lying  full  length  along 
the  shelf.  Instinctively  he  jumped  back.  and.  grabbing  the  nearest  weapon, 
an  old  axehandle,  was  about  to  deal  the  death  blow,  when  Billy  clutched  his 
arm  and  arrested  the  stroke,  imploring  him  not  to  interfere  Avith  the  snake, 
as  it  had  been  his  pet  for  two  j^ears,  that  he  was'  never  troubled  with  mice 
OM'ing  to  his  snakeship,  and  he  would  not  have  him  killed  for  anything. 
When  Mrs.  Baker  died,  Billy  came  to  our  place  to  arrange  for  the  burial. 
My  father  was  away  from  home,  but  generally  kept  material  on  hand,  so, 
with  the  assistance  of  a  man.  George  Avery,  working  for  us.  who  had  been  a 
ship's  carpenter,  I  carried  out  the  duties  of  undertaker,  gravedigger,  sexton 
and  chaplain  with  an  assurance  that  now  seems  startling  for  a  lad  of  15  years. 

On  September  2nd,  1887,  a  heavy  windstorm  uprooted  a  number  of  big 
trees  near  Whitelaw,  one  of  which  fell  across  a  tent  occupied  by  four  men  en- 
gaged in  clearing  timber  on  the  route  of  the  railway.  Two  of  the  men  were 
killed  outright,  a  third  had  lii*^  arm  broken,  and  the  foiu'th  was  so  dazed  and 
affected  by  shock  that  he  had  to  be  taken  to  ISIelbourne  for  treatment.  My 
father  made  the  coflins  at  Poowong  and  took  them  part  of  the  way  by  dray 
and  then  made  a  siedge  on  which  he  took  them  to  the  scene  of  the  accident. 
He  brought  the  bodies  bacli  by  sledge  to  the  dray  track,  where  they  were 
transferi'ed  to  the  dray.  A  heavy  hailstorms  had  occurred  the  previous  night, 
giving  the  country  the  appearance  of  being  covered  with  snow.  On  the 
journey  back  darkness  overtook  them  near  Pobjoy's.  and  it  was  also  raining 
heavily,  so  the  gruesome  cargo  was  left  in  the  cart  in  the  bush,  n\y  father 
and  brother  arriving  home  late  al  night  and  drenched.  Xext  morning  my 
brother  and  I  set  out  with  fresh  horses,  and  brought  the  vehicle  to  Poowong. 

A  startling  experience  l)efel  our  whole  family  on  Septemlier  3rd.  1883. 
AVe  Avere  living  close  to  the  bridge  on  the  Bass  River,  and  our  water  supply 
was  a  spring  on  the  side  of  a  small  lagoon,  and  under  the  root  of  a  large  dry 
tree,  about  100  feet  high.  We  were  all  seated  at  breakfast,  and  my  youngest 
brother,  John,  was  sent  for  a  bucket  of  water.  When  he  returned  he  made 
some  remark  about  the  roots  of  this  tree  lifting  up.  but  no  attention  was  paid 
to  the  matter.  A  few  minutes  later  there  came  a  terrific  crash  as  if  a 
thunderbolt  had  dropped  on  the  house,  but  the  only  evidence  we  had  in 
the  room  was  that  one  of  the  rafters  had  split  from  to])  to  bottom  and  fallen 
on  the  floor,  fortunately  without  hurtiiig  anyone.  The  three  bedrooms  lay 
between  the  dining  room  and  the  tree,  and  when  the  door  was  opened  Ave 
found  that  my  mother's  bedroom  had  been  com])letely  Avi-ecked.  and  the  rest 
of  the  rooms  had  miraculously  escaped,  except  that  the  roofing  iron  Avas  bat- 
tered. The  tree  was  between  three  and  four  feet  in  thickness,  and  was  mostly 
decomposed  sodden  Avood.  Had  it  been  six  feet  longer  the  Avhole  house  and 
family  Avould  have  been  pulped.  My  mothei-'s  room  Avas  nothing  but  a  Avreck 
of  smashed  tree  and  biiildin<r.  and  tlie  four  iron  leas  of  tlie  bedstead  Avere 


RECOLLECTIONS     ASU     EXPERFENCL' 


Ki: 


A    i'..\r..\.\ci.\<;    TitifK    r.v   the   storm    ki.\(;. 

In    a    gnle.    a    hip-    trre    was    IpIdwii     (1ii\\ii.    ami.    fallinj;    across    a    stiimp,    bridce    off    at    I'ach    oiul 
and   left   :'.Ot"t.   of  the  fenti-o   halaiiccil   as   shown. 


driven  llnoiiiili  the  -awn  hardwood  iioor.  It  i.s  a  iciuarkable  coincidence  thai 
it  was  not  on;-e  ii<  months  that  n\y  mother  sat  at  breakfast  with  the  resli 
of  the  family,  yet  on  this  particnhir  morninir  she  iiad  ])ro\i(lentially  left  her 
room  and   joinec]  the  others  at  l)reakfast; 

Another  experience  with  a  ti'ee  befel  us  at  Arawata  in  Sei^temher.  1888. 
AVe  had  ei-ected  a  camp  to  cut  scrub,  and  usually  worked  there  lurinn'  the 
week,  and  walivcd  liome  to  Poowong;  on  kSaturday  ni«;hl  and  back  on  Monday 
morninif.  One  Saturday  ui^riit  we  had  jrone  to  T*oowon<>'  a.'^  u^uai.  and  on 
returning'  found  that  a  .<ireeu  tree  al'oiit  two  feet  in  diameter  had  fallen  across 
the  camp.  demolishin«r  evei-ythinir. 

Pi'obably  the  heaviesi  windstorm  experienced  in  thi.s  di.strict  .since  its 
settlement  occuiicd  at  4  p.m.  on  October  11th.  1802.  The  gale  was  of  cyclonic 
force,  and  thouLdi  ii  only  histed  about  I'O  jninutes  it  wrecked  many  miles  of 
forest,  coniihy,  Iravellin.u  in  liutters  oi'  strips.  One  .strip  of  heavy  lilut- 
o-uni  timber  o?i  M(d)onahrs  Ti-ack  past  .\dkins  and  Son'-  sl(n<'  was 
so  completely  devastated  that  it  was  months  bcbirc  the  Wimrayl  Sjnre 
Council  iiot  the  lojrs  cleared  and  the  I'oad  opened  foi-  traflic.  The  storm  had 
made  such  havoc  in  the  shire  that  all  tlu  availal)le  labour  was  employed, 
and  the  portion  lieinj;  one  of  the  heaviest  was  left  until  the  last.  The  track 
of  the  storm  is  .still  shown  by  the  biij  bhiepim  uproots  to  be  seen  in  patches 
in   various  parts  of  the  distiict.     In   some  cases  whole  acres  of  scrult   were 


lt).s  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

levelled  by  the  wiiuL  and  Avere  burnt  l)y  the  settlers,  thus  saving  the  labour  of 
scrubcuttiiiL'".  and  illustratinir  the  old  saying  that  ""it  is  an  ill  wind  that  blows 
nobody  good."'  The  writer  had  cut  an  acre  or  two  of  a  patch  of  35  acres  of 
scrub,  when  this  storm  occurred  and  battered  most  of  the  rest  down.  Many 
cattle  were  killed.  In  one  case  a  settler  lost  eight  cows  killed  by  one  tree, 
in  another  case  three  cattle  were  killed  by  a  tree,  and  in  an  adjoining  paddock, 
heavih-  timbered  with  dry  trees,  in  which  30  or  40  head  were  grazing,  not  one 
was  injured. 

Although  I  knjw  of  dozois  of  tree^  being  struck  by  lightning.  I  do  not 
know  of  one  fatal  accident  from  this  cause.  Within  a  radius  of  10  chains 
fi'om  where  I  vcrite  I  know  of  eight  tall  bluegum  trees  that  have  been  struck 
during  the  past  :20  years,  and  each  has  had  a  small  strip  guttered  out  from 
top  to  bottom.  1  attribute  the  cause  to  an  outcrop  of  ironstone  on  the  east 
and  a  bluestone  blow  close  by  on  the  west.  About  4  p.m.  one  muggy  day, 
when  the  writer  was  diggijig  in  the  garden.  Avithout  the  slightest  warning 
of  approaching  storm,  a  sudden  swish  and  hiss  passed  him.  causing  him  to 
drop  the  spade  as  if  he  had  been  shot,  then  instantaneously  a  crashing  ex- 
plosion occurred,  and  nothing  fui-ther  happened.  On  looking  round,  no  trace 
could  be  found  of  anything  being  liit,  but  subse(iuently  it  was  found  that  on  an 
adjoining  property  the  larger  of  two  trees  growing  together,  one  about  three 
feet  and  the  other  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  both  solid  as  a  rock,  had  been 
literally  torn  to  pieces.  The  paddock  for  chains  round  looked  like  a  timber 
yard,  newly  split  wood  lying  everywhere,  one  piece  about  20  feet  long  and 
the  size  of  a  fencing  post  being  hurled  six  or  eight  cliains  down  the  hill  and 
driven  feet  into  the  gi'ound  in  the  hard  dry  roadway.  The  other  tree  was 
still  standing,  but  a  gi-eat  rent  30  or  40  feet  long  right  through  the  solid  dry 
tough  bluegum  told  of  the  immense  force  of  the  explosion. 

In  the  early  80*s.  in  company  with  other  lads  of  my  own  age,  it  was  an 
annual  custom  to  make  a  sporting  excursion  to  Lang  Lang  or  Tooradin. 
Hares  and  ducks  were  the  chief  game,  and  altliough  we  took  this  trip  for 
many  years  in  succession,  we  never  saw  or  shot  a  rabbit  east  of  Yallock  Creek. 
Seeking  a  change  of  sporting  ground,  and  hearing  there  was  a  pack  track 
open  to  Anderson's  Inlet,  Sam  Gardner  and  I  left  Poowong  on  April  7th. 
1882,  and  started  with  blankets,  food  and  ammunition  to  see  what  sport  could 
be  got.  Our  instructions  were,  after  leaving  the  scrub  and  reaching  the  heath 
country,  to  go  by  compass  due  south  until  reaching  the  Buffalo  track:  after 
that  certain  plains  and  belts  of  timber  were  to  be  observed  and  folloAved. 
We  got  on  all  right  to  the  Butfalo  track,  but  darkness  overtook  us,  and  we 
lost  our  reckoning,  and  had  to  rely  solely  on  the  Southern  Cross  and  the 
compass.  We  could  hear  the  roar  of  the  sea.  and  were  tempted  on  this 
account  to  bear  to  the  west,  but  decided  to  keep  due  south,  and  struck  Screw- 
creek  track,  just  at  the  shores  of  Anderson's  Inlet.  We  rode  round  some 
distance,  but  could  find  no  house,  so  returned  to  the  track,  where  there  was 
a  small  ti-tree  mia-mia  with  a  couple  of  bunks.  We  decided  to  stay  there, 
but  there  was  no  fresh  water.  .  Then  we  heard  dogs  barking  not  far  away, 
and  rode  towards  the  sound  for  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  when  we  found  on 
a  rise  a  nice  little  homestead  occupied  by  Captain  Beck.  There  we  were 
offered  hospitality  and  paddockmg  for  our  horses.  We  stayed  there  three 
days  and  saw  a  few  ducks',  but  ne^er  got  within  shot  of  one.  On  the  return 
journey  we  saw  several  kangaroos  and  two  emus  in  the  open  country. 

On  September  7th,  1883.  I  was  commissioned  to  serve  a  summons  on  a 
man  at  Black's  Station,  at  the  TarAvin.  I  rode  A-ia  '\^niitelaw's  track  to  'Sir. 
Jacob  Thomas's,  near  Leongatha.  Avhere  I  was  further  directed.     On  reaching 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  169 

the  Tarwin  I  could  find  no  bridge.  ::^o  decided  to  holjble  my  horse  with  the 
stirrup  leather  and  svrim.  across.  Close  to  the  bank  ^yas  an  old  deserted  hut, 
where  cattle  had  been  camping.  I  entered  it  and  put  my  saddle  down,  when 
I  noticed  a  continuous  ticking,  as  of  many  watches.  iMery  time  I  stirred  I  heard 
the  same  sound.  Then  I  noticed  that  several  large  sheets  of  newspapers  were 
lying  on  the  dust  floor,  and  that  when  I  moved  some  hundreds  of  fleas  hopped 
and  when  they  alighted  on  the  paper  made  the  noise  I  heard.  I  beat  a  hasty 
retreat,  and  was  glad  that  I  wore  leather  leggings  and  white  moleskins'.  Just 
as  I  was  prepared  to  take  a  header  to  cross  the  river,  two  men  came  upstream 
in  a  boat  and  kindly  ofl:ered  to  put  me  across.  Then  I  had  abotit  three- 
quarters  of  a  mile  to  walk  to  the  homestead  across  the  famous  Tarwin 
meadows,  which  were  then  mostlv  swamps  and  thick  clumps  of  ti-tree.  I 
was  somewhat  alarmed  by  several  mobs  of  fat  cattle  that  came  circling  round 
me.  but  a  few  vigorous  cracks  of  my  stockwhip  induced  them  to  retire.  I 
deli^  ered  my  piece  of  blue  j^aper  and  stayed  the  night  in  the  men's  hut.  As 
I  learned  that  it  was  considered  very  risky  to  go  through  the  mobs  of  cattle 
I  had  seen  the  previous  day,  I  rettirned  by  another  and  less  exciting  rotite. 

In  1882  I  was  one  of  a  party  engaged  in  surveying  the  coal  reserves  near 
Coal  Creek  into  coal  leases,  under  Mr.  Ayers,  who  was  acting  for  Dr.  L.  L. 
Smith  and  Mr.  S.  Crnwcour.  We  stayed  at  jMr.  Shingler's.  and  the  writer 
has  a  vivid  recollection  of  the  first  night  or  tAvo  when  he  and  some  others 
slept  on  a  kind  of  loft  made  for  storing  with  a  floor  made  of  round  hazel 
poles  extending  across  the  hut  from  the  top  of  one  wall  to  the  other.  The 
poles  were  of  A'arious  sizes  and  shapes,  and  in  their  own  silent  way  made 
night  hideous.  Mr.  Ayers  had  some  previous  knowledge  of  the  coal  deposits 
of  South  Gippsland.  having  been  with  a  surveyor  named  Harrison,  who  had 
surveyed  this  same  country  many  years  previously  from  the  coast  side.  We 
came  across  survey  lines,  white  painted,  -t  x  4-inch  pegs,  that  had  rotted  off 
and  fallen  down,  and  indications  of  a  narrow  waggon  track  that  had  been 
made  into  the  hills.  Logs  that  had  been  cut  and  rolled  to  one  side  were  (piite 
overgroAvn  with  moss,  and  only  the  cut  logs  and  blazes  remained  to  show  that 
a  road  had  once  been  made  through  the  bush.  We  also  found  a  small  shaft  in 
the  gidly  at  the  rear  of  where  the  Korumburra  State  school  now  stands,  which 
pierced  a  seam  of  coal  four  feet  in  thickness.  These  leases  comprised  two 
ar^as  of  1280  acres  each,  and  as  all.  with  the  exception  of  a  very  small  corner 
of  heathy  plain,  was  dense  forest,  and  Mr.  Shingk>r's  hut  was  well  outside 
the  l)oundaries.  and  there  were  no  tracks  of  any  kinds,  the  work  of  traversing 
these  lines  to  and  from  our  work  meant  a  fair  day's  work  without  doing  any 
survey  or  other  work.  On  one  of  our  return  trips  to  camp  we  struck  an  old 
survey  line  Avhich  Mr.  Ayers  thought  would  bring  us  to  camp,  but  after  follow- 
ing tiie  direction  until  dark  we  found  we  were  bushed.  We  had  with  us  a 
miner  whose  lungs  had  been  affected  by  dynamite  fumes,  and  he  said  he  could 
go  no  further  and  would  look  foj-  a  hollow  log  to  camp  in.  We  jiersuaded 
him  to  keep  going,  and  started  coo-eeing  in  tlie  hope  tiiat  Mr.  Sliiugler.  who 
woiihl  be  wondering  what  had  become  of  us,  wouhl  hear  us.  About  half-past 
ten  we  heard  a  faint  reply,  and  made  our  way  back  to  cam]),  which  we  reached 
completely  knocked  up  and  starving,  as  we  hiul  nothing  since  early  morning 
but  a  small  lunch.  This  was  the  only  occasion  on  which  I  have  been  lost  in 
the  bush  in  riippshmd.  and  I  often  think,  when  drivinor  at  night  time  in 
Korum))uria  under  the  G:h)w  of  the  electric  light,  of  the  ditterent  circumstances 
undei-  which  I  crossed  the  same  spot  in  18S2.  Xr>t  long  after  this  Mr.  Mackey, 
who  li\ed  on  his  selection  neai-  Koi-umburrn,  got  lost  in  the  bush  on  his  own 
land,  and  wandered  about  for  nearly  a  week  without  any  food  excejit  roots, 
eventually  emfrcrinir  on  his  own  clearing  more  dead  than  alive.    My  brother 


170  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Eobei't.  when  with  ^Slr.  Fiehl's  siirve}'  camp,  near  Leongatha.  was  overtaken 
by  darkness  on  the  pack  track  neai-  Fairbank  in  company  with  another  mem- 
ber of  the  camp.  Tliey  manajred  to  get  oii  the  track,  and  had  to  spend  the 
night  sitting  under  a  tree  waiting  for  daylight  to  enable  them  to  resume  their 
journey. 

After  surveying  the  Strzelecki  and  Coal  Creek  leases.  Mr.  Ayers  let  a 
contract  to  the  writer  and  two  others  to  drive  a  tunnel.  Camp  outfit,  tools 
and  provisions  w-ere  brought  by  pack  horse  to  Shingler's.  and  then  everything 
had  to  be  carried  on  men's  backs  along  survey  lines  to  the  camp.  The  w^riter's 
duties  Avere  cook,  wdieeler  out,  and  preparing  props  and  staves  for  timbering 
the  drive.  The  cook's  outfit  consisted  of  a  billy,  a  kerosene-tin  bucket,  and  a 
camp  oven  lid.  so  there  was  not  much  variety  in  the  cooking — damper  or 
scones  made  on  the  camp-o\en  lid.  and  boiled  beef — and  a  walk  twice  a  week 
to  Shingler's  for  provisions  was  part  of  the  progi-amme.  While  I  w^as  busy 
cooking  damper,  cutting  and  splitting  props  and  wheeling  mullock  up  a  sleep 
grade  on  a  line  of  split  slabs  in  a  muddy  wet  gully,  the  Coal  Creek  Coal 
Mining  Company  and  the  Strzelecki  Coal  Mining  Company  were  floated,  and 
promoter's  shares  offered  locally,  and  I  well  remember  there  was  con^derable 
competition  for  these  bv  some  of  the  selectors,  and  the  resuJts  of  my  opera- 
tions in  the  coal  shafts  and  drives  was  iuA'ested  in  promoter's  shares  in  the 
Coal  Creek  lease,  but  the  investment  was  made  in  a  mercenary  spirit,  and 
perhaps  it  was  a  just  retribution  that  the  result  of  those  weeks  of  hard  labour 
should  have  to  be  written  otf  as  a  philanthropic  contribution  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  mineral  resources  of  South  (rippsland.  On  September  22.  1882. 
two  large  blocks  of  coal  Avere  hewn  from  the  tunnel  at  Silkstone  and  my  father 
packed  them  out  and  forwarvled  them  to  ]\Ielbourne.  where  they  were  for  some 
time  on  view  at  the  "Wliite  Hart  hotel. 

"\^Tien  the  little  settlement  on  McDonald's  Track  possessed  a  church, 
store  and  a  ptiblic  house,  it  became  necessary  that,  as  a  township,  it  shotdd 
haA''e  a  name.  South  of  McDonald's  Track  was  the  i^aris'h  of  Jeetho,  and 
north  was  the  parish  of  Poowong.  So  a  public  meeting  Avas  called  to  choose 
a  name  for  the  first  township  in  the  hills.  There  Avas  no  doubt  that  either 
Poowong  or  Jeetho  Avould  be  selected,  liut  feeling  ran  high  as  to  the  claims  for 
preference.  On  the  north,  or  Poo\Aong.  side  was  the  public  house:  on  the 
south  or  Jeetho  side  were  the  church  and  store,  and  the  Jeethoites  made  the 
further  claim  that  the  GoA^ernment  toAvnship  reserA'e  was  on  their  side  of  the 
track.  But  one  old  Scotch  gentleman  aa'Iio  liAed  miles  aAAay  from  the  scene 
of  debate  remarked  disdainf ulh'.  "Jeetho.  indeed !  A  gospel  shop,  and  a 
paltry,  tin-pot  stoi-e.  T'll  vote  for  PooAvong."  That  settled  the  question.  A 
vote  was  taken,  and  the  little  hamlet  Avas  named  Poowong. 

As  settleiTient  increased,  the  need  of  a  more  commodious  public  hall  Avas 
felt  at  Poowong,  as.  up  to  this  time.  1884.  the  old  Wesleyan  church  had 
done  duty  as  church,  public  hall,  and  school.  After  several  public  meetings 
had  been  held  to  discuss  ways  and  means,  tenders  Avere  called  for  an  Athen- 
aeum, 40  X  24  feet,  nearly  opposite  the  church,  and  my  father  obtained  the 
contract.  An  old  district  identity.  James  Bishop.  avIio  had  some  experience  at 
pitsawing.  imdertook.  Avith  the  Avriter  as  assistant,  to  pitsaAv  all  the  hardAvood 
necessary  for  the  framework.  The  necessary  pitsaAvs.  files,  dogs,  lines,  etc.. 
were  obtained,  and  a  fine-looking  tree  about  4  feet  in  diameter  in  the  bush  on 
the  toAvnship  reser\^e  was  selected.  While  two  men  cut  it  doAvn  and  into 
lengths.  Bishop  and  I  built  tip  a  log  saAv-bench  and  excavated  a  pit  under- 
neath, and  Avhen  CA'erything  Avas  in  readiness.  Ave  rolled  one  log  into  position 
to  start  operations  and  discovered,  to  oin-  dismay,  that  the  timber  was  "dosey." 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  171 

and  absolutely  useless.  Another  ti-ee  was  selected  and  another  pit  huilt.  -26 
feet  long,  and  the  ground  being  level  we  had  to  excaAate  the  pit  to  a  depth  of 
three  feet,  to  avoid  rolling  the  logs  too  high.  August  being  a  wet  month,  it 
was  usual  for  the  pit  to  till  up  every  night  w'ith  the  rain,  and,  as  the  writer 
had  the  inferior  post  of  bottom  sawyer,  it  was  his  duty  to  bale  out  the  pit 
Avhile  the  top-sawyer  sharpened  and  set  the  saw.  Then  the  day  would  be 
spent  standing  and  walking  in  the  muddy  pit  while  making  herculean  efforts 
to  keep  a  badly  set  saw  on  the  line.  However,  after  about  two  months"  work, 
the  necessary  timber  Avas  ready,  and  the  hall  came  into  existence.  It  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1898.  and  another  and  larger  one  was  built  in  its  jilace. 

In  September.  1880.  my  father,  brothers  and  I  erected  the  Poowong  police 
station,  the  first  lock-up  in  the  hill  country.  The  material  had  been  cut  out 
in  Melbourne  and  only  required  putting  together  and  bolting  when  it  arri\ed. 
The  same  year  Ave  had  several  contracts  for  scrub  cutting,  and  one  for  scrub 
cutting,  picking-up.  and  burning  off.  The  Summer  Avas  exceptionally  Avet, 
and  Ave,  as  Avell  as  many  others,  Avere  unable  to  get  a  burn  until  the  following 
Summer.  In  the  meantime,  there  had  been  a  prolific  groAvth  of  undergrowth, 
Avhich  had  to  be  slashed  over  the  Avhole  area  before  a  burn  could  be  obtained. 
This  involved  additional  Avorlv  and  expense,  in  addition  to  the  loss  of  a  year's 
grass. 

Covering  the  flats  and  along  the  creeks  and  rivers  Avere  large  (luantities  of 
silver  Avattle  trees  from  a  fcAv  inches  to  tAvo  feet  in  diameter.  Several  attempts 
were  made  to  find  a  remuneratiA'e  market  for  the  bark,  but  none  Avere  success- 
ful. In  1878  my  father  inter\ieAved  several  merchants  in  Melbourne,  and  found 
they  were  prepared  to  pay  £5  a  ton  for  silver  Avattle  bark  delivered  in  Mel- 
bourne. A  Mr.  Noble  from  Geelong  Avas  the  first  to  test  the  market  value  of 
the  bark.  My  brothers  and  I  did  some  stripping  on  this  occasion.  The  bark 
Avas  cut  into  :^-feet  lengths  and  tied  in  bundles,  and  left  some  time  to  dry 
before  carting.  OA\ing  to  ditiiculties  of  transport,  very  little  Avas  sent  away. 
A  feAv  A^ears  later  Messrs.  Wallace-Dunlop,  C.  Cook  and  E.  C.  Holmes,  jun., 
made  seA-eral  attempts'  to  develop  the  industry  by  carting  it  to  Drouin  Avith 
horse  teams  as  back  loading,  but  not  much  came  of  the  enterprise  except 
experience.  It  Avas  thought  at  one  time  that  some  of  the  forest  timber, 
es])eciallA^  blackAvood,  Avould  become  of  considerable  commercial  value.  A 
large  quantity  of  l)lackAvood  staves  Avere  split  and  sent  to  Melbourne  fi'om 
Ruby,  and  blackwood  logs  from  Kardella.  The  latter  place  Avas  the  centre 
of  a  large  belt  of  good  bluegum  timber,  and  when  the  raihvay  was  opened, 
saAvmills  were  erected  and  a  thriving  business  done  in  saAvn  hardAvood.  the 
price  at  the  station  being  6/-  per  hundred  super.  Treefern  stem>  cut  in 
lengths  fi-om  four  to  six  feet  Avere  also  sent  away  in  truckloads.  for  {planting 
in  tubs  or  gardens. 

i)in-ing  the  earlier  years  of  settlement,  ploughing  was  out  of  the  question, 
owing  to  the  innumerable  stumps  Avith  Avhich  the  ground  was  studded,  so 
that  all  cnltivation  Avas  done  with  either  spade  or  hoe.  If  oats  were  lo  be 
soAvn.  they  Avere  broad-<-asted  on  the  newly-burned  gi-ound.  which  Avould  then 
be  hncK'ed  over  AAith  hoes  to  a  depth  of  a  feAv  inches,  and  nothing  fiu-thcr  was 
done  iiiilil  harvest.  Potatoes  were  planted  alonir  a  line  and  the  earth  lioed 
over  them.  Some  extraordinary  yields  Avere  obtained  by  these  |)rimilive 
methods  of  cnltivation.  I  haA^e  seen  numbers  of  Early  Vermont  potatoes 
wi'ijrhing  from  four  to  six  [lounds  each.  Ft  is  rcniarkiiljlc  that  neither  vege- 
tables nor  fruit  dovelopcfl  .1i~c;i.-c.~  nv  blight,  ibr  cbicf  cncmii's  \h'\u'j  |i;irrots, 
wallabies  and  caterpillars. 


172  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

In  many  ra^e>  the  ^ettlt-r^'  lionies  were  lo/r  huts  with  shin<>"le  or  l)ark  roof. 
A  few  may  >till  he  seen,  the  crevices  stopped  with  the  mud  of  30  or  40  years 
ajzo.  and  while  many  of  them  were  really  snug  and  comfortal^le,  yet  to  me  they 
will  always  he  associated  with  tarantulas  and  tii>er  snakes,  and  as  they  happen 
to  be  my  pet  aversions,  the  association  robs  the  log  hut  of  that  poetry  which 
past  history  might  otherwise  lend  to  it.  The  great  difficulty  in  building  a  bush 
house  was  to  make  it  snake  proof:  in  fact,  this  was  almost  impossible,  as 
these  reptiles  could   crawl   through  such  small  openings,  under   the  doors, 
through  the  b])enings  in  the  floors,  which  were  usually  made  of  dressed  black- 
wood  or  gum  slabs,  made  of  green  timber,  which  Avould  shrink  a  great  deal 
during  the  first  Summer,  and  leave  ample  room  for  snakes  to  enter.    If  their 
visits  Avere  restricted  to  the  hours  of  daylight  it  would  not  have  been  so  bad, 
but  on  hot  nights  they  were  liable  to  be  in  any  ])art  of  the  house  at  any  hour 
of  the  night.   Our  next-door  neighbour,  a  lady  of  rather  nervous  temperament, 
would  not  retire  to  rest  on  a  warm  night  without  first  spreading  newspapers 
all  over  the  floor  of  the  bedroom,  so  that  if  a  snake  got  into  the  room,  they 
could  hear  it.     I  have  often  sat  alone  in  my  sitting  room  reading  or  writing, 
and  have  heard  or  seen  a  picture  on  the  wall  move  when  everything  else  was 
still,  and  I  do  not  know  of  anything  more  nerve-racking  than  trying  to  locate 
by  sound  the  position  of  a  snake  inside  the  lining  of  the  wall  under  such 
circumstances.    I  have  in  my  possession  a  sea  chest  with  a  hole  three  inches  in 
diameter  that  Avas  blown  out  of  it  a  quarter  of  a  century  ago  in  a  snake  ad* 
\entnre.     My  Avife  and  I  had  retired  to  rest,  when  a  peculiar,  creepy  sound 
in  the  partition  wall  arrested  my  attention.     It  Avas  as  if  a  hand  were  passed 
quietly  along  the  sleeve  of  a  coat.    One  might  hear  it  for  a  feAv  seconds,  then  it 
would  cease  for  some  time.  ])erhaps  several  minutes,  then  it  would  start  again. 
My  Avife  olijected  to  the  company,  and  retired  to  the  old  homestead.     "With 
lani])  in  one  hand,  and  a  carving  fork  in  the  otlier.  and  straining  every  nerA^e, 
listening  to   locate   the   snake's   Avhereabouts.   I  stabbed  hessian   and   paper 
through  and  tlirough.  and  thought  I  had  secured  him.    EA-entually  I  decided 
to  go  into  the  kitchen,  some  30  feet  distant  and  under  the  same  roof,  to  get  a 
gun    AA-hich  I  always  kept  loaded  in  Summer-time.    As  I  reached  the  gun 
doAvn  from  the  hooks  on  the  wall.  I  noticed  what  appeared  like  a  galvanised 
iron  pipe  about  1^  inches  in  diameter  coiled  around  the  ceiling  wall-plate, 
which  was  ex})Osed.     To  my  surprise  it  moved,  and  then  it  dawned  upon  me 
that  it  Avas  the  underneath  ]:)art  of  the  snake.    Placing  the  lamp  on  the  table  I 
fired  and  shot  it  in  two.    About  two  feet  of  the  head  end  dropped  and  I  fired 
another  shot,  finishing  it  of!'.    On  hearing  the  reports  our  peo]3le  came  to  see 
the  kill.  and.  on  investigating,  Ave  found  that  I  had  just  missed  the  piano  in  the 
next  room,  which  I  had  forgotten  in  my  excitement,  and  had  fired  into  the  sea 
chest  Avhich  stood  against  it.  and  which  contained  fancy  crockery,  wedding 
presents  and  other  household  goods.     Some  of  the  crockery  was  smashed,  but 
as  the  piano  had  escaped  and  the  silent  visitor  been  secured,  we  had  a  cu])  of 
coffee  and  no  recriminations.    On  another  occasion  my  wife  and  sister  were  alone 
in  the  house  when  one  of  them  saw  a  snake  at  the  front  door.    ThcA^  got  a  gun. 
and  by  some  accident  it  went  off  in  the  sitting-room,  the  shot  passing  through 
the  roof  and  leaA'ing  a  record  of  the  incident  that  will  last  as  long  as  the 
homestead.       The    snake     disappeared     under     the     house,     but    my    Avife's 
brother  appeared  on  the  scene,  and  by  arranging  two  mirrors  so  as  to  reflect 
the  rays  of  the  sun  under  the  house.  discoA-ered  the  snake  coiled  up  about  the 
middle  of  the  Iwilding.     Being  a  crack  shot  he  killed  the  snake  and  Ave  cut  a 
flooring  board  and  managed  to  remoAe  it.     One  Summer  afternoon  niA'  sister. 
on  entering  a  bedroom,  saw  a  sn.ake  coiled  up  on  a  dressing  table  in  front  of 
the  windoAv.    As  she  came  into  the  room  the  snake  moved  quietly  out  lluongh 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  173 

the  opeji  window,  but  not  quickly  enough,  as  my  sister  dropped  the  window, 
piiniing  it  to  the  sill,  where  it  was  held  till  someone  came  and  dispatched  it. 
Many  other  incidents  might  be  given  of  narrow  escapes  as  well  as  more  serious 
happenings,  but  enough  has  been  said  to  convey  some  idea  of  the  constant 
horror  and  dread  that  was  experienced,  especially  by  the  women,  during  the 
hot  nights  of  the  Summer  and  Autumn  months.  Several  doctors,  notably 
Dr.  Mackenzie,  made  exhaustive  experiments  with  snake-bite  cures,  and  many, 
including  the  writer,  brought  in  snakes,  dead  and  alive,  with  which  the  doctor 
would  experiment  upon  domestic  animals,  sometimes  using  the  live  snake,  and 
at  others  extracting  the  poison  and  injecting  it.  I  remember  taking  a  lilack 
snake  six  feet  long,  the  longest  snake  I  have  ever  seen  in  (xippsland,  which  was 
killed  in  Mr.  Twyford's  kitchen  by  a  man  throwing  a  brick  at  it 

Until  the  Drouin  road  Avas  opened,  the  only  doctor  who  visited  Poowong 
was  Dr.  Thos.  Palmes,  of  Berwick.  On  his  first  visit  after  the  opening  of  the 
railway  to  Drouin.  I  was  deputed  to  take  a  horse  to  Drouin  for  him^  and  as 
we  only  owned  one  horse,  my  return  to  Drouin  was  on  foot,  a  journey  not 
easily  forgotten. 

The  first  attempt  to  acclimatise  fish  in  the  local  streams  was  on  October 
25,  1887,  when  I  drove  to  Drouin  and  brought  tAvo  large  cans  containing 
sabnon  trout  from  the  Ballai-at  acclimatisation  gardens.  My  instructions 
were  to  dri^e  carefully  and  empty  one  can  into  the  Bass  and  the  other  into 
the  ]ittle  Bass,  south  of  PooAvoug  townshi]).  I  carried  out  my  insl ructions, 
but  I  doubt  if  after  so  long  a  journey,  miles  of  it  oA'er  rough  corchn-oy  roads, 
any  fish  survived. 

In  the  same  year  Mr.  Lemju-iere,  living  near  Bena.  made  the  fii-st  attempt 
locally  to  make  ensihige.  He  l)uilt  a  stack  and  i)ivited  the  fai'iners  to  gather 
and  see  the  result.  Although  there  Avas  a  considerable  amount  of  Avaste,  the 
stack,  Avhen  opened  up,  proved  that  it  Avas  possible  to  conserve  the  rich  Spring 
and  Summer  gi-OAvths  of  fodder  profitably  for  Winter  use,  and  that  cattle 
would  readily  eat  it,  although  in  neither  smell  nor  appearance  did  it  seem 
agreeable.  Mr.  R.  O.  Tinirns  of  PooAvong  Avas  the  first  to  try  it  on  a  largfe 
scale.  He  built  a  large  shed,  grew  a  considei'able  area  of  maize.  Avhich  he 
stacked  gi-een  and  pressed  l)v  means  of  wire  sti-ainers.  On  eusilage  made  by 
this  method  he  milked  over  100  coaas,  Avith  good  results. 

Mr.  Mark  (iardner  and  his  son  Charles  Avei-e  the  first  to  embark  in  the 
chee.se-making  indnstiy.  They  built  a  small  cheese  factory,  and  carted  the 
produce  to  Drouin  as  soon  as  the  road  Avas  opened. 

The  Banl<  of  .Vusti-alasia  at  Drouin  w:»s  the  first  to  o})i'n  business  at 
Poowong,  sending  a  man  there  once  a  week.  In  1884  they  leased  a  building 
from  Mi-.  !>.  Oliaflcy.  suid  on  Xovembci"  4th  my  fadicr  started  putting  in  the 
countci'  and  fittings  I'oi-  l!ic  ncv  lirancli.  of  wliicli  Mr.  SwNcr  was  llic  Hi-st 
managci'. 

Prior  to  ilie  ei'i'ction  ol'  llie  .Vllienaeum.  darices  and  parlies  wei'c  held 
in  Mr.  P.  F.  Murphy's  capacious  barn  loft,  Avhich  had  a  good  hardwood 
flooi".  The  PooAvong  Cricket  Club  and  a  minstrel  troupe  loomed  u))  large  in 
the  social  life  of  the  settlement,  and  proA'ided  much  entertainment,  particu- 
larly for  the  younger  peo])le.  The  ci'ickete)"'s  ball  Avas'  an  annual  excnt.  and 
a  bachelor's  ])all  with  .i  rttinii  dance  was  a  i-egulai'  institution,  .\notlier 
f«>ature  of  the  social  life  of  tliosc  days  Avere  riding  parties  to  gatherings  and 
entei-taiTunents.  particularly  holiday  time,  church  tea-meetings  and  concerts 
in  outlying  distr-icts.  Sometimes  betAveen  20  and  HO  Avould  make  up  a  party 
to  go  to  an  entertainment  and  perhaps  a.ssi.st  Avith  the  programme  at  a  ]ilace 


174  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

10  or  15  miles  away.  Local  annual  picnics  were  a  distinct  feature,  and  each 
locality  had  its  annual  day.  I  attencled  the  first  picnic  "'down  south"  on  Xew 
Year's  Day  at  R.  J.  Fuller's  homestead.  Framlingham  Park,  Later,  an  annual 
picnic  was  held  at  JeetJio  at  Messrs.  Bennett  and  Hoskins",  and.  still  later,  one 
at  Moyarra.  On  Boxing  Day  an  annual  picnic,  which  for  some  twenty  years 
gathered  visitors  from  far  and  near,  was  held  at  !Mr.  E'.  Kelly's  farm  at 
Strzelecki,  and  one  peculiarity  of  it  was  that  for  many  years  in  succession 
visitors  were  treated  to  a  thunderstorm,  until  this  began  to  l^e  looked  upon 
as  part  of  the  programme.  Picnics  were  held  regularly  on  Easter  Monday  at 
Brydon's,  Kardella :  and  at  Fairbank,  and  at  Kardella  on  Xew  Year's  Day,  the 
Sunday  School  picnic  and  distribution  of  prizes  has  been  in  existence  for  a 
quarter  of  a  century. 

Banquets  were  somewhat  rare  in  the  Poowong  district,  3^et  it  so  happened 
that  two  were  tendered  to  local  residents  within  a  few  weeks,  one  to  Cr.  Chas. 
Mair,  J.P.,  on  October  31,  1890,  at  which  the  guest  was  presented  with  a  purse 
of  sovereigns  in  recognition  of  the  public  services  he  had  rendered  to  the 
district,  and  tlie  other  to  Mr.  James  Scott,  the  oldest  pioneer,  on  December  29 
of  the  same  year. 

Sheep  raising  in  the  scrub  country  was  for  many  j^ears  a  most  precarious 
business,  owing  to  the  wet  conditions,  which  made  foot-rot  so  ])revalent. 
and  to  the  ravages  of  the  dingoes,  but  in  spite  of  the  drawbacks 
there  A^ere  some  who  stuck  to  the  business  and  eventually  made  it  a  success. 
On  October  10,  1882.  1  packed  out  the  first  consignment  of  wool-packs  to  Mr. 
John  Glew,  who  was  the  first  to  introduce  sheej)  into  the  Jnml)unna  district, 
and  the  avooI  was  later  packed  out  in  bales  on  liorse1)ack.  1  also  assisted  in 
building  several  sheep  folds  for  settlers  who  were  ha\ing  losses  by  dingoes. 
Some  tried  tying  Ijells  on  some  of  the  sheep,  but  this  only  j^roved  a  tem- 
porary expedient,  as  the  dingoes  soon  got  used  to  the  sound  of  the  bells  and 
took  no  notice  of  them.  Baited  gin-traps  and  poison  were  also  tried,  and, 
finally,  sheepfolds  made  of  stub  fences  five  or  six  feet  high  were  built,  and  the 
sheep  folc'ed  every  night. 

In  September,  1883,  my  father,  brothers  and  I  took  a  contract  from  Mr. 
T.  Gannon  to  cut,  burn,  pick-u]:)  and  ring  50  acres  of  scrub  near  Bena — scrub 
cutting.  15/6  per  acre — picking-up.  12/6  per  acre — and  sai)-ringing.  2/6  per 
acre.  Ye  Gods!  think  of  '■nch  a  contract  tc-day.  wliei'  men  eariung  16/-  a 
day  will  strike  Avithout  a  personal  grieA-ance.  We  Avanted  Avork.  and  Ave  wanted 
money,  and  we  got  plenty  of  Avork  and  a  harA-est  of  experience,  if  Ave  did  nol5 
get  much  money;  and  I  Avill  say  this  of  both  labourer  and  contractor  in  Gi})ps- 
land :  it  Avas  a  rare  thing  for  a  contract  to  be  undertaken  and  not  satisfactorily 
completed.  AA'hether  it  took   eight  or  tAvelve  hours  dailv  to  make  a  fair  Avage. 

In  1883.  Government  surveyors  Avei'e  sent  to  the  district  to  find  a  route 
for  a  railAvay  from  Dandenong  to  Port  Albert,  (ireat  difliculty  was  ex^ 
perienced  in  crossing  the  Avatershed  betAveen  the  Bass  and  TarAvin  rivers, 
and  this  delayed  the  construction  of  the  line  for  several  years.  Local  amateur 
efforts  Avere  made  to  discoAer  a  suitable  I'oute.  and.  when  it  became  ]5robable 
that  a  more  southerly  route  would  be  selected,  the  Poo\\ong  residents  became 
much  keener  in  the  search.  On  September  9,  1883,  my  father.  Mr.  Geo.  Henry 
and  Mr.  Geo.  McCord  spent  a  day  searching  the  bush  through  the  properties 
of  Thos.  James,  F.  Cutts,  W.  Salmon  and  R.  KcAvish.  but  Avithout  success. 
On  January  5.  1SS5.  the  Avriter.  Avith  Geo.  Cook,  G.  Henry  and  Geo.  ^IcCord, 
spent  tAvo  days  traA'ersing  two  different  routes  from  PooAvong  to  Mr.  C.  Blew's 
(Whitelaw)  Avithout  finding  a  practicable  route.  When  the  Alsop  route 
was  adopted,  meetings  Avere  held  at   PooAvong  to  protest   against   the  line 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  V.o 

swinging  oil  from  Poowong,  and  a  deputation,  of  wliich  my  fatlier  was  a 
member,  waited  on  the  Minister  of  Kailwajs  on  September  IT,  1884,  but  witii- 
uut  succe.ss,  and  anutlier  deputation,  including  Ale.ssr.s.  K.  O.  Tiniin«,  T.  J.  Cover- 
dale  and  W.  F.  Salmon,  intervieAved  the  Minister  on  August  8,  1885,  but  they 
also  failed  to  get  the  line  diverted  to  Poowong.  While  obtaining  signatures  to 
a  petition  for  a  railway  to  the  district.  1  called  at  a  settler's  home  at  dinner 
time  and  asked  the  settler,  who  was  standing  at  the  door,  for  his  signature. 
He  answered  abrupth',  "No.  I  won't  sign  anything.  What's  it  about T'  I 
explained  the  object,  and  he  then  invited  me  in  to  dinner.  Afterwards  I  left 
with  the  signature,  but  the  old  gentleman  justified  the  statement  he  had  made, 
for  he  was  unable  to  write. 

My  father  had  applied  for  many  forfeited  blocks  of  land,  the  only  land 
available  locally  to   1884.  but   without  success,  although  he  attended  Land 
Boards  at  Warragul  and  Melbourne.     Eventually,  however,  he  applied  for 
land  abandoned  at  Korumburra  by  Mr.  Herbert  Howard.    It  originally  com- 
prised 320  acres,  but  the  Government  reserved  four  sections  of  20  acres  each 
for  village  settlements.     At  the  Land  Board  at  Warragul  my  father  was 
granted  130  acres.     HaAing  only  50  acres  at  Poowong,  we  decided  to  leave 
Poowong  and  settle  at  Korumburra.     There  was  a  dray  track  cleared  along 
McDonald'.-  Track  and  foi'    a  short    distance    alon^;    Whitelaw's    Track,    and 
from  this  the  only  means  of  transport  was  partly  by  sledfi,e  and  then  by  ])ack 
track.     Mr.  Matt.  Holland  when  clearing  his  property  had  brought  in  his 
belongings  on  a  l^ullock  dray,  which  was  pulled  up  short  at  the  end  of  the  dray 
track  in  the  middle  of  the  bush,  and  remained  there  for  years,  one  of  the  best 
known  mile  posts  on  Whitelaw's  Track.    On  our  first  going  out  to  cutscrul),  two 
of  us  Avalked  and  led  pack  horses  carrying  food,  bedding,  tent,  tools,  etc., 
and  a  hired  man.  a  young  German  named  Adolph,  walked,  and,  needless  to  say, 
it  rained  heavily.    We  Avere  overtaken  by  darkness,  and  I  won't  easily  forget 
that  first  night  "on  our  selection.''  with  a  wet  tent,  wet  blankets,  in  the  wet 
bush,  and  the  difficulty  we  had  in  finding  enough  dry  wood  in  the  dripping 
scrub  to  light  a  fire.    But  we  weie  used  to  such  experiences,  so  when  daylight 
appeared  we  made  our  way  to  Mr.  Nicholson's',  got  grazing  for  our  horses, 
cleared  a  patch  of  scrub  to  make  a  decent  camp,  and  soon  got  to  work  cutting 
scrub  by  day  and  making  the  ac(iuaiiitance  of  our  neighbours  by  night.    We 
cut  this  scrub  in  October.  188(),  and  the  diary  of  my  father  contains  the  follow- 
ing prospect  and  retrospect  on  the  following  New  Year's  Day:  ''During  the  past 
12  months  I  have  been  granted  120  acres  of  land  in  Korumburra,  2  miles  from 
the  proposed  terminus  of  the  (ireat  Southern  line.       We  have  cut  15  acres  of 
scrub  for  a  .start,  and  if  I  can  sell  my  ])resent  homestead,  we  shall  leave  Poo- 
wong this  year,  and  go  to  Korumburra,  where  1  presume  my  wanderings  on 
this  earth  will  see  a  terniinntion."       The  sequel  has  [u-oved  this  to  be  prophetic. 

AVe  arranged  willi  ;i  (■()ii>iii.  Harry  lioiiltei'.  a  briclvlayer.  who  had  al^o 
s'ome  knowledge  of  brickmaking.  to  burn  a  kiln  of  2t).000  l)ricks  on  the  land, 
and  bnild  a  house  Avith  them.  We  packed  the  matei-ial  for  a  piigmill.  barrows, 
covering  for  bricks,  etc.,  from  Poowong,  and  started  moulding  bricks  the 
first  week  in  March.  1887.  The  weathei-  proved  so  wet  that,  at  the  end  of  the 
month,  when  we  had  17.000  moulded,  Ave  decided  not  to  make  any  more,  as  it 
was  not  likely  Ave  could  get  them  dry  enough  to  put  in  the  kiln.  On  the  la.st 
Saturday  in  March  Ave  had  all  the  l)ricks  stacked  in  the  kiln  Avith  a  plentiful 
supply  of  wood,  and  it  was  arraiiged  that  Boultei-  and  my  brothei-  Ed.  Avere 
to  stay  and  take  turn  about  night  and  day  firing  the  kiln,  while  the  rest  of  us 
retui-ned  to  Poowong  until  the  following  Alonday.   The  Aveather  became  Avorse, 


176  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

heavy  rain  set  in,  and  on  Monday  morning-  Boulter  and  Ed.  arrived  in  Poo- 
wong  with  the  doleful  news  that  the  kiln  had  collapsed,  and  that  the  bricks 
were" boiled  instead  of  baked;  and  thus  our  dream  of  a  brick  house  ended  in 
smoke  and  steam.  Out  of  the  wreck,  however,  we  sorted  enough  bricks  to 
build  a  brick  kitchen,  which  is  still  a  standing  monument  to  a  huge  fiasco. 

In  1887  I  made  application  for  several  blocks  of  land  around  Poowong 
and  Jumbuima,  but  as'  there  were  other  applicants,  and  my  youth  told  against 
me.  I  was  not  successful.  Later,  my  brother  Edward  and  I  selected  land  in  the 
Mirboo  South  district.  My  block  consisted  of  160  acres  of  heavily-timbered 
blackbutt  country,  part  of  which  I  cleared,  but  afterwards  sold  the  lease  of  the 
land.  My  brother  gave  up  his  original  selection  and.  settled  on  a  block  on 
the  Foster  road,  Mirboo  South,  which  had  been  granted  to  my  mother.  Several 
of  the  family  still  live  there,  cind,  thus,  our  family  interests  for  over  thirty 
years  have  been  divided  between  Mirboo  and  Arawata. 

On  March  22.  1888,  a  meeting  was  held  at  the  Poowong  monthly  market 
with  the  object  of  forming  a  new  shire.  My  father  was  appointed  secretary, 
and  drew  up  a  petition  with  that  object.  This  was  the  preliminary  step  in  tlie 
formation  of  the  Poowong  and  Jeetho  shire,  though  the  formation  of  a  new 
shire  was  discussed  as  far  back  as  1878. 

Messrs.  James  Scotf  and  Sons,  of  The  Prioiy  Farm.  Poowong,  were  the 
first  to  launch  out  into  the  dairying  industry  on  an  extensive  scale,  and  the 
first  to  tackle  the  great  problem  that  has  always  confronted  the  South  Gipps- 
land  dairy  farmer — that  of  providing  a  clean  and  lasting  coAvyard.  As  there 
was  no  stone  near  at  hand,  they  carted  stone  from  an  outcrop  on  McDonald's 
Track  near  Cruikston,  a  distance  of  three  or  four  miles  along  a  very  rough 
draytrack.  Unfortunately,  the  stone  was  not  very  satisfactory,  though  a  great 
inprovement  on  the  mud  yard  previously  used. 

Our  family  has  been  dairying  continuously  since  188-t.  when  we  started  in 
a  small  way.  making  butter,  salting  and  storing  it  in  kegs  for  market.  When 
we  left  Poowong  we  had  28  cows,  and  the  first  Winter,  having  only  a  few  acres 
of  grass,  we  rented  fi'om  Mr.  Matt.  Holland  a  newly-sown  burn  on  which  all 
the  ))ig  timber  had  been  cut  down  to  make  the  paddock  safe  for  his  pure-bred 
milking  shorthorns.  The  feed  was  good,  but  we  lost  17  head  through  getting 
fast  among  the  logs,  or  stuck  in  eral)holes  in  the  gullies.  My  father  purchased 
from  Messrs.  Bartram  &  Son  the  first  vertical  cream  separator  in  our  district, 
and  acted  for  many  years  as  their  agent.  The  Fresh  Food  Co.  arranged  with  us 
to  cart  cream  along  the  one-chain  and  two-chain  roads  to  Kardella  station  at 
1/-  per  can,  and  this  arrangement  continued  until  the  Korumburra  Co- 
operative Butter  Factory  opened  in  August.  1900.  Our  last  trip  with  the 
cream  waggon  was  W'ith  four  horses  and  one  can  of  cream,  which,  with  three 
others,  was  the  firsi:  cream  churned  in  the  new  factory.  The  last  mile  or  so  of 
the  road  to  the  station  was  almost  all  downhill,  and  was  in  Winter  and  Spring 
just  a  smooth-surfaced  mud  canal.  The  sledoe  would  float  on  the  surface,  sending 
out  waves  of  mud  on  each  side  as  it  progressed,  and  the  mud  oozed  up  between 
the  planks  of  the  decking.  It  was  all  plain  sailing  until  the  runner  of  the 
sledge  struck  an  underground  root  or  stum]),  when  the  driver  stood  a  good 
chance  of  being  precipitated  head  foremost  into  the  liquid  ooze. 

Although  the  rainfall  in  this  part  of  South  Gippsland  from  1877  to  1893 
was  much  heavier  than  in  latx^r  years,  it  is  remarkable  thar  there  Avas.  during 
that  period,  no  fall  of  snow  sufficiently  heavy  to  Avhiten  tiie  ground:  so  the 
AA'hole  po])ulation  Avas  surprised  on  Monday.  July  21,  1895.  to  find  the  Avhole 
face  of  the  country  covered  Avith  a  mantle  of  Avhite.  The  snow  continued  to 
fall  until  midday,  and  by  that  time  the  tops  of  the  highest  hills  Avere  covered  to 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPErJENCES. 


••STT't'K     I.N     TIIK     .MID. 


a  depth  of  two  feet.  Being  midwinter,  the  snow  did  not  thaAv  readily,  and 
lay  about  witii  little  change  until  the  following  Thursday,  and  in  sheltered 
spots  it  lasted  for  ten  days.  It  caused  great  devastation  in  the  forest  through 
the  unusual  weight  of  tiie  snow  upon  the  foliage  tearing  off  large  branches 
and  even  uprooting  some  of  the  scrub  trees.  Another  heavy  fall  of  snow 
occurred  on  August  20,  1905.  There  was  over  a  foot  on  the  higher  points 
on  this  occasion,  and  eight  weeks  later,  in  October,  there  was  another  fall 
of  several  inches.  There  have  been  several  small  falls  since,  but  only  on  the 
higher  elevations. 

While  iho  bulk  nf  the  disaliilitics  and  hardships  of  ihc  (ii|)p>laii(l  |>i(incci> 
has  arisen  from  the  rainfall  and  its  effect  upon  the  conditions  under  which 
they  worked,  3^et  there  is  no  more  thrilling  page  in  the  history  of  the  settle- 
ment than  tliat  of  the  bush  fires  which  occurred  from  DccciuIxt  '24.  iSilT.  to 
February  27,  1898. 

Diarv  Notes.— "On  the  31st  December  a  fire  started  ea?t  •.!  our  place, 
caught  a  log  fence  (>n  an  adjoining  proi)ei'ty,  and  then  caught  a  cliock  and  log 
fence  around  a  grass-s'eed  paddock  of  ours,  which  it  burned  out.  A  slight 
thunderstorm  during  the  night  arrested  the  progress  of  the  fire,  but  trees 
were  l)lazing  and  falling  all  night  long.  Maize,  oat  and  potato  cr()i)s  were 
failures,  owing  to  the  long  sjiell  of  hot  weather.  Fruit  trees  failed  fi-om  the 
same  cause;  grasshoppers  and  caterpillars  devoured  what  little  grass  there 
was  and  dotivAcd  the  vegetable  gardens.  January  IT. — ''Still  feai-fiilly  hot, 
and  no  sign  of  rain.  Terrible  fires  at  Neerim,  Thcu-pdale,  Ti-aralgon.  .  .  .  and 
general  devastation  in  Gippsland,  but  so  far  we  have  esca])ed  with  the  loss  of 
some  fencing  and  some  grass  hay.'"  January  28. — "Water  ran  out  at  home- 
stead, and  bad  to  -ink  in  j)addoc"k."  I^'ebiaiarv  1.— "Tlii>^  has  been  a  fearfid 
night  and  day,  fires  everywhere.  Edward's  wife  has  had  a  terrible  experience, 
her  first  child  was  born  this  morning  at  4.30,  and  all  night  the  house  was  in 


17^  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

imminent  danger  of  l)nrning;  trees  alight,  and  showering  sparks  over  the 
homestead  and  outbuihiings."'    All  day  the  fire  raged  north  of  lis,  but  a  strong 
east  wind  kept  the  full  force  away  from  us,  but  it  swept  through  Messrs. 
Eitehie's  property,  burning  grass,  fences,  and  a  large  milking  shed,  though 
they  managed  to  save  the  homestead.     Mr.  T.  Rowe  and  Mr.  Raines  lost 
houses,  sheds,  machinery,  vehicles,  cows,  pigs,  sheep   and   fowls,   and  Mr. 
Eaines'  life  was  only  saved  by  the  efforts  of  his  family.    Mr.  F.  Kelly's  herd 
of  cows  was  caught  in  a  death  trap  and  burned  to  death.     Mr.  Geo.  Kowe*s 
haystack  and  sheds  are  gone,  but  the  house  is  still  standing.    February  2. — All 
hands,  including  the  girls,  have  been  watching  and  beating  out  fires  all  night. 
A  strong  east  Avind  ha.-  been  blowing  until  daylight,  and  all  over  Kardella  is 
ablaze.     Yesterday's  beating  has  checked  the  fire  from  Ritchie's  side,  but 
to-day  it  is  making  headAvay  through  AVestern's.  so  I  am  getting  the  separator 
unscrewed  in  case  of  emergency.     106  at  noon :  had  to  put  cans  of  cream  in 
Avater.  unable  to  deliver  at  Kardella  on  account  of  fires.    AVind  di'opped  to- 
Avards  evening,  and  the  fires  in  Western's  and  TAvyford's.  AAhere  the  most 
danger  Avas.  steadied  doAvn,  and  all  hands  AAere  able  to  get  a  good  night's  rest, 
AA-hich  was  much  needed,  as  some  Avere  completely  knocked-up  Avith  the  heat 
and  smoke,  and  night  and  daA^  Avatching  and  beating  out.    February  3. — Wind 
calm,  temperature  more  moderate,  but  dense  smoke  everyAvhere;    boys    cut 
down  several  large,  dry  trees  that  might  catch  fire  near  house  and  shed: 
Avatching  and  beating  out  fires  in  our  paddocks.    Still  Aery  anxious  on  account 
of    fires.       FebiTiary  4. — Day    commenced    hot.    Avith  strong    Avesterly  Avind. 
At     1    p.m.    all    Aeschliinann's    Avas    ablaze,    and    ])Ositi()n    now    so    serious 
that  Ave  sent  Mabel  on  horseback  to  Korumburra  for  assistance,  but  the  fires 
were  all  over  the  district,  and  everyone  aaIio  could  had  gone  out.     The  ex- 
cessiAc  heat  continued  until  4  o'clock  next  morning.     A  belt  of  fire  a  mile 
wide  raged  AA'ithin  40  chains  of  the  house;  there  are  small  fires  in  our  paddocks, 
but  Ave  have  kept  them  in  check.     February  5. — Wind  changed  to  the  west, 
and  the  fire  has  got  out  of  control  in  our  lf>-acre  paddock,  so  Ave  have  had  to 
abandon  that  side  of  the  gully,  and  try  to  hold  the  fire  from  coming  up  the  hill 
toAA-ards  the  house.     Sunday.  F'el)ruary  6. — Cool,  and  fires  dying  down;  no 
Avatching.    Monday.  Fel)niarv  7. — Getting  hot  again.  DS.  and  very  close.  Tues- 
day. February  8. — Very  hot  at  1  p.m.    The  fires  got  into  our  grass-seed  paddock 
and  burned  all  the  seed  and  fences  as  well  as  pines  and  oaks.  then,  crossing  the 
road,  it  sAvepi  up  toAvards  the  house.     Big  trees  caught  alight,  scattering 
showers  of  sparks  across  the  house  and  orchard.     The  Avhole  place  is  now 
in  imminent  danger,  as  it  is  impossible  to  Avork  against  the  Avind.     We,  and 
some  neighbours,  making  15  in  all.  lieating  continually.    At  "2  p.m.  we  removed 
all  portable  things  of  value  from  the  house,  and  coA-ered  them  in  the  garden 
with  Avet  blankets.  Avhich  aac  ke]3t  sprinkled  Avith  Avater  by  a  Avatering  can. 
An  old  log  dairy  caught  fire  dozens  of  times',  but  Avas  saved  by  a  spray  pump 
and  buckets  of  water.    Once  Fanny  got  inside  the  house,  only  just  in  time  to 
pull  doAvn  some  burning  curtains.     At  midnight  the  oat  stubble  north  of  the 
house  caught  alight  from  a  tall,  burning  tree,  and  Avas  completely  swept,  as 
well  as  the  orchard,  haystack  and  small  plantation.     There  Avas  not  an  inch 
that  Avas  free  from  shoA^ers  of  sparks  driven  by  the  AAind  from  the  blazing 
trees  alight  from  root  to  to])most  branch.     Like  last  Tuesday,  it  Avas  almost 
dark  at  4  o'clock;  through  the  black  pall  of  smoke  the  fires  appeared  a  liAnd 
blue,  giving  everything  a  Aveird  and  unearthly  appearance:  the  sun  looked 
like  a  big  copper  ball  through  a  red-black  smoke  haze.     All  night  18  of  us 
battled  with  the  element,  and  most  of  the  Avorkers  Avere  at  last  imable  to  see : 
some  were  totally  blind,  but  all  Avere  afi'ected  more  or  less,  but  fortunately 
the  gi'eatest  danger  was  passed.     The  Avind  changed  to  the  east  with  heavy 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  179 

clouds  and  sprijikli'g  rain,  ^^aturday.  February  12.— "Thank  God  I  AA'e  have 
saved  our  horses  atid  stock.  Our  cattle,  horses,  sheep  and  pigs  are  like  other 
people's.  evei-vA\  here :  no  fences,  crops  all  gone,  no  grass,  and  still  no  sign  of 
the  much-needed  rain;  we  had  a  little  maize,  but  as  tiie  fences  got  burned, 
the  btock  have  cleaued  it  up;  a  hundred  chains  of  fencing  must  be  got  up 
at  once.  The  prospect  for  the  Winter,  particularly  for  stock,  is  worse  than 
gloomy,  but.  thank  goodness  I  the  Government  is  ottering  to  assist  with  fodder, 
wire,  and  grass  seed" — and  a  last  reference  to  the  diary  shows  that  from 
February  llth  to  the  20th  Avas  fairly  c(,»ol,  but  again,  on  the  22nd,  the  tem- 
perature rose  to  100  and  over  every  day  f(jr  a  week.  but.  fortunately,  the  Kres 
had  burned  themselves  out,  and  South  (jippsland  for  the  most  part  was' 
blank  desolation,  at  any  rate  in  appearance,  and  those  who  had  regained  their 
eyesight  were  busily  enaaged  in  fencing,  and  hunting  up  their  stray  stock, 
some  of  Avhich  were  not  recovered  for  months,  and  others  never  found. 

Dia-ing  the  construction  of  the  raih\ay  line  from  Dandenong  to  Port 
Albert,  a  l)risk  trade  was  carried  on  by  farmers  li\ing  close  to  the  line  in 
butter,  meat  and  vegetables,  and  prices  showed  a  big  margin  of  profit,  com- 
pared with  the  wholesale  prices  previously  obtained.  Then,  when  the  line  was 
completed,  the  opening  up  of  the  coal  mines  created  a  good  local  demand  for 
]3roduce.  The  three  main  roads  into  Korumlnirra  were  Whitelaw's  track  and 
the  Jumbunna  and  Kardella  roads,  and  it  is  hard  to  say  which  was  the  best 
or  worst.  The  Kardella  road  followed  the  railway  line  for  some  distance,  and 
in  clearing  the  railway  line  the  trees  had  been  felled  into  the  scrub,  and  the 
track  was  swampy,  boggy  and  crabholey.  and  wound  in  and  out  and  round 
stumps  and  logs.  The  traliic  an<l  loghaidng  of  four  sawmills  working  at 
Kardella  made  a  bad  track  ten  times  worse,  and  in  Winter  it  was  absolutely 
impassable  for  vehicles.  Ti  \a  as  the  custom  for  several  years  for  Kardella 
i-esidents  during  the  Winter  months  to  tie  their  horses  up  at  the  station  and 
walk  the  three  miles  to  Korumburra  along  the  sleepers,  carrying  poultry,  butter 
and  other  produce  on  their  backs,  rather  than  face  the  road.  For  many 
years  iive  or  six  of  my  brothers  and  sisters,  my  wife  and  1.  as.sisted  as  an 
amateur  orchestra  at  entertainments  in  Korumburra  and  the  surrounding  dis- 
tricts, and  often,  we  have  carried  our  instruments,  including  a  big  "bass."  from 
Kardella  to  Koruniliurra.  On  one  occasion,  when  Kardella  was  i)opulated 
by  a  iniinl)er  of  siiwmilling  hands,  we  had  tied  up  si.x  horses  at  the  station  and 
walked  to  Koiiiinimri'a.  On  oni'  return  we  foiuid  that  someone  had  mixed 
things  up.  saddles  re\  ci'mmI  and  changed  and  stii'rui)s  i-enioved.  etc..  and  as  it 
was  pitcli  dark,  and  we  had  no  matches,  it  took  a  long  lime  to  straighten 
things  lip.  My  brother  could  not  Hnd  his  leggings,  which  were  stiapped  to 
his  saddle,  and  finally  went  home  without  them.  Xext  morning,  when  he  went 
to  catch  his  horse,  he  Avas  mncli  siu'pi'ised  to  find  the  hoggings  liad  Itcen  securely 
Suckled  on  its  front  legs. 

A  thing  which  astonished  the  settlers  was  extraordina  vy  lengt  h  of  I  he  worms 
found  in  tiie  flat  ami  swam|,»v  conntry.  I  ha\('  measui-ed  one  of  I  hoe  ■"candle 
worms"  whicli  extended  to  a  length  of  nine  feel.  ()ccasionally  1  ha\('  found 
their  eggs — something  liK'e  a  ciu-ysalis.  amber  coloured  and  t ransj)arenr.  from 
two  to  three  inches  in  length,  and  sometimes  containing  an  embryo  woi-m 
several  inches  in  length,  in  a  ()Mantily  of  llni.l.  1  once  foinid  a  laughing 
jackass  which  had  died  of  --1  rangiihit ion  while  living  to  swallow  one  of  these 
worms.  It  had  succeeded  in  swallowing  part  of  the  worm,  and  then,  while  en- 
deavoui'ing  to  bi-eak  or  shake  oH'  the  balance,  the  woi-m  got  twisted  round  its 
neck,  and  excntiially  caused  the  bii'd's  death.  (  )ii  another  occasion.  T  had 
inieai'tlie(|  a  ])ai't  icnlai'l  v  laru'e  witrm  and  cut   it   in  two.     I   put   the  two  hahes 


ISd  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

in  a  bucket,  and  not  long;  afterwards  a  lively  cackling  arrested  my  attention. 
A  jackass  had  taken  possession  of  one  half  of  the  worm  and  swallowed  part 
of  it.  and  his  mate  had  taken  hold  of  the  protruding  portion,  and  both  were  en- 
gaged in  a  tug-of-war,  tugging  and  screaming  and  flapping  their  wings.  It 
wa^some  rime  before  the  worm  parted,  and  1  don't  know  who  laughed  most, 
but  I  belicAe  we  beat  the  "•jacks'*  at  their  OAvn  game. 

In  finishing  this  retrospect,  covering  just  40  years  of  Gippsland  experi- 
ences, the  writer  may  be  pardoned  for  placing  on  record  his  firm  belief  that  the 
province  of  South  Gippsland,  Avhich  has  been  added  to  the  State  of  Victoria 
by  the  indomitable  courage  and  endurarice  of  the  pioneers,  will  in  the  future 
play  a  still  more  inportant  part  in  the  history  of  the  State.  A  Xew  Zealander 
by  birth,  the  writer  has  also  had  a  glimpse  of  Tasmania,  crossed  South  Aus- 
tralia twice,  made  four  trips  to  Queensland,  and  travelled  over  much  of  the 
northern  State  with  cattle,  chiefly  from  Rockhampton  out  w^est,  and  through 
the  famous  Darling  DoAvns,  doA^n  through  Xew  South  Wales:  and  has  also 
made  three  trips  to  AVest  Australia,  as  well  as  o^er  most  of  Victoria;  yet,  with 
all  South  Gippsland's  faults — rain,  mud,  and  bad  roads — I  love  her  still. 
Yes  I  in  preference  to  any  and  all  other  parts  of  Australia  that  I  have  seen. 
Early  associations  naturally  cause  strong  attachments,  but  the  qualit}'  of  the 
soil,  and  strongest  of  all  other  considerations,  the  unfailing  rainfall,  has 
always,  in  my  estimation,  placed  South  (jippsland  as  pre-eminently  one  of  the 
most  reliable  districts  for  agricultural  and  pastoral  pursuits. 

The  quarter  to  half  a  century  forming  the  transition  stage  from  primeval 
forest  to  farm  homesteads  has  in  other  lands,  such  as  Canada,  produced  Avriters 
in  prose  and  verse  such  as  AVill  Carleton's  farm  ballads  and  Ralph  Connor's 
splendid  tales  of  the  Canadian  backwoodsmen:  yet  it  is  not  for  lack  of  either 
incident,  patlios.  tragedy  or  co)iiedy  that  the  ))ioneering  of  Gippsland  has  not 
found  expression  in  literature.  ]Many  of  the  old  Gippsland  pioneers  were  the 
exact  prototypes  of  the  tine  characters  ])orti-ayed  by  Ralph  Connor,  and  the 
great  problems  of  the  Gippsland  bush,  which  Avere  in  many  respects  similar  to 
those  of  Canada,  except  that  the  distance  from  civilisation  was  not  so  great, 
only  served  to  develop  the  fine  characteristics  in  these  men  who  had  come 
from  the  most  highly  civilised  parts  of  the  British  Empire  to  the  very 
farthest  outpost  and  faced  the  almost  insuperable  difhculties  of  transforming, 
in  a  new  country,  "a  howling  wilderness"  into  a  smiling  cornfield — a  trans- 
formation Avhich.  in  Gip]:)sland.  lias  l)een  literally  accomplished. 


The  Lyrebird  in  South  Gippsland. 


MR.  L.  C.  COOK. 


The  Lyre  Bird  i^  so  called  because  the  male  bird's 
tail  feathers  take  the  form  of  a  lyre,  an  ancient  nnisi- 
cal  instrument  used  by  the  Egyptians,  Assyrians 
and  others.  This  bird,  in  common  ^vith  the  Bird  of 
Paradise  and  other  gorgeously  clad  feathered 
beauties,  is  much  sought  for  his  beautiful  feathers. 
The  male  bird  only  is  of  value  in  this  respect,  and 
nature  has  in  consequence  made  him  far  more  shy 
than  his  consorts  (for  he  generally  has  several  hens 
associated  Avitli  him)  ;  indeed,  a  more  difficult  bird 
to  see  it  avouIcI  be  hard  to  find.  You  hear  him 
whistling  away  merrily,  and  can  generally  approach 
almost  within  sight  of  him:  he  continues  whistling, 
and  just  as  you  think  you  cannot  fail  to  see  him  this 
time  there  is  silence  and  he  is  gone:  and  this  is  re- 
peated till  you  cry  enougli  and  you  return  home 
wondering  what  he  is  like. 

It  seems  incredible  that  such  a  large  bird,  handi- 
cap])ed  as  he  is  with  such  a  heavily  feathered  tail, 
can  conceal  himself  so  well  and  so  quickly. 

He  is  justly  claimed  to  be  the  Champion  Mocking  Bird  of  the  World, 
and  he  well  sustains  that  claim,  and  as  time  goes  on  even  adds  to  his  ivputa- 
tion.  if  that  is  possible,  for  an  ornithologist  friend  of  mine  recently  claimed 
that  the  bird  is  reproducing  the  sound  of  the  mot(n'  horn  as  well  as  the  train 
whistle. 

He  is  a  past  master  in  imitating  the  birds  around  him:  the  crack  of  the 
coachwhip  bird,  the  melodious  note  of  the  male  satin  bower  bird,- the  anvil 
ringing  like  note  of  the  bell  magpie  (locally  called  jay  or  black  mag|ne). 
and  he  can  faithfully  imitate  the  simultaneous  whistling  of  a  whole  tlock  of 
parakeets. 

The  fact  that  this  inimitable  mimic  still  reproduces  the  notes  of  birds 
that  have  long  since  left  his  locality  leads  to  the  supposition  that  the  young 
male  imitates  his  parent's  i-e])ertoire.  which  is  natui'al  and  pleasant,  and  i-e- 
minds  us  of  the  old  days  Avhen  we  heai  our  beautiful  mimic  imitating  calls 
that,  e.xcepling  his  rejiroduclion.  liave  not  been  heard  an\  where  near  lii> 
vicinity  for  many  years.  It  justifies  us  in  seriously  consi  1 'ring  the  possi- 
bility that  the  notes  we  call  the  lyre  l)ird's  own  may,  after  all.  not  be  his  own. 
but  in.stead  be  the  notes  of  birds  of  an  extinct  species. 

It  would  be  diflicult  to  imagine  a  rnoi'e  ti'ving  call  to  i-eproduce  than  that 
of  the  wattle  bird,  a  harsher  one  than  the  giating  sound  (like  a  laisty  hinge 
being  turned)  of  the  gang  gang  cockatoo,  a  sweeter  than  the  trill  of  the 
harmonious  thrush,  or  some  of  the  white-backed  magjiies'  notes,  and  many 
the  smaller  birds  such  as  the  sericoi-nis  and  ditferent  wrens:  vet  the  Ivre  bij-d 


i 


^  ^  ?"■  ^  '^■ 


aj  -  - 


O    4^  r   x  ^ 


^  a  *-  j=  c  c:  3    - 


J3     -  ^   ? 


■  --4  ^  i  0-       bi  -g    " 
'  —  s      -^-  jj  ~  .fi  ^ 


"''c  =  ^-^'^"'l"'^Si 


-  "  -^  -  ^  ^  =^-  a.  >  *«  o  a  *^ 
i  'S  i'  c  5  'S  "  "S  :if  "H  °  ^    C 


"*■  x"x_5  -"2  ^  5"^"""? 


THE     LYREBIRD     IN     SOUTH     GIPPSLAND.  183 

apparentlv  finds  ik*  difliciiltv  with  any  notes,  sweet,  liarsii,  guttural,  melodious 
as  they  may  be:  with  wonderful  power  and  exquisite  taste  in  modulation  he 
passes  from  one  to  the  other  with  interludes  of  notes  we  call  his  own.  and 
those  Avho  have  been  pi-ivileoed  to  hear  him  at  his  best,  as  in  Jmie  and  July, 
a^rree  that  the  lyre  bird,  as  a  mimic,  and  as  a  producer  of  a  pure  melody,  is 
without  a  peer  in  any  part  of  the  world. 

The  hen  bird  can  also  imitate  a  little,  especially  the  simple  notes  of  the 
magpie  and  others  of  a  similar  class,  but  in  a  very  subdued  way,  and  can  only 
be  heard  a  few  yards  away,  while  the  male  bird's  notes  in  suitable  country  can 
be  heard  a  mile  away. 

The  hen  is  comparatively  tame,  and  only  lays  one  egg,  though  occasionally 
two  haA'e  been  found  in  a  nest  (the  second  one  most  probably  being  laid  by 
another  hen),  and  the  egg  takes  a  long  time  to  incubate.  They  do  not  vary 
greatly  in  colour.  Mr.  A.  .1.  Cam]:)bell  describes  them:  Colour  varies  from 
light  to  very  dark  ]im'iolisli  grey,  largelv  blotched  more  or  less,  with  dark 
brown  or  sepia  and  dull  purplish  slate. 

The  majority  of  nests  are  now  found  off  the  ground,  a  favourite  site 
being  the  top  of  an  old  stump.  The  nests  are  vei-y  large,  and  built  of  sticks, 
and  "artfully  concealed  and  lined  inside  and  beautifully  iinished  off  with 
rootlets,  especially  those  of  tree  ferns.  In  the  old  days  most  of  the  nests  were 
built  on  the  ground,  but  since  the  advent  of  the  fox,  by  far  the  greater  number 
choose  a  leaning  tree,  top  of  hollow  stump,  top  of  tree  fern,  uprooted  trees, 
etc.  The  hen  sits  on  its  young  for  an  incredibly  long  time  after  it  is  hatched, 
and  when  the  latter  does  leave  the  nest  it  is  neai'ly  as  big  ;U5  its  mother.  They 
perch  at  night  in  the  tops  of  the  highest  trees,  and  can,  when  they  like,  fiy  very 
much  better  tlian  thev  are  credited  Avith  being  able  to,  but  rarel\  fly  when 
they  can  gain  the  same  end  by  I'unniiig  oi-  springing. 

The  male  bird  Avorks  up  a  dancing  mound  in  the  courting  season,  upon 
which  he  dances  when  going  through  his  mocking  to  the  a])pai'ent  admiration 
of  the  hens.  This  mound  resembles  a  miniature  garden  bed.  nicely  rounded 
upon  top  and  an  average  size  of  an  ordinary  round  table. 

Xo  Zoo  ill  ilie  world  has  been  able  to  keep  a  lyre  bird,  and  it  is  cruelly  to 
try.  I  ha\('  had  many  re(|uests  for  them,  bul  always  refuse,  as  they  are  birds 
of"  the  bush,  and  we  "all  think  so  nnicli  of  thiMU  that  the  thought  of  ihe^r 
sufl'ei'inir  in  captivity-  is  nnciidiirahle  to  us. 

Xot  \('i-v  far  from  my  home  is  a  little  rescrxc  of  native  scrub  thoughtfully 
pui-chased  and  retained  as  a  beauty  spot  by  the  late  Mr.  (ieo.  Stevenson,  of 
Meiboiu-ne.  It  courains  about  five  acres  of  \  iigin  scrub,  and  as  it  is  situated 
right  in  a  basin  with  hills  on  every  side,  has  escaped  every  bush  fire.  This 
i-eserve  lias  foi  many  years  iiad  my  s|iecial  attention  in  the  way  of  protecting 
the  birds,  and  it  now  contains  11  lyi-e  birds  and  several  satin  bower  birds, 
Avhich  every  year  build  their  bower  or  playground  and  also  nest  thei-e.  as  does 
the  gang  gaiig  cockatoo,  a  'nird  whose  egg  is  practically  unknown  to  science. 
The  lyre  birds  in  this  .scrub  are  ea-ily  studied,  and  manv  htindred  visits  have 
I  j)ai(l  to  their  haunts  by  day  and  by  niirht.  for  theii-  habits  of  roosting  are 
verv  intei'esting  and  well  worth  watching.  One  hen  bird  last  year  let  a 
lady  friend  sti-oke  its  head  with  my  walking  stick  when  we  were  near  her  nest, 
and  anotlier  time  foll(-w<'d  us  to  tl.«e  vdgi'  of  the  scrub,  and  on  one  occasion, 
while  concealed  watching  for'  the  satin  bird  to  come  and  ])lay  on  his  bower, 
the   vouuLl"  Hvre  bird    in-t    from   the   iif'--t    discovered   me.  and   on   calling  in   a 


IN4 


THE     LYREBIRD     IN     SOUTH     GIPPSLAND. 


peculiar  way  hroutrht  her  mother  to  her.  As  I  kept  quite  still  they  watched 
nie:  then  the  mother  bird  emitted  the  same  call,  which  was  promptly  an- 
swered, and  witliin  (juarter  of  an  h(mr  eleven  lyre  birds  AAere  around  me,  none 
of  them  further  away  than  '20  feet,  and  hissing  at  me  till  my  head  ached. 
I  had  some  cast  oH'  feathers  in  my  hat.  and  was  reclining  on  the  ground,  and 
this  mav  account  for  the  peculiar  way  the  birds  acted. 

As  the  hre  birds  arc  becoming  so  very  rare,  and  are  so  endeared  to  the 
hearts  of  (ripps'landers,  I  would  like  to  take  this  opportunity  of  entreating 
landholders  to  spare  tliem  a  little  shelter,  for  since  the  advent  of  the  rabbit 
very  little  cover  is  being  left  for  this  most  interesting  and  gifted  bird. 


MAi.K   i.vim;i;ii;i.  <i.\   i..\.\(i.\(;   Morxn. 


LYKKl'.lKDS     MOST 


Surveying    Recollections. 

MR.  J.  LARDNER. 

It  ^^  ill  be  remembered  that  settlement  in  that  part 

of  tlie  country  here  referred  to  connnenc-ed  after  the 

passing  of  the  "Land  Act  18()9,"  Avhich  provided 

for  "free  selection  before  survey."'  limit  ins:  the  area 

to  320  acres.     The  first  place  that  attracted  notice 

was'  at  Brandy  Creek,  on  the  main  Gippsland  road, 

65  miles  from  Melbourne,  and  the  first  person    to 

lapplv     for     a     selection     was     the     late     Mr.     -lohn 

Iv.MLicrs.  in  1870.  who  went  from  Cluircliill   Island,  in 

A\' ester  nport. 

I  may  mention  here  that  an  area  of  about  5000 
acres  Was  surveyed  in  suitable  sized  blocks  by  Mr. 
Cr.Uanan,  late  Surveyor-General,  about  the  year 
1S()5,  around  Brandy  Creek,  and  Mr.  Rogers  was 
the  first  to  select  a  block,  as  before  stated,  in  1870. 
Such  was  the  density  of  the  scrub  and  timber  that 
the  general  opinion  was  that  the  land  could  never 
be  cleared  or  made  fit  for  settlement,  but  between 
1870  and  1873  every  block  of  the  area  surveyed 
was  taken  up  and  mostly  occupied,  and  clearing  carried  on  in  the  manner 
you  are  all  familiar  with,  viz..  scrubcutting.  burning  off  and  sowing  down 
with  grasses,  etc.,  on  the  ashes  after  the  burn.  In  tlie  beginning  of  1873  I 
went  to  Brandy  Creek  to  survey  several  selections  that  were  applied  for  in 
the  unsurveved* country,  and  remained  there  until  1  had  cut  u])  about  10.000 
acres  during  that  vear.  Selectors  were  then  coming  to  Brandy  Creek  from 
all  parts  of  the  colonv.  but  such  Avas  the  density  of  the  forest  and  scrub, 
and  no  tracks  of  any  kind  away  fiom  the  main  road,  that  no  one  would  ven- 
ture into  the  forest  without  a  guide,  and  as  it  was  necessary  under  the 
regulations  to  personally  peg  out  blocks,  guides  were  employed  to  ''show" 
blocks  and  pe«r  them  out.  and  bring  the  selectors  back  safe  to  the  only  little 
accommodation  place  at  Brandy  Creek,  known  as  the  "Bungalow  in  the 
JunLde,"  kept  by  Mr.  Jimmy  Hann.  The  guides  charged  from  tlO  to  £15  for 
each  block  shown. 

I  have  dealt  at  some  length  with  this  locality,  but  as  it  was  the  first 
place  where  the  experiment  was  nuide  in  clearing  den.se  scrub  land  and  tinn- 
ing it  to  profitable  account,  I  considered  the  matter  of  some  importance.  I 
will  now  say  L'ood-bye  to  Brandy  Creek  for  about  f(»ur  years.  During  that 
time  selection  went  "on  rapidly,  the  survey  of  the  Main  Gippsland  Kadway 
was  comi)lcte(l.  contracts  were  let  and  works  were  under  construction.  I 
returnt'd  to  (iippsland  in  May,  1^77,  to  survey  the  new  townships  along  the 
line  between  Bimyip  and  Moe.  and  surveyed  several  roads  leading  to  lailway 
stations.  In  the  "beginning  of  1880  I  shifted  part  of  my  camp  from  Droum 
to  Poowong  to  survey  roads  required  in  the  parishes  of  Jeetho,  Jumbunna 
East,  etc.  1  have  pleasant  and  grateful  rememln-ances  of  the  kmdness  and 
.fissistancc  accorded  to  me  bv  ^onic  of  the  early  settlers  there  in  placnig  pack- 


SURVEYING     RECOLLECTIONS.  187 

horses  at  my  disposal  for  shifting  camp,  etc..  free  of  charge.  My  first  camp 
was  pitched  on  Mr.  E.  C.  Hohnes"  (or  Miss  Holmes*)  block,  and  Ve  obtained 
our  supplies  from  Scott's  store,  on  ^McDonald's  Track.  Poowong.  The  first 
road  which  I  surveyed  started  from  McDonald's  Track,  at  Poowong.  and 
followed  generally  a  pack  trade  which  had  been  cleared  south  and  south-east 
after  crossing  the  Bass  River,  through  the  selections  of  Messrs.  Henry, 
McCord.  Holmes.  Ireland.  Hosking.  Fuller,  Blew  and  Hewitt  to  the 
boundary  of  the  parish.  Some  branch  roads  were  afterwards  surveyed  along 
pack  tracks  leading  to  the  several  selections,  and  in  some  cases  the  locations 
of  the  roads  were  approximately  fixed  by  blazed  lines  selected  and  explored 
by  those  already  on  the  land  who  had  an  opportunity  of  knowing  the  country. 

The  next  most  important  road  surveyed  started  from  a  point  at  Blew's 
(now  Whitelaw  station),  passing  through  what  are  now  the  townships  of 
Jumbunna  and  Outtrim.  crossing  the  Powlett  River,  thence  across  the  plains, 
to  Andei'son's  Inlet  (Inverloch).  This  road  also  followed  a  pack  track 
approximately,  and  passed  over  the  top  of  McLeod's  Hill,  but  a  few  years 
later,  when  the  country  got  cleared.  I  made  an  important  deviation  to  the  east 
of  the  hill,  which  reduced  the  grades,  which  were  very  steep  in  the  fir^ 
survey.  Another  road  which  I  surveyed  later  started  from  a  point  between 
Jumbunna  and  Outtrim.  passing  through  ^Nloyarra  and  Kongwak.  southerly, 
and  crossing  the  Powlett  River  at  Tulloch's.  and  thence  south-easterly  across 
the  plains  to  Anderson's  Inlet.  I  need  hardly  say  that  the  object  of  these  roads 
was  to  afford  ingress  and  egress  to  those  who  had  settled  on  the  land,  and 
great  credit  was  due  to  those  pioneers  Avho  went  into  this  unknown  forest 
country  and  had  not  only  to  ca^rve  out  a  spot  for  a  first  home,  but  had  to 
exj^lore  and  find  the  best  means  of  getting  to  and  fi*om  the  land,  clearing  it 
of  its  dense  crop  of  timber  and  scrub,  and  making  it  fit  for  settlement.  The 
physical  featuies  of  the  country  were  generally  bi-oken  and  hilly,  but  not 
mountainous.  I  foj-med  a  very  high  opinion  of  the  country,  judging  by  the 
clearings  made  up  to  that  time,  but  I  never  anticipated  the  magnificent 
development  that  took  place  during  the  fourteen  3'ears  I  was  absent  from 
the  district,  nor  the  further  great  improveiiieiils  made  since  returning  in 
1904.  and  T  certain  I  v  look  u])on  the  disti-ict  now  as  second  to  none  in  the 
State. 

]  might  conclude  my  remarks  l>y  a  short  descrijition  of  the  timber  and 
scrub  on  the  land  as  I  saw  it.  The  timlx'i-  south  of  McDonald's  Track  con- 
sisted principally  of  "bhiegum."*  with  |)a((lH'>  of  blackwood  in  some  places. 
The  trees  were  of  no  great  height  compared  with  what  we  called  the  "tall 
trees  of  Victoria,"  1)ut  in  some  ])ai'ts  there  was  a  dense  growth  of  saplings 
and  young  trees,  while  all  emi)ty  spaces  were  filled  in  with  dense  scrub,  con- 
sisting of  hazel,  musk,  dogwood,  tree  ferns,  etc.  I'he  work  of  clearing  such 
"sapling"  country  was  necessarily  sh)\\  nnd  expensive.  I  might  add  here 
that  since  the  country  got  cleared  and  the  features  of  the  country  made 
visible,  it  has  been  found  i)i'acticable  to  make  important  deviations  in  many 
of  the  I'oads,  as  first  surveyed,  when  lli(>  dilficultic's  of  picking  out  the  hest 
roads  wei"e  almost  insuperal)le. 

The  following  is  taken  from  the  "•(Jippsland  Mercury,"  September, 
1903,  and  will  fm-thei-  explain  Mi\  Lardner's  work  in  South  Gii)ps'land: — 

"He  joined  the  Survey  Department  on  the  2()th  Xovember,  IHOO,  and 
worked  in  the  field  undei-  Mi".  J.  llai'dy.  in  the  ^felbourne  district  and  Cape 
Otway  Ranires  up  to  the  end  of  lSt;8,  then  joined  Mr.  Callanan's  jiarty  (late 
Survevoi'-rireneral )    in   the   Moininglon   Peninsula,  and    woi'ked    with   him   in 


,S8  SURVEYING     RECOLLECTIONS. 

the  ^[olhounio  district  until  LsTO.  when  he  took  charge  of  the  party  and 
sticceoded  Mr.  CaHanaii  in  the  field.  Mr.  Lardner  was  engaged  chiefly  in 
layinir  out  streets  and  block's  in  the  snbnrbs  of  Melbonrne,  inclitding  Park- 
ville. Opposite  the  rniversity,  now  thickly  built  on;  also  on  the  St.  Kilda- 
roail  and  Qneen's-road,  Albert  Park,  on  which  are  built  very  fine  mansions 
and  residences.  In  P'ebruary.  lS7o,  he  went  to  Brandy  Creek,  where  a  rush 
for  -scrub  land"  had  set  in",  and  cut  up  about  10,000  acres  of  very  rough 
country  for  selection  during  that  year.  In  1874  he  surveyed  11,000  acres  of 
the  Kooweernp  Swamp,  north  of  the  Westernport  Inlets ;  worked  in  water 
sometimes  abo\e  the  knees,  and  liad  to  cut  through  dense  ti-tree  .scrub.  This 
work  was  very  trying  owing  to  the  w^et  and  the  scrub.  He  contintied  to 
w<M-k  at  various  parts  of  the  Melbourne  district  until  he  shifted  to  Gipps- 
land  again  in  1ST7.  to  survey  the  new  townships  along  the  raihvay  line,  then 
in  course  of  construction.  He  laid  out  all  the  townships  between  Morwell 
and  Pakenham.  including  Warragul  and  Drouin :  su.rveyed  roads  connecting 
the  railway  an.cl  the  new  settlements  to  the  south,  and  throtigh  to  the  coast, 
the  counti'v  then  being  nearly  all  dense  scrttb.  He  .sitrveyed  and  levelled  the 
Moe  Swamp  with  a  view  to  drainage.  He  .surveyed  and  laid  out  all  the  new 
township.s'  on  the  Great  Southern  railway  line,  including  Korumburra  and 
Leongatha.  now  important  towns.  Mr.  Lardner  continued  working  in  South 
Gippsland,  making  surveys  and  laying  ottt  roads  leading  to  townships,  etc., 
tintil  July.  1890,  when  he  went  to  Bairnsdale  to  fill  the  position  of  Land 
Officer,  in  July.  1896.  Mr.  Bruce  having  retired  from  the  service,  Mr. 
Lardner  took  over  the  work  of  the  Sale  office,  in  addition  to  that  of  Bairns- 
dale, without  any  additional  salary.  In  1899  he  w^as  promoted  to  the  position 
of  District  Surveyor  for  Gippsland  district,  which  extends  from  the  Morwell 
Bi^er  on  the  west  to  Cape  Howe  on  the  eaf?t.  and  the  New  Soitth  AVales 
border  on  the  north.  He  was  Chairman  of  the  Land  Classification  Board, 
Commissioner  for  taking  affidavits,  etc..  Classifier  under  the  Land  Tax  Act, 
and  several  other  offices.  Mr.  Lardner  is  in  good  health,  and,  as  a  very 
excellent  citizen,  has  helped  forward  many  a  movement,  and  we  hope  he 
will  contimie  to  do  so.  Of  such  stuff  were  the  pioneers  made,  and  it  is  with 
the  utmost  disgust  that  we  hear  some  of  the  present  generation  hooting  at 
men  who  are  retired  on  an  allowance,  sometimes  beggarly  in  its  nature,, 
when  we  haA'e  it  in  mind  that  these  men  have  encotmtered  and  conquered 
difficitlties  which  young  men  who  consider  themselves  something  in  these 
davs  would  not  dare  to  face." 


Early    Coal    Exploration    in    Gippsland. 

M^.  REGINALD  A    F.  MURRAY,  F.G.S. 


Kiiirli.sh 


The  following  reiiuniscences  in  connection  Avith 
the  above  subject  are  mainly  of  a  personal  character 
or  within  my  actual  knowledge:  but  as  my  associa- 
tion with  coal  exploration  only  commenced  earl}'  in 
IsTo  a  few  outlines  of  what  liad  been  done  pre- 
viously may  serve  as  a  useful  introduction: — 

Earl}'  history  of  Victorian  Exploration  has  it 
that  llume  and  Hovell,  the  hrst  pioneers  to  cross 
the  Murray,  made  their  way  down  to  the  coast  in 
the  neighbourhood  of  Cape  Patterson,  some  16 
miles  eastward  of  AVesternport,  and  there  saw  the 
outcropping  coal  seams  exposed  in  natural  section 
between  their  containing  rock-layers  on  the  sea 
margin.  Be  this  as  it  may,  anyone  who  travelled 
ahtnji;  the  shore  in  that  locality  could  not  fail  to 
notice  the  seams,  though  of  late  years  they  have 
become  less  distinguishable  owing  to  excavation  and 
concealment  by  overlying  rubble  through  sea  action. 

As  far  back  as  the  early  fifties  a  sturdy  old 
Or  Welsh)  ctnl  miner  named  (xeorge  l)a\is  is  reported  to  have  car- 
riea  a  -mall  baa  of  coal  on  his  b-ick  from  Cape  Patterson  up  to  Melbourne  to 
show  to  the  Governor  (Mr.  Latrobe).  When  Mr.  Alfred  R.  C.  Selwyn  came 
out  as  (iovernment  (Geologist  he  devoted  much  atteuticm  to  the  geology  of  the 
Cape  Patterson  coal  deposits  and  their  containing  rocks  as  far  as  natural 
exposures  enal)led  him,  and  about  ISGO  to  ISC).')  some  work  was  done  to  ex- 
ploit the  seams  exposed  on  tiie  coast  (then  known  as  the  "Rock"  and  "Queen" 
veins)  with  a  view  to  tracing  th^'ir  inland  continuations.  Some  hand-boring 
was  also  done  by  a  Mr.  Seddor,  l)ut  the  work  generally  was  of  a  desultory 
character,  and  a  good  deal  retarded  by  the  faulty  nature  of  the  rocks  and  the 
occun-ence  of  volcanic  dykes,  some  of  large  si/.c  buind  to  traverse  them. 

About  this  time.  too.  Mi-.  Richard  Daintree.  held  geologist,  muler  Mr. 
Selwyn.  investigated  some  of  the  country  along  the  l>ass  Ri\er.  aud  found  some 
small  coal  seams.  Subset|uently  a  company  was  formed  to  work  the  Cape 
Patters(m  seams,  and  a  iniu*'  opened  u\)  a  little  way  inland  from  the  coast. 
Some  1800  tons  of  coal  iue  repoited  to  have  been  raised  and  shii)i)ed  to  Mel- 
bourne. The  shii>ping  ])lace  w:is  a  dee|)  gut  in  the  rocks  where,  under  specially 
favourable  weatlier  conditions,  a  boat  coidd  i)e  loaded  and  take  the  coal  to  a 
vessel  statxling  outside:  bul  it  is  si  flight  fully  dnngerous  place  and  quite  im- 
practicable as  a  legidiir  shippin<.r  place.  Some  of  the  old  mooring  rings  were 
to  be  seen  when  I  last  jiassed  the  j)l:ice  some  ;').')  \e;irs  ngo.  From  data  al  that 
time  available  Selwyn  was  unable  to  repoi-l  hopefully  on  the  held,  though  the 
quality  of  the  coal  was  good,  if  inferior  to  (hat  of  Xew  South  AVales  as  a  gas 
producer:  ncverllieless,  he  iiidicaled  the  advi.~abilit\-  of  extendi  d  ~c;ircli  inhunl 
towiii'ils  the  Strzelecki    Riuiues. 


190  EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN      GIPPSLAND. 

Of  developments  from  1802  to  1873  I  have  no  personal  knowledge  beyond 
the  facts  that  the  Ivileunda  seam  ^Yas  found  and  also  the  Sandy  Waterholes 
seams  between  Kilcunda  and  Westernport,  but  towards  1873  one  of  the  many 
spasmodic  movements  in  Victorian  coal  development  took  place,  and  Mr. 
McKenzie.  chief  coal  viewer  for  New  South  AVales,  was  engaged  to  report  on 
the  prosrpects.  The  (leological  Survey  Department,  under  Mr.  Selwyn,  had 
been  abolished  in  1868,  and  he  and  his  statf  of  assistants,  including  myself, 
dispensed  with,  but  subsequently,  under  Mr.  Brough  Smyth.  Secretary  for 
jNIines.  and  Mr.  Couchman,  Chief  Mining  Surveyor.  I  had  been  re-engaged  as 
a  geological  surveyor,  jnd  it  fell  to  me  to  take  charge  of  a  party  of  men  to 
open  u])  the  ex])osed  coal  seams  at  Cape  Patterson  for  Mr.  ^NlcKenzie's  inspec- 
tion. At  this  time,  too,  the  Kilcunda  mine  had  been  opened,  a  company  having 
been  formed  to  work  it.  Messrs.  Latham  and  "Watson,  Bendigo  mine  owners, 
seem  to  haAe  been  the  principals,  and  a  Mr.  Thomas  was  mine  manager.  A 
shaft  had  been  sunk  to  cut  the  coal  seam  on  its  dip  inland  from  its  exposure 
along  the  clift's,  and  a  heading  driven  along  the  coal  for  some  distance,  the 
thicloiess  being  20  inches  to  2  feet,  and  the  quality  excellent.  A  tramway 
was  also  laid  to  the  jetty  on  the  eastern  passage  of  Westernport,  near  Grif- 
fith's Point,  now  known  as  San  Kemo. 

My  party  was  compos'ed  of  Cornish  miners  engaged  from  dunes, 
splendid  lode  ininers,  though  not  experienced  in  coal :  however,  that  did  not 
matter,  as  they  had  only  to  sink  and  costean  where  I  told  them.  We  tackled 
the  ••Rock*'  and  "Queen"'  veins  at  their  outcrops,  sinking  various  holes  and 
cuts  thi-ough  them  so  as  to  get  sections  of  the  seams.  In  some  places'  work 
could  only  be  done  at  low  tides,  the  holes  having  to  be  baled  out  at  the  next 
ebb,  and  so  on.  AVhile  camped  in  this  locality  in  a  ti-tree  shaded  hollow 
behind  the  sand  hummocks,  two  little  incidents  occurred  of  a  somewhat 
amusing  character.  The  party,  as  before  said,  consisted  of  Cornish  miners 
who  iiad.  it  appears,  come  direct  from  the  old  country  to  Clunes  and  liad 
no  experience  of  bush  life.  On  my  return  one  evening  I  found  them  just 
back  f?-om  work  much  excited  about  a  monkey  bear  which  they  had  foimd 
wandering  on  the  seashore  in  the  morning.  They  had  kept  him  surrounded 
at  a  safe  distance  till  one  of  them  Avent  back  to  camp  for  a  gun  and  shot  the 
poor  brute,  taking  his  skin  as  a  trophy.  On  my  laughing  at  them  and 
assuring  them  of  the  animal's  harmlessness,  one  said:  '•When  we  .seed  un 
first  we  thoAvt  un  was  a  say  beer  (sea  bear).  Another  remarked.  "We  thowt 
un  was  a  brave  beast." 

The  storekeeper  at  San  Remo  used  to  send  down  fortnightly  with  our 
food  supplies,  l)ut  one  Saturday  he  sent  everything  except  the  meat,  and 
gi-eat  was  the  triliulation  of  those  sturdy  miners',  who  assmed  me  they  could 
not  work  properly  without  meat.  I  chaffed  them  and  told  them  that  in  their 
own  country  they  only  saw  meat  once  a  year,  but  that  I  would  get  them 
some,  so,  going  out  by  early  dawn  Avith  my  rifle,  I  soon  got  a  big  kangaroo 
and  brought  back  its  hind  quarters  and  tail,  Avhich  Avere  cut  up  and  made  into 
a  steamer  or  sort  of  big  Irish  stew  with  potatoes  and  onions,  for  the  Sun- 
day's dinner.  The  majority  of  the  party  relished  this  all  right,  but  two  or 
three  ■■i)as~ed'"  the  kan.uaroo.  which  they  considered  to  be  among  the  animals 
forbidden  in  the  Bible  to  be  eaten.  In  vain  was  it  p<unted  out  that  the 
kangaroo  Avas  not  mentioned  at  all  in  the  Bible,  that  it  cheAved  the  cud.  and 
that  as  regards  the  cloven  foot,  it  Avent  one  better  than  the  sheep  or  bullock, 
having  three  toes  instead  of  tAvo.  No  use!  Prejudice  Avas  too  strong.  Hap- 
pily the  arrival  of  the  meat  next  day  ended  the  difficulty. 


EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IX      GIPPSLAXD.  191 

While  the  men  were  eairving  on  the  Avork  of  making  excavations  on 
the  exposed  coal  seams  and  on  sinking  a  shaft  inland  (where  the  continuation 
of  one  of  them  was  cut).  I  was  engaged  in  examining  the  features  of  the 
rocks  general]}'  along  the  coast  towards  Anderson's  Inlet,  and  also  went  to 
see  the  Strzelecki  or  Coal  Creek  seam,  which  had  not  long  previously  been 
discovered,  and  at  which  Mr.  Seddon  (ah-eady  mentioned  herein)  was  en- 
gaged with  a  party  boring.  This  seam  had  been  found  by  a  prospector 
named  James  Brown,  who  made  his  way  from  Stockyard  Creek,  past  Ander- 
son's Inlet,  and  thence  northward  into  the  Strzelecki  ranges.  He  found  the 
coal  exposure  in  Coal  Creek,  and  after  a  week's  travel  without  food  emerged 
from  the  forest  at  Bunyip.  He  ^^as  evidently  a  good  l)nshman,  being  able 
again  to  locate  his  discovery.  A  group  of  lease  blocks  were  taken  up  (by 
whom  I  do  not  know),  and  a  connecting  traverse  to  them  from  Anderson's 
Inlet  surveyed  by  Mr.  Turner,  mining  sur\'eyor  at  Stockyai'd  Creek  (Foster), 

In  due  course  Mr.  McKenzie  ari'ived  and  inspected  the  coal  seams  at 
the  various  points  Avhere  my  party  had  opened  them  up:  he  also  went  up  to 
see  the  Coal  Creek  seam,  and  went  through  the  Kilcunda  mine.  His  report  to 
the  Government  was  by  no  means  encouraging:  he  evidently  simply  pro- 
nounced on  the  evidence  brought  before  him.  which  certainly  was  at  the  time 
rather  meagre.  "Coal  existent  certainly  and  of  good  (luality,  but  not  in  com- 
mercially Avorkable  thickness.''  may  be  given  as  an  epitome  of  his  expressed 
opinion.  He  made  no  suggestion  as  to  larger  possil)ilities  or  the  directions' 
in  which  to  look  for  them;  he  spoke  simply  as  a  coal  \  iewer,  not  as  a  geolo- 
gist. XoAv  I  had  not  forgotten  the  views  of  my  old  chief  (Mr.  Selwyn)  as 
to  the  possibilities  of  coal  further  inland  from  the  coast ;  the  Coal  Creek  dis- 
covery tended  to  s'trengthen  those  vievcs,  and  being  fond  of  exploration 
generally  I  asked  Mr.  Brough  Smj^th  to  let  me  make  further  geological 
examinations,  which  he  did.  giving  me  a  free  hand  as  to  methods. 

Coming  down  to  (Tippsland  al)out  the  middle  of  1873,  I  began  Avith  a 
preliminary  tour  of  the  country,  and  then  settbd  doAvn  to  the  area  occupied 
by  the  coal  Ijenring  (or  possit»le  coal  bearing)  locks.  conmiencing  Avith  short 
incursions  into  the  foot  hills  of  the  ranges  from  ))oints  in  the  settled  country 
fi'om  Sale  to  Port  All)err.  Foster  and  Anderson's  Inlet  on  the  southern  or 
coastal  margin,  and  along  the  Latrttbe  valley  to  Moe,  .uul  tiuMU'c  along  the 
Moe  valley  to  the  Kooweerup  on  the  northern  flanks.  These  lines  represent 
roughly  the  boundaries  of  the  carbonaceous  area  (except  an  occurrence  on  the 
noi-th  of  the  Latrol)e  valley  at  the  Tycrs).  (leologicnlly  the  granites  and 
Silurian  rocks  of  Cape  AVooJamai  and  the  Mornington  Peninsula  and  those 
extending  along  the  north  of  the  Kooweerup,  Moe  and  Latrobe  \alley>  con- 
stitute the  western  and  northei-n  b(»undai'ies.  while  on  the  south  we  haxc  the 
Silurian  and  granite  of  Cape  Liptrap.  A)'ils(>n's  Proni<»nloi-v.  the  TToddle 
Range,  and  Foster:  how  far  the  cailtonaccous  rocUs  extend  under  the  sea  l)e- 
tAveen  Capes  Woolaniai  and  I/ipt'up  nr  eastward  of  Corner  Inlet  is  unknown, 
but  the  boundni'V  nnisl  lie  under  I'a-^  Slrnil  between  the  uiMiidnnd  and  Tas- 
mania. 

Ml'.  ().  P.  A\'hilehnv  \\a>  iIkmi  engaged  cutting  ti-acks  in  ihe  South  (iii)ps- 
land  i-anges,  and  wheic  conxcnienl  I  U'-ed  Iiis  camps  as  starting  ])oints  whence 
to  make  investigations  in  the  eicck  und  gully  beds  on  eitlu'r  side  of  the  main 
range  i-ising  from  neai*  KoM'dale  and  forming  the  wat<'r^hed  between  the 
Lati-obe  drainage  area  and  the  streams  i-unning  direel  lo  tiie  south  coast. 
In  Older,  however,  to  exi)loie  the  Tarwin  area.  I  adoi)ted  the  only  way  then 
aAailal»le,   which   Avas  to  go    on     foot.     The    funds    at    the    disposal   of    the 


19_'  EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN      GIPPSLAND 

Ueoloirical  Snr\ey  bi-anch  did  not  admit  of  my  having  a  properlj'  equipped 
party;  one  could  not  take  a  packhorse  without  cutting  a  track  for  him,  and 
there  was  no  feed  for  him,  and  instead  of  being  of  use  he  would  be  a  worry; 
besides  a  man  on  foot  could  go  where  no  horse  could.  My  brother-in-law, 
Mr.  Henry  ^V.  Ford,  was  my  comj^anion  assistant,  and  as  we  both  had  pre- 
vious experience  in  exploring  precisely  similar  country  in  the  Otway  ranges 
we  understood  well  how  to  equip  ourselves  for  the  forest  journeys  and  for 
periods  of  absence  up  to  ten  days  or  even  more  from  inhabited  localities. 
Our  sAvags  comprised  necessaries  and  no  more,  in  as  light  and  compact  a  form 
as  possible.  Each  had  his  blanket  and  a  light  change  of  clothes,  with  a  sheet 
of  waterproof  American  cloth  or  oilcloth.  The  provisions  were  as  follow : — 
Small  round  cakes  of  the  whole  wheat  flour  containing  all  the  strength- 
giving  constituents  of  the  wheat,  not  depri^'ed  of  them  as  is  the  case  with 
the  white  flour  generallj'^  used  for  bread  in  deference  to  the  popular  prejudice 
for  colour.  One  of  these  cakes  for  each  meal  was  the  allowance,  so  for  a 
proposed  ten  days'  journey  each  of  us  had  thirt}^  packed  in  a  long  round 
Isag  which  fitted  in  the  snvag  without  making  it  too  bulky.  For  meat  each 
had  a  large  piece  of  cooked  corned  beef,  also  of  a  shape  convenient  for  com- 
pact packing.  Some  onions,  tea,  coffee,  sugar  and  salt  in  quantity  sufficient 
for  estimated  time  of  absence  completed  the  commissariat  supply.  All  was 
packed,  with  the  blankets,  etc.,  in  neat  long  round  swags  with  the  oilcloth 
outside,  so  that  everything  was  kept  dry,  and  carried  on  our  backs  b}''  means 
of  broad  shoulder  straps,  leaving  our  arms  free.  The  billy  hung  on  the  end 
of  one  swag  and  the  tomahawk  strapped  outside  the  other  ready  for  use  when 
wanted.  I  also  carried,  slung  in  front,  a  leatiier  bag  containing  compass, 
aneroid,  notebook,  fishing  tackle  and  other  small  requisites,  with  the  midday 
rations,  so  as  to  avoid  opening  the  swag.  Altogether  our  loads  at  stalling 
would  be  about  60  lb.  each.  We  took  no  gun,  there  being  little  use  for  it, 
and  besides  it  would  be  an  encumbrance.  We  would  get  our  swags  carried 
by  vehicle  or  packhorse  as  far  as  practicable  into  the  margin  of  the  forest 
and  then  plunge  in.  In  camping  at  evening  we  would  make  a  mia-mia  in  a 
few  minutes  with  a  couple  of  forked  saplings  about  5  feet  high  and  a  ridge- 
pole six  or  seven  feet  long,  with  sticks  leaning  against  it  and  ferntree  fronds 
as  a  thatch  and  backing.  P'ern  fronds,  bracken  and  other  suitable  stuff'  were 
used  to  cover  the  ground  inside,  and  on  these  we  laid  our  oilskin  sAvags- 
wrappers  to  keep  out  damp,  and  spread  our  blankets  on  top.  A  big  fire 
was  made  in  front  of  the  mia-mia,  so  that  no  matter  how  wet  we  may  have 
got  during  the  day  Ave  could  unpack  our  sAvags  in  shelter  and  warmth,  put  on 
dry  things,  sleep  dry,  and  dry  our  clothes  for  next  day.  The  fern  fronds 
thatch  kept  off  rain  A'ery  well,  though  later  Ave  added  to  our  stock  a  small 
light  calico  fly  about  3  or  4  lb.  in  Aveight,  which,  s])rea(l  over  the  mia-mia, 
made  an  eff'ectiA'e  shelter  or  could  be  used  alone  in  dry  Aveather.  In  some  of 
the  creeks  and  riA^ers,  especially  the  TarAvin,  Ave  caught  mighty  blackfish  up 
to  5  or  0  lb.  weight,  which,  Avrapjjed  in  Itark  and  leaves  and  cooked  in  hot 
ashes,  made  a  Avelcome  addition  to  our  food  sup])ly.  During  all  our  travels 
we  never  suffered  from  so  much  as  a  sore  throat,  but  kept  in  excellent  health 
and  vigour. 

Before  entering  on  any  details  as  to  our  explorations,  a  sketch  of  the  then 
conditions  as  to  tracks,  settlement,  etc.,  may  be  advisable. 

McDonald's  Track,  starting  from  l^etAveen  Moe  and  INIorwell  up  to  the 
main  watershed  of  the  South  Gippsland  ranges,  and  folloAving  the  same  to 
Westernport,  had  been  cut  a  feAv  years  preAi^ously,  and  was  ifttle,  if  at  all, 
used,  being  so  OA^ergrown  and  blocked  with  fallen  timber  as  to  be  difficult 


EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN      GIPPSLAND.  19:{ 

to  find  ill  some  places,  though  in  others  as  o])en  as  Avhen  first  cut.  My  ex- 
plorations along  this  extended  as  far  as  where  Poowong  now  stands.  Dodd's 
track  to  Stockyard  Creek  started  from  Morwell.  taking  a  spur  up  to  the  main 
Avatei'slied.  following  that  to  about  Mirhoo  between  the  western  heads  of  the 
Morwell  and  the  eastern  heads  of  the  northern  Tarwin,  then  descending  to 
and  crossing  the  southern  Tarwin  and  rising  to  the  range  between  that  river 
and  the  heads  of  P'ish  Creek,  thence  by  a  spur  betAveen  the  Bennison  and 
Stockyard  Creeks  down  to  Foster. 

Lvddiard's  track  started  from  a  point  on  McDonald's  Track  on  the  main 
watershed,  followed  that  down  to  Dodd's  track,  crossing  and  diverging  from 
the  latter,  nnd  took  another  spur  down  to  the  southern  Tarwin.  crossed  it, 
and  rose  to  meet  Dodd's  track  again  on  the  range  between  the  southern 
Tarwin  and  Fish  Creek.  These  tracks  were  then  mere  bridle  tracks,  much 
obstructed,  and  little  n.sed,  as  the  flush  times  of  StocWard  Creek  and  Turton's 
Creek  diggings  were  on  the  wane. 

On  the  coast  side  were  the  tracks  from  Alberton  to  Welshpool  and 
Foster,  and  thence  to  the  Tarwin.  near  the  head  of  Anderson's  Inlet,  where 
Jack  Weydell  had  an  accommodation  hut  and  a  ferry.  Avhence  the  track  fol- 
lowed the  open  country  bordering  the  coast  roimd  the  inlet  and  on  to  Cape 
Patterson.  Kilcunda  and  Westernport.  All  the  country  bounded  by  these 
tracks  Avas  uninhabited  and  clothed  Avith  a  heavy  forest  of  large  timber  and 
a  dense  scrub  of  A'arious  kinds,  principally  hazel,  blanket-leaf,  musk,  dog- 
Avood.  etc..  ;nid  fern  trees,  besides  iiineh  sninllei-  veuotation. 

On  the  northern  side  the  trial  survey  line  of  the  (Jippsland  railway  had 
been  cleared  along  the  Moe  valley,  but  the  toAvns  that  noAv  stand  along  that 
line  were  not.  Selection  Avas  starting  about  Brandy  Creek  (noAv  Buln  Buln) 
and  extending  soutliAvard  around  Avhere  Warragul  noAv  flourishes;  but  very 
soon  (about  the  end  of  1S74  and  afterAvards)  it  spread  info  all  the  Soufli 
Gippsland  forest  country. 

To  return  to  my  oAvn  explorations,  Avhich  commenced  early  in  1S74.  my 
object  was  to  search  for  exposures  of  coal  and  to  obtain  all  aA'ailable  data  as 
to  the  character  of  the  rocks,  the  dips  and  strikes  of  their  layers  and  any 
evidence  that  might  be  obtainable  as  to  ])ossible  extension  of  known  coal 
seams.  I  did  nol  lo.sc  si<rhl  of  the  possibility  of  coining  mci-oss  aiiotlicr  ex- 
posure of  the  underlying  silurian  rocks  like  the  isolated  auriferous  outcrop  at 
Turton's  (^reels',  but  Avas  disapjioinled  in  this  ho])e. 

After  \arious  minor  explorations  in  the  eastein  portion  of  the  ranges, 
Ford  and  I  undertook  the  traverse  of  the  southern  Tarwin.  stai-ling  from 
Turton's  Creek,  its  head.  We  simply  took  the  best  travelling  we  could  find 
nearest  to  the  bed  of  the  ^li-eam.  as  only  there  conld  e.\i)o>nres  ^)i'  rock  be 
seen,  the  hillsides  being  ob.scured  by  heavy  soil.  I  Uept  a  ^ort  of  i-ough  sur- 
vey l)y  means  (d'  comj)ass  bearings  and  the  lime  taken  in  ti'axclling  from  point 
to  point.  After  passing  the  crossings  of  Lyddiard's  and  Dodd's  li-acks  Ave 
^aw  no  siirns  (d'  any  |)re\  i<ii>  explorers  along  the  I'ixcr  till  near  the  Inlet: 
though  numerous  exposures  of  the  carbonaceous  i-ocks  were  .seen  and  observa- 
tions taken  of  the  dip  and  strike,  no  actual  comI  was  met  with.  As  we  de- 
scended, the  flats  and  reed  beds  along  the  ri\cr  becnnie  more  nnnierous  and 
Avirler,  and  after  being  out  about  a  week  we  fonnd  the  jiniction  (d"  the  main 
northern  branch  of  the  ri\('r,  beyond  which  the  more  o|n  n  lie;ithy  and  bayonet- 
grass  country  eir.d)led  us  to  mak<'  an  ea.sy  joniney  down  to  ^^'eyd«'l^s  hut.  On 
another  occasion,  desiring  (o  explore  the  Northern  "^laiwin.  we  started  from 


194  EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN      GIPPSLAND. 

M<ie  and  wont  up  McDoiiiild"^  Trark  as  far  as  al)(>ut  the  head  of  the  Xarra- 
eaii.  and  were  aeeoniDaiiied  l)y  a  ])r()sj)eft()r  named  David  Kyan.  who  showed 
where  he  had  obtained  prospects  of  very  fii^ie  gold  in  a  quartz  gravel  which 
occurs  there.  Ryan  had  previottsly  discovered  the  great  bed  of  lignite  or 
brown  coal  on  the  banks  of  the  Latrobe  at  Haunted  Hill,  and  had  sent  me  a 
sample  which  caused  me  to  go  and  inspect  it;  its  continuation  was  after- 
wards traced  to  the  Morwell  Kiver.  where  eiforts  at  development  were  made 
by  the  jNIorwell  Brown  Coal  Co.  Bidding  farewell  to  Ryan,  we  turned  south- 
ward from  McDonald's  Track  and  dropped  into  a  creek,  since  named  Elizabeth 
Creek,  a  branch  of  the  Northern  Tarwin ;  here  we  found  coal  of  good  quality 
in  the  creek  bed,  but  the  seam  was  only  about  18  inches  thick  Avhere  visible. 
Lower  down  near  the  junction  with  the  river  we  now  saw  ahead,  looking  like 
a  low  black  cliif,  what  at  first  w-e  took  to  be  a  great  coal  seam,  but  on  reach- 
ing it  found  it  was  a  lignite  bed  about  6  feet  thick.  Following  down  the 
river  and  making  a  rough  survey  as  in  the  case  of  the  southern  branch,  we 
noted  the  basaltic  area  that  occurs  about  Leongatha,  and  also  came  upon 
traces  of  someone  before  us,  in  the  shape  of  an  old  prospecting  camp,  where 
some  gravel  occurs  on  the  left  bank  of  the  river.  Finally,  w^e  emerged  on 
the  oDen  rountrv  near  the  junction  of  the  two  streams,  our  last  two  or  three 
days'  sustenance  being  confined  to  blackfish  and  eels,  and  made  our  way 
down  again  to  AVeydell's  hut.  On  another  trip  we  travelled  along  the  coast 
from  Anderson's  Inlet  round  Cape  Liptrap.  examining  the  silurian  docks 
ex|)(jsed  there,  and  discovering  the  great  limestone  bed  at  Warntah  Bay.  and 
thence  examining  the  west  coast  of  Wilson's  Promontory  down  lo  the  light- 
house. We  tried  to  return  along  the  east  side,  but  found  it  too  roitgh.  so 
returned  by  the  west  side. 

From  Mr.  Laycock's  selection  near  Screw  Creek  (Inverloch)  we  made 
another  A'isit  to  Strzelecki  coal  seam  on  Coal  Creek,  and  found  Seddon's 
old  boring  camp  deserted,  boring  tools  and  other  things  left  and  provisions 
gone  to  decay,  exceiJt  some  tins  of  preserved  milk,  which  we  annexed  and 
found  satisfaclor3\  From  this  camp  we  fottnd  a  very  faintly  marked  track 
going  northward  that  had  jirobably  been  made  by  Turner,  the  surveyor,  and 
had  apparantly  been  only  used  once,  by  a  party  that  had  a  horse  or  horses 
with  thern  and  just  cut  enou.ah  to  afford  pas.-a^c  throuiih  the 
scrub;  one  horse  had  succumbed,  as  we  saw  the  skeleton.  This  track  kept 
the  spur  between  the  northern  TarAvin  w^aters  on  the  east  and  those  of  the 
Powlett  and  Bass  rivers  on  the  west,  and  came  out  on  McDonald's  Track 
upr»n  the  main  range.  Korumburra  is  on  this  track,  which  was 
subsequently  followed  and  opened  up  by  0.  P.  Whitelaw.  On  my 
last  swag-carrying  expedition  through  the  ranges  Ford  Avas  not  Avith  me,  but 
I  look  in  his  stead  Chri<t(Ji)her  T^aAvior.  for  mauA'  vears  since  an  inspector 
of  stock.  Equipped  and  provisioned  as  previously  descriljed.  Ave  started 
from  the  old  coach  road  at  Brandy  Creek  (Buln  Buln).  and  passing  where 
Warragul  now  .stands.  Avent  up  the  Bear  creek,  a  head  branch  of  the  Moe. 
Camping  one  night  at  O'Mahony's  coal  seam  Avhich  Jack  Gallagher  and 
another  man  Avere  opening  up,  we  found  they  had  run  out  of  tucker,  so.  on 
leaving  in  the  morning.  A\-e  gaA'e  them  a  little  of  our  store,  thinking  Ave  aa-ouUI 
still  have  enough  to  carry  us  throtigh.  We  made  our  Avay  through  the 
scrub  up  to  McDonald's  Track,  crossed  it.  and  Avent  doAvn  into  the  northern 
TarAA'in  further  westA\-ard  than  on  mv  previous  journey.  My  object  Avas  to 
examine  any  visible  rock  exposures  in  the  head  branches  of  the  riA'er.  and 
then  make  up  to  the  track  that  I  kncAv  WhitelaAv  Avas  then  cutting  from 
Fostei-.  and  wliich  had  reached  Coal  Ci-eek  and   was  Iwlwj  extended  alonir  the 


EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN      GIPPSLAND.  hi.-, 

cour>e  of  the  fuiiit  Itridie  track  pre\i()us]y  referred  to  as  followiiig-  the  spur  lie- 
tweeii  the  Tarwin  Avaters  and  those  of  the  Powlett.  AVhile  in  the  Tarwin  val- 
le}-.  however,  we  Avere  weather-bound  for  some  days  by  incessant  rains,  could 
do  nothing  but  stop  in  our  mia-mia.  keep  a  fire  going,  and  eat  our  provisions, 
which  were  about  exhausted  Avhen  we  were  able  to  make  a  fresh  start;  but 
I  felt  confident  of  getting  to  Whitelaw's  track  and  reaching  his  cam])  in  a  day 
or  two.  The  travelling  was  very  bad  and  the  scrub  very  dense;  carrying 
our  now  lightened  swags  about  3  miles  a  day  was  as  much  as  we  could  do; 
still,  we  kept  on  south-westerly,  and  by  some  inadvertence  must  have  crossecl 
the  old  track  without  noticing  it  at  a  point  a  mile  or  two  ahead  of  where 
Whitelaw  had  reached.  Still  thinking  it  before  us,  we  went  on  till  it  was 
plain  that  we  had  got  into  the  Powlett  drainage  area,  and  there  was  nothing 
for  it  but  to  push  for  the  coast.  We  had  then  been  four  days  without  food, 
even  our  sugar  had  run  out,  though  we  had  tea  left  and  plenty  of  tobacco. 
Wc  l)oiled  nettle  leaves,  which  tasted  like  coarse  spinach,  also  tlie  in.^ide  pith 
of  fern-trees  whei'e  the  fronds  start  from.  We  could  catch  no  fish,  the  creeks 
being  fiooded:  and  though  we  saw  some  bears,  they  were  in  trees  too  big 
to  be  felled  A^ith  our  tomahawk:  having  no  gun,  Ave  could  get  no  birds. 
LaAvlor  Avas  for  throwing  away  sAvags  and  making  a  rush,  but  I  would  not 
have  it.  considerinu'  the  safer  i)!an  in  our  Aveakening  condition  to  take  things 
quietly  and  have  good,  comfortable  rest  at  night.  On  the  night  of  the 
fourth  day  Avithout  food  Ave  could  distinct!}''  hear  the  breakers  on  the  coast, 
so  kncAv  Ave  Avere  not  far  ott  open  country,  and  the  next  day  struck  tSie 
PoAvlett  river  (as  I  afterwards  found)  al)out  tAvo  miles  above  Feehan's  hut.  but 
so  fiooded  as  to  be  uncro^^alile.  and  bordered  witii  im])enetraltle  scrub.  >o  that 
it  Avas  useless  to  try  to  follow  the  riAer  down.  >,o  I  determined  to  keep  back 
from  the  riA'er  in  rather  clearei'  country  and  foUow  it.--  \alK'y  (h)wnwards. 
This.  hoAvever,  LaAvloi-  AvoiiUl  not  consent  to.  saying  that  he  woidd  stick  to 
the  riA'er  and  follow  it:  finding  all  j)ersuasion  in  vain,  antl  ix'ing  ecjually 
obstinate  myself,  I  took  my  own  course,  enjoining  on  Lawlor  that  a>  lie  was 
so  bent  on  kee])ing  to  the  ri\ei'  he  had  l)etter  do  so.  and  not  ciiange  hi>  mind 
afterwards,  as  T  Avould  be  sine  to  get  out  first  and  woidd  know  where  to  come 
back  and  h)ok  for  him.  M'e  dixided  oui'  tea.  tobacco,  and  matches  (six  each), 
and  also  exchanged  signed  i)ai)ers  so  that  in  case  of  eithei-  of  us  being  lost  and 
the  othei'  ijfetting  out.  the  suixixor  could  shoAv  himself  iiniocent  of  wrong. 
After  a  linal  inetlectual  etlort  to  ])ersuade  Lawloi-  to  come  with  uic.  w*>; 
pai'ted.  and  I  made  bade  t'roui  ilic  i'i\('i'.  >ooii  getting  into  better  connlry 
and  travelling  tiuickcr.  I  cauipcii  that  i>ighl  t)y  a  >inMll  creek,  making  a  lire 
by  the  ex|)enditure  of  one  match,  bri'wing  ^ome  sugailc^v  tea  in  a  pannikin 
(Lawlor  had  the  billy)  and  sleeping  very  comfortably.  Next  morning,  -oon 
after  starting.  I  came  on  -ome  wild  cattle  and  yearned  for  my  rille.  but. 
nevertliele.->.  knowing  their  hal)it  of  making  f<»r  the  coa>t  country  at  nighl.  1 
]ook(Ml  for  and  r'»un<l  their  tracks  thro;i<:h  the  >crMli.  and  Inward--  cxcniiig  got 
on  clear  coiui'iv  neai'  the  Powlett  Hi-idae.  and  reached  the  hut  ol'  a  iiian  I 
knew  (Mr.  Ilitchins).  who  soon  supplied  in\  want-.  I 'x  fore  dawn  next 
morning  Ilitchins  aufl  I  cro-^ed  the  rixcr  and  lollowcd  up  the  south  >idc  ])ast 
P'eehan's  tle.serted  hut  to  a  log  which  IIi(<-hin.s  Iciiew  of  by  which  we  could 
cross.  Here  I  cooee-ed.  and  lo  my  delight  was  answered  from  far  back  in  the 
scrub,  so  T  ])repared  ^ome  tea  and  food  while  Ilitchins  went  in.  and  after 
much  cooee-ing  found  and  guided  Lawloi-  out.  lie  luul  had  a  bad  time, 
having,  the  first  night  he  was  alone.  Irie<l  to  uiakc  his  lire  with  the  damp  stuH' 
near  the  riA'er.  and  used  u))  all  his  matches  without  getting  a  fire  or  excn  a 
last  light  for  his  jiipe.  -o  !iad  two  cold,  wet  niLilits.  Iireles>-.  with  the  conipany 
of  a  pack  of  dingoe-  t  hat  howleil  about  him.     However,  a  day's  spell  at  the  old 


]l)(i  EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION      IX     GIPPSLANL. 

hut  put  us  rig-ht,  and  we  went  to  Laycock's  at  the  Inlet,  whence  we  struck  off 
ami  leacheil  AA'hitelaw's  track,  followed  it  up  to  his  camp  and  thence  back  to 
McDonald's  Track  and  out  to  the  settlements.  AVe  suti'ered  no  bad  effects 
from  oar  fast,  except  feeling  a  l^it  weak  for  a  day  or  two,  and  an  inordinate 
appetite  for  about  three  weeks  after.  This  was  about  the  conclvLsion  of  my 
rougher  exploration  in  South  Gippsland. 

Settlement  rapidly  spread  up  McDonald's  Track,  the  Xarracan  and 
Mirboo.  Jack  Gallagher,  with  whom  I  had  camped  at  Bear  Creek,  and  told 
about  the  rich  Mirboo  land,  went  and  found  it  and  did  well,  showing  selections 
to  those  in  search  thereof.  Some  land-showers  of  that  time,  used,  it  is  .<aid. 
to  make  tlie  same  block  do  duty  for  many  applicants,  but  things  got  sorted 
out   eventually. 

The  results  of  my  examination  were  duly  published  in  a  sketch  Geologi- 
cal Map  of  South  Gi])psland  and  a  report  in  Geological  Progi*ess  Report, 
No.  o.  wherein  I  described  all  the  then  known  coal  seams,  and  expressed  the 
confident  opinion  that  Victoria  possessed  coal  resources  that  would  at  all 
events  partly  supply  her  own  requirements  if  systematically  dcA^loped. 
This  has  come  to  pass:  in  the  cour.se  of  .settlement  and  clearing,  the  Jumbunna 
seam  was  found:  enterprise  on  the  part  of  comparatively  few  who  had  faith. 
OA'ercame  the  prejudices  of  the  many  who  had  none:  borings,  after  many 
fruitless  trials,  at  last  located  the  AAV^nthaggi  field,  and.  I  believe,  that  were 
private  enterprise  allowed  a  free  hand,  a  much  more  extensive  field  than  at 
present  known  v>'ould  be  developed  along  and  adjacent  to  a  zone  of  country 
extending  from  Wonthaggi  to  Mirboo.  Allowing  for  faultings  and  dis- 
locations of  the  beds,  there  are  surely  tracts  of  good  extent  where  careful 
trial  w\\]  develo])  Avorkable  seams  in  the  drainao-e  area  of  the  Tarwin  Val- 
ley. 

In  my  report  mention  was  also  made  of  the  vast  timljer  resources  of  the 
disl]-icr.  not  only  as  regards  the  eucalypts.  l)Ut  other  avooc's.  and  suggestions 
offered  as  to  forest  conservation  in  the  way  of  selecting  and  demarcating  a 
number  of  small  or  medium-sized  forest  areas  of  the  best  quality,  rather 
than  the  indiscriminate  reservation  of  a  few  large  tracts  containing,  perhaps, 
a  large  proportion  of  useless  timber. 

Xo  action  was  taken  on  this,  and  most  of  the  best  forest  land  was  selected, 
the  .scrub  cut.  and  the  trees  rung,  to  the  destruction  of  an  incalculable  quan- 
tity of  valuable  woods  that  in  a  few  years  might  have  become  available  for 
use.  There  seemed  then  to  be  in  the  dei^artmental  mind  a  dread  that  selectors 
might  make  monev  out  of  the  timber,  so  they  were  virtually  compelled  to 
destroy  it,  instead  of  clearing  well  and  thoroughly  only  small  sections  at  a 
time,  getting  produce  from  them,  and  extending  them  gradiuilly.  Many 
selectors  exhausted  their  capital  on  .scrub  cutting  and  timber  ringing  over  all 
their  .selections  and  were  unable  to  maintain  the  clearings;  the  timber  died 
Avith  the  dried  bark  hanging  from  it.  fresh  growths  of  scrub  sprang  up,  and, 
ur.ju-otected  by  the  green  forest,  quickly  dried  in  Summer,  so  that  disas- 
trous busli  fires  were  the  result,  the  blazing  bark  from  tl:e  dead  trees  being 
carried  ahead  by  the  wind  to  soread  the  destruction. 

However,  there  is  no  u.se  in  crying  over  spilt  milk:  it  is  to  be  hoped  that 
better  care  will  be  taken  of  the  remaining  f(,rest  resources  of  Victoria.  The 
disastrous  times  of  South  Gippsland  aie  disappearing,  and  the  uninhabited 
foicst  of  ^0  years  ago  has  become  the  iiome  of  a  prosperous  community.     In 


EARLY     COAL     EXPLORATION     IN     GIPPSLAND.  |97 

coiiclusioii.  it  may  be  remarked  lliat  cluruig  my  explorations  I  saw  no  in- 
dications of  the  dense  I'orest  country  liaA  ing  been  much  frequented  by  the 
blacks,  thouoh  it  appears  theii-  .->tone  tomahawks  have  occasionally  l)een 
found. 

As  a  rule  the  forest  did  not  oU'er  the  attraction^  that  the  more  open 
country  did  in  the  way  of  game,  though,  possibly,  it  was  not  always  so 
dense,  as  I  remember  Mi.  J.  McMillan,  a  very  early  settler  at  Muddy  Creek 
(Toora),  told  me  that  when  he  first  came,  the  ranges  about  there,  though 
Avooded.  were  f^o  free  fi*om  scrub  that  one  could  ride  through  them,  and 
that  the  dense  grov/th  sprang  up  after  ihe  great  bush  fire  of  Black  Thursday 
in  the  early  fifties.  The  scrub  country  was  not  ver}^  rich  in  fauna,  there  were 
no  large  kangaroos,  but  a  few  wallabies,  most  plentiful,  however,  on  the 
outskirts.  Native  bears  were  fairly  numerous,  and  one  could  hear  occasionally 
at  night  the  opc^ssums.  tiie  Hying  stpiirrel  and  the  tiger  cat.  Dingoes  were 
occasionally  met  with.  Ot  biids.  tlie  lyre  bird  was  the  most  mnnerous.  or.  at 
any  rate,  the  most  noticeal)le:  and  there  Avere  parrots  of  vai-ious  species,  with 
a  few  of  the  smallei-  kinds  of  birds:  snakes  were  not  plentiful  in  the  forest, 
though  numerous  in  the  more  open  country.  Taking  all  things  into  con- 
sideration, I  do  not  think  there  was  ever  a  country  in  the  Avorld  where, 
barring  accidents,  the  explorer  would  meet  with  less  danger  as  regards  his 
health,  vicissitudes  of  climate,  or  hurtful  forms  of  life  than  in  the  South 
Gippsland  forests  of  40  years'  ago. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  A.  C.  GROOM. 

It  was.  I  think,  the  end  oi'  1876  when  I  first  became  acquainted  with 
the  (iippshind  send)  country.  I  went  by  train  as  far  as  Bunyip,  thence  by 
coach  to  Brandy  Creek.  At  that  time,  the  country  had  been  taken  up  to  a 
considerable  extent  as  far  south  as  Allambee.  The  Leongatha  country,  and  in 
towards  Anderson's  Inlet,  was  being-  surveyed,  and,  if  I  remember  rightly,  a 
few  blocks  were  talvcn  up  between  Leongatha  and  Mirboo.  A  few  selectors 
had  taken  up  their  residence  in  the  Poowong  district,  while  away  to  the  south 
it  was.  I  think,  all  virgin  scrub,  and  only  a  few  blocks  taken  up  on  the  out- 
skirts. My  first  visit  to  Poow^ong  was,  I  think,  in  1877  or  1878.  A  track  had 
just  been  opened  from  Drouin,  and  1  walked  across  from  there,  my  guide 
beino"  tiie  late  A.  McLaren.  We  reached  Frazer's  selection  in  a  heavy  storm, 
and  had  something  to  eat.  and  then  reached  the  late  Jame.s  Scott's  hotel  at 
10  o'clock  at  night,  wet  through.  I  spent  several  days  there:  then  Mr.  Scott, 
acting:  as  my  guide,  v.e  went  along  McDonald's  Ti-ack  for  some  miles  east, 
then  doAvn  a  surveyed  line  towards  Moyarra.  At  that  time  only  a  few  had 
co)ne  in  to  reside,  but  scrub  cutting  was  going  on  in  all  directions.  There 
were  very  few  houses,  and  nobody  could  then  believe  that  in  a  few  years 
there  could  be  such  a  miracidous  change  in  the  country,  or  that  it  would  con- 
tain such  a  large  population  as  now  exists  there.  I  have  seen  every  township, 
both  on  the  north  and  south  railway  lines,  spring  into  existence,  Avith  the 
exception  of  Foster,  which  was  an  old  mining  toAvn.  My  first  visit  to  Foster 
was  in  1876.  T  rode  from  Morwell  to  Bair's  Tarwin  hotel,  left  my  horse 
there,  and  walked  to  Mirboo  South,  stayed  the  night  there,  and  Avalked  next 
day  to  Foster  along  a  terrible  traclv,  and  got.  late  at 'night,  to  Finlay's  hotel 
at  Foster,  thoroughly  knocked  up.  I  spent  a  day  at  Foster,  and  then  went 
on  to  ^Ir.  Sheppard's  at  Toora,  and  from  there  came  back  to  Mirboo.  All 
that  country  A\as  then  in  a  wild  state,  only  a  few  blocks  being  taken  up  be- 
tween Mirboo  and  Mirboo  South.  At  that  time  the  Fish  Creek  country  was 
being  surveyed,  but  none  had  been  taken  up.  I  knew  Warragid  and  Drouin 
some  years  before  the  railway  was  completed,  and  when  there  were  only  rail- 
Avay  camps  there;  and  rough  ones  they  were.  I  held  the  first  auction  sale  at 
Poowong  in  yards  newly  erected  by  the  late  James  Scott.  I  forget  what  year 
that  was  in,  but  it  would  be  in  the  early  '80's.  At  that  time  I  used  to  leave 
AVarragul  at  4  o'clock  in  the  morning  of  the  day  of  the  sale,  ride  across  to 
Poowong,  hold  the  sale,  and  get  back  to  Warragul  the  same  night,  which  was 
a  fair  day's  work,  considering  the  state  of  the  roads.  Several  times  T  had  to 
camp  out  alone  in  the  bush  all  night  in  the  early  days,  and  had  neither  fire 
nor  food.  I  remember  getting  to  a  selector's  hut  one  night  about  10  o'clock, 
about  16  miles  from  Warragul  along  McDonald's  Track,  and  found  the 
owner  absent  and  his  hut  locked.  I  got  down  the  chimney,  but  found  no 
tucker,  as  the  owner  had  evidently  been  away  for  some  days.  At  daylight  I 
pushed  on  along  the  track,  and  got  as  far  as  the  Coal  Creek  mine,  where  I 
got  some  food. 

I  made  all  these  trips  in  the  early  days,  to  satisf>^  myself  as  to  the 
extent  and  quality  of  the  scrub  country,  in  order  to  see 'what  the  prospects 
were  likely  to  be,  in  the  event  of  my  establishing  a  business  there.  I  have 
seen  it  grow  from  nothing,  to  becoming  one  of  the  finest  and  most  important 
farming  and  grazing  districts  in  the  State,  and,  although  my  connection 
with  the  district  has  been  severed  as  far  as  business  is  concerned.  I  look 
back  with  pleasure  to  the  time  when  I  was  intimately  connected  with  it, 
and  met  many  of  the  old  pioneers,  and  gi-and  men  thev  were. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  W.  M.  ELLIOTT. 


In  the  year  lN7<s  there  wa.s  great  talk  about  the 
.s])leiidi(l  hind  and  climate  of  South  (lii)p.sland.  and 
1  determined  to  select.  I  paid  a  a  isit  to  the  district 
and  stayed  for  a  fortnight  with  Patterson  Bros., 
with  a  view  to  gaining  information  as  to  the  future 
prospects  of  those  who  determined  to  make  their 
homes  in  the  South  (Jippsland  forest.  Flvery  one 
looked  upon  the  golden  side,  they  had  great  confi- 
dejice  that  eventually,  when  cleared  and  grassed,  it 
would  be  valuable  land,  but  very  few  had  anv  actual 
experience  of  the  means  or  cost  to  put  the  land 
into  that  productive  state.  Eventually  I  deter- 
mined that  I  would  select,  and  took  up  a  block  that 
afterwards  became  well  known  in  the  (listrict.  finally 
settling  there  upon  it  in  1879. 

The  first  thing  was  to  arrange  for  a  camping 
ground.  My  next  neighbour.  Henry  Hine.  had 
cleared  about  ten  acres  the  previous  year,  so  1  de- 
cided Avith  Ills  consent  to  build  a  log  hut  on  his 
clearing.  A\'e  put  uj)  a  fairly  comfortable  hut,  sufficiently  large  to  acconnno- 
date  two  of  us.  until  such  time  as  I  could  clear  a  portion  of  my  own  block 
and  build  there.  I  let  a  contract  to  cut  ;^5  acres,  which  in  due  course  was  burnt, 
picked  up,  and  sown  down  in  grass.  In  common  with  the  rest  of  the  district, 
the  native  scrub  caine  up  again  and  again,  and  had  to  be  re-cut.  This,  to- 
gether w^ith  the  burning  oti'  of  logs  with  a  view  of  imi^roving  the  gi'azing 
capal)ilities.  occupied  all  oui-  attention.  I  then  determined  to  put  uj)  a  com- 
fortabU  hou<e.  I  secured  the  services  of  a  first-class  splitter,  an  old  Tas- 
manian  named  Kimberley.  and  as'  we  luid  some  sj)lendid  blue  gums,  he  was 
insti'ucted  to  si)lit  everything  necessary  to  erect  a  three-roomed  cottage.  This 
house  afterwards  became  the  hatching  place  of  Leagues,  deputations  and  all 
business  connected  with  the  advancement  of  the  district.  It  also  l)ecame  a 
resting  place  for  benighted  travellers  who  came  at  all  hours  of  the  night.  \ovy 
often  perished  with  wet  aixl    'old. 

I  Avas  suri)rised  one  day  by  a  \  isit  tVoiii  the  \lv\.  Mr.  S|)arliiig.  the 
Church  of  P^ngland  minister  located  at  Poowoiig.  lie  was  desii-ous  of  estab- 
lishing a  monthly  service.  I  was  only  too  glad  to  assist  him  by  placing  my 
house  at  his  disposal.  These  services  were  continued  for  about  ten  months, 
when  he  left  the  district. 

One  of  our  greatest  handica|)s  wjis  the  enormous  cost  of  cartage  and 
packing,  which  together  cost  about  tlO  per  ton.  We  were  continually  dis- 
cussing some  means  of  re(lucing  this  expense,  and  finally  detennineii  to  en- 
deavour to  cotmect  with  Anderson's  Iidet.  We.  therel'oic.  made  a  |)arty  to 
cut  a  track  to  the  sea.  viz.:  Mr.  John  (Jlew.  sen..  J.  (Jlew.  jun..  .).  (J.  AVilson 
and  myself.  AVe  started  oil'  at  7  in  the  m<»ining.  and.  working  by  compass, 
after  a  laborious  day  arrived  at  the  Inlet  at  s  o'clock  al  night.  Mr.  Ijaycock 
kindly  gave  us  a  night's  shelter.  We  retnined  by  onr  blazes  on  IIm*  next  day. 
and  decided  to  cut  a  road.  After  some  little  delay  we  formed  a  "bee."  and 
11  of  the  selectors  who  were  intei'e-.ted  tnrneil  out  an<l  we  cut  a  (rack  right  (»iil 


200  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

to  tlie  i)lains.  The  arrival  and  departure  of  the  coasting  craft  were  so  irregu- 
h\r  and  uncertain  that  it  necessitated  repeated  trips  to  ascerrain  if  the  vessel 
had  arrived.  We  had,  therefore,  reluctantly  to  give  up  our  new  means  of 
trans))ortation  and  were  comi^elled  to  continue  the  old,  expensive  way  of  get- 
ting goods  via  Poowong  by  pack  horse. 

We  found  the  gi-eatest  difficulty  in  getting  any  returns  for  our  labour 
and  capital.  When  we  started,  fat  cattle  were  very  high  in  Melboiu-ne,  and 
for  several  years  there  was  a  continuous  fall  in  values.  Store  cattle  purchased 
for  fattening  were,  after  six  or  twelve  months  grazing,  worth  little  more  than 
thev  cost.  Then  the  expense  of  getting  them  to  town,  which  occupied  a  week, 
reduced  our  average  profits'. 

My  last  venture  in  cattle  was  a  line  of  fort%'  bullocks  which,  after  keeping 
for  twelve  months,  realised  2/6  per  liead  less  than  I  paid  for  them,  all  expenses 
being  out  of  pocket. 

We  soon  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  district  Avould  never  make  pro- 
gress until  we  got  railway  communication.  ^Ve  formed  a  Railway  League  to 
work  in  conjunction  with  others  in  the  district;  numerous  deputations  were 
sent  to  town  to  advocate  our  claims.  This  necessitated  intervicAving  country 
members  and  visiting  those  residing  in  town  who  had  an  interest  in  the  district. 
All  this  meant  time  and  expense,  which  we  had  to  bear  ourselves.  Finally,  the 
Great  Southern  Line  passed  both  houses  of  Parliament,  in  conjunction  with 
many  others.  As  soon  as  it  became  known  where  the  railway  stations  were 
to  be  located,  it  became  necessary  to  get  practicable  roads  surveyed  to  them. 
]Mr.  John  Lardner.  surveyor  for  the  Lands  Department,  who  was  staying  at 
my  house  at  the  time,  advised  me  to  get  up  a  ]ietition,  signed  by  those  im- 
mediately interested.  1  acted  on  this  advice  at  once,  but  found  some  difficulty, 
as  some  objected  to  having  their  blocks  cut  up  by  roads  leading  to  the  railway 
station.  These  very  people  actually  received  more  benefit  than  most  of  us 
who  gave  the  surveyor  a  fi'ee  hand  to  take  the  best  road.  However,  we  got 
sufficient  signatures,  and  forwarded  our  petition  to  the  Surveyor-( General,  who 
immediately  instructed  Mr.  Lardner  to  make  the  survey. 

I  had  been  proposed  and  ai)pointed  as  magistrate  for  the  Eastern  Bali- 
wick,  and,  at  the  instance  of  Mr.  Mowitt,  P.M..  for  the  Central  Bailiwick  also. 
I  iield  this  commission  for  a  number  of  years,  until  I  found  I  could  not  give  it 
the  attention  A\hich  the  position  required,  and  I  therefore  resigned. 

As  soon  as  the  llailway  Bill  pas-ed  both  houses  of  Parliament,  we  Avere 
anxious  tliat  the  Great  Southern  Line  should  be  constructed  as  early  as  pos- 
sible, and  a  meeting  Avas  called,  if  1  remember  rightly,  at  Yorath's  house  to 
consider  what  steps  should  be  taken  to  that  end.  The  general  opinion  of  the 
meeting  Avas  that  if  Ave  could  only  get  the  Baihvay  C(mmiissioners  to  Ansit 
the  district,  that  Avould  go  a  long  Avay  in  support  of  our  request.  We  received 
a  hint  that  the}'  Avould  shortly  make  an  official  Aasit  of  inspection  of  the  route 
finally  surveyed,  and  Ave  decided  to  tender  them  a  baiujuet.  The  project  Avas 
entered  into  aa  ith  the  greatest  of  enthusiasm,  almost  everycme  Avithin  reason- 
able distance  expres.sing  their  Avillingness  to  lend  a  hand.  A  committee  Avas 
at  once  nominated  and  elected  to  make  all  arrangements.  I  Avas  elected  chair- 
man, and  Ave  Avere  giAen  "carte  blanche"  aJid  instructed  to  spare  no  expense. 
Contrary  to  the  general  usage,  subscriptions  floAved  in  quite  lil)erally.  and  Ave 
had  ample  funds  to  do  the  thing  properly.  A  Avorking  j^rogramme  Avas 
immediately  drawn  up,  and  Messrs.  Herring,  Parsons  and  Fuller  Avere  in- 
structed to  ride  to  Drouin  and  thenr^e  to  toAvn  to  laA'  our  invitatiou  before  the 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  201 

Commissionei's.  Tlie  Commissioners  received  our  delegates  very  kindly,  and 
thanked  them  for  our  invitation,  but  pointd  out  that  their  position  did  not 
admit  of  their  acceptino-  a  ban(|uet.  but  as  they  proposed  paying  an  official  visit 
of  inspection,  they  would  lie  very  happy  to  meet  the  pioneers  of  the  district 
through  which  the  railway  would  pass.  This  we  thought  good  enough.  Messrs. 
Yoratli  Bros,  had  a  fairly  commodious  barn,  which  we  prm^eedecl  to  decorate 
with  the  flora  of  the  district,  tree-ferns,  staghorn  ferns,  and  others  in  great 
variety,  supplejack  and  the  flower  gardens  of  the  locality  all  lent  their  quota, 
the  general  effect  was  quite  a  transformation.  Any  city  ballroom  would  be 
proud  to  make  an  equally  fairly-like  display. 

Mr.  .James  Gibb,  M.L.A..  and  Mr.  F.  C.  Ma.son.  members 
for  the  district,  were  invited,  and  also  the  leading  officers  of 
the  .-,e\eral  survey  camps  and  representatives  of  the  local  ])ress. 
The  appointed  day  arrived  at  last,  and  a  large  cavalcade  rode  towards  Loch  to 
escort  the  Commissioners  and  party  (which  included  Mr.  Richard  Speight, 
chairman  of  Commissioners:  Mr.  Green,  his  colleague;  Mr.  Geo.  Darbyshire, 
Engineer  in  Chief:  Mr.  Tulk.  Engineer  in  charge  of  the  construction  of  the 
line:  and  Mr.  Jones.  Su])ervising  Engineer:  and.  I  believe,  also  Mr.  AV.  G. 
Field  and  Mr.  T.  Gritiin.  Engineers  in  charge  of  survey  cani])s)  along  the  line, 
and  eventually  a  hah  was  made  at  Yorath's.  Mr.  James  (libb.  M.L.A..  who 
had  ahvays  taken  an  active  part  in  furthering  the  interests  of  our  railway, 
introduced  us,  and  informed  the  Commissioners  that  the  residents  were  de- 
sirous of  waiting  upon  them  as  a  deputation.  They  kindly  agreed  to  receive 
us,  and  we  pleaded  for  the  early  construction  of  the  line.  We  pointed  out 
that  no  part  of  the  colony  was  in  such  urcrent  need  of  railway  comnumication 
as  South  Gippsland.  owing  to  the  almost  total  want  of  roads.  The  few  i-oads 
we  had  Avere  mei-e  lanes  of  mud.  impassable  during  the  greater  part  of  the 
vear,  and  we  Avere  practically  de]:)endant  on  the  i)rimitive  i)ack  horse  for  all 
our  transport.  In'  reply,  Mr.  Richard  Speight,  the  chairman  of  the  Com- 
mission, said  that  Parliament,  through  the  Minister  of  Railways,  had  handed 
a  com])rehensive  railway  scheme  of  1600  miles,  extending  over  a  considerable 
part  of  the  Colony,  for  them  to  construct,  and  all  parts  thought  their  claims 
pai'aiiiount.  and  entitled  to  earlie.«:t  consideration.  lie  and  his  colleagues 
would  endeavour  to  meet  the  demands  of  all  as  fairly  as  po.ssil)1e,  and  would 
consli-nct  se\eial  lines  simuHaneously.  He  e.\i)resse(!  a(hnii-a(ioii  of  the  in- 
doinitat)le  pluck  that  inipelied  the  l)U)neer^  lo  taekU>  such  a  stupendous  task 
as  subduing  the  South  Gippsland  forest.  They  were  de.serviug  of  favourable 
consideration,  and  the  Commissioners  would  endeavoui-  to  comply  with  their 
request  as  far  as  posible.  On  !)ehalf  of  (he  (U'putation.  1  thaidced  them  most 
eordiallv  for  their  i)roniise(l  favoui"able  consideration,  and  informed  them 
that  Ave  had  aiM'anged  to  hold  a  smoke  night  in  hi)ii(>ni-  <>l"  the  (x-casion.  !Ui<l 
hoped  they  Avould  lionour  us  by  acce})ting  an  in\  itation.  .Mr.  Speiglit  replie(l 
that  he  and  his  pnrfv  would  be  pleased  to  join  ns.  Tt  went  against  the  grain 
to  demean  our  elaboiate  j)i-e))ai-ations  liy  eallinL''  it  a  smoke  night,  but  in  defer- 
ence to  the  wishes  of  the  Commissioners  we  decided  to  so  call  it  in  |)hice  of  the 
more  ambitious  name  of  banquet,  which  in  our  estimation  it  richly  deserved. 
HoAA'CA-er.  call  it  Avhat  yon  will,  it  came  off  like  "hot  cakes.'"  After  a  sub- 
stantial i-e))ast.  which  was  -.cry  acceptable  after  a  dav  in  the  saddle.  Ave  had 
speeches,  sonirs  and  i-e.itat'ons  galore,  interlarded  with  liquid  refreshments. 
Tn  shoi-t.  Ave  spent  a  verv  pleasant  evening,  and  so.  we  hoped,  did  our  guests. 
Tt  AV;is  a  <Tlorious  moonliLdil  riiirht.  and  we  contiimed  to  argue  the  point  long 
after  the  departure  of  om-  guests.  Tn  due  course,  the  contract  for  the  con- 
structioti    of   the   line    from    Dindeiioiic"   to    Korumburra    Avns   let    to   Messrs. 


202 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


A    MAN    STUMI'    CARVED    BY    THE    FIRE. 


Falkiiigham  and  Sons.  To  our  anxious  impatience  it  seemed  to  drag  its 
slow  length  along  interminably.  Any  one  of  us,  so  Ave  thought,  could  have 
completed  the  line  in  half  the  time.  However,  in  course  of  time  it  was  com- 
pleted and  opened  in  the  year  1891.  In  the  meantime,  the  land  boom  had 
inflated  and  burst,  leaving  but  a  wreck  behind.  The  whole  colony  was  prac- 
tically insolvent.  Financial  stress  gripped  everyone,  from  the  highest  to  the 
lowest.  We  anticipated  that  when  the  railway  was  completed,  our  district 
would  have  advanced  by  leaps  and  bounds,  and  there  is  no  doubt  that,  under 
ordinary  circumstances,  it  would  have  done  so;  we  suffered  with  the  rest  of 
the  colon)'.  We  had  received  no  benefit  from  the  "boom"  owing  to  want  of 
communication,  but  we  .suffered  severely  with  all  the  rest. 

But  a  district  like  ours  was  bound  to  forge  ahead  under  any  circumstances, 
and  the  dairying  industry  proved  its  salvation,  as  it  did  to  other  parts  of  the 
Colony.  It  was  not  my  privilege  to  participate  in  the  gradual  prosperity,  but 
it  gave  me  great  pleasure  to  see  the  establishment  in  the  midst  of  the  forest 
of  the  thriving  townships  of  Korumburra,  Jumbunna  and  Outtrim;  to  see  the 
dense  scrub  fall  under  the  bushman's  axe,  and  in  its  place  to  see  luxurious 
pasture;  to  see  in  course  of  time  modern  homesteads  take  the  place  of  log  and 
paling  huts;  to  see,  in  fact,  a  new  and  prosperous  province  added  to  Victoria, 
where  once  the  primeval  forest  stood,  and  to  know  that  I  had  done  my  little 
bit  towards  it. 

Xot  unalloyed  has  been  the  prosperity ;  the  pioneer's  work  is  never  done. 
In  course  of  time  the  giants  of  the  forest  began  to  decay  and  fall  during  the 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  203 

Winter  gales;  these  had  to  be  Iniined  olt'.  Ferns  became  a  constant  source  of 
labour.  In  1SJ)8  a  devastating  fire  swept  through  South  Gippsland,  ruining 
man3\  but  in  the  end  making  for  its  advancement,  and  lasl.  but  not  least,  the 
ubiquitous  "bunny"  put  in  his  inevitable  appearance.  Many  who  had  had 
considerable  experience  with  him  in  other  parts  of  Victoria  maintained  that" 
he  would  never  make  his  home  in  S(.uth  Gippsland  because  it  was  too  wet.  and 
their  theory  received  some  credence,  owing  to  the  fact  that,  for  many  j-ears. 
he  had  advanced  as  far  as  Lang  Lang  but  came  no  further.  This  was  a  fatal 
mistake,  which  led  us  to  treat  him  with  careless  inditl'erence  when  he  made  his 
appearance  about  Sea  view  and  North  Poowong.  He  had  established  himself 
about  Drouin  and  Warragul.  and  from  thence  invaded  our  country. 

Had  we  been  fully  seized  with  the  seriousness  of  the  question,  effectual 
means  would  have  been  adopted  to  keep  him,  if  not  entirely  out,  at  least  to 
have  checked  him.  But  I  have  unl)ounded  faith  in  my  erstwhile  co-workers. 
The  same  spirit  that  has  brought  the  district  to  its  present  state  of  advance- 
ment will  not  yield  it  to  the  rabbit.  Already,  clubs  are  being  formed  to  deal 
with  them  in  a  persistent  and  comprehensive  manner. 

Here  endeth  the  last  chapter.  My  task  is  nearly  finished.  Old  age,  with 
its  attendant  infirmities,  jn-ess  hare]  upon  me.  In  a  few  short  years  I  shall 
be  gathered  to  my  forefathers,  and  the  place  that  knew  me  shall  know  me  no 
more.  Before  I  depart  I  have  one  ardent  wish.  It  is  granted.  The  mantle 
of  the  Seer  en\ elopes  me.  I  stand  on  the  top  of  ''Kilynon,"  the  whole  district 
lies  stretched  out  before  me  in  one  grand  panorama.  Not  a  vestige  remains 
of  the  vast  for&st  that  once  so  stubbornly  resisted  our  labour.  Hill 
and  vale  clothed  in  verdure  as  far  as  the  eye  can  see !  From  the  vale  below 
rises  the  ploughboy's  Avhistle  and  the  milkmaid's  song!  Dairying  still  liolds 
its  sway,  and  cultivation  is  evtrvwhei-e.  Large  patches  of  maize,  rape  and 
oats  as  well  as  some  fodders  unk'uown  to  me  I  Handsome  villas  attest  the 
prosperity  evervAvhere,  scrrounded  by  flowering  fruit  trees!  The  oft  repeated 
thought  arises  in  my  memory:  "AVe  iabf)in'  for  our  children."'  Alas!  I  had 
none.    To  all  a  kind  farewell. 


Recollections   and   Experiences 


MRS.  A.  R.  SMITH. 


In  the  year  1877  my  husband  took  up  land  in  the 
Parihh  of  Jeetho  West.  He  came  up  in  his  waggon 
as  far  as  the  Bass  river  and  found  the  surveyors, 
Tucker  and  ])arty,  camped  there,  and  as  there  was 
no  bridge,  the  first  thing  to  be  done  was  to  build  one ; 
!-o  tliey  set  to  work  and  felled  a  large  tree  and  adzed 
it  otf,  and  got  one  of  our  horses  across.  Then  she 
pulled  the  logs  to  make  the  first  bridge,  and  clear 
the  road  up  to  our  land,  about  two  miles,  through 
thick  scrub  50  feet  high. 

The  first  thing  done  was  to  get  50  acres  of  scrub 

cut,  burnt   and  sown  with  grass  seed,  so  as  to  be 

able   to   build   our   first   house,   which  was  built  of 

blaclvAvood  logs.     They  split  them  in  half  and  put 

them   in    |)anels   about   six   feet   long:   they  dropped 

them  in  cleats  from  the  top  of  the  walls,  the  flat  side 

inside,    so    that     the    canvas    could    be    nailed    on 

smoothly.     AVe  did  not  have  floors  for  a  good  many 

years,  but  no  one  Ivuew,  for  the  ground  was  smooth 

and  covered.     It  was  a  good-sized  house,  one  large  room,  with  two  smaller 

ones  on  each  side  and  a  large,  detached  kitchen.    It  was  lime  Avashed  outside, 

and  looked  very  prettv  amongst  the  giant  gums,  at  tliat  time. 

I  came  up  in  Xovember ;  the  house  was  not  finished,  but  I  would  not  stay 
in  Melbourne.  I  thought  where  my  husband  was.  I  ought  to  be;  so  I  helped 
to  put  some  of  the  finisliing  toadies  to  it. 

I  shall  never  forget  my  trip  up :  the  road  from  the  bridge  was  a  sea  of 
mud,  and  full  of  big  stumps  cut  close  to  tlie  ground  (Yankee  grubbing,  I  think 
they  call  it). 

I  was  very  pleased  when  we  arrived  home;  the  new  grass,  sown  on  the 
burnt  ground,  looked  beautiful,  and  in  a  little  corner  were  some  vegetables 
growing. 

It  took  us  two  da3^s  to  come  from  Mplbourne ;  tlie  hrst  night  we  camped  at 
the  Yallock  Creek.  I  was  in  the  waggon,  driven  by  a  young  brother;  Mr. 
Smith  and  another  brother  drove  two  liorses  and  tlrays,  aa  ith  the  furnitui'e.  etc. 
We  were  in  our  sliprail  just  at  dark,  and  had  to  go  round  a  hill,  on  a  side 
cutting;  when  near  home  one  of  the  drays  capsized,  so  they  got  the  horses 
out  and  left  the  rest  till  next  day.  You  may  be  sure  Ave  slept  Avell  that  night, 
although  Ave  had  to  camp  in  the  kitchen  Avith  the  door  not  hung.  We  propped 
it  up  that  night,  and  it  Avas  fixed  up  next  day.  In  a  little  Avhife  I  felt  quite  at 
home.  There  Avere  so  many  little  birds  about  then,  and  the  lovely  ferns  quite 
charmed  me.  I  had  never  lived  in  the  country  before,  so  I  had  plenty  to  learn. 
There  Avas  the  bread  and  butter  to  malce:  and  vour  oavu  veast.  too.    We  bought 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  205 

some  cows  and  began  dairyijig;  there  were  no  .separators  then;  I  used  to  skim 
the  dishes  of  mdk  We  had  a  nice  little  dairy,  built  of  logs,  with  a  double 
roof,  and  shelves  all  round;  so  I  could  make  good  butter.  We  i)ut  it  into 
casks  and  sent  it  to  Melboui-ne  to  be  sold. 

We  had  a  very  (juiet  time  for  a  few  years.  It  was  two  years  before  I 
went  to  Melbourne  for  a  holida}'.  Sometimes  we  went  fishing  in  the  Bass  and 
Alsop  rivers;  there  were  l)eautiful  eels  and  blackfish  in  those  days.  I  used 
also  to  go  Avith  the  men  sometimes,  when  they  went  out  shooting  opossums  on 
moonlight  nights.  I  used  to  ]-ide  an  old  horse  we  had.  and  carry  home  the 
game.    We  soon  had  a  nice  rug  made  of  the  skins. 

At  that  time  our  place  was  as  far  as  it  was  possible  to  drive  a  horse  and 
trap;  all  the  roads  beyond  us  were  only  pack  tracks;  so  we  had  many  callers, 
who  were  obliged  to  leave  their  traps  with  us  and  pack  their  goods  on  horses 
the  rest  of  the  journe} .  I  remember  one  man,  his  wife,  and  five  children,  came 
to  our  place;  they  had  driven  from  Melbourne  and  camped  on  one  of  the  plains 
the  first  night,  but  did  not  sleep  much,  as  the  wild  dogs  were  howling  round 
them.  We  put  them  up  fof  the  night,  and  in  the  morning  they  put  four  of 
the  children  in  sacks  on  tAvo.'  pack  horses.  They  put  small  boxes  in  the  bottom 
of  the  sacks  and  stood  the  children  up.  and  hooked  the  sacks  on  the  pack 
saddles.  The  father  and  mother  had  to  walk  and  carry  the  baby  for  some 
miles. 

At  the  beginning  of  the  year  i8S0  Ave  had  a  "'Avorking  bee."  and  built  a 
log  church  Avith  a  paling  roof;  all  the  settlers  for  miles  round  turned  out  to 
help,  and  Ave  opened  it  in  March.  Mr.  i^au,  from  AVarragul,  came  over  (he  Avas 
a  Wesleyan)  ;  Ave  had  a  nice  service  on  the  Sunday,  and  a  tea-meeting  during 
the  Aveek.  We  Avoiulei'ed  Avhere  the  people  came  from.  Some  of  them  had 
driven  tAventy  miles  to  be  present.  It  Avas  a  great  success,  although  the  women- 
folk had  to  bake  in  camp  ovens  all  the  good  things  that  Avere  on  the  tables. 
AVe  had  a  big  l)onfire  built  up  in  the  daytime  and  lit  it  up  at  night  to  welcome 
the  people;  also  a  bush  merry-go-round  for  the  young  folks;  Avhich  is  a  long 
sapling  Avith  an  anger  hole  bored  through,  and  put  on  the  top  of  a  fiat  stump, 
Avith  a  tAvo-inch  iron  pin  put  through  several  inches  into  the  stump;  and  at 
the  ends  of  the  }K)le  they  fiattened  it  a  little  and  put  tAvo  pegs  in  to  hold  on  by. 
Then  the  young  men  got  into  the  centre  and  pushed  i(  round  and  gave  the 
girls  a  ride.  The  effect  AAas  grand.  Avith  all  the  big  trees  i-ound  and  the 
blazing  fire.  We  all  Avent  liome  very  pleased  with  our  effort.  This  church 
was  built  near  the  Bass  river,  ai'.l  Mr.  Lau  Avas  so  delighted  with  everything 
that  he  called  it  "Sunnysidc :"  that  is  how  it  got  its  name  (the  Sunnyside 
Bridge). 

The  next  lliiiiL^  to  be  done  was  to  get  a  school.  >o  we  got  our  member  of 
Parliament  to  inteivede  for  n-  (T  think  his  name  Avas  F.  C  Mason).  We 
oflei-ed  to  let  the  church  hiiilding  to  the  Education  Department  for  £18  per 
year;  it  Avas  accepted,  and  a  lady  leachei-  ai)i)oiut('d.  But,  alas!  one  morning 
she  went  to  school  and  found  nothing  but  charconl  left.  By  souu'  means  it 
got  ])urne(l  down  through  the  nigiit.  We  never  found  out  the  cause,  so  avc 
had  to  make  anothei-  stait.  Next  time  we  ])ut  up  a  weatherboard  building, 
which  is  still  intact,  hnt  not  at  Snnnyside. 

We  used  to  have  to  go  to  Lang  Lang  for  our  mail  then:  fuc  n<'ighi)our- 
hood  used  to  tnk-c  it    in  turns  to  iro. 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  '207 

One  evening  Ave  were  going  to  have  a  party,  and  just  at  sundown  a  gentle- 
man drove  up  and  said  he  Avas  Mr.  Pater,  an  inspector  from  the  Postal  De- 
Dartment,  and  asked  if  he  could  stav  for  the  night.  Mr.  Smith  said  he  Avas 
quite  Avelcome  to  do  so,  but  he  could  not  promise  that  he  Avould  get  much 
sleep.  It  proA'ed  a  good  opportunity-  for  him  to  meet  the  people  who  Avanted 
the  mail  service.  He  enjoyed  himself,  but,  like  the  rest,  he  did  not  go  to 
bed  at  all,  as  they  all  stayed  till  daylight.  After  that  Ave  had  a  loosebag  at  our 
house,  and  the  neighbours  came  for  their  letters. 

The  next  feAv  years  Avere  much  the  same,  scrub  cutting,  clearing  fires,  and 
fencing.  It  used  to  rain  more  in  those  days,  sometimes  for  weeks.  SeA'eral 
times  in  September  the  floors  of  the  bridges  were  Avashed  away,  but  as  the 
timber  Avas  cleared  the  rainfall  became  less. 

The  next  excitement  was  the  talk  about  getting  a  railway.  Some  said 
it  Avas  impossible  in  a  country  like  this,  but  after  some  agitation  surveyors 
were  sent  up  to  inspect  the  routes.  Then,  I  remember,  one  day  Mr.  Darbyshire 
and  a  party  came  along,  over  the  river  on  a  big  gum  tree,  Avhich  Ave  after- 
wards called  ''The  Commissioner's  Bridge."  After  they  decided  the  route,  we 
had  many  A-isits  from  the  railway  officials. 

I  was  the  first  Avoman  along  the  line  from  Loch  to  Jeetho.  Mr.  Smith  and 
his  brother  and  I  Avent  up  to  christen  the  falls  round  the  cutting.  We  called 
them  the  "Hilda  Falls,"  after  the  little  daughter  of  the  late  Mr.  W.  G.  Field, 
the  surveyor  of  this  section  of  the  line.  Tlie  name  Avas  sent  doAvn  and  regis- 
tered. 

Mr  Falkingham  was  the  successful  contractoi-  for  one  section  of  the  rail- 
way, viz:  from  Dandeuona-  to  Korumburra.  and  you  caimot  think  how  ])leased 
we  AA^ere  Avhen  we  first  heard  the  sound  of  the  whistle.  The  line  was  opened 
to  Loch  on  the  11th  November.  isiX).  and  it  was  the  termimis  for  six  months. 
In  1887  Ave  had  the  tOAvnship  surveyed  and  called  it  Loch,  after  our  very 
popular  Governor,  Sir  Heni-y  Loch:  following  the  survey,  a  sale  of  allotments 
took  place  in  Melbourne. 

In  the  yciu-  1880  the  State  school  was  opened,  and  in  1891  the  Mechanics' 
Institute  Avas  ojjened  by  a  grand  Concert  and  Hall,  at  which  Madame  Maggie 
Stirling  and  other  Melbotu-ne  artists  sang. 

During  the  making  ol"  the  i-ailway  many  l)uildings  were  added  to  the 
toAvnship.  and  the  postal  ai  langements  inipro\ed.  Then  came  the  lianks, 
the  Colonial  first,  then  tiie  I'nion.  which  stands  on  the  site  of  the  tirst  store. 

After  spending  38  years  of  nsefuhio^  in  Loch,  my  dear  hu>l)and  i)assed 
awav  on  .V])ril  12.  1010. 

\^'e  sow  a  little. 
We  reap  a  little, 
AVe  l»ind  our  sheaxes. 
And    lot. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  W.  C.  THOMAS. 


Hearing,  through  the  surveyor,  Mr.  Burbank, 
thai  there  was  a  piece  of  good  huid  to  the  south 
of  Whitelaw's  Track,  which  he  had  found  when 
making  his  way  to  the  coast,  we  decided 
to  visit  it.  We  travelled  by  coach  from 
Melbourne  to  Oakleigh,  train  from  Oakleigh  to 
Longwarry,  and  then  by  saddle-horses — such  as  they 
were — from  there  on.  Xe\er  having  been  in  the 
bush  before,  the  fearful  roads,  knee  deep  in  mud, 
the  rougli  shelters  and  often  the  rough  meals,  were 
altogether  a  new  experience  to  me. 

We  stayed  the  hrst  night  at  Scott's,  at  Poowong. 
In  front  of  the  store  were  twelve  bullocks  up  to 
their  girth  in  mud  trying  to  get  a  log  out  of  the 
way.  In  the  morning  Ave  started  down  the  South 
Track — I  do  not  think  it  possible  for  such  a  track 
to  be  in  existence  to-day.  AVe  passed  a  A^ery  pretty 
spot  ori  the  v>ay  to  ]M]-.  Pobjoy's.  and  a  charming 
yuung  lady  was  baking  scoiies  in  the  old-fashioned 
camp  oven.  I  was  j'oung,  and  would  have  been  content  to  stay  on  Mr. 
Holmes*  selection,  but  the  order  to  march  was  given,  and.  discarding  old 
"Charcoal.""  a  horse  which  1  was  told  was  repeatedly  sold  for  £1.  but  always 
got  back  to  the  original  owner,  as  no  one  would  keep  him  for  more  than  a 
day.  we  reached  the  hospitable  house  of  the  Polijoy  Bros,  about  six  o'clock. 
They  did  everything  possible  to  make  us  comfortable.  The  next  morning 
we  left  for  unknown  country,  and  at  night  found  ourselves  at  a  scrub-cutter's 
camp  in  the  parish  of  Leongatha ;  many  a  time  tlu'ough  that  dav  the  writer 
asked  to  be  left  behind.  Tiie  camp  was  rough,  but  the  men  were  very  kind. 
One  stripped  the  l)ark  from  a  sapling,  and  after  drying  the  inside  by  the  fire 
told  me  this  half  circle  of  bark  was  to  l)e  my  bed.  I  was  so  fagged  out  that 
I  did  not  mind  much  Avhere  I  lay,  so  got  into  tlie  bark  cradle  Avith  a  blanket. 
In  the  morning  the  bark  had  closed  round  ni  the  shape  of  a  pii)e,  and  I  had 
to  get  out  end  Avays.  In  the  morning  Ave  were  faced  Avith  a  creek.  The  sur- 
veA'or  said  the  ground  Avas  about  tAvo  miles  away,  as  near  as  he  could  say, 
and  told  us  to  folloAv.  We  saAv  him  go  doAvn  until  only  his  head  Avas  above 
water.  I  was  fresh  again,  and  folloAved:  the  other  members  of  our  party 
Avaited  our  return.  After  seeing  about  (me  acre  of  the  noAv  far-famed  '"Lyre- 
bird Mound""  property.  Ave  returned  to  INIelbourne  and  jxil  in  the  application. 

I  arriAed  in  South  Gippsland  at  the  end  of  isTS.  being  among  the  first 
to  approach  Leongatha  by  way  of  Inverloch.  or  Anderson's  Inlet,  as  it  is  noAv 
called.  Wallabies,  kangaroos*  and  Avild  dogs  Avere  in  abundance,  and  the 
TarAvin  teemed  Avith  blackfish  and  eels.  It  Avas  also  the  time  of  the  "Avoca" 
gold  robbery,  and  Wieberg  Avas  supposed  to  be  in  the  district.     Anyway,  INIrs. 

*The  kangaroos  Avere   in   the  oi)en  counlrx-  only. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  209 

AVieberg  told  lue  that  AVieberg  knew  that  I  had  a  good  giin,  and  if  ever  he 
a>ked  me  for  it.  not  to  refuse,  but  to  put  what  price  I  liked  on  it.  I  never 
had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  him.  to  my  knowledge. 

The  opening  up  of  the  country  was  very  rough  Avork.  and  we  had  to 
survey  tracks,  and  many  a  night  we  had  rough  hard  beds  after  days  of  toil. 
My  father  and  I  surveyed,  marked,  and.  where  necessary,  cleared  a  track — 
now  knov>n  as  ]Muldoon"s — -from  Leongatha  South  to  the  "Clump,"  on  the 
Wild-Cattle  L'un.  about  five  miles  from  what  is  now  Wonthaggi.  We  also 
made  a  track  for  vehicles  from  Leongatha  South  to  Anderson's  Inlet  at  a 
cost  of  about  £150.  and  on  these  tracks  Mr.  AVain.  Mr.  Clieve  and  ourselves 
ran  a  fortnightly  mail  to  San  Eemo  (30  miles)  for  the  convenience  of  ourselves 
and  a  few  settler>.  While  making  the  track  to  the  south  of  Jumbunna  we, 
on  more  than  one  occasion,  quenched  our  thirst  by  getting  water  from  the 
holes  in  the  low  ground.  Each  hole  had  a  circle  of  mtid  at  the  top,  and  we 
concluded  that  they  were  crab  holes.  For  many  days  we  carried  water  in 
billies  fi-om  "Lvre-ljird  Mound,"'  as  we  had  then  no  knowledge  that  the 
Powlett  l\i\er  was  so  near,  nor  did  we  Icnow  that  such  a  spring  existed  as  Mr. 
AVilliams  has  on  his  land  on  the  plains. 

Clearing  the  laud  was  a  fearful  task.  There  were  400  to  500  saplings  to 
the  acre,  and  bracken  ferns  10  feet  high.  To-day  there  is  hardly  one  tree 
standing,  and  the  land  is  worth  possibly  £25  y)er  acre. 

The  cartage  of  provisons.  etc.,  was  a  very  serious  item,  and  it  cost,  by 
way  of  San  Remo.  i'60  per  ton  to  land  it  on  the  selection;  now  a  train  pas.'^es 
twice  daily  within  1^  miles.  What  mistakes  we  made  I  and  how  dearly  was 
experience  bought  I  and  yet  few  gave  up  the  struggle  against  overwhelming 
odds.  Ver}''  little  sicknes's  came  our  way.  Salt  beef  was  relished,  and  we 
seemed  to  thrive  on  hard  fare.  Our  nearest  doctor  was  75  miles  distant,  and 
it  was  well  he  Avas  not  wanted  often.  Three  cases  happened  where  medical 
advice  would  have  Ijeen  welcome.  One  afternoon  a  messenger  ga\e  me  a  note 
from  a  selectoi-  about  three  miles  further  inhind.  It  stated  tbat  his  wife  liad 
died,  and  Avould  I  arrange  to  take  the  body  to  San  Kcmo  that  night  to  cMtcli 
the  steamer  at  7  o'chick  in  the  morning  so  that  she  might  be  buried  at  Dnn- 
keld.  One  couhl  mtt  refuse  such  a  request.  AVhen  the  body  anixcd  it  was 
encased  in  the  rough  timber  of  the  bush,  which  the  husband  had  niadi'  a  tier 
laying  his  Avife  out.  a>  there  Avere  no  other  women  out  their.  .\ll  through  that 
night  I  Avalked.  with  one  hand  holding  the  horse  liiid  the  other  the  hunp, 
over  plains,  througli  sciaib  and  ti-ti'ee  (hits,  all  innnade  roads.  Iloiu-  aftci' 
hour  passed  mitil  the  35  miles  had  been  traversed,  and  we  arrived  at  San  IJenio 
just  in  time  to  see  the  steaniei-  mo\e  oil'.  Tiu'  husbiuid  had  roilowcd  bchintl 
during  that  dreary  night.  The  constable  at  San  Kemo  was  in  a  dilliciiliy  : 
he  said  Ave  had  no  rijrht  to  move  a  body  Avilhout  a  doctor's  cert  ilicalc.  <)!' 
course,  Ave  had  acted  in  ignorance.  The  husband  was  anxious  to  \\:\\v  her 
buried  in  the  family  grave  at  Dunlceld.  I)ut  after  numerous  telegram-  to  tiie 
coronei"  at  Dandenong  (  I  thiidc)  he  gave  |)erniission  for  bui'ial  at  San  Keino. 
One  of  the  most  atlecting  sights  was  the  school  children  gathcicd  round  that 
lonely  irraAe.  Evidently  the  school  misti-ess  had  passed  through  trouble  her- 
self, and  she  had  let  the  children  gather  the  wild  flowers,  and  at  a  signal  they 
thrcAV  them  into  the  o]K'n  grave  and  almost   lilled  it. 

On  another  occasion  a  man  was  itionghl  to  me  who  IkkI  hail  a  tree  fall 
on  him.  Xo  one  knew  what  Avas  the  matter,  but  he  was  in  I'eai-ful  agony. 
This  meant  another  trij)  to  San  IJemo.      During  that   journey  his  cries  of  |»ain 


210  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

and  his  fearful  cursing  was  such  that  1  had  to  tell  him  that  if  he  did  not 
stop  I  would  not  go  an}'  further:  the  poor  fellow  did  his  best.  When  he 
arrived  at  the  hospital  in  Melbourne  they  found  his  shoulder  blade  broken, 
and  Ave  had  laid  him  on  his  back,  and  the  fearful  jolting  of  that  night  must 
have  meant  intense  agony  to  him. 

Just  one  other  incident  of  hardship  and  isolation.  On  this  occasion  I 
received  a  letter  from  the  husband  asking  me  if  I  would  go  for  a  doctor  for 
his  wife,  who  was  dying.  He  also  sent  a  letter  to  the  doctor,  giving  full 
details  of  the  case.  It  meant  a  ride  of  75  miles  to  Dandenong  and  75  miles 
return.  It  was  6.30  a.m.  when  I  received  the  message,  and  at  7  a.m.  I  started. 
Riding  my  own  horse  for  25  miles,  I  rode  to  a  hotel,  stated  my  errand,  and 
was  given  another  horse.  Travelling  for  another  17  miles.  I  spoke  to  a 
farmer  (Mr.  Brett),  and  he  placed  at  my  disposal  a  very  fine  horse;  it  was 
fortunate  for  me.  as  the  next  21  milas  of  road  was  more  or  less  under  water. 
The  last  place  I  pulled  up  for  a  horse  was  three  miles  from  C'ranbourne.  A 
Mrs.  Poole  kindh^  let  me  have  a  horse  for  the  last  twelve  miles.  I  reached 
Dandenong  at  6.30  p.m.,  and  on  giving  the  detail  letter  to  Dr.  Moore  he  told 
me  that  the  person  was  dead,  and  it  was  useless  putting  myself  about.  I  then 
asked  him  to  prescribe  as  if  she  were  not  dead,  and  I  would  chance  the  results 
by  returning  through  the  night.  He  called  me  a  fool,  but  after  getting  the 
chemist  to  mix  the  medicine  I  started  on  my  return  trip  at  7  p.m.,  picking  up 
the  dirterent  horses  throiigh  the  night,  and  reached  the  home  of  the  settler  at 
7  a.m.,  doing  iiie  150  miles  in  24  hours,  including  stoppages.  The  Avife  was 
just  alive,  bnt  on  giving  her  the  medicine  she  gradually  improved,  and  is 
now  one  of  the  healthiest  women  in  Melbourne. 

I  look  back  with  a  great  amount  of  pleasure  to  the  old  days  of  pioneering 
in  Gippsland,  and  am  heartily  glad  to  meet  those  who  worked  and  won,  as 
well  as  those  who  Avorked  and  lost,  in  the  desperate  struggle  Ave  had  in  the 
scA'enties. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  J.  GLEW. 

Duriiiii'  the  iiunith  of  March.  1n7S.  my  fatht-r  and 
I  joined  a  party  of  hmdseekers,  and.  takina'  the 
coach  at  the  old  Albion  Hotel,  in  Bourke->ti-eet, 
travelled  to  Tobin  Yallock.  whence  we  walked,  via 
Cherry-tree  rise  and  Tinpot  Hill,  to  Littledike's, 
where  we  camped  for  the  night,  and  made  np  our 
swags  ready  for  the  journey  south.  Our  route  was 
along  McDonald's  Track  to  the  "Mousehole  Track," 
a  narrow  pack  track  which  took  us  southwards 
through  the  selectu)ns  of  Messrs.  C.  Cook  and  E.  C. 
Holmes,  to  \\here  the  Patterson  Bros,  were  camped 
(near  Whitelaw)  in  a  fern  gully,  where  we  also 
ca.mped  for  the  night.  The  next  day  we  struck 
south,  and  after  travelling  a  mile  or  so  two  of  our 
party  turned  back.  We  others  proceeded  until  we 
came  to  what  we  considered  a  suitable  spot,  when 
the  others,  beside  by  father  and  myself,  decided 
ihat  the  diliiculties  in  the  way  of  clearing  and  the 
want  of  facilities  for  getting  on  and  olf  the  land 
were  too  great  for  them  to  face:  so  they  camped,  while  wc  traversed  the 
countr\-  to  satisfv  ourselves  that  the  country  was  good  enough  to  peg  (jut, 
which  we  did  before  we  struck  camp  the  next  day.  It  was  during  September 
of  the  ^am*^  year  that  I  went  down  to  take  possession,  immediately  after  the 
survey  was  completed  bv  Sur\evor  Hargraves,  of  the  Lands  Department, 
and  with  a  vounii-  brother  i)itched  our  tent  on  the  site  of  the  survey  camp, 
on  a  portion'of  a'bh)ck  selected  bv  Miss  Bell,  a  lialhirat  lady,  and  aile.wards 
occupied  bv  E.  K.  Herring.  We  set  to  work  scrui)-cuUing,  and  t)y  our  own 
efforts  cleared  al>out  30  acivs.  and  during  the  following  season  increased  this 
to  100  acres,  while  mv  father  ha<l  the  same  area  cleared  by  .•..nlra.'l.  Wv 
then  spt  to  w,,.:-k  \>\v]yA\\u<x  to  biidd  a  iioiise.  The  bncks  were  made  .m  the 
proDertv  the  iiml)ei  was  ^awii  bv  pit  savcyers  on  the  iidl  jnM  above  the  lioiise 
site  the  iron  b.r  the  roof  was  sent  from  the  .-ity  ent  nit.,  b.nr-tooi  l.mglhs. 
and  forwarded  to  Queen's  ferry,  carted  iVn,,;  there  m  F..,ner  s  depot  at  the 
junction  of  .MeDonahr^  Track  an<l  the  present  road  lu  I.Mrl,.  I'lom  there  it 
was  carried  on  i)ackhor>es.  which  took  two  (hiys. 

Vs  (Mir  ^tore>.  etc..  were  cost  in-:  u.^  al  the  rate  of  *:!<»  per  tmi  lor  .•arnage 
fr<mi  the  cilv.  and  hudiiiir  that  the  distance,  by  (he  i)lan  which  I  saw  at  the 
Lands  Ollice,  to  Anderson^  Iidet  measured  only  11  ^  miles,  I  decided  to  run 
a  compass  line  as  nearly  due  s..u(h  as  possible.  My  brolher-mdaw  was 
stavino-  with  me  at  the  time,  having  just  pegg<"d  out  a  block  on  which  the 
Jumbunna  coal  mine  was  afterwards  worked,  s..  I  <:nlisl<;d  his  services,  as  he 
was  rather  fond  of  adventure.  After  we  left  the  hdls  ,h.  iravelliug  b.^came 
difficult.  Tt  bein-  September,  the  swamps  were  all  lull  ot  unler.  and  at  (i  . 
hard  (lav's  stru-de  we  had  t(,  camp  for  the  n.ghl  ..n  =>  1>  =«<  i'"m  w<>  ma.  C  I. 
deckin-'two  parallel  loffs  with  snplings.  which  we  cut  oil  abov(.  the  water  h-vei. 


212 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


A   TItKi:    Is^ti      IIKJII    AXI)    ;!()fr.    I.\    (IUCIMFEKEXCE. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  213 

The  next  nioniiiig  vre  agaiii  phmged  into  the  water,  and  a  (]narter-of-an-hour 
aftenvards  Ave  struck  dry  hind.  The  remainder  of  the  journe^y  was  compara- 
tively easy,  and  we  struck  Laycoek's  (Anderson's  Inlet),  about  ten  chains 
west  of  his  house.  We  had  observed,  while  crossing-  the  open  country,  what 
looked  like  a  ridge  running  nearly  parallel  with  our  line,  and  intended  to 
return  along  ii  with  the  hope  of  finding  a  spur  that  might  prove  practicable 
for  a  road.  We  had  eaten  our  stoclv  of  provisons.  and  Laycock  was  reduced 
to  tAvo  pannicans  of  flour,  which  he  made  into  scones,  ancl  not  being  able  to 
get  provisions  neai-er  than  Kilcunda  we  had  to  make  the  return  journey  via 
Kilcunda.  Bass  toAvnship  and  Brazier's  sawmill,  and  made  the  rest  of  the 
way  home  mainly  along  survey  lines. 

A  pack  track  was  opened  up  by  Denny  and  Shaw,  who  luul  a  store  about 
3tV  miles  east  of  Brazier's  mill  on  the  Bass,  to  pack  stores  in  to  the  surveyors 
Avho  AA'ere  camped  on  Miss  Bell's  selection,  and  it  Avas  opened  up  from  there  to 
Paterson's.  It  was  a  A'ery  difficult  track  to  negotiate,  as  it  crossed  all  of  the 
spurs  running  soutliAvard  from  the  main  ridge.  I  remember  one  very  steep 
pinch  in  Frazei"'s  selection  Avhere  a  man  named  FloAvers  Avas  bringing  in  some 
stores  for  me.  and  liad  jiearly  readied  the  summit  Avheu  his  horse  lost  its 
footing  and  somersaulted  to  the  bottom.  As  the  pack  consisted  of  flour,  rice 
and  sugar.  I  did  not  receiA^e  a  great  percentage  of  each  on  his  arrival  at  my 
hut.  I  think  he  madt'  only  tAvo  trips,  after  AAhich  the  track  Avas  abandoned, 
and  A-ery  soon  became  Avorse  to  traA^el  over  than  the  survey  lines.  The  bridge 
over  the  Foster,  as  it  was  named,  soon  became  overgrown  with  wiregrass  and 
rotted  aAvay.  This  route  was  adopted  by  Denny  and  ShaAV  with  the  object 
of  reducing  the  carriage  of  stores  to  £7/10/-  per  ton  from  ^Melbourne.  It 
took  FloAvers  from  0  a.m.  to  10  p.m.  to  bring  in  the  first  consigument  froui 
the  store  to  my  phice.  By  the  old  route,  city  to  Queensferry  by  schooner, 
thence  to  Ferrier's  depot  by  dray,  thence  by  pack-horse  to  Jumbuuna  East,  it 
was  nothing  unusual  to  not  get  our  stores  for  three  months  from  the  dale  of 
their  leaving  the  city.  The  packing  distance,  reckoned  at  10  miles,  occupied 
two  days.  Ferrier  usually  made  eitlier  Fuller's  or  Pobjoy's  tlie  first  day, 
reaching  my  place  the  folloAving  day  about  '^)  ]).m.  We  then  used  the  pack 
track  opened  up  liy  Denny  and  Sliaw  tVom  Paterson's  southwai'ds. 

Messrs.  Hine.  Flliott  and  self  nfteiwaids  cut  a  ti-acU  from  Paterson's 
through  Blake's,  thence  aU)ng  Tline's  west  boundai-y  to  his  hut.  thence  ah)ng 
the  survey  line  between  Iline  and  Flliott,  and  continued  westerly  along  my 
north  boundary  for  al)out  20  chains,  tlieji  southerly  to  my  ('hearing.  AVe 
afterAvji.rds  cut  tlie  ti-ack  Avhidi  was  aftci-wards  siwxcycd  and  gazetted  as  a 
road. 

It  was  about  this  time  that  putspcctivc  scttlci-s  were  vi.'^iling  the  locality, 
but  not  any  of  them  could  make  up  their  minds  to  face  the  dilliculties  until 
the  advent  af  Afessrs.  M<T^eo(l  P>ros..  Flni'<.  Ilcriina-  and  Parsons  (who  will 
doubtless  relate  their  oAvn  experience-). 

I  recall  a  F'ootsci-ay  icsidcnl.  who  had  a  good  h>ok-  roiinl  ihc  blocl<  al'lei-- 
Avards  selected  by  I).  .McLcod.  .Vfter  a<liniring  the  IVrns  and  othei-  beauties 
as  they  were  ])re.'-ente(i  to  his  eyes,  lu'  stood  contemplatixcly  for  a  I'ew 
moments,  and  then  exclaimed,  ''My  word,  Avon't  the  old  Avoman  haxc  some 
clothes  props  if  Ave  come  to  live  down  here!"-  but  they  did  not  come.  Tt 
was  Avhile  this  gentleman  Avas  with  me  that  I  Avent  out  one  morning  to  try 
and  get  a  lyre-bird's  tail  for  him.  A\Miih'  going  along  a  gully  T  came  across 
an  old  miner's  shovel,  which  appaicntly  had  been  left  thei-e  many  years  pi'ior 
to  mA^  visit,  arid  neai-  by  \\•a-^  a   laiL'e  piece  of  coal,  while  jii^l   aboxc  was  an 


214  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

outcrop  ot"  coni.  I  reported  the  find  to  mv  brother-in-law.  and  hiter  on  to 
Mr.  Stirling,  the  (lo^ernment  (leologist.  but  nothing  was  done  with  it  till 
some  years  later,  when  the  Horslevs  had  taken  possession  of  the  block. 

Shortly  after  our  first  attempt  to  discover  a  track  to  Anderson's  Inlet, 
the  late  H.  E.  Leslie  and  I  found  blazes  going  southward  through  the  selec- 
tions of  W.  Spring  and  Miss  Shephei'd.  These  we  followed  through  to  the 
open  country,  then,  with  the  aid  of  Peter  Neilsen.  we  opened  up  a  pack  track 
along  the  line  of  blazes,  thence  aci'oss  to  my  clearing.  It  was  not  long  after 
this  when  we  received  our  first  supply  of  stores  yia  Anderson's  Inlet.  "Little 
Archie  Bees"  carted  the  first  load  from  the  Inlet  to  the  foot  of  the  liills, 
thence  Ave  took  otir  stores  to  our  respectiAo  homes  on  pack-horses,  and  by 
so  doing  effected  a  saying  of  £6  per  ton.  A  yery  amusing  incident  happened 
in  connection  Ayith  this  first  load.  Archie  got  yer}'  "coasty"  en  route,  and, 
spying  Avhat  he  thought  to  be  a  case  of  ""liquid  refi'eshment."  he  forthwith 
broached  it  and  knocked  the  head  off  one  of  the  Ijottles.  had  a  long  pull  at  it, 
only  to  discover  it  was  lime]uice.  It  Avas  some  time  after  Avhen  he  landed 
at  the  foot  of  the  hills,  and  not  haying  passed  any  water.  Avhen  Ave  met  him 
all  he  Avas  able  to  do  was  to  open  his  mouth  and  draw  our  attention  to  its 
parched  condition,  whereupon  Ave  vvent  back  to  the  creek  and  got  him  some 
water,  a  h\]]\  of  AAhich  he  despatched  in  record  time.  After  recovering  his 
speech,  he  poured  forth  a  most  aAvful  toirent  of  abuse  on  the  "criminals"  who 
had  decocted  such  droughty  rubbish,  then  fell  exhausted  alongside  "Snowy" 
and  the  other  Imllocks  of  his  team.  Avho  Avere  taking  a  "siesta"  after  their  long 
pull  oAer  the  rough  track  across  the  plains. 

It  Avas  not  long  after  this  that  the  tmited  ettortb  of  the  "Down-Sotithers" 
opened  up  a  sledge  track,  Avhich  the  Shire  Council.  Avith  a  feAv  deviations, 
widened  and  made  into  a  dray  road.  I  am  just  beginning  to  think  there  was 
a  good  deal  of  energy  expended  by  us  old  pioneers  in  opening  up  tracks  and 
in  other  ways  to  make  life  a  little  more  endurable  for  ourselves  and  access 
more  easy  for  those  who  came  later  on.  I  often  feel  sorry  Ave  had  no  amateur 
photographers.  Had  there  lieen  such  a  person  amongst  us.  a  photo,  of  the 
bridge  put  across  the  PoAvlett  River  below  Xeilsen's  Avould  have  been  Avorthy 
of  a  place  in  oiu*  albums,  also  snapshots  of  us  all  clearing  the  track — a  merry 
creAv  in  spite  of  the  hard  Avork  we  were  engaged  in. 

I  resided  at  Jumbunna  East  until  IbST.  Avhen  I  sold  the  Avhole  of  the 
property  to  Mv.  R.  Seignior.  I  think  I  can  reasonably  claim  to  be  the  first 
"resident"  pior.eer  of  Jumbunna  East,  but  do  not  think  I  had  A-ery  much 
more  Aariecl  experience  in  regard  to  pests,  sitch  as  caterpillars,  grasshoppers, 
thistles,  etc..  than  the  majority  of  my  neighbours  in  the  adjoining  parishes. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 


MR.  T.  HORNER. 


native  orass. 


In  the  year  1851  I  was  living  at  Tooradin.  This 
year  is  memorable  owing  to  a  great  fire  which 
swept  OA-er  the  country,  and  as  the  settlers  were  few 
and  scattered,  the  fire  held  undisputed  sway,  burn- 
ing grass,  and,  in  many  cases,  crops  of  oats  and  also 
homesteads  in  its  course. 

The  remarks  in  this  paper  refer  to  the  districts 
and  the  owners  of  station  runs  surrounding  AVe^tei-n- 
port.  The  owners  of  cattle  runs  to  the  north-west 
of  the  Bf.y  were  Messrs.  Manton.  Pike,  J.  Bowan 
and  Cunningham,  extending  from  Harewood.  jNIr. 
Lyall's  e>state,  to  Boolart.  near  Cranbourne.  East- 
ward of  these  blocks  wa.-^  a  large  area  known  as  the 
Yallock  Estate,  extending  to  The  Giirdies.  and  owned 
by  Messrs.  Lyall,  Meikle  and  Bakewell.  This  ji.^r- 
tion  now  includes  Yallock.  ^lononieith,  K<»owecru]>. 
Caldermeade,  and  Lang  Lang.  At  that  time  thi.- 
district  was  one  great  cattle  run.  tlie  jiasture  being 


It  Avas  thought  that  the  KooAveerup  SAA'amp  Avas  irreclainialile.  The 
country  around  Tooradin  then  AA-as  one  sheet  of  AA-ater,  Avith  duck>  and 
SAA'ans  swimming  OA^er  it.  BetAveen  HarcAA'ood  and  Tooradin.  where  the 
railAA'ay  station  noAv  is,  it  Avas  quite  common  to  ride  up  to  the  sad(ne(lai)>  in 
Avater.  IJarewood  AA'as  named  by  Mi-.  Lyall.  avIio  was  a  great  spoi-lsnian. 
He  paid  a  A-isit  to  Great  Biitain.  to  Scotland  e-^|)e(•ially.  ami  when  retui-ning 
he  brought  out  a  number  of  hares,  parti-idges  and  deer.  The  hare>  and 
deer  increased  in  iiniubcrs.  but  it  i>  suppo-cd  the  tiger  cats  killed  mII  ihe 
partridges. 

I'ntil  l>i").').  and  for  ^onie  time  a  I'tcrw  arcK.  tliri-c  were  no  hoiixvs  l»('|weeii 
Yallock  and  X\ora.  merely  station  «-atlle  running  all  oxer  tlit-  country. 
About  1870  part  of  tlie  Yallock  Est.itc  was  accuiircd  by  Me>.si>.  .McMillan 
and  (ilasscock.  There  wa.^  no  Lang  Lang  when  McDonald's  Track-  was 
surveA'ed  thi-ouirh  the  hill>. 

I  settled  where  I  now  re-ide.  ne;ir  f.och.  in  bs7'.».  coming  iVoni  (ran- 
bourne.  I  <ind  my  bi-otlier  (-ut  and  defied  a  road  over  Percy's  hill  on  tlie 
old  road  to  I^och  t(»  bring  up  the  l«idIo(-k  teams.  Provisions  were  brought 
to  the  Bass  at  Sunnvside.  and  from  thei-e  carried  to  the  settlers'  homes  in 
the  hills. 

The  late  ( leorge  Black',  of  Tarwin  Mea<Iows.  when  coming  lutme  from 
Melboui-ne  dui-ing  the  late  ."iO's  with  two  men  and  three  hoi-ses.  got  lost  at 
^  annathan  ff>r  21  days,  and  they  were  compelled  by  hungei-  to  kill  and  eat 
one  of  their  horses.  At  that  time  thei-e  wer<'  some  blacks,  about  40.  cami)e<l 
about    Vallock. 


216  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

The  people  Avere  just  as  fond  then  of  a  dance  as  they  are  now,  and 
would  walk  or  ride  miles  to  attend  one.  A  young  man  named  Ferguson 
walked  from  Caldermeade  to  the  Bass  for  his  horse  to  ride  to  a  dance  at 
Cranbourne. 

The  first  school  Avas  on  the  hill  on  the  road  from  Woodleigh  to  what  is 
called  Horner's  road  from  Loch  to  Glenalvie,  and  the  first  teacher  was  Mr. 
E.  J.  Wilson,  now  retired  from  teaching,  and  residing  near  Jeetho. 

Several  instances  have  been  known  of  Tasmanian  convicts  making  their 
escape  to  Victoria.  To  accomplish  this  they  would  steal  a  whaleboat,  by 
means  of  which  they  would  cross  Bass"  Strait,  landing  at  the  Tarwin.  and 
from  there  the}'  would  walk  to  Melbourne.  William  Smith  O'Brien,  a  leader 
of  the  Irish  rebellion  of  1848,  and  who  was  transported  for  the  part  he  took 
in  it,  v\as  harboured  for  a  time  at  The  Bass  by  a  man  known  as  Chevoise 
Templeton,  and  being  pardoned  in  1856  he  returned  to  Ireland. 

The  strawberry  clover  seed  was  found  by  Mr.  Black,  of  Tarwin,  in  an 
old  Dutch  ship  that  was  wrecked  at  the  TarAvin  in  1853-4.  This  clover  has 
made  the  Tarwin  district  famous  for  fattening  stock. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  W.  JOHNSTONE. 

When  about  eight  years  old  I  jouiiieyed.  with 
my  mother,  by  train  to  (xippshmd.  leaving  Mel- 
bourne on  the  morning  of  the  last  Saturday  in  Sep- 
tember. 1879.  My  father  mis.sed  the  train  through 
some  misunderstanding  re  the  time-tables,  so  Ave  had 
to  make  the  jourmw  as  far  as  Poowong  without 
him.  We  reached  Drouin  about  11  a.m..  and  while 
Ave  were  enquiring  for  the  mail  coach  to  take  us  to 
Poowong  a  mud-bespattered  waggonette,  drawn  by 
two  horses,  made  its  appearance,  which  we  were 
told  Avas  the  coach,  and  we  climbed  aboard.  A  cold 
bleak  wind  was  blowing,  with  rain  coming  down  in 
true  Gippsland  style.  We  got  along  fairly  well  the 
first  few  miles,  then  the  road  got  ra]>idly  worse, 
and  our  troubles  began.  Progress  became  painfulUy 
slow,  and  slower,  till  wo  reached  Clifton's  ''Half-way 
House,"  as  it  was  then  called,  drenched  Avith  rain 
and  numbed  with  the  cold.  Mrs.  Clifton  had  a  good 
meal  ready  and  a  roaring  fire  going,  which  was 
a  treat  after  the  hardship  of  the  coach  journey:  but  all  too  soon  the  cry, 
"All  al)oarcl  I''  Avas  heard,  and  we  had  to  resume  our  journey.  The  state  of 
the  AA-eather  became  AA'orse.  until  f|uite  a  hurricane  Avas  raging,  and  trees  were 
being  bloAvn  over  in  all  directions.  The  road  or  track  Avinding  tlirough  (he 
\tin)ber  country  AA^as  a  quagmire  of  mud.  in  some  places  axle  deej),  and.  to 
make  matters  worse,  one  of  the  horses  knocked  up.  The  only  other  passen- 
ger, a  surveyor,  was  obliged  to  get  out  and  Avalk  on  ahead.  He,  hoAvever, 
arrived  at  Poowong  several  hours  before  the  coach.  Darkness  overtook  us, 
and  our  jjrogvess  became  very  sIoav.  and  several  times  Avas  interrupted  by 
trees  that  had  fallen  across  the  track,  the  di-ivef  having  to  cut  them  off  the 
track  or  clear  a  Avay  round  them.  When  the  Avay  Avas  clear  lie  would  strike 
a  match,  and  my  mother,  who  now  had  the  reins,  would  diive  toAvards  the 
light.  When  the  match  would  burn  out  or  Avas  bloAvn  out  by  (he  wind,  she 
Avould  stop  until  another  light  was  shoAvn,  Avhen  she  Avould  di-ive  forward 
again,  and  so  on,  until  Ave  got  past  the  obstruction.  This  happened  several 
times,  and  avc  thought  Ave  would  never  reach  Poowong,  but  at  last  Ave  did, 
and  at  half-i)ast  1>  arrived  at  the  post  ollice  kept  by  Afi-s.  nf)rsley,  who  received 
us  A-erv  kindly,  and  soon  had  us  seated  by  a  good  fire  and  an  even  better  iiieMl, 
after  i)artaki"n2  of  Avhich  we  felt  much  bettei".  Next  day,  being  Sunday,  Ave 
had  a  good  I'est,  and  on  Monday  morning,  father  having  arrived,  he  and 
mother  and  I  started  off  on  iViol.  each  carrying  a  l)undle,  along  "pack-track," 
"Wallaby-track,"  and  often  no  track  at  all.  till  Ave  reached  Messrs.  Cover- 
dale's  place.  We  found  them  busy  erecting  a  yard  to  protect  then-  sheep 
from  the  wild  dogs  (dingoes)  at  night  time,  so.  after  a  chat  and,  what  appears 
to  be  the  usual  thing  here  in  Cippsland.  "a  cup  of  tea,"  Ave  pushed  on  as  far 
as  MattheAvs  T'>ros."  selection   (now  I).  Henry's).    There  Avas  no  one  at  honle, 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  219 

SO  Ave  pushed  open  the  door  of  the  hiU.  and  made  ourselves^  at  home,  and 
when  Mr.  Theodore  Matthews  returned  about  (birk  he  found  us  in  possession 
of  his  premises.  However,  it  was  all  right.  Mr.  MattheAvs  was  very  glad 
to  see  us.  and  made  us  most  heartily  welcome.  Coming,  as  we  did.  from  more 
ciyilised  parts,  the  log  hut  and  its  furniture  seemed  very  quaint.  The  table, 
composed  of  rough  slabs  of  wood,  had  one  of  its  corners  supported  by  a  sub- 
stantial blackwood  stump  standing  where  it  grew,  two  smaller  stumps  sawn 
off  square  at  a  conyenient  height,  with  a  slab  of  Avood  nailed  on  top.  made 
a  splendid  stool  of  the  strictly  non-collapsible  order,  and  stumps  of  various 
sizes  studded  the  floor  space.  Mr.  MatthcAvs  apologised  for  the  stumps  by 
telling  us  that  in  cutting  doAvn  a  large  bluegum  tree  about  seA^en  feet  in 
diameter  and  300  feet  high  it  fell  back  in  the  opposite  direction  to  that  in- 
tended, and  fell  across  the  hut  and  crushed  it  to  a  pulp.  The  result  was  he 
had  to  build  this  hut  in  a  hurry,  and  the  stumps  Avould  be  grubbed  out  as  soon 
as  time  Avould  permit. 

After  a  feAv  days  Ave  started  off  one  morning  to  visit  our  selection,  about 
tAvo  miles  furtlier  on.  We  followed  a  survey  line  (noAV  Sanders's  lane), 
rumiing  in  the  direction  Ave  Avished  to  go.  Through  tlie  dense  forest  Ave 
pushed  our  Avay — Ave  Avalked  along  logs,  climbed  over  logs,  crept  under  logs. 
craAvled  through  logs,  but  seldom  or  never  did  our  feet  touch  the  ground.  At 
last  Ave  came  to  an  enormous  log.  Oh.  Avhat  a  monster  I  and  father  said  that 
on  the  other  side  of  that  big  log  lay  our  selection.  Anxious  to  vieAv  the 
promised  land.  Ave  made  a  desperate  effort  and  clambered  on  top  and  had  a 
look,  and  Avhat  flo  you  think  Ave  saw? — Avhy,  more  logs.  Wert  we  doAvn- 
hearted?  Xo !  Eager  for  the  fray,  Ave  slid  rloAvn  off  the  log  and  sAvung  our 
axes,  and  in  less  than  an  hour  our  first  tree  came  crashing  doAvn.  and  the 
battle  had  begun.  Thai  Avas  thirty-eight  years  ago.  But  to-day.  what  a 
change  I  Avliat  a  transformation  I 


EETROSPECT. 

When  I  first  came  to  Gippsland.  no  seer  could  foretell. 
That  the  light-tapping  axe  rang  the  forest's  deathknell; 
It  spread  like  an  ocean,  and  rolled  like  a  tide 
Whenever  King  Stoiiu  (mi  the  trei'-tops  did   ride. 

From  the  ridge  to  the  gully  no  break  could  be  fouud, 
And  the  keenest  observer  could  not  see  the  groimd; 
P)Ui  the  axes  and  fire  great  havoc  have  played 
AA'itli  grim  forest-giant  and  lovely  iVrM-glade. 

E\ei  gone  are  (lie  giiinliccs  tiial   covered   tlic  bills. 
Ever  gone  are  the   iiee  iVi'us  that   sheltered   the  rills, 
And  gone  are  the  dells  where  1   oft   loved  to  roam 
And  bi-ing  in   wild   llowers  to  garland  my  lionie. 

Xever  more  shall  1  see  the  green  I'orc-l  again 
Wave  free  in  the  sunshine,  drooj)  sidlen  in  lain: 
Xo  more  shall  I  sway  to  each  altering  whim 
The  laughing,  the  teai'fid,  the  wanton,  the  prim. 


220  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Xever  more  shall  I  list  to  the  l3-re-birfrs  song 
That  boldl.y  he  trolled  forth,  so  clear,  and  so  strong, 
Or  listen,  mazed,  as  he  mocked  every  bird, 
And  mimicked  to  life  every  sound  that  he  heard. 

Xever  more  shall  I  wander,  awe-struck  and  subdued, 
While  the  shades  of  deep  night  on  the  forest  did  brood, 
And  feel,  when  along  those  great  aisles  I  have  trod. 
I  worshipped  alone  in  a  temple  of  God. 

But  awa}^  with  these  fancies.     'Tis  better  to-day 
Where  the  forest  encumbered,  the  children  now  play 
In  meadows  bespangled  with  flowers  whose  hue 
Is  brighter  than  those  that  the  pioneers  knew. 

Where  the  forest  delighted,  perchance,  two  or  three. 
The  present  rich  meadows  fill  hundreds  with  glee. 
Our  wives  and  our  children,  our  homes  and  our  farms 
Are  dearer  and  better  than  Xature's  wild  charms. 

20/1/1917.  — W.  W.  Johnstone. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  M.  HANSEN. 

Ill  the  yeav  I8b0,  ^liile  working  at  shipbuilding 
in  Fiensborg,  I  paid  a  visit  to  my  native  viUage 
on  tlie  west  coast  of  South  Juthind.  in  the  province 
of  81esvig,  and  while  there  intimated  to  my  parents 
that  work  at  the  shipyard  was  likely  to  be  slack, 
and  as  there  was  a  steamer  nearly  ready  to  sail  I 
would  try  sailing  again.  This  steamer,  the 
"Protos."'  was  chartered  to  take  a  cargo  of  exhibits 
from  Hamburg  to  Melbourne  for  the  Exhibition. 
Sue  was  tlien  to  take  the  hrst  cargo  of  frozen  mut- 
ton from  Melbourne  to  Loudon.  Little  did  1  then 
dream  tliat  in  time  to  come  1  should  be  one  of 
those  who  would  be  a  producer  in  that  industry  in 
after  years.  We  left  Melbourne  on  November  18th, 
and  after  a  long  and  \ery  trying  voyage  arrived  in 
London  on  January  18th,  1881.  It  so  happened 
that  there  had  been  a  heavy  storm  raging  on  the 
English  coast  during  the  preceding  days,  and  that 
no  steamers  had  arrived,  hence  there  was  almost 
a  meat  famine  in  London,  and  this  cargo  sold  at  an  average  price  of  lid.  per 
lb.  retail.  Again  Ave  sailed  for  Melbourne  with  a  general  cargo,  and  arrived 
there  on  May  2nd,  1881. 

I  had  a  shipmate  who  had  coiii'j  to  Toowong  East,  and  liis  eiuployer, 
Mr.  P.  Anderson,  wrote  to  me  ottering  work.  1  was  not  long  in  gathering 
up  my  belongings,  and  then  took  train  to  Drouin  on  September  11th.  By 
some  'chance  I  took  the  wrong  road  at  a  poiiit  about  seven  miles  from 
Drouin.  and  reached  that  ni^ht  no  further  than  the  "Half-way  Ib-use""  on  the 
Lang  Lang  Kiver,  then  kept  by  Mr.  W.  CMiftou.  Next  day  was  Sunday, 
and  it  was  raining,  but  not  daunted  I  set  oil'  for  Poowong  East.  \  ui  l*oowong. 
On  arriving  at  Poowong  about  noon  I  was  very  pleased  to  gi't  some  refresh- 
ment at  Mrs.  Holmes's.  They  kept  the  store  there  at  that  (iuie.  On  th€ 
road  to  Poowong  Mr.  W.  Treadwell  caught  up  to  me.  and  even  now  he  some- 
times I'eminds  me  of  the  si/e  of  my  swag,  which  ceilainly  iool<e(l  monstrous 
and  bulkv,  as  it  contained,  amongst  othei'  ihings.  a  feather  bed  ami  some 
bookb.  From  Poowong  I  wended  my  way  lo  the  ea-l  along  McDonald's 
Ti-ack  and  then  down  the  East  J*oowong  road.  Coming  to  where  the 
Poowong  East  Hall  now  stands.  I  met  Mr.  Ed.  Petersen,  wliom  1  iceognised 
as  a  playmate  in  Slesvig.  although  il  was  some  seven  years  since  we  had  met. 
He  was'on  his  i-oad  hom<'  from  Sun<lay  school,  and  he  helped  me  fo  caiiy  my 
burden,  and   guided   me  towards   my  de-tinalion. 

My  first  iml)res^ion  of  I'oowong  Ivisl  was  anything  but  favourable. 
Hemmed  in  on  all  sides  by  >crub  on  a  small  clearing  on  what  is  now  known 
as  the  Waterfall  Estate,  and  it  jjioved  to  be  an  exceptionally  wet  and  cold 
Spring,  so  much  so  that  we  had  a  fall  of  sn(»w  a  few  days  after  my  arrival. 
The  fTr.-t  work  performed  by  two  others  and  myself  was  digging  a  piece 
of  land  on   a   steej)   hillside,   where   there  was  sown   a   crop  of  oats,  but   while 


222  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

diiiii'ilig  thi^i  land  we  at  llie  same  time  grubbedi  out  all  tree-stumf>s  so 
thaf  the  land  wa.-^  ready  for  the  plough.  In  that  particular  locality 
it  ^YOldd  he  dilKcult  to  find  enough  level  land  to  form  a  tennis  court.  The 
hills  rise  abruptly  from  the  creeks  to  the  top  of  the  hills,  and  it  is  not  seldom 
that  they  rise  from  OOO  to  TOO  feet  above  the  creek  level.  Xo  matter  where 
one  had  to  go,  it  meant  climbing  except  m  following  a  narrow  bush  track 
along  the  creek  towards  Mr.  ByrielPs,  and  in  going  there  the  track  was 
nearly  always  muddy  either  in  Winter  or  Summer,  as  it  Avas  very  narrow, 
and  the  sun  could  not  peneti-ate  and  dry  the  surface. 

In  the  beginning  of  October  four  of  us  started  to  fell  scrub.  I  was  new 
at  this,  and  altogetlier  unaccustomed  to  the  use  of  the  axe.  Xo  doubt  I  made 
but  a  poor  show,  but  after  a  while  I  got  to  be  more  adept  and  worked 
very  hard  at  the  job  till  Christmas.  Just  then  the  Shire  of  Buln  Buln  let 
a  contract  for  clearing  scrub  off  the  Poowong  East  road  from  what  is  called 
Box's  corner  to  near  Staben's.  While  working  on  this  job  I  got  seriously 
thinking  on  the  land  problem,  and  sometimes  meditated  thus:  "If  I  am  to 
work  on  the  land,  why  not  also  try  to  get  a  piece  of  land  and  work  for 
mj^self.*'  I  had  a  talk  on  this  matter  with  one  or  more  of  my  mates  on  this 
job,  who,  by  the  wiiy,  were  all  selectors,  and  they  certainlj'  did  not  discotirage 
me  in  the  idea.  There  was  a  piece  of  land  close  to  the  Poowong  East  road 
which  had  been  forfeited,  and  for  this  I  lodged  my  application,  and  was  duly 
summoned  to  attend  a  Land  Board  at  Drouin.  There  w^as  a  rival  applicant 
in  the  person  of  Mr.  O'Connor,  and  he  got  the  land  and  still  holds  it.  I  next 
sent  in  an  application  for  the  land  which  was  ultimately  recommended  to  me, 
and  Avhich  I  held  until  December,  1909,  when  it  passed  into  other  hands. 
When  I  sent  in  m\  application  I  had  funds  enough  to  pay  the  survey  fee, 
and  it  was  not  long  before  I  started  to  fell  some  scrub.  The  first  burn  over, 
I  sowed  this  with  grass  seed  and  built  a  litit,  expecting  next  year  to  reap 
the  first  season's  grass  for  seed,  and  so  avoid  btiying  seed  for  the  next  land 
cleared,  and  perhaps  haA'e  some  seed  to  sell;  bttt  the  best  laid  schemes  o'  mice 
and  ineu  "aft  gang  agley,"  and  so  also  with  this,  -lust  when  the  rye  grass  was 
beginning  to  ripen,  the  caterpillars  appeared,  and  in  less  than  a  fortnight 
there  was  nothing  to  see  of  any  kind  of  grass,  where  it  formerly  stood  tw'O 
feet  high.  They  even  de\oiu-ed  the  foliage  of  a  plot  of  potatoes.  Xext 
season  there  was  over  50  acres  of  grass  to  stock,  and  I  invested  in  some  stock 
at  Poowong  market,  which  investment  turned  out  one  of  the  best  made  by 
me.  Besides  doing  work  on  the  land  it  was  necessary  to  keep  things  going, 
so  I  had  to  go  out  occasionally  and  earn  some  needful  cash.  Sometimes  this, 
was  done  by  working  for  other  selectors  and  at  other  times  taking  contracts 
from  the  Shire.  Amongst  the  Shire  work  was  the  side-cutting  from 
ByrieU's  to  Staben's,  about  one  mile  in  length. 

One  of  the  first  incentives  to  take  up  land  was  to  get  a  home,  also  to 
enable  me  to  work  for  myself  and  not  for  anyone  else,  and  thus  enjoy  the 
gloriotis  privilege  of  being  independent.  A  home  is  surely,  and  ought  to  be, 
a  jtlace  where  one  feels  there  is  re.-t  when  weary,  and  ]ieace  from  the  world's 
strife,  and  to  one's  self  a  s]:)ot  like  none  other  on  earth,  even  though  it  be 
ever  so  humble.  My  first  abode  was  indeed  humble  enough  for  anyone;  it 
measured  abotit  18  x  14  feet,  built  of  logs  and  thatched  with  bark — still  it  was 
a  home.  It  was  where  I  could  go  when  I  had  nowhere  else  to  go;  it  was 
wdiere  my  ideas  were  centred,  where  I  could  work  and  do  as  I  liked,  provided 
my  action  did  not  directly  or  indirectly  bring  harm  to  myself  or  others. 
Looking  into  the  future.  I  confidently  hoped  to  build  a  better  house  in  later 
years,  Avhich  was  started  in  the  early  i^art  of  1887.     It   was  not.  however. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  223 

destined  to  be  completed,  for  while  working  with  another  man  at  picking  up 
away  from  home,  the  house  caught  aliuht.  and.  Ix'fore  we  could  reach  home, 
was  destroyed.  Since  learning  to  char  our  stumps  I  have  but  little  doubt 
that  there  must  have  becu  some  wood  .<m()ulderiug.  which  eventually  set  fire 
to  the  framework  of  the  l)Uilding,  and  then  set  the  whole  alight.  This 
catastrophe  landed  me  in  a  very  serious  financial  predicament,  and  not  being 
able  to  carry  on  I  left  for  Melbourne  and  sought  work  there.  Little  by  little 
I  managed  to  pay  oil'  my  indebtedness  and  also  got  100  acres  more  land 
cleared  by  contract.  This,  however,  took  me  till  September,  1893.  During 
those  six  years  I  was  employed  at  various  work  in  Melbourne,  but  on  the 
whole  it  was  fairly  renuuierative,  so  much  so  that  I  deemed  it  uiore  profitable 
to  let  the  clearing  work  by  contract  than  to  come  and  do  it  myself.  At  first 
I  got  a  small  rental  for  the  land  cleared,  but  a  neighbour  came  who  grazed 
the  land  and  refused  to  put  up  a  division  fence;  in  fact,  at  one  time  he  took 
in  horses  to  graze  and  kept  them  m  my  paddock,  and  charged  the  owner  of 
the  horses  for  the  grass. 

In  September,  1893,  I  again  began  working  the  land  myself.  There  was 
now  about  200  acres  of  grass,  with  what  I  had  just  soAvn,  although  some  of 
the  old  clearing  had  grown  up  with  hazel  and  other  scrub.  This  I  set  to 
work  to  clear  and  burn  first  of  all.  Then  1  built  again  a  log  hou.se  and 
afterwards  added  a  skillion  on  each  side.  This  house,  however,  had  an  iron 
roof.  Then  there  was  fencing  and  yards  and  sheds  to  build,  enough  to  keep 
me  in  constant  employment  and  out  of  mischief,  and  I  did  not  get  many 
holidays.  At  fir.st  I  grazed  cattle  and  sheep  and  aimed  at  getting  some 
cows  and  then  go  in  for  dairying.  Then,  little  by  little,  I  managed  to  get 
together  a  small  dairy  herd,  until  whcu  the  great  bushfire  canir  on  February 
1st,  1898,  we  turned  out  22  cows  in  the  morning  and  next  morning  there  were 
not  move  than  12  alive,  and  out  of  430  sheep  only  a  few  over  200  were  left 
which  were  in  good  orck'r.  and  licnce  were  marketed  innnediately.  The 
i-emaining  cattle  I  managed  to  keep  alive  on  a  few  acres  of  maize  until  there 
was  grass  again.  This  fire  might  have  done  a  certain  amount  of  good  in 
burning  some  of  the  logs  and  other  timber  ofi'  the  land,  but  on  the  whoU'  it 
did  moi-e  damage  than  anything  to  those  who  had  their  land  in  fair  order. 
Even  as.snmir.g  that  there  was  15/-  worth  of  timber  bui'iied  oil'  each  acir, 
the  grass  seed  lequired  to  re-sow  woidd  cost  r» /-  per  acre,  and  the  same  amount 
to  replace  the  burned  fences,  and  more  t(<  ciil  down  the  undei-gi-owih  thai 
sjjrang  u})  after  tlie  lire;  so  that  on  llii-  hasis  there  was  an  actual  lo.s.<.  All 
the  l)nildings  and  fences  were  burned,  and  con-^iilernble  labour  was  ivqiiired 
to  replace  these.  In  my  case  T  i>laced  the  in'\\  di\isional  fences  so  as  (o 
divide  the  ploughable  hind  iVoni  tlnil  which  wie-  not  so.  ( )f  cour.se,  some 
people  hinghed  at  the  ideii.  Imt  the  lime  e;(Uie  when  they  eea'-ed  laughing  ;it 
it. 

1  lie  next  Spring  I'oiind  me  I'oiiining  the  country  in  search  of  stock.  I^'or 
about  three  weeks  T  traxclhd  m  \;(rioiis  parl^  id'  (iippsland.  and  thus  again 
secur<'(l  what  I  tlioughl  (|iiile  enough  stock  for  the  land  imder  grass.  Bui 
<he  gi'owlh  in  the  Spring  was  so  pi'olidc  that  although  most  people  had 
stocked  up  with  more  eallle  tlnin  u^ual.  the  gra^s  was.  in  many  cases,  so  long 
that  there  would  have  been  ;iiiiple  to  mow  had  this  been  pi'actieable.  That 
season  will  not  easily  be  forgotten  owing  to  the  treiiiendons  rise  in  price  of 
all  Isiiels  of  stock,  and  hence  nearly  everybody  ilid  remai'kably  well.  This 
would  al-o  hn\e  been  the  case  with  me  had  it  not  iieen  foi-  the  fact  that  a 
neiiihbonr  wIki  hnd  nboiit  •JO"  acre-,  (tf  -criib  to  liiini  next  l<i  mine,  and  in 
liniiiiiiL''  ihi~  -et    fii(    to   i)i\-  ij-i'a>--.  with   the  rc-ult    tluil    iiearh"  all    w;i-'  burnt. 


2J4  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

AVhen  1  tii)pr<)iU-he(I  him  and  asked  that  at  least  he  should  give  me  the  grass 
seed  to  re-^csv  the  buiiied  ground,  he  politely  told  me  that  it  Avas  my  fault 
that  the  grass  burned.  Being  an  old  man  he  had  sent  his  sons  to  clear  a 
firebreak  round,  particularly  on  my  side,  but  the  fact  was  they  did  not  do 
the  \\H)rk.  but  lav  down  in  the  shade  of  a  tree  instead,  while  they  were  sup- 
posed to  be  working. 

Many  people  Avere  noAv  convinced  that  dairying  was  the  most  profitable 
pursuit  on  this  land.  Most  of  us  were  also  convinced  that  the  land  after 
being  ploughed  and  laid  down  in  grass  again  would  yield  more  gi'as's  and 
that  of  better  quality.  My  aim,  therefore,  was  to  get  as  much  of  the  land 
ploua'hed  as  possible:  besides  ploughing  the  land  was  deemed  the  most  eilec- 
tive  niethod  of  eradicating  bracken  fern  wherever  they  had  got  a  good  hold. 
Many  of  us  had  neglected  to  kee])  these  seemingly  harmless  plants  in  check, 
for  instead  of  keeping  them  down,  we  devoted  nearly  all  our  energies  to 
clearing  the  forest  land.  It  was  perhaps  a  grave  error  to  destroy  all  this 
valuable  timber.  I  am  inclined  to  think  that  within  a  very  brief  period 
those  AAho  hav>^  saved  a  few  acres  of  timber  will  find  that  it  will  be  the  most 
valuable  crop  the  land  has  ever  yielded.  And  some  of  the  forest  could,  with 
care,  have  been  saved  from  destruction,  and  in  a  few  instances  this  has  been 
done.  Yet  most  of  us  deemed  it  inadvisable  to  leave  even  one  acre  of  standing 
tiimber.  iVIany  of  us  thought  that  there  was  ample  timber  to  last  for  a 
generation  and  more,  but  alas,  the  fires  killed  most  of  the  standing  timber, 
and  after  a  few  years  those  who  had  only  sa]iling  country  had  not  where- 
withal to  fence  their  holdings,  but  had.  in  some  instances  after  the  bushfires 
in  189S.  to  cart  the  needed  fencing  material  from  a  distance.  In  odd  places 
the  bluegums  have  si)rung  up  from  seeds  in  the  ground,  and  whoever  sees 
to  their  preservation  will  no  doubt,  ere  long,  find  that  even  these  few  will  be 
a  blessing.  In  Summer  they  wdl  afford  shelter  from  the  sun.  in  the  Winter 
from  the^stormy  blast,  and  finally  when  umwn  u]>.  l;e  useful  for  whatever 
purpose  the  timber  is  best  suited. 

In  the  A^ery  beginning  it  was  no  mean  task  to  get  to  our  h()l(lin<«s.  There 
were  no  tracks,  only  survey  lines,  and  these  Avere  leading  over  hill  and  dale, 
up  gradients  that  were  onlj^  negotiable  for  goats  and  such  animals.  But 
tracks  we  had  to  get,  and  eventually  got  them.  It  cost  many  a  day's  work 
even  to  get  a  rough  track.  The  nearest  clearing  to  mine  Avas  about  a  mile, 
and  to  that  place  I  cut  a  track.  On  this  track.  Avhich  Avas  only  Avide  enough 
to  get  a  pack  horse  through,  there  was  about  1-2  chains  of  side  cutting  and 
two  bridges.  It  Avas  not  until  1-2  years  after  I  had  selected  the  land  that  a 
few  of  my  neighl^ours  and  self  managed  to  get  the  Buln  Buln  Shire  Council 
to  make  a  survey  of  a  road,  and  three  years  more  before  Ave  Avere  enal)led  to 
take  a  vehicle  to  the  place.  To  get  this.  I  went  to  Drouin.  where  the  Council 
met,  to  every  meeting,  and  if  I  happened  to  lie  absent,  then  I  always  liad  a  letter 
there  to  remind  them  of  our  claim.  Up  to  the  time  we  Avere  able  to  get  a  road 
to  our  places,  aa'c  went  through  neighbour's  land  on  sufferance,  and.  in  some 
cases,  this  caused  unpleasantness  and  sometimes  hardship.  It  certainly  seems 
curious  on  the  part  of  the  Lands  Department  in  Melboin-ne  to  cause  roads 
to  be  surA'eyed  AA-hich  no  one  could  use  for  that  purpose,  for  roads  Avere  sur- 
veyed betAveen  cAcry  second  l)lock  of  land,  and  in  ninety-nine  instances  out  of 
every  hundred  these  roads  Avere  in  some  places  quite  impracticable.  Of  late 
years,  wiser  counsels  have  prevailed  in  the  Lands  Department,  seeing  that 
they  now  first  surAcy  practicable,  easy  gi'aded  roads,  and  then  survey  the  land 
so  that  all  allotments  have  a  frontage  to  these  roads.  And  this  is  noAv  done 
before  the  lanri  is  throAAu  open  for  selection,  and  thus  the  prospective  selector 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  '2-2:> 

can  see  better  the  location  and  contour  of  tlie  land.  The  roads  we  used  were  of 
the  crudest  description,  and  even  in  Summer  had  an  amount  of  mud  on  them, 
so  that  travelling  was  far  from  pleasant. 

There  were  a  few  of  those  who  selected  in  this  locality  who  had  a  little 
cash  to  start  their  undertakino;:  others,  again,  like  myself,  had  practically 
nothing  l)ut  our  strength.  Most  of  us  selected  320  acres  or  about  that  area. 
This  was  perhaps  the  gravest  mistake  of  all.  as  we  could  not  develop  this  area 
in  a  reasonable  time,  and  hence  all  the  tniimproved  land  was  in  realitj^  an  in- 
cumbrance in  many  Avays.  Had  we  selected  160  acres  or  less,  we  could  have 
developed  our  holdings  in  considerably  less  time,  and  would  have  had  more 
chances  of  enjoying  more  and  better  schools,  better  postal  facilities,  more 
social  intercourse,  with  the  correspondingly  less  isolation.  In  brief.  Ave  woidd 
have  had  more  civilisation.  With  smaller  holdings  Ave  could  haA'e  enjoyed 
advantages  such  as  feAv  can  noAv  estimate.  Still.  Avith  all  these  disadvantages. 
Ave  struggled  on.  step  by  step,  toAvards  the  goal.  Avith  endurance,  learning  to 
labour  and  to  wait. 

One  thing  Ave  had  to  unlearn  after  the  first  few  clearings  were  made; 
at  first.  Ave  felled  the  spars  only  up  to  V2  inches  in  diameter,  and  this  left  a 
(juantity  of  spars  still  standing.  Avhich  Avere  mostly  killed  by  the  fire  AAdiich 
burned  the  scrub.  Then,  the  following  >easou,  these  slu'd  their  dry  l)ark  an<l 
often  also  their  branches,  and  on  a  Avindy  day  they  Avould  uproot  and  lie  on 
the  ground.  All  this,  or  most  of  it,  Avas  dcme  away  with  by  felling  the  scrub 
to  a  gi'eater  diameter,  and  this  also  gave  a  greater  body  of  material  to  burn, 
and  caused  a  fiercei-  fire,  with  the  result  that  the  land  had  a  uuich  l)etter  seed 
bed   and  Avas  altogethei*  better  cleared. 

The  v.ork  of  clearing  the  land  Avas  very  hard,  very  strenuous,  but, 
like  all  s'uch  Avork.  it  made  our  frugal  fare  seem  good  and  tasty,  and  on  the 
Avhole  it  Avas  a  \ery  healthy  motle  of  living.  Young  men  and  boys  who 
Avorked  at  this  clearing  of  land  seemed  to  develop  and  grow  strong  and  hai'dy, 
perhaps  moi'e  so  than  if  they  had  followed  less  arduous  tasks.  In  fact.  T  am 
inclined  to  thiidc  that  young  men  aaIio  grcAv  up  under  these  conditions  in  these 
j)ai'ts  will  compare  fa\()ural)ly  in  most  resjiects.  jihysically  as  well  as  mentally, 
Avith  men  grown  up  in  many  otliei-  axocations  or  othei'  places. 

In  C)ctol)ej'.  I'.H)!).  while  bu.sv  mr.king  more  land  fitted  foi-  (he  plough, 
for  instead  of  contimially  cutting  fern.--  it  Itecame  eviiK'iit  ihat  (he  plough 
Avas  the  most  etlective  method  of  eradicating  them,  an  estate  agent  and  a 
gentleman  of  the  h'li'al  profession  came  one  day  and  paid  \\\v  a  \isit.  ^^'Q 
ended  this  day  by  llie  hi\vvei'  bnying  ww  phicc. 

Afterward.-.  I  >.pi'nt  al)oul  two  years  on  tramp  in  the  Vnited  States, 
Canada  and  PLurope.  and  on  returning  here  again  setllecj  on  n  very  small 
piece  of  land  in  Koi  iimburi-a.  It  is  only  'Mj  aci'es.  i)ul  I  am  firmly  conxinced 
that  the  small  holdings  are  by  far  the  most  pi()fitai)le  in  comparison  with  the 
larger  holdings.  This  also  seems  to  l)c  tbr  prevailing  idea  in  many  other 
j)arts  of  the  world.  As  an  instance  of  ilial.  in  l^TO  ihc  farms  in  (he  T"^nited 
States  had  an  avei'ag(>  of  270  aci-es.  and  iti  th"  year  T-UO  (he  avorngo  was 
re(lneed  to  lol   acre-',  or  rallicr  h-'.  llian  hall'  in    lO  \car-. 

In  look'ing  bade  npon  the  life  *>\'  a  pioneei'.  I  haxc  not  much  to  regret. 
Many  a  one  ha>  faicd  worse  than  I.  masnnich  that  they  came  in  Avith  some- 
thing, and  after  years  of  struggle  left  there  the  woi-se  in  health  and  also  in 
other  respects.  That  the  life  of  pioneering  did  not  by  any  means  })ring 
umningled  joy  is  cei-tain.  yet,  af(er  all.  i(  has  Iteen  my  lot  (o  come  out  of  th" 
orfleal  Avith  one  of  life's  greatest  blessings,  namely,  good  health. 


10 


The   Great   Southern   Railway. 


MR.  R.  J.  FULLER. 

One  of  the  greatest  difficulties  that  confronted  the 
pioneers'  of  the  Poowong-  and  Jeetho  district  and, 
indeed,  the  A^iiole  extent  of  country  known  as  the 
Strzelecki  Ranges  was  transport. 

McDonald's  Track  was  the  only  surveyed  road. 
The  so-called  roads,  sectional  roads,  w^ere  utterly 
impracticable.  The  Land  Surveyors  cut  tracks  in 
various  directions  to  enable  them  to  get  their  stores 
of  provisions  to  their  camps.  These  the  selectors 
widened  out  and  improved,  and,  in  many  cases, 
also  widened  out  the  survey  lines.  But  these  were, 
for  the  most  part,  so  hilly  that  they  never  could  be 
ada])ted  to  vehicular  traffic.  It  soon  became  evident 
10  the  early  settlers  that  l)etter  roads  would  have  to 
he  found  if  they  were  to  make  a  success  of  their 
inidertaking,  consequently  any  time  that  could 
be  spared  from  the  important  Avork  of  scrub  cut- 
ting, burning  off,  or  packing  stores,  seed,  etc.,  was 
devoted  to  searching  for  road  routes.  It  Avas  gen- 
erally done  on  wet  days  Avhen  other  work  w^as  impossible.  We  generally 
started  off  with  an  oil  cape  to  protect  our  shoulders,  and.  commencing  near 
home,  worked  down  the  gndlies  and  along  the  ridges  to  ascertain  the  general 
trend  and  lay  of  the  country,  which,  at  tirst.  owing  to  the  density  of  the  scrub, 
seemed  to  liave  no  sort  of  order  or  method  in  it. 

In  this  way.  we  soon  got  a  good  idea  of  the  lay  of  the  country  in  our 
immediate  vicinity.  A\hich  we  gradually  extended  farther  afield,  either  by 
actual  Avork  or  by  comj^aring  notes  Avith  our  neighbours.  Some  of  The  older 
settlers  along  the  Grantville  road  were  Aery  pessimistic  as  to  our  getting 
roads  through  the  hill  country  for  many  years  to  come,  speaking,  probably, 
from  bitter  experience. 

I  Avell  remember  a  trip  I  had  Avith  the  late  Mr.  Binding  from  the 
GrantA-ille  road  to  Tucker's  survey  camp  on  the  Bass.  I  inquired  of  him  in 
what  direction  Ave  should  probably  get  a  road  into  our  blocks  from  the  Bass. 
"Oh!'-  he  re]>lied,  ''you  needn't  expect  to  get  a  road  for  the  next  tAA'enty 
years."  I  was  more  hopeful.  I  argued  that  a  large  exteni  of  countrv  Avith  a 
good  climate  Avould  not  be  many  years  without  proper  means  of  communi- 
cation. But  I  don't  think  any  of  us  Avere  s'anguine  enough  to  ever  think  of  a 
raihvay  in  those  days.  I  had  many  conversations  aa  ith  the  surveyor-general, 
Mr.  M.  Callanan,  and  sur\'eyor  Lardner  on  the  (juestion  of  roads.  The  former 
was  very  sympathetic,  but  said,  "You  must  find  and  blaze  the  roads,  then  1 
will  have  them  surveyed."    This  Ave  accordingly  did. 

We  blazed  a  road  from  BIcav's  through  FuUerV  to  l^ooAvong.  which 
proA'ed  a  great  improvement  on  the  old  tracks.  Another  Avas  blazed  from 
Hewitt's  along  Whitelaw's  track  on  to  McDonald's  'Track:  still  another 
from  Fuller's  to  the  junction  with  the  Suimyside  road  at  Horner's. 


THE  GREAT  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY.  -IH 

A  road  bee  was  foimed,  and  we  cut  the  Jeetho  West  road  from  J  as. 
Wilson's  to  Horner's,  camping  on  the  road  works  for  over  a  week,  but  we  had 
to  let  a  contract  to  tini.^h  it. 

This  is  a  fair  .-ample  of  what  occurred  throughout  the  district.  It  was 
the  seventh  year  before  Ave  got  a  bidlock  team  to  cart  in  our  stores,  the  bulk  of 
which  we  used  in  those  days  to  get  in  once  a  year. 

Up  to  that  time,  and  for  many  years  afterwards,  over  most  of  the  dis- 
trict the  pack  horse  Avas  the  only  means  of  transport. 

The  same  difficulties  in  a  less  degree  confronted  the  pioneers  throughout 
Victoria,  and  it  soon  foimd  expression  in  a  demand  for  railway  development. 
Progress  Associations  and  Koilway  Leagues  were  formed  all  over  the  State. 
Roads  and  railways  were  the  main  toi)ics  of  conversation — railways,  es- 
pecially, were  m  the  air.  Our  district  took  up  the  cry.  and  Railway  League?; 
were  formed  at  Poowong  and  C'ruilcsion.  Messrs.  CMias.  Cook.  C:deb  Bur<-lu>tt, 
Mark  (iardnei-.  R.  J.  Murdocli  and  many  others  laldng  an  active  [)art. 

RiA'al  routes  were  freely  iiud  somewhat  acrimoniously  discussed  in  the 
local  press.  All  energy  was  at  liist  directed  towards  Drouin.  the  geneial 
opinion  being  that  we  shoiihl  have  t(»  junction  with  tlie  main  (lijipsland  line. 

Flying  survey  parties  were  at  work  all  over  the  Stale.  For  a  consider- 
able time  one  or  two  were  engaged  between  Drouin  and  McDonahl's  Track. 
We  regarded  McDonald's  'I'rack.  which  fell  away  steej)  and  abi-uj^t  on  the 
south  side,  as  an  elfectual  i)a''  to  any  connection  by  rail  with  the  southern 
portion  of  the  district,  and  therefore  turned  <>\w  attention  in  the  direction 
of  Dandenong. 

riie  knowledge  ac«|iiire(l  in  our  seai'ch  for  roads  now  stood  lis  in  good 
stead,  and  gave  us  a  good  general  idea  of  a  pos.-ilile  loiiie  lor  a  railway. 

\^'ith  the  larger  object  in  view  we  redoul>lcd  our  el]ort>.  and  soon  became 
convinced  that  a  good  route  could  be  got  down  the  .VlUop  valley  and  thence 
down  ihe  r>ass  to  Sunnyside  and  on  to  the  open  country.  The  .Vllsop  route 
was  the  watch wor*!  of  the  southern  brigade.  It  was  the  one  topic  of  con- 
versation. S()inc  laiii.»he(l  at  it.  thought  it  a  good  j<il<e:  others  were  more 
serious:   all    hoped    it    would   pro\e  true. 

Mr.  dame-  (iib!».  the  then  nieinlier  lir  Morniiigloii.  took  a  proiiiineiu  part 
in  advocat  iiii;"  the  "(ireat  Sonthciii  Line."  a-  it  wa^  -oon  christi'ued.  lb' 
Avas  glad  to  ha\c  ad\(»(ali"~  in  oiir  district  to  hack  him  up  and  strengthen 
his  IuiimL.      iJailway   Leagues  wire    roiined  all   aloni;-  the   line. 

I'oow  oiiir  liiiiig  on  lo  ihc  Lroiiiii  imilc  a-  long  as  there  was  any  hope.  In 
the  meantime.  .Mr.  Surveyor  .Montague,  in  i  ha  rue  <d'  a  Hying  survey  parly, 
had  started  at  Dandenong  and  got  a--  far  as  Jiang  Lang,  when  he  sliil'ted 
camp  to  ihe  Clien-y  Tree  i-ises  on  .\b  1  )oii;dirs  Track.  1  paid  a  visit  t<»  bis 
cam|).  and  was  v<'ry  conrteoirsly  receiveil.  lie  infornied  me  he  had  o|)en  iu- 
.structioiis  as  to  rente,  being  diiecteil  to  <ie(  a  liii<'  ihroiiirh  the  Str/elecUi 
Ranges  with  no  heavier  grade  than  I  in  I",  j  :;!  once  a<lv<>cale<|  the  .\  ll.sop 
route.  After  talking  the  mailer  over  lor  -onie  lime  he  --aid.  after  he  jiad 
tried  McDonald's  'I'rack.  about  which  he  had  re<eive(|  a  go<»d  deal  (d'  in- 
formation, he  vv(Mild  ;:<»  over  Hie  .Ml-ftj)  ronte  vvilli  me.  His  first  object  was 
to  get  thiongli  the  I'anges  lo  -how  that  il  wa^  po-sible  to  get  a  practicable 
route,     ^^'hen  the  final  survev  wa-  made,  if    1  could  show   a  better  or  cheaper 


228  THE     GREAT     SOUTHERN     RAILWAY. 

roiiio  to  construct,  lie  h;ul  no  doubt  it  would  be  adopted.  He  promised  if  he 
got  into  diiiiculties  by  y\i\y  of  McDonald's  Track  or  Bass'  valley,  he  would 
come  and  see  me  and  , so  over  the  AUsop  route.  I  felt  confident  that  I  could 
show  a  better  route  than  either  McDonald's  Track  or  the  Bass  valley.  The 
former  rose  too  abiuptly.  and  the  Bass,  although  it  showed  splendid  grades 
for  a  considerable  distance,  when  it  got  through  Coverdale's.  rose  very  abrupt- 
ly on  to  AVhitela^v's  Track.  It  was  very  difficult,  too,  getting  off  either 
lilcDonald's  Track  or  WhitelaAv's'  Track.  The  lowest  point  on  Whitelaw's 
Track,  which  must  be  crossed  if  the  Bass  route  was  adopted,  was  400  feet 
hioher  than  a  point  less  than  half  a  mile  to  the  south  which  would  be 
traversed  by  the  Allsop  route.  This  made  it  possible  to  cross  from  the 
watershed  of  the  Allsop  to  Coal  or  Coalition  creeks.  Mr.  John  Lardner, 
land  surveyor,  gave  me  valuable  information  re  altitudes  taken  during  his 
road  surveys. 

Having  no  actual  knowledge  of  the  country  beyond  Torath's,  I  saw  the 
necessity  of  examining  the  country  beyond.  Some  of  the  selectors  along  the 
proposed  route  were  not  at  all  encouraging:  in  fact,  they  were  very  pessimistic. 
""I'ou  can't  eve]]  get  a  decent  road,''  said  one,  "yet  you  think  you  are  gojng  to 
get  a  railway.'' 

One  of  the  carriers  who  on  his  four  horses  packed  a  large  pai't  of  the 
stores  and  grass  seed  into,  and  most  of  the  produce  out  of  the  southern  part 
of  the  district,  thought  the  i-ailway  agitation  a  good  joke.  With  wnat  a 
small  measure  did  they  gauge  the  future  possibilities  of  South  Gippsland. 

Peter  Shijigler,  on  Coal  creek,  gave  me  valuable  information,  and  it  was 
arranged  that  he  and  I  should  speinl  a  week  investigating  the  country  between 
his  place  and  the  TarAvin. 

We  started  off,  and  finally  found  a  fairly  good  route  near  to  the  present 
flourishing  tOA\  n  of  Leongatha,  down  the  Coal  creek  valley.  A  funny  incident 
occurred  at  the  Wild  Dog  creek.  We  were  making  for  Surveyor  Langford's 
camp  near  Palmross's.  He  Avas  surveying  blocks  in  that  vicinity,  and  we 
wanted  some  information  from  hi]n.  We  were  tired  and  hungry,  and  the 
day  was  closing  in,  when  we  struck  a  selector  who  was  milking  a  cow :  he 
directed  us  to  Langford's  camp.  After  a  brief  intervicAv  with  Langford,  we 
made  our  way  back  again  to  Phelan's,  who  kindly  offered  to  give  us  a 
shake-doAvn  for  the  night.  He  was  qtiite  out  of  meat  and  bread.  In  those 
days  the  butcher  and  baker  did  not  call  round  once  or  twice  a  week.  How- 
ever, he  set  to  work  at  once  making  scones,  and  about  9  o'clock,  when  we  Avere 
enjoying  a  hearty  meal,  who  should  come  in  but  the  j^arty  who  we  foimd 
milking  the  cow.  He  said  to  Phelan,  "They  want  some  meat;  they  have  been 
travelling  all  day;  they  Avant  some  meat."  Phelan  gave  us  AAhat  he  had — 
meat  Avas  "off'.' 

This  recalls  another  incident.  Elliott  and  I  had  been  out  all  day  iuA-es- 
tigating  the  country  betAveen  his  place  and  Coal  creek,  and  Avith  difficulty 
made  our  Avay  back  to  his  clearing  before  dark.  After  a  spell  Ave  groped 
our  Avay  to  his  hut.  tired  and  hungry.  He,  too.  Avas  out  of  bread,  but  he  had 
some  Avhole  Avheaten  meal,  and  he  set  to  Avork  and  made  some  scones.  Abotit 
9  o'clock  Ave  made  a  combination  meal,  dinner,  tea  and  supper.  The  scones 
and  butter  Avere  mosl  enjoyable;  I  ncAcr  enjoyed  a  meal  more  in  my  life, 
either  l^efore  or  since. 

Montague,  on  proceeding  Avith  his  survey,  fomid  McDonald's  Track 
impracticable.     He  tben  proceeded  up  the  Bass.     We  heard  very  favourable 


THE     GREAT     SOUTHERN     RAILWAY.  229 

reports  for  a  considerable  time:  then  thai  he  had  come  up  airaiiisl  ^Vhite- 
law^s  Track  and  was  blociced:  then  that  he  had  o-ot  throuo-h  tiie  ranire  by 
tunnellin<>-:  then  that  he  had  been  instructed  U:  abandon  the  survey  as  im- 
practicable; and.  finally,  that  he  had  struck  cami)  and  returned  to  Lane:  Lantr. 

All  the  people  along-  the  line  froui  Dandenong;  to  Lang  Lang  were  very 
impatient  at  the  delay  in  getting  tlirough  the  ranges.  They  were  afraid  the 
passage  of  the  Kailway  l^ill  through  Parliament  would  be  jeopardised.  Mr. 
James  Gibb.  ^LL.A..  \vas  also  anxious  about  the  delay,  and  informed  me 
that  the  Bass  route  involved  heavy  l>anks  and  expensive  tunnelling  through^ 
the  range,  which  put  that  route  completely  out  of  court. 

The  coast  route  which  Mr.  Montague  was  now  instructed  to  proceed  with 
would  be  of  no  service  to  our  district,  and  now  that  the  hope  of  getting  a 
route  either  bv  McDonald's  Track  or  the  Bass  had  failed.  I  hoj^ed  to  get  the 
railway  leagues  at  Poowong  and  Cruikston  to  nuike  common  cause  with 
us  to  liave  the  Allsop  route  siu^veyed.  With  that  object  I  visited  the  leaders 
of  these  leagues,  but  thev  refused  point  blank.  They  still  i>inned  their  faith 
on  either  tiie  Drouin.  McDonald's'  Track  or  Bass  routes.  1  wa>  unich  dis- 
appointed that  Mr.  Montague  did  not  come  and  see  me.  as  he  >aul  he  would, 
if  he  failed  to  net  throudi  bv  McDonald's  Track  or  the  Bass:  but.  no  doul)t. 
he  had  his  ord'ers  from' the  Department.  The  coast  route  was  easy  gouig. 
and  he  ([uicklv  <rot  as  far  as  the  Bass,  near  Westernport,  beyond  GrantvdU'. 
I  wrote  him  at  his  camp  on  the  Bass  and  received  the  follownig  reply: 

(Co])y.) 

Kailwav    Survev    Cam)), 

Bass. 

April   -Jl.    b^S3. 

Pv.  Fuller.  Ks(!. 

Sir. 

Yours  containing  sketch  of  coniitry  in  your  district  (hdv  to 
hand.  AVith  regard  to  proposed  route,  I  certainly  think  the  vallev  of  the 
Bass  the  best  for  several  reasons,  and  as  it  is  not  considered  good  enough  is 
evident  by  the  fact  that  T  ha\e  been  directed  to  ti-y  for  some  more  piMclu-al»U' 
route.  ]  wonld  point  oHt  (what  yon  no  (h)ubt  Icnow  I  presume)  thai  1  -irluiiit 
plans  and  sections  when  an  actual  survey  is  made,  aiid  the  acceptance  or 
rejection  of  anv  route  from  an  engineering  point  u['  \  icw  rests  with  my 
chiefs.  From  a  polllical  point  of  view,  yon  of  cour^e  Unow  as  much.  pr«»b- 
ably  inoi-e.  than  I  do.  Tlu'  opinion  which  I  expressed  to  Messrs.  Blew  and 
Patterson    was   certainh    ihc    re\-erse   (»l'   (  nconiagini.'    n-~   to   gelling  through 

Pobjoy'<  and  Blew's:  and   .Mi.   T.h  w  so  nnderst I.   whatever   Me.   PatleiMui 

mav  liave  thonght.  I  icgrel  .\<iii  could  ii(»t  .omc  over  to  the  camp  when  near 
FTewittV.  as.  oirtsidc  railwav  routes,  or  sinking  shop  altogether.  I  am  always 
l)leased  to  have  a  (|iiiet  talk  with  anv  liberal  minded  person,  and  shall  reinein- 
ber  our  chat  at  Cherrv  Tree  Hill  cami)  for  a  long  time  to  come.  I  sincere  y 
hope  it  will  not  be  the  last  one.  but  at  present,  and  probably  tor  some  ni«Hiliis 
to  come,  I  will  be  rather  dislanl  for  vintiuL^  We  are  having  glorious  weather 
here  from  mv  point  of  view.  \\'i^irniLr  you  every  suc.vss  in  your  neivulean 
task  of  i-eclaiming  the  .b'clho  b.re-t    iVoin  it-  inh(»spilal.le  condition. 

I  remain. 

Vi'vy    trul\     your-. 

(iFOPtiF    .MOVlAtilF. 


230  THE     GREAT     SOUTHERN     RAILWAY. 

I  then  wrote  Mr.  CJeorge  Darbyshire,  engineer  in  charge  of  railway  sur- 
veys, stating  that  I  believed  1  could  show  the  best  route  through  the  ranges  by 
wav  of  the  Allsop  valley  on  to  the  main  Strzelecki  range:  thence  following  the 
range  for  some  distance  until  the  head  waters  of  Coal  creek  were  struck,  and 
thence  down  the  Coal  creek  valley  to  tlie  Tarwin  river.  I  also  stated  that 
Mr.  ^Montague  had  promisetl  to  go  over  the  proposed  route  with  me,  but  had 
been   withdrawn   from  the  neighbourhood  without  having  done  so. 

In  reply  T  recei^'ed  the  following: 

(Copy.) 

Rail w ay  Depart ment , 

Secretary's    Office, 
Melbourne,    11th    June,    1883. 
Sir, 

Adverting  to  my  letter  of  the  2!Uh  ultimo,  acknowledging  receipt  of 
yours  under  date  24th  idem,  suggesting  a  route  for  the  Great  Southern  Rail- 
way from  where  it  strikes  the  Bass  river  to  coal  creek.  I  now  beg  to 
inform  you  that  instructions  have  been  issued  to  Mr.  ISIontague,  the  engineer 
in  charge  of  a  survey  party  in  tlie  neighbourhood,  to  ])lace  himself  in  com- 
munication Avitli  you  and  go  ovei  the  route  indicated  by  you:  he  will,  if 
necessary,  make  a  survey  of  it. 

I  have  the  honour  to  be.  Sir, 

Your  most  obedient  servant, 

P.  P.  LABERTOFCHE, 

Secretary. 
R.  J.  Fuller,  Esq. 

Framlingham  Park, 
Jeetho. 

Mr.  Montague  came  over  shortly  afterwards,  and  Ave  spent  two  days,  going 
over  the  proposed  routes  from  the  Ba^s  via  the  Allsop  valley,  crossing 
the  main  range  at  Brind's  and  Fuller's  boundaries,  thence  along  the  range, 
through  Pobjoy's,  Blew's,  Blake's,  and  Yorath's  to  thp  head  waters  of  Coal 
creek.  He  took  levels  all  along  the  line:  said  it  crossed  the  main  range 
400  feet  lower  than  where  he  crossed  it  on  AVhitelaw's  Track.  His  levels  also 
corresponded  Avith  Mr.  Lardner's. 

He  went  away  Avithout  saying  anything  definite,  but  leaving  the  impres- 
sion in  my  mind  that  he  Avould  not  report  favourably  of  the  route. 

After  Avaiting  OAer  a  Aveek  and  getting  no  reply,  I  determined  to  go  to 
headquarters.  T  srav  Mr.  James  Gibb,  M.L.A..  and  requested  him  to  in- 
troduce me  to  Mr.  Geo.  Darbyshire,  Avhich  he  did.  Mr.  Darbyshire  had  the 
character  amongst  his  officers  of  being  a  martinet,  and  I  confess  it  was  with 
some  trepidation  that  I  anticipated  the  intervieAv. 

He  received  me  very  grutfly  at  first,  in  a  manner  that  said  "What  do 
you  know  about  raihvay  routes?"  I  produced  a  sketch  of  the  proposed  route, 
and  when  he  saAv  that  it  traversed  a  portion  of  our  selections,  he  said,  "Almost 
everyone  Avho  come.s  here  advocating  a  pet  raihvay  route  runs  it  through  his 
OAvn  back  yard:  hoA\  they  are  to  get  away  from  there  they  don't  know."  This 
Avas  a  rebut!';  but  I  rei)lied, '"That  it  was  very  unfortunate,  but  I  did  not  think 


THE     GREAT     SOL'THERN     RAILWAY.  2^1 

it  sufficient  reason  to  prevent  nie  advocating-  what  1  felt  sure  wa>  tlie  best 
route  obtainable  tliroufrh  the  ranges."  He  then  went  into  details  with  me; 
called  for  Montague's  plans  and  sections,  and  put  nie  through  a  severe  cross- 
examination,  e\idently  resting  my  information  by  the  actual  survej'^s  made. 
He  gi-adually  became  more  genial  and  friendly,  and  wound  up  by  saying 
that  Mr.  Montague  had  to  carry  the  survey  he  was  engaged  in  to  a  certain 
point,  and  he  should  then  make  a  living  survey  of  the  Allsop  route.  I  asked 
if  he  could  not  send  a  younger  man  with  more  experience  of  scrub  country,  and 
suggested  Mr.  AV.  G.  Field.  I  had  previously  talked  the  matter  of  the  survey 
over  with  Mr.  Callanan,  Surveyor-Genei'al,  and  said  I  was  afraid  Mr.  Mon- 
tague was  not  favourable  to  the  route.  He  then  suggested  Mr.  Field  as  a  tirst- 
rate  man.  who  had  considerable  experience  in  the  Mirboo  district,  which  was 
also  heavy  scrub  country.  Mr.  Darbyshire  demurred  someAvhat  when  I  sug- 
gested Mr.  Field,  but  said  there  Avere  so  many  flying  surveys  being  made  that 
experienced  men  Avere  difficult  to  obtain:  but  he  Avould  endea^'our  to  send  a 
sm-A^eyor  and  camp  up  Avithin  a  fortnight. 

Three  Aveeks  had  gone  by.  and  I  began  to  be  very  anxious.  Avhen.  on  a  very 
wet  night — it  had  been  raining  heavily  all  day — just  at  dusk  I  heard  a  bullock 
Avhip  crack,  and  the  driA'er  calling  out  to  his  bullocks.  "Come  here.  Boulder: 
Gee,  StraAvberry  I"  It  Avas  Mr.  Tom  Horner  with  Mr.  Field's  survey  caui[). 
They  had  come  via  Hastings  and  (n-antville.  where  Mr.  Horner  had  taken 
tliem  in  hand  and  brought  them  on  by  bullock  team.  livery  man  was  wet  to 
the  skin.  My  father  and  sisters  being  aAvay,  Ave,  fortunately  had  four  vacant 
rooms  available  for  them  to  camp  in.  We  had.  fortunately,  killed  a  sheep  that 
morning.  They  soon  had  a  blazing  fire  and  started  cooking  operations. 
Avhile  others  roused  their  sAvags  out  of  the  Avaggon.  and  those  that  could 
changed  their  Avet  clothes  for  di-y  ones.  They  Avere  all  vei-y  glad  to  get  to 
their  destination.  As  soon  as  the  Aveathei-  cleartMl  Field  stai'ted  his  men, 
erecting  his  camp  alongside  our  dam.  while  he  aud  I  Avent  over  the  i)roposed 
route  from  the  Bass  to  '^'orath's.  I  could  see  he  was  not  very  impressed,  and 
he  said  the  country  was  very  rough.  Progress  was.  necessarily,  very  slow. 
OAving  to  the  density  of  the  scrub,  lines  had  to  be  cut  in  many  directions  and 
levels  taken,  in  order  to  discover  the  best  route.  HoAvever.  in  course  of  lime 
he  got  a  line  ihi-ough  Avith  a  grade  not  exceeding  1  in  40  by  making  a  r)()f(. 
cutting  through  the  main  Strzelecki  range  at  Brind's  north  boundary.  Mr.  W. 
G.  F'ield,  P.  Sninglei-  and  I  afterwards  went  through  along  the  route  we  had 
indicated  doAvn  the  valley  of  Coal  creek  as  fai-  as  the  Tarwin.  Here  also  the 
Engineer  got  a  practicable  line,  which  had  the  approval  of  the  Kngineei-in- 
Chief  and  the  Commissioners.  Fngineers  were  at  once  put  on  to  make  the 
permanent  survey.  Mr.  W.  (i.  Field  had  charge  of  the  ^ection  IVoni  Lang 
Lang  to  l'>rinds,' and  Mr.  Thomas  (Jiillin  that  from  Brind's  to  Koorooman. 
Mr.^Jriffin  in  making  the  i)ei-maiHMit  survey  got  what  he  consideied  a  better 
route  doAvn  the  valley  of  Coalition  creek  by  crossing  the  Whitelaw'^  Track 
s'pur  at  Korumburra.  The  lilliculties  the  engiiuvi-s  had  to  contend  agauisl  in 
making  the  trial  and  permanent  surveys  will  be  better  understood  from  the 
cost  of  clearing  the  line  three  chains  Avide.  Messrs.  Falkinghani  and  Sons' 
contract  pi-ice  for  this  alone  was  tr.OO  pcj-  mile. 

As  the  survey  |)rogressed  and  favoiuablc  reports  were  circulated,  the 
southern  selector.s  became  very  jubilant;  the  pessimists  became  advocates; 
and  the  advocates,  enthusiasts.  There  Avas  a  strong  agitation  in  favour  of 
openiiiL'  up  the  country  by  means  of  raihvays  throughout  the  Colony.  Mr. 
Duncan  CJillies.  the  then  "Premier,  formulated  a  raihvay  Scheme  embracing 
some  000  miles  of  line.     This  did  not  satisfy  members  of  Parliament.     IMu-y 


2:i-2  THE  GREAT  SOUTHERN  RAILWAY. 

wrtitiHl  on  him,  and  he  aaieod  to  extend  it  to  800  miles.  Still  they  were  not 
satisfied.  Tluxe  beyond  the  extended  lines  brought  all  the  pressure  they  could 
from  their  several  districts,  and.  fortunately,  they  were  well  supported  by  the 
public  and  the  press'. 

When  Mr.  (jillies  brought  forth  his  scheme  before  the  House,  in  one  night 
the  jn-ojected  SOO  miles  Avas  extended  to  1000  miles.  The  Cireat  Southern  Line, 
which  was  to  have  terminated  at  a  l:)lack  stump  in  Koorooman,  near  what  is 
now  Leongatha.  was  extended  to  Port  Albert,  and  so  with  many  other  lines 
throuo-hout  the  Colony.  After  events  proved  that  this  ambitious  scheme 
was  ti)o  extended  for  the  then  resources  of  the  Colony.  There  was  not  suffi- 
cient population  or  capital  to  develop  such  an  extent  of  country  served  by 
the  new  lines  in  so  short  a  time.  The  railways  for  a  considerable  time  after 
construction  did  not  pay.  Mr.  Richard  Speight  Avas  careful  to  point  out 
that  this  Avould  be  the  result:  but,  he  said,  eventually,  no  doul)t.  they  would 
pay.  And  so  it  proved.  That  railway  scheme  did  a  vast  amount  of  good 
in  developing  both  the  country  and  the  city  of  Melbourne.  During  the  last 
decade  the  revenue  fi-om  both  passenger  and  goods  traffic  has  more  than 
doubled.  Had  fares  and  freight  been  reduced  to  the  extent  they  should  have 
been,  there  is  no  doubt  that  the  country  would  have  progressed  far  more 
rapidly  than  it  has  done,  and  the  deplorable  depletion  of  the  country  popu- 
lati(m  would  not  have  taken  place. 

Tlie  bill  having  passed  Ijoth  Houses,  it  became  necessary  for  us  to  exert 
ourselves  to  get  the  line  constructed  as  early  as  possible.  To  that  end  we 
held  a  meeting  at  Mr.  W.  Elliott's,  and  I  was  deputed  to  go  to  town  to  invite 
the  Railway  Commissioners  and  our  representatives.  Mr.  James  Gibb,  M.L.A., 
and  J.  C.  Mason.  M.L.A.,  to  a  banquet.  I  was  very  gi-aciously  received  by  the 
Railway  Commissioners,  and  in  reply  to  the  invitation  Mr.  Speight  said  that 
they,  the  Commissioners,  were  not  supposed  to  attend  banquets,  but  he  and 
his  fellow  Commissioners  Avould  have  to  inspect  the  line,  and  they  would  take 
it  a;-?  a  favour  if  we  could  accommodate  them  for  a  night.  On  this  hint  we 
acted. 

Our  object  was  to  get  the  Commissioners  to  go  through  the  country  and 
see  the  deplorable  state  of  our  means  of  transport.  AVe  felt  sure  that  this 
would  induce  them  to  construct  the  Great  Southern  Line  at  the  earliest 
possible  date. 

When  I  Avcnt  to  towii.  C.  Parsons  and.  I  thinlv.  E.  K.  Herring,  rode  over 
to  Drouin  with  me.  tt  was  arranged  that  T  should  telegraph  to  them  the 
dare  fixed  upon,  should  the  Commissioners  be  good  enough  to  accept  our  in- 
vitation to  a  banquet,  so  that  they  could  arrange  Avith  the  late  Mv.  John 
Sutcliffe.  Iiotelkeeper  at  Drouin,  to  send  crockery  and  cutlery,  and  als'o  the 
necessaries.  Avhich  1  Avas  commissioned  to  send  from  town,  out  to  Avhere 
Korumbuira  noAv  stands.  The  AAdiole  district  lent  a  Avilling  hand.  Messrs. 
Yorath  Bros,  had  a  good-sized  galvanised  iron  l)uilding,  Avhich.  Avith  the  aid 
of  ferns  and  bunting,  Ave  converted  into  a  banquet  hall.  We  Avere  fortunate 
in  haA'ing  this  rough  material  Avith  which  to  Avork.  The  eventful  day  was  at 
hand.  ^[r.  R.  Speight  and  Mr.  Green,  tAvo  of  the  Commissioners  (Mr.  Ford 
could  not  leave  the  city),  accompanied  by  Mr.  Geo.  Darbyshire.  Engineer- 
in-Chief.  and  Messrs.  W.  G.  Field  and  Geo.  Griffin,  the  surveyors  of  the  line, 
made  their  tour  of  inspection.  They  spent  a  night  at  Loch.  Avhere  they  Avere 
entertained  at  Mr.  A.  R.  Smith's  residence.  The  next  day  they  had  dinner  at 
R.  J.  Fuller's,  and  then  went  on,  accompanied  by  a  cavalcade  of  horsemen, 
to    Messi-s.    "Yorath    Bros.'    residence.     There    Ave     formed    ourselves    into    a 


THE     GREAT     SOUTHERN     RAILWAY 


•233 


deputation,  introduced  by  our  member,  Mr.  James  Gibb.  and  requested  the 
Commissioners  to  have  the  Great  Southern  Line  constructed  at  the  very 
eai'liest  date.  Mr.  Speiofht  Avas  very  symi)athetic;  said  we  were  making  a 
oiand  country  for  our  chiehhen:  must  have  the  hearts  of  lions  to  tackle  it.  etc. 
There  was  no  doubt,  he  said,  that  the  railwaj^  communication  was  very 
urgently  required,  but  there  were  many  other  parts  of  the  colon}'  that  Avere 
ec[ually  i)ressing.  and  their  endetwour  would  be  to  carry  on  as  nuiny  lines  as 
possible  pari  passu.  In  the  evening  we  entertained  all  the  visitors  at  a  ban- 
quet. When  all  the  circumstances  are  taken  into  account,  we  made  a  very 
creditable  display.  Evervone  lent  a  helping  lumd.  Arthur  Pobjoy  was  our 
ychef  and  head  AAaiter.  He  had  some  experience  in  that  direction  acquired 
ill  civilisation.  "We  all  had  experience,  mostly  acquired  in  camp  life, 
which  AAC  did  not  think  good  enough  for  such  an  occasion,  and  Ave  there- 
fore df-ferred  to  him.  Looking  back  oAcr  the  inter\'ening  thirty  veal's, 
we  can  still  regard  the  result  Avith  complacency.  We  then  regarcfed  it  as  a 
chef  d'oeuvre.    We  felt  avc  had  made  a  faxourablc  impre>sioii. 

In  the  year  1SH~  the  fir.■^t  contract  was  let  for  the  consti-uction  of  the  line 
from  Dandenong  to  Korumburra  to  Messrs.  I'alk'ingham  and  Sons,  and  soon 
afterAvards  the  second  section  from  Koruml)ui-ra  to  Welshpool  to  Mr.  O'Keefe. 

The  latter  proved  much  more  energetic  than  the  former.  Avho  seemed  to 
us  to  proceed  A-ery  leisurely.  However,  it  dragged  its  sIoav  length  along, 
or  so  it  seemed  to  our  impatience,  and.  finally,  the  tAvo  sections'  Avere  opened 
on  the  same  da  v. 


AFTER     MANY    YEARS. 


234  THE     GREAT     SOUTHERN     RAILWAY. 

^\e  fondly  anticipated  that  the  completion  of  the  railway  -.vould  hare 
gi-eatl^'  enhanced  the  value  of  land  in  Sonth  Gippsland,  and  thereby  enabled 
ns  to  proceed  much  more  rapidly  with  convertino-  the  forest  to  pasture.  But 
in  the  meantime  the  boom  had  arrived.  Vast  sums  of  cheap  money  had  been 
sent  out  from  Eno;land  and  (irermany  for  investment,  which  induced  extensive 
speculation  in  land  and  l)uildino:s.  Unfortunately  for  us,  these  speculations 
were  mainly  confined  to  the  City  and  suburbs',  and  a  restricted  radius  of 
twenty  miles  or  so  from  Melbourne.  Fabulous  fortunes  were  made — on  paper ! 
Land  was  sold  mainly  on  bills  extending  over  some  years.  As  the  land  rose 
in  value  it  was  sold  again,  on  bills,  and  so  on.  many  times  repeated.  Then 
came  the  collapse.  The  first  bnye^*  wH.f>  unable  to  meet  his  en<>;agenients; 
the  second,  who  was  dependent  on  the  first,  perforce  also  failed,  and  so  on 
like  a  pack  of  cards  falling. 

We  were  too  far  removed  to  receive  much  benefit  from  the  boom,  but 
not.  Tuifortunately.  too  far  to  feel  the  effects  of  the  collapse.  Landed  property 
became  unsaleable.  Banks  and  mortgages  foreclosed.  Many  a  struggling 
selector  lost  the  reisiilt  of  many  years  of  ardent  toil  and  the  expenditure  of  all 
he  possessed.  But,  as  Byron  says,  ''When  things  get  to  the  worst,  they 
sometimes'  mend ;"  salvation  was  at  hand.  The  advent  of  the  cream  separator 
combined  with  the  refi'igerator  brought  about  a  revolution.  The  refrigerator 
opened  up  a  vast,  illimital^le  market  overseas  at  a  remunerative  price.  The 
.separator,  while  banishing  much  of  the  drudgery  of  dairying,  enabled  farmers 
to  milk  a  larger  number  of  cows  and  give  all  their  attention  to  dairying.  The 
weekly  ca.sh  returns  quickly  removed  the  financial  strain,  and  gave  Banks  and 
money-lenders  confidence.  Clearing  ^\ent  on  apace  again,  and  everyone  yearly 
extended  the  area  of  Ids  pasture,  and.  conseciuently,  the  stock  carrying  capa- 
bilities of  his  property. 

The  Credit  Foncier  Bill  was  placed  on.  the  Statute  Book  and  proved  one 
of  the  mo.st  beneficial  Acts  ever  enacted  in  the  interest  of  the  farmer.  The 
rate  of  interest  was  rapidly  brought  down  on  all  loans  from  8  and  9  per  cent, 
to  4  to  6  per  cent.,  and  the  mortgagees  became  more  liberal  in  their  charges 
and  terms.  A  rapid  advance  took  place  in  the  value  of  property.  Whereas 
land  was  .sold  as  low  as  £3  per  acre  during  the  collapse  of  the  boom,  it  steadily 
rose  to  £18  and  £20  ])er  acre.  Owing  to  a  continuity  of  splendid  seasons  in  the 
north  and  Mallee  country,  which  has  attracted  many  in  that  direction,  and 
the  bad  state  of  our  roads,  this  price  was  not  fully  maintained;  but  the  dry 
seasons  which  Australian  history  tells  us  we  must  expect,  are  bound  to  recur, 
and  land  values  in  this  district  will  again  advance.  During  thirty-eight  years, 
South  Gippsland  has  known  but  one  disa.strous  year — 1898 — the  year  of  the 
fires.     The  fluctuation  of  season  is  but  slight,  and  steady  progress  is  assured. 


The    Coal   Industry  of  South  Gippsland. 


MR.  M.  HALFORD. 

I  am  indebted  to  the  following  gentlemen  for  in- 
formation, and  ai-atefuUv  acknowledge  the  help 
of  Mr.  Reo-inahrMurrav."  Mr.  T.  Horslev,  Mr.  D. 
McLeod,  Mr.  J.  liardwick,  and  ^klr.  T.  J.  Coverdale. 
I  am  also  indebted  to  the  •'Powlett  Coal  Fields  and 
Coal  History  of  Victoria. ""  a  pamphlet  issued  in  1910. 
Although  coal  was  discovered  in  Victoria  26 
years  before  the  discovery  of  gold,  the  coal  deposits 
have  slept,  while  the  gold  fields  have  been  the  scene 
of  many  a  wild  rush,  and  wen-  fully  developed 
years  before  the  Victorian  coal  industry  was  a  real 
■fact. 

When  the  earliest  iiulications  of  coal  were  found 
in  South  (ii))i)sland,  the  country  was  covered  with 
scrub,  and  there  being  no  roads  or  tracks,  it  waa 
seldom  visited  exeept  just  along  the  coast  where  the 
first  coal  was  found. 

Such  authorities  as  Selwyn.  Mc(\)y  and  Reginald 
Murray  predicted  the  likelihood  of  i)ayable  coal 
deposits  existing,  and  their  reports  induced  various  (ioverniiients  t(»  ])ut 
down  bores  from  time  to  time,  and  also  oH'er  rewards  for  the  finding  of  a 
payable  coal  field,  but  nothing  came  of  their  etforts,  as  all  the  first  attempts  at 
milling  were  a  failure.  It  Avas  not  until  the  selector  arrived  and  staited  to 
clear  the  country  that  the  discovery  of  important  coal  seam--  was  made, 
which   led  to  the  foundation  of  the  present  coal   industry. 

In  1820  the  first  coal  was  discovered  in  Victoria  by  Wi-ight  and  W'cth- 
erall.  About  two  years  before  Wright  and  Wetherall's  discovery,  Hume  and 
Hovel!  had  led  anexpedit  ion  from  Sydney  to  southern  ^'ict<)ria,  skirtmg  Tort 
Phillip,  near  (Jeelong.  and  were  nmch  impressed  with  the  (juality  of  the 
country.  Hovell  dcdaivd  it  was  Westcrnporl  they  had  struck,  but  Hume  dis- 
puted "it.  When  '.hev  returned  to  Sydney,  Hovell  maintained  his  theory,  and 
his  descrii)tion  of  the  country  induced  the  (Jovernor  of  New  South  Wales 
(Darling)  to  send  a  ship  to  Westernport  to  take  |>ossession  with  a  number  of 
convicts^and  soldiers  under  (he  command  of  Cai)tain  Wright,  which  were 
eonvovcd  bv  II. M.S.  l-^ly  (Captain  Wellicrall ) .  Wiib  this  expcditx.n  went 
Hovell  to  show  them  the'coiintrv  he  supposed  he  had  .liscovered  tlx-re,  whicli 
he  failed  to  do.  It  was  on  thi>  exix-dition  that  Wright  and  Wotherall 
discoAered  coal. 

This  discovery  created  but  little  interest,  and  no  importance  was'  attached 
to  this  or  to  the  later  discovery  In'  Dr.  Anderson  of  the  Rock  and  Queen  veins 
in  the  same  locality.  Dr.  Anderson  ..pene.l  up  the  seams  and  forwarded  a 
sample  of  the  coalto  Sydney  in  May.  IH.'U;.  Two  years  later  Captain  (  ole 
opened  up  a  small  seam  near  what  is  now  San  Remo,  and  took  several  tonb* 
to  Melbourne.  Tn  1H47  a  coal  prospecting  as.sociation  was  formed  to  work 
the  seams  at  Cape  Pater.s(m.  but  although  a   few  bores  were  put  down,  it  was 


THE     COAL    INDUSTRY    OF     SOUTH    GIPPSLAND.  237 

not  until  ]^~)2  that  a  serious  effort  was  made  tu  pro.-speci  for  eoal  there.  Thi< 
was  directly  due  to  a  reward  of  £1000  offered  by  the  Victorian  Government 
in  September.  1852,  for  the  discovery  of  a  workable  coalfield  in  Victoria. 

Mr.  Richard  Davis,  who  went  into  the  Kilcunda-Cape  Paterson  district 
m  1842,  carefully  examined  the  rocks  on  the  coast,  and  apparently  re-dis- 
covered the  Eock  and  Queen  veins  between  tide  marks  in  a  creek  to  the  west 
of  Cape  Paterson.  He  secured  a  sample  of  about  30  lb.  weijrht.  which  he 
brought  to  Mell)()urne,  submitted  to  (Tovernoi-  Latrobe.  and  claimed  the  re- 
Avarcl. 

To  determine  whether  the  seams  extended  inhuul  Mv.  l)a\is  sank  a  shaft 
behind  the  sand  dunes  at  an  elevation  of  about  50  feet  above  sea  level,  con- 
ditional to  the  Government  paying  the  cost.  In  1858  JNIr.  Arthur  Selw}^!,  the 
Government  Geologist,  examined  the  shaft  and  reported : — Coal  3ft.  9in.  at 
53ft.  from  surface.  Coal  (with  small  partings).  1ft.  8in.  at  OTft.  lin.  from 
surface.  Total  depth  of  shaft.  95ft.  These  seams  are  identical  with  the  Kock 
and  Queen  veins,  and  settled  to  some  extent  the  fact  that  the  coal  deposits  on 
the  beach  were  more  than  a  mere  local  deposit. 

Though  ]Mr.  Davis  claimed  tlie  rewai'd  of  £1000,  it  was  some  years  before 
it  was  paul,  and  owing  to  heavy  expenses  in  the  prospecting  work  uncU'r- 
taken,  he  only  benefited  to  the  extent  of  about  £400." 

In  18.")8  attempts  to  win  payable  coal  were  made  at  Cape  Paterson. 
The  late  jVIr.  Nathaniel  Levi  \\as  the  leading  spirit  in  forming  a  com- 
pany to  work  tlie  coal  and  shi])  it  to  ^lelbourne;  2000  ton.s  were  bagged 
and  delivered  in  Melbourne  and  sold  for  35/-  per  ton.  The  coal  had  to  be 
bagged  and  carted  to  the  coast,  there  being  no  harbour.  AVhale  l)()ats  were 
usecl  to  convey  tbe  coal  out  to  larger  vessels  about  a  mile  out  in  Pass  Strait. 
An  attempt  to  use  a  small  bay  to  the  east  of  Cape  Paterson  was  made,  and  a 
tramway  was  built  to  carry  the  coal  there.  The  rough  gales  and  seas  were  too 
severe  on  the  boats,  the  port  being  too  exposed,  and  the  company  wound  up  in 
1804  after  five  years"  struggling.  Tbe  company  lost  beavily.  a  los>  of  about 
£•20.000  Ijcing  incui-red.     Air.   Levi   b)st  al)out  £7()()()  in   die  cnlcrprisc. 

ill  ]S('>.~  Mr.  .lanii's  Cai'cw  biuiid  ibc  -caui  at  tin  Kilcuuda  iiiiiic.  wbicli 
the    \\'c.~lcrnport  Coal    Co.    wa>  sub~ci|i!ciill>'    roiiiicd   1<i   work. 

The  Govermnent  in  isTO  ollercd  a  Ijouus  of  £5()()()  for  <bc  delivery  of 
5000  tons  of  cual  in  Melbouine  from  a  workal>U'  mine  in  A'ictoria.  The  com- 
pany sent  15,000  tons  to  Melboui-ne  by  ISTT.  and  claimed  ihc  rcwank  In 
1882  the  company,  after  exi)ending  £25,000  on  mining  operations,  conliactcil 
to  supply  the  Pailway  Department  with  50.000  tons  in  not  less  than  500  ton 
lots,  at  iO/-  per  ton  at  the  |)it  mouth.  AMicn  2000  tons  wei'c  rai.sed  and 
stacked  at  the  mine,  the  contract  wa>  cancelled  owing  to  the  dilliculties  met 
with  by  the  coni|)any  in  i-euio\ing  the  coal.  The  company  built  So  miles'  of 
light  railway  3ft.  (>in.  gauge,  from  the  mine  to  the  'AJiarf.  with  coal  shoots  at 
San  PeuKt.  "  1'his  cost  the  company  £30.000,  and  the  (  m)\  ernment  hail  not  paid 
the  reward  of  £5000.  The  company  then  ciiartered  a  \i'>sel  for  a  year  to 
convey  the  coal  to  .Melhouriie.  I'he  200()  ton.s  stacked  at  the  mine  were  re- 
tailed in  Melbourne  in  10()  :iiid  2(/0  ton  lots.  The  dilliculty  of  keeping  the 
ves-^el  permanently  in  iIk'  li'ade  resnlte(l  in  a  loss  on  the  year's  transactions, 
and  tbe  conipaux-  ceji-'d  opciaiioiis,  altliongh  f'oi'  some  years  aflerwai-ds  small 
qtuuitities  of  coal   were  won   lor  local  i'C(iniremenl.~. 


238  THE     COAL    INDUSTRY    OF     SOUTH    GIPPSLAND. 

Hixlinott'.s  seam.  '^I't.  thick,  possibly  a  continuation  of  the  Kilcuncla 
seam,  ^va■^  found  in  1891.  In  lUOC)  the  sending  of  coal  from  this  mine  to 
Melbourne  via  San  Kemo  was  started,  and  close  on  1000  tons  Avere  sent  in  this 
way. 

The  Coal  Creek  seam  was  first  discovered  in  1872-3  by  James  Brown 
while  prospecting.  He  left  Stockyard  Creek  (P^oster)  for  Anderson's  Inlet, 
thence  through  the  Strzelecki  ranges,  coming  out  at  Bunyip  after  a  week  of 
semi-starvation.  It  was  while  on  this  journey  that  he  found  the  Coal  Creek 
seam. 

In  1883  the  Coal  Creek  syndicate  was  formed  to  prospect  for  coal  in  the 
Korvimburra  district,  and  in  1889  the  Proprietary  Company  was  formed  to 
work  the  deposits.  The  Coal  Creek  mine  proved  to  be  the  first  profitable  coal 
mine  in  ^'^ictoria.  The  usual  diHiculties  of  a  pioneer  mine  were  encountered. 
On  the  completion  of  the  Creat  Southei-n  Railway  the  company  found  they 
were  forced  to  build  a  traniAvay  from  the  mine  to  the  (xreat  Southern  line, 
their  mine  being  more  than  10  chains  from  the  line,  which  was  outside  the 
limit  allowed  by  the  Act  for  the  Government  to  undertake  the  work.  The 
company  let  the  contract  to  build  the  tramway  to  Mr.  Michael  Starr.  It  cost 
the  company  £1357/2/6  up  to  the  time  the  Government  took  over  the  line. 
The  railway  to  the  mine  Avas  opened  for  traiKc  on  the  28th  of  October,  1892. 
Under  the  original  manager.  Mr.  Hardwick,  the  i)rofits  from  the  mine,  after 
paying  for  the  cost  of  the  tramway  and  the  early  cost  of  clearing,  fencing, 
etc..  enabled  the  company  to  pa\'  £2(),500  in  dividends  from  the  opening  of  the 
raihvay  to  the  31st  of  ()ctober,'l895. 

In  1909  the  Austral  Company  Avas  formed,  and  Avorked  the  old  Black 
Diamond  mine,  oi'iginally  worked  by  the  Coal  Creek  Company.  The  coal 
from  this  mine  is  of  excellent  quality. 

The  outpnt  from  the  Coal  Creek  mine  in  1910  reached  10,968  tons. 

The  Austral  mine  output  in  1909  >v;is  10,631  tons. 

The  Silkstone  mine.  Avhich  Avas  worked  for  some  years  in  the  Korum- 
burra  district,  produced  7565  tons  in  1907. 

The  discovery  of  the  flumbunna  seam  in  1890  by  Mr.  T.  W.  Horsley 
brought  the  possibilities  of  the  \  ictorian  coal  industry  prominently  before 
the  public.  The  coal  Avas  brought  to  the  Governor  of  the  Victorian  Mint, 
who  pronounced  it  of  first  class  quality,  and  it  lias  proA^ed  itself  the  best  house- 
hold coal  on  the  market.  The  Jmnbunna  Coal  Company  was  formed  in 
November,  1890,  and  operations  Avere  started  in  1894. 

The  folloAving  account  of  the  discovery  of  the  Juml)unna  seam  and  par- 
ticulars of  the  mine  are  supi)lied  by  Mr.  Horsley: — 

'"The  first  discovery  of  coal  in  the  above  district  was  made  by  myself  in 
the  month  of  May.  1890,  Avhile  engaged  in  sowing  grass  seed  on  some  neAvly- 
cleared  land.  This  proAed  to  be  the  forerunner  of  other  discoveries  in  the 
Outtrim  and  Korumburra  districts. 

The  discovery  did  not  seem  to  me  to  be  of  much  imi)ortance  at  the  time, 
and  it  w'as  two  month.s  later  before  I  did  anything  to  prove  the  thickness  of 
the  seam,  Avhich.  to  my  surprise,  turned  out  to  be  -tft.  6in.  This  seam  is  noAV 
knoAvn  as  the  Jumbunna  seam,  and  it  has  been  Avorked  by  the  Jumbunna  Coal 
Co.  since  1894.  in  A])i-il  of  which  year  the  first  coal  left  the  mine.     1   and  a 


THE     COAL    INDUSTRY    OF    SOUTH     GIPPSLAND.  239 

man  named  Aikman  had  the  honour  of  hewing  the  first  coal  in  the  district, 
the  tools  we  used  being  an  axe  and  a  spade,  no  pick  being  available. 

As  to  the  development  of  the  industry,  the  ditt'erent  companies  engaged 
in  it  have  had  many  "ups"'  and  "downs,''  and  have  met  with  varying  success, 
the  chief  obstacles  to  progress  being  the  faulty  nature  of  the  country  and  the 
ever-recurring  labour  troubles  associated  with  the  industry. 

A  few  facts  and  figures  in  connection  with  the  Jumbujina  Co.,  in  which 
I  am  chiefly  interested.  Avill  give  some  idea  as  to  the  amount  of  money  cir- 
culated, and  the  vahie  of  the  industry  to  the  country: — 

The  comi^any  was  foi-med  in  November.  1800.  The  total  quantity  of  coal 
mined  to  date  (March.  10l:^>)  is  1.189.081  tons.  The  amount  paid  in  "wages  is 
£518.047.  The  amount  spent  in  machinery  and  plant  is  £'(>:^>.8.")0.  The  total 
amount  of  dividends  paicl  to  date  is  £3<*).()()().  The  cost  of  boring  £'4-105.  The 
greatest  number  of  men  employed  at  one  time  is  800.  The  first  manager  was 
Mr.  Thos.  Briggs.  and  the  first  tunnel  was  put  in  l»y  ^fr.  John  Ridley,  who 
subsequently  managed   the  mine. 

"When  one  considers  that  the  above  figures  refer  to  one  company  only, 
and  that  there  are  others  that  have  paid  in  wages  and  spent  in  machinery 
larger  amounts,  one  must  agree  with  me  that  the  discovery  of  coal  and  its 
development  has  been  one  of  the  chief  aids  to  tlie  pi-ogress  of  our  district. 

As  profitable  mining  was  impossible  without  railway  communication  to 
market  the  coal,  the  company  approached  the  (Jovernment  for  railway  facili- 
ties. The  (irovernnient  agreed  to  construct  a  line  of  railway  four  miles  in 
length  from  Ivorunibuira  lo  :i  ])oint  on  the  conii^any's  proi)ei'ty  about  a  mile 
from  the  mine  and  •>()()  feet  al)o\<^  the  i)it's  mouth,  on  condition  that  the  com- 
pany buy  all  the  land  re(|uire(l  and  transfer  it  to  the  (lovei-nnieut.  which  was 
done.  On  the  recouimendaiion  of  the  late  Mr.  II.  K.  Mais,  the  consulting  en- 
gineer to  the  c-.)nipany.  to  carry  the  coal  to  the  railway  line,  the  ('onq)any  con- 
structed an  aerial  cable  line  8ji  chains  in  length,  costing  t':2580,  and  the  neces- 
sary adjuncts,  costing  £705/10/4.  with  a  cajiacity  of  carrying  -JC)!)  to  'J80  tons 
per  day  of  eight  hours.  It  was  built  by  the  ()tis  Co.  'I'he  lir^l  log  of  the 
trestles  was  laid  on  the  loth  .Tauuary.  1894.  and  on  May  .'tli.  1S!»4,  llie  aerial 
line  Avas  opened  for  traHic.  The  company  conxeycd  I.'iO  ion>  of  coal  per  day 
over  the  line  The  coal  ti-axclled  in  ciiges  susj)en(led  from  a  cable  ingeniously 
going  rouud  the  trestles  siqjporliui.'  it.  On  a  steep  poi-lion  of  the  liue  with  a 
gl'ade  of  1  in  5.  fioiuently  the  cage's  grip  of  the  cable  wei-e  not  strong  enough, 
and  a  cage  bolting  would  often  kiiock  oM'  those  behind  it.  Thi'-  w;is  an  eudle.ss 
trouble  to  the  conq)aiiy.  and  on  .biiniaiy  "Jnd.  18!)(1.  when  the  railway  was 
extended  to  Outtrim.  the  afi'ial   line  \\a-  (li>ni;nnlc(l." 

'J'he  .late  of  di^coxcry  of  the  ()ultrin)  coal  -caui  wa^  the  Itlth  ( )clober, 
IS'J-J.  At  thai  time  tlic  late  Mr.  .M.  T.  .b>hn-i.n  \va-  leading  Mr.  Murdoch 
]M(djeo(r>  properly.  .\-  there  were  a  number  of  wallabies  in  the  scrub 
Avhici)  co\('re(l  the  southern  half  of  the  selection,  and  as  the  skins  were  of  high 
commercial  \alue.  one  <»f  the  sons,  the  late  .Mi',  .\rthur  .Johnson,  was  setting 
trajjs  along  the  edge  of  the  scrub.  Il  wa^  while  engaged  in  this  that  he  dis- 
covereil  an  outcrop  of  coal  when  crossinii'  a  creek',  lie  >ank  a  shaft  at  a  spot 
a  few  yaids  from  the  creek,  wliicli  di^-do^ed  a  <eam  ifl.  in  ihick'ness.  \  few 
days  latei'  Mr.  .lohn  I'arry  and  party  inspected  the  seauj  and  pronouncecl  the 
coal  as  fir.st  cla>s  (|ualily.  Later  on  Mr.  .Murdoch  McLeod.  who  had  |)re- 
viously  ac(|uired  the  mineral  lease,  arranged  w  i(h  Mi'.  Iv.  I>.  Stamp,  of  Collins- 
sti'eel.  Melbourne,   to    form   a    conq)any   called   \]\r  Outtrim   Co..   named   afier 


THE     COAL    INDUSTRY    OF     SOUTH    GIPPSLANU.  241 

Mr.  Outtrim.  llie  then  Minister  of  Mines.  It  w;is  snbsequently  amalframated 
with  another  lease  c-alled  the  Howitt  Co..  and  they  went  nnder  the  name  of 
The  Onttrim  Howitt  Co.  After  some  prospectino;  by  Mr.  Dorey,  the  original 
manager,  a  tunnel  was  opened,  and  subsecjuently  the  main  workings  estab- 
lished within  a  few  chains  of  the  site  of  the  outcrop.  After  one  or  two 
changes  in  the  management  in  the  early  stages,  Mr.  Daniel  Mackenzie  as- 
sumed the  management,  which  he  has  retained  up  to  the  present  time. 

To  extend  the  railway  line  from  Junil)iinna  to  the  Outtrim  mine  the 
Government  required  a  guarantee  of  £-20.()0()  from  the  company,  which  they 
agi-eed  to.  and  the  line  was  constructed  and  opened  on  January  27th,  189G, 
when  the  first  truck  of  coal  was  sent  from  the  mine,  the  company  having 
8000  tons  ready  to  truck  away  on  that  date.  The  largest  output  from  the 
mine  Avas  in  1;>V)-J.  when  114.686  tons  Avere  produced. 

The  Wonthaggi  coal  held,  situated  between  Kilcunda  and  Cape  Paterson, 
is  the  most  recent  coal  field  to  he  developed.  A  site  selected  by  Mr.  St(uiley 
Hunter,  engineer  for  boring,  on  the  Powlett  flats  in  1900  was  not  operated 
on  until  early  in  1908,  when  the  drill  passed  thi'ough  three  distinct  seams  of 
coal,  the  largest  being  ?>ft.  in  thickness.  The  bores  put  down  afterwards  to 
test  these  seams  pro\ed  that  they  merged  into  one,  the  result  being  a  fine  seam 
9ft.  thick  of  clean  coal  free  from  partings.  Owing  to  shipping  and  mine 
strikes  in  New  South  Wales,  the  Victorian  Government  decided  to  start  a 
State  coal  mine,  and  reserved  a  large  area  of  the  Wonthaggi  coal  field.  The 
strike  in  New  South  Wales  compelled  the  Government  to  make  a  hasty  start 
in  developing  the  mine.  In  sinking  for  water  for  one  of  the  drills.  8ft.  of 
coal  was  passed  through  at  a  shallow  depth,  and  advantage  was  taken  of  this 
to  start  mining  operations,  which  very  rai)idly  develoi)ed.  Woi-k  was  started 
on  Noveml)er  I'-Jnd.  1909.  and  shortly  after  coal  was  l)eing  brought  to  the 
surface.  The  coal  was  sent  to  Inverioch,  a  distance  of  nine  miles  by  road: 
300  bullocks,  -10  horses  and  a  poAverfid  traction  engine  were  us'ed  to  haul  the 
coal  to  Inverloch,  where  it  was  shipped  to  Melbourne..  Three  thousand  si>j 
hundred  tons  were  sent  in  this  way  befoi-e  railway  conununication  was  avail- 
able; 10.000  tons  wci-e  also  waiting  al  the  mine  when  the  line  to  the  mine  was 
opened.  \Miei)  mining  oj)ei'ations  connnenced  the  drills  then  on  tbe  lieKl  were 
brought  to  the  shafts  and  converted  into  winding  and  pumping  engines,  oil 
supi^lying  the  ]K)wer.  This  e<iuipment  furnished  400  tons  pei-  day.  ^^'ilh  the 
aid  of  these  outfits  four  shafts. were  sunk,  and  the  mines  wen-  kept  (hy  while 
80.000  tons  of  (•<)al  were  hauled  to  tlie  surface. 

Mr.  StanU-y  Ilnnter.  who  liad  chirge  of  developing  the  State  coal  niine 
(with  Mr.  Mackenzie  as  acting  manager)  in  its  early  stages,  was  i-esponsible 
for  the  economical  n-^c  of  tlii-  Miacliincry.  and  too  much  jji-aise  «-annot  bo 
bestowed  on  him  and  all  tli<>>c  conncdcil  with  the  caidy  development  of  the 
field  for  the  eii"rL''v  and  the  wholeliea  ite(|  way  tliev  wnrUed  together  lo  nial<e 
the  enteri)ri^e  a  -ucce-^.  'Vlw  \(  i\  ><'\ere  winter-,  experienced  in  the  early 
staires  of  the  c;iiiip  julded  greatly  t«'  the  di-cduiforl-  of  caMip  life  :ind  the 
work'   thai    wa.~  beinii-  iindert  al<en. 

W'\u']\  the  -elector-  were  in\ited  to  lal<e  Up  land  in  South  (Jippsland 
they  had  all  coal  iiglit>  m  regard  lo  the  coal  that  may  exist  beneath  the  ^ur- 
face.  and  it  was  a  h<»pe  for  many  years  that  they  might  find  a  goo<l  coal  -earn 
in   tlieir   |)rop<Mlv.      .\>  soon   a-  One  of  the  selectoi'-.   .Mr.    Horsley.   f<»und   th<! 


242  THE     COAL    INDUSTRY    OF     SOUTH     GIPPSLAND. 

Jiiniltiinna  seam  on  his  ])ropei-ty.  the  Goveninieiit,  with  very  short  notice, 
inserted  in  the  Coal  Mining  Act  the  following: — 

"All  minerals,  ores  and  metals,  other  than  gold  and  silver,  in  or  below 
the  surface  of  all  lands  in  Victoria  not  alienated  in  fee  simple  from  the 
Crown  on  or  before  the  first  day  of  March,  1892,  shall  be  and  remain  the 
pro])erty  of  the  CroAvn." 

Of  recent  years'  the  Crown  has  withheld  the  issue  of  coal  leases  to  private 
compajiies,  which  prevents  any  ncAv  development  of  the  coal  industry. 

On  February  17th,  1892,  the  writer  found  the  Kongwak  outcrop  of  coal. 
On  that  date  the  writer  and  two  brothers  first  heard  of  the  action  of  Parlia- 
ment in  taking  away  the  coal  rights  of  the  selectors,  and  at  once  took  steps 
to  take  out  coal  leases  on  our  properties.  It  was  while  pegging  out  my 
brother's  lease,  while  returning  home  after  having  failed  to  find  one  of  the 
corner  pegs,  that  I  found  the  outcrop.  On  the  way  home  I  decided  to 
examine  a  s'pot  at  the  foot  of  the  hills  where  a  gulh'  joined  the  Foster  creek, 
for  traces  of  any  coal  that  might  be  washed  down.  In  the  Foster,  at  the 
mouth  of  the  gully,  I  noticed  a  thin  dark  line  just  above  the  water,  which 
resembled  the  water  stains  on  the  sandstone  at  that  dry  time  of  the 
year.  On  Avalking  along  a  fallen  blackwood  I  Avas  just  able  to  pick  off  a 
small  piece.  Avhich  proved  to  be  coal.  It  was  not  until  the  -JOth.  nine  days  after, 
that  I  examined  the  locality  foi-  further  seams.  I  found  traces  of  coal  in  the 
gulh',  and  on  looking  very  carefully  I  found  three  more  seams,  one  of  which 
was  to  be  seen  outcropping  plainly  in  the  Foster.  There  have  been  no  bores 
put  down  to  test  these  outcrops.  The  largest,  2ft.  9in.,  I  found  outcropping 
ten  chains  up  the  gully.  Tavo  of  tlie  others  proved  over  two  feet  of  l^roken 
coal,  and  one  1ft.  tiin.  of  clean  coal.  I  also  found  a  seam  of  shale  and  coal 
two  feet  thick.  I  Avas  able  to  light  the  shale  Avith  a  match.  These  outcrops 
are  half  Avay  in  a  direct  line  l)etween  the  Jumbunna  and  PoAvlett  fields.  The 
coal  resemljles  more  the  Wontliaggi  coal  in  quality. 


The   Dairying   Industry. 

THE  COMMITTEE. 

Dairying.  Avhich  has  been  the  main  factor  in  the  (leveh)pment  of  this  dis- 
trict, was  started  about  the  year  1870.  or  as  soon  as  the  first  settlers  had 
cleared  enouo-h  land  to  graze  a  few  dairy  cows.  It  was  recognised  then,  as 
now.  that  it  was  the  farm  industry  Avhich  brought  in  the  quicl^est  cash  returns, 
and  for  that  reason  alone  many  of  the  early  settlers  were  compel hnl  to  take  up 
the  industry,  and  although  the  returns  at  that  period  were  by  no  means  re- 
munerative, there  was  no  other  use  to  which  the  land  coukl  be  put  that  would 
pay  better.  Cnltivation  was  out  of  the  ((uestion  on  account  of  the  state  of  the 
clearings,  which  were  for  many  years  thickly  studded  with  stumps,  both  large 
and  small,  and  the  ground  was  littered  with  logs  lying  in  all  directions,  in 
addition  to  which  there  were  no  practicable  roads  to  get  produce  to  market. 
Fattening  sheep  and  cattle  was  Jiot  a  business  suited  to  small  clearings',  and 
in  the  case  of  sheep  want  of  knowledge  on  the  part  of  the  inexperienced 
settlers,  and  the  depredations  of  the  dingoes,  woi-ked  against  success.  On  the 
larger  clearings,  however,  some  did  y\A\  with  cattle  and  others  with  sheep. 

The  rough  state  of  the  clearings  made  it  no  easy  task  to  collect  the  cows 
and  bring  them  into  tlie  yards  at  milking  time.  The  scrub,  which  afforded 
the  cattle  shelter.  l)oth  during  the  i-ough  weather  of  Winter  and  the  heat  of 
Sunnuei'.  surrounded  (lie  clearings,  and  many  an  hour  was  wasted  in  getting 
the  "milkers"  out  of  the  scrub.  It  was  a  favourite  habit  with  the  cows  to 
hide  their  calves  in  the  scrub,  where  they  sometimes  took  days  to  find,  and 
one  could  not  consider  the  cow  as  a  •"milker"  until  the  calf  was  safely  tied 
up  at  the  "yard."  "Breaking  in"  heifers  under  such  circumstances  was  a 
streiuu)us  and  sometimes  exciting  experience.  When  they  had  their  calves 
they  seemed  to  become  as  wild  as  if  they  had  ne\er  seen  human  beiugs.  aiul, 
on  an  attempt  being  made  to  bring  them  and  their  calves  into  the  generally 
insecure  yard,  they  would  make  headlong  for  the  scrui).  wliei'e  the  call"  would 
"plant."  and  the  mother  continue  her  mad  cai-eer  through  exerything  that 
came  in  her  wwy.  Often  it  was  impossible  to  follow  jier.  and  she  would  l)e 
allc)wed  to  run  until  she  made  an</(her  ap])earance  on  the  clearing,  when  a 
fresh  attempt    would  be  made  to  get  liei*  to  the  yard. 

At  first  the  cows  were  of  no  pai-ticiilar  iireed.  a  large  proportion  of  them 
being  more  suitable  for  beef  than  f'oi-  milk  ))i'o(luction.  yet  the  yield  of  butter 
fi'om  many  of  them  was  exce|)tionally  good,  the  soft.  rich,  succulent,  grass 
growing  on  freshly  cleai-ed  and  ash-strewn  land  gi\ing  results  which  compare 
fa\'ourably  with  those  of  the  ])resent  ilay.  The  milking  sheds  were  of  the 
crudest  kind — one  or  two  bails  with  a  bark  or  shingle  i-oof  over  them,  or 
perhaps  no  roof  at  all.  just  a  bail  in  a  cornei-  of  the  yard,  which,  owing  to 
the  loose  nature  of  the  soil  and  the  hea\y  rainfall,  soon  became  knee-deej)  in 
mud.  imless  floored  with  timber,  which  was  a  most  utiusual  cii-cumstance.  A 
ty|)ical  instance  was  one  small  dairy  w  heic  only  1')  or  ]•_'  cows  were  milked. 
The  yai"d  was  about  15  yards  by  li^  \ards.  In  the  eai-ly  part  of  the  milking 
season  the  mud  was  more  than  knee-deep,  and  when  a  cow  had  to  be  bailed 
up  the  milker  would   walk'  out    du   a    log  that    h;id   been   hauled   into  the  yard 


DAIRYING.  "^-t^ 


for  the  pur])ose,  and  with  a  U)no-  pole  ^vouhl  poke  the  cow  towards  the  hail. 
Havino-  oot  her  bailed  ii])  and  Tegroped,  a  bucket  of  water  was  required  to 
wash  the^  udder  after  the  mud  had  been  s'craped  off  with  a  i)iece  of  shingle.  It 
us'uallv  appealed  as  if  the  coav  re(inired  was  always  in  the  farthest  corner  of 
the  yard  and  in  the  deepest  mud.  and  to  get  her  towards  the  bail  meant  dis- 
turbing all  the  other  cows  in  the  yard,  who  would  splash  round  in  the  mud, 
while  tile  one  wanted  tried  to  dodire  round  them  back  into  lier  favourite,  muddy 
corner.  This  stirring  rounci  accounted  for  some  at  least  of  the  mud  in  the>e 
cow  yards,  and  usually  had  to  be  repeated  for  every  cow  milked.  Under  these 
circumstances  milkinij  was  slow  work.  About  four  cows  an  hour  was  as  many 
as  one  could  milk,  in  contrast  with  i>resent-day  conditions,  Avhen  a  man  can 
milk  six  or  eight  cows  by  hand  and  up  to  :20  an  hour  with  mdking  machines. 

In  the  earlier  staires  of  settlement  it  was  not  an  easy  mailer  to  gauge  the 
cavryiiiii-  capacity  of  the  pastures.        in    Spring    one    could    hardly    put    ou 
enough' stock  to  keep  the  grass  down:  then,  perhaps,  in  December  caterpillars 
would  suddenly  make  their  appearance  in  myriads  on  the  young  grass  ]ust 
about  to  seed,  and  in  a  few  days  would  leave  nothing  but  dead  and  withered 
grass  behind  them.      If  new  oro'und  were  cleared  and    sown    each    year,    ihc 
same  thing  nii^ht  be  repeated,  and,  after  the  new  grass  was  destroyed,  the 
caterpillars  would  spread  over  the  old  grass  as  well.     If  rain  soon  followed 
the  <'va-s  would   recover:    Init   if  not.  the  dairy    lierd    would    liavc    to    e:asl 
throuo-h  the  Summer  on  short  rations.     AVallabies.  of  which  there  were  num- 
bers in  the  scrub,  also  found  the  sweet  English  grass  to  their  likmg,  and  took 
a  heavy  toll  from  the  small  clearings.     At  another  stage  the  Scotch  thistles 
took  possession  of    the    paddocks    for    some    years,    sometimes    completely 
smothering  the  grass  and  growina-  in  such  dense  masses  that  tracks  luu    to 
be  cut  through  them  to  net  .stock  from  one  portion  of  the  clearing  to  another. 
As  conditions  became  more  settled,  it  was  generally  recognised  that  from  two 
to  three  acres  was  sufficient  to  carry  a  milking  cow  all  the  year  round.    Many 
dairymen  in  later  years  grew  crops  to  supi)lement  the  pastures,  maize  I. .  l.e 
cut  ireen  and  oats  for  hay  being  the  favourites.     This  enabled  much  larger 
herds  to  be  carried  on  the"  same  area  of  ground.    Silos  have  been  erected  and 
ensilao<»  tried  on  many  farms,  but  it  has  not  been  an  unqualihed  success  on 
account  of  the  great  amount  of  labour  required  to  handle  the  crops  in  a  green 
6tate.  in  addition  to  which  it  has  been  found  that  the  cbmale  allows  given 
fodder  to  be  grown  all  the  year  round,  thus  obviating  the  need   tor  onsiage. 
Stranc^e  to  say.  want  of  water  in  the  Summer  months  was  one  of  the  dillicul- 
ties  e.xpeHenc'ed  by  many  .lairymen.     The  first  clearings  were    in  many  ca.se.s 
on  the  higher  ground,  as  being  mor.>  accessible  from  the  ^'''''l^' ]' •;!^'^;,^;/^>^  ;^^ 
usually  followed  the  ridges:  and  even  with  the  generous  ran. la  1  tie  smal 
creeks  would  run  dry  in  Summer,  necessitating  tnu-ks  being  cut  to    he  mo. 
permanent  streams,  and  the  calllc  iMkc,  con^d.-rable  distances  (o  Huench  then 
thirst. 

The  .lairics  were  n.oMlv  nia<lc  of  logs  or  slabs  with  bark  or  sliingle  roofs. 
One  was  made  of  a  framework  of  ro.nul  lu.zel  ,,oles  with  hess.an  tacke.l  on 
for  walls  and  roof,  with  a  (ly  of  the  same  inatenal  reaching  we  love,  the 
sides.  These  dairies  were  fairly  <-ool  ...  Snmn.er  a..d  well  xc.tdate.l,  hut 
were  not  proof  against  .ni<-e  and  s..akes,  both  of  which  we.e  ve.y  fo...  o 
milk.  The  snakes  we,e  also  ve.-y  fo.ul  of  m.ce,  and  it  was  not.ce.l  that  ^^hen 
^r  kes  were  about  very  few  mice  we.-e  to  l)e  seen.  The  snakes  were  mo.-e 
c  lanTv  Ian  he  mice.' as  they  never  co.un.ittcd.  suicde  by  drown.ng  them- 
selves in  the  milk,  the  onlv  evidcnc  of  their  visits  ben.g  the  .-emoval  of  part 
of  the  ere  m  Tn)n    son.e  of  the  dishes.     The  dairy  floo.s  for  ,na,.y  yeai's  were 


DAIRYING.  247 


just  the  liare  earth,  and  a.s  it  Avas  <jiiite  impossible  to  can\y  milk  in  and  out 
of  the  dairy  vvithout  spilling  some,  the  floor  in  time  became  saturateil  and 
loaded  witli  germs,  although  appearing  clean  on  the  surface.  This  gave  no 
end  of  trouble  through  turning  the  milk  thick  before  the  cream  had  time  to 
rise  and  by  making  the  butter  so  that  it  would  not  keep  unless  overloaded 
with  salt,  much  to  the  annoyance  of  the  dairymaids,  who  could  not  account 
for  their  failures.  The  milk,  when  brought  to  the  dairy,  was  poured  through 
a  strainer  into  shallow  pans,  each  holding  tv^o  or  three  gallons.  The  cream 
rose  to  the  surface  in  aljout  36  liours.  when  it  was  skimmed  off  with  a  per- 
forated piece  of  tin  called  a  hand-skimmer.  For  a  herd  of  15  to  '20  cows 
about  60  of  these  pans  were  required  to  set  each  lot  of  milk  in  rotation  and 
allow  time  for  the  ci-eam  to  rise.  To. accommodate  these  the  dairy  Avould  be 
furnished  with  a  number  of  strong  shelves  made  of  slabs  of  wood  or  two 
round  sticks  for  the  pan>  to  rest  on.  The  round  sticks  were  better  than  the 
slabs,  as  they  were  more  easily  kept  clean.  On  a  cold  frosty  morning  skim- 
ming was'  not  an  enviable  job.  It  and  most  dairy  work,  including  washing 
up.  feedino-  claves.  making  butter,  and  in  many  instances  milking  cows,  was 
usually  do^ne  bv  the  women  of  the  family,  but  there  were  many  bachelor 
pioneers  who  did  all  this  work  and  became  expert  l)utter-makers.  some  of  them 
o-etting  top  prices  in  the  Melbourne  market  for  potted  l)utter. 

A  variety  of  churns  were  used  for  making  butter,  but  the  one  conunonly 
used  was  the  vertical  dash  churn,  and  very  tiresome  work  it  was,  the  butter 
sometimes  taking  two  hours  to  come.  Tf  it  was  intended  to  send  the  butter 
to  market  as  ^-fresh  butter.*"  each  pound  had  to  be  weighed  separately,  shaped 
into  a  roll  or  print,  wrapped  in  a  cloth,  and  packed  in  a  box.  If  it  was  to 
be  marketed  as  "potted  butter."  more  salt  was  mixed  with  it.  and  it  was 
packed  in  a  small  cask.  On  account  of  the  difficulties  of  transport,  these 
boxes  or  casks  were  not  sent  aAvav  until  they  were  full,  which  sometimes  took 
two  or  three  weeks.  The  prices  realised  varied  considerably,  according  to  the 
condition  of  the  butter  when  it  arriAcd  in  Melbourne  and__the  season  ot  the 
year  In  Spring  and  Summer  prices  ranged  from  4(1.  to  <d.  per  lb.,  aiul  in 
Winter  anythinir  up  to  2  0  a  pound.  In  cool  weather  the  butter  would  i-eacli 
its  destination  in  sood  condition,  and  fair  prices  would  be  realised,  but  m 
hot  weather  its  condition  was  sometimes  dreadful.  On  one  occasion  a  whole 
consignment  realised  as  low  as  2d.  per  lb.— barely  enough  to  pay  tor  t lie 
freicdit.  One  selector  potted  his  Spring  and  Summer  butter  in  kerosene  tins, 
on  which  he  soMered  the  lids,  and  then  put  away  m  oases,  whicii  he  stoi-e.l  in 
Melbourne  until  Winter,  when  the  ])utter  realised  good  pi-ices.  In  llic  early 
davs  of  settlement  manv  strong  flavoured  weeds  grew  m  the  Mini.  an. I  caiuc 
up'  in  the  ck'ariniiS.  These  the  cows  ale,  and  spoill  ai.v  vU-auw  <.I  luaknig 
good  butter  from  their  i)ro.luce.  Some,  like  the  .logw.,.,.!.  were  s..  stn.n- 
tliat  the  flavour  could  be  tast«'d  in  the  milk. 

Butter  was  sent  from  the  district  by  four  n.ut.'s.  Fr.Mi.  the  iiorlhcin 
part  it  was  carted  to  Drouin  ami  then  on  by  rail:  from  the  south  U  was 
packed  to  Anderson's  Inlet  an<l  then  went  by  boat:  Iron,  the  east  it  wen  hy 
Mirboo  Xorth  to  Morwell,  and  then  by  rail:  and  from  the  west  it  a  cut  In 
boat  from  (Jriflith-s  Point  or  The  Blnll.  1o  get  to  any  of  these  places  if  had 
to  be  taken  on  i>ack  horses  along  the  at.o.ious  pack  tracks,  rh.s  'netliod  of 
dairving  continued  until  about  1S!)1.  when  th<'  c.vam  separator  was  n.  o- 
diiced,  and  also  the  system  of  installing  r.dngcrat.ng  machinery  on  ocean- 
going steamships,  bv  which  method  it  was  f<.un.l  possible  to  send  butter  to 
Lonclcm   and   land   i"t   in    -oorl   condition.     These   methods   rev<,lut,onised   the 


•24S  DAIRYING. 

dairy  iiuliislrv,  and  quickly  superseded  the  old  system  of  setting  milk  in  pans. 
The  Government,  in  order  to  encourage  the  export  trade  in  butter,  granted 
a  bonus  on  all  butter  of  a  certain  standard  that  was  exported  for  a  period 
of  live  years,  and  paid,  during  that  time,  the  sum  of  £135,000.  Very  little 
of  that  money  came  into  this  district,  as  the  industry  was  not  Avell  established 
at  the  time,  but  it  had  a  stimulating  etfect,  and  factories,  mostly  co-operative, 
were  established  with  the  object  of  manufacturing  a  more  uniform  quality 
of  butter.  In  one  instance  a  large  cream  separator  was  installed  in  a  factory 
to  treat  the  milk  from  the  surrounding  district,  but  the  hilly  nature  of  the 
country  and  the  bad  roads  limited  the  area  of  supply,  and  made  the  cost  of 
delivering  milk  and  manufacturing  the  butter  so  high  that  this  method  was 
found  impracticable.  It  was  soon  found  that  the  best  s,ystem  to  adopt  for 
this  district  Avas  to  separate  the  milk  on  the  farm  and  send  cream  only  to 
the  factory.  It  has  been  found  that  butter  of  the  highest  quality  can  be 
manufactured  by  this  method,  though  much  adverse  criticism  was  launched 
against  it  at  first.  These  early  factories,  like  the  early  settlers,  had  manj' 
difficulties  to  contend  Avith  at  their  first  inception,  as  they  had  to  evolve  a 
system  adapted  to  a  novel  set  of  conditions.  One  of  the  chief  problems 
was  the  (juick  and  regular  delivery  of  their  cream  supph^  At  first  cream 
was  brought  to  them  in  fiat-sidecl  tins  on  pack  horses,  and  after  that  on 
sledges.  Latei-  bullock  and  horse  waggons  were  used  to  bring  the  cream. 
Then,  as  the  roads  were  cleared,  the  factories  carted  their  supplier's  cream  on 
a  co-operatiAc  principle,  and  this  system  has  been  extended  and  improved 
until  now.  on  most  roads',  cream  is  collected  daily  during  the  Spring  and 
Summer  months  by  waggons  drawn  by  three  or  four  horses. 

The  first  co-operative  factory  in  the  district  was  a  cheese  factory  estab- 
lished at  Woodleigh  in  1888  by  the  farmers  of  the  locality.  The  first  direc- 
tors Avere  Messrs.  NoAvel  (Chairman).  Delaney.  A.  Ward.  J.  Tulloch,  and 
Belfage.  wlio  Avas  later  appointed  secretary.  Milk  Avas  brought  to  the  factory 
from  a  radius  of  tAvo  miles  on  sledges.  Later  a  cream  separator  and  butter- 
making  ])laut  were  installed,  and  cheose-niakino  was  abandoned  in  fa\^our  of 
butter. 

The  PooAvong  Co-operative  Butter  Factory  was  started  in  1892,  after 
enquiries  had  been  made  as  to  the  methods  of  scA-eral  established  factories 
bA"  a  ]»]'ovi~i(»iial  connniltee.  anionti  whom  were  Messrs.  C.  R.  M'air.  R.  0. 
Timms.  C.  Burchett.  T.  G.  Scott  and  E.  Allchin.  with  Mr.  Chas.  Cook,  the 
originator  of  the  movement,  as  secretary,  and  later  secretary  to  the  com- 
pany. Mr.  Staben  was  the  first  chairman  of  directors,  and  Mr.  Green  the 
first  manager,  and  the  first  year's  output  was  about  four  tons  of  butter  a 
Aveek.  Following  the  example  of  the  established  butter  factories  in  the 
Western  di.strict  of  Victoria,  a  cream  .separator  Avas  installed,  and  suppliers 
brought  milk  to  the  factory  and  took  back  the  skim  milk;  but  it  was  soon 
found  that  this  system  Avas  nol  suited  to  local  conditions.  The  cream 
separator  Avas  disposed  of,  and  only  cream  received  at  the  factory,  necessitat- 
ing farmers  separating  the  milk  on  the  farms.  Great  difficulty  was  ex- 
perienced in  getting  cream  regularly  from  the  scattered  farms,  and  this 
company,  at  the  suggestion  of  Mr.  Chas.  Cook,  was  the  first  to  collect  cream 
by  Avaggons  belonging  to  the  factory.  Strange  to  say,  this  system,  which 
is  now  uniA^ersal  in  South  Gippsland,  was  at  first  opposed  by  the  farmers. 
The  first  factory  building,  a  wooden  one.  Avas  later  replaced  by  a  substantial 
two-storied  brick  building. 

The  same  year  (1892)  co-operative  butter  factories  were  started  at  Bena 
and  Moyarra.     At  Bena  the  first  directors  Avere  Messrs.  P.  Whittet,  E.  J. 


DAIRYING.  249 

Puller.  J.  Blind.  W.  Chapman,  and  'l\  J.  Covenlale.  with  Mr.  W.  McKenzie 
McHarg  a.s  secretary,  and  Mr.  P.  Kenna  as  manager.  The  output  was  at 
first  about  three  tons  of  butter  a  week.  After  being  carried  on  for  some 
years  as  a  co-operative  factory,  the  business  was  sold  to  a  proprietary  com- 
pany. 

The  first  directors  of  the  Moyarra  Butter  Factory  Avere  Messrs.  W.  Elms 
(chairman),  W.  Rainbow,  C.  Parsons,  E.  Halford,  and  W.  J.  AVilliams.  with 
Mr.  A.  W.  Elms  as  secretary  and  Mr.  Mr.  R.  T.  Archer  as  manager.  There 
were  about  twenty  suppliers,  and  cream  was  mainly  delivered  by  sledges 
drawn  by  horses  or  bullocks.  The  capacity  of  the  factory  Avas  about  three 
tons  of  butter  a  Aveek.  There  Avas  no  refrigerator,  the  only  means  of  cooling 
cream  or  butter  l)eing  an  underground  cellar,  and  in  hot  weather  the  manager 
Avorked  at  night  to  take  advantage  of  the  cool  night  air.  OAving  to  changes 
in  the  source  "of  cream  supply,  the  company  Avas  liquidated  in  ly^H).  and  from 
it  Avas  formed  the  Kongwak  Co-operative  Butter  Factory. 

The  Leongatha  Butter  and  Cheese  Factory  Co.  Ltd.  was  organised  in 
1894.  The  aniount  of  capital  subscribed  after  considerable  canvassing  Avas 
£670.  and  a  start  Avas  made  on  this  capital.  Avhich  proved  inade(iuate.  and  in 
a  A-ery  short  lime  the  company  Avas  in  difficulties,  and  in  order  that  the 
business  could  be  carried  on  the  directors  gave  personal  guarantees  to  the 
bank. 

The  first  board  of  directors  were  Messrs.  K.  T.  S.  RidgeAvay.  J.  D. 
Symons,  ^Y.  Go.steloAv,  H.  McCartin  and  Searle. 

During  the  first  seven  years  of  its  existence  the  company  had  a  hard 
struggle,  the  v.ant  of  good  refrigerating  machinery  causing  serious  loss,  and 
there%vere  numerous  changes  in  the  directorate  and  management.  In  1901 
the  present  maiuiger.  Mr.  S.  C  Wilson.  Avas  appointed,  alterations  were  made 
in  the  buildings,  and  up-to-date  appliances  Avere  installed,  and  the  company 
put  teams  on  the  roads  to  collect  cream.  The  regular  supply  of  cream 
enabled  the  factorv  to  turn  out  a  lietter  (jualily  of  butter  and  ])ay  iiiglier 
prices  for  cream.  In  1905  the  po.silion  of  the  company  had  impi-oved  to  such 
an  extent  that  a  neAV  brick  factory  was  built  at  a  cos-t  of  iT.OOO.  including 
plant. 

In  190<S  the  company  started  manufacturing  electricity  for  then-  (»\vu 
use  and  the  lighting  of  the  toAvn.     In  1914  a    Batch    pasteuriser,    the    first 

niiuliine  of  its  kind  in  An>ti-alia.  was  installed,  mid  i>r<n-i'(l  a  great  success. 

In  191.")  a  larger j-etVigcrating  plant  was  iiistallc.l  i"or  the  purpo.se  of 
freezinir  rabba-^.  In  *1!>1<')  a  desiccator  for  ti-eating  buttei'milU  was  erected, 
and  in   1917  a  grain  crushing  and  milling  plant  was  added. 

'idle  outi)ut  of  butter  for  the  vear  en<lc.l  .hmc  :'.(>ili,  jiilS.  was  .S-27.(;;ll  llj«., 
which  realised  tnC.l 60/1 8/1. 

The  movement  for  .starting  a  l)ntter  factory  at  Kornmbin  ra  originated 
with  the  Farmers'  Club,  the  i)rime  mover  being  Mr.  W.  8.  Newton.  It  Avas 
started  in  1900  with  a  capital  of  t:'.000.  The  first  directors  were  Messrs.  1. 
Sanders.  W.  .).  Newton,  J.  Bell.  J.  F.  Shepherd,  H.  P.  Cook,  EL.  Smith 
and  E.  Mulholan.l.  with  Mr.  (}.  AV.  Mit.-hell  as  secretary,  and  Mr.  A\  .  .F. 
Wil.s'on  as  manager. 


DAIRYING.  251 

The  output  for  the  first  half-year  was -1 -20  tons  of  butter,  Avhich  sold  at 
from  T^cl.  to  S|^cl.  per  lb. 

The  original  wooden  buildino-  has  been  replaced  by  an  extensive  brick 
structure,  arranged  on  the  gravity  system,  to  save  labour,  the  cream  coming 
in  at  the  high  level  and  the  packed  butter  being  loaded  on  the  waggons  a^ 
the  lower  level.  The  machinery  comprises  the  latest  refrigerating  and  pas- 
teurising methods,  as  well  as  an  efficient  butter-making  plant.  To  use  the 
buttermilk  from  the  factory  an  extensive  piggery  is  worked  in  conjunction 
with  the  factory. 

To  ensure  the  regular  supply  of  fresh  cream  from  suppliers,  an  extensive 
waggon  service  has  been  established,  wiiich  also  delivers  stores  to  suppliers 
and  collects  rabbits  in  Winter  for  freezing  and  forwarding  to  Melbourne. 
In  addition,  an  egg-collecting  service  is  worked,  and  a  co-operative  store 
established  for  the  benefit  of  the  company's  shareholders. 

The  output  of  butter  for  the  year  ended  June  30th.  1918.  was  1.762,453 
lbs.,  whicli  realised  the  sum  of  ii  10.070/4/9. 

In  addition  to  the  above,  several  other  co-operative  butter  factories  have 
been  established  in  the  district  in  more  i-ecent  years,  and  there  are  also  many 
factories  owned  by  Melbourne  firms  which  compete  with  the  co-operative 
companies  for  the  farmers'  cream. 

Tlie  warm  '^kim  milk  from  the  sei)arator  was  used  to  feed  calves,  sometimes 
with  the  addition  of  oil  or  meal  foods  to  replace  the  fat  removed  by  the  separa- 
tors through  skimming,  and  on  this  diet  calves  throve  well.  In  the  early 
days  of  settlement  all  the  calve.s  that  could  be  reared  were  required  to  .stock 
up  the  ever-increasing  areas  of  pasture.  Later,  when  the  country  had  be- 
come cleared,  it  became  a  problem  with  dairymen  to  know  what  to  do  with 
their  calves,  as  they  could  not  be  leared  at  a  profit.  Some  killed  all  but  a 
few  of  the  best  heifers,  whicli  were  kept  to  replace  defective  or  old  cows. 
Others  sent  their  calves  to  Melbourne  to  be  sold  as  veal,  and  the  milk  was  fe  I 
to  pigs.  The  state  of  the  seasons  in  the  north  has  a  great  influence  on  this 
brancii  of  the  iiKhi.-^try.  f)s  when  good  seasons  occur,  there  is  always  a  strong 
demand  for  calves  at  remunerative  prices. 

As  the  industry  progressed,  a  noticeable  improvement  in  the  breed  of 
cows  became  evident.  First,  pure  bi-ed  bulls  were  introduced;  then  some  of 
the  more  progressive  settlers  started  bi-eeding  pure  bred  dairy  cattle.  Jerseys, 
or,  as  they  Avere  at  fii'st  miscalled.  Alderneys',  were  the  first  in  favour.  Then 
Ayrshires  were  tried,  and  some  favoured  a  ci'oss  between  the  two  breeds.  A 
few  tried  a  milking  strain  of  Shoi-thorn.  but  they  have  not  met  with  much 
favour.  To-d;iy  the  Ayr<liii'(  .  -Icr-cy  aii<l  Sbovllioni  crosses  are  in  most 
favoui'.  witli  tlie  Ayrshii-e  prcloiiiiiinl  ini:-. 

The  bi-eeding  of  ]uii-e  bied  IJerlohii-e  and  Voi'ksiiii-e  ])igs  has  been  taken 
up  by  some  entlnisiasiic  breeders  witii  great  success,  with  the  i-esnlt  that  in 
these  lines  this  disti-ict  stands  pre-eminent,  mid  pure  stock  from  local  fMrms 
is  in  demand  throughout  the  Commonwealth. 

Cheese  is  also  made  in  .s(M'eral  piM\a(c  dairies,  and  the  (piality  is  ex- 
cellent, although  the  (pianlilv  i-  not  large.  One  makei-  has  taken  no  le.ss 
than  1-2  first  pi-izes  in  local  shows,  first  at  the  lioyal  Agricultural  Show  at 
Melbourne  on  two  occasions:  first  at  AVarrnambooJ.  the  home  of  cheese 
making:  and  the  crold  medal  at  the  Franco  T'ritish  Fxhibition  in  100ft.     The 


DAIRYING.  253 

first  cheese  factory  in  the  district  was  that  of  Mr.  Mark  Garcbier  at  Poowong, 
who  sent  the  product  l)y  road  to  Drouin  almost  as  soon  as  that  route  was 
opened. 

During  recent  years  the  supply  of  milk  to  JMelbourne  is  another  branch 
of  the  industry  that  has  developed.  By  cooling  milk  on  the  farm  it  is  found 
that  it  can  be  delivered  by  rail  in  as  good  condition  as  that  produced  close  to 
the  city. 

Before  the  introduction  of  the  separator,  from  "i.")  to  30  cows  was  the 
usual  limit  of  a  dairy  herd,  but  now,  witli  up-to-date  machinery  and  methods, 
dairies  of  from  <')0  to  SO  cov.s  are  by  no  means  unconnnon.  and  occasionally 
over  100  cows  are  milked  in  one  herd. 

The  introduction  of  milking  machines  marked  another  step  in  the  history 
of  dairying.  At  first  many  of  the  machines  were  failures,  but  they  seemed 
destined  to  fill  such  an  important  part  h\  making  dairymen  independent 
to  a  great  extent  of  outside  labour,  with  its  worries  during  the  flush  of  the 
season,  that  they  have  been  persevered  with,  and  with  the  introduction  of 
many  improvements,  have  come  to  a  stage  when  they  are  looked  on  as  part  of 
the  equipment  of  any  dairy  milking  fi'om  40  to  .")()  cows  and  upwards. 

Since  the  factory  system  of  ilair\ing  has  become  established  in  the  Com- 
monwealth, a  rapidly  developed  and  prosperous  export  trade  has  sprung  up, 
and  noAv  there  is  probably  no  industry  in  the  country  that  gives  constant  em- 
ployment to  such  a  large  number  of  persons.  It  stands  firmly  on  its  feet, 
needs  no  protection  to  bolstei-  it  up.  and  has  almost  unlimited  jjossibilities  of 
expansion.  It  seems  destined  to  be  ojw  of  CJii)pshin(rs  most  permanent  and 
relial)le  industries,  in  conjunction  with  a  system  of  mixed  farming,  including 
the  groAving  of  potatoes,  onions,  and,  perhaps  sugar-beet  and  (lax.  as  money 
making  crops. 


Spring-time    Milking. 

MR.  W.   MOORE. 

A\']ien  the  first  faint  rays  of  morning 

Throtigh  the  frosty  windows  peep. 
When  our  limbs  are  stitf  and  weary. 

And  our  eyelids  long  for  sleep. 
When  the  calves  and  kookaburras 

Make  a  most  unearthly  din, 
Xipper  Tedd3'  rides  on  "Bellman" 

Out  to  bring  the  milkers  in. 
He  hears  the  distant  loAving, 
He  sets  the  "neddy"  going, 
And  is  quickly  down  the  hillside. 

To  the  tree-fern  bridge  below. 
His  dog  bounds  past  him,  Hashing, 
Madly  barking,  madly  dashing. 
As  his  active  strong  nerves  tingle. 

And  he  feels  his  young  blood  liow. 

They  go  down  by  tracklets  winding 

To  the  gorge  in  snaky  turns. 
And  they  lind  the  cattle  feeding 

"Mong  the  orangewood  and  ferns, 
And  it's  there  the  fallen  timber 

And  the  clustered  bracken  make 
From  the  storm  and  wind  a  shelter 

From  the  sleet  and  rain  a  break. 
The  ryegrass  and  the  clover. 
With  dew  besprinkled  over. 
Make  a  fragrance  like  to  incense 

Floating  on  the   morning  air. 
So  Teddy  sets  them  running 
From  co^•erts,  Avarm  and  cunning. 
From  their  couch  of  ferns  so  cosy. 

And   from  their  leafy  lair. 

Soon  he  gets  them  all  together. 

And  at  last  they're  homeward  bound, 
And  the  music  of  their  lowing 

F'ills  the  misty  vales  around. 
And  along  the  siding  tracklets. 

Like  a  phantom  herd  they  wind, 
A  spectral  dog  and  horseman 

Rounding  stragglers  up  beliind. 
The  ringing  voice  of  Teddy. 
"Rouse  them  up" — '"Rowdy — Steady." 
And  the  echo  from  the  hillsides 

EA'ery  soinid  it  answers  plain. 
0\er  the  tree-fern  bridges. 
T^ong  tracklets  to  the  ridges, 
They  will  spread  and  bunch  and  scatter. 

String  and  bunch  and  spread  again. 


SPRINGTIME    MILKING. 

Past  the  orchard,  through  the  j^liprails, 

They  go  tramping  slowly  on. 
And  their  coats,  like  satin,  gleaming 

In   the   early   rising  sun: 
In  the  shed  they  bail-up  gladly. 

P'or  none  better  know  than  they, 
The  scent  coming  from  the  silo. 

Or  the  ruslle  of  the  hay. 
Each  rhythmic  milkstroke  singing 
Into  the  milk-pail  ringing. 
Is.  in  cadence,  low  and  tuneful. 

To  the  separator's  hum. 
This  programme  in  the  morning, 
Repeated  in  the  evening 
By  the  ambidextrous  milkers 

Makes  the  snowy  wliite  froth  come. 

AMiile  the  Avhite  mists  yet  are  clinging 

To  the  gullies  down  below, 
On   the  hills  the  gums  are  gleaming 

In  the  morning's  sunny  glow. 
While,  from  down  among  the  blackwoods. 

Comes  the  jay's  shrill  note,  bO  clear, 
And  the  magpie  pipes  and  warbles 

In  the  dogAvood  standing  near. 
We  hear  the  lyre-bird  singing, 
His  notes  so  clearly  ringing; 
He  can  mimic  to  perfection 

livery  song  the  son.u-birds  sing: 
And.  while  morn's  golden  changes 
Play  round  the  purple  ranges, 

We  are  busy,  busy,  milking. 

Here  in  (Ti]>j\slaii(l  in  t])e  Spring. 


(Idwm      IicIdW, 


■lin^riiiir 


•  In     III!'     Mills    the    jjiims    ;iii'    ;,'|(MIii  iiiK 
III    Mil'   iiioriiiiiK'H   Hiiiin.v   jrliiw." 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  J.  A.  BLACK. 


In  the  year  1880  Messrs.  Elliott.  Irving  and 
Toomey.  of  Ballarat.  and  my  father,  who  lived  at 
Meredith,  made  up  a  party  to  go  and  see  the  Gipps- 
laud  forest.  They  took  tram  to  Pakenham,  and  then 
ballast  train  to  Moe,  the  main  Gippsland  railway 
being  then  in  course  of  construction.  From  Moe 
horses  were  procured  to  take  them  to  Gallagher's 
camp  at  Mirboo.  They  were  shown  land  by  Mr.  Gal- 
lagher in  the  parish  of  Mardan,  about  five  miles 
from  where  Mirboo  North  noAv  is,  and  there  they 
selected  a  l)lock  of  land  each.  Later  on.  Mr.  Irving 
and  my  father  inspected  some  land  in  the  parish  of 
Mirboo.  about  five  miles  from  the  present  site  of 
Boolarra.  and  there  they  selected  again,  abandoning 
the  land  at  Mardan.  after  having  paid  the  survey 
fees.  Our  block  was  Xo.  60,  and  contained  only  280 
acres,  as  my  father  had  previously  selected  40  acres 
at  Meredith. 

In  the  following  3'ear  (1881)  my  father  and  I 
came  out  to  clear  a  '^ite  to  build  oji.  ]\Iy  father  travelled  to  Morwell  by  train, 
while  I.  with  two  Mr.  Irvings.  came  by  road  with  a  mob  of  cattle.  We  ar- 
rived at  MorAvell  in  seven  days,  and  paddocked  the  cattle.  Tlie  Morwell  town- 
ship was  16  miles  from  our  selection,  and  as  it  was  the  most  convenient  place 
to  get  our  provisions,  we  got  a  fairly  large  supply,  which,  with  our  tools  and 
camp  outfit,  was  taken  by  bullock  Avaggon  to  Avithin  one  mile  of  the  selection, 
and  from  therj  everything  had  to  be  carried  on  our  l)acks  along  a  narrow 
track  and  up  some  very  steep  hills.  Our  meat  supply  we  had  to  carry  from 
Mirboo  along  nine  miles  of  very  rough  pack  track.  At  that  time  the  town- 
ship Avas  about  one  mile  east  of  the  ])resent  site.  Brennan's  hotel  and  store. 
Bensley's  hotel  and  store  and  Howlett  and  Allen's  butcher's  shop  were  the 
only  business  places  there  then.  The  track  Avas  so  bad  that  it  Avas  more 
conA-enient  to  travel  the  sixteen  miles  to  Morwell  for  our  provisions.  Every- 
thing had  to  be  brought  in  on  our  backs  for  the  first  year  or  tAvo  until 
we  got  our  first  gTass  and  could  keep  a  horse.  Avhen  Ave  could  ride  to  the 
s'tore.  and  lead  the  horse  back  Avith  the  ]:)rovisions  on  a  pack  saddle.  Later 
on.  Avhen  more  people  arrived  in  the  district,  the  storekeeper  Avould  deliver 
the  provisiojis  at  the  selection  by  ])aclc  horses:  one  man  driving  three  or  four 
horses  would  sup]:)ly  a  number  of  selectors  along  the  track. 

Having  pitched  our  camp  and  cleared  the  site  for  our  first  house,  or 
"hut."  as  Ave  then  called  it,  our  next  job  Avas  to  find  the  material  to  build  it 
with.  That,  however,  Avas  in  great  abundance  right  on  the  spot.  Slabs,  nine 
feet  long  and  twelve  inches  Avide.  Avere  si)lit  out  of  l^lackAvoods,  and  Avith  these 
slabs  a  fairly  comfortable  hut  Avas    built.      Then    scrub    cutting   commenced. 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  -257 

Most  people  would  have  cut  the  scrub  first,  and  built  the  house  after  the  burn, 
but  Ave  were  new  to  the  work  of  clearing  this  country,  and  had  to  learn  by 
experience.  The  scrub  was  princi]3ally  heavy  musk  with  spreading  branches. 
These  branches  had  to  be  lopped  off  to  get  the  scrub  to  lie  on  the  ground. 
Five  acres  were  cut  in  this  way,  and  then  we  cut  and  stacked  in  heaps  another 
five  acres  and  burnt  it  off,  which  Avas  very  sIoav  Avork.  Everything  up  to  two 
feet  in  diameter  Avas  cleared  off'  this  five  acres',  on  Avhich  Ave  soAved  grass  seed, 
and  then  returned  lo  our  home  at  ^leredith.  .Six  mouths  later,  Meredith  was 
left  for  our  ncAv  home  in  the  forest ;  the  Avhole  family,  father,  mother,  two 
sisters  and  two  brothers  (I,  the  eldest,  Avas  just  sixteen  years  old),  travelling 
by  road  all  the  way  in  two  spring  carts.  We  were  tAvo  weeks  on  the  road  when 
we  arrived  at  Mr.  Collyers  selection,  about  two  miles  from  our  destination. 
From  there  a  track  had  to  be  cleared  through  the  scrub,  Messrs.  Collier,  Mor- 
row and  tAvo  IrA'ings  assisting  in  the  Avork,  and  tAvo  days  later,  after  a  lot  of 
trouble,  we  all  arrived  safely  at  our  neAv  home,  a  little  hut  in  a  small  clearing, 
Avith  a  high  Avail  of  thick  scrub  all  around,  and  gi-eat  blackbutts  towering 
above  the  scrub  up  to  300  feet  high;  one  of  Avliich  Ave  measured  Avas  66  feet 
around  the  base. 

Although  it  Avas  the  beginning  of  Winter  and  everythiiig  Avet  and  damp, 
it  Avas  not  cold,  and  Ave  youngsters  thought  it  Avas  a  splendid  place  to  live  in. 
During  our  absence  the  grass  had  spriuig  up,  and  there  Avas  enough  feed  for 
the  two  horses  Ave  brought  Avith  us.  Our  first  Avork  Avas  to  clear  about  three 
acres  of  all  .small  timber  and  logs,  and  burn  it  off.  which  was  no  small 
contract  at  this  season  of  the  year.  We  sowed  oats  on  this  plot  Avithout 
ploughing  it,  just  simply  chipping  the  surface  of  the  ground  over  Avith  a  hoe. 
The  oats  grcAv  splendidly  and  Avas  one  of  the  first  crops  groAvn  in  the  dis- 
trict. AMien  ripe  it  A\as  cut  and  thrashed  by  hand,  and  a  plot  of  potatoes 
also  gave  good  returns.  The  sod  in  this  locality  is  very  good,  principally 
deep  chocolate  Avith  patches  of  grey  .soil.  There  are  also  small  patches  of 
coarse  sand,  Avhich,  in  hiter  years,  came  in  useful  for  road  making. 

The  RiA'er  Morwell  formed  the  east  boundary  of  our  land,  and  a  large 
creek  ran  through  the  southern  portion,  emptying  itsvlf  into  the  river.  There 
Avere  also  a  number  of  permanent  .si)rings  trickling  out  of  the  sides  of  the 
hills,  so  Ave  Avere  Avell  provided  Avith  water.  The  large  timber  was  nearly  all 
blackbutt,  Avhich  grew  to  a  tremendous  size,  and  Avas  very  free  to  split,  well 
suited  for  palings,  a  great  (luantity  of  Avhich  have  been  sent  aAvay  from  (his 
district.  In  the  barrel  of  one  of  these  large  trees  that  had  fallen  and  i»»'en 
holloAved  out  by  fire,  four  men  made  a  very  good  camp,  having  plenty  of  room 
inside  to  make  their  beds  cro.-^sAvi^e.  In  another  huge  log  lived  a  man  and  his 
tAvo  sons  for  a  considerable  time.  They  divided  it  into  two  rooms,  using  one 
as  a  kitchen,  and  the  other  as  a  bedroom.  Not  many  blue  gums  were  to  be 
seen;  there  Avere  some  very  nice  blacK'woods,  varying  in  .s'ize  iVom  thi-ee  feet 
doAvn,  and  uj)  to  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  Their  timber  being  valuable, 
most  of  it  has  been  sent  aAvay  to  (he  sawmills  (o  be  even(ually  used  for  fur- 
niture and  cabinet  making.  Avhilst  a  large  (pian(ity  has  been  si)lit  in(o  staves. 
Amongst  the  smaller  trees  and  shrubs  (he  musk  Avas  (he  mos(  numerous. 
Very  few  hazels  were  to  be  found  hei-e.  but  there  wei-e  any  amoun(  of  (ree 
ferns.  Of  these  thei'e  were  two  kinds,  the  male  ap.«l  female,  or  king  and 
queen  ferns.  They  Avere  the  oi-naments  of  the  fores(,  and  grew  up  (o  thi-ee 
feet  in  diameter,  and  tAventy  to  thirty  feet  high.  The  barrel  of  (he  (|uecn 
fern  Avas  soft  and  peaty  on  the  outside,  and  the  heart  or  pith  was  Avhite  and 
cheese-like,  and  Avas  eaten  readily  by  po.ssums,  and  is  often  used  as  bait  to 
catch  them.    It  Avas  nothimr  unusual  to  see  a  man  Avith  an  axe  on  his  shoidfler 


258  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

and  a  niiDiber  of  pigs  following  liini  to  a  patch  of  ferns,  wliere  he  would  cut 
some  clown  and  split  them  open,  and  the  pigs  would  then  scoop  out  the  heart 
and  thrJAe  on  it. 

Pittosporum,  dogwood  and  sassafras  were  to  be  seen  scattered  through 
the  scrub:  the  latter  grew  mostly  along  the  creeks  and  in  moist  places.  The 
bark  and  leaves  are  said  to  possess  medicinal  qualities,  and,  being  bitter,  were 
used  as  a  tonic.  Blanketwoods  were  fairly  numerous,  and  the  few  hazel  that 
were  to  be  found  grew  to  a  diameter  of  twelve  inches.  On  some  of  the  neigh- 
bouring selections'  the  scrub  was  mostly  hazel,  and  so  dense  that  one  could 
hardh"  make  his  way  through  it.  The  rope-like  supplejack  often  reached 
to  the  topmost  branches  of  the  smaller  trees,  where  it  spread  itself  out,  and 
in  Springtime  was  a  beautiful  sight,  its  flowers  forming  a  white,  sheet-like 
covering  over  the  tops  of  the  trees.  It  is  very  strong,  and  has  often  been 
found  entAvined  round  a  small  hazel  so  tightly  that  the  hazel  has  gi'own  out 
of  shape,  and  when  relieved  of  rhe  supplejack  had  a  corkscrew-like  appearance. 
On  account  of  the  denseness  of  this  scrub,  it  was  A'ery  easy  to  get  lost  unless 
one  had  a  compass,  or  was  an  experienced  bushman.  On  one  occasion  a  Mr. 
Morrow,  a  neAv  chum  just  out  from  the  old  country,  came  to  visit  his  brother, 
and  one  Sunday  afternoon  went  to  see  Avhat  the  scrub  Avas  like,  and  lost  him- 
self, but  was  found  next  day.  little  the  worse  for  his  experience. 

In  the  scrub  there  were  large  numbers  of  Avallabies,  paddymelons.  inno- 
cent looking  monkey  bears,  black  mountain  possums,  and  packs  of  dingoes 
or  Avild  dogs.  Some  of  the  latter  seemed  to  l)e  half-l)red  Xewfoundlands.  black 
and  white  in  colour,  and  on  account  of  their  ravages  Ave  could  not  keep 
sheep,  or  other  small  animals,  such  as  cahes  and  pigs,  unless  they  were  Avell 
protected  in  dog-proof  enclosures. 

Among  those  of  the  earlier  settlers  who  Avere  here  before  Ave  came  were 
Messrs.  Campbell  Bros..  Inglis  Bros.,  Xicol  and  AlernshaAv.  of  ]Mardan.  and 
Messrs.  Penaluna,  Rout,  Bensley,  and  Napier,  of  Mirboo. 

Fai'uiing  a^  we  Avere  accustomed  to  at  Meredith  Avould  not  pay  here,  there 
being  no  roads,  and  the  hills  so  steep  that  produce  could  not  be  carted  away: 
and  to  husband  our  small  capital,  it  Avas  necessary  to  go  out  and  work  for 
neighbours,  to  get  the  wdiercAvithal  to  keep  the  pot  boiling,  and  for  that  reason 
our  own  scrub  had  to  be  cut  in  small  jjatchcb.  Our  next  clearing  Avas  another 
ten  acres.  We  tried  to  have  all  scrub  cut  by  the  end  of  September,  taking 
doAvn  everything  up  to  tAvo  feet  in  diameter,  and  as  close  to  the  ground  as  we 
could  conveniently  w-ork.  except  the  ferns,  Avhich  Ave  cut  as  high  as  possible 
and  then  lopped  their  heads  off  about  six  inches  from  the  top.  If  this  were  not 
done,  they  Avould  continue  groAving  and  spoil  the  burn.  In  picking  up  after 
the  burn,  it  Avas  useless  to  pack  the  ferns  along  Avith  the  timber,  as  they  Avould 
spoil  the  fires  and  give  a  lot  of  trouble.  We  found  the  best  Avay  Avas  to  cut 
them  into  lengths  and  stack  them  on  end  and  leave  them  until  the  following 
Summer.  Avhen  they  Avould  biu-n  readily.  Me  found  the  month  of  May 
the  best  time  to  soav  the  gi-ass  seed.  The  amount  usually  soAvn  Avas  about 
20]bs.  of  cocksfoot,  31bs.  of  rye-gi'ass,  and  lib.  of  clover.  l)ut  very  often  only  the 
20ros.  of  cocksfoot  Avas  sown.  In  the  second  year  after  Ave  arrived,  the  raihvay 
to  Boolarra  Avas  opened,  and  later  on  to  Mirboo  Xorth.  Townships  sprang 
up  aroinid  both  these  stations,  and  from  then  on  the  population  increased 
fast.  AVe  Avere  able  to  get  plenty  of  Avork  and  Avere  able  to  cut  our  OAvn  scrub 
in  larger  areas,  until  all  avus  cleared  and  muler  grass,  and  later.  Ave  boiight 
another  l)lock  of  190  acres  adjoining  on  the  south.     Dairying  Avas  the  only 


260  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

ii.-c  \h\-  eiiuiitrv  was  lit  for  in  the  e;irly  days.  The  milk  was  set  m  pans  and 
skimnuHl  in  the  old  Avay,  then  churned  and  made  up  into  half  pounds  by- 
hand,  packed  in  boxes  and  taken  by  sledj^e  to  the  railway  station  at  Boolarra, 
where  it  Avas  consigned  to  the  auction  room  m  Melbourne.  Although  we  had 
the  spring  cart,  the  hills  and  track  were  so  steep  and  rough  that  vehicular 
traffic  was  impossible,  and  for  some  years  after  the  raihvay  Avas  opened  the 
sledge  and  the  pack  horse  were  the  only  means  of  transport.  At  first  our 
butter  used  to  realise  1/6  to  2/-  per  ]iound  in  Winter. 

When  butter  factories  iirst  came  into  existence,  creameries  sprang  up  in 
all  directions.  One  was  established  near  our  selection,  and  we  were  able  to 
take  our  milk  to  it  every  morning,  bringing  the  skim  milk  back  to  feed 
calves  and  pigs.  The  price  for  butter  came  down  to  7d.  or  Sd.  per  pound,  and 
a  few  years  later  the  dairymen  began  to  get  separators  and  take  their  cream  to 
the  nearest  factory.  Then  the  creameries  were  removed,  and  now  that  the 
roads  have  improved,  the  factories  send  carts  round  and  collect  the  cream. 

A  seam  of  black  coal  was  found,  and  worked  for  a  time,  about  half  a 
mile  west  of  Boolarra.  but  Avas  too  small  to  be  payable.  About  a  mile  to  the 
east  of  the  toAA  nship  there  is  a  very  extensi\'e  seam  of  brown  coal.  A  company 
was  formed  to  Avork  it.  a  raihvay  laid  doAAii  and  machinery  erected,  but  a 
short  time  afterwards  the  machinery  and  line  were  removed,  and  to-day  the 
coal  remains  undeveloped.  I  have  no  doubt  that  at  some  future  time  it  Avill 
be  of  considerable  value  to  the  State. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  D.  McLEOD. 

Ill  any  retrospect  of  early  pioneering  clays,  I  feel 
disposed  first  to  honour  the  memory  of  my  respected 
friend.  Mr.  M.  W.  Elliott,  now  of  Koriiniburra.  but 
who  was  the  original  owner  of  the  land  now  laiown 
as  Pariy's. 

In  the  earliest  days  the  residents  of  Jeetlio  and 
Jumbunna  contributed  a  small  annual  sum  to  the 
late  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes,  of  Arawata  (then  living 
near  the  Bass  Bridge,  Poowong).  for  the  weekly 
delivery  of  their  mails  from  Poowong.  This  duty 
Avas  usually  performed  by  one  of  Mi'.  TTolnies's 
sons'  on  a  Simday.  Mr.  Elliott  was  the  furthest 
point  south  to  which  the  delivery  was  made,  and 
as  Mr.  Elliott  kept  open  house  to  his  friends  fur- 
ther south,  his  place  became  a  popular  Sunday  after- 
noon lesort.  Here  the  comparatively  ohl  ivsidents 
and  the  new  arrivals  met  and  discussed  their  ]U'e- 
vious  Aveek's  work  and  their  future  prospects.  Here, 
also,  were  projected  public  schemes,  many  of  wliich 
were  afterwards  realised,  and  all  had  the  enthusiastic  sui)port  of  ^fr.  Elliott. 

In  Sei)teml)er.  1<SS:2.  I  made  my  first  ac(]uaintance  with  the  disd'ict.  and 
as  the  roads  were  at  their  worst  at  that  season  of  the  year,  it  took  two  days' 
Strenuous  travelling  to  reach  Jumbunna  East  from  Melbourne.  One  Sat- 
urday morning  I  took  the  7.1.5  a.m.  train  from  Melbourne  to  Dionin.  .Vfter 
an  early  dinnei-  at  Drouiii.  I  boarded  Mr.  Sid  Watt's  coach  ;m<l  we  started 
for  Poowong  about  11  o'clock.  Although  raining  most  of  the  day.  and  the 
coach  Avas  in  many  places  axle  deep  in  mud,  T  was  landed  withont  incident 
at  the  Poowong  post  office  about  sundown.  At  that  time  Mis.  lloi>iey  kv\A 
the  post  office  at  her  own  home,  and  also  kejit  an  accommodation  iionse, 
chiefly  for  the  convenience  of  residents  "down  South,"  as  .Feetho  and  .Jum- 
bunna districts  were  then  popularly  called.  Mrs.  Ilors'ley  and  family  liad 
earned  the  reputation  of  providing  first  class  fare  in  a  most  liospit!d)le 
manner.  In  my  case  the  reception  was  especially  cordial,  as  I  was  meeling 
future  neighbours  as  well  as  making  new  friends,  as  we  had  applied  for  land 
adjoining  that  of  Horsley  Bros.,  in  Jntnbnnna  East. 

Tlie  following  morning  (Sunday)  I  was  j)r()vj_ded  with  a  saddle  hoi>e 
bv  Mr.  Holmes,  ^'oung  "'IVd"  Holmes  accomi)anied  me.  riding  one  hoi-se 
with  the  "Down  South"'  mails  in  fronl.  and  driving  a  pack  lif)rse  loaded  with 
a  miscellaneous  assortment  of  articles,  which  he  distributed  with  the  mails 
in  boxes  placed  at  side  tracks,  or  at  the  edges  of  clearing?  through  which  we 
passed. 

The  track  a-  bii'  ;is  Mr.  K.  (\  llolnio"  (now  \\"onil.;ihino  I  w.-i--  clnircd 
of  trees  and  logs  to  a  width  of  about  20  feet,  and  was  tolerably  good.  The 
balance  of  the  track  was  just  wide  enough  to  take  a  pack  hor-e.  and  wm.^  one 


■262  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

^^treak  of  imul  of  varying  depth  from  end  to  end.  with  the  exception  of  a  few 
cleariuii.-.  throa,2;]i  which  wo  nas.-ed.  The  track  to  Mr.  E.  C.  Hohne**  had 
recently  heen  cleared  by  the  Shire  Council.  We  w^ere  situated  in  the  Buln 
Buln  Sliire.  the  headquarters  of  which  were  at  Drouin,  while  the  south  boun- 
dary extended  to  the  Powlett  river. 

Although  the  district  had  been  settled  for  some  years,  no  work  had 
been  done  further  south  than  that  just  mentioned,  and  the  settlers  complained 
that  their  rates  were  being  spent  in  the  formation  of  the  Drouin  streets. 

Beyond  Holmes'  all  the  track  cutting  had  been  done  by  the  pioneers  at 
their  own  exj'ense,  and  it  often  became  necessary  to  cut  a  track  arottnd  or 
through  a  fallen  tree,  and  at  times  to  cut  a  parallel  track  some  distance,  where 
the  original  one  had  become  impassable  by  depth  of  mud.  Aboitt  dark  we 
I'eached  the  homestead  of  Mr.  Elliott,  where  those  living  south  were  con- 
gregated, awaiting  the  arrival  of  their  mails.  I  was  here  met  by  my  brother 
Murdoch,  who  had  arrived  some  time  previottsly.  and  had  estatjlished  a 
camp.  Here  1  also  met  Messrs.  J.  Glew,  E.  K.  Herring  and  A.  W.  Elms:  the 
first-named  a  resident  of  some  fotir  years  standing,  and  the  two  latter  the 
most  recent  arrivals,  who  had  just  completed  their  course  at  the  Dookie  Ag- 
ricultttral  College,  and  who  afterwards  became  actively  identified  with  the 
progress  of  the  district.  We  completed  the  journey  on  foot  in  the  company 
of  Messrs.  Glew.  Herring  and  Elms  as'  far  as  Glew's.  There  I  was  surprised 
to  find  a  serviceable,  five-roomed  brick  house,  neatly  furnished,  and  with  a 
corrugated  iron  roof,  bttilt  some  three  years  previottsly.  The  bricks  had 
been  made  on  the  place  from  grotntd  sandstoite.  and  the  iron,  lime  and 
cement  and  fittings  had  been  carted  to  Poowong.  and  carried  out  from  there 
by  pack  horses  at  a  total  cost  of  £15  to  £20  per  ton.  This  was  still  the  ruling 
rate  for  delivei-y  of  groceries  and  goods. 

After  a  short  stay  at  Mr.  Glew's.  we  continued  our  jotirney  to  the  camp, 
about  half  a  mile  further  into  the  scrub.  The  morning  after  my  arrival*  we 
went  exploring  through  the  scrtib  in  qttest  of  a  suitable  place  to  commence 
scrub  cutting.  We  travelled  south  until  we  cam.e  to  a  steep  fall  in  the  country 
southwards,  and  there  on  the  edge  of  the  hill  we  considered  by  the  lay  of  the 
country  that  we  should  be  within  sight  of  the  ocean.  I  climbed  a  blackwood 
spar  while  my  brother  cut  a  narrow  strip  of  scrttb  down  the  side  of  the  hill, 
until  the  ocean  was  plainh-  visible.  Here  we  decided  to  make  our  first  clear- 
ing. A  few  day's  scrtib  cutting  afterwards  revealed  a  magnificent  panorama 
of  sea  and  landscape.  The  place  we  first  opened  ttp  is  the  identical  spot 
upon  Avhich  the  original  house  (now  Golding's)  stands. 

With  a  few  hints  from  practical  men.  we  soon  became  adepts 
in  the  art  of  scrub  cutting,  and  found  the  work  very  interesting, 
if  of  a  somewhat  arduous  and  dangerous  nature.  It  was  impossible, 
on  account  of  the  entanglements  of  supplejack,  to  fall  each  spar 
individually,  and  in  any  case  that  would  be  too  slow  a  process.  The 
chief  art.  combining  speed  with  economy  of  labour,  lay  in  not  cutting  the 
spar  completely  through,  but  in  notching  it  on  each  side  and  leaving  sufficient 
wood  to  support  it.  and  at  the  same  time  weaken  it  sufficiently  to  break 
completely  off  when  it  was  desired  to  make  a  fall.  Avhich  was  done  by  cutting 
a  laro:e  spar  throuirh  and  falling  it  unon  the  notched  area.  An  adept  cutter 
might  secure  a  fall  of  a  chain  in  width  liy  several  chains  in  length.  This  had 
the  advantage  of  fallincr  it  all  in  the  one  direction,  thereby  facilitating  a 
good  bm-n.  combined  with  convenience  in  ])icking  up.     A  good  scrub  cutter 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  263 

also  required  to  be  an  expert  in  the  vise  of  his  legs,  using  them  to  brush 
rtside  tussocks  of  swordgrass  while  delivering  the  blow,  as  the  serrated  edges 
of  the  swordgrass  cut  like  a  knife  if  they  came  in  contact  with  the  hand, 
especially  in  wet  weather. 

As  the  cartage  was  so  expensive  via  Poowong.  Ave  decided  to  open  up 
communication  with  Anderson's  Inlet  and  get  our  goods  via  that  port.  Ac- 
cordingly, about  the  beginning  of  November,  1882,  those  interested  connnenced 
to  cut  a  track,  starting  at  the  southern  end  of  Glew's  clearing,  and  cleared 
everything  to  a  width  of  15  to  20  feet.  Mr.  Glew  was  represented  by  a  man, 
and  Messrs.  Herring,  Elms.  Parsons,  my  brother  and  1  worked  j^ersonally. 
After  about  five  weeks'  work  we  reached  the  Powlett  river.  The  site  of  the 
first  bridge  across  the  river  was  deteiinincd  Ijv  the  position  of  two  blackbutt 
sj)ars  which  were  in  a  convenient  position  to  fall  across  the  stream  to  the 
opposite  bank  and  which  did  duty  as  stringers;  the  third  was  drawn  from 
some  little  distance  by  our  united  efforts.  These  we  covered  with  split  black- 
wood  spars  as  a  decking.  Once  across  the  river,  it  was  a  matter  of  only  a 
day  or  two  to  connect  with  the  existing  track  from  the  foot  of  the  hills  to  the 
Inlet.  After  Christmas  we  all  purchased  our  season's  stores  in  Melbourne,  and 
had  them  brought  round  by  boat  to  Anderson's  Inlet.  We  contracted  with 
Mr.  Archie  Bee  to  deliver  the  goods  by  bullock  waggon.  On  his  first  trip 
he  reached  the  foot  of  the  hills  Avith  a  considerable  load  Avithout  trouble, 
but  unwisely  attempted  to  bring  the  full  load  up  the  hills.  AVhen  clearing 
the  track,  aa'c  were  compelled  to  go  straight  up  and  doAvn  the  hills,  as  it  Avas 
impossible  to  utilise  the  hillside  and  secure  the  easier  grade,  made  i)racticable 
later  on  by  side  cuttings.  Before  he  reached  the  top  of  the  first  hill,  the  load 
had  beaten  the  team,  and  brought  them  to  the  bottom  again  at  the  great  risk 
of  iDreaking  the  necks  of  the  polers.  We  tried  to  induce  INIr.  Bee  to  divide 
the  load  and  come  up  Avith  half,  but  his  first  failure  had  so  disheartened  him 
that  he  declined  to  make  another  attempt  Avith  the  Avaggon.  ISIr.  (Jlew  then 
made  a  strong  sledge  Avhich  Avas  used  for  the  next  feAv  years,  before  an  attempt 
Avas  again  made  to  ascend  with  a  heavy,  loaded  vehicle. 

After  the  pioneers  burned  off  their  first  lot  of  scrub,  all  kinds  of  dwel- 
lings Avere  erected:  some  in  the  spar  country  made  log  huts;  others  among 
good  splitting  timber  built  Avith  slabs  or  palings,  Avhile  others  Avho  Avanted 
something  more  i)retentious  erected  pitsaAvs  and  cut  the  necessary  Aveather- 
boards.  flooring  and  stiuls  by  hand. 

In  1882,  oui-  hut  Avas  I  he  fui-thest  south.  Messrs.  Elms,  Herring  and 
Parsons  were  residing  temporarily  at  Mr.  (ilev".^  whil<>  Messrs.  Iloi^^ley  hn.s. 
had  not  yet  come  to  reside  on  their  land.  We  had  occasional  visits  from 
prospective  .settlers,  and  a  portion  of  our  time  was  occupied  in  e.vploriug  the 
scrub  and  showing  visitors  suitable  blocks.  Distance  was  calcidated  by  (inie. 
We  calculated  to  Avalk  an  average  of  a  mile  in  (50  to  SO  minutes,  acorcbng  to 
the  nature  of  the  country,  with  additional  time  added  for  wiregrass()r 
unusual  obshudes.  On  one  "occasion  a  party  fi-om  Lancefield  arrived,  inchuhng 
Mcssr.-.  \V.  McK-'ii/ic  .Mcdiaru,  .b)hn  (lamion.  Cutter,  and  Fitzgerald.  We 
put  in  several  days  exploring  the  s'crul)  to  the  Avest  and  south,  with  the 
resuk  that  Me.-srs."  John  (iannon  and  Wni.  M(d\(>ii/ic  Medlar^  returned 
later  on  an.!  selected  blocks.  On  that  occasion  an  annr^ing  midnight  nieideni 
occurred.  At  that  time  Ave  Avere  camped  in  the  scrub,  suiTounded  l)y  lai-g^' 
trees.  The  hut  Avas  built  of  blackAVOod  spars  placed  on  eiul  Avith  a  l):irlc  roof, 
and  as  the  bark  had  become  curled,  it  Avas  neither  rain  nor  animal  proof. 
Durina-  the  evening  a   discussion  arose  as  to  the  probal)dity  ol   :i   i.Mrli.-uIar 


•264  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

tree  falling  on  the  hut  should  it  be  uprooted  by  a  gale  which  was  then  strongly 
blowing.  At  that  time  the  paddymelons  and  possums  were  botli  numerous 
and  bold,  and  used  to  come  around  at  night  and  pick  up  scraps  of  food  thrown 
out.  Some  of  our  visitors  slept  on  the  floor,  with  their  heads  under  the  table. 
During  the  night  I  heard  a  great  commotion,  and  on  looking  up  saw  one  of 
the  party  holding  a  lighted  match  Avhile  Mr.  (irannon  was  in  the  act  of 
assisting  a  possum  thi-ough  a  hole  in  the  roof  with  a  long  handled  shovel.  It 
appears  the  possum  had  been  prowling  around  in  search  of  sugar  or  other 
dainties,  and  had  dislodged  a  large  vegetable  marrow  which  lav  on  a  shelf. 
The  maiTOw  came  crashing  down  upon  the  table  over  the  heads  of  the  visitors 
and  caused  the  alarm.  In  discussing  the  matter  the  following  day,  one  of  the 
party  said  he  thought  "his  time  had  come,''  as  he  Avas  confident  it  was  the 
big  tree  crashing  through  the  roof  on  top  of  us. 

On  the  first  of  August,  1883,  the  Postal  Department  granted  a  weekly 
mail  service  as  far  as  our  place,  and  in  Xovember  of  the  same  year  this  was 
made  a  tri-weekly  service.  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes  by  a  petition  was  instrumental 
in  securing  this  service.  Mr.  Holmes  had  provided  himself  with  two  copies 
of  the  petition,  one  neatly  drawn  out  in  the  orthodox  style  for  transmission 
to  the  Postmaster-General;  the  other  was  penned  in  his  own  facetious  style, 
and  concluded.  "We  have  the  honor  to  be.  You  old  fossil.  Your  obedient 
servants',"  which  he  presented  to  those  who  enjoyed  a  joke.  Mr.  Holmes  was 
working  "down  South"'  at  the  time,  and  when  he  had  secured  the  necessary 
signatures,  sent  the  papers  on  to  Poowong  Avith  instructions  to  his  wife  to 
procure  an  official  envelope  and  enclose  the  properly  drawn  out  petition  with 
the  list  of  signatures  to  the  Postmaster-General.  Mr.  Holmes  recei^'ed  a 
shock  when  he  returned  home  on  Saturday  night  to  find  that  Mrs.  Holmes 
had  mistaken  his  instructions,  and  enclosed  both  copie,<  of  the  petition.  He 
breathed  more  freely,  however,  the  folloAving  Saturday  when  he  foimd  the 
irregidar  copy  of  the  petition  had  been  returned  Avithout  comment,  but  with 
a  red  ink  line  draAvn  through  "You  old  fossil.""  The  following  Aveek  our 
petition  Avas  gi-anted.  When  the  tri-Aveekly  mail  Avas  established.  Mr.  Jas. 
Dixon,  storekeeper  of  Poowong,  secured  the  contract,  and  Mr.  "Ted" 
Dixon,  then  a  recent  arrival  from  the  '"Old  Country."'  had  charge  of 
the  deliver^'  for  the  first  three  years.  At  the  beginning  of  1884  a  Post 
Ofhce  was' established,  and  I  had  the  honour  of  being  the  first  post- 
master. After  a  lapse  of  two  or  three  years  the  office  Avas  remoA-ed  to  the 
residence  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Elms,  and  Avas  shortly  afterAvards  named  "Moyarra." 
It  was  subsequently  removed  to  the  residence  of  Mr.  Wm.  Elms.  The  service 
was  afterAvards  extended  to  KongAvak.  and  later  on  became  a  daily  service. 
At  the  time  of  the  transfer  of  the  Post  Office  to  Mr.  A.  W.  Elms,  a  loosebag 
serAnce  was  extended  to  Mr.  Gillespie's  old  store.  After  the  opening  of  the 
Outtrim  coal  mine,  this  Avas  transferred  to  his  new  premises  in  Main  street 
and  became  a  Post  Office.  After  a  time,  postal  matters  became  of  sufficient 
importance  to  Avarrant  a  separate  building,  and  the  office  Avas  removed  a  few 
doors  up  the  street.  It  was  subsequenlty  transferred  to  Hoarey's  buildings, 
where  it  Avas  rais'ed  to  the  status  of  a  Staff  Office. 

During  the  first  feAv  years  we  could  only  produce  crops  that  could 
walk  to  market,  and,  as  far  as  sheep  AA-ere  concerned,  the  tracks  were  only 
passable  from  December  to  March.  One  great  drawback  to  the  keeping  of 
sheep  Avas  the  prcA^alence  of  footrot.  oAving  to  the  compulsory  yarding  at 
night,  as  a  protection  against  the  ravages  of  dingoes  Avhich  infested  the  scrub, 
and.  in  addition,  the  market  Huctuated  to  a  point  V»elow  anything  possible 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  -265 

since  the  introduction  of  freezing-  for  export.  Our  first  consignment  of  fat 
sheep  to  Me.ssr>.  Pear.-on.  Kowe.  Siviitli  v.V:  C(»..  of  Melbourne,  in  ^hircli.  1885 
(I  think),  realised  an  averaoe  of  10/3  per  head  for  a  lot  of  crossbred  ewes 
averaging-  about  TOlbs.  Aveight.  Avith  a  fi^e  months'  growth  of  wool.  The 
highest  average  for  the  day  for  eAves  was  10/6  for  a  line  from  Mr.  Neil 
Black,  JNIt.  Xoorat. 

Cattle  had,  also,  their  disadvantages  on  account  of  the  prevalence  of 
pleuro-pneumouia,  especially  m  bullocks  imported  from  Ncav  South  AVales, 
our  chief  soiu'ce  of  supply  before  the  general  introduction  of  dairying  in 
Victoria.  The  Departnien't  of  Agriculture  at  that  time  was  prepared  to 
supply  a  quantity  of  lymph  suliicient  to  do  100  head  of  cattle  for  a  guinea, 
but  most  people  preferred  to  allow  the  disease  to  develo})  in  one  of  their 
own  herd  and  secure  fresh  lymph,  as  they  considered  that  supplied  by  the 
Department  was  too  often  ineffective,  and  attended  with  considerable  risk. 
On  one  occasion,  a  resident  forwarded  a  guinea  to  the  Department  with  a 
request  for  a  supply  of  lymph;  about  a  tablespoonful  came  to  hand,  with  a 
leaflet  giving  full  instructions  for  the  vaccination  of  children.  As  there  was 
not  sufficient  Ivmph  to  inoculate  half  the  herd,  and  as  the  colour  suggested 
calf  lymph  and  there  were  no  children  in  the  district  to  vaccinate,  it  was 
considered  safer  to  throw  it  out,  and  await  the  develoi^ment  of  the  disease 
in  a  beast.  It  was  not  always  certain  that  a  supply  of  lymph  could  be 
secured  from  a  beast  apparently  in  the  proper  stage.  I  once  saw  the  late 
Mr.  Thos.  Scott,  of  Poowong.  who  was  an  expert  at  the  work,  kill  two  bul- 
locks in  succession  Avithout  getting  a  suitable  supply  of  lymi)h.  The  first  beast 
slaughtered  Avas  badly  infected  Avith  tuberculosis,  as  Avell  as  ])leuro,  and  Avas 
passed  over.  The  next  one  had  one  lung  in  such  an  advanced  stage  that  the 
Anrulence  of  the  lymph  Avould  probably  have  killed  off  the  entire  herd,  while 
the  other  lung  Avas  so  slightly  att'ected  that  no  lymi)h  could  be  obtained.  This 
was  an  exceptional  case.  hoAvever,  as,  usually,  if  one  lung  was  loo  far  ad- 
vanced the  other  Avould  be  in  a  proper  stage. 

In  the  early  days.  Ave  used  sometimes  to  exchange  labour  Avith  one 
another  in  cases  where  extra  hands  were  required,  and  were  often  entertained, 
and  sometimes  misled,  bv  the  mimicry  of  the  lyre  bird.  On  ()ne  occasion  Mr. 
Herring  and  I  Avere  a.ssisting  Mr.  Parsons  (who.se  selection  was  furthest 
Avest  at  that  time)  to  place  in  position  the  logs  of  his  first  log  hut.  and  were 
suddenlv  surpiised  to  hear  the  sound  of  a  couple  of  axes  m  the  scrub  to  the 
westward.  Oui-  first  surmise  was  that  some  of  the  settlers  or  land  seekers 
from  AVest  Jumbunna  wei-e  making  their  way  through.  We  were  aware  that 
the  Me'^sTs  Scott  Bros..  Sheei)\vav  and  others  had  come  m  Irom  the  dlenalvie 
.side,  and  Avere  not  far  distant,  although  we  had  not  ai)|)roached  one  another 
throu^rh  the  scrub.  Eventuallv.  we  coticluded  it  was  our  friend,  the  lyre  bird, 
up  to^ome  of  his  mimicry  tricks  again.  Several  times  diinng  the  d;.v  ue 
heard  him  mimic  our  axes.  saAV  and  various  other  sounds. 

The  ))ird  and  insect  life  of  the  forest  was  a  source  of  genuine  cnjuyinent 
tothei/ioneer.  who.  while  he  inevitably,  though  reluctantly,  destroyed  it  with 
the  destruction  of  the  forest,  enjoyed  the  rich  strains  of  h^irmony  to  which  he 
aAvoke  in  the  earlv  morning:  or  with  which  the  air  seemed  to  vibrate  m  the 
calm  of  a  Spring  or  a  Summer  evening,  when  all  manimale  nature  seemerl 
at  repose.  These,  with  the  destruction  of  th.-  scrub,  have  disappe.,red  coni- 
pletelv  and  pernianentlv,  only  to  remain  a  ni.-ninrv  ol  things  thai  have  l.een, 
in  common  with  many  other  associations  of  pioneer  life. 


Recollections   and   Experiences 

MR.  A.  W.  ELMS. 


I  received  my  first  ideas  of  Gippsland  from  the 
weekly  newspapers,  shortly  after  the  Brandy  Creek 
country  had  been  settled,  and  the  Poowong  country 
just  opened  up.  Glovving;  accounts  were  given  of  the 
fertility  of  the  soil  and  the  luxuriant  growth  of 
grass  and  crops.  Mention  was  also  made  of  the 
dense  scrub,  and  clearing  and  burning  it.  also  of 
pack  tracks  and  mud :  and  the  general  idea  I  got  was 
that  Gippsland  vras  a  flat  country  covered  with  a 
dense  scrub  something  like  ti-tree.  I  could  not 
imagine  at  that  time  that  mud  and  hills  could  exist 
together. 

In  June.  1882,  I  travelled  by  train  to  Drouin,  and 
took  coach  from  there  to  Poowong.  There  were 
two  stout  horses  in  the  coach,  and  we  ploughed 
through  a  sea  of  red  mud  to  Clifton's,  Avhere  we 
changed  horses  and  then  started  off  again.  About 
four  or  five  miles  from  Poowong  one  of  the  wheels 
came  off  the  coach,  and  the  driver,  the  well-known 
Sid.  AVatts.  and  I  rode  the  horses  and  carried  the  mails  to  Poowong.  reaching 
the  Post  Office  (Horsley's).  between  seven  and  eight  o'clock.  Luckily,  there 
were  no  other  passengers  in  the  coach,  or  I  do  not  know  how  the  horses 
would  have  been  distributed.  It  felt  very  queer  to  ride  along  in  the  dark, 
through  a  strange  country,  and  to  hear  the  horses'  feet  going  flop,  flop  in  the 
deep  mud. 

After  the  mail  was  sorted  and  distributed  to  those  waiting  I  started  off 
with  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes,  who  carried  a  lantern,  to  walk  to  Mr.  Chas.  Cook's 
place  on  the  Bass,  where  I  stayed  the  night.  As  the  track  we  took  went 
straight  down  the  hill  from  Poowong  to  the  Bass,  all  my  ideas  of  Gipps- 
land being  a  flat  cotmtry  were  shatjered. 

Xext  morning  I  rode  with  the  mailman  (Holmes)  to  Elliott's,  and  Messrs. 
T.  and  W.  Hor.sley  accompanied  us,  but,  knowing  the  conditions  of  the  cotintry 
better  than  1  did.  they  walked,  and  got  on  just  as  fast  as  we  did  on  the  horses. 
A  cart  track  had  been  cut  for  a  couple  of  miles  otit  of  Poowong,  btit  after  that 
there  was  only  a  pack  track. 

Imagine  a  track  about  four  feet  wide  winding  through  the  scrub,  with 
mud  nearly  up  to  a  horse's  knees  on  the  level  parts,  and  with  ridges  and  holes 
like  a  cowyard  on  the  slopes,  with  logs  here  and  there,  wdiich  the  horses  had 
to  scramble  over,  and  broken  into  crabholes  occasionally,  and  you  will  have 
some  slight  idea  of  what  a  pack  track  is  like.  A  rider  had  to  be  always  on 
the  alert,  or  his  horse  would  brush  his  legs  against  the  trees  on  either  side  of 
the  track,  for  the  horses  seemed  to  have  a  notion  that  they  could  avoid  some  of 
the  mud  by  squeezing  along  the  edge,  and  would  often  nearly  fall  down  in 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  -267 

makinc:  the  attempt.  Each  settler  had  cut  his  own  track  to  his  own  clearing 
from  that  of  his  next  neighbour,  and  so  it  zig-zagged  from  one  house  to 
another  all  the  way  down.  The  better  houses  were  made  of  palings',  others 
were  of  logs,  but  at  Glew's  there  Avas  a  brick  house  with  iron  roof.  (Mr. 
Glew  has  told  the  story  of  the  building  of  it  in  another  paper.) 

On  the  wa}'  down  we  met  MessTs.  McLeod  Bros,  and  E.  K.  Herring,  who 
were  returning  after  pegging  out  their  selections.  I  stayed  several  days  with 
Mr.  Glew.  The  next  daj'  he  and  I  accompanied  the  Horsley  brothers,  when 
they  pegged  out  the  block  on  which  the  Jumbunna  Coal  Mine  is  now  worked, 
and  the  day  following  I  pegged  out  my  own  block.  As  judging  the  land  in 
its  original  state  was  almost  an  impossibility  to  one  not  acquainted  with  the 
district,  the  usual  procedure  was  to  peg  out  the  first  vacant  block  and  take 
one's  chance  as  to  what  it  proved  on  being  developed.  At  that  time,  the 
block  where  J.  Cormack  now  is  was  reserved  for  a  township,  and  all  the  land 
east  and  south  of  where  Korumburra  now  is,  with  the  exception  of  E.  L. 
Smith's  and  P.  Shingler's  allotments,  wasi  areserved  from  selection,  and 
reserved  for  coal  mining  purposes. 

Surveying  was  very  expensive,  as  all  the  sight  lines  had  to  be  cut  through 
the  scrub,  in  many  cases  saplings  up  to  18  inches  in  diameter  being  cut  down  to 
get  a  line.  All  journeys  through  scrub  Avere  done  by  compass,  or  by  blazing 
marks  on  trees,  but  the  latter  was  a  tedious  process,  and  only  used  when  a 
line  for  a  track  Avas  re(]uired.  Without  a  compass  one  Avould  get  no  idea  of 
direction,  and  Avould  almost  certainly  get  lost. 

Soon  after  my  arrival  in  the  district,  the  question  of  road  communication 
with  the  coast  arose,  and  Herring  and  I  Avent  by  compass  out  to  the  plains, 
and,  looking  back  for  the  most  promising-looking  ridge,  made  our  Avay  back  by 
it.  As  it  seemed  suitable  for  a  track,  all  interested  worked  together,  and  after 
some  Aveeksof  Avork,  opened  up  a  sledge  track  from Glew's  down  the  ridge  Avhere 
Outtrim  now  is.  and  out  to  the  ])lains.  AVe  made  a  substantial  bridge  over 
the  PoAvlett  River,  almost  exactly  where  the  present  bridge  is,  and  were 
foiUinute  enougli  to  avoid  the  <\\;nup<  bolli  above  and  below  (bat  site.  After 
this,  our  goods  came  by  schooner  or  ketch  to  Anderson's  Inlet,  thence  to 
the  foot  of  the  hills  by  bullock  Avaggon,  and  then  by  sledge  or  pack-horse 
to  the  various'  settlers'  homes.  There  Avas  at  that  time  no  jetty  at  Inver- 
loch,  and  all  stores  had  to  be  landed  by  a  roAving  boat,  and  placed  in  a 
small  shed  on  the  beach.  Prior  to  this  track  being  made,  a  track  had  been 
f)p(ii('d  by  (Mew  and  (ttlicrs  tbrouuli  Spiiiig's,  and  wlicic  "Ivvebuni'"  is  now, 
but   it  went  tliioiigh  a  l)ad  svvam]».  and  Avas  not  so  direct  as  the  neAV  road. 

After  survey,  the  next  business  Avas  to  get  some  scrub  cut  in  order 
to  burn  it  in  the  Summer,  and  sow  gi-ass  seed  on  the  ashes  in  the  Autumn. 
Th(  n  one  usually  built  a  hut  of  some  sort,  generally  of  logs  with  the  cracks 
filled  Avith  fern  stems  or  mud.  Our  history  for  the  next  few  years  Avas 
simply  a  record  of  cutting  scrub  and  getting  land  uudei-  grass.  As  Ave  Avere 
a  bachelor  community,  Ave  often  found  it  convenient  to  work  with  one  another 
turn  about.  During  this  time  much  of  our  accommodation  and  living  Avas 
very  rough  and  primitive.  Clearing  and  sowing  grass  was  the  main  idea 
in  everyone's  mind,  and  present  comfort  Avas  sacrificed  for  future  prospects, 
Avhich  seemed  bright  to  us  at  that   time. 

One  hut  I  lived  in.  while  licl|)ing  a  neighbour  to  cut  his  scrnb,  Avas 
1)11  ilt  in  a  space  cut  out  of  the  hazel  scrub  just  large  enough  for  the  hut, 
and  Avas  made  of  hazel  stems  put  in  a   trench  as  close  togetlier  as  possible. 


268 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


TYI'ICAL    DWELLING      OF    THE    EAKLY    PIONEERS. 


It  was  lined  with  hessian  tacked  on  the  walls,  and  had  a  roof  of  galvanised 
iron,  which  we  carried  on  our  heads  along  a  surveyor's  line  doAvn  a  steep  hill 
and  aero,-^s  a  L!;iilly,  from  the  nearest  pack-track  al)out  half  a  mile  away.  When 
the  scrub  was'  ready  to  burn,  the  iron,  hessian,  stores,  bedding,  etc.,  were 
buried,  and  then  dug  up  again  after  the  "burn."  As  the  scrub  grew  right 
around  the  hut,  it  was  delightful  to  lie  in  the  bunk  on  a  bright  Sunday 
morning  in  Spring  or  early  Summer  and  watch  and  listen  to  the  birds  that 
would  come  right  up  to  the  doorway.  But  on  wild  wet  nights  the  bunk  was  the 
only  comfortable  spot,  for  the  wind  blew  through  the  chinks  and  hessian, 
so  that  one  side  of  us  would  shiver,  although  the  other  side  might  be  almost 
roasted  by  the  fire.  We  found  great  difficulty  in  getting  dry  firewood  in 
such  a  place.  Xearly  everything  that  was  not  green  was  too  rotten  and 
soaked  with  water  to  burn  well,  but  we  found  that  green  hazel  stems 
would  start  a  fire  after  being  cut  for  a  few  days  and  stood  near  the  fire 
overnight,  and  with  the  fire  once  started,  we  could  always  keep  it  going  with 
green  hazel  split  into  small  pieces. 

Cooking  was  a  great  trial,  both  to  the  temper  and  digestion.  We 
begrudged  the  time  taken  by  it  from  our  work.  Advantage  was  taken  of 
wet  days'  to  get  ahead  as  far  as  possible  with  a  supply  of  bread  and  cooked 
meat,  but  when  a  spell  of  fine  weather  came,  the  evening  was  usually  devoted 
to  preparing  food  for  the  next  day.  Bread  was  the  greatest  trouble.  The 
sponge  was  generally  set  in  the  morning,  and  given  all  day  to  rise,  and 
after  work  was  anxiously  inspected  to  see  the  result.  Often  it  would  get 
cold  through  the  day,  and  not  rise  at  all.  Then  perhaps  it  would  be 
warmed  up  before  the  fire  and  given  another  hour  or  two  to  rise.     This 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  -JbO 

would  mean  baking  until  10  or  11  o'clock  at  night.  I  lun'e  often  put  tlie 
bread  on  in  the  camp  oven  to  bake  at  night,  and  got  into  my  bunk  with 
the  intention  of  reading  until  it  was  time  to  take  it  oil,  with  the  result  that 
on  waking  up  I  would  find  it  morning,  and  the  lamp  burnt  out  and  the 
bread  sodden  with  the  steam  that  could  not  escape. 

Though  the  district  seemed  to  olier  little  inducement  to  the  blacks  of 
the  more  open  coastal  district  to  venture  into  it,  yet  we  have  evidence  in 
the  shape  of  their  stone  tomahawks,  which  have  been  found  in  many  places, 
that  they  did  make  excursions  into  the  scrub  country.  These  would  prob- 
ably take  place  after  the  country  had  been  snvept  by  fire  and  before  the  bcrub 
had  time  to  grow  again.  I  have  found  several  stone  tomal  awks  on  my  selec- 
tion, and  also  traces  of  the  blacks  in  a  still  more  curious  maujiti.  About  1885 
I  ring-barked  a  patch  of  trees,  and  afterwards  cut  some  of  them  down 
to  clear  a  place  to  build  a  hut.  Some  years  afterwards,  probably  about  1895, 
1  wanted  some  shingles,  and  started  to  saw  lengths'  for  splitting  out  of  these 
trees  as  far  up  the  barrel  as  it  was  clear  of  branches,  proljably  aUbout  80 
feet  froiii  Ihe  urouiid.  and  where  the  tree  was  about  three  feet  in  diameter. 
As  I  worked  I  noticed  that  outside  a  certain  place  the  gi"ain  of  the  wood 
ran  differently  to  that  inside,  and  I  found  marks  in  the  wooil  at  the  place 
where  the  flaw  occurred.  Eventually.  I  recognised  them  from  their  siiape 
and  position  as  footholds  made  to  climb  the  tree.  They  were  stirrup  shaped, 
above  five  inches  in  height  and  breadth,  and  from  three-quarters  of  an  inch 
to  an  inch  in  depth,  and  the  tomahaAvk  marks  were  quite  distinct,  apparently 
preserved  by  the  sap  filling  them  up  as  the  tree  grew.  The  mark^  were 
sj)aced  just  where  a  man  would  cut  them  when  climbing,  and  wore  about 
seven  inches  in  from  the  outside  of  the  log.  I  kept  a  slab  of  wooil  with  two 
marks  on  it  as  a  curiosity,  but  unfortunately  it  got  burnt  in  tiie  bus'ii  fires  of 
1898. 

Poowong  was'  our  post-office,  and  from  there  we  paid  for  a  weekly 
delivery  of  our  mails  to  Elliott's,  where  the  whole  district  gathered  on  Sunday 
afternoons  to  get  the  mail  and  exchange  experiences.  One  night  1  left  there 
about  dusk  to  get  to  Parsons',  where  I  was  staying.  The  first  part  of 
the  track  was  easy  to  find,  as  the  sound  and  feel  of  the  nnul  tt)ld  one  wliere 
he  Avas,  but  the  last  portion  was'  a  survey  line  through  a  wire-grass  fiat, 
where  the  scrub  was  thin,  and  many  logs  lay  al»<»ut.  Here  in  the  dai-k  I 
spent  about  an  hour  trying  to  find  the  track,  which  wound  in  aiul  out  of 
the  logs,  and  I  had  just  about  made  up  my  mind  to  spend  the  night  in 
the  scrub,  without  any  matches  to  light  a  fire,  when  I  got  on  the  right 
track,  and  was  able,  by  feeling  on  the  ground  foi-  the  cut  stumps,  to  i-each 
my  destination. 

Sunday  was  often  spent  in  exploring,  Distance  was  judged  by  time; 
we  usually  reckoned  an  hour's  travelling  as  a  mile  in  the  scrub.  On  one 
occasion  three  of  us  started  fi-oni  I*arsons',  and  travelled  west  until  we 
struck  the  Foster  Creek,  then  followed  it  down  to  the  (lats,  then  struck  soutli- 
east  until  we  reached  the  |)lains  whei-e  we  could  get  a  good  view  of  the 
hills:  then  striking  norlli  we  reached  McLeod's  selection,  where  we  stayed 
the  night.  This  "i)leasure  ti-ip"  ()c('ni)ie(|  thii-teen  hours'  of  hard  travelling. 
On  another  occasion,  two  of  us  set  out  to  find  our  nearest  neighhouis  to 
the  west,  as  we  knew  settlers  had  come  into  the  disti-ict  from  the  Grantville 
side.  After  travelling  for  some  hours,  and  not  finding  any  sign  of  settle- 
ment, we  were  about  to  i-etui-n  when  we  heai-d  very  faintly  the  lowing  of 
a  coAv  in  the  distance.    This  induced  us  to  continue  our  journey,  and  in  course 


•270  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

of  time  we  reached  the  clearing  of  the  kite  Frank  Scott,  thus  making  our 
first  acquaintance  Avith  our  western  neighbours. 

In  those  daj^s  the  Aveather  seemed  to  be  nearly  always  wet.  If  it  was 
not  actuall}^  raining,  a  drizzle  Avould  take  its  place,  with  the  result  that 
the  usual  thing  when  scrub-cutting  was  to  be  more  or  less  wet  through  all 
day.  If  one  started  out  in  the  morning  with  dry  clothing,  which  was  not 
always  the  case,  travelling  to  Avork  through  the  undergroAAth  AA^ould  saturate 
one  up  to  the  waist,  and  the  first  cut  at  the  moisture-laden  scrub  AA'ould 
drench  the  rest  of  the  body.  Then  at  lunch  one  AA^ould  put  a  coat  over 
the  shoulders  to  keep  the  cold  wind  off  the  wet  shirt,  and  the  meal  would 
be  eaten  Avhile  walking  about  to  aA'oid  getting  too  cold.  EA^erything  was  too 
wet  to  make  a  fire  or  to  proAdde  a  comfortable  seat.  On  Aery  wet  days, 
Avlien  any  prospect  of  work  Avas  hopeless,  we  got  some  amusement  out  of 
watching  the  satin  birds  and  jays  that  used  to  come  round  the  huts  looking 
for  scraps.    They  came  in  flocks  of  a  dozen  or  more,  and  got  A'ery  tame. 

The  pack-tracks  barely  dried  up  in  the  Summer,  and  later,  when  Ave 
got  dray  roads,  we  neA'er  expected  them  to  dry  before  Xmas'.,  and  they 
began  to  get  mudd}^  again  in  March  or  April.  I  have  been  obliged  to 
leave  a  flock  of  sheep  all  night  in  the  scrub  along  the  West  Jeetho  road  in 
Xmas.  week,  owing  to  the  mud  being  so  bad  that  Ave  could  not  get  them  to 
traA^el  half  a  mile  in  a  couple  of  hours. 

Drouin  Avas  the  municipal  headquarters,  and  our  first  trouble  w^as  to 
get  roads  sm'V(^"ed,  after  which  we  gradually  got  the  pack-tracks  converted 
into  roads  suitable  for  vehicles.  This  Avas  a  slow  process,  and  even  after 
the  road  was  cleared  the  necessary  Avidth.  there  was  no  guarantee  that  one 
could  get  anything  to  pull  a  vehicle  along  or  through  it.  I  have  packed 
cream  to  Korumburra,  and  also  taken  it  by  sledge,  owing  to  the  road  being 
impassable  for  anything  on  Avheels,  and  this  after  the  railway  was  opened 
for  traffic. 

In  the  course  of  time  an  agitation  was  started  to  get  a  railway  line  made 
from  Dandenong  to  Port  Albert,  and  CA^entually  this  was  passed  by  Parlia- 
ment. The  survey  took  some  years  to  complete,  OAving  to  the  very  difficult 
nature  of  the  countr}^  and  the  dense  Aegetation.  When  it  Avas  finished,  and 
the  route  decided,  a  Parliamentary  party  travelled  through  the  district, 
and  Avere  entertained  at  a  banquet  in  Yorath's  barn.  This  Avas  the  first  public 
function  of  any  importance  held  in  the  district,  and  was  a  great  success, 
and  very  creditable  to  the  settlers  Avho  carried  it  out  in  the  face  of  great 
difficulties.  The  crockerv  w^as  carted  from  Drouin  to  PooAvong.  and  packed 
fi'om  there.  Tables,  benclies  and  decorations  Avere  made  l^y  the  residents,  and 
the  cooking  was  done  very  nicely  by  a  man  working  in  the  district. 

An  old  log  hut  of  mine  was  the  first  place  where  regular  church  services 
were  held  in  the  Moyarra  district,  and  it  Avas  also  the  first  school-house. 
The  average  attendance  at  first  was  only  about  5,  but  increased  later  on 
to  12  or  13. 

The  first  sport  in  the  district  Avas  cricket,  which  Avas  started  as  soon 
as  the  district  was  properly  settled,  and  matches  were  played  by  the  local 
club  with  PooAA'ong  and  Xorth  PooAvong  on  one  side  and  Wonthaggi  on 
the  other.  It  afforded  a  Avelcome  change  from  our  rather  monotonous  liAes. 
Later,  when  the  lailway  was  made,  clubs  were  formed  at  Loch  and  Bena.  in 
addition  to  those  mentioned  above,  and  considerable  interest  Avas  taken  in 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  271 

the  game.  A  handsome  trophy,  given  for  competition  among  the  district  chibs, 
by  the  Hall  family  as  a  memento  of  a  son  who  died  of  snakebite,  was  won 
after  spirited  competition  by  the  Moyarra  Cricket  Club. 

With  the  coming  of  the  railway  and  improvement  of  road  facilities, 
dairying  was  taken  up  by  many,  who  had  hitherto  been  able  to  do  nothing 
but  grazing.  Cream  separators  had  just  been  introduced  into  the  colony, 
and  soon  the  hum  of  these  machines  was  to  be  heard  on  most  of  the  farms. 
The  first  in  our  locality  was  a  35-gallon  horizontal  De  Laval  machuie  on 
Mr.  C.  Parson's  farm,  and  it  was  as  much  a  curiosity  to  us  then  as  it 
would  be  to  the  3'oung  people  on  the  farms  now,  who  have  only  seen  the 
later  types.  At  first  Ave  all  sent  cream  to  Melbourne,  but  as  this  was  not 
satisfactory,  owing  to  difficulties  of  transit  and  inadequate  returns,  the  ques- 
tion of  starting  a  local  factory  was  considered.  The  first  proposal  was  a 
cheese  factory,  but  eventually  it  was  decided  to  make  butter.  As  cream 
could  be  delivered  to  greater  distances  than  milk,  wi^  next  took  up  the  idea 
of  a  district  factorj'^  on  the  railway  line,  and  arranged  a  meeting  at  Korum- 
burra,  to  Avhich  delegates  fiom  other  districts  were  invited  to  discuss  the 
proposal.  District  jealousy  prevented  this  scheme  being  carried  out.  and 
eventually  the  Moyarra  Co-op.  Butter  Factory  was  established  by  the  farmers 
in  that  locality.  This  was  carried  on  successfully  for  some  years,  and  gave 
the  dairymen  much  better  returns  for  their  cream  than  they  had  got  hitherto. 
Mr.  R.  T.  Archer,  the  manager,  worked  under  great  disadvanlagrs.  but  got 
good  results.  Sometimes,  owing  to  the  scarcity  of  good  water.  huHer  was 
made  without  washing  at  all.  The  factory  had  no  refrigerator,  and  in  very 
hot  weather  ice  was  sometimes  got  from  ^lelbourne  to  cool  the  cream  and 
butter.  As  settlement  extended  south  and  west,  the  factory  found  itself 
on  the  edge  instead  of  in  the  centre  of  its  supply,  and  eventually  ilir  rompauy 
was  dissolved,  and  a  new  factory  established  at  Kongwak. 

The  next  step  in  the  progress'  of  the  district  was  tiie  dexclopiuciit 
of  the  Jumbunna  and  Outtiim  Coal  Mines,  and  the  extension  of  the  rail- 
way to  Duttrim  from  Koruuiburra.  Tliis  had  the  efl'ect  of  bringing  a  hirge 
population  into  the  district  and  the  establishment  of  the  townships  of  .hnn- 
bunna  and  Outtrim.  Tlie  roads  had  meanwhile  been  surveyed  aiul  ch'ared. 
and  although  they  were  vcj-y  bad  at  tiiut's.  still  for  the  grcalcr  pail  of  iht-  year 
they  were  fit  for  vehicles.  The  oiiginal  sui-\eys  were  in  uniny  cases  found 
to  be  impracticable;  for  instiince,  the  first  survey  of  (he  Outlrini  road  climbed 
straight  up  the  ridge  and  over  (he  (op  of  .M<miiiI  Misery:  :iu(l  hc:i\y  .'Npenses 
were  incurred  in  purehasing  dcxindoiiM. 

The  next  item  of  impoiliiinc  in  our  liisloiy  wa.-  Ihr  l>u-li  liif  of  IMhS. 
It  swept  the  greater  part  of  (he  districM,  dcsMroycd  many  homt's(ends,  as  \v«'ll 
as  a  great  part  of  the  fencing,  and  b\irnt  the  grass  so  severely  (ha(  mn<-U 
had  to  be  r(*-sown.  Of  course,  a  (('[(iiin  amouni  of  good  was  dom'  by  burning 
up  logs  iind  rubbish.  l)u(  i(  meant  ;i  li.-iiw  lo-.-  (o  ;i  lot  of  farmers,  who  were 
just   getting  their   farms  in(o  ordn-. 

From  that  (imc  the  hi.story  of  the  district  luis  been  one  of  steady  advance- 
ment towards  b<'ing  oik-  of  Ilic  fort-most  dairying  districts  in  the  State,  and 
although  there  is  still  worii  (o  be  done.  yc(  with  railways  ',\u<\  metalled  roads 
beinf  const  met  c(  I.  tin-  story  of  the  pioneers  may  Im'  said  to  be  (ini-^hed. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  J.  WESTERN. 

In  December  of  1S82,  less  than  four  months  after 
huiding  in  Australia,  my  brotlier  and  I  came  to 
South  Gippsland  looking  for  suitable  land  to  select. 
We  had  just  returned  from  a  lour  through  the 
north-west  be^'ond  Donald  and  Charlton,  but  the 
season  there  being  very  dry,  and  the  outlook  so 
uninviting  to  those  used  to  the  green  fields  of  Eng- 
land, we  decided  to  see  what  the  much-talked  of 
province  of  South  Gippsland  had  to  otter.  Arriving 
at  PooA^  ong,  we  were  at  once  charmed  by  the  lavish 
profusion  of  Xature  on  every  hand.  The  English 
grasses  and  clovers  that  we  saw  here  for  the  first 
time  in  Australia  were  flourishing  in  luxuriant 
riot  in  the  small  clearings,  clearly  proving  the  suit- 
ability of  the  district  to  their  growth,  and  the  thistle, 
that  excellent  judge  of  soil  and  climate,  was  literally 
hanging  over  the  fences,  so  enormous  was  their 
growth  in  the  virgin  soil.  We  were  captivated. 
We  had  not  expected  to  see  anything  like  this, 
and  at  once  made  up  our  minds  to  settle  here.  Making  for  the  nearest  point 
where  land  Avas  available,  we  went  through  the  farce  of  "  pegging-out.''  This 
was  in  the  parish  of  Korumburra,  about  10  mile.,  fi'om  Poowong.  We  were 
piloted  by  Mr.  John  Salmon,  also  a  recent  arrival  from  the  West  of  England, 
and  who  had  taken  up  a  block  in  the  same  locality,  and  was  waiting  for  a 
burn  before  going  out  to  live.  I  shall  never  forget  my  first  impressions 
of  this  great  forest  as  we  went  on  that  da3^  The  trees  towered  up  till, 
their  tops  .seemed  lost  in  space.  The  dense  jungle  of  scrub  underneath,  and 
here  and  there  fern  gullies  of  exquisite  beauty,  and  over  it  all  tliere  reigned 
a  strange  and  oppressive  stillness,  broken  only  by  the  notes  of  the  lyre-bird 
or  grunt  of  the  monkey-bear.  In  afttir  vear^.  when  we  had  been  Ijrought  to 
fully  realise  the  stupendous  task  undertaken  in  redticing  thi.s  fore.st.  one  is 
amazed  at  the  light-hearted  way  it  was  entered  upon.  Xever  in  any  part  of 
the  world  have  I  seen  a  forest  of  stich  magnificent  proportions' — tier  after 
tier  of  growth  from  tangle  of  wiregrass  and  swordgrass  to  fern-tree  and  scrub, 
and  on  to  towering  gumtree,  giving  a  perpetual  twilight  by  dixy  and  black 
darkness  at  night.  But,  in  spite  of  the  dilHciiltie.-,  that  were  so  obvious, 
and  the  knowledge  of  our  inexperience  in  busiicraft,  we  felt  that  what 
others  could  do  we  surely  could  also  learn  to  do.  A  party  of  surveyors,  in 
charge  of  Mr.  Mtinro,  were  at  work  surveying  land  that  had  lieen  lately 
applied  for,  so  we  got  our  applications  in  to  the  Lands  Department,  and 
soon  after  Xew  Year,  1883,  our  land  was  marked  out,  and  we  set  to  work 
at  once  cutting  scrub  for  a  fire  that  season.  Unused  to  axe  work,  our 
hands  blLstered  frightfully.  The  moist  heat  and  want  of  a  breath  of  wind 
was  very  trying  to  new-chum  axemen,  but  we  were  young  and  resolute,  and 
soon  had  about  10  acres  ready  to  fire.  We  built  a  small  hut  of  fern  logs, 
and  over  it  stretched  a  calico  sheet  for  a  roof,  and  on  this  laid  ffreen  fern 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  •_>::; 

fronds  to  keep  the  place  cool,  and  for  our  beds  we  had  tliat  ■"niidiiiy.'ht  agony" 
knoAvn  as  bag-  stretchers.  For  a  table  a  sheet  of  bark,  while  a  length  of  fern 
log  made  a  substantial  seat.  As  one  looks  back  to  those  early  days,  and  thinks 
of  it  all — the  hard  work  and  scanty  fare,  the  isolation,  the  very  limited  capital 
at  our  dispa'-al.  and  the  prospect  of  no  returns  for  two  years — one  is  amazed 
at  his  own  daring.  It  was  good  that  we  could  not  then  see  the  full  extent 
of  the  prol)lem  before  us,  with  its  long  years  of  hard  toil.  Instead  of  anxiety 
for  the  future,  there  was  always  a  spirit  of  cheerful  optimism  about  the 
early  settlers.  We  counted  the  steps  to  affluence  by  the  years  that  it  would 
take  to  cut  all  the  scrub:  the,  disappointments  of  bad  burns,  caterpillars, 
second  growth,  low  prices  of  stock,  etc.,  were  then  not  dreamed  of. 

AVe  were  the  pioneers  of  this  locality — our  little  clearing  a  salient  pushed 
out  into  the  "  Xever-never."  Our  nearest  neighbours  were  five  miles  back 
on  Whitelaw's  Track.  AVe  were  linked  to  them  by  a  tiny  ribbon  of  track 
through  the  forest,  but  soon  others  began  to  come  and  take  up  residence 
on  their  land,  and  within  a  year  a  rush  for  land  set  in  that  soon  absorbed 
all  the  available;  country  eastward  as  far  as  Mirboo.  That  first  Autumn, 
after  picking-up  and  sowing  our  clearing,  we  built  a  small  two-roomed  house 
of  the  usual  bush  type,  the  materials  all  having  to  be  split  from  trees  in  the 
forest  and  carried  on  our  shoulders.  The  first  night  we  occupied  it  we  had 
a  full  house;  a  party  of  five  or  six  men,  from  Kerang  district,  looking  for 
land,  piloted  by  Mr.  T.  J.  Coverdale.  reached  our  clearing  at  sunset,  and, 
of  course,  stayed  the  night.  It  taxed  the  capacity  of  our  establishment 
to  the  utmost  to  accommodate  them. 

The  whole  of  the  first  Winter  Avas  spent  at  scrub-cutting,  and  with 
a  little  help  Ave  got  a  fine  stretch  cut.  It  was  most  interesting  to  watch  day 
by  day  as  the  scrub  was  felled,  the  gradual  unfolding  of  the  ground  plan 
of  your  farm,  for  one  harl  but  little  idea  of  its  topography  while  it  Avas  in 
scrub.  Early  in  the  Spring  Ave  had  a  visit  from  Mr.  John  I^ardner.  who  was 
engaged  in  surveying  a  road  from  Anderson's  IrJet  northwards  to  where 
Leongatha  noAv  stands,  and  on  to  the  ridge  betAveen  the  Ruby  and  Wilkur 
creeks,  Avhich  ran  east  and  west.  He  Avas  carrying  his  survey  along  this 
ridge,  noAv  kiioAvn  as  the  Fairbank  road,  and  having  heard  of  our  clearing, 
had  come  through  the  scrub  in  search  of  it,  intending  to  mak'e  it  the  site  of 
his  next  camp  as  he  pushed  his  w^ay  Avest.  We  gave  him  a  warm  welcome,  for 
the  prospect  of  company  Avas  a  very  delightful  one;  and  so  for  about  four 
months  his  ])arty  camped  Avith  us.  He  continued  west  till  his  survey  jnnc- 
tioned  with  Whitelaw's  Track,  then  surveyed  anollier  road  along  the  ridge 
south  of  llic  Ivuby  Creek,  which  ]»assed  through  our  clearing,  joining  his 
first  sur\ey  again  near  Leongatha.  The  road  surA'cyor's  task  was  a  most 
difficult  one.  He  had  to  feel  his  Avay  along  laboriously  through  the  dense 
scrul).  often  finding  himself  out  on  a  spur  instead  of  being  on  the  main  lidge 
wliich  he  was  ii-ying  to  follow.  It  was  almost  imi)ossibJe  to  properly  locate 
the  road  till  the  scrub  was  cleared  aAvay,  when  many  alterations  had  to  be 
made. 

Tiioiigli  it  was  an  abnormally  wet  Summer,  we  got  some  line  weathei' 
in  February,  and  neai-  the  end  of  the  month  scored  a  \'erv  <i;o<Kl  burn.  What 
a  gieat  lire  it  >eeiiie(l  t(.  our  mcvn  chum  eyes,  and  how  it  seemed  to  lick  up  the 
great  tangle  of  scrub.  One  cannot  easily  foi-get  the  joy  and  excitemeut  of 
for  the  Hist  time  >camperiiig  across  dial  lOO-acrc  clearing.  Hot-foot,  indi'cd  I 
for  we  were  all  ovci'  it  while  the  gr(»und  was  still  covered  with  the  burning 
embers  and   the   air    lull    of  -moke.      \\'hat    a    change   Iwo   hours   of   lii-e   had 


274  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

Avi()u<2:ht  I  A\'e  were  forest  dwellers  no  longer,  and  Ave  could  understand  to 
some  extent  the  transports  of  Stanley's  Africans  when  they  emerged  from 
the  Conac)  forests  to  the  plains. 

In  the  Autumn  of  that  year,  Avhen  the  ivy  and  cress  that  used  to  spring 
up  on  the  burns  began  to  grow,  we  bought  our  first  sheep.  We  were  very 
proud  of  that  little  iiock,  and  it  made  us  feel  that  we  had  at  last  touched 
the  ifirst.  rung  of  the  ladtler;  but  before  a  month  had  passed  we  Avere 
disturbed  one  night  by  the  howling  of  dingoes,  and  Ave  kncAv  that  Avas  not  a 
very  healthy  sound  for  the  sheej).  Next  morning  Ave  found  dead  and  dying 
sheej?  everyAvhere,  for  the  dingo  Icills  for  the  loA^e  of  killing.  We  gathered 
together  what  Avas  left  and  brouglit  them  near  the  house,  and  Avhile  Ave, 
were  having  a  bit  of  lunch  and  sorroAvfully  discussing  what  Ave  should  do 
A\itli  them,  they  found  the  little  track  that  led  from  the  clearing  through 
the  forest,  and  along  which  we  had  brought  them  in.  and  Avere  gone.  Though 
they  only  had  a  little  start  of  us,  Ave  did  not  overtake  them  till  they  had  gone 
four  miles,  and  Ave  found  them  held  up  l)y  a  log  on  VV'hiteJaw'h  Tracic.  We 
sold  them  to  a  neighbour  out  there,  and  that  ended  oiu-  first  venture  in  sheep; 
and  though  keenly  disappointed,  it  did  not  prevent  us  from  l^uying  again 
the  next  season,  and  this  time  Avith  much  profit. 

We  speni  the  whole  of  the  folloAving  year  piclving  up  our  burn,  and  vei-y 
dirty  and  laborious  Avork  it  Avas;  but,  in  spite  of  the  grime  and  labour,  there 
Avas  ahvays  a  joy  in  it,  as  each  day's  labour  shoAved  a  neAv  area  cleared  of 
charred  logs  and  made  ready  for  gi-ass.  The  Spring  saAv  us  Avith  about  100 
acres  of  well-cleared  land,  which  AA'e  stocked  up  with  cattle  Ijought  at  Cran- 
boni'ne.  and  though  Ave  kept  our  gn.ss  fairly  short  by  borrowing  cattle  from 
other  settlers,  the  caterpillars  found  us  out  and  SAvept  oif  all  our  grass,  Avhich 
compelled  us  to  put  our  cattle  out  to  graze.  Nice  rains  came  on  soon  after 
and  gave  us  feed  again,  and  Ave  bought  some  very  nice  cAves  and  Aveaners  near 
AVerribee,  the  eAves  costing  4/-  and  the  Aveaners  3/-  each. 

In  these  earliest  days,  isolated  as  Ave  Avere  from  each  other,  it  Avas  a  A'ery 
easy  matter  to  lose  count  of  the  days,  and  very  lively  arguments  Avould  often 
take  place  as  to  what  day  it  Avas.  Most  of  us  in  those  days  kept  the  Sabbath 
by  a  change  of  occupation.  It  sometimes  happened  that  some  settler,  having 
lost  count  of  the  days,  Sunday  found  him  at  his  usual  work.  About  the  year 
1885  the  Church  of  England  missionary  at  PooAvong  commenced  a  Sunday 
morning  service  once  a  fortnight  at  the  house  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  D.  R.  Clerk, 
and  many  of  the  neighbours  used  to  gather  to  it.  The  memory  of  those  early 
day  services  is  a  very  pleasant  one,  and  tJiey  were  very  much  appreciated. 
The  music  for  the  hymns  and  chants  Avas  very  creditably  supplied  by  Mrs. 
Clerk  on  an  accordion  that  possessed  a  capacity  for  very  loud  and  fiorid  music, 
a  gift  it  was  A'ery  fond  of  making  the  most  of  if  it  had  the  chance,  btit  Mrs. 
Clerk  knew  how  to  keep  it  in  hand:  and  vrhile  the  ser\  ice  [jrogre^^ed  the  dinner 
simmered  cheerfully  over  the  fire  in  a  big  camp  oven,  filling  the  I'oom  Avith 
an  incense  that  appealed  to  the  material  rather  than  the  spiritual  side  of  the 
worshipper,  especially  after  a  ride  through  the  crisp  forest  -lir,  that  ahvaA'S 
seemed  to  leave  one  ready  for  a  meal. 

No  account  of  the  early  days  Avould  be  complete  Avithout  reference  being 
made  to  the  boundless  and  unfailing  h()si)itality  of  the  bush  people,  and  in 
those  days  of  slow  and  difficult  travel  it  was  very  greatly  a])preciated.  Old 
memories  suggest  many  names  that  call  for  special  mention,  but  there  are  tAvo 
that  Avere  very  outstanding  in  this  locality.  I  refer  to  Mi",  and  Mis.  Ol^en.  of 
PooAvong  P^ast,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Langham.  of  Ivy  Hill. 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 


(^Hi;"R(II.    SCHOOL.    AND    rT'^LIC    HAIJ-. 

Situntcil  (111  .Ml-.  Clcinsiiii's  Ininl  oii  Hi.'  l!(iiil;iria  -  Foster  Kd.iil:  iiisi.lc  (!i;i;iictiT.  ■JtWl .  Il  lirl.l 
r)0  iioo|)l(»,  with  loiiin  In  siiarc.  and  was  used  as  a  <-liiircli  for  some  years  the  lirst 
l)reacher   being   Mr.   J;is.    J.    Landry,      It   was   burnt    in    t  lie   (ireat    Fire.    1S'.'.>>. 


In  spite  of  the  danireroiis  iiiiture  ol'  the  woik  of  >(iiil»  ciiliiiii!;,  esi)efiiilly  in 
spar  or  .saplinif  scnib,  there  wvvv  wonderfully  lew  iic(i<lenis.  There  were  a 
few,  and  ocea.-ionally  a  man  ^nt  killed  or  serionsly  Immm.  .\n  aceidciil  hap- 
pened to  mv  hrolher  one  day  when  woi'kin<i  alone,  it  wa.s  cau.^ed  l»y  a  tall,  dry 
b'par — always  »erv  treacherous  niemhei's  of  tiie  ureal  hush  family — striking 
another  tree  in  its  fall  and  hreakin^  in  two  and  douhlin^  hack  fell  aeros>  him. 
He  lay  i^tunned  for  some  time,  and  after  eoinin*!;  to.  lie  manatred  to  reach  u 
iieif^hi)our's  house.  As  it  was  e\idi'nt  he  had  received  -eiious  injury.  I  de- 
cided next  mornin<r  to  talce  him  to  the  .Mfred  Hospital  in  .Melltourne.  a-  no 
medical  assistance  was  ohtii'iialtle  nearer  llinii  I)roinn  or  Warra^id.  I  he 
neijfhhoins  assisted  to  make  a  sledii'e  l<»n<x  enou<rh  for  the  patient  to  lie  at 
fidl  hn^h,  and  made  as  easy  and  comfortahle  as  possible  with  uiattra^-  ami 
iMi<>s.  and.  with  a  stoiM  horse  in  front.  I  set  oil  to  traverse  the  'M)  miles  of  mud 
that  lay  between  us  and  Drouin.  '!"lie  Inst  exeninu-  we  r<'a(hed  the  Iioum'  id' Mr. 
(Jlsen.  of  Poowonjr  K:>st.  where  \\c  were  put  ii|)  for  tlir  iii^ht.  The  patient 
by  this  time  was  very  weak  and  ha<l  to  be  carried  from  the  sle(l<re  to  the  house. 
Refreshed  with  the  rest,  Ave  contimied  on  in  the  iuoii)in<r,  and  reached  Drouin 
in  time  to  catch  the  eveninji  train  for  .Melbourne.  It  was  a  dr(>adfid  journey 
for  the  patient,  and  no  easy  (»nc  for  the  driver,  who  lia<l  to  walk  tla-  w  hoh^ 
way,  mostly  thiou«rh  deep  nuid.  for  the  .season  was  late  Winter.  'I'he  injuries 
proved  to  be  a  fractnred  collar-bone  and  nose  and  .serious  injury  to  the  spine, 
but  aftei-  a  few  weeks  in  the  hospital  he  was  able  to  ictmii  home  a<i:ain.  The 
hardship.s  of  the  early  settlers  were  .'.'•enerally  vei-y  cheerfully  borne  and  made 


■J  71) 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


lig-hi  1)1".  and  it  wab  this  spirit  tliat  greatly  helped  tlieni  to  win  through. 
Almost  all  were  under  the  handicap  of  insufficient  capital,  for  the  task  proved 
far  oreater  than  mo<t  had  anticipated,  and  the  returns  for  many  years  were 
\ery  poor  and  often  Aery  low  when  bad  markets  were  met  with.  One  of  our 
neiahl'ours.  with  seven  young  children,  turned  his  attention  to  dairying,  and 
as  the  custom  v.as  then,  tlie  butter  was  sidted  and  put  into  casks,  and  at  the 
end  of  the  season  taken  to  Melbourne  in  the  waggon  for  sale,  and  stores  for 
I  he  ensuing  Winter  brought  back.  This  entailed  a  journey  of  about  140  miles. 
On  this  occasion  the  market  was  glutted  with  butter,  and  salted  was  prac- 
tically unsaleable.  After  much  trouble  a  purchaser  was  found  at  2d.  a  pound 
for  the  season's  output.  But  by  sheer  pluck  and  industry  he  won  through  to 
prosperity. 

1898  will  always  be  remembered  by  Gippslanders  as  the  year  of  the  great 
fire.  Our  Spring  was  a  very  bountiful  one,  but  the  early  Summer  became 
very  dry,  and  with  the  abundance  of  long,  dry  grass  and  the  enormous  quan- 
tity of  di\v  timber  everywhere,  the  danger  of  fires  soon  became  apparent. 
Soon  after  New  Year,  serious  outbreaks  occurred  in  many  places,  but  cool 
changes  m  the  Aveather  enabled  them  to  be  got  under  to  all  appearance,  but 
there  Avere  smouldering  logs  everyAvhere,  ready  to  be  fanned  into  flame  by  the 
first  strong  Avind.  That  Summer  w^as  marked  by  periods  of  strong  east  winds 
that  dried  and  withered  everything  till  it  Avas  like  tinder.  January  31st  saw 
the  position  becoming  very  acute,  fierce  fires  eA'ervAvhere.  and  a  strong  wind 
blowin.u.  l)ut  no  one  antici]tated  the  great  disaster-  that  was  so  close  upon 
them.  February  1st,  the  day  we  all  remember  as  "Ked  Tuesday,"  daAvned, 
and  soon  gave  promise  of  being  a  ''scorcher."  It  Avas  Aery  hot,  with  a  furious 
east  AAind.  That  morning  at  my  farm  we  Avere  tiying  to  hold  in  check  a  fire 
some  distance  from  the  house.  "When  I  chanced  to  look  towards  home,  and 
s'aAv  great  Aolumes  of  smoke  rolling  across  just  beyond,  we  kncAv  that  our 
efforts  to  check  its  progress  were  useless,  except  to  try  to  saA'e  the  house  and 
buildings.  AYe  raced  home  and  found  the  fire  sAveeping  across  the  paddocks 
at  a  great  rate,  and  in  a  short  time  it  s'pread  all  around  us,  and  Ave  were  sur- 
rounded. We  fell  back  on  the  Indian's  device  of  fighting  fire  Avith  fire.  We 
managed  to  make  that  one  little  spot  tenable.  The  grass  fire  rushed  by 
and  was  soon  out,  but  every  tree  in  its  course  Avas  fired  and  was  soon  a  mass 
of  flame,  and  as  they  were  standing  A-ery  thickly  and  Avere  about  '2.50  feet  in 
height,  it  soon  became  a  real  inferno.  The  smoke  was  blinding,  the  air  was 
full  of  s^Darks,  great  tongues  of  fire  were  shooting  from  the  burning  trees. 
These  soon  began  to  fall  doAvn  with  a  thundering  ci'ash.  smashing  into  frag- 
ments', and  continued  to  burn  where  they  lay.  and  in  the  midst  of  this  in- 
ferno, on  about  three  acres  of  clear  ground.  Avitli  no  chance  of  escape  or 
hope  of  help  from  outside,  Ave  held  our  little  fort.  Often  the  buildings 
caught  fire,  but  Ave  were  ever  on  the  alert,  and  were  it  not  for  the  i^i'o'n 
roofs  on  which  the  sparks  fell  in  an  unavailing  shower,  nothing  could  haAe 
been  saved.  AYe  had  many  anxious  thoughts  for  the  stock,  and  Avondered 
hoAv  much  Avould  be  left  alive,  for  nothing  could  live  AA'here  the  titnber 
had  iieen  heaviest,  but  Ave  kncAv  there  Avere  places  fairly  free  of  timber  that 
would  afl'ord  sanctuaiy  to  such  stock  as  got  there.  As  the  day  wore 
on,  oar  anxiety  for  the  stock  gaA'e  place  to  graA-ely  anxious  fears  for  the 
lives  of  our  neighbours,  as  it  soon  became  plain  that  this  was  no  merely 
local  fire,  but  one  of  perhaps  enormous  area.  The  sky  began  to  take  on 
an  aspect  so  dreadful  and  threatening  that  it  made  one  almost  afraid.  Its 
coloui  Avas  a  strange  shade  of  purple,  tinged  Avith  blood.  EAcrything  Avas 
so  strange  and  weird  that  Avords  fail  to  describe  it.     It  Avas  almost  dark  at 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXrERIENCES.  -277 

four  o'clock.  The  air  was  full  of  a  dense  smoke,  and  the  sparks  were  as 
thick  as  the  flakes  of  a  heavy  snoAvstorm.  Fhimes  burned  bhie  instead 
of  red,  and  the  gi-eat  tongues  of  flame  had  no  iUuniinating;  power.  It 
was  a  new  experience  of  fires,  even  to  Gippshinders.  who  had  had  so  much 
to  do  Avith  fire,  and  the  thought  was  raised  many  times  that  dreadful  after- 
noon and  evening.  "I  wonder  what  the  news  will  be  in  the  morning."'  As 
night  fell  the  scene  was  indescribably  Aveird.  the  trees  that  still  stood  Avere 
picked  out  in  fire  from  the  ground  to  the  topmost  branches,  the  ground  Avas 
covered  Avith  fire,  and  all  the  Avhile  there  Avas  a  continual  crash  of  falling 
trees  that  told  of  the  destruction  that  was'  going  on.  It  Avas  a  magnificent 
spectacle,  but  for  the  time  it  seemed  as  if  the  result  of  all  our  hard  Avork 
of  many  years  Avas  going  up  in  smoke,  and  one  Avas  not  in  the  mood  to  fully 
appreciate  the  unspeakable  grandeur  of  the  scene.  Xext  morning.  Avhat  a 
change  met  our  eyes !  Instead  of  the  forest  of  dry  trees,  thei-e  Avere  gi-eat, 
clear  spaces.  The  forest  had  largely  di.sa]^peared,  and  thiough  the  murky  at- 
mosphere one  could  see  the  homesteads  of  neighbours  half  a  mile  aAvay  that 
Ave  had  never  been  able  to  see  before,  and  then  the  smoking  ruins  of  what 
one  had  been  pleas'ed  to  call  a  farm  noAv  SAvept  of  grass  and  fencing.  It 
took  no  prophet  to  discover  the  beginnings  of  a  more  j^rosperous  future,  as 
nnu'ii  ()t  ihc  tiiiibrr  which  luul  before  seenud  to  be  [hv  work  of  generati(in>  tn 
clear  had  \aiii.-lud  in  the  uiL'ht.  1  hurried  around  to  st'c  how  the  stock  had 
fared,  and  found,  to  my  surprise,  that  they  had  mostly  escaped  to  the  places 
that  Avere  more  lightly  timbered.  A  few  sheep  lay  about,  dead,  wliile  others 
showed  the  marks  of  fire.  I  came  to  one  spot  where  a  number  of  rams 
used  to  cam})  in  the  cool  of  a  hoUoAv  log.  This  had  disappeared,  and  a  roAV 
of  charred  bones  marked  the  spot,  Avhile  four  that  had  managed  to  get  out 
of  the  log  lay  dead  alongside.  In  another  paddock  40  fat  bullocks  had  es- 
caped through  a  man  Avho  Avas  hurrying  to  his  camp  i)ulling  down  a  fence 
and  alloAving  them  to  escape  out  of  a  bad  corner,  where  every  one  must  have 
perished  had  the  tire  r-aughl  tlicm  there.  Everywhere,  fences  and  ;ir;i-~  w.iv 
SAvept  as  Avell  as'  timber  and  M-rnl).  and  grimy  desolation  reigned  over  all. 

Soon  Ave  began  to  get  news  fi-oni  the  outride,  the  abnost  innarynig  lale 
of  homesteads  bui-nt  and  destruction  of  stock.  In  the  Stiv.eh'cki  (bstriet  thei-i' 
was  scarcely  a  house  left,  but  foi'tunately  no  li\(>s  were  h)st.  though  many 
had  narroAV  escapes.  That  afternoon  I  rode  ronu'l  to  x-c  how  the  neigli- 
i>oin-s  had  fared.  At  the  fii-st  place  of  call  thev  had  saved  the  house  after 
a  heroic  fight,  bul  all  other  l)uildiugs  had  been  burnt.  Here  were  thi'ee 
families  whose  houses  had  been  burned.  'I'here  were  live  women  among  these 
refugees,  and  not  one  of  them  had  a  hat.  The  clothes  they  w(tre  wa^^  all 
they  liad  saved.  One  had  driven  ovei-  that  mor-ning  to  visit  her  old  home. 
The  l)Uggy  was  bui'iied  as  it  stood  in  the  yard,  and  she  said,  "'I'he  only 
thing  that  Avas  saved  fi-om  fathers  house  was  a  teaspoon  that  my  baby  was 
playing  with."  AVe  Avere  a  son-ow  fnl  looking  comi)any :  all  were  nearly  blind 
Avith  the  .smoke,  some  fpiite  so.  and  those  Avho  had  lost  their  houses  and 
cattle  were  greatly  discouraged.  One  of  the.sc  had  lost  J^'.'  out  of  40  coavs, 
nearly  all  their  sheep  and  pigs.  Anothei-  neighbour  r»0  out  of  HO  cows  and 
much  otlier  stock,  and  some  of  the  .sons  Avho  stayed  to  eombut  the  liir  had  to 
get  down  the  well  to  save  their  lives.  As  ncAvs  from  other  districts  came  to 
hand  we  learnecl  li<iw  wi<lespi'ead  had  been  the  laiin.  Almost  the  whole  of 
Gippsiand  had  been  swept,  as  well  as  other  j)rovinces.  and  so  dense  \\t\A 
the  smoke  around  the  coast  that  shipping  Avas  delayed  for  days.  ITonie- 
steads  by  the  hundred  had  been  laid  in  laiins.  many  of  them  new  and  well 
appointed,   and.   togetlier   with    the   heavy   losses   in   stock,    fencing,  etc..   ami 


•278 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


the  seasoii'.s  i)rofit.  made  a  very  disastrous'  year  for  Gippsland.  At  one 
place  a  family  escaped  from  their  biuniuo-  homestead  and  made  for  shelter 
to  a  neifrhbour's  place.  After  being  there  for  a  short  time,  this  homestead 
Avas  also  surrounded  by  the  ever-spreading;  fire  and  l^urnt.  and  the  two 
families  rode  on  together  to  another  neighbour's  place,  where  they  found 
shelter.  Supper  Avas  prepared,  and  just  as  they  were  about  to  sit  down  the 
alarm  was  given:  the  house  was  already  on  fire  in  the  roof,  set  alight 
by  sparks'  bloAvn  from  a  distance,  and.  like  the  others,  this  house  too  Avas 
soon'in  ashe.-.  and  the  three  families  now  moved  on  together  to  a  small  cottage 
Avhere  liAcd  an  old  couple.  Avho  gave  them  Avhat  shelter  they  could. 

The  peoj)le  of  Victoria  gave  generously  to  a  fund  for  the  relief  of  those 
Avho  had  lost  everything,  but  most  of  the  settlers  preferred  to  face  the  task 
Avithout  assistance  in  this  Avay.  and.  aided  by  the  splendid  season  that  fol- 
lowed, together  Avith  the  cleaner  and  larger  areas  of  pasture  noAv  available, 
the  sorrows  of  '98  Avere  soon  forgotten. 

In  these  later  days  of  Avell  cleared  and  well  stocked  farms  and  comfortable 
homes  dotting  the  landscape,  and  of  roads  that  are  fast  being  macadamised, 
one  cannot  but  feel  a  pride  in  the  past,  and  Ave  smile  at  the  memories  of 
the  hard  road  that  has  led  us  up  to  the  present.  There  is  a  feeling  of 
thankfulness  that  it  has  not  to  be  gone  over  again:  but  as  one  looks  out  on 
the  present  and  sees  Avhat  has  been  wrought  in  one  generation,  there  is  a 
sense  of  satisfaction,  and  Ave  say,  '"It  was  worth  v/hile,"  for  around  us  we 
see  one  of  the  most  prosperous  districts  in  the  State. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  G.  MATHESON. 

In  ls83  1  AMIS  li\ini>  on  my  falher"--  f:\vu\  at 
Clarendon,  on  ihn  Ballaral  to  Cieelon<r  road,  and 
beino"  on  the  look-out  for  a  place  ol'  my  own.  I 
decided  to  go  and  see  what  (xipjxsland  was  like.  I 
had  read  articles  in  the  papers  praisinir  the  land 
and  the  climate,  statin**;  that  it  was  the  i^arden  of 
Victoria,  a  land  f1o^\  ing  with  milk  and  honey,  etc. ; 
and  m  reading  over  advertisements  I  saw  there 
were  several  farms  along  the  Main  (iippsland  line 
for  sale,  and  went  out  to  see  some  of  tliem.  They 
Avere  not  suitable  for  me.  and  T  was  told  that  there 
was  no  land  anvwhere  near  the  line  o])en  for  selec- 
tion, and  was  returning  disappointed  when  I  met 
the  late  Mr.  Charles  Blew,  of  Whitelaw.  in  the 
train  between  ^lelbourne  and  Ballarat.  He  in- 
formed me  that  there  was  land  oi)en  for  selection 
out  his  way.  and  if  T  cared  to  go  and  look  at  it 
conld  stay  at  his  ])lace  and  go  out  and  see  it  from 
there.  I  thanked  him  and  he  ga\e  me  his  address. 
When  I  reached  home  I  found  Messrs.  AVilliam  and  Henry  I\ainl)ow 
were  about  to  take  a  trip  to  Ciip]:)sland  to  see  the  connti-y.  I  suggested  they 
should  see  the  land  that  Mr.  Blew  had  desci'ibed  to  me.  When  they  returned 
they  told  me  that  tliev  wore  so  satisfied  with  what  thev  had  seen  thai  they  had 
selected  blocks  of  8-20  acres  each.  Then  Messi-s.  Joseph  and  James  Txainbow 
and  I  went  out  and  selected  a  block'  each  for  ourselves  and  one  tor  Miss 
Rainbow.  Later  on  Mr.  W.  .1.  A\'illianis  came  out  and  selected  hi>  i»lock. 
jSIiss  KainbowV  block.  Mi-.  W.  Rainbow's  and  my  own  were  in  the  parish  of 
Jumbunna  Ka>t.  the  othei-s  in  the  ])ai'isli  of  Kongwak,  but  all  seven  lilocks 
were  adjoining. 

As  -oon  as  the  land  was  i-ecommendcd  (o  us  liy  (he  T^and  Boai-d.  Messrs. 
William  and  James  Ivaini)ow  and  mysell"  came  out  to  cut  (tin-  first  scrui).  Our 
tents,  tools  and  pi-o\  ision^  were  taken  in  a  diay  fi-om  Droiiin  as  far  as  .Mr. 
lilewV  M'lection:  from  tlieie  we  carried  tliem  on  (tur  backs  along  a  pack 
tiack  to  Mr.  A.  Mini's  selection,  about  seven  miles,  and  before  we  could  pi'o- 
cee(i  further  had  to  cut  a  ])ack  li'ack  about  a  mile  and  a  hall'  to  where  we 
projxtsed  pitcliinu  oui-  camp  on  the  north-east  corner  of  tliis  i»loek.  No.  52, 
])ai-isli  of  Jiiiiitiiinna  Ka^t . 

A  jtack  ti-ack  i^  a  way  cut  through  the  forest,  just  wide  en<»ugh  for  a 
horse  to  pass  along  with  a  pack  on  his  back.  The  .scrub  and  small  ti-ees  were 
cut  close  to  the  gi-ound.  but  large  standing  trees  were  avoided  by  going  round 
them.  SometiiiH's  lar^c  loj^s  could  not  Iw  avoidj'd  in  this  way:  then  a  gap 
would  be  cut  out  of  them  just  wide  enough  for  the  horse  to  pass  thi-ough. 
The  earth  being  soft  and  always  damp,  these  tracks  would  soon  be  puddled 
up  into  mud.  and  as  the  mud  l)ecame  deejier  the  original  surface  wouhl  be 
Iowci'.mI  and  the  stumps  of  the  trees  that  had  been  cut  would  project  above  thf 


280 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


A     HIT     OF      I'm:      KdKKST, 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  281 

mud  for  six  or  eight  inches,  making  a  very  clifficnlt  pathway  for  either  man 
or  horse  to  negotiate.    There  Avas  no  possibility  of  avoiding  the  mud.  as  the 
scrub  was  far  too  dense  to  alloAv  one  to  walk  off  the  track.     Our  pack  track 
finished,  and  a  space  of  about  ten  or  twelve  yards  square  cleared  on  which 
to  pitch  our  tents',  Ave  proceeded  to  make  oiu'selves  as  comfortable  as  possible 
under  the  circumstances.     Then  we  had  time  to  look  about  and  contemjilate 
the  work  that  lay  before  us.  "scrub  cutting.*'  as  it  was  called:  timber  falling 
wouhl  be  a  more  correct  description  of  the  work.     I  ha\e  heard  it  said  that 
this  forest  is  one  of  the  densest  and  heaviest  in  the  world,  and,  standing  here 
in  it.  one  can  easily  believe  it  true.     Just  where  we  were  camped  there  w-ere 
Aery  fcAv  large  trees:  saplings  pi-edominated,  in  many  cases  over  200  to  the 
acre,  their  long,  bare  limbless  trunks  up  to  150  feet  high,  and  the  largest 
not  more  than  three  feet  in  diameter  at  the  base:  and  in  between  the  sap- 
lings every  foot  of  s'pace  was  taken  up  with  a  large  variety  of  smaller  trees, 
shrubs,  ferns,  etc..  all  combining!,  to  make  such  a  dense  and  tangled  growth 
that  a  man  could  not  walk  about  in  it.     We  never  ventured  more  than  a 
few  ciiains  aw^ay  from  our  camp  Avithout  a  compass  in  our  pocket  for  fear  of 
getting  lost,  for  Avithout  a  compass  it  Avould  be  impossible  to  Avalk  in  any- 
thing like  a  straight  course.     Sometimes  Ave  would  be  on  our  hands  and 
knees  creeping  under  some  obstacle,   at  other  times  scrambling  or  tearing 
our  Avay  through  sAvordgrass.  Aviregrass  and  other  creepers:  then,  again,  wo 
w^ould  be  Avalldng  along  logs  many  feet  up  from  the  ground.   The  imuiensity 
of  this  forest,  the  gi^eat   variety' of  trees,  shrubs,  creepers,  ferns,  etc.,   the 
absence  of  wind,  and  the  subdued  light  on  account  of  the  density  of  the 
foliage  overhead,  all  combined  to  strike  one  Avith  aAve  and  amazement   at 
the  grandeur  of  it  all.     No  doubt  the  quality  of  the  soil  and  the  climate 
accormts  for  this  vast  gi-OAvth  of  vegetation.    The  soil  is  of  a  rich,  grey  loamy 
nature,  with  clay  subsoil,  fi'oni  two  to  four  feet  deep,  with  loo-se,  rotten  .sandstone 
underneath,  and  (.ver  the  surface  of  the  -oil  lies  from  four  to  six  inches  of  de- 
caved  vegetable  mould,  the  result  of  fallen  bark,  leaves,  etc.     The  rainfall  is 
aJ»'(.ut  fortv  inches  in  the  vear.  and  as  the  sun  and  wiiul  cannot  ]>en('lrate  t<»  (lui 
earth,  the  surface  was  alw^ays  Avarm  and  moist,  which  all  goes  to  account  for 
the  great  height  of  the  trees  and  the  density  of  the  forest,  each  tree  vuuug 
with  the  other  to  get  a  glimpse  of  the  sun  and  light.    The  country  is  wry 
hillv.  and  although  the  hills  are  not  very  high,  they  are  in  some  places  very 
steep.    There  Avas  no  possibility  of  getting  an  extensive  view  of  the  landscape 
until   after   the   scrub   Avas  cut.     Tliei-e   Avere  Iavo   varieties   of   sa])lMigs.   the 
l)lue  gum  and  the  black  butt,  and  they  grew  separate  fi-om  one  another.     The 
blue  gums  Avere  the  most  numeiou^  and  grcAV  on  the  hills  and  hurh  ground, 
while    the    blackbutts'  grew    in   the  gullies  and   on    the   (1m(s.        The   tnuber 
of  these  sai)lings  would  have  been  of  value  and  very  useful  for  many  puri)oses 
if  it  had  been  possible  to  preserve  them.    We  tried  to  .s'ave  about  sixty  acres 
of  them  on  this  selection,  but  subsecpient  fires  Avere  so  fierce  that  they  Avere 
.scorched  u|)  and  died.     'IMiere  was  a  large  area  of  sapling  country  m  this 
localitv:  it  is  sup|)ose(l  that  a  fire  swept  (hrf)ngh  the  forests  many  years  ago 
and  destroyed  all  the  timber,  and  that  these  saplings  and  all  this  .scrub  grew 
up  since    "The  saplings  were  all   about  the  same  height,  and   have  grown 
up  so   closely   that   they   have   not   been    able   to    throw    out   any   branches, 
their  barrelsbeing  ju.st  bare  spars  with  a  few  short  limbs  or  branches  on  lop. 
BetAveen  the  saplings  grew  blackwood   and  wattle  trees,  but  they  appeared 
to  be  striH'-'ding  for  existence:  long  barrels  50  or  GO  feet   high  and  a   few 
branches  on'top :  verv  different  to  the  blackwood  and  wattle  Ave  wer<'  acquainted 
with  in  other  parts  of  the  State.  Among  the  scrub  trees  the  hazel  is  the  n.ost 
numerous      Tt  grew  to  a  heioht  of  about  ^^0  feet,  wa,'^  naturally  straight,  the 


282  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

wood  white  and  very  hard  when  dry,  the  bark  tliin  and  beautifully  mottled 
in  some  cases.  It  had  soft  g;i'een  leaves,  very  much  like  the  leaves  of  the 
English  hazel,  but  it  did  not  bear  nuts,  yet  it  was  one  of  the  loveliest  trees  in 
the  forest. 

The  musk  tree  is  very  plentiful  and  ranks  next  to  the  hazel  in  that 
respect,  and  like  it,  is  found  everywhere  on  the  hills  as  well  as  in  the  gullies; 
it  grew  to  a  height  of  twenty  feet  with  crooked  stems  and  very  brittle,  the 
leaves  broad,  green  above  and  silvery-white  underneath,  and,  when  bruised, 
emitted  a   strong,  pleasant,  musk-like  odour. 

The  blanket-leaf  tree  was  brittle,  very  sappy,  and  extremely  heavy,  and, 
consequently,  very  bad  to  burn;  its  leaves  grew  in  bunches,  were  narrow  and 
about  eight  inches  long,  gi'een  above  and  white  and  woolly  underneath. 

The  pittosporum,  called  native  orange  from  its  leaves  having  a  resem- 
blance to  the  cultured  variety,  was  very  ornamental  where  it  had  room  to 
grow.  It  had  a  glossy,  green  leaf  and  sweet-scented  flowers ;  its  seed  pods 
were  round  and  about  the  size  of  marbles,  and  in  colour  and  shape  resembled 
miniature  oranges. 

The  Christmas  tree  was  a  close  growing  tree  about  ten  feet  high ;  it  came 
out  in  flower  in  December  and  was  simply  covered  with  a  mass  of  small 
white  bells  and  looked  very  pretty.  The  supplejack  is  a  creeper;  very  often  it 
coiQd  be  seen  high  up  among  the  branches  of  the  trees,  often  Ijinding  several 
treetops  together,  its  long,  rope-like  stems  reaching  the  ground  Avithout  any 
support  from  the  trunks  of  the  trees.  It  was  a  conundrum  how  it  got  up  so 
high,  in  many  cases  eighty  feet,  for  it  cannot  climb.  It  is  supposed  that  Avhen 
the  trees  were  seedlings  the  supplejack  clung  to  the  small  branches  and  was 
carried  up  with  the  treels  as  they  grew.  Their  ropelike  slems  were  very 
strong,  and  would  require  the  strength  of  a  liorse  to  break  one  the  size  of 
your  finger.  The  flowers  Avere  star  shaped  and  grcAv  in  such  profusion  that 
from  the  ground  they  appeared  to  be  one  AAhite  mass,  but  on  examination 
were  found  to  be  small  star-shaped  floAvers;  then  the  seed  pods  opened,  and 
from  them  came  out  a  mass  of  thread-like,  soft,  white,  fluffy  substance  which 
was,  if  anything,  more  profuse  than  the  floAvers,  and  looked  almost  as  pretty. 
There  was  another  A'ariety  Avhich  had  a  pink  and  white  bell-shaped  flower 
with  a  chocolate  coloured  centre,  which  was  eAen  more  beautiful  than  the 
other,  but  did  not  haA'e  the  fluffy  seed  pods. 

Among  the  ferns  the  tree  fern  Avas  the  admiration  of  everyone.  They 
grew  to  perfection  in  the  scrub,  principally  in  the  gullies,  where  they  Avere  to 
be  seen  in  all  sizes  up  to  thirty  feet  high,  like  so  many  umbrellas  held  one  over 
the  other.  The  young,  tender,  curly  topped  fronds  were  of  a  most  delicate 
green,  rising  vertically  from  the  centre,  surrounded  by  older  and  more  devel- 
oped fronds  six  or  eight  feet  long,  spreading  out  horizontally  in  graceful 
cur  ACS,  and  of  a  deeper  tint  of  green,  whilst  the  dry  fronds  of  previous  years' 
growth,  in  all  .shades  from  brown  to  light  grey,  himg  stiff  and  lifeless  close  to 
the  trunk.  There  were,  several  varieties  of  small  ferns  to  be  found  in  the 
scrub,  also  a  great  variety  of  moss  in  all  shades  of  green.  Avhich  looked  very 
pretty. 

The  sword  and  Avire  grasses  were  among  the  worst  obstacles  the  scrub 
cutter  had  to  contend  Avith.  The  swordgrass  grew  in  bunches  Avith  l)lades 
about  an  Inch  Avide  and  up  to  eight  feet  long.  A^ery  rank,  with  edges  like  the 
teeth  of  a  fine  saw,  and  many  a  nastA'^  cut  Ave  got  from  them.    The  Avirearass 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  2S3 

grew  in  tangled  masses,  its  long,  jointetl  stems  in  many  cases  over  ten  feet 
long,  had  a  file-like  surface.  Being  so  long  and  fine,  it  could  not  stand  up 
1)V  itself,  but  matted  and  tangled  itself  over  everything  within  its  reach. 

Tiiis  Gippsland  scrub  or  forest  pi'esented  a  formidable  undertaking  to 
the  early  jDioneers  who  took  in  hand  the  work  of  car\  ing  their  homes  out  of  it. 
All  the  work  had  to  be  done  with  tiie  axe.  and  as  the  timber  to  be  cut  was 
nearly  all  green,  a  very  fine,  keen  edge  could  be  used:  so  the  first  thing  to  do 
was  to  prepare  our  axes  to  dtstroy  as  much  of  this  beautiful  forest  as  we 
could  in  the  next  two  months.  Soon  after  we  started  work  Mr.  Williams  came 
out  and  pitched  his  tent  in  our  camp,  intending  to  cut  scrub  on  his  own  block, 
w,alking  there  and  l)ack  morning  and  evening,  but  after  the  first  day  he 
decided  that  it  was  not  safe  for  a  man  to  work  l)y  himself  in  such  a  forest, 
so  he  arianged  to  work  with  us  and  we  could  repay  him  by  so  much  work 
another  time.  We  found  the  best  place  to  start  work  was  in  a  gidly,  and  to 
fall  a  strip  about  two  chains  wide  along  .uid  jjarallel  with  the  gully.  Of 
course,  the  first  trees'  could  not  fall  to  ithe  ground,  but  would  lean  against 
those  standing  in  front  of  them,  bending  them  o^•er  a  little.  Then  the  next 
cut  would  fall  against  these,  and  s'o  on  until  the  weight  was  too  much  for 
those  standing  in  fi-ont.  and  they  would  break,  allowinor  most  of  the  cut  trees 
to  come  to  the  ground.  Having  secured  an  opening,  this  strip  would  be  ciit 
all  the  way  up  the  gully,  falling  everything  the  same  way  as  the  gully.  This 
task  requires  a  considerable  amount  of  method,  and  was  attended  with  many 
dangers.  It  was  all  right  as  long  as  the  trees  fell  the  way  we  wanted  them, 
that  is,  away  from  us.  but  often  one  would  fall  back  into  the  standing  .scrub, 
and,  leaning  against  other  .standing  trees,  would  bend  them  in  the  opposite 
direction  to  which  we  wanted  them  to  fall.  Then  we  w^oidd  require  to  be  very 
careful  in  cutting  a  way  past  them  until  we  had  a  clear  space  for  them  to 
fall  into;  then  we  would  go  back  and  let  them  down.  This  work  was.  .some- 
times, too  dangerous,  and  these  leaning  trc-s  were  often  left  nidess  another 
tree  could  l)e  felled  across  them  to  break  them  down.  Having  got  onr  strip 
cut  u]>  the  gully,  we  would  then  go  back  to  the  starting  point  and  ojH'n  out 
another  strip  at  right  angles  to  the  gully  and  fall  the  scrub  the  same  way  as 
the  hill  sloped  and  into  the  gully.  Being  novices  at  the  \\ork  we  had  nmch 
to  learn,  but  soon  found  th.it  tlie  best,  (piickest  and  safest  way  was  to  fall 
the  scrub  in  batches:  that  is,  nick  everything  on  both  sides,  leaving  suHicient 
uncut  wood  to  Ueej)  the  trees  slanding.  the  nick  on  the  bacl<  being  a  little 
higher  than  the  one  in  fi'ont.  This  nicking  would  be  continued  to  the  (op 
of'"tlu-  liill.  when  a  tiec  would  be  selected  l»y  each  man.  and  these  cut  so 
as  to  fall  into  others,  which  in  Hun  fell  into  tho^c  in  from  of  them,  and 
tho  whole  four  or  five  chains  would  come  to  the  ground  with  a  tremendous 
cra.sh.  AVe  would  then  go  down  into  the  gully  and  rei)eat  the  process',  fol- 
lowing out  that  method  all  through  until  (he  work  was  finished.  Tn  falling 
the  timber  in  batches'  this  way,  it  would  all  fall  in  th(-  same  direction  and 
pack  closer  to  the  irroiind  and,  conse(iuen(Iy.  be  in  (he  l)es(  position  for 
burning;  and  as  we  became  more  expert  with  the  a.\e,  this  work,  although 
dangerous  became  verv  exciting,  A^  llic  live-  -ivw  s..  closely  togeth(>r  an«i 
were  often  bound  together  at  (heir  toi)s  with  supplejack,  it  was  very  seldom 
that  one  failed  to  come  down.  It  often  took  longer  to  clear  a  space  to  swnig 
the  axe  than  it  did  to  chop  the  tree;  there  was  swordgra.ss,  wiregrass,  small 
hushes  and  twi^>  (o  be  clean  ,1  away  before  wv  coiild  get  at  the  sapling  to  fell  it. 
Fortunately,  none  of  f.ur  partv  met  with  any  accident  during  om-  first  attempt 
at  scrub  cutting.  The  swordgrass  was.  T  think,  our  wors(  enemy;  our  hands 
bore   ample  evidence   of  its  cu(ting  (pialities.       Nearly  every   year   during 


284  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

scrub  cuttingr  there  would  be  accidentb',  some  of  them  ^ery  serious;  they  were 
ahvays  dreaded  on  account  of  the  very  great  difficulty  ,of  conveying  a 
Avouiided  man  out  of  the  scrub  to  a  place  where  he  could  get  proper  attention. 

We  all  had  most  ravcTious  appetites:  whether  it  was  caused  by  the  nature 
of  the  work,  the  change  of  climate,  or  what,  we  had  no  means  of  finding  out, 
and  all  would  have  been  well  if  we  had  had  plenty  of  good,  wholesome,  well 
cooked  food ;  but  this  was  our  weak  point.  We  only  had  bread,  meat  and  rice 
to  cook,  and  we  managed  to  cook  the  rice  fairly  well,  as  it  only  required 
boiling  in  Avater  until  soft :  but  w^e  could  only  get  meat  at  odd  times,  and  it 
was  always  going  bad:  there  were  swarms  of  red  blowflies,  and  they  would 
sometimes  have  the  meat  before  it  reached  the  camp,  and  we  had  nothing  in 
the  camp  that  would  protect  the  meat  from  them.  Our  worst  trouble  was 
with  the  bread.  Before  we  left  home  we  were  given  full  particulars,  and  all 
the  iuiiredient  to  make  both  bread  and  yeast  were  packed  in  our  provision 
box.  We  had  often  seen  our  women- folk  making  bread,  and  the  operations 
seemed  so  simple  that  we  thought  any  man  could  do  it.  We  intended  to  get 
our  flour  and  a  camp  oven  at  the  store  at  Poowong  as  we  came  through,  but 
just  at  that  time  they  were  out  of  camp  ovens,  but  had  some  on  the  way  and 
would  send  one  out  to  us  by  pack  horse  as  soon  as'  they  arrived.  Poowong  was 
oiu-  nearest  store,  about  sixteen  miles  from  f)ur  caiv-.p.  \  nd  goods  for  all 
the  camps  were  sent  out  by  pack  horse,  but  it  was  three  weeks  before  our  oven 
reached  the  camp,  and  then  one  of  our  party  had  to  go  half  way  up  the) 
track  for  it.  One  of  our  party  said  he  knew  how  to  make  a  damper  in  the 
ashes,  so  a  large  fire  was  made  to  get  the  ashes.  A  damper  i-  flour  and  water 
mixed  into  a  stiif  dough,  placed  in  hot  ashes  and  left  there  until  cooked.  We 
had  some  difficulty  in  getting  hot  ashes,  they  seemed  to  cool  so  quickly; 
after  the  damper  was  placed  in  them  a  fire  had  to  be  kept  burning  over  the 
ashes  to  keep  them  hot.  As  soon  as  the  damper  had  a  nice  brown  crust  it 
was  taken  from  the  ashes,  but  when  turned  over  was  found  to  be  more  damp 
and  soft  than  when  it  was  placed  in  the  ashes:  that,  of  course,  should  not  be. 
Something  was  radically  wrong,  and,  Avhile  we  were  trying  to  think 
what  it  might  be.  the  fire  nearly  went  out.  and  Avhile  we  were  relighting  it  Ave 
saw  .-team  rising  from  the  ground:  that  explained  all:  the  fire  was  drawing 
moisture  up  from  the  ground  and  through  the  damper.  We  came  to  the  con- 
clusion that  it  was  impossible  to  cook  a  damper  under  those  conditions,  but 
so  that  this  one  should  not  be  wa.sted,  it  w^s  put  in  the  fire  again,  this  time 
upside  down,  and  the  other  side  browned,  and  wdien  taken  out  Avas  found  to 
be  all  crust,  and  so  hard  that  AA^e  had  to  use  an  axe  to  cut  it.  We  next  tried 
to  co(,k  Johnnie  cakes  in  the  frying  pan,  Avhich  Avas  only  about  eight  inches 
in  diameter.  Perhaps  the  reader  may  not  knoAv  Avhat  a  Johnnie  cake  is:  it 
is  made  by  mixing  flour,  water  and  baking  poAvder  together,  flattening  it 
out  to  about  one  inch  thick,  and  if  properly  made  will  be  two  inches  thick 
Avhen  cooked.  When  our  oA^en  came  aa'c  expected  to  haA'e  some  yeast  bread,  but 
were  disappointed.  The  yeast.  Avould  not  work  and  the  bread  Avas  a  damper 
little  better  than  the  one  cooked  in  the  ashes :  but  Avith  the  oven  we  could  haA^e 
larger  Johnnie  cakes,  and  make  them  quicker,  because  with  a  lid  on  the  oven 
Ave  could  cook  both  sides  at  once.  A  lot  of  time  was  taken  up  with  the 
cooldng,  but  we  managed  to  cut  forty  acres  of  scrub,  tAventy  on  Wm.  RainboAV'S 
block,  and  twenty  on  this  block,  before  Christmas,  when  Ave  decided  to  go 
home  for  the  harvest,  intending  to  return  after  the  New  Year  to  fire  the  cut 
scrub,  but  were  unable  to  get  back  before  March,  Avhen  Ave  got  our  first  burn. 
We  selected  a  day  when  a  strong  north  wind  was  bloAving,  although  very  little 
Avind  reached  the  edge  of  the  cut  scrub  on  account  of  the  green  standing 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  -iso 

limber,  ^\^i  fired  it  all  along  the  north  side;  it  burned  sloAvly  until  it  got 
well  alight,  and  three  or  four  chains  nway  from  the  edge.  Then  it  commenced 
to  roar  and  burn  most  fierce!}'',  throwing  up  a  dense  volume  of  thick,  black 
smoke  into  the  sky.  and  very  soon  the  whole  was  ablaze,  the  tlanies 
reaching  over  a  hinidred  feet  liigh.  After  the  fire  passed  over,  the  ground 
was  covered  with  the  long,  black  trunks  of  the  spars  lying  so  closel}'  that  you 
could  walk  all  over  the  clearing  on  them  by  stepping  from  one  to  the  other, 
but  the  smaller  trees  and  shrubs  liad  all  disappeared.  Besides  the  spars  there 
were  a  number  of  logs,  trunks  of  large  trees  which  had  been  lying  on  the 
ground  before  the  scrub  was  ctit.    These  were  only  blackened  l)y  the  fire. 

Before  commencing  the  work  of  clearing  the  land  of  all  these  spars,  we 
had  to  pitch  another  camp.  After  pitching  our  tents  we  proceeded  to  erect  a 
chock  and  log  hut  with  a  shingle  roof,  which  we  found  very  much  more  com- 
fortable than  our  first  camp,  besides  giving  us  better  facilities  for  cooking. 

The  work  of  clearing  the  land  of  what  was  left  after  the  burn  was  called 
"picking  u})."*  but  before  anything  could  be  picked  up,  these  spar  trindvs  had 
all  to  be  cut  into  short  lengths,  and  even  then  most  of  them  were  too  lieavy 
to  be  picked  up.  These  were  rolled  together  on  skids  with  levers,  and  it  was  no 
easy  matter  to  get  them  together  on  account  of  the  stumps  that  were  standing 
all  over  the  ground,  and  the  uneven  nature  of  the  ground  made  the  work  of 
handling  these  logs  very  awkward.  The  largest  logs  Avere  placed  in  the  bottom 
of  the  heaps  and  smaller  and  lighter  ones  on  top,  and  when  a  number  of  heaps 
were  made,  a  fire  was  put  in  them.  We  found  it  best  to  light  the  heaps  on 
the  top  and  let  the  fire  burn  down.  We  generalh*  lit  the  ht^aps  in  the  after- 
noon, then  after  tea  in  the  evening  we  w^ould  go  round  them  and  poke  them 
together  with  levers;  if  the  heaps  were  well  madt  and  attended  to  in  this 
way,  very  little  would  be  left  by  morning,  only  odd  pieces  which  would 
again  be  put  together,  or  the  remains  of  two  or  three  fires  made  into  one; 
and  so  on  until  all  was  consumed.  Hollows  in  the  ground  and  gullies  were 
taken  advantage  of  in  making  heaps,  which  wouM  some<im(\s  be  two  or  three 
chains  long  and  six  or  eight  feet  high.  The  logs  in  heaps  so  made  would, 
as  they  biu'iied.  roll  to  the  centre,  and  would  not  require  so  much  atteiition 
after.  Picking  up  was  hard,  rough  work,  and  only  strong  men  could 
stand  il;  the  charcoal  on  the  logs  wlien  wet  would  wear  the  skin  oil'  the 
hands  until  they  bled;  the  smoke  and  heat  of  the  fires  was  very  enc/rvating 
and  severe  on  the  even.  This  work  Avent  on  all  through  the  Winter,  llien 
next  year  it  was  tht/  same  Avork  over  again;  scrub  cutting  in  the  Spring  antl 
Summer,  and  picking  up  and  burning  oif  in  Winter.  The  grass  seed  was 
sown  in  the  early  Winter  or  Autumn,  after  the  soil  had  got  a  good  soaUing 
with  rain,  and  very  often  before  all  the  picking  up  was  finished.  After 
our  first  grass  seed  was  sown  avc,  built  another  log  Imt,  but  this  time  on 
this  block.  I'bc  previous  one  \\;i<  on  Wni.  b'ainliDvv's  block.  TJicn  .Mrs. 
Matheson  canu    out.  and   we  lived   in   this  log  hnl    for  si.\  yt':ir>. 

Our  fir.st  lot  of  cattle  were  driven  by  road  from  ("laiendon.  and  as  some 
of  them  were  not  very  sti'ong  Avhdn  they  reached  ( liitpsland,  Ihi-ough  the 
scarcity  of  feed  along  the  road,  we  had  some  dillicidty  in  getting  tlu'ui  along 
the  pack  ti-aclx.  the  uiiul  being  k'liee-ileep  most   of  (he  way. 

The  following  year  I  managed  to  get  another  twenty  acres  ors<'rub  cut  and 
under  grass,  making  forty  acres  in  all;  then  my  fiu'thei-  progress  was  stopped 
for  want  of  funds.  'I'he  little  money  I  had  saved  up  before  coming  out  here 
was  all  s})eiit.  and  as  thei'e  was  no  possible  chance  of  gilting  acconnnodation 


286  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

at  the  hank.  I  had  to  ,u(>  and  \v'»rk  for  others  at  sci'iih  eiitting.  i>ickiiig  up,  clear- 
ing, or  am'thing  that  I  could  get  to  do ;  hut  as  I  was  not  built  for  heavy  work, 
it  was  very  little  that  I  could  earn  in  that  way.  In  the  Spring  and  Summer 
we  milked  six  or  .seven  cows,  and  Mrs.  Matheson  made  butter,  which  was  sent 
to  Anderson's  Inlet  by  pack  horse,  and  from  there  to  Melbourne  by  boat.  At 
that  time  the  market  value  of  butter  was  fr'om  fourpence  to  sevenpence  per 
pound,  and  after  freight,  commission  and  other  charges  were  deducted,  very 
little  came  back  for  all  our  labour;  of  course,  it  never  paid  us  for  a  fraction 
of  the  Avork  we  had  to  do. 

Butter  making  then  was  very  dirt'erent  to  what  it  is  now.  Our  dairy 
wiDs.a  frame  of  tiniljer.  about  ten  by  twelve  feet,  covered  with  hessian. 
Tlie  milk  was  put  into  shallow  pans  and  left  until  the  cream  rose  to  the  top 
— about  three  days — when  it  was  taken  off  and  churned  into  butter  in  a  dash 
ciiuni,  that  is,  a  deep,  narrow  tub,  tl^e  lid  of  which  Jta;l  a  hole  in  its  centre  for 
the  handle  of  the  dash  to  work  up  and  down  in.  It  was  very  trying  to  work 
the  dasii  up  and  down  when  the  cream  became  stitf,  sometimes  for  three 
quarters  of  an  hour  at  a  time.  After  the  butter  was  made,  it  was  packed 
into  small  casks  holding  5(3  or  100  lbs.  each  and  tlien  seni  to  market.  What 
was  earned  in  that  way  and  the  little  I  earned  was  ju.st  barely  enough  for  our 
need.*.  There  seemed  no  ])Ossible  i-hance  to  get  any  more  serub  cut.  and 
when  our  j)rospects  were  so  l^ad  that  they  could  not  get  any  worse,  tenders 
were  called  for  carrying  the  mails  between  here  and  Poowong,  and  my  tender 
was  accepted  for  three  years,  three  trips  a  .veek  at  ten  shillings  a  trip.  A 
trip  in  the  Winter  months  would  take  fr-om  seven  in  the  morning  till  mid- 
night ;  in  Summer  months  it  took  about  four  hours  lass,  and  as  I  had  to  keep 
two  horses,  the  reader  will  see  that  I  was  not  overpaid;  but  thirty  shillings  a 
week  was  more  than  I  could  earn  .vorking  for  wages;  it  was  enough  to  keep 
the  wolf  from  the  door,  and  we  were  thankful  for  that  jniich. 

Just  about  that  time  work  was  commenced  on  the  Cireat  Southern  railway 
line,  and  a  large  number  of  men  Avere  employed  on  it,  and  I  was  able  to  make 
a  little  money  carrying  parcels,  and,  later,  when  the  roa'.ls  were  cleared.  I 
could,  in  the  Summer  time,  drive  a  trap  and  carry  passengers.  When  the 
three  years  expired  the  contract  was  renewed  for  another  two  years  or  until 
the  line  was  opened  to  Kornmbui-ra.  During  the  last  three  years  of  the  con- 
tract I  was  able  to  earn  good  money  on  the  road,  which  enabled  me  to  have 
some  more  scrub  cut  by  contract  each  year,  until  Ave  had  half  the  selection 
cleared  and  under  grass  and  stocked  Avith  cattlej.  From  then  right  up  to  the 
present  Ave  haA-e  not  had  any  financial  Avorries.  We  were  able  to  milk  more 
cows,  the  price  for  butter  improved  a  little,  and  Ave  purchased  a  cream  sep- 
arator, steam  engine  and  boiler,  a  churn,  butter  Avorker  and  printe^-,  and 
erected  a  good  dairy. 

After  the  raihvay  to  Korumburra  Avas  opened,  the  coal  mine  there  com- 
menced operations,  and  later  the  Outtrim  and  Jumbunna  mines  started,  all 
of  Avhich  l)rought  a  large  population  into  the  district,  nnd  Ave  Avere  able  to 
sell  all  our  butter  locally:  and  after  the  export  of  butter  began,  prices  rose, 
and  have  been  good  CA'er  since. 

By  the  year  1894  all  our  selection  Avas  under  grass,  and  :»s  those  selectors 
round  Us  Avere  making  good  progress  with  their  Avork,  it  was  not  long  after 
when  all  the  scrub  betAveen  here  and  Korumburra  was  cleared  olf  the  land: 
thus  the  great  forest  Avas  subdued  and  a  mcav  province  was  added  to  Victoria. 
The   district   is  Avell   adapted   for  dairying,  and  Avithin   a   radius  of  twenty 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  287 

miles  there  are  seven  butter  factories,  one  of  Avhich.  last  year,  made  con- 
siderablj'    over  eight   hundred   tons   of  butter. 

Although  we  made  good  progi-ess  considering  the  auiount  of  work  we 
had  to  do,  we  had  some  serious  setbacks  or  misfortunes.  In  the  year  1898, 
Avhen  the  whole  of  South  Gippsland  was  devastated  by  bush  hros.  we  lost  all 
our  gras-s  and  fencing,  thirty-five  milking  cows  and  all  the  calves  and  pigs. 
We  managed  to  save  our  dwelling  house  and  outbuildings,  but  our  losses 
that  year  amounted  to  over  five  hundred  pounds. 

In  the  year  15K)7  Mrs.  Matheson  passed  away  in  the  prime  of  her  life, 
and  at  a  time  when  we  Avere  just  beginning  to  see  some  return  for  our  labour, 
leaving  a  family  of  five  sons  and  six  daughters,  all  of  whom,  with  one  excep- 
tion, were  born  here. 

We  liad  another  setback  in  UU2.  when  our  dairy,  workshops.  Ijutter  and 
cheese  plants,  refrigerator,  two  steam  engines  and  the  whole  of  the  season's 
make  of  cheese  was  destroyed  by  fire.  That  lo.^s  amounted  to  over  one 
thousand  pounds. 

Before  closing  this  account  of  our  early  experiences.  1  would  like  to  men- 
tion the  names  of  the  late  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Archie  Kennedy,  of  Poowong,  and 
the  late  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Charles  Blew,  of  Whitelaw.  on  account  of  the  many 
kindnesses  w-e  received  from  them,  and  the  hospitalitj'  extended  to  us  wlien  we 
first  came  out  here:  their  homes  were  always  ojien  to  us  when  travelling  in 
and  out  from  our  clearing. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  R.  N.  SCOTT. 

We  got  our  land  from  the  Government  in  Oc- 
tober, 1883,  and  my  brother  and  I  left  our  farm  at 
Ballarat  on  April  18,  1884,  and  fixed  our  tent  in 
Gipi)sland  on  April  26,  1884.  We  drove  in  a  covered 
waggon,  bringing  a  lad  with  us,  coming  through 
Bacchus  Marsh,  and  across  the  Pentland  Hills, 
camping  out  by  the  way.  We  travelled  through  ^lel- 
bourne,  Dandenong,  Cranbourne  and  ''The  French- 
man's,'" a  well-knoAvn  bog  in  old  times,  to  Grant- 
ville.  Then  we  dro^e  up  to  Mr.  Goding's  residence, 
a  distance  of  about  eight  miles  from  Greantville. 
leaving  the  waggon  there  and  packing  our  goads 
the  rest  of  the  wa3^  Our  next  halt  was  at  Mr. 
Clarke's,  where  Ave  were  hospitably  entertained,  be- 
fore tackling  the  very  rough  pack  track  that  was 
our  only  road  that  ^V inter.  We  reached  Messrs. 
White  and  Sheepway's  without  mishap,  and  were 
most  kindljT^  treated  hj  them.  At  that  time  they 
were  living  in  a  tent.  From  there  we  had  to  carve 
our  way  through  the  forest  as  best  we  could  for  about  a  mile 
to  our  own  selections,  where  my  father  had  .sent  an  old  ship- 
mate named  McEwan,  who  was  an  excellent  l)ushman,  and  proved  of  great 
assistance  to  us  lads.  The  conditions  being  new.  we  rather  enjoyed  it,  and 
McEwan  was  a  jolly,  goodnatured  ^Scotchman,  who  looked  on  the  bright 
side  of  everything,  and  we  spent  many  a  jolly  evening  round  the  camp  fire 
listening  to  his  stories. 

We  .-started  scrub  cutting,  and  got  on  splendidly.  The  horses  had  to 
be  taken  back  to  Mr.  Clarke's,  a  distance  of  eight  miles,  to  be  grazed.  l)eing 
the  nearest  gi-ass  land  in  the  district.  So,  whenever  we  wanted  to  bring 
provisions  in,  we  had  to  go  to  Clarke's'  for  the  pack  horse,  bring  in  our  load, 
and  return  the  horse.  It  was  not  always  handy  to  get  the  horse,  and  once, 
when  we  had  a  1001b.  firkin  of  butter  sent  from  the  farm  at  Ballarat.  we 
carried  it  up.  Chinaman  fashion,  sAvinging  it  between  us  on  a  stick  for  a  dis- 
tance of  about  seven  miles,  Avith  the  pack  track  up  to  our  knees  in  mud.  We 
got  oiu'  meat  from  Mr.  Clarke  in  those  days,  and  after  aA'C  had  carried  it  up, 
it  was  sometimes  not  too  appetising.  An  enterprising  neighbour  of  Mr. 
Clarke  journeyed  up  one  day,  and  made  us  an  offer  of  a  Avallaby  at  half 
price,  l^d.  per  pound,  bttt  after  matiu-e  deliberation,  Ave  decided  to  stick  to 
to  the  l)eef. 

There  Avas  no  Post  Oflice  nearer  than  Fern  Hill,  a  distance  of  about 
17  miles,  where,  unless  there  Avas  a  chance  of  a  neighbour  going,  aac  had  to 
walk  for  oiu-  mail  CAcry  Aveek. 

Our  lad,  unfortunately,  met  Avith  an  accident :  his  axe  sli]oped  Avhile  cut- 
ting scrub,  scA-ering  one  of  his  toes.      We  managed  to  sto])  the  lileeding.  and 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  ogQ 

carried  liiiu  to  the  camp,  got  a  horse  to  take  liiin  out.  and  sent  him  to  the 
Melbourne  Hospital. 

We  broke  up  camp  and  returned  to  Ballarat  after  finishing  the  scrub,  let- 
ting the  burning  and  picking  up.  but.  being  a  wet  Summer,  the  contractor,  un- 
fortunately, missed  the  burn,  throwing  us  a  vear  back.  The  following  Sum- 
mer, December.  1^85.  the  scrub  caught  fire  from  Mr.  Sheepway's  burn,  and 
he  wrote  and  told  us  we  had  a  good  burn.  We  started  for  (iippsland  ao-ain 
picked  up.  sowed  down  and  fenced  the  burn.  "      ' 

In  the  following  Spring  (Septen^ber.  1886)  we  brought  our  first  in- 
stalment of  stock  down,  driving  a  hundred  poddies  from  Ballarat.  We  built 
a  tAvo-roomed  log  hut  which  served  us  for  a  home  for  some  time,  and  did  for 
a  kitchen  later  on.  Afterwards,  we  had  some  timber  sawn  by  i)itsaw  on  the 
spot,  and  had  a  two-roomed  cottage  built.  In  those  .lays  everything  had  to  be 
packed  in  on  horsel)ack.  and  it  can  be  quite  understood  how  "awkward  it  was 
to  pack  furniture.  Anything  breakable  had  to  be  carried  the  latter  part  of 
the  journey ._  It  i?  easily  imagined  how  pleased  we  were  to  get  our  first 
"N  ehicle  in,  after  packing  for  so  many  j-ears. 

When  the  cottage  was  finished,  my  sisters  took  turn  about  to  come  down 
and  keep  house,  and  we  soon  got  quite  comfortable.  My  eldest  sister,  Annie, 
airiying  in  March.  1«87,  was  the  first  woman  to  come\)n  our  selections:  in 
fact,  the  first  to  come  to  our  part  of  the  country. 

The  neighbours  were  sociable  and  friendly,  and  as  more  track>  were  made 
passable,  we  were  able  to  do  some  visiting,  and  as  the  condition-  were  then, 
we  depended  on  each  other  for  companionship.  There  was  a  feeling  of  good- 
fellowship  amongst  the  early  settlers,  bound  together  by  the  diflicult  nature 
of  the  cotinti-y.  and  one  was  ready  to  help  the  other  always  in  an  eniicrgency, 
which  lessened  the  load  and  made  l)ui'dens  easier  to  bear. 

We  planted  a  garden,  and  the  fruit  trees  came  on  apace.  \\v  had  apple 
trees  bearing  four  years  after  planting,  and  any  (piantity  of  llowrr.-. 

We  spent  no  end  of  lime  looking  for  roads,  and  it  \va>  \v\\  hard,  the 
forest  being  so  dense,  to  find  the  best  grades.  Mr.  Sheepway  and  1  wcic  the 
first  to  find  the  road  along  the  ridge  from  Sheei)\vay"s  to  .loM'pii  'lliom.-onV. 
Also,  my  brother  and  I  were  the  first  to  (ind  the  road  along  the  ridge  to 
Bena,  from  our  selections  to  Binnie's.  then  known  as  FVa/crV.  Kvei\-  vear 
scrub  wa.s  cut.  and  more  counti-y  opened  iij),  and  we  divided  our  time  be- 
tween the  fai-m  at  Uallarat  and  {Jii)psland,  until  1M!)().  We  found  it  rather 
dn'Hcult  to  work  both  places  so  far  apart,  so,  after  consultation  with  my 
father,  decided  to  let  the  farm,  and  all  come  to  (iii)i)sland   to  Iinc. 

I  |»  lo  till-  tinii'  tlii>  was  no  nian">  land,  and  we  had  not  paid  any  rates, 
but  in  tiie  follow  ini;-  year.  IMM.  tlic  i'oowong  and  deetlio  Sliirc  wa>  con- 
stituted, and  I  lia|)|)cn('d  t<i  be  one  of  the  first  councillors  returned.  Mr. 
(xiilespie  being  icturned  al  I  be  ^anic  tinx'.  and  e\er  since  we  have  Known 
what  it  is  to  pay  late-. 

We  bad  cleared  ;i  good  poi'tion  of  my  father's  i'loclc.  and  we  found  there 
were  better  ituildinir  ~iie-<  there,  more  level  coMiilry  for  cidt  iv  al  iou.  gardens, 
etc.,  so   made  oui-   home   where   we   are   now   living. 

As  we  u>ed  the  I'oad  to  Kongwiik'.  .lumbunna  and  Korinnburra  most 
and    began    to   attiMnl    the    .Moynria    chuicii.    we  >eenie(|   to  get    away    from   the 


290  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

people  oil  the  other  side.  Inil  met  iimiij'  nice  nei.uhl^uurs  in  the  Kongwak  and 
.luiiiluinna  (h^'.riets.  with  wlioin  we  have  1)een  friendly  ever  since. 

.^h)^^l  ol'  the  .scrub  cutling  and  picking  up  was  done  by  contract:  in  fact, 
we  had  no  day  hibour  in  tho.se  days,  and  anything  that  could  not  be  let  by 
contract  \ve  did  ourselves.  AYe  got  a  good  burn  on  my  father's  block  in 
1891.  and  being  a  large  piece,  put  an  advertisement  in  one  of  the  Melbourne 
pa\>e]s,  for  pickers  uj).  All  sorts  of  men  came,  some  good  and  others 
quite  useless.  We  used  to  fix  them  up  with  provisions,  show  them  the 
picking  up.  let  a  contract  to  them,  and  when  Ave  returned  in  a  few  days 
to  see  how  they  were  getting  on,  find  they  had  decamped,  lock,  stock  and 
barreL  We  had  heavy  rains  that  year,  which  made  it  rather  difficult  for 
new  chums.  Amongst  them  were  tw^o  men  who  had  seen  better  days.  One 
of  them  devoted  a  good  deal  of  time  to  nature  studies,  and  brought  us 
lyre  bird  tails,  etc.  The  other  said  he  had  come  for  the  good  of  his 
health,  and  to  be  near  the  eucalyptus  trees,  which  he  leckoned  had  a  gi-eat 
virtue,  and  always  kept  some  of  the  branches  hanging  about  his  tent,  and 
the  leaves  under  his  pillow,  so  they  could  not  reasonably  expect  to  get  umch 
work  done. 

Considering  the  rough  nature  of  the  country,  we  had  very  few  acci- 
dents, but  there  were  two  men  killed  while  cutting  scrub,  one  while  sitting 
at  linich,  and  one  by  a  falling  spar,  and  there  were  several  minor  accidents, 
while  clearing  in  the  early  days. 

P^vcry  Gipp.siander  remembers  the  disastrous  tires  in  1898.  It  was  a 
very  dry  year,  and  we  heard  how  the  people  were  suli'ering  in  the  Strzelecki 
and,  P'cMAvong  districts.  The  fire  was  raging  then  in  January,  and  Ave 
little  thought  it  Avould  come  to  us,  but  it  very  soon  did.  The  fire  caught 
in  the  scrub  first,  and  we  watched  it  night  and  day.  trying  to 
keep  it  off  the  grass.  We  had  some  very  good  men  at  the  time. 
fine,  trustworthy  .fellows,  A\^ho  took  their  turn  at  the  night  Avatch,  and 
worked  as  if  the  place  belonged  to  them.  But  ail  our  efforts  Avere  unavail- 
ing, and  on  the  8th  of  February,  1898,  a  fierce  hot  north  Avind,  bloAving 
s^jarks,  leaves  and  pieces  of  bark  in  a  furious  gale,  broughr  the  fire  right 
over  the  place.  We  mustered  the  sheep,  and  brought  them  to  the  home 
paddocks,  and  also  a  good  number  of  the  cattle.  We  then  gave  our  atteii- 
ti(Mi  to  the  homestead;  there  Avere  26  men  round  it,  and  after  a  fierce  fight 
with  the  fire,  we  managed  to  save  it.  We  were  aided  Ijy  a  piece  of 
scrub  being  burnt  to  the  north-w^est  of  us,  about  a  fortnight  be- 
fore, Avhich  formed  a  break.  Next  morning,  after  the  fire,  Ave 
found  53  bullocks  roasted:  many  others  also  Avere  blinded,  and 
it  was  pitiable  to  see  the  poor  brutes.  All  the  fencing  Avas  burnt,  and 
the  horses,  working  bullocks  and  milking  coavs  could  practically  get  any- 
where they  pleased  that  Winter.  We  had  to  cart  chaff  for  them,  and 
managed  to  save  the  horses,  but  lost  all  our  Avorking  bullocks.  The  face  of 
Nature  Avas  changed  to  a  big  black  Avilderness.  MauA^  of  our  neighbours 
to  the  north  were  burnt  out:  seA^en  houses  in  Kilcunda-road  were  totally 
destroyed.  It  Avas  then  we  first  found  the  benefit  of  the  i:)lains  land  for 
Winter  gi-azing.  It  was  pegged  out,  and  taken  up  (luickly  after  fire  year. 
We  turned  our  cattle  doAA'n  there,  and  got  them  nearly  all  back  Avhen  Ave 
Avent  to  muster  in  the  Spring. 

1  have    omitted    to    mention    auA'thing  about    the    BlackAvood    district. 
For  some  years  after  Ave  came  here  it  Avas  simply  a  reserve  for  timber.     In 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  291 

the  year  1890  the  Governiiient  decided  to  open  it  for  selection  in  small  areas 
of  about  a  hundred  acres.  It  is  a  well  known  fact  how  successful  the 
selectors  were  on  those  small  holdings,  thus  proving  how  suitable  this  hill 
country  is  for  closer  settlement  They  wisely  surveyed  the  roads  pre\i()us 
to  selection.  Had  this  been  done  in  our  case,  we  would  have  had  metal 
roads  to-day,  as  large  sums  of  money  have  been  spent  in  purchasing  devi- 
ations. 

The  year  previous  to  our  coming  to  Gippsland,  the  late  Mr.  Edwards 
and  family  selected  in  the  Glenalvie  district,  at  that  time  known  as  Jum- 
bunna.  and  it  was  through  them  that  we  heard  of  this  good  land  being 
available  for  selection.  Mr.  Edwards  was  one  of  the  first  to  open  up  the 
tracks  in  that  district.  Mrs.  Walker  was  the  first  woman  to  arrive  in  Glen- 
alvie, to  be  followed  shortly  afterwards  by  the  Misses  Edwards. 

I  have  dealt  with  some  of  our  earlier  experiences  in  Gippsland,  as 
everyone  knows  about  the  later  period. 


Recollections   and   Experiences 

MR.  W.  J.  WILLIAMS. 

In  the  year  1877  the  writer,  with  three  others,  left 
the  Ballarat  district  for  South  Gippsland  in  search 
of  land  to  select.  On  reaching  Melbourne,  we  shoul- 
dered our  swags,  made  our  way  down  Bourke-street^ 
and  secured  our  passages  in  the  coach  for  Oakleigh. 
From  there  we  took  train  to  Morwell,  which  we 
readied  about  11  p.m.,  and  made  for  a  new  board- 
ing-house, conducted  by  Mr.  Collier.  There  we 
were  quickly  supplied  with  a  good  meal,  after  which 
we  were  shown  to  our  rooms,  and  although  I  have 
sjient  many  nights  m  better  quarters.  I  have  seldom 
slept  more  soundly  than  I  did  on  that  occasion. 

Tn  the  morning,  after  receiving  full  directions,  we 
started  for  Gallagher's  camp,  at  ]Mirl)oo  Xoith. 
About  midway  Mr.  Bair  had  established  a  wayside 
inn  or  boarding-house,  where  we  ])artook  of  a  good 
dinner,  had  a  rest  and  a  chat  with  our  host,  and 
started  again  for  our  destination,  which  we  reached 
just  before  sunset.     After  a  night's  rest  in  one  of 

the  half-dozen  or  so  of  tents  provided,  we  rose  in  the  morning  to  begin  the 

great  event   and   object   of  our  journey. 

At  the  camp  we  met  several  men,  one  a  cook,  who  kept  allcomers  sup- 
plied Avith  meals;  the  others  were  guides  for  laud  hunters.  So  far,  we 
had  all  brought  our  swags,  containing  a  blanket,  inig.  some  spare  items  of 
clothing,  and  a  good  oilskin  overcoat.  A^'e  caused  some  merriment  to  our 
guide  when  he  saw  us  preparing  to  take  oiu-  belongings  with  us  on  our 
journey  into  the  scrub.  .  After  a  good  amount  of  discussion,  we  decided  to 
take  our  oilskins,  though  our  guide  advised  otherwise,  and  in  proof  of 
his- arguments  told  us  he  would  wear  tlannel  shirt,  ])ants,  boots  and  hat  (am 
not  sure  about  socks).  Perhaps  I  shotdd  have  mentioned  that  (lallagher's 
camp  Avas  established  especially  for  the  business  of  shoAving  selectors  avail- 
able land.  The  charge  Avas  £1  a  day,  or  £10,  if  one  pegged  out  a  block. 
This  charge  included  provisions.  After  several  days  in  the  scrub,  Ave  re- 
turned to  camp,  not  at  all  favourably  impressed  Avith  Avhat  Ave  had  seen, 
and  .-atisfiod  to  let  those  who  would  burA'  themselves  in  the  scrul)  and  big  trees 
of  that  part,  but  we  would  not. 

SeA-eral  amusing  incidents  occurred  during  this  trip.  A  lad  of  about 
the  same  age  as  the  writer  Avas  in  the  party,  and  while  passing  through  a 
particularly  rough  bit  of  country,  after  some  hours  of  Avalking,  Avhich  had 
entirely  knocked-up  our  young  friend,  Ave  came  to  a  very  large  log.  He 
made  several  fruitless  attempts  to  mount  it,  falling  back  each  time,  then  he 
made  an  extra  effort  Avhich  landed  him  on  top.  The  log  Avas  very  slippery, 
and  before  he  could  obtain  a  grip,  he  started  head  foremost  down  the  other 
side,  to  the  amusement  of  us  all  Avho  had  ffot  safelv  over.     One  niirht   five 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 


•293 


IIKAVV 


S.M'MNd     CnlNTIiV     (   l.l-.A  i;  Kl  •     UK     SCltri;     .\M«     INKKIt     <;it.\ss. 


-'94  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

of  us  slept  in  a  G  x  8  tent,  pitched  with  posts  and  ridge  pole  on  a  fairly  steep 
place.  After  putting  a  lot  of  tree-fern  leaves  on  the  floor  to  lie  on,  we 
went  to  bed,  all  lying  crossways  of  the  tent.  Owing  to  the  slope  of  the 
ground,  it  was  not  long  till  the  one  who  lay  at  the  back  end  was  doubled 
around  the  i)ost  which  carried  the  ridge-pole,  by  the  weight  of  the  other 
four  gradually  working  down  the  hill.  This  soon  became  unbearable,  and  when 
he  could  stand  it  no  longer,  he  got  out  and  lay  down  at  the  top.  Then 
the  next  one  passed  through  a  similar  experience  with  the  post,  and  he  got 
out  and  lay  down  at  the  top.  When  each  had  had  their  turn  at  the  post 
several  times,  and  the  fern  leaves  were  getting  very  hard,  most  of  us  gave 
up  the  attempt  to  sleep  in  disgnist,  and  finished  tlie  night  by  the  fire. 

After  bidding  farewell  to  our  friends'  at  the  camp,  we  walked  back 
to  Morwell,  and  then  went  by  train  to  our  homes,  to  tell  some  tall  yarns 
about  supplejack,  wiregrass.  and  big  trees,  many  of  which  grew,  according  to 
our  estimate,  uj:)  to  350  feet  high,  and  one  giant  which  was  four-sided  near 
the  ground,  and  Avhich  we  stepped,  measured  seven  yards  on  each  of  three 
sides  and  five  on  the  other. 

Again,  about  the  beginning  of  1882,  the  Avriter  had  another  attack  of 
land  fever,  and  Avent  again  to  Mirl)oo,  and  was  taken  this  time  by  E.  Steward 
out  Mardan  w^ay,  through  J.  Smith  and  Sons'  and  Watt  and  Sons'  land, 
which  had  just  been  survej^ed,  and  thence  to  where  the  Ruby  railway  station 
now  stands.  This  time  also  I  returned  home  without  selecting,  after  I 
had  also  inspected  a  good  deal  of  land  in  the  Ti-afalgar  district.  The  heavy 
timber  frightened  me,  but  about  a  month  aftervrards,  having  gi^en  the 
matter  very  careful  consideration,  I  decided  (o  make  application  for  a  block 
of  land  we  had  seen  at  Ruby.  I  paid  the  survey  fee  of  £15,  and  after 
waiting  about  six  months  got  word  from  the  Lands  Department  to  apply 
for  a  refund,  as  the  land  had  been  previously  applied  for  by  one  Cummins, 
who  was  a  member  of  our  party  when  Ave  inspected  the  land. 

The  next  year,  1883,  in  the  month  of  April,  I  started  with  several  of 
m}'  neighbours  for  this  part  of  Gippsland.  A  few  that  I  knew  had  seen 
the  country,  were  favourably  impres.sed,  and  were  applying  for  blocks.  We 
came  by  train  to  Drouin,  and  then  had  the  choice  of  a  fearfully  rough  coach 
ride  to  Poowong,  or  Avalk.  If  you  chose  the  former,  you  paid  7/6  at  the 
starting  end,  with  the  chances  about  3  to  2  against  your  being  carried  through 
to  3^our  destination:  if  you  walked,  joii  reached  your  destination  in  about 
the  same  time,  but  not  quite  so  tired. 

When  we  reached  where  Jumbunna  railway  station  now  stands,  a  young 
man  engaged  there  scrub-cutting  undertook  to  act  as  our  guide,  and  show 
us  land  further  south  or  south-w^est,  available  for  selection.  We  went 
through  the  farce  of  driving  in  several  pegs,  and  on  our  arrival  back  at 
Melbourne,  put  in  our  applications.  The  writer's  application  was  for  a 
block  west  of  James  Rainbow's,  in  the  Parish  of  Kongwak.  In  due  time 
I  received  notice  from  the  Lands  Department  to  pay  £27/10/-  as  survey 
fee.  This  amount  to  me  seemed  very  large,  and  made  terrible  inroads  into 
my  stock  of  cash.  However,  I  was  pleased  with  the  prospect  of  getting 
the  land,  and  exercised  my  full  right  to  growl  at  the  Government  and  all 
the  departmental  sharks,  and  decided  to  put  up  with  what  I  could  not 
prevent. 

In  the  month  of  October  I  received  notice  to  attend  a  land-board  at 
Drouin,  but  before  doing  so,  paid  another  visit,  with  my  father  and  one 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERlEx\CES.  295 

of  the  Messrs.  Rainbow,  to  the  land,  walked  on  the  survey  line  around  the 
outer  boundary  of  the  seven  blocks  that  had  been  applied  for  by  our  party, 
and  was  well  pleased,  that  is.  with  the  land,  not  with  the  walk,  which  was 
one  of  the  hardest  and  worst  I  have  ever  done.  After  inspection,  we  attended 
the  land-board  at  Drouin.  and  were  successful  in  our  application. 

I  then  returned  to  Ballarat,  and  at  once  set  about  makinir  preparation 
to  return  to  the  land,  and  beofin  cutting  scrub.  Some  of  our  party  had 
just  pitched  their  camp  about  400  yards  from  the  present  Moyarra  post 
office  when  I  landed,  in  the  first  week  of  Xovember.  I  left  my  blankets,  etc., 
at  Poowong,  to  come  on  in  due  course,  per  Mr.  Jas.  Dixon,  storekeeper,  of 
that  place,  so  had  to  put  in  my  first  night  without  bed  clothes.  My  friends 
kindly  offered  to  share  with  me.  l>ut  I  declined,  saying  T  could  put 
m  the  night  (luitc  easily  l)y  the  fire.  A  largo  damper  was  prepared, 
and  buried  in  the  ashes  and  coals  of  the  fire,  and  after  giving  me  the 
necessary  instructions,  my  mates  retired  to  bed,  and  I  began  what  ]n'oved 
to  be  a  very  long  night.  T  wrote  several  letters,  one  to  a  young  lady  friend, 
who  afterwards  consented  to  share  my  misfortunes,  as  Avell  as  my  fortunes, 
for  life,  and  is  at  this  moment  sitting  by  my  side,  after  a  little  over  32 
years  of  married  life,  during  which  time  she  has  done  her  full  share,  and 
more.  Just  here  it  might  not  be  out  of  place  to  refer  a  little  to  a  woman's 
lot  in  Gippsland  in  the  early  days.  It  was  dull  and  lonely  in  the  extreme; 
she  seldom,  if  ever,  left  her  home,  or  saw  one  of  her  own  sex.  A  man's 
business  and  work  often  took  him  out  on  the  tracks,  where  he  would  meet 
others  and  compare  notes,  and  come  back  feeling  brighter  and  realising 
the  truth  of  those  words  written  so  long  ago:  "As  iron  sharpeneth  iron,  so 
doth  the  countenance  of  a  man  his  friend." 

I  had  come  over  from  Ballarat  with  the  determination  to  face  the 
scrub  alone,  and  cut  some  scrub,  if  only  a  few  acres,  s'o  that  I  might  have 
a  little  grass  for  the  following  year;  but,  after  finding  my  way  along 
survey  lines  to  my  block,  my  heart  failed  me.  I  turned  back  and  joined 
my  friends  in  their  camp,  and  worked  with  them  till  Xmas.,  on  the  uuder- 
standing  that   tbey  would   work  with  me  the  following  cutting  season. 

Scrub-cutting,  although  dangerous  work,  was  to  me  very  fascinating. 
Though  T  had  never  done  exactly  similar  work.  T  was  not  new  to  bard 
work,  and  the  days  and  weeks  to  Xmas  faii-ly  flew  by.  and  our  gang  of  new- 
chum  scrul)-cntters  became  pi-oficieut.  not  oidy  :it  the  s'ci-ul).  but  at  bread- 
making,   cooking   (lauipcr.-.    p;uical\('s.   stews.   I'ice,   etc..   oir. 

•  Then,  through  dragging  thi-oiigh  the  scrul).  swoi-dgi-ass  and  wiregfras's, 
our  pantaloons  all  wore  through  at  the  front  of  the  legs.  The  writer  put 
large  pieces  of  bag  over  the  holes,  but  this  proved  a  faibiic.  for  in  a  few 
davs  it  had  fi-ayed  out,  and  was'  a  mass  of  strings,  and  the  rent,  if  it  was 
not  made  worse,  was  certainly  not  made  nnich  better.  One  of  my  mates 
had  a  ])iil1iant  idea.  Tie  cut  the  tronser  legs  otT,  and  .sewed  them  on  back 
to  front.  This.  tof).  had  drawbacks,  as  there  was  no  roojn  for  the  knees,  and 
a  lot  of  slack  at  the  \r.\rk  where  it  conld  not  be  U'-ed :  liowever.  we  wei-c 
all  very  happy. 

The  next  year,  instead  of  entting  snub  myself.  I  let  a  contrnet  to 
Messrs.  Kennedy  Bi-os.,  of  Poowong,  to  cut  and  pick  up  .50  acres  of  scrub 
up  to  15  inches  in  diameter,  at  3.5/-  an  acre.  This  contract  was  duly  carried 
out,  and  after  burning,  a  mixture  of  English  grasses  and  clovers  was  sown 
about  the  month   of  Mav.     Tn   Xf»vember.  the  grass  was  from  one  in  three 


•29t)  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

feet  hiffh.  nnd  we  then  sent  over  a  mob  of  cattle  from  the  Ballarat  district, 
which  all  did  remarkably  well.  One,  which  I  particularly  remember,  a 
two-year-old  heifer,  renred  a  vealer  that  year,  and  we  afterwards  milked  her 
in  our  dairy  for  13  consecutive  seasons;  then  she  had  a  dead  calf,  making 
a  total  of  15  calves.  After  this  we  fattened  her,  and  sent  har  to  Newmarket, 
where  she  made  £7/2/6,  which,  compared  to  present  prices,  would  be  equal 
to  £20  now.  It  is  my  opinion  that  this  cow,  in  the  13  seasons  I  milked 
her,  made  4000  lbs.  of  butter. 

Now,  I  must  go  back  again  in  my  story  to  the  time  when  I  built  my 
rirst  house,  in  March,  1886.  With  the  help  of  three  others,  T  began  a  two- 
roomed  log  house,  constructed  of  the  straight  spars  over  15  inches  in  diameter, 
which  had  Ixien  left  standing  on  the  clearing.  These  we  cut  into  lengths 
of  27  feet  ancl  15  feet.  They  were  crossed  at  the  corners,  and  let  into  each 
other  till  the  logs  touched;  a  row  of  logs  across  the  centre,  let  in  the  same 
as  those  at  the  corners,  made  a  substantial  partition.  All  the  walls  were 
carried  up  solidly  till  the  tops  of  the  doors  and  windows  were  reached, 
when  openings  Avere  cut  out  to  the  width  required:  then  the  building  was 
carried  up  as  before  till  the  required  height  of  the  walls  was  reached.  al)out 
8  feet.  The  roof  w^as  constructed  of  split  rafters,  and  I  had  purchased  4  x 
1^  Oregon  for  purlins  and  8  feet  iron  to  cover  same.  The  materials  mention.^ 
above,  with  some  6  x  %  T.  and  G.  flooring  boards,  gave  me  my  first  prac- 
tical experience  in  packing.  All  the  above  material  was  packed  through  a 
narrow  track  about  5  feet  wide  for  three  miles,  the  iron  in  8  feet  and  the 
boards  in  12  feet  lengths.  When  the  load  had  been  put  on.  the  horse  would 
be  sent  into  the  narrow  bush  track,  and  the  driver,  by  holding  the  boards 
at  the  back,  could  steer  the  front  ends  clear  of  the  trees.  The  work  was 
not  pleasant  either  to  man  or  horse,  yet  practically  everything  was  carried 
in  that  way  during  the:  early  months  of  settlement. 

The  road  (|uestion  was  one  of  our  greatest  troubles,  many  miles  having 
to  be  cut  bv  the  settlers  themselves.  For  several  years  I  did  not  know  to 
which  Shire  I  belonged,  finallv  discovering  that  I  was  almost  on  the  extreme 
boimdaries  of  the|  Philip  Island  and  the  Buln  Buln  Shires,  which  meant 
getting  no  attention  from  either.  However,  some  years  later,  the  new  Shire 
of  Poowong  and  Jeetho  Avas  formed,  having  its  ceintre  first  at  Jeetho.  and  later 
at  Korumburra.  and  from  that  time  forward  things  rapidly  improved: 
nevertheless.  South  Gippsland  has  been  noted  for  its  bad  roads  until  quite 
recent  years,  and,  looking  back  to  the  beginning,  I  can  say,  without  hesita- 
tion, that  packing  and  carting  Avas  the  worst  Avork  we  ever  had  in  those 
days. 

During  the  first  12  months  of  residence  here,  our  work  Avas  very  varied 
and  of  an  entirelv  new  character  to  me.  I  Avorked  at  building  >heds.  grubbing 
and  fencing  garden  and  land  for  cultivation  during  the  day,  and  lining 
and  paperincf  house,  and  m.aking  furniture  every  evening  till  Avell  on  to 
midnight,  working  ahvays  15  to  16  hours  out  of  the  24:  yet  the  days  fleAV 
by.  the  only  one  that  dragged  being  Sunday. 

We  began  to  milk  a  feAv  cows  the  first  Summer,  about  4  or  5.  setting  the 
milk  in  dishes,  and  when  the  butter  w^as  made,  putting  it  doAvn  into  casks, 
which  had  lo  be  packed  eitheir  to  Poowong,  and  then  sent  to  Melbourne  via 
Drouin.  or  to  InA^edoch.  to  be  shipped  by  boat  to  the  same  market.  On 
one  occasion.  I  took  5  casks  of  butter  to  Inverloch.  where  they  we^re  taken 
on  board,  and  the  boat  sailed  up  to  the  LoAver  Tarwin.  Avhere  the  captain 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  297 

li:)(l  ;i  farm.  The  boat  was  anchored  thtj(re  for  several  months  with  my  butter 
on  board,  but  I  Imew  nothing  of  this  at  the  time,  and  waited  anxiously 
foi-  our  returns,  for  so  much  depended  on  that  cheque.  However,  after  some 
four  or  five  months,  when  I  would  have  gladly  sold  my  chances  in  that 
transaction  for  £5.  the  mail  brouofht  me  a  letter,  with  my  butter  returns,  and 
a  cheque  for  £14:  and  I  can  assure  you  I  never  had  a  more  pleasant  sur- 
prise. 

"When  returning:  to  Ballarat  for  the  second  load  of  my  l)elono:ino:s, 
which  I  carted  over  in  a  dray.  T  took  a  cask  of  butter  to  Melbourne  for 
one  of  my  neighbours,  and  delivered  it  at  the  store  of  one  of  thei  agents, 
who  certainly  had  things  very  much  in  their  own  hands.  The  net  returns 
to  dairymen  were  very  small,  ranging  from  2d.  to  6d.  per  lb.  in  the  Summer, 
and  reaching  as  high  as  2/-  in  the  "Winter,  when  we  had  none.  South  Gipps- 
land  dairymen  can  certainly  claim  to  have  brought  the  indut>try_here  from  the 
bott(mi  rung  of  the  ladder  to  its  present  very  creditable  position. 

About  the  year  188f>  or  IS^O  we  bought  our  first  separator,  a  .').'»-galIon 
horizontal.  From  that  time  forward  the  work,  especially  of  oiir  women 
folk,  was  very  much  lightened,  and  the  quality  of  the  butter  greatly  imjM-oved. 
About  this  time  also,  a  small  butter  factory  was  established  in  the  district, 
and  although,  when  compared  w^ith  factories  of  the  present  flay,  it  might 
be  considered  a  very  second-rate  affair,  it  entirely  revolutionised  the  industry. 
There  are  many  things  in  connection  with  the  early  history  of  our  factory 
that  I  clearly  remember,  but  one  thing  I  remember  with  some  feelings  of 
rei^ret,  viz.,  beinfif  the  successful  tenderer  iov  the  purcliase  of  butteruiilk 
from  the  factorv  for  12  months,  at  3-4d.  per  100  gallons,  with  8  miles  <)f 
unmade  Yankee-grubl)ed  road  to  cart  it  over,  and  feeding  it  to  pigs,  which 
when  fattened  to  150  lbs.  weight  were  Avorth  40 /-  to  :^0 '-.  This  will  give 
the  reader  some  idea  of  the  financial  result  of  the  deal. 

Another  experience  I  well  remember  in  the  early  days  was  a  deal  in 
store  bullocks  at  £4  a  head.  After  feeding  them  for  some  months.  T  sent  a 
truck  to  Melbourne,  losing  one  on  the  way.  and  the  balance  of  the  truck 
netted  just  £4  a  head.  Aft^'r  keeping  the  balance  for  1«  months.  T  sold 
them  at  £5/5/-,  less  commission.  This  was  about  on  a  ]iar  with  other  branches 
of  induslry:  nothing  seemed  plentiful  but  hard  work,  mud  and  scrub;  in- 
comes were  very  small,  but  our  health  was  good  and  our  wants  few.  Few 
of  the  settl(«rs  had  wives,  but  those  who  had.  always  found  them  at  home,  con- 
se(|uently  shopping  davs  wei-e  few  and  far  between.  AVe  generally  purchased 
a  year's"  provisions  at  a  time,  and  they  were  brought  in  via  Tnverloch  or 
Drouin.  Tt  (ift<m  happened  at  Tnverloch  that  the  boat  was  3  to  C  weeks 
behind  time,  often  rausinff  several  trips  of  empiiry.  and  not  iiifre<iuently 
goods  went  astrav.  This  annual  getting  in  of  supplies  was  an  impoi-tant 
event,  and  by  the  time  evei-vthing  was  unpacked,  examined  and  pn(  aside 
again,  always  mean!  work  I'ill  inidniglil.  l»iit  prodiifcd  a  very  ronifor(at)le 
feeling  nevei'theless. 

Each  year  as  it  passed  l>v  saw  may  changes  and  impi-ovenients  in  the 
district,  but  probably  nothiiiL^  worked  so  great  a  change  as  the  adxciit  of 
the  railway,  when  it  reached  Korumburra,  and  .settlers  were  able  to  deliver 
their  prodiice  there,  and  obtain  the  necessaries  for  carrying  on  the  farm.  Many 
of  our  'n-eatest  difficulties  were  o^er.  but  one  great  difficulty  always  was 
^ith  us— bad  roads.  Till  quite  recently  no  Winter  ever  pas.sed  without  some* 
portion  of  the  rf)ad  to  our  town  being  impassable,  or  nearly  ^o.      I  he  soft 


298  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

nature  of  the  soil,  coupled  with  over  40  inches  of  rainfall,  steep  gradients,  and 
a  Ci)iiiH-il.  not  overlliisli  with  money,  made  the  road  trouble  a  very  real 
one  indeed,  and  made  the  Winter  season  in  Gippsland  often  very  trying; 
but  always  when  one  felt  one  conld  not  stand  it  any  longer,  the  change  into 
Spring,  with  the  luxuriant  growth  of  rich  grasses  covering  the  hills  as  far 
as  the  eve  could  reach  with  a  l^eautiful  verdure,  caused  the  dullness  and 
trials  of  the  Winter  to  pass  quickly  from  the  mind  for  at  least  a  season. 

Our  country  was  what  is  generally  known  as'  big  spar  country.  It  cost 
from  '20/-  to  25/-  an  acre  to  cut  down,  and  anywhere  from  £3  to  £5/10/-  to  pick 
up  and  burn  off.  and  for  one  piece  the  writer  paid  £7/10/-  an  acre.  Although 
most  of  our  timber  was  of  the  spar  or  medium  sized  tree  type,  occasionally 
very  large  trees  indeed  were  found.  On  a  piece  of  land  which  I  rented  for 
some  years,  now  owned  by  Mr.  Armstrong,  was  a  very  large  hollow  log.  into 
Avhich  a  three-year-old  bidlock  walked  and  crawled  a  distance  of  fully  30 
feet,  being  lost  for  18  days,  when  a  man  who  happened  to  be  passing  heard 
it  call  out.  Word  Avas  brought  to  me.  and  Ave  cut  a  hole  in  the  side  of  the 
log  big  enough  to  take  the  bullock  out.  He  was  lifted  on  to  his  feet,  and 
after  a  few  moments  was  able  to  stand,  after  which  his  first  act  was  to  charge 
his  rescuers.  That  log  wdth  the  hole  cut  in  its  side  lay  there  for  many  years, 
but  has  since  been  destroyed. 

Most  of  our  energies  in  the  early  days  were  directed  towards  destroying 
timber.  It  is  now  scarce  etiough  on  most  holdings,  but  it  Avas  not,  generally 
speaking,  of  a  character  Avorth  saving,  CA^en  had  it  been  possible  to  do  so, 
beino-  young,  sappy,  and  of  short  duration,  especially  AA'hen  put  into  the 
gi'ound. 

AVallabies,  opossujns.  dingoes,  native  bears  and  lyre  birds,  all  of  Avhich 
were  very  plentiful,  are  now  almost  extinct,  while  many  birds  and  animals 
not  then  seen  are  plentifid  noAv. 

The  year  1898 — bushfire  year — Avill  long  be  remembered,  many  of  the 
isettlers  losing  practically  ever\i:hing  they  possessed  except  the  land;  never- 
theless, they  were  soon  going  again,  the  old  pioneering  characteristics  stand- 
ing them  in  good  stead  in  this  second  beginning.  People  with  well  improved 
properties  lost  heaAily  through  the  fires,  while  properties  Avhich  had  been 
badly  handled  were  improA^ed. 

FcAv  people  in  Gippsland  have  become  rich.  Avhile  very  few  who  have 
really  tried  have  failed:  many  are  comfortable  and  Avell  satisfied,  while  few 
Avould  care  to  go  through  all  the  early  experiences  again  for  the  same  re- 
muneration, and  it  is  very  doubtful  if  Australia  contains  at  the  present  time 
a  sufficient  number  of  men  and  women  Avho  Avould  be  willing  to  undertake  the 
task. 

Dairying.  Avhich  naturally  began  in  a  A'ery  small  Avay,  has  become  the 
principal  and  by  far  the  most  profitable  industry  of  our  district;  good  dairy 
herds  are  to  be  found  on  almost  every  farm,  comfortable  and  commodious 
sheds  haAe  been  erected,  in  many  cases  milking  machines  haA'e  been  in- 
stalled, and  otiier  modern  conveniences,  making  the  occupation  of  dairying 
much  more  attractive  than  under  the  old  methods. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  W.  RAINBOW. 


Alioiit  Febiiiurv.  1883.  we  heard  there  was  some 
good  s'cnib  hind  open  for  selection,  south  from 
Poowong.  in  the  parish  of  Jnmbnnna  East ;  so  in 
April  of  the  same  year  my  l)rother  Harrv  and  I  left 
Bnninyong  to  go  and  inspect  and  select  if  good  land 
was  available.  We  were  directed  to  take  train  to 
Dronin,  thence  hj  coach  to  Poowong  and  tramp 
the  rest  of  the  way.  We  arrived  at  Dronin  all 
right,  but  only  to  find  all  seats  taken  on  the  coach, 
so  we  made  enquiries  to  see  if  there  was  any  other 
way  of  getting  to  l^ooAvong.  but  found  we  would 
have  to  aa  ait  a  couple  of  days  or  walk  the  distance, 
which  some  folks  said  was  not  very  far:  a  lot  of 
people  walked  out;  it  was  about  16  or  18  miles.  We 
started  next  morning  to  tramp  out,  and  were  told 
there  Avas  a  half-Avay  house  which  we  would  be  able 
to  reach  by  dinner  time;  so  we  trudged  gaily  along, 
not  seeing  anyone  on  the  road  lill  we  reckoned  Ave 
Avere  getting  near  the  half-Avay  house,  when  we  met 
a  bullock  team,  and  asked  the  (lri\er  how  far  it  Avas  to  Clifton's.  He  said 
Ave  were  just  about  half  way  there.  We  felt  as  if  Ave  had  travelled  ten  miles 
and  Avould  like  some  dinner.  We  noticed  tracks  turn  off  into  the  forest,  some 
bridle  tracks  and  others  of  vehicles,  and  Ave  Avondered  A\hat  the  folks  Avere 
doing  in  there.  When  Ave  got  on  a  bit  of  a  rise  and  looked  back  avc  avouUI  see 
the  l)lue  smoke  curling  up  through  the  to])s  of  the  trees  from  some  settler's 
home,  and  at  other  times  Ave  Avould  hear  the  ring  of  the  axe  aAvay  in  the 
distanc<.. 

W'r  jinivcd  at  tiic  half-way  bouse  at  last,  oulv  to  find  dinner  over, 
and  all  we  coidd  get  Avas  some  bread  and  cheese.  Being  thankful  for  any- 
thing, we  took  that,  and  set  out  again,  Avondering  Avhcii  we  Avere  going  to 
see  any  good  l;ind.  We  came  to  Lang  Lang  Lixcr.  and  we  saw  a 
fcAV  tall  liuiii  tree.-,  and  the  land  seemed  a  bit  bcitci-,  but  it  soon  got 
poor  again,  but  in  about  a  couple  of  hours  Ave  reached  the  scrub  land  and 
giant  giiiii  trees,  aufl  knew  we  wei"e  nearing  Poowong.  We  arrived  there  and 
went  to  Mis.  Horsley's,  whcic  \\v  had  Iteen  told  Ave  would  get  a  good  meal, 
and  \\v  were  not  disappointcil.  We  received  eAcry  attention  then  and  many 
times  after  when  ti-a\('lling  ihi'ougli:  the  ordy  (rouble  was  they  could  not 
put  us  u|)  fi)i'  the  night.  Some  of  the  land  surxcyors  had  tea  Avith  us  and 
oHered  to  |tilot  iis  as  far  as  Ah'.  C.  BIcav's.  Avhich  Avas  oiu-  destination;  so  Ave 
left  T^»ow<)IlL'■.  and  had  not  got  faj-  licfore  it  got  dark.  Tiiere  Avas  no  moon, 
but  one  of  onr  guides  had  a  lantern,  and  Avith  this  Ave  got  along  fairly  well. 

Cc)niing  to  Mi-.  Puller's  clearing  Ave  went  through  a  piece  of 
noAvlv-bnrned     scrub — n     bad     burn     at     that — and     our    guides    told    us    to 


im  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

be     .-luv     and     keop    on     onr    feet,    for    if    we    fell    on     one    of    the    hazel 
;;t.iiiups     we     would     lie     slaked.       'Idiey     were    very    .<harp    on     one    edge, 
and    we    w^re    told    that    was   owing   to   the    way   they   cut  the    hazel    scrub. 
I    think    the    next    clearing    was    Pobjoy's,    and    then    we    arrived    at  .Mr. 
Blew'.s.    where    we    received    every   kindnes.s   and  stayed    for  the   night  and 
rested    the    next    day.       On  the  following  day,  Saturday.  ]Mr.  Blew  showed 
us  down  to  Mr.  Glew's  clearing,  where  his  two  sons  and  P.  Neilsen  were  pick- 
ing up  and  bm-ning  off.  and  we  stayed  at  their  camp  over  Sunday.     They 
went  home  on  the  Saturday  night,  and  left  us  in  possession.     We  had  their 
bunks  to  sleep  on  and  all  the  eatables  that  were  left,  and  they  told  us  to 
make  ourselves  at  home,  as  they  Avould  not  be  back  till  Monday  morning; 
but  they  returned  on  Sunday  night,  and  Ave  had  to  turn  out  and  make  our- 
selves as  comfortable  as  we  could  on  the  floor,  which  consisted  of  round  hazel 
sticks.     I  can  tell  you  we  did  not  sleep  much  that  night.    On  ^Monday  morn- 
ing we  ffot  our  flrst  lessons  how  to  make  and  bake  scones  in  a  frying-pan:  one 
of  them  cooking  them  and  the  rest  of  us  eating  the  scones  as  fast  as  cooked. 
They  had  a  novel  way  of  turning  them — just  threw  them  up  and  caught  them 
on  the  other  side.     When  we  had  finished  breakfast  it  was  decided  that  Peter 
Xeilsen  should  show  us  the  land  open  for  selection:  so  we  started  out,  and 
he  told  us  that  Messrs.  Elms,  Parsons.  McLeod  and  himself  were  the  last 
ones  to  a]:i])ly  for  land,  and  we  would  have  to  take  the  next  blocks. 

We  went  along  a  pack  track  for  a  time  and  then  into  the  scrub; 
we  scrambled  for  some  time,  and  then  he  told  us  we  Avere  about  as 
far  as  Elms'  block  would  come  and  Ave  had  better  peg  the  next  one; 
so  we  both  Dut  in  pegs,  but  Avhelher  it  Avas  on  the  land  we  applied 
for  or  not  1  could  not  say.  We  could  see  the  open  country  doAATi 
beloAv  from  one  point  Avhere  we  stood;  so  next  day  Ave  travelled  doAvn 
to  see  what  it  was  like,  and  he  shoAved  us  some  chocolate  soil  which  Ave 
thought  Avas  pretty  good,  but  there  was  no  extent  of  it,  as  we  soon  got  from 
one  .side  to  the  other  and  got  into  some  scrub  Avhich  he  called  "prickly  moses," 
and  nearly  got  lost  in  it.  Our  guide  climbed  a  tree  to  see  the  nearest  way 
out.  I  may  here  say  it  Avas  growing  so  thickly  that  Ave  had  to  tramp  it  down 
to  make  a  track  out.  It  was  a  fairly  Avarm  day.  and  we  Avere  just  about 
knocked  out  Avhen  Ave  got  out  of  it.  We  then  made  for  the  camp,  and  on  our 
Avay  came  across  McLeod  Bros.'  htit  and  Avent  in  and  had  a  feed  of  damper 
and  btitter.  the  only  thing  eatable  in  the  camp.  They  were  all  away  cutting 
scrub  or  picking  up  on  Spring's  selection.  We  got  back  to  the  camp  tired 
out.  and  left  for  Drouin  next  morning. 

We  thought  while  we  Avere  so  far  we  luight  as  Avell  go  otit  to 
Mirboo :  Ave  had  been  in  that  district  once  before,  so  Ave  went  on  to 
Morwell  and  then  out  to  Mr.  Black's  selection  on  the  MorAvell  River, 
where  we  recei\'ed  every  kindness.  They  shoAved  us  some  land  open 
for  .selection,  but  we  thought  it  too  steep,  so  Avent  on  further  south 
through  Mirboo  and  on  to  Marden  to  Mr.  John  Smith's,  and  from  there  to 
the  surveyor's  camp.  We  passed  over  some  splendid  land,  but  it  was  all 
selected,  and  the  surveyors  advised  us  not  to  apply  for  land  there,  as  we 
would  most  likely  be  pushed  out  on  to  poor  country.  So  aac  started  for  home 
again,  going  bv  a  ditferent  road,  and  reaching  Trafalgar  railway  station  the 
same  day.  We  saw  some  splendid  timber  on  the  Avay.  Avhich  was  being 
split  into  broad  palings,  and  carted  to  the  railAA'ay  by  bullock  teams. 

When  we  got  to  Melbourne.  Ave  put  in  our  application  for  the  blocks  at 
Jumbunna   East,  and   after  Avaiting  (ill   the  folloAving  November  we  got   it 


RECOLLETTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  301 

recommended  by  a  Land  Board  held  at  Drouin.  AA'e  tlien  wanted  to  see  Avhat 
the  Land  was  like.  Mr.  W.  J.  Williams,  his  father  and  I  came  down  and 
walked  right  round  about  eig-ht  selections,  which  were  all  good  land  except  a 
few  acres  on  the  south  end  of  two  blocks.  The  next  thing  to  do  Avas  to  get 
some  scrub  cut.  Mr.  Matheson.  my  brother  Jim  and  1  came  down  with 
tents,  axes  and  cooking  utensils  to  make  a  start.  We  got  all  the  information 
we  could  about  cutting  scrub,  which  was  to  start  at  the  lower  end  of  gullies 
and  cut  a  strip  along  both  sides,  and  then  fall  it  from  either  side,  according 
to  which  side  the  Avind  favoured  us;  but  I  may  here  say  that  the  wind  used 
to  come  up  along  the  places  opened  up,  and  blow  the  scrub  back  on  us  at 
times. 

We  got  our  camp  fixed,  and  the  next  thing  Avas  to  see  about  something 
to  eat.  We  had  no  bread;  as  there  were  no  shops  on  the  road  this  side  of 
Drouin.  and  all  being  amateurs  at  cooking  Ave  did  not  get  on  Aery  well  for  a 
start.  We  had  no  OA'en,  but  had  been  told  to  dig  a  round  hole  in  the  ground 
and  pack  AAood  oAcr  it  and  make  a  big  fire  and  burn  it  doAA^n  to  ashes  in  this 
colonial  oven,  and  then  put  our  bread  in  to  bake,  cover  it  over  AA'ith  ashes 
and  pile  on  some  more  Avood  and  leave  it  until  cooked.  The  first  part  Ave 
carried  out,  but  I  am  afraid  if  Ave  had  Avaited  until  the  cooking  part  Avas 
finished  Ave  Avould  have  gone  i^retty  hungry.  In  about  two  hours  Ave  decided 
it  ought  to  be  cooked  and  took  it  out,  but  to  our  dismay  only  the  top  Avas 
broAvn  and  underneath  Avas  just  as  Ave  put  it  in;  the  Avater  had  soaked  into 
the  oven  and  spoiled  the  loaf.  Nothing  daunted,  Ave  ate  Avhat  ap})eared  to 
be  cooked  and  ])lact'd  the  rest  in  the  oven  again,  piled  on  more  Avood  Iavo  or 
three  times  and  then  Avent  to  bed,  dead  beat,  leaving  the  loaf  to  bake  as  best  it 
might,  Avhich  it  did  Avith  a  Aengeance.  for  on  taking  it  out  next  morning  it 
AA'as  so  hard  that  Ave  could  not  cut  it  Avith  a  knife,  but  had  to  chop  it  in 
pieces  Avith  a  tomahaAvk,  and  soak  it  in  our  tea  before  Ave  could  eat  it.  After 
this  Ave  baked  scones  in  the  frying  pan,  Avliich  Avere  much  better,  and  Avhen 
Ave  ran  short  Ave  ahvays  had  plenty  of  rice  and  treacle  to  fall  bade  on. 

A  little  Avhile  after  Mr.  W.  J.  AVilliams  joined  us,  and  he  saitl,  "Why 
not  make  a  damper  T'  He  Avas  sure  he  could,  so  Ave  let  him  try,  and  it  turned 
out  much  better  than  our  first  loaf.  He  was  going  down  to  his  selection  to 
cut  some  scrub,  and  on  the  Monday  following  he  went  away  in  high  spirits  to 
blaze  a  ti-ack  and  clear  a  place  to  camp;  but  wIumi  he  retin-ned  at  night  he 
Avas,  Avhat  you  would  call,  "very  much  down  iii  tlic  mouth."  He  said  he 
arri\e(l  theiv  all  right.  i)Ut  he  did  not  IhinU  a  white  mnii  had  (vver  set  his 
foot  there  before,  and  did  not  think  he  would  camp  down  there:  >o  he  stincd 
with  lis  and  helped  us  to  cut  our  sfiiili.  'I"he  cooking  was  the  worst  item 
with  us;  having  no  oven  to  bake  bread,  we  got  very  tired  of  damper  and 
scones.  J  almost  foi-got  :  we  had  an  oven,  lint  il  was  about  seven  miles  up 
the  track,  and  after  waiting  about  four  week>  for  the  pack  man  (o  bring  it 
along  we  d(H-ided  to  go  foi-  it.  lioi-i-owing  a  horse  from  Mi-.  A.  Kims,  our 
nearest  neighbour.  I  went  to  get  it.  .Vs  1  was  not  much  of  a  jockey,  and  the 
horse  being  given  to  running  aAvay.  I  did  not  know  how  to  get  the  oven  down 
home.  I  first  thought  t,\'  walking  and  cariying  the  oven  and  leading  the 
hor.se,  as  .she  would  not  let  uie  carry  il  on  the  saddle,  but  I  soon  got  tired  of 
that,  so  I  took  the  lid  oil',  hung  the  o\cn  on  my  head,  carried  the  lid  in  one 
hand,  and  after  some  nari-ow  escapes  with  the  oxen  and  myself  J  got  home 
safely.     Needless  to  say,  we  got  on  better  with  our  baking  after  that. 

\W'  cut  aliout  foity  acres  of  scrui>  and  then  went  l)ack  home  for  Xmas. 
AVe  did  not  return  until  the  first  Aveek  in  March,  ami  everybody  told  us  we 
Avould  not  get  a  huin.  but  about  the  ■'•nl  or  -tth  of  March  a  heaA'y  Avind  blew, 


V02  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

ami  we  lired  the  scrub  and  got  a  good  burn.  We  then  built  a  log  hut,  and 
started  picking  up,  using  a  horse  to  pull  the  big  logs  together  and  picking  up 
the  smaller  pieces  ourselves  and  piling  them  in  heaps  to  burn.  We  worked 
at  this  until  ^lay,  and  then  soAved  it  with  grass  seed,  using  cocksfoot  and 
ryegrass  and  red  and  white  clover,  and  then  went  on  and  finished  the  picking 
up.  In  the  Spring  we  had  a  splendid  lot  of  grass,  and  w'e  brought  some 
catth^  from  Ballarat  to  stock  it. 

My  brothers  each  got  50  acres  of  scrub  cut  the  follow'ing  year,  as  did 
also  Air.  AYilliams,  and  got  a  bad  burn.  I  believe  if  anyone  had  come  along 
next  morning  and  said,  ''Here  is  £50  for  your  block  and  what  is  done  on  it," 
I  would  have  gone,  never  to  return,  for  I  don't  believe  there  is  anything  more 
disheartening  than  a  bad  burn. 

After  trying  to  burn  the  patches  Ave  decided  to  get  Avhat  we  could  picked 
up  and  burned  off;  so  we  tried  to  let  it  by  contract,  but  it  was  some  time 
before  anyone  came  to  do  the  w'ork,  and  then  they  would  onl}'  clear  up  to  a 
certain  size,  leaving  the  big  heavy  logs  lying  on  the  ground.  We  got  our 
grass  seed  by  boat  to  Inverloch  this  time,  and  carted  it  to  the  foot  of  the  liills 
below  where  Outtrim  now  is,  or  McLeod's  Hill,  as  it  Avas  then  called,  and 
brought  it  home  on  pack  horses.  I  Avell  remember  coming  up  ]\lcLeod"s  Hill 
one  day  Avith  some  packs,  Avhen  one  of  the  old  horses  broke  through  the 
surface  into  a  billabong,  and  the  more  he  struggled  to  get  out  the  further  he 
got  in,  until  he  was  caught  by  the  two  bags  of  grass  seed,  and  there  was 
nothing  to  be. seen  of  him  but  his  head.  We  thought  if  Ave  took  the  bags  otf 
he  Avould  disappear  altogether,  so  AA'e  decided  to  try  and  get  a  spade  and  dig 
him  out,  but  Avhile  aAvay  looking  for  the  spade  he  struggled  and,  plunged 
about  and  got  his  head  turned  doAvn  hill;  so  Ave  took  the  bags  oil,  and  he  then 
broke  the  ground  aAvay  in  front  of  him  and  struggled  out. 

We  sowed  the  grass  seed  this  time  before  the  picking  up  was  done.  The 
grass  came  away  Avell,  and  then  we  had  to  get  more  stock  to  keep  it  down,  as 
caterpillars  Avere  a  great  pest  in  the  early  days,  and  there  were  no  starlings 
about  then  to  clear  them  off. 

As  my  sister  had  selected,  she  had  to  come  and  reside  somcAvhere  near  the 
block,  so  Ave  set  about  building  a  larger  house.  We  built  it  with  slabs  and 
iron,  and  being  only  amateurs  did  not  get  on  too  Avell,  especially  with  the 
papering.  T  could  not  descril^e  the  first  tAvo  or  three  pieces  we  put  on  the 
ceiling,  or  floor  I  should  say,  as  that  was  Avhere  it  fell  in  one  wet  mass.  I 
think  all  neAv  chums  had  the  same  trouble  with  papering,  but  Ave  eventually 
got  it  finished,  and  Avere  quite  proud  of  our  Avork.  My  sister  came  doAA^n, 
and  1  may  say  that  after  this  things  Avent  on  smoother,  especially  in  the  cook- 
ing line.  We  now  had  to  think  about  getting  the  Avherewithal  to  carry  on ;  so 
we  decided  to  milk  a  few  coavs  and  make  butt^er,  which  Ave  could  send  to  toAvn. 
We  started  Avith  about  half  a  dozen  coavs,  and  got  up  to  tAvelve,  from  Avhich 
we  made  oA^er  120  lbs.  of  butter  per  week.  I  do  not  think  the  quantity  could 
be  surpassed  in  these  days  of  modern  machinery.  We  set  our  milk  in  pans  in 
those  days,  no  separators  being  about,  skimmed  the  cream  oft',  and  churned  it 
into  butter,  wdiich  Ave  put  into  small  barrels  or  firkins.  I  well  remember  the 
first  lot  Ave  sent  away:  we  took  it  to  the  Inlet  to  send  aAvay  by  boat,  but  Avhen 
we  got  there  the  boat  had  not  arrived,  so  the  caretaker  of  the  shed  told  us 
to  place  it  in  the  shed  and  he  Avould  see  it  was  sent  aAvay  when  the  boat 
arrived. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  303 

There  was  no  cool  storage  in  thot^e  days,  at  least  not  at  the  Inlet, 
where  the  only  building  was  of  iron.  Judge  of  our  surprise  about  a  fortnight 
later  to  learn  that  our  butter  was  still  in  this  "cool  room,"  und  that  the  boat 
would  not  !)e  there  for  at  least  a  couple  of  days;  so  we  took  some  more  down 
and  got  the  boat  this  time,  and  got  the  butter  away,  which  arrived  in  jSIel- 
bourne  s'afely:  but  word  came  back  that  most  of  it  was  in  a  liquid  condition: 
but  bad  and  all  as  it  was,  we  received  from  1/-  to  1/1  per  lb.  for  it.  I  do  not 
think  town  folks  were  so  hard  to  please  in  those  days.  The  following  season 
w^e  milked  more  cows  and  had  more  butter;  we  tried  sending  it  away  fresh, 
but  as  soon  as  the  hot  weather  set  in  we  had  to  fall  back  on  the  barrels  again, 
and  sent  it  away  later  on.  But  the  returns  were  not  so  god  this  time,  as  it 
only  realised  id.  per  lb.,  and  as  this  was  not  a  payable  price  we  turned  to 
keeping  a  few  sheep;  but  we  soon  found  this  was  no  better  than  butter,  as 
the  dingoes  got  amongst  them  and  killed  as  many  as  eight  or  nine  in  a  night, 
so  they  soon  ate  up  all  the  profits.  We  fattened  a  few  bullocks  and  got  along 
as'  best  we  could. 

I  forgot  to  mention  earlier  that  we  got  our  letters  once  a  week  when  we 
came  down  first.  If  I  remember  rightly.  Mr.  W.  H.  C.  Holmes  was  the  first 
mailman,  carrying  a  loose-bag  to  McLeod's;  then  Mr.  James  Dixon  got  the 
contract  to  carry  the  mail.  Mr.  T.  Horsley  w^as  the  next  contractor,  and  then 
Mr.  (x.  Matheson.  who  carried  it  until  the  railway  was  opened  to  Korumbnrra. 

While  the  railway  line  was  being  constructed,  we  could  sell  ahuost  any- 
thing in  the  way  of  butter,  eggs,  potatoes  and  vegetables,  l)ut  did  not  always 
get  paid  for  lliem.  We  then  started  dairying  again,  and  about  this  time 
Mr.  Parsons  Ijrought  the  first  sei)arator  into  tlie  district.  It  was  a  bit  of  a 
novelty,  being  nothing  like  our  separators  of  to-day.  The  noise  it  made  re- 
sembled a  threshing  machine  at  work,  and  when  close  to  it  you  could  not 
hear  wdiat  anyone  said  when  speaking  to  you. 

Some  little  time  after  this  a  move  was  made  to  start  a  co-operative  butter 
factory,  and  we  got  the  company  floated  and  built  the  factory  on  Mr.  W. 
Elms'  property  at  Moyarra,  Mi-.  Archer  being  appointed  manager  and  butter- 
maker.  From  this  on  separators  came  into  the  district  fast,  nearly  eveiyltody 
getting  one:  and  for  every  settler  dairying  Ijelorc  this  fully  a  dozen  others 
started.  I  may  state  here  that  most  of  the  cream  sup])ly  came  from  the 
Kongwak  side  on  sledges  and  pack  horses,  (he  roiids  being  loo  Imd  for 
vehicles'.  We  did  not  get  very  high  prices  for  oui-  l)u(ler.  but  they  were  nuich 
bettei-  than  before. 

Abcnit  this  time  I  was  away  from  (iipi)slan(l  for  two  years,  and  while 
I  was  away  coal  was  discovered  on  Mr.  T.  Ilorsley's  selection,  wliich  caused 
some  excitement  amongst  the  settleis.  A  good  seam  of  (^oal  was  found,  and 
a  company  was  formed  to  mine  and  market  the  coal,  and  is  still  woi-king  to 
this  day.  A  little  later  coal  uas  found  on  Mr.  M.  McLeod's  laud,  where  the 
Outli'im  Coal  Co.  is  still  working.  A  lot  of  mining  si)ecida(o!'s  came  altout 
and  pegged  out  most  of  the  land  close  ,ii  hand,  and  ai)plied  for  mining 
leases.  As  my  selectum  joined  McLeod's  on  the  west  side,  one  of  the  specula- 
tors applied  for  a  lease  and  fortned  a  company  to  work  the  coal  under  the 
name  of  the  llowitt  Co.,  aiul  to  com|)eusate  me  for  any  damage  done  olfered 
me  a  royalty  'ui  all  coal  won:  but  when  they  went  to  the  Mines  Department 
with  the  agreement  the  Minister  of  Mines  would  not  grant  them  a  lease  with 
the  loyalty  clause  in  it.  Sf)  they  had  to  arrange  with  me  in  some  other  way, 
and  after  iiegul  iat  iiig  for  some  time  one  of  the  directors  bought    me  out.  and 


304  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXFERIENCES. 

1  may  say  that  tian>aciioii  put  me  on  luy  feet  financially.  I  then  had  to 
look  siboiit  for  anotlier  home,  and  there  being  plenty  of  places  for  sale  at  the 
time  I  travelled  about  a  bit,  but  saw  nothing  I  liked  better  than  around 
Moyarra.  and  as  Mr.  John  Gannon's  selection  was  for  s'ale  I  decided  to  pur- 
chase it.  AVe  then  l)uilt  a  house  and  moved  from  the  old  home  in  September, 
1897.  and  had  only  just  got  settled  when  in  the  year  1898  we  had  the  big 
fires  which  burned  around  the  district  for  about  six  weeks  and  finished  up 
on  what  is  known  as  "Eed  Tuesday."  when  everywhere  around  for  miles 
was  black  and  desolate.  We  were  more  fortunate  than  some  of  our  neigh- 
bours, as  we  did  not  get  any  of  our  buildings  burned,  but  only  lost  some 
fencing  and  a  few  head  of  cattle.  Our  old  homestead,  from  which  we  had 
only  mo^  ed  a  few  months,  was  burned  to  the  ground ;  only  one  little  log  hut, 
a  few  fruit  trees  and  a  brick  chimney  were  left  to  mark  the  spot.  The  fire 
gave  most  of  the  settlers  a  hard  knock  at  the  time,  but  after  a  year  or  two 
things  began  to  improve  again,  and  we  have  seen  many  fine  homesteads  s'pring 
up  in  place  of  the  old  ones  which  were  destroyed  by  the  fire. 

We.  like  others,  had  our  trials  and  sorrows,  but  on  the  whole,  rough  and 
all  as  it  was  at  first,  we  have  had  a  very  happy  time. 


A   Fiery   Summer. 

MR.  A.  W.  ELMS. 

The  mojiths  of  January  and  February.  1898.  will  never  be  forgotten  1)V 
the  pioneers  of  South  (lippsland.  It  was  a  time  of  trial,  loss,  and  mental 
strain  such  as  the  district  never  experienced  before,  and  which,  it  is  hoped, 
will  never  occur  again. 

The  Summer  of  181)7-98  Avas  dry  and  hot,  the  Melbourne  Observatory 
records  showing  that  high  temperatures  were  registered  right  through  froiii 
early  in  Xoveml)er.  as  the  following  figures  show: — 

Deg.  Deg.  Deg. 

^ov.  10 91.7  Dec.  2-2 96.1  Jan.  11 109.2 

••     11 ^^2.?,  „  26 91.7  .,  12 10r).5 

»     15 91.5  „  27 lOl.r,  18 91.1 

.,     16 91.9  „  29 101.6  „  24 98.5 

V     19 99.0  ..  30 107.0  „  28 100.5 

I>ec.     1 101.9  „  81 98.4  „  29 106.7 

»       7 90.9  Jan.  7 101.7  „  30 102.3 

,,     12 92.8  .,  10 92.5  „  31 100.0 

.,     16 107.0 

N-o  rain  fell  from  Jan.  1st  to  Jan.  22nd.  m  hen  a  slight  fall  of  2>s  points 
was'  recorded,  and  for  the  whole  month  the  record  was  onlv  30  points— 
practically  nothing  in  the  face  of  this  continuous  heat.  Fromtiie  beginning 
of  the  year  there  were  reports  from  various  i)arts  of  the  State  of  l)ush  Hivs. 
Avhich  in  oi-diuai-y  years  would  l)e  thought  serious  enough,  but  they  were 
soon  er-lipsed  and  almosi   forgotten   in   view  of  what  occurred  later. 

On  January  13tli  the  news))apers  came  out  witji  lai-ge  headings — "(Jreat 
Heat  \Vave— Iligl.ot  Record  for  16  Y'ears— 109.5  in  the  Shade.''  This  heat, 
following  on  the  (hyness  caused  by  the  hot  early  Summer,  started  sei-ious 
fires  all  through  (iippsland.  On  the  following  day.  the  headings  were  still 
more  startling:  -riushlii-es  in  (npjjsland — Seridus  I)evastati(m — Settlers 
Burnt  Out — Mi(l(hi\-  Dai-kiiess.""  Ifeports  of  sei'ious  fii-es  came  in  from 
places  as  far  a])art  as  \'inrani.  Moe.  U'ai-ragul.  Leongatha.  Koruuiburra  and 
Moi-M-ell,  and  special  repoi'ters  were  sent  to  the  vaiious  cculrcs.  W'ariagiil 
and  Thorpdale  were  the  districts  that  sullered  most  at  thi-  tiuic.  and  the 
repoi-ts  sent  \u  wei'e  most  appalling.  The  (lies  contitiued  to  rage  until 
January  22n(l.  when  iIk  ic  wa^  a  hill  in  the  high  (cuipcrat  urc.  and  a  few 
points  of  rain  fell,  but  not  enough  to  niDislcn  (he  parched  ground.  Towards 
the  end  of  the  month  the  heat  increased  again,  and  on  Monday,  .lainiary  31st. 
the  papers  repoi-t :  'Tlot  Weather — Two  More  Scorching  Days— Tempera- 
tures: Friday.  100.5:  Saturday.  106.7:  Sunday.  102.3-  Hush"  Fires  Again 
Raging."  On  the  following  Wednesday  the  headings  state:  "Another  Hot 
Day — A  Record  Fstablished — \o  Change  in  Sight":  and  then  they  state: 
"The  ai-chives  of  the  observatory  recoi-d  lu)  ])I•e^•ious  occasion  on  which  the 
sun  has  beaten  down  in  such  relentless  fury  as  it  has  done  since  the  clo.se  of 
last  week.     For  four  days  in  succession  llic  tcuipciat  ui'c  e.\ce('<led  the  centui-y, 


A    FIERY    SUMMER.  307 

and  on  the  fifth  day  it  onlj^  missed  it  by  three-tenths  of  an  inch.  The  record 
is  broken,  not  only  for  duration  of  extreme  heat,  but  also  in  the  matter  of 
a  genei'aliy  hot  January.'"  This  fierce  heat  occasioned  further  outbreaks  of 
the  bush  fires  all  over  (rippsland.  and,  day  by  day,  heartrending  accounts 
were  published  of  the  sutierings  of  the  settlers,  losses  of  stock,  and  general 
devastation.  From  Drouin  to  Yarram.  a  distance  of  TO  miles  in  one  direc- 
tion, and  from  Leongatha  to  Neerim,  about  40  miles  in  another,  hardh'  a 
settler  escaped  wholly  without  loss.  The  fires  continued  with  unabated  fury 
until  L'ebruary  i'ith,  when  some  rain  fell  and  checked  their  severity,  after 
which   rhe  fires  gradually  subsided  as  the  Autunm  came  on. 

To  realise  the  fires,  one  must  understand  what  the  scrub  was  and  the 
process  of  clearing  it.     There  were  three  layers  of  vegetation :  first,  the  giant 
trees  and  saplings  rising  to  a  height   of   150  to  200  feet,   with  their   leafy 
branches    foi'ming   a    screen   for   the   s'unlight.     Underneath,   in  the   partial 
shade,   grew    a    second    tier,   consisting   of   blackwoods,   hazels,   wattles,  etc., 
reaching  to  a  height  of  20  to  80  feet,  and,  under  those  again,  grew  smaller 
shrubs,  such  as  the  musk,  ferns,  swordgrass  and  a  tangle  of  small  under- 
growth, Avitli  fallen  timber  lying  through  it  in  all  directions.     The  process 
of   clearing  consists   in   felling   the   smaller   vegetation   and   ringbarking   or 
sap-ringing    the     larger     trees,     to    kill     them,     and     get     the     leaves     and 
bark    to    fall,    before    burning    off    the    scrub.         In    the    Summer,    on    the 
hottest    day    available,    and,    if    possible,    with    a     strong    wind    blowing, 
the     fallen     scrub     is     set     on     fire,     and      if     the     burn     is     a     good     one, 
the    fire    burns    up    all    leaves    and    small     timber,   leaving  only   the   large 
saplings  to  be  ])icked  up  and  burnt  off.     In  the  earlier  stages  of  pioneering 
these  scrub  burns  could  be  fired  without  any  danger  of  the  fire  spreading,  as 
the  surrounding  green  scrub  cheeked  the  fire  in  a  very  s'hort  distance;  but  as 
the  clearings  extended  and  the  trees  left  standing  got  dry  and  wind-cracked 
the  danger  increased.     But  a  good  burn  meant  so  nuich  to  the  .settler,  and, 
being  accustomed  to  a  moist  Summer  climate,  where  often  a  year's  work  was 
practically  lost  through  rain  preventing  the  fallen  scrub  being  burnt  at  all, 
the  settlers  usually  took  advantage  of  a  good  opportunity  for  a  burn,  and 
risked   the   danger  of  burning  out   themselves   as   well   as  Jheir   neighbours. 
Once  started,  theie  was  no  control  over  the  fire,  which  might  bmn  for  weeks 
in  trees  and  hollow  logs,  ready  to  spread  afresh  with  wind  oi-  hot   weather. 
Given   favourable  conditions,  the  tlanres  rush   up  the  stems  of  t!u'  tall  trees 
with  a   roar  that  can  be  heard  a   mile  away,  with  sheets  of  llame  20  to  ;}() 
feet    high,   and   dense   volumes   of   smoke    rising   hundreds   of    feet.     Making 
its  own   di-aught,  it   ru.shes  through   tli(>  trees,  .-starting  fresh   fires  hundreds 
of  yards  ;dicad  with  llic  ashes  and  burniiiu  IV;it;nienls  it  showers  in  advance. 
\yhen   it   has   passed,   it   leaves'  behind    it    a    forest   of  charred   and   smoking 
timber  blazing  fVom   top   to  Imttom.   and   showering  sjjarks  and   a.shes  over 
everything,    while   the   ground    i-   littered    with   bla/ing  logs   from  the  trees, 
Avhich  are  coiilinually    falling  with   a   noise  like  thundei-.     To  one  behind   it 
and   disinterested,   it    is  a    niagniliceiit   s])ectacle :   the  roaring  liiv.  constantly 
changing  its  foi-m  and  brightness,  the  (lames  reaching  up  and  then  subsiding., 
the  Aasl  columns  of  smoke,  ever  changing  in  outline  and  colour,  lit  up  bv  the 
glow    beneath,   the   trees   and   logs,  all   aglow    and   (|uivei-ing   with   heal    an<l 
flame,   and    sending  ishowers   of  sparks    jilce    lieiy   serpents   through    the   air. 
Avhile   trees   and    branches   continually    falling   like    lieiv    avalanches,    with    a 
noise  like  thtmder.  and  .s'ending  up  as  they  reach  the  ground  further  columns 
of  smoke,  ashes  and   flame,  all  combine  to  make  a  spectacle  that,  once  .seen, 
could   ne\ei'  be  foiii'otten. 


308  A    FIERY    SUMMER. 

The  settlers,  whose  houses  were  built  in  the  midst  of  the  gigantic  trees, 
anil  whose  only  means  of  escape  was  a  track  cut  through  the  bush  and  liable 
at  any  time  to  be  closed  by  falling  trees,  had  no  means  of  escape.  The  fire 
was  both  around  and  above  them,  and.  once  it  started  travelling  through  the 
tree  tops  there  was  no  possibility  of  coping  with  it.  Live  stock  had  to  take 
their  chance,  and  the  only  hope  for  the  settler  and  his  family  was  to  shelter 
in  n  culti\ation  paddock,  a  waterhole  or  the  excavation  made  by  an  uprooted 
tree.  INIany  had  run  short  of  water  during  the  long  dry  Summer,  and  then 
nothing  could  be  done  but  watch  the  flames  consume  everything.  The  air 
was  heated  like  a  furnace,  and  the  blinding  and  suffocating  smoke  prevented 
one  getting  any  idea  of  v\hat  was  occurring  a  short  distance  away.  In  some 
cases  the  fii'e  rushed  on  the  settlers  without  any  warning,  while  others  were 
burnt  out  after  days,  or  even  weeks,  of  anxious  watching,  dreading  the  heat 
of  each  succeeding  day,  and  the  wind,  that  generally  increased  as  the  sun 
got  power,  and  then  died  away  as'  evening  came  on,  and  looking  round  each 
night  to  tell  by  the  glare  in  the  sky  in  which  direction  the  fires  were  spread- 
ing. Then,  as  the  fire  came  closer,  a  desperate  fight,  sometimes  lasting  day 
and  night,  would  take  place,  with  the  hope  that,  if  the  fire  were  delayed,  a 
change  of  wind  or  weather  Avould  remove  the  danger.  In  most  cases,  how- 
ever, the  firo  eventually  prevailed,  and  the  Avorn-out  and  half-blinded  settler 
could  do  little  more  than  look  after  his  own  safety  and  that  of  his  family. 
Many  acts  of  heroism  were  performed,  in  riding  through  the  burning  bush 
to  help  neighbours,  and  in  removing  invalids'  or  elderly  people  to  a  place 
of  safety.  In  many  cases,  people  sacrificed  their  own  homes  in  a.  very  often, 
vain  attempt  to  save  a  friend's  place.  Some  removed  furniture  from  houses 
to  cultivation  paddocks,  in  the  hope  of  saving  it.  if  the  house  Avere  burnt. 
Sometimes  the  furniture  was'  burnt  and  the  house  saved.  In  other  cases  both 
were  Imrnt.  The  live  stock  suffered  severely.  Driven  by  smoke  and  flame, 
cattle,  horses,  and  sheep  travelled  until  penned  up  in  the  corner  of  a  paddock; 
then  the  flames  would  surround  them.  and.  bewildered  by  smoke  and  flame, 
they  perished.  Fowls,  dogs  and  pigs  around  the  homesteads  were,  as  a  rule, 
too   dazed  to   attempt  -to  escape. 

When  the  fires  had,  at  length,  passed  over,  Gippsland  was  left  a 
blackened  Avaste,  littered  with  fallen  timber,  practically  destitute  of  houses, 
fences',  grass  or  fodder,  and  with  burnt  bodies  of  stock,  lying,  sometimes 
singly,  and  at  other  times  in  scores,  where  the  fire  had  overtaken  them. 
Hundreds  of  livestock  of  all  descriptions  were  wandering  about :  some  blind, 
others  with  hides  or  wool  burnt,  others  again  with  hoofs  nearly  burnt  off. 
In  the  worst  cases  a  merciful  bullet  put  an  end  to  their  sufferings. 

It  speaks  highly  for  the  courage  of  the  Gippsland  settlers  that,  without 
any  hesitation,  they  set  to  work  at  once  to  repair  the  damage  d<me  by  this 
overwhelming  disaster.  Missing  stock  had  to  be  rounded  up.  temporary 
fences  erected,  and  a  shelter  of  some  kind  made,  to  last  until  a  house  could 
be  built.  As  soon  as  possible,  all  stock  fit  for  market  Avere  sent  off,  others 
were  taken  away  for  grass  and  fodder  ))urchased  to  keep  others  alive. 
Luckily,  a  mild  AVinter  folloAved.  and  the  grass  groAving  Avell  after  the 
Autunm  rains  relieved  the  situation. 

The  confidence  the  people  had  in  the  district  Avas  shoAvn  by  the  good 
houses  and  substantial  improvements  made  to  replace  those  destroyed.  Those 
living  in  toAvns  did  not  escape  Avithout  anxiety  and  loss.  Some  toAvns  Avere 
threatened  time  after  time  by  fires  coming  from  different  directions  as  the 
Avind   changed,  and  other   ioAvns  Avere  almost  totally  destroyed.     The  great 


A    FIERY    SUMMER.  309 

scarcity  of  water  throughout  the  district  increased  the  difficulty  of  saving 
property,  and  added  to  the  sutlerings'  of  all.  Water  in  overground  tanks 
was  so  impregnated  with  smoke  as  to  be  almost  unfit  to  drink. 

A  record  of  the  districts  affected  day  by  da3%  and  a  few  typical  instances 
taken  from  the  newspapers  of  the  time,  will  help  to  convey  an  idea  of  the 
magnitude  and  intensity  of  the  disaster.  It  would  be  impossible  to  give  a 
detailed  account  of  it,  and  the  incidents  given  must  be  taken  as'  typical  of 
hundreds  of  similar  cases. 

The  year  1897  closed  with  several  daj's  of  intense  heat,  and  the  Xew 
Year  was  ushered  in  by  reports  of  extensive  fires  in  the  Morwell,  Leongatha. 
Bena  and  Foster  districts.  AA'ithin  the  next  feAv  days  there  was'  a  lull  in  the 
outbreaks,  but  a  fresh  burst  of  heat  succeeded,  and  Drouin,  AVarragul,  Xeerim 
and  Koi'umburra  i-eport  disastrous'  fires,  and  many  settlers  burnt  out. 

Jan.  13th. — Fires  at  Yarram.  Warragul,  Moe,  Leongatha,  Korumbui-ra 
and  Morwell.  At  Traralgon  the  day  recalled  Black  Thursday.  At  Stratford 
the  lamps  had  to  be  lit  at  3  o'clock,  and  the  fowls  went  to  roost,  thinking 
night  had  come.  The  town  of  Yarram  was  encircled  with  flames.  Loch 
reports:  '"Thousands  of  acres  of  grass  and  miles  of  fencing  liave  l)een 
destroyed  by  the  fires  this  week." 

Jan.  1-tth. — Fires  at  "\A'arragul,  Thorpdale,  Morwell,  Foster;  Neerim 
township  destroyed,  only  a  fowlhouse  being  left  standing.  Thor])dale  re- 
ports: ''Thirty-three  houses  destroyed."  Morwell  states  over  '20  houses,  two 
sawmills,  haystacks,  outlmildings,  cattle,  pigs.  etc..  destroyed.  Foster.  Jin- 
divick  and  Traralgon  all  report  many  settlers  burnt  out. 

Jan.  1  Tth. — Korumburra.  Foster.  Kongwak  report  extensive  fires.  War- 
ragul states  that  incessant  vigilance  is  required  to  save  the  town.  Thorjidale 
states  that:  "AVith  probably  three  exceptions,  every  settler  has  had  his  fences, 
hay  and  grass  swept  away,  and  a  portion  of  his  milking  herd  killed.  In 
riding  past  the  farms  one  can  see  the  cattle  waiulering  over  the  potato  |)ad- 
docks  trying  to  find  a  few  stalks  that  had  previously  es'cai)ed  their  observa- 
tion, or  they  are  fretting  among  the  orchards  trying  to  reach  the  branches 
not  already  eaten  oti'.  Farmers  are  too  dazed  with  the  suddenness  and  com- 
pleteness of  the  calamity  wliich  has  befallen  them  to  ha\e  devised,  up  to  the 
present,  any  means  of  sa\ing  the  i-euuiant  of  theii-  stock.  Selector^  who  ai'e 
so  fortunate  as  to  have  theii-  homesteads  still  standing  ha\e  some  of  tlieii' 
burnt-out  neighboui's  cami)ing  with  them,  and  those  unfoi-tunate  jx'ople. 
when  spoken  to,  can  (mly  talk  of  the  gratitude  they  feel  in  having  saved 
their  childi-en.  People  who  ha\e  not  lost  evei-ything  regard  themselves  as 
lucky.  On  every  hand  tliei-e  is  nothing  bnt  black  ruin,  grim  and  hoi)eless. 
A  inf)ntli  ago  thei-e  was  no  more  prospei-f)ws  and  contented  dairying  district 
in  Victoi-ia.  To-day  thei-e  is  nothing  bnt  want  ami  misery.  Fxcept  for  the 
tall,  gaunt  ti-ee-stems.  chari'ed  from  i"oot  to  crown,  the  face  of  (lie  conntry 
for  miles  round  has  l)een  swej)t  so  clean  that  one  would  think  a  blade  of 
grass  had  nevei-  grown  on  it.  Of  the  homesteads  only  the  chinuieys  i-emain. 
like  tombstones  in  a  cemetery.  Here  and  there  lie  the  fri/zled  uj)  bodies 
of  once  valuable  cattle,  pigs  and  poultry.  At  one  homestead  may  be  seen 
all  that  is  left  of  a  horse  and  dray.  The  ])oor  beast  had  been  yoked  up  to 
assist  the  family  flight  when  the  fire  canie.  As  the  heat  came  dowi;  on  il  the 
horse  had  iuin])ed  foi'ward  into  the  fence  to  which  it  had  been  secured,  and 
there  it  was  held  fast  until  its  life  was  bni-nt  out.  and  the  tyivs  and  bolts 
are  all   tliat    i>  left   of  the  dray.      .\t  .'inollier  |)lace  a    poor  collie  dog  was  left 


3ro  A     FIERY    SUMMER. 

on  tho  I'hniu.  havinjz  l)een  overlooked  by  the  family  in  its  fliirht.  and,  when 
1  passed  that  way,  all  that  was  left  of  the  faithful  creature  was  barely  suffi- 
cient to  indicate  its  breed.  At  Jindivick,  one  settler,  after  fighting  the  fire 
for  three  weeks,  and  beating  it  back  on  two  occasions,  after  doing  consider- 
able damage,  was  overijowered  by  the  fire,  which  swept  off  the  dwelling 
house  and  other  buihlings." 

Jan.  ISth. — Meetings  held  in  Melbourne  to  provide  relief  funds  for 
bui-nt-out  settlers.     The  (yovernment  sending  tents  for  the  homeless. 

Jan.  19th. — Fresh  outbreaks  at  AYarragul  and  Drouin.  A  man  is  re- 
])orted  to  have  had  to  run  four  miles  before  reaching  a  place  of  safety. 

Jan.  20th. — Fires  at  Warragul,  Xeerim,  Leongatha  and  Inverloch.  The 
town  of  Koi-umburra  thieatened,  and  nearly  all  the  roads  impassable  through 
smoke,  heat  and  falling  trees. 

Jan.  '2-2nd. — A  slight  fall  of  rain,  28  points,  the  first  foi-  the  month. 

Jan.  81st. — Bush  fires  again  raging.  The  town  of  Leongatha  in  danger, 
100  men  watchinir.  Outbreak  at  Warragul.  More  s'corchiuir  davs:  Friday, 
100.5;  Saturday,  i06.7;  Sunday.  102.3. 

Feb.  1st. — (rreat  heat  wave.  Another  oppressive  day.  Fires  at  Drouin, 
Traralgon.  Walhalla  and  A\'arragul.  Dense  haze  on  the  coast.  Difficulties  of 
navigation.  ''The  smoke  of  bush  fires  was  most  unpleasantly  manifested 
along  the  Victorian  coast  on  Sunday  evening,  but  yesterday  morning  it  be- 
came so  dense  that  the  movements  of  shipping  were  at  an  absolute  standstill. 
Reports  from  Cape  Schanck  and  Ou.eenscliff  stated  that  a  numlier  of  steam- 
ships were  continually  blowing  their  Avhistles.  but  whether  they  were  inward 
or  oi;tAvard  bound  could  not  be  distinguished.  F02:  signals  Avere  continuously 
sent  up  all  day  by  the  Gellibrand  lightship  as  a  guide  to  vessels.  As  illus- 
trating the  density  of  the  smoke,  two  vess'els  took  nearly  seven  hours  to  make 
the  distance  from  the  heads  to  Hobson's  Bay,  Avhich  usually  occupies  a])out 
2^  hours."  More  destruction  is  reported  from  Yarram.  Korumburra  states 
the  country  between  there  and  Outtrim  is  nblaze.  and  travellers  could  not 
ride  along  the  roads. 

Feb.  2nd.— Warragul  and  Drouin  again  menaced.  The  Leongatha 
Labour  Colony  practically  destroyed.  Sheds,  machinery  and  crops  burnt : 
100  pigs  roasted  alive.  Jumbunna  in  danger.  The  streets  fidl  of  furniture 
removed  from  the  houses.  AYater  taken  by  train  from  Korumburra.  Settlers 
removing  their  families  into  the  township  for  safety.  Korumburra  reports 
that  at  4  o'clock  it  Avas  impossible  to  see  10  yai'ds:  all  business  ]ilaces  had 
lights  burning  at  that  hour.  No  one  ever  remembers  seeing  anything  ap- 
proaching the  fires  of  to-day.  Farmers  are  sending  into  the  town  for  men 
to  go  out  and  try  and  save  their  homesteads.  Many  of  them  have  not  had 
their  clothes  off  for  three  or  four  days'.  Warragul  "reports  the  town  in  im- 
minent danger.  South  Warragul  residents  are  hemmed  in  with  fire.  Drouin 
IS  in  a  semi-circle  of  fire,  and  the  whole  country  is  aVdaze.  Many  homes  are 
de.stroyed. 

Feb.  3rd. — At  Warragul,  business  was  entirely  suspended.  At  North 
Poowong  fighting  the  fire  Avas  hopeless;  personal  safety  Avas  all  one  could 
think  of.  Ten  houses  Avere  destroyed,  (^ne  family  took  refuse  for  the  nidit 
in  a  waterhole,  u]5  to  their  necks  in  water.  Others  took  refuire  in  a  depres- 
sion of  the  ground  cau.-^ed  by  a  tree  uprooting,  and  covered  themselves  Avith 


A    FIERY    SUMMER.  311 

Avet  sacks.  A\hich  they  resonked  tVoiii  lime  to  time.  Some  were  blinded  with 
smoke  and  ghire,  and  had  to  be  led  about  next  mornin<r  with  their  iaees 
scorched  and  blistered  with  the  heat.  The  Danish  settlement  at  Poowong 
East,  an  old  established  community.  Avas  also  burnt  right  out.  Within  a  dis- 
tance of  seven  miles  along  McDonald's  Track  20  settlers  were  burnt  out  of 
house  and  everything  they  possessed.  Other  serious  lires  were  reported  fi-om 
Poowong,  Neerim  S.,  Leongatha  and  Mardan.  The  niovtnients  of  shipping 
were  paralysed  on  account  of  the  smoke.  Korumburra  reports:  "South 
Gippsland  is'  red  eyed  and  heartbroken.  There  is  not  a  man,  woman  or  child 
in  the  Avhole  forest  country  Avho  is  not.  more  or  less,  blinded  by  the  smoke, 
unci  there  are  hundreds  who  are  homeless.  As  the  day  wears  on.  they  are 
coming  from  the  back  coujitry  into  the  town,  and  more  pitiable  spectacles 
could  scarcely  be  imagined.  With  ej'es  bandaged,  hands  burned,  clothes 
torn  and  dirt  grimed,  they  straggle  in.  and  though  there  are  kindly  wel- 
comes from  the  townsfolk,  there  is'  that  in  their  faces  which  tells  of  Tues- 
day's tragic  experiences." 

P^eb.  4:th. — Warragul  states:  "Heartrending  is  the  only  word  which  can 
adequately  describe  the  terrible  situation  of  those  unfortunate  people  who 
haAe  been  subjected  to  the  full  blast  of  the  fearful  bushfire  in  this  neigh- 
bourhood. One  after  another  the  settlers,  burnt  out  of  house  and  home,  wend 
their  way  into  the  township  to  relate  their  tales  of  suffering  antl  woe.  Not 
only  women  and  children,  but  strong  men,  weep  at  the  recital  of  their  terrible 
experiences.  One  instance  is  related  of  a  man  and  his  Avife  and  nine  children. 
The  fire  came  down  on  the  house,  and.  utterly  unable  to  cope  Avith  the  liames, 
they  concluded  their  only  chance  of  saving  their  lives  Avas  to  flee  to  a  house 
about  half  a  mile  aAvay.  Placing  the  younger  chilren  on  a  horse,  they  led 
them  tjirough  the  bush,  Avhile  the  house,  outbuildings  and  stacks  they  had 
left  Avere  reduced  t<>  ashes'.  They  liad  scarcely  time  to  recover  from  their 
fright  when  they  saAv  the  fire  bearing  doAvn  on  their  host's  property.  Be- 
coming alarmed,  and  seeing  they  Avould  be  unable  to  stem  the  fierce 
onslaught  of  the  fire,  the  tAvo  families  joined  issue,  and  decided  to  retreat 
still  fui-ther.  Securing  another  horse,  the  additional  children  wen'  ui(»unted 
on  it,  and  the  com])osite  party  fled  for  their  lives  to  another  neighboui-'s 
house  about  a  mile  fui'ther  on.  The  joui'uey  through  the  heat  was  tei'i'ible, 
the  children  crying  with  fright  and  the  pain  aiul  suffocation  caused  ])y  the 
blinding  smoke.  At  last  the  miserable  Avayfarers  thought  they  were  safe 
and  sank  down  to  get  a  little  rest.  Avhen  with  relentless  fuiy  the  fire  i)ursued 
them  again.  sAveeping  through  the  trees  and  undergi'owth.  and  roai'ing  like  a 
tornado.  Pefoi'c  the  childi'cii  could  be  gathered  together  and  remounted  on 
the  horses  the  fii'c  avms  on  them.  A  fi-ightful  scene  ensued,  the  Avomen.  fight- 
ing des))eralely  foi-  theii-  families.  sti'ijijK'd  off  theii-  skirts  to  beat  out  the 
rushing  fii-e  and  save  their  childicn  from  being  burnt  to  death,  and  at  length, 
after  a  desperate  struggle,  in  which  many  of  them  i-eceived  severe  burns,  (hey 
succeeded  in  getting  most  of  the  cliihbcn  mounted  and  once  more  on  (he  iv- 
treat.  Woi-n  out  and  nearly  fainting  with  thcii-  fearful  expciiences.  the  band 
of  refugees  then  made  for  the  house  of  another  faiiner.  and  after  an  aiduous 
journey  they  reached  the  place,  more  dead  than  alive.  It  seem's  almost  in- 
credible, but  they  had  no  sooner  explained  the  situation  than  their  i-elenlless' 
^nemy  closed  in  on  them  again.  Driven  to  distraction,  the  four  families, 
containing  now  "24  young  childien.  mounted  on  hoi'ses.  again  set  foi-th  on  a 
perilous  journey,  aful.  aftei-  sufl'ei'ing  in(lescj-il)al)le  hai'dship  fi-f)m  the  fierce 
lieat  an(l  driving  smoke,  ultimalelv  i-eached  another  hojuestead,  Avhere  at 
length  they  Avere  alloAAed  to  rest.  The  persecuting  fii-es.  veering  in  their 
course  Avith  a  change  of  Avind.  passed  by.  leM\ing  the  house,  now  sheltering 


31_>  A    FIERY    SUMMER. 

ovei-  :i.">  lefugeos.  unmolested.  At  another  place,  at  a  State  school  cut  off  by 
the  tire  in  the  afternoon,  20  children  sheltered  all  night  in  the  hole  ex- 
cavated bv  an  uprooted  tree,  until  rescued  next  morning  by  their  anxious 
parents.  At  Poowong.  buggies,  pianos,  tables  and  furniture  were  stacked  on 
the  bare  road  to  give  them  a  chance  of  escape.  From  there  to  Alambee,  a 
distance  of  15  miles,  34  families  have  been  burnt  out.  Many  of  them  had 
been  up  night  and  day.  exjjecting  an  attack,  which,  when  it  did  come,  ran 
like  gunj^owder.  and  the  position  of  all  human  beings  in  its  course  was  one  of 
extreme  peril.  Some  took  refuge  in  green  potato  crops.  In  one  case,  some 
horses,  whose  instinct  in  the  hour  of  danger  taught  them  to  keep  with  human 
beings,  sheltered  behind  a  picket  fence,  and  the  family  sheltered  under  their 
bodies  from  the  rain  of  sparks  and  cinders.  In  another  case  some  dogs  took 
shelter  beneath  a  barn,  and  nothing  was  left  but  their  charred  skeletons." 

Drouin  reports:  "All  through  the  district  cattle  are  roaming  through 
different  owners*  maize  plots,  and  there  are  no  fences  complete  on  any  farms. 
Cowsheds  and  barns  are  burnt,  and  no  gra.ss  is  to  be  seen.  Men  are  sleeping 
at  night  on  bags,  in  the  green  maize  plots,  and  everyone  is  semi-blind,  and 
apparently  stupefied  with  the  disaster.  Invalids,  elderly  and  delicate  persons 
have  had  a  teri-ible  time,  being  carried  in  some  instances  on  .stretchers,  and 
in  others  on  sledges  to  a  place  of  safet3^" 

Korumburra  reports:  "The  damage  done  in  South  Gippsland  cannot  easily 
be  estimated,  and  ab.solutely  the  only  gratifying  feature  is  that  the  pluck  of 
the  people  still  stands  the  strain.  Here  in  Korumburra,  with  fire  raging  all 
round,  and  the  town  covered  with  a  mantle  of  smoke  which  is  almost  suffocat- 
ing, the  kind-hearted  people  are  housing  and  feeding  scores  of  families, 
whose  only  property  in  the  world,  after  years  of  battling  with  the  virgin 
forest,  are  a  few  remnants  of  clothing.  People  who  walk  the  paved  streets 
or  ride  in  trams  or  trains  cannot  appreciate  the  terrible  calamity  which  has 
befallen  this  province.  There  are  those  who  say  that  the  clearing  which 
Nature  has  her.self  undertaken  will  be  invaluable.  To  the  country  at  large, 
douljtless  it  will  mean  much,  and  it  would  mean  more  if  no  stock  or  homesteads 
had  been  destroA'ed.  But,  to  those  who  suddenly  find  themselves  at  the  age  of 
50.  60  or  70  yeary  set  back  wor.se  than  when  they  commenced  "20  years  ago 
there  is  nothing  in  the  fire  but  the  direst  misfortune.  Instances  are  given  of 
families  sheltered  under  blankets  with  water  poured  over  them,  and  of  others 
sheltering  in  wells  to  save  their  lives.  A  ca.se  is  mentioned  of  six  horses  being 
crushed  by  a  falling  tree,  .50  cows  being  destroyed  in  one  place,  and  100  sheep 
in  another,  horses  Avandering  about  with  manes  and  tails  burnt  off,  and 
.scorched  all  over.'" 

Warragul  reports:  "Fifty  homesteads  have  been  destroyed  in  the 
Strzelecki  ranges,  and  thousands  of  acres  of  grass  destroyed.  One  settler 
had  100  head  of  dairy  cattle  roasted.  Families  were  driven  from  burning 
houses  into  maize  crops,  where  the  smoke  would  have  suffocated  them  but 
for  the  precaution  of  lying  flat  on  the  ground  to  breathe,  while  men  beat 
out  the  flames  as  they  crept  up.  At  Allambee.  it  is  stated,  the  whole  of  the 
country  is  bestrewn  with  the  carcases  of  roasted  cattle  and  sheep,  and  the 
stench  is  something  abominable.  Four  young  children  came  into  a  toAvnship 
with  a  message.  'If  you  please,  mother  says  will  you  take  care  of  us  to-night, 
as  she  expects  to  be  burnt  out  before  morning.' " 

Leoncratha  reports  similar  tales  of  distress,  families  spending  the  night 
on  ground  the  fii-e  had  passed  over. 


A    FIERY    SUMMER.  313 

Xeerim  describes  the  country  as  a  sight  of  desolation,  and  open  for  20 
miles,  pigs',  cattle,  horses  and  fowls  lying  dead  around  every  homestead. 

Loch  reports  10  or  12  homesteads  burnt  to  the  gi'ound,  and  adds:  ''It  is 
pitiable  to  see  the  farmers  dragging  themselves  (I  cannot  call  it  walking) 
into  the  township,  almost  blind  with  the  heat  and  smoke,  and  otherwise  worn 
out.  Those  who  had  escaped  the  fire  were  burying  valuables  and  removing 
furniture,  recognising  that  anything  was  possible  with  such  fierce  fires." 

Feb.  .5th. — Korumburra  again  threatened.  A  fire  engine  and  hose  sent 
from  Melbourne.  One  settler,  who  was  brought  in  quite  blind,  relates  how 
seA'en  women  and  17  children  were  put  under  l)lankets  kept  saturated  with 
water  by  men  for  hours  until  the  fiercest  of  the  fire  had  passed.  The  men 
had  about  20  yards  to  go  for  water,  but  the  flames  and  smoke  were  so  terrible 
that   men   fainted  time   after  time  while   running  the  gauntlet. 

Feb.  9th. — Foster  in  flames:  dwelling  houses  and  two  churches  burnt; 
the  whole  town  threatened.    Jumbunna  again  attacked,  and  11  houses  burnt. 

Feb.  10th.— Foster  reports  enormous  damage  done,  about  80  houses  de- 
stroyed, and  gi"eat  losses  of  stock.  Korumburra  reports  fires  at  Kongwak. 
houise«  Imrnt,  and  stock  roasted. 

Feb.  12th. — Fos'ter  gives  further  details  of  the  swiftness  of  the  fire.  At 
one  homestead  it  came  up  while  milking  was  in  progress.  In  the  hurry  and 
confu.sion  the  cows  were  not  released  from  the  bails,  and  eight  were  roasted. 

The  same  day  rain  set  in,  and  gave  a  check  to  the  fires,  and  allowed  the 
unfortunate  (iippsland  settlers  an  opportunity  to  gather  their  scattered  herds 
together.  After  this  time,  although  there  were  other  outbi'eaks  of  fire  in 
different  localities,  they  were  mild  in  comparison  with  those  Avhich  preceded 
them.  The  Winter  folloAving  was  a  busy  time,  as  so  much  fencing  had  to  be 
replaced,  and  many  of  the  grass  paddocks  resown. 

Assistance  was  given  to  a  few  of  the  more  needy  by  a  relief  fund,  and 
the  Government  advanced  some  money  for  the  purchase  of  grass  seed  and 
fencing  wire,  to  be  repaid  over  a  long  period:  but  it  was  only  a  droj)  in  the 
ocean,  and  the  majority  of  the  ])ioneers  practically  took  up  their  burdens 
afresh  and  showed  their  confidence  in  the  district  by  rej^lacing  their  burnt 
homesteads  with  others  of  the  most  comfortable  and  substantial  character. 


A   Lightning   Muster. 


MR.  J.  LANGHAM. 


Eurly  in  the  year  1903  a  simmering  of  discontent 
prevailed  amongst  the  Victorian  raihvay  employees, 
more  especially  the  engine-drivers  and  firemen:  and 
dnring  tlie  first  week  of  May  matters  gradually  as- 
sumed a  more  serious  aspect  until  a  general  strike 
Avas  threatened.     The  Mell)ourne  stock  and  station 
agents,  recognising  the  serious  effect  which  a  strike 
would  have  on  the  weekly  meat  supply,  watched  the 
development  closely,  and  on  the  Friday  sent  tele- 
grams to  their  clients  and    country    agents    to   the 
effect  that  the  Railway  men's  executive  had  decided 
to  call  them  out  at  midnight  on  Friday.  May  8th. 
This  meant  that  there  would  he  no  train  service  for 
the  conveyance  of  stock  to  Newmarket  for  the  fol- 
lowing week's  siipply,  and  a  consequent  meat  famine 
in  Melbourne  unless  immediate  stei:)s  were  taken  to 
prevent  it,  for  the  great  bulk  of  the  live  stock  supply 
comes  by  rail.     The  time  was  too  short  for  long  dis- 
tance cattle  to  travel  in  for  Wednesday's  market,  so 
that  all  the  supplies  had  to  be  drawn  from  paddocks  within  about  70  miles 
of  Melbourne.     With  commendable  promptness  the  stock  agents  immediately 
sent  out   wires  to  their  clients  and  local   representatives  within  that  radius 
informing  them  of  the  situation  and  urging  them  to  forward  all  the  cattle 
they  po-^sibly  cordd  for  the  next  market. 

At  that  time  I  was  Gippsland  agent  for  ^Messrs.  Theo.  H.  Parker  &  Co., 
Stock  Agents.  ^lelbourne.  and  hap])ened  to  be  attending  the  usual  sale  at 
Korumburra  when  a  telegram  reached  me  from  the  firm  to  the*  efl'cct  that 
the  strikf  would  take  place  that  night,  and  they  wanted  me  to  try  to  get  a 
mob  of  cattle  together  for  the  market  on  the  following  Wednesday,  as  there 
would  be  a  .shortage.  Mr.  W.  S.  Sanders,  local  agent  for  Francis  Ross  &  Co., 
also  received  a  telegram  to  the  same  effect.  The  news  rapidly  spread  among 
the  cattlemen,  and  a  hurried  consultation  took  place  between  Mr.  Sanders  and 
myself,  the  upshot  of  which  Avas  that  we  decided  to  act  conjointly  in  getting 
together  as  many  cattle  as  possible,  and  travel  in  charge  of  them  ourselves. 
As  the  time  usually  taken  in  travelling  fat  cattle  from  Poowong  to  ^Melbourne 
was  four  days,  it  was  necessary  to  start  from  Poowong  the  following  morning. 
(Saturday),  and  it  was  now  Friday  afternoon,  so  that  all  arrangements  had 
to  be  made  and  the  cattle  mustered,  drafted  and  l>randed  in  the  meantime. 
It  will  be  understood  what  a  difficult  task  we  had  before  us.  as  with  only  a  few 
hours  of  daylight  to  do  it  in  vre  had  to  arrange  everything  for  the  road  as 
well  as  get  together  a  mob  of  cattle  sufficiently  large  to  be  of  value  under  the 
circumstances.  As  Korumburra  is  a  day's  travel  further  than  Poowong. 
the  project  seemed  to  be  almost  hopeless.  '  However,  the  cause  that  brought 
the  trouble  about   made  us  determined   to  see  the   matter  through,   and   the 


A    LIGHTNING    MUSTER.  315 

graziers  Avere  e(iually  determined  to  do  their  best  to  get  the  stock  iog(?ther.  so 
fill  parties  left  the  sale  early  and  hurried  home  to  muster  the  «-attle  before 
dark.  Many  had  to  travel  their  stock  half  the  night  so  as  to  get  into  a  good 
position  for  making  an  early  start  next  morning,  and  by  10  o'clock  on  Satur- 
day we  had  mustered,  tar  branded,  and  taken  delivery  of  '2-20  head  of  fat 
cattle  at  Poowong.  a  feat  which  went  a  long  way  to  show  what  farmers'  and 
graziers  can  do  when  necessity  arises.  Some  of  the  stock  hail  travelled  from 
"Ruin-,  a  distance  of  1'2  to  14  miles  beyond  Poowong. 

Among  the  owners  who  responded  so  well  Avere  ]SIessrs.  W.  Livingstone, 
(Ruby)  ;  J^  Western  (Kardella)  :  Ritchie  Bros.  (Arawatta)  :  Anderson  Bros.; 
Ross  Bros. :  W.  Langham.  sen.  (Cruikston  and  Poowong):  Langham  Bros.; 
D,  Heni-y;  Sanders  Bros.  ( Korumburra )  •  T.  J.  Covenlale  (Bena);  Foidyce 
Bros.  (Locli)-  Messrs.  .hic/.  Cooke  and  Thos.  Iloulahnn  of  Poowong  had  a 
mob  of  300  head  on  the  road  in  front  of  us',  whilst  another  lot  from  Messrs. 
Kurrle.  R.  X.  and  Y.  J.  Scott.  J.  Edwards  and  Halford  Bros.,  in  charge  of 
Mr.  H.  Collins,  was  travelling  from  Clenalvie:  all  striking  the  main  Mel- 
bourne road  at  Tobin  Yallock  (Lang  Lang),  and  arriving  there  on  the  Satur- 
day about  dark.  It  was  a  difficult  matter  to  get  accomm»)(hiti()n  j^addocks, 
as  there  were  1250  head  of  fat  cattle  camped  there.  AA'hen  it  is  lemembered 
that  little  more  than  twenty-four  hours  before  all  these  cattle  had  been  scat- 
tered over  about  300  s(|uare  miles  of  country,  that  they  had  been  nuistered. 
drafted  out.  branded  and  delivered  at  a  point,  in  some  cases  thirty  miles  from 
their  paddocks,  without  the  loss  of  a  beast,  and  that  in  rough  couutiv.  I  think 
this  ''lightning  muster"  may  staiid  as  a  record,  even  in  these  days  of  i-apid 
"mobilisation." 

The  second  day's  (Sunchiy)  stage  from  Lang  Lang  nearly  to  (Vanbourne 
was  a  long  one  after  the  forced  travel  of  the  day  before,  and  nearly  everybody 
we  met  on  the  I'oad  en<|uired  of  us  as  to  how  we  got  the  cattle  together  in 
the  time.  etc.  On  M<mday  we  iiad  to  ride  back  about  four  miles  from  Cran- 
bourne  to  muster  a  800-acre  rough  paddock  in  the  rain:  this  we  did.  and  had 
the  cattle  at  the  gate  ready  to  count  out  at  daylight,  so  as  to  give  us  a  good 
start  and  get  first  on  the  road  for  water  and  feed,  having  breakfast  in  turns  at 
Cranbourne  as  we  came  through.  T  crippled  my  horse  in  a  rabbit  burrow,  but 
that  made  no  difference.  a>  exeryone  was  so  willing  to  help  that  I  was  offei'ed 
several  horses  to  see  me  thiough.  ^fonday  being  sale  day  at  Cranbourne. 
people  on  the  road  to  the  sale  would  stoj)  us  and  ask  (|uestions  about  the 
muster,  and  we  were  just  as  anxious  to  heai-  news  of  the  strike.  ^^'e  paid 
one  man  fkl.  foi-  the  ''.Vrgus."  and  saw  in  it  that  '2000  head  of  cattle  were 
coming  forward  foi-  the  week's  supi)ly.  and  a  telegram  to  Messrs.  Theo.  TL 
Pai-k'cr  and  Co.  fi-oni  tlicir  (Jii)j)sland  agent,  sent  from  Poowong.  stated  that 
about  1200  head  wcic  on  tlic  load  from  there,  due  at  Lang  Lang  on  Saturday 
night.  .Monday  night  we  camped  at  Dandenong.  Tuesday  morning  we  left 
Dandenong.  and  all  along  the  road,  especi.iliy  towards  evening,  as  we  ap- 
proached Caulfield.  and  it  became  generally  known  through  the  pajx'rs  that 
cattle  wei-e  coming  by  road  for  the  weekly  siip])ly.  we  were  besieged  by  inter- 
ested people,  and  if  we  had  been  so  inclined,  the  menfolk  \\f»uld  liaxc  treated  lis 
.so  well  tliat  the  cattle  might  ne\er  have  reached  their  destination,  but  have 
V)ecome  a  watidering  nuisance  about  the  common.  The  ladies  would  have  us 
as  guests  at  afternoon  tea.  V)ut  being  shy  young  men  from  the  \u\<\\.  we  felt  it 
moi-e  judicious  to  i-eniain  with  the  mob.  pi'omising  to  call  in  on  our  wav 
I)ack.  We  were  little  heroes  for  the  time.  "In'iniring  food  foi-  the  masses." 

Tiiexlay  niglit  saw  all  tin-  \ai-d  acconiiiiodation  at  Caulfield  ta.xed  to  its 
utmost  capacity  with  cattle,  while  we  droxcis  and  the  men   who  were  >eiit  out 


S16  A    LIGHTNING    MUSTER. 

to  moot  us  from  Xewmnrkot  and  help  steady  the  mob  throuiih  the  city,  num- 
bering- a])out  'JO  all  told,  enjoyed  our  eveninjr  meal  and  swopped  yarns  over 
a  glass  of  Heywood's  best  or  had  a  quiet  nap  in  a  corner,  our  horses  feeding 
and  resting,  ready  for  the  night's  journey.  At  midnight  Ave  resaddled  our 
Avearv  horses  and  stai'ted  our  l)ellowing,  nervous  mob  on  their  last  march.  We 
traversed  the  Dantlenong  road,  crossed  the  Windsor  Bridge,  went  along  Wel- 
lington Street  to  the  St.  Kilda  Road,  crossed  Princes  Bridge  into  Swanston 
Street,  where  the  flickering  lights  had  a  bad  effect  on  the  mob.  making  them 
very  excited  and  anxious  to  break  away.  AVe  travelled  along  Swanston 
Street  as  far  as  Victoria  Street,  where  we  crossed  into  Elizabeth  Street,  and 
on  to  the  Racecourse  Road,  and  landed  our  charges  safely  at  Xewmarket  yards 
at  about  5  a.m. 

We  had  about  an  hour  before  daylight  to  stretch  our  weary  limbs  on  the 
floor  of  the  office,  in  which  was  a  fire.  At  daylight  we  started  to  draft 
oft'  the  dift'erent  lots,  and  as  Francis,  Ross  &  Co.  had  first  sale,  and  we  (Theo. 
H.  Parker  &  Co.)  had  second,  there  was  no  time  to  lose.  All  the  drafting  w^as 
done  in  our  lane,  and  the  cattle  for  Messrs.  Francis.  Ross  &  Co.  were  then 
taken  to  their  lane,  and  they  had  to  class  them  to  the  best  advantage  for  the 
sale.  In  addition  to  this  drafting  Ave  had  to  class  and  also  to  draft  Messrs. 
Cooke  &  Houlahan's  bullocks.  After  the  sale  Ave  left  XcAvmarket  for  Dande- 
nong.  stopping  at  Caulfield  for  tea,  and  reaching  Dandenong  about  0  p.m., 
thirty-nine  hours  Avithout  a  rest  since  leaving  there.  Thursday  morning  Ave 
left  Dandenong  to  get  back  to  Korumburra  in  time  to  get  another  lot  ready  for 
the  folloAving  market.  And  s'o  aa'c  plaved  our  little  part  in  the  historv  of  the 
"Big  Railway  Strike." 


The  Pastoral   Industry. 

MR    J.  WESTERN. 

Carlyle  sayi^:  "The  man  who  make;<  two  hhi.les  ot"  i>i"ass  to  grow  where  only 
one  gi'eAv  before  i.s  a  benefactor  to  hi;s  race."  The  (iippshind  pioneer^  dis- 
covered a  great  province  lying  waste  and  useless— the  haunt  of  the  dingo  and 
wallaby — almost  uncanm'  ni  the  strange  stillness  that  lay  upon  it;  and  by  dint 
of  years  of  the  most  strenuous  toil  turned  it  into  a  land  of  rich  pastures  and 
comfortable  homes' — changing  the  silent  wildeiiu'-^.-;  into  one  (»f  the  i-ii-Iiesi  and 
most  populous  provinces  of  the  State. 

Having  a  climate  and  rainfall  suited  to  the  growth  of  English  gras.'^es, 
the  burns  or  clearing.-  were  soon  transformed  from  an  ap[>earance  of  grimy 
desolation  to  smiling  pasture,  and  the  hardy  pioneer  began  at  once  to  have 
visions  of  wealth,  but  his  joy  was  generally  shortdived,  though  it  encouraged 
him  greatly  while  it  lasted,  and  he  soon  found  to  his  sorrow  that  Naiure 
resented  his  coming,  and  steadily  and  persistently  resisted  him  at  every  turn. 
She  had  been  in  possession  so  hmg.  had  clothed  the  hills  and  valleys  with 
life  in  a  hundred  forms,  and  laid  her  schemes  with  matchless  beauty  and 
order.  Man's  intelligence  department  was  serious'ly  at  fault  if  he  thought 
she  would  make  an  easy  surrender  to  him>  But  in  those  early  days  he  cer- 
tainly thought  so.  as  he  came  into  the  foi-est  shaking  his  puny  axe  threaten- 
ingly with  an  almost  jaunty  self-assurance. 

Ijong  years  afterwards,  when  he  was  bent  and  toil-woi'u  and  wiser,  he 
admitted  that,  victor  though  he  was.  th"  struggle  had  been  such  as  he  had 
never  dreamed  of.  Duiing  the  first  S])ring.  when  the  cattle  bought  at  C'ran- 
bourne — then  the  nearest  market— had  begun  to  get  sleek  and  fat,  the 
settler  debated  with  himself  and  his  neighboiu's  whether  he  would  be  al)le 
to  get  them  off  by  Christma-.  and  fatten  a  second  draft,  and  so  double  the 
j)rofits  of  the  season.  Then  the  cjitcrpilliirs  came,  and  in  one  short  week 
.settled  the  nuitter  for  him  l»y  .-tri])ping  his  paddock  of  every  vestige  of 
grass,  and  comi)elling  him  to  sell  or  put  his  cattle  out  somewhere  to  graze 
until  the  Autumn  rains  came  to  bring  on  a  fresh  growth  of  gi-ass.  A.s  this 
in.sect  pest  never  molested  the  thistle>.  these  llotirislied  amazingly  meanwhile 
and  scattered  theii-  seeds  everywhere:  and  the  following  year,  instead  of 
insects,  there  wei'e  thistle-  -o  high  and  dense  that  track-  had  to  be  <ait 
through  them  to  enal)le  a  few  iiardy  -heep  or  cattle  to  get  a  somewhat 
precaiiou->    li\ing.    for   of   grass   there    was    but    little. 

'J'he  thistle  pest  generally  lasted  two  or  three  year-,  until  the  lan<l 
seemed  to  be  Aveai'v  of  thistles  and  wanti-d  a  change;  and  by  this  time  the 
old  forest  life  was  icady  t(»  re-assert  itself  again  in  young  growth  of  all 
the  original  trees  and  plants:  and  the  work'  of  getting  rid  of  this  .second 
growth  was  often  a  \cr\  co-tly  one.  Then  the  i\]y  limber  began  to  fall, 
l)ranches  fiinn  the  trees,  often  the  tree  it.self.  then  the  tall  spars  that  were 
thought  to  be  too  big  to  be  felled  with  the  -crnb:  lir-t  l)y  (»n(s  and  twos, 
then  whole  |)latoons  of  them  v.duld  be  blown  omt  l)y  the  gales  that  often 
rage(|.  and  the  groinid  would  become  so  covered  u|)  with  timber  that  it 
often    la\'    for    nian\-    veai-s    Ixd'ore    the    >-ettler    li;id    lime    lo    binn    it    oil':    !iis 


!1S 


THE    PASTORAL    INDUSTRY. 


RICH     PASTOUAL 


time  being  taken  up  with  cntting  new  areas  f>f  scrub,  fencing,  etc.  Long 
before  this  the  settler  had  fnlly  realised  the  kind  of  thing  he  had  to  face; 
but  he  was  undaunted,  and  carried  on  the  fight,  and  for  many  a  long  year 
did  it  last.  Then  it  seemed  as  though  Xature  saw  that  man  had  really  come 
to  stay,  and  would  not  be  driven  out;  so  she  seemed  to  turn  and  become 
his  friend.  The  various  ])ests  spent  themselves,  or  were  successfully  dealt 
\\'.th.  She  helped  to  clear  the  timber,  \\ith  a  wry  ueucrous  hand,  her 
myriad  forces  working  silently  and  persistently  day  and  night:  she  called 
up  her  winged  legions  to  extirpate  the  caterpillai-  and  g;;as.sh()j)per  pests. 
The  rains  came  with  regidarity.  and  made  the  seasons  sure;  other  districts 
often  lay  stricken  with  clrought.  but  nexev  once  since  the  beginning  of  settle- 
ment has  South  Gippsland  failed  in  rainfall:  and  the  tide  of  prosperity 
set  in.  slow  and  lal^orious.  but  sure.  Every  year  saw  large  areas  of  scrub 
cleared  and  turned  into  pasture:  the  stock  every  year  improving  in  nmnbers 
and  quality,  and  gradually  the  district  became  Very  favouial)ly  known  to 
the  city  butchers  for  the  excellent  quality  of  its  fatVtock. 

Early  in  the  '90"s,  just  as  the  bulk  of  the  scrub  had  been  cleared,  began 
the  long  series  of  dry  years  in  the  North  that  culminated  in  the  disastrous 
drought  year  of  190'2.  and  during  this  period  the  good  prices  prevailing  for 
fat  stock  gave  the  pioneers  a  splendid  lift,  that  began  to  show  itself  at 
once  in  the  general  and  rapid  improvement  of  the  district  and  the  steady 
rise  in  land  values.  It  is  quite  safe  to  say  that  between  the  years  1894 
and  1904  land  values  increased  by  an  average  of  at  least  £1  per  acre  per 
year,  values  that  have  been  well  maintained  since,  except  where  neglect  has 
been  shown.  Xot  only  was  the  reputation  of  South  Gii^psland  for  fat  stock 
established  during  this  time,  but,  aided  by  the  co-operative  system  of  butter- 


THE    PASTORAL    INDUSTRY. 


319 


.^^^(l^'^ri^irl.i^^ikA!^^ 


COUNTRY. 


iiiakino-  and  the  export  trade,  dairying:  Ijecame  well  eslal»lislied.  and  the 
district  began  to  i)rodnce  larsre  quantities  of  high-class  buttei':  ami  it  is  to 
this  industry  that  the  district   owes  much  of  its  progres's. 

The  cai-rying  capacity  of  the  i)astures  of  South  (lippsland,  with  its 
rich  soil  and  generous  rainfall,  is  well  known;  nor  has  it  seriously  declined 
"svith  the  gradually  lessened  rainfall  caused  by  the  destruction  of  the  forest, 
and  what  may  ha\e  been  lost  in  (luantity  has  been  made  up  in  (|uality,  except 
in  cases   where   coiit  iniioii>  o\-ei'st()cking   has   ruined    the   sole   of   grass. 

Cocksfoot  and  rye-grass  aic  the  principal  grasses  sown,  together  with 
white,  red.  and  al>il<e  cloxcrs:  but  the  clovers  do  not  stand  close  feeding 
with  sheep,  and  giadiially  disappeai-.  Those  who  have  sown  crested  dogs- 
tail,  a  hardy  English  grass  of  excellent  (juality  and  sturdy  habit,  have 
found  their  pa>tui-es  greatly  improved  l»y  it.  ()ther  clovcis  of  the  trefoil 
vai-iety  have  made  their  a])pearance  during  the  last  few  years,  especially  in 
paddocks  whei-e  sheep  ha\e  been  kept,  and  this  has  helped  to  maintain  the 
excellence  of  the  pastures. 

The  grazier  geneially  allows  three  acres  to  a  ialteniug  bullock  or  dairy 
cow.  and  this  is  found  to  be  ample  in  a  good  i)addock.  The  fattening  (|ualities 
of  thes'e  ])astures  is  not  perhaps  so  high  as  the  native  grasses  in  many  of 
the  best  districts  of  Australia,  where  a  sheep  may  be  Ujade  i)rime  fat  in 
a  month  or  six  weeks,  the  ra|)id  fattening  (jiialities  of  the  grass  being  suited  to 
the  shoi'tness  of  the  .season.  The  strength  of  the  (Jippslaiider's  position  lies  in 
the  fact  that  his  .seas'on  is  sure,  and  the  fattening  |)eriod  lasts  from  Spring  to 
Autumn,  and  the  carrying  capacity  of  the  rounti'v  is  from  two  to  thr-ee  sheep 
to  the   acre,   according  to   the  season    of   the   yeai".      Fi'om   the  earlie.s't   day.s 


320  THE    PASTORAL    INDUSTRY. 

niaiiv  settlers  gave  their  attention  to  sheep,  and  generally  foiuul  them  to 
be  more  profitable  than  cattle,  and  that  they  improved  the  qnality  of  the 
pastnre.  The  hardier  English  breeds  do  the  best,  and  for  breeding  ewes  the 
Lincoln  or  Leicester  merino  cross  have  been  found  the  most  suitable,  and 
these  crossed  again  with  Shropshire  or  Border-Leicester  prc.duce  a  splendid 
type  of  Iambs,  well  suited  to  the  requirements  of  the  Melbourne  or  export 
trade.  The  Konniey  sheep  have  also  been  tried,  and  this  splendid  breed  that 
has  done  so  much  for  New  Zealand  has  proved  to  be  pre-eminently  suited 
to  our  moist  climate.  They  are  a  hardy,  quick-thriving  sheep.  poSvSe,s.sing 
a  good  constitution  and  strong  sound  feet,  a  most  important  point  in  their 
favour,  and  are  Avell  worthy  of  a,  much  larger  place  in  the  estimation  of 
Gippsland  flockowners. 

A  sj)ecial  feature  of  South  Gippsland  sheep  is  their  rapid  development, 
and  tills  was  more  marked  in  the  early  days,  before  the  pastures  became 
to  some  extent  "sheep  sick"  by  stocking  continuously  with  sheep.  At  that  time 
it  was  no  very  rare  thing  to  see  a  lamb  8  or  9  months  old  turning  the  .scale 
at  TO  lbs.  dressed.  Before  the  grazier  began  to  understand  the  possibilities 
of  his  new  district  he  often  made  many  mistakes,  and  one  of  them  was  to 
get  his  land  "shee])  sick"  by  .stocking  continuously  with  sheep  only,  but  as  he 
went  on  he  found  that  by  subdividing  his  land  into  convenient  paddocks, 
and  careful  management,  .sheep  may  be  always  profitably  kept,  though  a 
certain  number  of  cattle  in  conjunction  is  the  better  plan. 

With  the  clearing  away  of  charred  logs  and  timber  that  used  to  give 
the  wool  a  shabby  appearance,  Gipp.sland  wools  have  come  rapidly  to  the 
front.  It  is  always  found  to  be  sound  in  staple  and  well  grown,  and  while 
its  heavy  condition  always  tends  to  keep  the  price  per  ll».  down,  the  nett 
result  per  head  is  highly  satisfactory  to  the  grower. 

But  greater  than  the  trade  in  sheep  has  been  that  of  fat  cattle,  and 
ever}'  week  for  about  seven  months  of  the  year,  hundreds  of  fine  cattle  are 
trucked  to  the  Melbourne  markets  for  sale.  Large  numbers  of  store  cattle 
are  bought  in  other  districts,  the  cooler  or  mountain  ~  preferred,  and  cattle 
from  those  parts  start  to  thrive  at  once  and  always  do  exceedingly  well. 
Tho.se  from  hotter  parts  take  .sonie  time  to  get  accliuiatised.  and  often  valuable 
time  is  lost  through  this.  Queensland  cattle  especially  often  take  two 
years  to  get  the  quality  the  hardy  mountain  cattle  would  reach  in  four  or 
five  months. 

For  many  years  store  bullocks  have  l>ecome  increasingly  scarce,  and  the 
large  mobs  of  well-bred  beef  cattle  that  were  a  feature  of  the  special  Sirring 
sales  are  now  very  rarely  .seen.  So  much  attentiois  has  of  late  ^;ears  been 
given  to  dairying  and  the  breeding  of  dairy  cattle,  that  the  b"oef  breeds 
have  become  rather  neglected  and  reduced  in  numbers,  and  in  addition 
to  this,  dairymen  have  found  it  unprofitable  to  rear  calves  other  than  a  few 
heifers  to  keep  up  their  herds,  causing  a  serious  shortage  of  beef  cattle 
in  the  .southern  Stat&s:  but  no  doubt  the  greatlv  iucivased  prices  will 
soon  bririg  forward  the  required  number.  The  present  outlook  not  onlv 
for  Gippsland,  but  for  the  whole  of  Australia,  points  to  higher  and  steadier 
prices  for  beef  and  mutton,  than  has  ruled  in  past  vears.  when  prime  cattle 
were  often  sold  at  15/-  per  cwt.  of  beef,  and  even  down  to  10  '-.  and  fat 
•sheep  and  lambs  from  10/-  each  and  upwards.  The  e\  er  increasing 
export  demand,  and  from  countries  also  that  were  once  in  competition  with 
Au.stral]a,  has  put  a  new  value  on  Australia's  meat,  and  to-day  the  prospect 


321  THE     PASTORAL    INDUSTRY. 

was  ncvoT  ln'iohter  for  tlif  pa.-lovalisl.  cxcc])!    for  tlie  cloud   that  lie-  on  the 
political  liorizon  that  ]ioileii(l<  cvcr-incrcasin^  taxation. 

Hitherto  the  bad  state  of  the  roads  prevented  an}'  serion.s  attempt  at 
cultivation  exicept  for  produce  retjuired  for  home  con.snmption.  but  of  late, 
with  the  gradual  improvement  of  oin*  thoroughfares,  has  come  the  increasing 
area  given  to  potato  and  onion  growing.  The  soil  and  climate  are  well  suited 
to  these  crops,  and  heavy  yields  can  always  be  depended  on  if  well  faruied. 
No  mannres  are  recjuired.  the  laud  being  rich  in  plant  food,  and  six  or  seven 
tons  per  acre  of  marketable  potatoes  is  an  average  yield.  Onions  often  return 
as  high  as  10  or  12  tons  to  the  acre,  and  there  is  every  prospect  of  our  district 
becoming  one  of  the  largest  groAvers  of  these  products;  and  it  is'  cultivation 
that  will  put  the  finishing  touches  to  the  pioneer's  work.  Hitherto  the  grazier 
has  been  satisfied  to  keep  his  land  cleared  of  fallen  timber,' leaving  the  beauty 
of  the  landscape  marred  by  dead  trees  and  bracken,  but  the  ploughman  unist 
have  his  field  cleared  of  all  timber,  and  the  rough  sm-face  levelled  down,  and 
wdien  he  has  done  his  work,  and  the  land  is  once  more  sown  to  gra.ss.  the 
bracken  has  disappeared,  and  instead  of  the  rough  and  uneven  surface,  thei-e 
is  a  fine  even  sward  that  reminds  one  of  the  grassy  hills  and  \alleys  of 
glorions  Devon. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  J.  RAINBOW. 


I  -vvell  remember  our  first  trip  to  South  Gipps- 
lancl  in  the  eighties:  how  Ave  went  from  Biininyong 
to  Droiiiii.  and  then  walked  from  there  to  Poowong. 
How  rough  I  thought  the  country  was,  but  it  sur- 
prised me  more  when  I  arrived  at  the  abode  of 
Mr.  John  (xlew.  It  then  struck  me  what  a  wilder- 
ness I  had  goi  into.  The  phice  was  called  Jum- 
bunna  East.  AA'e  had  been  told  to  enquire  for  a,  man 
named  -Mr.  Peter  Xielsen,  who  was  picking  up 
some  burnt  timber.  JNir.  (Mew  directed  us  to  the 
camp,  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile  distant.  Then 
commenced  a  journey  over  logs.  etc..  to  the  camp, 
and  another  to  where  Peter  Xielsen  was  working 
with  three  other  men.  We  made  ourselves  known, 
and  got  permission  to  camp  Avith  them  for  the 
night.  We  wwe  permitted  to  sleep  in  their  icitchen, 
which  was  a  10  x  1-2  tent.  The  table  was  made  of 
four  hazel  sticks  driven  into  the  ground  and  some 
s])lit  slabs  of  black!  >utt  nailed  on  the  top.  Chairs 
con>i>ted  of  four  forked  sticks  with  other  straight  pieces  laid  in  the  forks. 
These  chairs  had  to  be  pulled  up  to  enable  us  to^make  our  beds,  which  were 
constructed  as  follows': — Two  hazel  stumps  and  a  sheepskin  for  mattress, 
sheets  and  pillows.  We  had,  hoAvever,  taken  with  us  a  Ijlanket  each.  Of 
course.  I  happened  to  be  the  one  to  haA-e  to  lie  on  the  tAvo  hazel  stumps,  one 
under  my  shoulder  and  the  other  under  my  hip.  If  you  compare  this  Avith 
the  joys  of  a  kapok  mattress,  you  Avill  see  1  did  not  have  a  verv  comfortable 
bed  to  lie  upon  that  night.  I  might  add  we  Avere  all  up  at  davlight.  Next 
morning,  my  brother  and  a  friend,  Mr.  George  Matheson.  started  out  to 
view  the  country  that  was  open  for  selection.  Peter  Xielsen  going  Avith 
them  as'  guide,  Avhich  occupied  nearly  all  daA'.  At  night  Ave  had  the 
same  room.  l)ut  I  might  say  that  the  "^hazel  stumps  had  been  removed,  as 
they  Avere  quite  unnecessary  for  a  good  night's  rest.  This  Avas  the  best 
accommodation  Ave  could  get.  Of  course,  "beggars  can't  be  choosers."  Xext 
day  we  made  a  .start  for  Drouin:  we  got  as  far  as  Mr.  Blew's  bv  dinner 
time,  and  on  arriving  at  PooAvong  Ave  stopped  all  nioht  at  Hor.^ley's.  and 
had  a  comfortable  night's  rest,  and  next  morning  Ave  were  up  after  daylight, 
and  walked  to  Drouin,  and  taking  train  the 'followino;  mornijio-  reached 
Buninyong  and  home  at  half-pa.'^t  live  in  the  evening. 

r.M  "^^  \'?^  pa.s.-mg  through  Melbourne,  we  lodged  our  apphcation  at  the  Lands 
UHice.  We  bad  now  to  wait  for  a  call  from  the  Government  to  attend  the  Land 
Boara.  which  was  to  be  held  at  Drouin.  This,  hoAvever.  was  not  long  in  coming; 
there  being  no  oppo.sition,  the  land  Avas  recommended  to  us  anrf  on  the  day 
after  we  set  out  with  the  tents  and  axes  we  had  purchased  and  arrived  in 
Poowong  in  time  for  dinner,  after  Avhich  we  made  a  start  for  Mr  Blew's 
wheiv  we  had  tea.  and  also  slept  there  that  niolit.      :\[r    aii<l  All-    lUow  and 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  323 

family  made  us  very  welcome,  not  only  that  niiiht.  but  ou  many  other  occa- 
sions, for  which  kindness  we  were  very  thankful. 

This  part  of  Gippsland  in  those  days  boasted  no  macadamised 
roads.  Waggons,  drays,  buggies  and  motor-cans  were  all  embodied  in 
the  one  thing — the  pack  horse.  The  railways  we  had  then  were  muddy 
pack  tracks,  in  which  horses  sank  up  to  tlieir  knees.  Next  day  we 
left  ^Ir.  Blew's  en  route  for  Mr.  John  Glew's,  and,  after  having  dinner 
there,  we  arrived  at  Mr.  Arthur  Elms',  where  we  spent  the  night. 
Next  morning  my  brother  and  George  Matheson  started  out  for  the 
purpose  of  cutting  a  pack  track  to  enable  us  to  get  our  provisions 
etc..  down  to  our  blocks,  where  we  Avished  to  .start  clearing.  But  they  had 
got  only  about  half-way  down  when  it  became  night.  I.  in  the  meantime, 
■was  helping  Mr.  Elms  to  cut  some  of  his  scrub,  this  being  ni}^  first  experience 
in  scrub  cutting.  The  following  day  George  Matheson  and  I  went  down 
to  finish  the  pack  track  while  my  brother  went  to  Poowong  for  provisiojis 
and  to  order  more  to  be  brought  down.  This  was  the  beginning  of  our 
batching  experience. 

After  |)itching  our  tents,  we  set  to  work  to  make  the  beds  in 
the  bedroom.  c(insi.-ting  of  four  forked  sticks  driven  into  the  ground 
for  bedpost-  and  a  frame  made  of  hazel,  across  which  were  stretched 
bags.  In  the  kitchen  the  furniture  w^as  just  as  elaborate.  For  a  table,  four 
stakes  were  driven  into  the  ground,  two  sticks  were  nailed  on  these,  and  the 
"boards."'  consisting  of  split  blue  gum  slabs,  were  nailed  on  to  these  .side- 
pieces.  I  suppose  you  would  like  to  knoAv  what  our  chairs  were  like.  \A'ell, 
two  forked  sticks  Avere  driven  into  the  ground  on  either  side  of  the  table, 
and  pieces  of  round  hazel  laid  in  the  forks.  Of  course,  we  had  to  have 
a  candlestick.  AVe  got  a  thick  piece  of  Avood,  and  drove  three  nails  into  it 
to  hold  the  candle.  This  completed  the  furniture  in  our  kitchen  tent :  neces- 
sity compelled  us  to  manufacture  all  our  furnitm-e  locally.  The  utensils 
Avere  as  follows: — 1  bucket.  2  l)illies.  a  frying  pan.  and  a  camp  oven.  V>v- 
fore  the  latter  arrived  we  tried  our  hand  at  making  a  damper.  After  burn- 
ing a  waggon  load  of  wood  and  producing  what  we  thought  was  suflicient 
heat  to  bake  a  damper,  we  put  one  in  for  a  ie^y  hours.  The  reader  nuist 
not  suppose  we  had  a  w-aggon  and  went  out  into  the  forest  to  bring  in  a 
load  of  wood :  that  Avoidd  be  impossible,  and  (]uite  unnecessary,  as  it  was' 
lying  in  imlimited  (juantities  in  all  directions,  within  a  few  yards  of  our 
camp.  AVhen  we  thought  the  damper  was  done.  \\v  pulled  it  out.  and  was 
surprised  to  find  that  it  Avas  baked  only  an  inch  thi-ough  on  tlie  top.  while 
the  bottom  \v;i~  ■Jaiiipcr""  than  when  we  placed  it  in  llic  liic,  I'>cing  resolved, 
however,  to  make  it  more  perfect,  we  put  it  i)ack  in  tlic  lire,  and  left  it 
there  all  night.  The  next  morning  it  Avas  covered  Avith  ashes,  and  a  toma- 
hawk had  to  be  refpiisitioned  to  cut  it.  but  having  had  only  a  light  supper 
the  night  before,  we  ate  the  lot.  The  next  w;i^  a  va.-l  iuii)i<»\<'meul.  and 
lasted  only  one  day.  On  the  fointh  day  we  made  one  that  was  almost  per- 
fect. Next  Ave  had  a  trial  of  pancakes,  my  brother  making  (hem  while  the 
tAvo  of  us  ate  them  as  fast  as  he  cooked  them.  Tlowex'ei'.  it  wa,s  not  l(»ug 
before  he  said.  "Look  here,  one  c)f  you  fellows  come  h(>re  and  cooiv  them  while 
I  have  a  feed.""  This  sort  of  thing  contimied  for  sexcral  days:  then  we 
tried  our  hand  at  scone  making,  the  oven  consisting  of  a  I'rying  pan  about 
eight  inches  in  diameter.  This  also  la.sted  for  .several  days — not  the  scones; 
AA'e  required  several  of  them  each  day.  aiul  lilce  (he  i-est  of  the  cooking,  im- 
])roved  at- each  loson.  The  only  thing  we  luul  lo  ^lucad  on  our  scones, 
etc..  was  bhick   lrc;icl<'.      We  had   no  liuttcr  oi'  lain  unlil  -omc  (inic  ;irt('i'\\ards. 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  3_>5 

We  had  now  to  l)uild  a  chiuiney.  which  coiL-^isted  of  ^ome  big 
pieces  of  wood  .>^tood  iiprioht  in  the  oronnd.  and  aljout  7  feet  in  height. 
Soil  was  built  up  at  the  back  for  a  height  of  3  feet.  Tlie  iron  bar  on  which 
to  hang  our  Ijoiler.  camp-oven,  frying  pan  and  kettle  ( which  consisted  of 
a  billy  can)  Avas  a  round  piece  of  wood.  This  chimney  smoked  so  mnch 
that  we  had  to  build  another  one.  This  time  the  bricks  were  of  the  same 
make,  but  the  chimney  was  attached  to  the  Idtchen.  We  now  began  to 
feel  the  benefit  of  the  fire  and  some  smoke.  When  it  rained  Ave  could  sit 
in  the  kitchen,  and  not  get  wet.  We  now  had  to  get  our  ''linoleum"  and 
■■lirit.-.^elK''  for  the  l)edroom  and  kitchen.  These  con.^isted  of  .«ome  sheets  of 
bark  s'tripped  from  the  spars.  They  were  the  best  we  could  get  until 
we  got  some  sacks.  We  now  commenced  to  try  our  hand  at  bread  making 
in  the  camp  oven.  We  got  the  dough  mixed  up  all  right,  but  we  did 
not  know  how  hot  to  make  the  oven.  One  said  one  thing  and  one  another, 
and  at  last  it  was  decided  to  take  the  adA'ice  of  the  other  one.  So  the  oven 
was  made  red  hot  and  the  dough  put  in.  We  had  bad  fortune,  however,  as 
it  turned  out  like  the  first  damper.  l)aked  only  half-way  through.  As  you 
may  well  suppo.se.  it  was  thrown  out  to  the  pigs  (which  were  goannas)  and 
the  poultry,  namely,  the  satin  birds  and  the  jays,  who  used  to  vi5?it  us.  but 
they  were  not  kind  enough  to  leave  us  any  eggs  for  tea.  One  of  the  neigh- 
b^ouring  selector.-  wa-  our  butcher.  Of  coui'se.  he  had  a  freezing  chamber  in 
the  shape  of  a  pickle  tub,  which  was  out  of  order  sometimes.  AVhen  this 
hapTxned  we  had  to  give  some  of  our  meat  to  the  pigs.  These  "pig.«''  used 
to  climb  the  trees  and  s'leep  in  the  branches  and  not  in  lieds  of  jiea  straw. 
They  did   not   do   any  squealing. 

We  now  started  scrub  cutting,  and  after  Avorking  some  days  at  this  were 
joined  l)y  Mr.  AVilliams.  and  when  he  set  up  his  tent  and  furni.shed  it,  there 
Avas  quite  a  little  Buninyong  settlement.  The  first  season's  scrub  cutting 
1)einir  over.  Ave  set  out  for  Buninyong  to  spend  our  Christmas  holi'lays.  My 
brothoi-  and  Mi".  Matheson  returned  first,  in  order  to  attend  to  the  burning 
off.  so  that  grass  .seed  might  be  soAvn  and  cattle  put  on  the  land.  Piclcing  up 
noAv  connnenced.  but  before  it  AVas  in  full  SAving  a  hou.se  Avas  built.  It  con- 
sisted of  one  room  (kitchen  and  bedroom  all  in  one).  Then  our  visitors 
connnenced  coming.  These  Avere.  first,  little  black  ants.  and.  secondly,  rats. 
You  might  think  that  it  Avould  be  an  ea.sy  matter  to  deal  with  the  ants. 
First  we  hung  the  bags  containing  tho.se  things  ants  are  fond  of  frou)  the 
rafters,  but  tlu«y  came  doAvn  the  i-ope.  Then  Ave  stood  the  bug  on  a  blodc 
of  Avot)d  in  the  middle  of  a  di.sh  of  watei-.  The  rats,  of  course,  attacked 
the  fiour  and  bread,  and  Ave  found  that  the  only  remedy  was  to  get  a  cat. 
I  lirought  one  Avith  me  from  Buninycmg.  T  often  think  of  two  young  ladies 
Avho  Avere  in  the  coach  Avith  nie  on  that  ti-i|)  Ix'twcen  Drouin  and  Poowong. 
One  asked  me  what  T  had  in  mv  box.  AMicn  I  said.  ••.\  cat."  ihcy  sai<l.  "'Poor 
cat."  and  all  at  once  lln'  c^icli  wciii  iiiio  a  (|(i|.  hole  and  ihrcw  ihcni  for- 
Avard.  Then  as  the  coach  wcnl  back  I  went  loi'ward  n('ai-i\-  into  their  laps. 
This  is  an  instance  showing  the  bad  stale  oi'  the  roads  in  those  days,  .\lter 
dining  at  Poowong.  T  waHced  to  Jinnbunna  Kasl.  arriving  there  with  th(>  eat 
just  l)efore  dark.  On  ari'i\ing  at  (Ik*  canq).  the  cat  soon  stai'ted  on  the 
rats.  In  ordei-  to  irive  an  idea  of  llieir  nninber.  I  may  s'ay  that  one  night  we 
killed  30.  Fi'oin  this  accoimt  you  can  .-.ee  that  pioneering  in  those  earlv  <lays 
had  its  drawbacks,  and  one  had  to  forego  many  of  the  comforts  of  civilisa- 
tion.     It    was  not    all   beei-  and  skittles  being  a    Pioneer  Seleeloi'. 

The  i-eader.  however,  nnist  not  suppose  that  there  was  no  enterlaui- 
nient  or  anything  to  amuse  or  interest  us  in  this  great  bnsh.  There  was, 
for  in  it   was  a  most  extensive  nienairerie  and  axiarv. 


326  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

It  was  verv  intorestin«r  to  walk  throusrh  this  jrivat  \n\>h  and  observe 
the  habits  of  the  various  animals  and  birds,  and  note  the  various  kinds  of 
trees,  i?hrubs,  ferns,  creepers,  mosses,  etc.,  which  grew  in  such  profusive 
hixuriance  everywhere:  from  small  ferns  and  moss  at  your  feet  to  creepers 
reaching  to  the  tops  of  tlie  trees,  the  tallest  of  which  Avere  the  bluegums 
and  the  blackbutts.  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high,  and  as  close  together 
as  they  vou\d  grow.  Their  trunks  were  very  straight,  and  wo\dd  do  well 
for  ships"  masts'  or  piles.  The  next  in  height  were  the  blackwoods  and  Avattles, 
about  50  or  t)0  feet  high.  These  woods  are  useful  for  cabinet  making,  being 
very  pretty  in  the  grain  and  taking  a  beautiful  polish.  Their  blossoms 
in  the  Springtime  were  very  attractive.  Then  came  the  hazel,  its  leaves  a  dull 
green  with  veins  deeply  marked,  and  the  musk  with  leaA'es  bright  green 
on  the  ui)[)er  surface  and  silvery  underneath,  with  a  rather  i:)leasant  musk 
s'cent.  The  flowers  of  both  these  shrubs  were  not  very  attractive,  but  they 
helned  to  make  variety.  The  blanket-leaf  was  not  a  graceful  tree,  its 
special  feature  being  its  long  nai"row  leaves,  which  grew  in  liunches.  The 
under-surface  of  the  leaves  was  Avhite  and  fluffy,  and  its  yellow  flowers, 
though  not  very  pretty,  gave  out  a  strong  l)ut  not  unpleasant  smell.  The 
pittosporum  was  the  prettiest  tree  in  the  bush,  its  leaves  a  glossy  green,  and 
its  flowers  sweet  scented.  The  supple-jack  was  a  creeper,  and  a  most  beau- 
tiful sight  when  in  bloom.  It  was  to  be  seen  among  the  branches  of  the 
highest  trees  as  well  as  cree])ing  over  the  tops  of  the  loAver  ones.  The 
majestic  umbrella  w^as  a  large  kind  of  fern,  which  grew  to  a  lieight  of  about 
30  or  40  feet,  and  its  great  leaves  8  or  9  feet  long  spreading  out  in  gi'aceful 
curves  from  the  top  was  very  pretty  indeed,  especially  when  a  number 
erf  them  w^ere  seen  togfether.  There  were  a  uTmiber  of  smaller  ferns  and 
shrul)s  whose  names  I  do  not  know\  but  those  mentioned  will  show  the 
reader  that  the  collection  was  fairly  large.  Tavo  other  growths  that  must 
not  be  forgotten  are  the  wire-gi"ass  and  sword-grass:  the  former  grew  in 
matted  clusters,  and  the  latter  in  large  tussocks.  Both  were  dreaded  by 
l>ushmen  for  their  scratching  and  cutting  habits. 

In  this  great  bush  were  to  be  seen  dingoes,  bears,  wallabies,  wombats, 
kangaroo-rats,  opossums,  squirrels,  tiger-cats,  iguanas,  phityjjus.  mice.  rats, 
lizards,  snakes,  etc.:  also  king.  lory,  and  greeideek  parrots.  l)lack  and  white 
cockatoos,  jays,  grey  and  white  magpies,  lyre-birds,  satin-birds,  redbreasts, 
tomtits,  wagtails.  Avoodpeckers,  galahs,  thrushes,  Derwent  and  laughing  jack- 
asses, kingfishers,  eagle,  and  sparrow  haAvks,  mopokes,  etc.  This  menagerie 
and  aviary  was  open  for  our  inspection  and  entertainuient  free  of  charge  on 
any  day  or  nit>ht  of  the  week. 

\{  the  first  break  of  day  the  laughing  jackasses  Avould  <»)>en  with  their 
great  laughing  song — ''the  bushman's  alarm  clock":  they  seoiied  to  liaA^e  no 
end  of  jokes  to  laugh  at.  Then  the  other  birds  would  begin  to  sinu  and  play. 
The  lyre-bird  wac  the  most  anuising:  hLs  clear  musical  notes  could  be  heard 
all  day  lovio  miniickino  and  mocking  everv  other  bird  in  the  bush,  and  a  very 
pleasant  time  could  V^e  spent  listening  to  him  and  Avatchinjr  hiui  dance.  The 
jay  could  be  heard  vanining  out  his  ''two  and  two  are  four:  two  and  tAvo 
are  four."  The  harmonious  thrush,  the  parrots,  and  the  galalis  took  tlieir 
parts,  and  eA-ery  noAv  and  again  the  monkey-bear  Avould  giowl  out  his  two 
bass  notes. 

This  play  Avould  continue  all  through  the  day,  Avhen  there  would  be  an 
interval,  after  which  the  animals  would  come  on  the  staae.  and  keep  the 
]day   going   Avith   short   intervals   all    through    the   night.      The   diniroes    and 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  3J: 

bears  acted  the  heavy  parts  to  the  accoinpaninieiit  of  the  'jjossuins.  s(]uirrels, 
and  mopokes.  AVhen  yon  hear  the  weird  and  piereinir  shriek  ol"  the  >he- 
bear.  or  the  blood-eurdliji<r  howls  of  a  pack  of  din^roes  for  the  first  time, 
a  creepy  feeling  seems  to  force  itself  upon  you.  and  if  you  happen  to  be 
ridino;  along  a  pack-track  on  an  inky  dark  night,  that  feeling  is'  increased 
tenfold.  I  have  often  heard  them  while  lying  awake  at  night,  and  the 
feeling  produced  was  (piite  thrilling  enough  for  me.  Sometimes  this  per- 
formance would  l)e  accompanied  by  a  chorus  from  the  nasal  organs  of  my 
companions  in  cam|):  on  one  side  of  me  was  a  baritone,  on  the  other  a  tenor, 
and  in  the  next  tent  was  a  bass:  but  I  would  rather  listen  to  the  "j)ossnm. 
squirrel,  and  mopoke.  for  the  "time"  was  "common."  all  sixes  and  sevens,  the 
"notes"  were  "flat"  and  "sharp"  alternati\ely :  no  notice  was  taken  of  "rest 
bars,"  and  it  was  only  "natural"  that  1  should  feel  "ci'ochety."  1  never  used 
to  enjoy  those  night-pUys.  and  \va>  iilways  glad  when  tlioy  were  over. 


Recollections    and    Experiences. 


MR.  W.  McKENZIE  McHARG. 

About  the  year  1883  I  packed  my  portmanteau^ 
left  my  j^arents"  home,  and  made  a  direct  line  for 
Lancefield  railway  station.  There  I  booked  to  ^lel- 
bonrne.  and  from  there  to  Dronin.  where  I  met  some 
old  acquaintances,  wlio  piloted  me  through  to  Poo- 
wong-.  and  from  there  to  Jumbunna  East,  the  parish 
in  which  I  selected  a  half  section  of  maiden  scrub- 
land. I  was  present  at  the  "progress"  meeting  held 
in  the  district  which  changed  the  postal  name  fi'om 
Jumbunna  East  to  Moyarra. 

It  was  at  my  liouse  that  the  first  meeting  of 
the  Korumburra  to  Anderson's  Inlet  Railway  League 
took  place,  and  it  was  decided  at  that  meetiug  to 
ask  Mr.  M.  W.  Elliott  to  convene  a  puljlic  meeting, 
which  was  advertised  in  the  Drouin  papers  to  l>e  held 
at  ]Mr.  A.  W.  P^lms*  house.  The  meeting  was  largely 
attended,  and  it  was  decided  to  .send  a  deputation 
to  the  Minister  of  Railways  and  ask  for  a  survey 
MR   H   C"-'      •  through  Jumbunna  to  the  coast.     I  had  the  honour 

of  being  in  that  deputation,  and  the  late  Mr.  W.  Elms  was  the  spokesman 
for  us:  his  remarks  were  supported  by  the  late  Dr.  L.  L.  Smith.  Messrs.  F.  C. 
Mason  and  A.  C.  Groom.  M's.L.A..  and  Jas.  Buchanan,  M.L.C.  The  request 
wa.-  granted,  and  a  survey  party  .«ent  up.  and.  I  believe,  found  an  easy  grade. 

Just  about  the  same  time  coal  Avas  found  in  ^Slr.  Thoma-  Horsley's  selec- 
tion at  Outtrim.  and  the  trend  of  public  th(»ught  was  turned  towards  the 
new  coalfield.  The  raihvay  soon  followed,  but  when  it  got  to  Jumbunna. 
instead  of  it  going  south-west  from  there  to  Moyarra,  it  turned  south-east  to- 
the  Jumbunna  and  Outtrim  coalfields,  which  is  perhaps  modern  history. 

When  I  first  came  to  Poowong.  there  was  no  township  there,  and  the 
road  leading  south  came  to  a  ftdl  stop  after  about  two  miles:  tlien  it  was 
only  a  pack  track  from  clearing  to  clearing  right  on  to  ^Iv.  ]McLeod"s.  now 
known  as  Mount  Misery.  Outtrim.  These  were  the  days  of  hardships  and 
trials  for  the  pioneers,  who  were  mostly  young  men  of  good  education  and 
from  good  families.  The  mode  of  transit  in  those  days  was  horseback,  and 
provisions  were  packed  from  Grantville.  Lang  Lang.  PooAvong  and  Drouin. 
It  was  a  daily  occurrence  to  see  strings  of  pack-horses,  heavily  laden  with 
all  kinds  of  merchandise,  grass  seed,  iron  for  roofing,  and,  iii  some  cases, 
children.  On  one  occasion  I  beheld  the  gruesome  sight  of  a  pack-horse  laden 
with  a  coffin,  containing  the  dead  body  of  a  man  on  one  side,  and  a  log- 
of  wood  on  the  near  side  to  balance.  Avhile  it  was  being  conveyed  to  Bena. 
and  then  by  cart  to  Poowong. 

*  Flocke's  Camp  was  quite  an  institution  in  the  early  days  of  this  district. 
The  in-oprietor  or  boss  was  a  clever  young  German,  named  Frank  Flocke. 
who  had  a   good  command   of  English,   and   was   an   accomplished   linauist.. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


329 


He  was  actually  a  contractor  for  clearino-  the  scrub,  and   would  undertake 
contracts  worth  from  £50  to  £1000.    He  would  recruit  his  employees  in  Mel- 
bourne   from    runaway    sailors    or    foreigners,    mostly    Swedes    and    Danes, 
who  could  not  speak    English.       These    he    employed    at   a  low    wage,    and 
kept    thtMii    til!    they    knew    the   language,    when  he  would  say  they  were  no 
longer  any  good  to  him.      Flocke's  Camp  had   a   great   attraction   to  many 
because  with  such  a  number  of  men  emijloyed  he  had   to  keej)  a  slrina'  of 
pack-horses  going  and  coming  for  snjiplies.  so  his  camp  was  a  kind  of  wild 
bush  store,  where  vou  could  buy  anything  from  a  pair  of  stockman's  moles 
to  a  glass  of  "three  star  raspberry  and  water.*"  if  you  did  not  care  for  any- 
thing stronger — no  excise  officer  to  be  feared  in  the  scrub.     Sunday  was  pay 
da5\  and  numbers  of  people  turned  up:  those  who  had  been  paid  met  those 
who  were  to  be  paid,  and  nnich  harmless  merriment  took  place,  principally 
horse-riding.      It   was    Flocke's   custom  to  keep   a   numl)er  of   horses   on   the 
different  clearings  in  the  district.     These  horses  were  rounded  u)i  on  Sunday, 
and  sold  to  his  men  at  prices  ranging  from  £5  to  £10.  according  to  the  amoinit 
of  money  they  had  to  draw,  or  the  amount  of  business  knowledge  the  fellow 
had  for  a  deal.     He  would  also  be  supplied  with  a  saddle  and  bridle.     In  a 
number  of  cases  the  men  were  unable  to  work  out  the  debt :  they  took  £2  or  £3, 
and  gave  in  the  horse,  saddle  and  bridle,  and  cleared  out  Avith  the  knowledge 
that  all  they  got  for  their  work  was  experience  as  axemen,  and  a  knowledge 
of  langniage.  so  perhaps  their  loss  was  made  good  by  their  accomplishments. 
Well.  I  haA-e  seen  some  amusing  sights  when  the  foreign  "tars*'  were  saddling 
up  on  Sunday  afternoons.     I  had  charge  at  that  time  of  Messrs.  Siting  l^ros. 
and  Clancy's  selections,  and  Flocke  had  a  £1000  jol)  from  Mr.  John  Spring. 
The  horses  Avere  rounded  up  in  our  yards,  and  the  saddling  began,  and  so 
did  the  fun.  for  none  of  them  could  ride.     One  young  (Jerman.  about  ()ft. 
in   height,   and   as   lithe   as   a    whip-handle,   was   "skiting"   all    the    week    in 
"pidgin"  English  that  he  would  ride  any  horse  on  the  place.     Well,  Sunday 
came  i-ound.  and  a  thoroughlired  mare,  called  "Sauer-kraut."  bred  by  ^fr.   .V. 
Pobjoy.  l)y  Timothy,  who  ran  seconrl  to  Bi-iseis  for  the  Melbourne  Cuj).  was 
selected  to  test  the  riding  cajiacitie.-^  of  this  \()uiig  Cierman.   He  could  ride  a  bit 
and  was  no  "mug"  on  a  horse,  but  "Saner-kiaut"  was  a  bit  of  a  Mallee  whirl- 
Avind  at  that  time.    HoA\-ever.  she  was  saddled  u]i.  and  Ave  were  all  assembled. 
She  ga\'e  a  few  SAvinging  bucks  and  threw  him.    He  Avas  none  the  Avorse;  the 
ground  Avas  soft  and  the  grass  Avas  high.     She  was  caught,  and  he  lined  up 
mournfully  a  second  time,  and  mounted.   She  bucked  again  and  thi-ew  hiui.    lie 
sprang  to  his  feet,  and  Avith  a  look  of  desi)aii'  on  hi-  face,  yelled  out  :  "Xo 

moi-e  \ill  I  seet  on  the  horSc."     She  was  cauglil   again,  and  (his  (iuic  a 

lad  al)out  seventeen,  named  Tonnny  ,I(»yce.  Avho  could  ride  wilh  the  best,  took 
chai'ge  of  ''Siiuei'-k'raut."  and  wliethei'  hei'  ])revi()us  Itucics  had  tired  hei\ 
or  whcthei'  >lic  knew  Toinniy  \\;i.-  \\cr  uiiistcf.  she  did  iinl  Ituck.  but  pranced 
aAvay  among  the  rest   foi-  (heir  Snn(la\-  aCternoon's  ride. 

"  ^^'!lere   excry    pro-pee|    pleases." 

Xo  matter  in  whicli  direction  I  lookeil.  ;dl  \\a>  iuos(  as(onishing  and 
bewildering  foi-est.  The  majestic  tall  (i'ee>  of  the  extensixc  eiicalyplns 
family.  Avith  their  clean  cut  |)oles  towered  aloft  into  (he  clear  blue  slcy. 
They  were  surrounded  with  a  wealth  of  beautiful  undergrowth,  in  Avhich 
blackAvood.  musk,  hazel,  and  blanlcetAvood  mingled  with  (he  magnificent  (ree 
ferns:  the  tint.-^  of  (heir  various  foliages  blending  in  complete  harmony  Avith 
the  bloom  of  (he  supplejack,  ch^nnlis.  nni-k.  Clii-L<( mas-tree  and  other  flower- 
ing shrubs.  The  song  of  the  lyre-bird  and  other  native  choris(ers  rising  from 
the  secluded   liullies   made  delightful   uieloilv.    The  senses  were  charmed  with 


330  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

dciic'ioas  perfume  of  lloweriiig  s^hrubs.  and  in  the  midst  of  such  a  harmonious 
wene  of  beaut}'  I  f(>rj2;ot  for  tlie  time  the  stem  necessity  of  my  presence  in  this 
enchantiuL!-  Kden.  Hut.  alas,  to-day  there  only  remains  but  the  vivid  recollec- 
tion of  it  all. 

In  the  fore^oin<r  1  have  endea\oured  to  convey  an  idea  of  the  beautiful, 
l)ul  now  the  other  side  of  the  picture  is  presented.  Just  imagine  being 
cau»iht  in  a  storm  at  niuht  on  one  of  the  pack-tracks  leading  "  south,"  as 
this  place  (Korumburra.  Moyarra,  Jumbunna.  and  Bena)  was  then  called. 
You  had  left  Poowong  cattle  sale-yards  in  threatening  weather,  hurrying 
along  through  the  nnul  and  slush.  The  wind  is  l)lowing  furiously,  the  track 
getting  darker  and  darker  till  at  last  a  murky  darkness,  which  you  can  almost 
feel,  has  set  in,  and  which  brings  with  it  a  solitary  feeling  of  loneliness  that 
is  appalling.  The  rain  begins'  to  fall,  the  wind  increases  its  violence,  Blended 
with  the  uproar  of  the  storm  are  the  weird  and  lonely  calls  of  the  mopoke 
and  other  nocturnal  birds,  while  the  hoarse  croak  of  the  mountain  'possum, 
the  dull  thudding  of  the  Avallaby  as  he  jumps  away,  the  almost  human  like 
cry  of  the  koala,  native  or  monkey  bear,  the  pure  bred  dingoe's  piercing  and 
disconcerting  howl  complete  the  eerie  chorus,  Avhich  is  occasionally  over- 
Avhehned  by  the  thundering  roar  of  some  mighty  monarch  of  the  scrub  hurled 
from  his  high  estate,  and  uprooted  by  the  violence  of  the  storm,  crashing 
through  sapling  and  sucker,  and  bringing  one  or  two  of  his  neighbours  with 
him,  he  lies  broken  and  splintered.  It  giA'es  you  the  "creeps."  The  perilous 
thought  rises'  in  the  mind  at  once.  Is  the  track  blocked?  Will  I  get  home 
to-night  to  relieve  the  fears  of  the  dear  ones  who  are  keeping  anxious  vigil? 
But  favoured  by  Providence,  your  track  is  clear  and  the  welcome  clank  of 
the  stirrup  ircms  announces  your  arrival.  The  faithful  collie,  the  occupant's 
only  companion,  springs  from  tlie  hearth,  and  barks  a  joyous  welcome.  You 
are  relieved  to  enter  the  log  calnn.  where  mutual  greetings,  warmth  and 
pleasure  relax  the  tension  of  the  aAvful  journey'. 

The  road  from  the  ])resent  Jumbunna  township,  which  was  formerly 
Mr.  J.  Glew's'  selection,  towards  Anderson's  Inlet,  was  16  feet  wide,  and  went 
over  the  top  of  the  hill,  now  known  as  Mount  Miseryl  and  through  the 
present  Outtrim  township,  which  had  Ijeen  selected  by  Dr.  Birney.  From 
Jumbunna  to  Mrs.  J.  Olden's  selection,  the  whole  length  of  the  road  16  feet 
AAnde  Avas  completed  by  the  settlers  in  about  six  weeks'  time  without  any  grant 
or  aid  or  other  nnniicipal  assislance.  At  Mrs.  Olden's.  a  bridge  was  thrown 
across  the  Pf>wlett  River.  It  was  a  very  substantial  structure,  and  did  duty 
for  Kjveral  years,  notwithstanding  that  the  sharp  axes  of  the  settlers  were  the 
only  tools  used  in  its  construction,  and  not  a  nail  fu'  a  spike  was  driven  in  it. 

About  the  same  time  Mr.  M.  Mcl.eod,  Avho  has  left  the  district,  and  Mr. 
P.  Shingler.  of  Pound  Creek,  w%o  then  owned  a  selection  where  the  present 
township  of  Silkstone  now  is,  had  a  most  trying  and  dangerous  expedition. 
They  tried  to  find  a  track  across  to  Leongatha  through  the  present  Ryeburn 
estate  below  Outtrim.  In  those  days  part  of  the  land  which  now  comprises  the 
estate  was  open  plain,  but  in  others  was  covered  by  a  dense  growth  of  tea- 
tree,  prickly  mimosa  (prickly  moses).  The  open  patches  could  be  plainly 
seen  from  Mount  Mi.sery.  They  expected  to  penetrate  the  inteivening  ]>atches 
of  scrub  on  horseback  and  reach  their  destination  without  dillifultv.  ^^'hen 
setting^  out  upon  .such  undertakings  as  these,  no  one  neglectctl  to  provide 
himself  with  a  pocket  compass,  and  on  this  occasion  it  proved  the  salvation 
of  the  two  honoured  and  respected  members  of  the  community.  After 
battling  all  day.  it  became  apparent  that  thev  could  not  reach  Leongatha, 
but   v.-ere   fagged   out   and    lo.st    in    the   dense  'undergrowth    of   the   swamp.s. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  331 

As  their  friends  did  not  expect  them  l)nck  till  next  day.  their  absence  at 
nio'ht  cansed  no  uneasiness,  but  they  had  a  tryin<>-  time  in  the  cold  watches 
of  tlje  ni<rht.  Xext  mornint>-  their  striio;o;le  beii'an  airain.  Findinjr  that  their 
horses  Avere  more  encumbrance  than  assistance,  they  unloaded  and  abandoned 
them.  With  the  aid  of  the  comjiass.  they  fought  theii-  way  on  foot  through 
the  scrub  back  to  tlie  camp,  and  arrived  more  dead  than  alive.  The  horses 
Avere  never  Iieard  (xf  again,  and  it  was  concluded  that  they  had  perished 
in  some  of  the  swamps  or  morasses  that  existed  between  Kyeburn  and  Mr. 
McXanghton's  land.  The  big  drain  in  the  Kyeburn  Estate  now  accounts 
for  the  disappearance  of  this  morass.  (3n  another  occasion  a  pack-horse 
broke  away  from  Mr.  Peter  Nielsen  on  the  [)lains  and  galloi)ed  into  the 
scrub,  entei'ing  the  swamp  in  ^Ir.  P.  Shingler's  holding,  and  was  lost  for  ever. 

There  is  very  little  to  Avrite  about  the  Catholic  Church  in  the  earlj' 
days  of  this  district,  as  the  s])iiitual  needs  of  the  adhei-ents  were  attended  to 
either  at  Drouin  or  AVarragul.  Mass  was  first  celebrated  at  Bona  about  the 
year  1887.  and  at  ^Ir.  Eccles",  "Hazel  Dean."  about  the  same  year.  Then 
after  that  at  ]Moyarra  and  at  Bena  at  varying  periods  till  the  line  Avas 
opened.  Mass  Avas  then  celebrated  re*:ularly  at  the  ^rechanics*  Hall.  Korum- 
burra.  A  movement  Avas  soon  started  to  build  St.  Joseph's  Chuich.  Korum- 
burra,  which  Avas  completed  soon  after  the  railAvay  line  Avas  through.  Outtrim 
folloAved.  and  the  Loch  chtn-ch  Avas  built  also,  the  clergyman  coming  from 
Dandenong  for  the  first  fcAV  years.  Avhen  Korumburra  Avas  formed  into  a 
parish  and  a  i)arish  ])riest  Avas  a]ii)ointed.  A  notahle  instance  of  the  diffi- 
culties that  Catholics  had  to  put  up  with  in  early  days  is  demonstrated  by 
the  folloAving  narrative.  A  young  man  was  fatally  injured  when  road  clenfing 
at  Moyarra.  l)v  a  limb  of  a  tree  falling  on  his  head.  He  was  not  killed  o>it- 
right.  but  lingered  for  a  Aveek.  It  Avas  necessary  to  have  a  priest  to  give 
the  man  Holy  Chnrch  fortification,  and,  the  case  being  urgent,  a  horseman 
was  despatched  to  AVarragnl  on  a  stormy  September  night.  The  priest,  a 
young  man.  Avas  sick  in  bed  Avith  a  cold,  but  he  got  up  and  started  for 
Moyarra.  arriving  there  at  daylight.  He  administei-ed  the  consolations  of 
the  Church  to  the  dying  man.  and  returned  to  AVai-ragul,  Avent  to  bed.  and 
was  dead  himself  in  about  three  days.  His  heroic  self-sacrifice  Avas  the 
nduiii-atioii  of  all  creeds  and  classes.  ]  forget  Ihe  ]iriest's  name.  bii(  1  met  him 
at  Miivai'ra  on  that  nolablc-  morning. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 


MR.  R.  CORNALL. 

Land  settlement  first  took  place  ai-oimd  Kar- 
Jeila  in  the  years  1882  and  1883.  The  original 
settlers  in  that  district  were  ]SIessrs.  Dnncan  Clerk, 
A.  McK.  Salmon,  Tlios.  Xicholson.  Geo.  and  John 
Western.  M.  Holland.  John  Brydon,  James  Brydon. 
A.  Gardiner,  William  and  John  Twyford,  Percy 
AVilliams.  Hugh  Eoss.  Thomas  Howe.  George 
McKay.  Johii  and  Stephen  Eitchie.  Eobert  Cornall, 
and  ISiiss  J.  Mackay.  Most  of  those  mentioned,  or 
tJieir  families,  are  still  on  the  farms. 

Looking  round  the  district  now.  it  is  hard  to 
realise  the  difficulties  which  the  pioneers  had  to 
contend  with.  Owing  to  the  dense  scrub  and  over- 
liead  timl)er  the  tracks  were  in  a  particularly  had 
state  during  the  earlier  years,  and  T  remember  dis- 
tinctly that  it  was  the  usual  thing  for  roads  or 
tracks  to  be  bad  as  late  as  Xovember,  and  by  the 
end  of  March  they  Avere  bad  again;  as  a  result, 
MR.  cl.  CORNALL  ^^^^   pack-horse  was   the   only   means   of  transport, 

and  with  flour  at  30/-  a  bag,  and  packing  at  4/6  per  load,  it  made  living 

very  expensive. 

Travelling  in  those  days  was  also  a  serious  matter,  as  it  was  generally 
a  case  of  walhiug.  or  at  best  riding  a  horse  at  a  walkinir  pace,  as  it  was  not 
possible  to  get  wheels  along  any  of  the  tracks.  In  one  case  I  know  of.  a 
selector  brought  his  wife  in  on  horseback  and  the  familv  in  boxes  strapped 
on  a  ])ack-horse.  Letters  came  to  Kardella  partlv  from'  Drouin  and  partly 
from  Mirboo  Xorth.  Those  for  the  west  portion"  of  Kardella  district  cam'e 
through  Drouin  and  the  eastern  portion  through  Mirboo  Xorth. 

With  the  tracks  as  they  were  at  that  time  the  social  side  of  life  was 
almost  totally  neglected,  and  this  was  particularly  hard  on  our  women  folk, 
foi-  while  the  men  had  to  go  out  sometimes  on  'business  or  for  provisions, 
the  wome?i  folk  .-pent  mo.st  of  their  time  about  the  home  and  on  the  clearir.<T. 
which  was  completely  shut  in  by  an  a]:>parentlv  solid  wall  of  irreen  timl,er* 
I  think  It  IS  only  one  who  actually  saw  the  trials  which  our  women  folk 
went  through  who  can  fully  appreciate  their  l)raverv  and  fortitude  in  the  wav 
they  bore  up  again.st  the  deadly  silence  and  solitude  of  the  big  bush. 

In  case  of  ju-cident.  which,  owing  to  the  nature  of  the  work,  was  rather 
fr^qnent.  the  difficulty  of  jrettmg  a  patient  out  to  civilisation  was  somethino- 
to  be  remembered,  especially  by  the  patient.  Some  of  the  idea  of  transpoi^ 
may  be  obtained  from  the  fact  that  a  resident  of  the  one-chain  road,  Mr. 
George  A^  estern.  was  injured  by  a  falling  spar,  and  it  was  decided  to  send 
him  to  Drouin.  T^  e  started  from  Twyford's  house  (now  Mr.  J.  J.  HuttonV) 
at  noon  on  Wednesday  with  two  hor.ses  hooked  to  a  .sledffe  on  which  was  laid 
a  mattre.ss,  and  on  that  the  patient   lav  covered   with  a   tent   sheet  to  keep 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  333 

the  mud  from  splashing  on  him.  Before  a  mile  and  a  lialf  had  been  travelled 
it  was  found  that  the  horses  could  not  proceed  OAvina-  to  the  boooy  nature  of 
the  track,  and  two  of  the  party.  Messrs.  T.  Lanev  and  T.  Nicholson,  rode 
back  for  bullocks.  They  made  g'ood  time.  too.  for  before  we  had  gone  another 
mile  and  a  half,  they  overtook  us  with  the  bullocks  in  the  yoke,  which  were 
then  hooked  to  the  sledge,  and  (xeorge  then  rfoated  over  the  mud  with  greater 
ease,  as  the  team  went  more  steadily.  East  Foowong  wa«>  reached  that  night. 
Kext  morning  a  buggy  was  procured,  and  Ave  arrived  at  Drouin  at  3  p.m.,  and 
the  Melbourne  train  was  caught  at  5  p.m.,  and  the  Melbourne  Hospital  reached 
at  11.30  that  night  (Thursday).  I  am  pleased  to  say  that  the  ]Datient  came 
back  all  right. 

For  the  first  fcAv  years  the  Winter's  work  Avas  scrub-cutting,  worth  £1 
per  acre,  and  the  Summer  Avork  Avas  picking  up  and  burning  oft  after  the 
burn — often  a  very  expensiA'e  matter — and  if  a  selector  Avas  unfortiuiate 
enougli  to  get  a  bad  burn,  the  ])icking  up  was  a  A'ery  heavy  ttusk.  Fencing 
and  building  occupied  any  time  that  could  be  spared:  a  l)ark  hut  Avas  gener- 
ally the  domicile  for  the  first  year  or  so.  then  came  paling,  oi-  slab  buildings 
with  shingle  roofs. 

Great  heart  A\'as  put  into  the  selectors'  Avhen  it  became  known  that  the 
Great  Southern  Raihva}'^  Avas  likely  to  pass  fairly  close  to  the  district,  and 
when,  in  1884.  the  late  Mr.  W.  G.  Field,  C.E.,  ran  what  was  ImoAvn  as 
the  flying  survey  along  Coalition  Creek,  hope  beat  high,  as  those  Avho  were 
farthest  out  from  civilisation  Avould  be  in  front,  and  Avhen  Mr.  (irillin.  C.E., 
ran  the  permanent  sur\'ey  in  188()  and  l.s87.  expectation  reached  high-water 
mark.  The  dilKculty  of  the  Avork  Avill  be  ]5artly  understood  Avhen  it  is  >tated 
that  Griffin's  party  took  neai'ly  two  years  to  get  the  surxey  Hue  iVoni  Koniin- 
burra  to  Leongatha. 

Anything  grown  liere  in  those  days  that  could  not  walk  out  on  it>  own 
feet  had  to  be  sent  to  Melbourne  by  Avay  of  Drouin  \>y  l)ull()ck  waggon: 
needless  to  say,  very  little  pi-oduce.  except  l»utter.  was  sent  out  that  way. 

In  1884  my  In-other  dim  and  I  cut  a  miie  and  a  half  of  track  t<»  gel  into 
our  clearing,  as  Ave  had  only  a  l)lazed  track  before  that.  In  issr.  (  1  thiidc),  a 
post-office  Avas  opened  at  Mi'.  John  Bi-ydon's,  on  the  one-chain  road:  and  we 
cut  a  track  to  it:  in  1888,  Avhen  the  railway  line  was  in  proces>  of  making,  we 
cut  another  track  towards  where  Korunibui'i'a  now  is,  as  wc  wcic  t(»Id  l)y 
Mr.  Griffin  that  a  station  was  to  be  made  there:  altogether  we  cut  al»out  six 
miles  of  ti-ack  through  tlic  >ci'ul). 

The  fiist  Korumburia  churcii  \\a^  liuilt  l)y  a  woi'king  bei'  of  tlie  settlers, 
organised  by  Mi'.  James  Smith,  home  nii--^ionary.  in  issiC).  wlio-c  circuii  ex- 
tended from  AA'aratah  Bay  to  Poowdiig.  i'hc  (•hur<'h  wa>^  bnih  on  hind  owned 
by  Mr.  George  Lancey  (now  ownc(|  by  .Mr.  John  \\'cslcrn).  a>  at  that  linic  llie 
one-chain  road  Avas'  the  ccMtrc. 

Ill  1M»()  wc  wci'c  tohl  that  a  station  wouM  be  made  at  Kardi'lia  if  a  road 
could  be  got  to  connect  the  station  with  the  one-chain  road:  so  a  parly  of 
about  ten  members  set  to  worlc  to  lind  and  blaze  the  |)i'escnt  road  from  ^^'all('r 
Bi'vdon's  tf)  Kardella,  and  as  the  road  wa^  sati>ract<iry  to  ijic  Department 
the  station  was  establishecl. 

In  Isi'l  the  first  sawiuill  plant  was  put  down  by  .Messrs.  W.  I^gan  :ind 
G.  Pari',  on  the  noith  side  of  tiie  railwa\-   line  at    Kardella. 


»»4 


RECOLLECTIONS  ANE»  EXPERIENCES. 


oi.Ii    'IKACK    'i'lIUoT^;!!     I'.k;    TKKK'.       FAIUr.AXK 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  335 

In  November.  lsl»l.  the  railway  line  was  opened  for  trafHc.  and  the 
Kardella  post  office  was  established  at  the  station,  which  was  intended  by 
the  Commissioners  to  be  called  "Brydon.*"  but  the  name  was  changed  to 
Kardella,  which  means  opossum.  As  the  railway  was  opened  to  Konanhurra 
abont  two  years  before  it  was  opened  to  Kardella.  the  name  of  the  post  office 
at  ]Mr.  John  Brydon's  was  changed  from  Korumburra  (wliich  it  originally 
held,  from  the  name  of  the  Parish,  and  which  was  originalh'  establi.-^hed 
on  McDonald's  Track  under  the  name  of  Korumburra)  to  Gientress;  and 
when  the  Kardella  post-office  was  established  the  Gientress  post-office  was 
closed. 

On  March  sth.  1892.  Inspector  Dennant,  of  the  Education  Department, 
visited  Kardella.  at  the  invitation  of  a  number  of  residents,  with  a  view  to 
arrange  for  the  establishment  of  a  school,  and  a  meeting  of  parents  was  held 
in  the  station  house,  where  the  Inspector  told  us  that  we  would  have  a  much 
better  chance  of  obtaining  a  school  if  there  was  a  buikling  available:  there- 
fore, the  residents  l>estirred  themselves,  and  the  result  of  their  energies  was 
the  Kardella  Hall,  which  was  finished  in  1893.  and  the  school  was  oi)ened 
in  the  Imilding  under  the  charge  of  Mr.  Flude.  who  was  succeeded  after  a 
few  months  by  Mr.  Robert  Patterson,  as  head  teacher,  whose  roll  containe<l  the 
names  of  nearly  100  scholars. 

When  the  railway  line  was  opened.  saAvmills  Avere  started,  and  population 
increased  round  the  railway  station,  mostly  consisting  of  sawmill  hands, 
timber-splitters,  horse  and  bullock  drivers,  etc. 

The  first  storekeeper  in  Kardella  was  Mr.  Geo.  Koughead,  who  opened 
in  February.  Iis92,  and  sold  out  his  business  to  Mr.  Alfred  Gawler  about 
March,  1898;  he,  in  turn,  sold  out  to  Mr.  G.  H.  Murray  about  March,  1894. 

The  saAv-mill  owners  in  and  about  Kardella  were  Messrs.  Egan  and  Parr, 
McCoU  Bros.,  H.  H.  Herman.  W.  Pichards.  and  A.  Arbuthnot. 

I  have  no  means  of  ascertaining  the  number  of  trucks  of  timber  thai 
were  sent  awa}'  ever}'  month,  but  it  will  be  easil}'  understood  that  it  was 
very  large,  and  that  with  the  number  of  hands  employed  on  the  mills,  and 
the  splitters  in  the  bush,  the  township  presented  a  lively  appearance. 

The  village  settlements  were  established  in  LS98-4. 

The  following  i>  an  extract   I'loin  a  ^toi'c  bill  of  Noveuilier.  1S,S9: — 

One    bag    of    Hour    (200    lbs.)     ..  ':l      II  0 

TO   lbs.   sugar,   ^'^d.   per   lb. 1        1  H 

One    case    kerosene I        o  u 

10    lbs.    tea    at    Is.    8(1.    per    lb OK".  ,s 

.\   pack'-lioisc  load  <d'  two  cwl.  \\a>  cliaigccl  ;il   4.-..  CkJ. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  E.  SHEEPWAY. 

The  second  week  in  July,  thirty  years  ago  this 
"Winter,  my  old  and  esteemed  friend,  Mr.  Joseph 
White.  Senr..  and  myself  came  by  coach  from  Dan- 
denong  to  Grantvilie  to  peg  out  land  in  what  is 
now  called  the  Krowera  district,  and  found  every- 
thing very  rough  and  expensive.  We  were  sup- 
posed to  stick  our  pegs  in  the  four  corners  of  the 
lilocks  we  Avere  applying  for,  but  they  were  not  sur- 
veyed, and  the  scrub  was  impenetrable,  so  we  stuck 
tliem  all  in  at  Mr.  Walker's  place,  about  a  mile 
above  the  Bass  bridge,  vrhere  there  was  (juite  a 
collection  of  pegs,  sticking  all  in  a  group.  When 
we  crossed  the  Bass  River  our  guide  said.  "Xow 
we  are  in  the  land  floAving  with  milk  and  honey.'' 
AVe  could  not  see  an}^  about  then,  but  the  milk  has 
flowed  there  jivetty  considerable  since. 

We  came  l)ack  in  the  folloA\  ing  Xovember  to 
get  some  scrub  cut.  We  started  with  four  men 
from  (xrantville.  and  camped  at  a  settler's  about  half 

way.   and   slept   on   his  verandah,   and   had    fried    wallaby    for   breakfast — it 

did  not  go  down  too  Avell. 

AVe  had  to  pay  our  guide  £5  for  each  block  that  we  took  up.  and  he 
was  supposed  to  pilot  us  on  to  it.  but  the  blocks  not  being  surveyed,  and  no 
track  in.  Ave  started  and  cut  a  pack-track  thi-ough  the  standing  scrub  for 
three  or  four  miles,  and  started  cutting  the  scrub,  on  the  chance  that  we 
were  on  the  right  blocks,  and  Avhen  it  was  surveyed  Ave  had  made  no  mistake. 

Being  strange  and  ucav  chums,  Ave  got  men  that  coidd  only  cut  scrub  in 
front  of  a  hmg  beer  in  the  "pub"  at  Grantvilie,  and,  of  course,  progress  Avas 
Aery  slow.  Ijut  we  managed  to  get  down  about  40  acres. 

I  Avent  OA^er  to  see  Mr.  L.  Stewart.  Seiir.,  and  had  a  look  at  his  clearing. 
and  it  Avas  a  mass  of  standing  bare  poles.  He  had.  I  think,  cut  to  nine 
inches  in  diameter,  so  Ave  decided  to  cut  to  eighteen  inches.  I  am  afraid 
to  say  Avhat  that  40  acres  cost  us.  Supplies  Avere  A^ery  difficult  to  get  in. 
At  first  BA-erything  Avas  l^d.  per  lb.  to  pack  in  from  the  Bass  bridge,  no 
matter  Avhat  it  Avas,  but  later  on  Ave  got  it  to  Id.  per  lb.,  at  Avhich  it^stood 
for  some  considerable  time.  Butcher's  meat  Avas  the  Avorst  to  get.  In  a 
camp  of  six  men  Ave  had  to  put  up  Avith  sheep  18  lbs.  the  carcase,  and  nearly 
as  old  as  the  youngast  of  our  party;  that  sort  that  you  can  read  the  ucavs- 
paper  through.  The  beef  Ave  got  Avas  very  little  better.  An  enterprising 
young  felloAv  in  the  neighbourhood  Avanted'to  supply  the  camp  Avith  wallabv 
at  1{t  per.  lb.  We  asked  him  if  he  could  not  throAv'  in  a  bear  or  two.  or  ait 
iguana  for  a  change.  l)ut  Avhether  the  price  Avas  too  hiiih.  or  our  stomachs 
were  too  particular— it  is  so  many  years  ago  that  I  foro-et— l)ut  anvhoAv  Ids 
offer  Avas  declined  Avith  thanks. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  337 

The  only  place  we  could  get  stores  from  was  Grant ville,  and  if  the 
boat  got  wind-jammed  (which  was  often  the  case)  you  had  to  Avait  until 
she  did  get  in  before  you  could  get  all  the  stores  you  wanted,  for  the  store- 
keeper was  bound  to  be  out  of  some  of  them. 

The  track  in  here^was  very  bad  for  seA'eral  years.  One  day  I  and  another 
man  Avere  riding  in  when  we  came  upon  a  man  (I  think  he  worked  for 
Mr.  E.  X.  Scott)  lying  in  a  spot  called  the  Glue-pot.  He  had  one  arm  on 
the  bottom,  to  keep  his  head  from  going  under,  and  the  other  outstretched 
above  his  head,  with  a  bottle  of  brandy  clasped  m  his  hand,  and  was  calling 
out,  "One  more  drink  lie  fore  I  die."  But.  unfortunately,  he  had  not  drawn 
the  cork  before  he  took  the  header.  We  rescued  the  bottle  and  then  the  man 
— both  recovered. 

Cocksfoot  seed  was  5^d.  per  lb.  in  Melbourne,  then  boat  freight  to  Grant- 
A'ille,  then  bullock  waggon  to  Goding's  shed,  after  which  it  had  to  be  packed 
at  Id.  per  lb.  on  the  gi-ound.  We  s'owed  11  lbs.  of  ryegrass,  9  lbs.  of  cocks- 
foot, and  '2  lbs.  of  white  clover  per  acre. 

The  first  year  we  sowed  40  acres,  and  the  second  year  250  acres.  I 
have  seen  grass  that  was  sown  in  the  Autumn  up  and  in  seed  in  the  first 
week  in  August,  that  was  when  the  clearing  was  surrounded  with  scrub; 
the  seasons  are  quite  different  now  to  what  they  were  then.  After  the  first 
year,  neighbours  came  in  all  round  us.  but  it  was  some  time  before  we  saw 
who  our  neighbours  were  on  the  north  side,  as  we  had  nothing  but  a 
surve}'  line  to  go  Ijy.  but  in  time  Mr.  K.  X.  Scott  and  mvself  blazed  and 
Oldened  a  track  going  north,  and  that  now  is  our  main  road  to  the  railway 
station. 

Ghock-and-log  fences  were  erected  mostly  then,  as  taldng  the  logs  ofT 
the  l^nd  helped  to  clear  it.  and  they  made  a  very  fair  fence  for  a  fpw  yeais 
until  wire  could  be  got  on  to  the  around. 


Recollections   and   Experiences 

MR.  F.  P.  ELMS. 


laiiil   when  I  came  here 


My  first  introduction  to  this  part  of  GippsJand 
was  in  the  year  1885,  and  though  not  able  to  pose  as 
an  old  pioneer  of  the  first  rank,  I  have  seen  the  coun- 
try transformed  from  a  virgin  forest  to  its  present 
condition  of  prosperity  and  productivity.  The  criuse 
of  our  family's  selection  of  land  here  was  through 
my  brother  Arthur,  having  studied  at  Dookie 
Agricultural  College,  and  wishing  to  start  on 
liis  own  account,  was  told  of  the  bplendid  virgin 
forest  land  at  Poowong  by  the  late  Dr.  Elmes,  of 
Berwick,  a  friend  of  my  father's.  The  doctor  was 
public  vaccinator  of  the  district,  and  used  to  make 
periodical  trips  to  Cranbourne,  and  thence  as  far  as 
Poowong,  and  thus  spied  out  the  promised  land. 
After  a' trip  dow'n  here  to  inspect  for  himself,  my 
brother,  and  also  my  father,  selected  two  blocks 
in  Juml)unna  P'^ast,  on  one  of  which  I  now  reside. 
I  was  too  young  to  select  at  that  time.  ]My  brother's 
l)lock  had  a  small  clearing,  about  2U  acres,  of  grass 
first. 


I  left  Beaconsfield  by  the  morning  train,  and  arriving  at  Drouin,  took 
^"\'n»tV  coach  to  Poowong,  arriving  there  at  6.30  p.m.  It  was  in  the  month 
of  February.  188.5.  and  the  dust  was  .se^■eral  inches  deep  on  the  coach  road. 
Being  met  Ijy  my  brother  Avith  a  horse,  we  rode  down  the  South  Track.  First 
we  rode  through  the  cleared  country  near  PooAvong  for  about  tv;o  miles,  and 
then  entered  the  forest  in  a  track  just  wide  enough  to  a\()id  the  trees  and 
hazels.  l)ut  very  rough,  just  as  the  mud  of  last  Winter  had  dried  in  huge 
mounds.  Logs  had  just  a  gap  cut  in  them,  and  the  horses  liad  to  jump  or 
step  across  what  was  left.  Stumps  had,  of  course,  been  left  in  the  ground 
and  the  roots  being  laid  bare  by  the  traffic,  nuide  travelling  rougher  still, 
and  consequently  very  slow.  The  tracks  kept  to  the  ridges  instead  of  running 
along  the  sidings,  and  when  at  the  end  of  the  ridge  it  dropped  steeplv  to  the 
creeks  below:  these  had  either  to  be  jumped  or  a  rough  little  brid'ge  of  a 
few  hazel  sticks  laid  on  two  beams  would  span  it.  Here  and  there  we 
entered  the  clearings  of  the  selectors  en  route,  and  following  a  bi-idle  track 
winding  across  them  among  the  stumps  and  logs,  would  again  enter  the 
scrul>  track,  and  so  rm  till  we  got  to  Mr.  John  Glew's  homesteadT"Cora  Lynn." 
at  tlie  present  site  of  Jumbunna.  This  was  a  very  advanced  selection  at  that 
period,  owing  to  the  pluck  and  push  of  the  owner.  He  had  a  fairly  large 
area  under  grass,  was  running  sheep,  and  had  a  brick  house  to  reside  in".  This 
house,  also  a  log  dairy  with  shingle  roof,  still  stands  as  a  landmark,  and  was 
remarkable  m  its  history.  The  lime,  roofing  iron,  doors,  windows,  etc  were 
brought  on  pack-horses  from  Grant ville.  and  the  brickmakers.  who  made  the 
bricks  on  the  ground,  came  down  from  BriinsAvick,  where  Mr.  (ik'w's  father 
had  lirick  kilns. 


RECOLLECTIOXS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  .-iriO 

In  giving  my  iniprehis^iuns  of  the  cuuntiv  on  inv  tiisi  sight  of  it.  1  mii.st 
mention  the  condition  of  Poowong  at  that  time.  AUhough  liigh  vSunniier  and 
dry  everywliere  else,  here  wa^  green  grass  in  abundance,  coel^sfoot.  mostly 
\rith  clover  and  a  little  ryegrass;  the  cocksfoot  taking  naturally  to  the  loo.se 
soil  and  bearing  out  its  characteristic  (juality  of  growing  among  the  greatest 
mixture  of  debris  and  brandies,  and  holding  its  OAvn.  Scotch  thistles  abounded 
in  plenty,  especially  <m  the  roadside.  The  selectors  cleared  their  land, 
erected  a  log  fence  on  their  roadside  boundar}',  and  solved  grass  to  that  fence. 
Out  on  the  road  where  the  cleansing  fires  had  burnt  the  ground  bare,  except 
the  fallen  saplings  and  logs,  the  thistles  grew  thick  and  high  as  one's  head 
on  horseback.  Where  the  seed  came  from  was  a  mystery.  Shedding  their 
.seed  and  down,  the  latter  lay  on  the  ground  like  snow,  a  foot  or  more  deej), 
and  in  the  heat  would  ignite  like  powder  if  lit.  Any  jjatches  of  burnt  ground 
not  sown  at  once  with  grass-seed  would  become  covered  with  these  thistles. 

The  immense  trees,  dead  a  few  years  now,  towered  skvwards,  and  by 
their  numbers  blocked  the  distant  view,  except  where  by  chance  a  gap 
occurred  to  allow  a  i)eep  out  beyond.  The  scene  from  Poowong,  which  is 
on  a  high  elevation,  towards  the  South  and  East  was  ovei-  the  forest,  and 
the  day  I  arrived  there,,  being  a  good  burning  day,  cohmiiis  of  smoke  in 
various  places  told  of  the  selectors  taking  advantage  to  clear  the  patches  of 
scrub  cut  during  the  Winter,  and  lying  till  now  to  dry.  The  town  of  Poowong 
consisted  of  the  ptiblic-house.  store,  post-office,  blacksmith's  and  other  build- 
ings in  the  one  street,  and  behind  and  beyond,  the  grass  paddocks  green 
and  luxuriant,  hastily  fenced,  and  full  of  standing  and  fallen  trees,  amongst 
which  grazed  the  cattle,  full  and  contented  in  this  land  of  i^lenty.  The 
arrival  of  the  mail  coach  was.  of  course,  (he  event  of  the  day.  and  the  various 
passengers  being  met  l)y  their  respecti\(^  ])arties  ami  making  preparations 
for  their  ride  through  the  i)ack-t racks,  made  the  town  i)Msy.  and  added  to 
the  sign  of  pros])erity  and  ho|)efulness  of  the  j)lace.  This  was 
the  day  on  which  the  stores  were  delivered  on  the  Soiilh  Track, 
and  when  I  and  my  lu'otiiei-  wei'c  half  way  down  we  were  o\er- 
tak'cn  in  Mi-.  Slew's  clearing  by  .\Ii'.  K.  Dixon,  wliosi'  brother, 
]\Ir.  .las.  I)ix(;n.  kej)t  (he  Poowong  store.  riic  (irs(  we  knew  was 
the  crack  of  a  whip  in  (he  truck  in  (h(>  sciub  behind  iis.  and  i)resently 
appeared  at  full  (ro(  a  ^(i-ing  of  (ixc  pack-horses,  laden  on  eiich  -idc  wit1i 
bags  and  bo.\e>.  and  to|)|)ed  up  with  (he  same  by  means  of  s(rai)s.  which,  in 
the  hands  of  an  expiMl  pacl-'cr.  was  (riily  a  woi'k  of  ar(.  when  one  considers 
the  balancing  and  -ccniity  id"  ail  kind-  (d'  goods  id'  \arioiis  sorts  and  sizes 
and  shapes,  (o  l)e  held  lirniiy  on  a  Irolling  or  canl<'iMng  horse,  with  many  a 
bum]>  by  (he  o\ ci'lianginij.-  ha/els.  The  boss  of  (he  (earn,  riding  a  good  |iony, 
loosebaii"  slung  on  his  back,  and  freely  using  (he  whip  on  the  jogging  (cam  in 
fronl.  made  the  taibender  keep  up  lo  ihc  leader,  who  forged  ahead,  (he  olhers 
folhtwing  him  in  -ingle  lilc.  'I"lic-e  goods  Wvvv  for  the  seli'c(oi's  en  roiHe. 
and.  as  (li<'  hut-  wcic  readied,  the  \arioils  packs  were  taken  oil',  (o  (he  reliid" 
of  the  nag.  and   mo-l    probably  to  (he   joy  id"  the  cook   of  (he  camp. 

.Vl'ier  -laying  o\cr  night  .\itli  our  friend-,  the  (ilcws.  my  brother  and 
I  next  morning  (ook  our  way  (o  our  desi  mat  ion.  entering  the  -crub  again  on 
(he  hill  lo  (he  South  of  where  the  .luniliimiia  town-hip  now  i-.  iind  in  an 
hour  were  at  the  hut  on  my  brother's  clearing.  The  only  selectors  Sondi  of 
here  a(  (his  time  were  .\b'ssrs.  ('.  Parson-,  (icitige  .Matheson.  and  IJainbow 
l>ros.  Px'voiid  was  |)rac(ically  unknown  land.  McLeorj  liros..  (o  (he  Kast, 
had  (heir  hu(  on  (heir  d!\idini:'  line  on  the  top  id'  Mount  .Misery,  and  (here 
kei)t  the  Jiimbunna  Kast  Po.-(  Odice.     My  brother  had  aboiii  20  acres  in  grass 


;uo  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

and  a  hut  huill  of  loiih.  with  a  .shin<^-le  roof:  the  water  ^^llpp]y  being  a  barrel 
fi-om  which  the  OA'erHow  ran  into  a  6  feet  hole  in  the  ground.  The  advent 
of  the  neighboui'ing  selectors  was  kept  up  continuously  from  this  time.  The 
furthest  out  clearing  or  hut  was  made  the  rendezvous  for  the  time  being  by 
the  newly  arrived  selector  till  his  hut  was  erected,  and  his  clearing  started. 
The  work  of  clearing  pack-tracks  also  commanded  attention,  sometimes 
parties  of  six  or  so  working  together  to  hasten  it  on:  a  certain  number  of 
davs*  work  being  given  by  one.  and  later  on  returned  by  his  neighbour.  In 
this  waj'  greater  power  was  available  in  rolling  logs  out  of  tlie  way,  besides 
being  more  sociable  for  the  members  in  their  work. 

The  work  on  the  selections  from  now  on  was  the  effort  to  obtain  clearing 
and  gi-ass.  at  the  same  time  adding  to  the  comfort  where  possible  by  adding 
more  buildings  and  yards  for  the  working  of  the  place.  About  -this  time 
the  small  paddocks,  "^although  growing  great  abundance  of  English  gi;ass, 
were  stocked  heavily,  the  few  cattle,  the  necessary  horses,  and  the  predacious 
wallabies  being  a  great  tax  on  them.  The  cattle  fared  well,  however,  by 
being  able  to  take  to  the  scrub  when  they  wished,  and  cotild  live  there 
altogether  on  the  wire-grass,  sword-grass  and  leaves  of  small  trees.  When 
selectors  cleared  the  scub  to  an  adjoining  clearing,  a  log  fence  was  put  up 
between,  and  it  gave  a  forward  settled  appearance  to  the  place.  Some  tried 
sheep  on  these  new  areas,  but  the  dingoes  and  footrot  proved  that  they  were 
not  suitable  stock  to  put  on  at  that  stage. 

The  living  of  the  pioneers  was  rough,  as  can  be  easily  imagined  when 
it  is  understood  that  only  the  pack-saddle  could  bring  in  our  goods,  and  it  was 
surprising  what  things  could  be  packed.  Horses,  though  flighty  at  first, 
settled  down  to  the  work  after  a  few  trips,  and  got  so  used  to  the  lioise 
and  rattle  of  their  loads  that  I  have  seen  animals  that  could  be  trusted  to 
pack  crockery  with  safety,  not  only  by  being  led.  but  driven.  The  training 
usually  began  by  putting  flour,  potatoes  or  some  unbreakable  matei-ial  on. 
and  after  a  deal  of  bumping  against  trees  to  the  distress  of  the  poor  nags, 
who  nearly  got  knocked  oti  their  feet,  they  would  learn  to  measure  the  distance 
themselves  and  avoid  a  tree  for  their  own  sakes.  It  was  very  tempting  to  the 
pack-horse  to  get  out  of  the  mud  in  the  middle  of  the  track  and  climb  along 
the  drier  edge,  but  even  his  dull  brain  soon  realised  it  was  better  to  Avalk  in 
the  mire  than  to  be  hurled  almost  off  his  feet  by  the  pack  bumping  some- 
thing. I  have  seen  a  pack-horse  going  ahead  with  a  pack  try  to  take  a  short 
cut  l)etween  some  hazels,  and  going  in  between  them  found  out  that  the  pack 
could  not  go  through,  back  out  and  take  the  proper  track  again.  It  was 
considered  that  200  lbs.,  a  bag  of  flour,  was  a  fair  load  for  a  horse,  and 
altiiough  it  may  seem  strange,  it  was  a  fact  that  the  lighter  horses,  owing  to 
their  activity  in  the  rough  tracks,  would  do  better  work  than  the  heavy  ones. 
Very  fat  horses  were  practically  useless  for  safe  packing,  the  ])oor  ones  with 
a  good  '"keer'  would  be  more  reliable,  and  have  less  risk  from  an  uneven 
load  slipping  round.  Among  the  many  curious  articles  packed  in  this  way 
were  sheets  of  iron,  building  timber,  small  tanks,  and  an  harmonium,  which 
last  was  balanced  by  a  keg  of  treacle.  I  once  went  to  Anderson's  Inlet  for  a 
pack  of  fruit  trees,  which  are  now  growing  in  "Torwood"  orchard,  and 
brought  forth  the  censure  of  some  residents  there  when  I  balanced  it  Avith 
its  equal  weight  of  sand,  about  40  lbs.  They  considered  it  cruelty  to  animals 
to  cart  sand  up  that  way.  I  could  not  divide  the  well-packed  bundle  of  trees, 
as  it  would  have,  dried  their  roots  if  I  had  opened  it. 

The    daily    fare    of    the    hut    was    meagre    and    simple.       No    butter 
meant,    of    necessity,    either    jam     or    treacle,    and    the     100  lb.     keg    of 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  .ui 

treacle  was  to  be  found  in  most  of  the  pi(jneei's"  ciunps.  Bread  uuiik- 
in.o;  by  amateurs  may  better  be  imagined  than  described.  If  the  batch 
proved  a  ''sod.""  well,  there  was  nothing  else,  it  had  to  be  eaten.  The 
soda  bread  or  scone  had  to  be  the  only  form  used  by  those  in  making  a 
start  in  camping,  but  as  this  would  not  agi-ee  with  the  system  long,  recourse 
was  had  tu  tlie  yeast  l;read  as  soon  as  it  could  ba  done.  Meat  was  o])tained 
from  someone  who  had  killed  a  beast,  and  was  taken  in  50  lb.  lots  ami  put 
in  the  brine  barrel.  According  to  the  season — hot  or  cold — woukl  depend 
how  much  fresh  meat  could  be  liung,  the  rest  was  pickled,  and  that  >ometiiues 
went  a  bit  "otf."  but  had  to  be  gone  through.  A  good  a})petite  acquired  after" 
four  or  five  hours"  axe-^^ork  easily  overcame  any  sciueamisluiess  as  to  tainted 
meat.  Tomato  sauce  also  came  to  the  rescue  and  drowned  the  smell  while  the 
appetite  was  being  appeased. 

Cooking  was  done  at  night,  or.  perhaps,  on  a  day  too  wet  lo  work  out- 
side. After  a  hard  day's  picking-up  or  scrub-cutting,  one  man  wotild  go  home 
haif-au-hour  ahead,  and  have  the  fire  lit,  and  by  the  time  the  others  were 
home  have  the  billy  boiling,  potatoes  (if  any)  peeled  and  on,  or  rice  or 
dumplings  done,  ready  for  tea,  when  every  one  was  washed.  Then,  after 
washing  up,  roll  up  sleeves,  set  bread,  make  more  yeast,  read  a  bit,  and  off  to 
the  bank,  which  was  two  flour  bags  stretched  on  poles  and  set  on  forks,  bltieys 
on  top,  and  so  to  sleep. 

Sunday  morning  was  a  very  domestic  time  as  a  rule,  mending  clothes. 
extra  cooking  and  cleaning  up  generally  took  place,  and  then  [)erliaps  for 
Sunday's  diimer  one's  Ijest  clothes  might  go  on.  just  to  feel  clean  once  more. 
In  the  afternoon  one  would  eithei'  be  Nisited  oi*  wc.uld  visit  some  other  selector 
and  discuss  local  topics,  arrange  plans  for  next  week's  road  making  or 
bridge  making  "bee."  exciiange  papers,  etc..  etc..  winding  up  with  a  strike 
at  cricket  more  often. 

liater  on  a.>  the  women-folk  came  to  the  rescue,  things  took  a  moi'c  hope- 
ful and  comfortal)le  aspect.  The  hoiu's  of  work  cotdd  be  extended  in  the 
clearing  instead  of  attending  to  household  duties.  The  milch  cow  was 
refjuisitioned.  the  fai'e  \\a>  moic  refined  and  palatable,  the  kitchen  and  (lower 
garden  began  to  demand  the  attention  they  pi'operly  de.served.  and  >ocialiiIity 
took  the  [)!ace  of  unbroken  diudgery.  The  snow-white  tabU'cloih  and  (»lher 
dainty  eml»ellishments  in  the  home  made  the  man  turn  fi'om  the  roughness 
of  batching  and  gi\"e  a  thought  to  the  comnforts  of  s'ociaiiility  and  ci\  ili.-ation. 

Just  as  Sunnner  heat  came  on  the  gicjit  rankness  of  the  new  gras>  on  the 
biH'ns  and  the  moistuie  (d"  the  small  clearings  ga\e  I'ise  to  the  scourge  of  cater- 
pillars, and  for  ye;irs  this  sort  of  thing  went  on  regularly  until  the  grass  g(>t 
established.  In  the  meantime  it  faicd  badly  with  the  stock,  and  many  a 
selector  had  lo  -ell  them  owing  to  his  gra.^^s  being  laid  wiiste,  and  fre- 
quently had  to  ic-ow  it.  I'addocks  destroyed  by  caterpillars  i>rc«enled  a 
particularly  re])uginint  appearance.  Ihe  grubs  destroyed  more  than  they 
ate.  They  nip|)ed  the  >lioots  of!'  at  the  roots,  with  (he  result  that  the 
withered  grass  lay  about    ui   lotting  heaps  as  if  it   had  been  j)oisoned. 

In  time  the  cleai-ing  e.xtendecl  and  the  (juestion  arose  how  to  turn  the 
grass  into  n)onev.  Sheep  weiv  out  of  the  (piestion.  on  account  of  dingoes 
and  footrot.  Fattening  had  its  diawliacks;  we  sent  off  fat  cattle  to  Toowong, 
the  nearest  market  then,  and  only  got  Cl  \(),<.  for  them.  We  had  tiiu.-^  to  turn 
our  attention  to  dairying.  On  all  the  -elections  ikmv  the  cow-shed  and  yard 
was   to   lie   <^■^'\\.   slartiim    with   a    lew   cow<.      The   <li!licultv     of     var<liiiu     and 


;;t.'  PECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

bivakiuii  ill  heilVrs  used  to  the  scrub  wa.s  great:   sometime?  they  would  plant 
thfir  calves  for  a  week  in  the  bush. 

At  first  the  shd)  wall  and  >liiiigle  roof  made  the  best  dairy,  where  the 
milk  was  set  in  dishes.  The  churn  and  Imtter-worker.  and  at  last  the  cask, 
saw  the  butter  fit  for  market.  Kegs  of  oti  lbs.  capacity  took  some  time  to 
fill,  and  it  is  suri)rising  the  good  quality  of  the  butter  ou  the  whole,  con- 
sidering that  it  was  ]nit  in  layer  after  layer  as  it  was  made.  These  kegs  were 
packed  one  on  each  side  of  a  horse,  either  to  Anderson's  Inlet  and  then  per 
boat,  or  to  Poowong  and  then  carted  thence  to  Drouin.  and  so  to  the  city.  The 
speculation  on  the  price  was  great.  Some  of  it  would  sell  down  to  4d.  per 
lb.,  to  our  dismay.  Any  in  the  "Winter  time  would  perhaps  go  to  Is.  6d.  or 
Is.  9d..  v.hich  would  pa}^  well,  but.  a>s  a  rule,  the  quantity  of  this  was  small. 
This  butter  was  made  very  salt,  to  keep  it.  and  it  would  be  re- worked  in  the 
city,  i'.nd  sold  retail  as  fresh  butter.  This  kind  of  dairying  went  on  till  the 
railway  came  to  Korumburra.  when  Ave  were  able  to  take  our  cream  tiiere. 
and  it  was  sent  per  rail  to  firms  in  the  city  and  made  up  into  Ijutter.  AMien 
the  tracks,  which  improved  later  on.  got  very  boggy  we  had  to  pack  the 
cream,  two  cans,  one  on  each  side  of  the  horse,  to  Korumburra.  The  cream 
separator  was  introduced  when  dairying  had  come  to  this  stage.  The  first  mach- 
ine was  brought  into  the  district  by  Mr.  C.  Parsons,  a  horizontal  Le  Laval, 
and  was  the  object  of  much  interest  and  speculation  by  neighbouring  dairy- 
men. Improvements  quickly  developed,  and  the  upright  machines  of  various 
makes  soon  cast  these  old  types  to  the  scrap  heap.  Later  on  the  residents 
of  Moyarra  decided  to  start  a  bu.tter  factory  on  their  own  account,  and  a  small 
plant  was  erected  on  this!  property.  capal)le  of  turning  out  four  tons  per  week. 
It  was  successful,  although  handicapped  for  want  of  modern  refrigerating 
appliances.  Mr.  R.  T.  Archer,  now  senior  dairy  expert  to  the  Department  of 
Agriculture,  managed  it,  and  by  his  skill  and  energy  made  first -class  butter, 
notwithstanding  all  disabilities.  In  hot  weather  he  adopted  the  plan  of 
working  all  night  instead  of  in  the  heat  of  the  day-time,  and  by  many  similar 
ex])edients.  coupled  Avith  great  resourcefulness  and  painstaking  care,  gained 
a  reputation  for  the  Moyarra  brand  of  butter.  Owing  to  the  farmers  to  the 
North  of  the  factory  giving  up  dairying  as  the  coal  towns'hips  came  into 
being,  this  factory  was  not  central,  and  was  moved  to  Kongwak.  Avhere  it  now 
flouri.«h8s 

The  dairying  industry  was  the  means,  in  those  days,  of  bad  roads  and 
poor  communications,  of  saving  many  of  the  selectors  from  abandoning 
their  properties.  With  the  opening  up  of  the  country  came  the  necessitv  for 
better  roads.  The  first  tracks  were  cut  simply  as  bridle  tracks,  but  later"  they 
had  to  be  widened  for  dray  work,  and  our  goods,  for  a  time.  V)efore  the  railway 
came,  were  luought  from  Anderson's  Inlet.  13  miles  awav.  A  road  was  cut 
for  drays  right  over  the  ridge  of  McLeod's  Hill,  now  'Mount  Misery,  the 
•sides  being  too  steep  to  negotiate.  Then  a  Avinding  track  Avas  made  "across 
the  plains  to  avoid  the  swamps,  to  the  Inlet.  Avhere  the  ketches  broudit  the 
goods.  This  meant  a  tAvo  days'  trip,  one  dav  to  take  the  drav  down  and 
return  to  the  foot  of  the  hills  with  the  load."  and  the  next,  and  worst,  up 
arid  over  th"  hills  and  home.  All  the  roads  had  to  be  made  along-  the 
ridges  then,  but  later  on.  and  CA-en  up  to  the  present,  the  Avork  of  g"ettinir 
a  gi-ade  by  running  along  the  sides  of  the  hills  is  ffoin^  on.  At  first  no  monev 
was  aA-ailable  from  the  shires,  the  farmers  had  to  clear  their  own  roads:  later 
the  shires  came  to  the  rescue.  The  condition  of  the  roads  Avas  almost  hope- 
less. The  sun  or  Avind  never  got  in  to  drv  up  the  mud.  and  the  earth  was 
simply  vegetaljle  mould,  having  no  sri'it  or  firmness.     However,  as  time  has 


RECOl.LECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  343 

gone  by.  the  wind  and  rain  have  washed   away  the  mould,  and  to-day   the 
firmness  of  the  roads  surprises  tlie  pioneer  who  saw  them  25  years  ago. 

The  discovery  of  coal  in  Mr.  Horsley's.  where  to-day  the  Jumbunna  mine 
is.  marked  an  epoch  which  pushed  this  locality  on.  The  seam  had  been  found 
b}'  some  men  while  burning  a  stack  of  logs  in  a  gully  where  it  was  exposed, 
and  they  smelt  the  coal  fumes.  Later  on  the  seam  was  opened  f)ut.  and  an 
open  air  banquet  was  held  to  commemorate  the  event.  The  railway 
line  was  constructed  as  far  as  Jumbunna  to^AHship,  and  an  aerial  tram- 
way was  constructed,  which  was  an  endless  wire  rope,  travelling  on  poles 
and  trestles,  to  which  iron  buckets,  holding  about  5  ewt.  of  coal,  were  attached, 
but  this  plan  failed.  Later  on  the  railway  line  passed  on  to  Outtrim,  where 
another  seam  had  been  discovered,  and  was  worked  under  the  name  of  the 
Outtrim,  Howitt  and  British  Consolidated  Coal  Mine,  and  its  townsldp  ac- 
cordingly' followed.  This  company,  whose  lease  extended  undei  this  pro- 
perty, purchased  35  acres  of  land  for  a  horse  paddock,  where,  at  a  week-end, 
as  many  as  80  ponies  and  horses  were  run  to  give  them  a  1)1oav  of  fresh  air.  out 
of  the  mine,  after  the  week's  work.  Since  then  the  townships  of  Outtrim  and 
Jumbunna  have  waxed  and  waned.  In  the  former  town  the  croAvds  at  one 
time,  on  a  Saturday  night,  were  such  that  pedestrians  had  to  walk  in  the 
roadway.  Before  the  railway  was  completed  to  Outtrim  from  Jumlmnna.  the 
Outtrim  Coal  Company,  to  put  their  coal  before  the  public,  sent  it  by  waggons 
of  all  sorts  to  Jumbunna  terminus,  the  road  being  a  continuous  stream  of  teams 
all  day.  Big  sums  were  earned  by  the  carriers,  also  tlie  miners:  the  graziers, 
too,  reaped  a  harvest  grazing  bullocks  and  horses. 

Building  and  planning  our  homestead  was  one  of  the  many  matters  that 
lay  uppermost  in  our  minds  as  the  clearirig  Mcnt  on.  My  brother  had  built  a 
comfortable  house  on  his  block,  and  for  a  pei-iod  my  fathci-.  mothei-.  sifters, 
and  I  lived  there.  Meanwdiile.  another  abode  was  planned,  and  eventnidly 
a  weatherboard  house  was  erected  on  my  fatlier's  block,  called  "Toi-wood.''* 
The  orchard  was  first  fenced  and  planted,  and  then  came  the  house.  The 
railway  was  then  being  made  from  Loch  onwards.  The  sawmill  at  Whiteiaw, 
Tyson's,  supplied  the  hardwood,  and  the  rest  came  from  tlie  city.  In  the 
building  wc  ein])loyed  a  Noi-wegian  shiji's  car])enter.  who.  althongh  not  a 
througldy  ex])erienced  house  builder,  suited  the  occasion.  At  that  time  there 
were  numbei-s  of  these  men.  and  Kussian  Finns  and  (Germans,  i-nnaway  sailors 
from  ships  in  port,  and  giants' they  were,  not  afraid  of  woi-k  or  rongbing  it. 

Li  1890  I  applied  for  and  selected  an  area  of  swanij)  land  on  the  I'owK'tt 
Rivei-,  covered  with  tea-tree,  and  in  Winter  with  water.  I'he  task  of  cleai-- 
ing  this  was  totally  different  to  that  on  the  'lills,  and  it  took  more  time  to 
get  a  sole  of  grass  there.  At  certain  times  in  a  late  Summer  tiiis  newly 
cleared  land  got  opened  by  cracks,  and  myriads  of  crickets  bred  in  I  lie  cracks 
and  (levoiii-e(l  everything.  T'ltiinately  it  got  out  of  this  stage,  and  where  it 
is'  di'ained  is  sloAvly  developing  into  good  grazing  land. 

Pei'haps  the  most  memoral)U'  excnl  in  the  years  of  residence  here  wa-  the 
1898  bush  fires.  New  V^ears  Day  was  the  fii'st  of  the  outbreai<s  here.  It 
occurred  a  mile  away,  from  some  unknown  cause.  As  the  dry  Aveather  con- 
tinued, grass,  etc..  became  drier  and  liic-  burned  out  many  places  before  our 
turn  came.  All  the  time  heat  and  (hy  winds  had  made  tinder  of  everything, 
and  water  was'  scarce.  In  the  distance  fires  burned,  and  every  change  of  wind 
sent  them  back  and  forAvard.  keei)ing  us  in  suspense.  Things  got  so  serious 
that  we  mo\ed  our  cream  sejiarator  and  implenients  out  into  the    yard,    and 


:U4  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

even  removed  our  clothes  and  valuables  out  of  the  house,  placing  them  in  a 
heap  in  a  close  cropped  paddock,  coACjed  by  a  tarpaulin,  which  we  kept  wet. 
The  da}'  of  fire  came.  We  fought  it  and  saved  house  and  all  around  it,  but 
gi'ass  and  fencet<  went.  Then,  desolation  and  a  general  u.iix-up  of  cattle; 
every  man's  cattle  were  in  his  neighbour's  paddocks,  just  for  a  change,  and 
had  "to  remain  so  till  temporary  fences  were  erected.  The  I'ain  did  not  come 
till  the  beginning  of  April,  too  late,  and  starvatign  faced  the  herds.  AVe 
sent  most  of  ours  to  the  plains,  but  a  great  many  were  lost,  and  they  were 
too  weak  to  do  any  good  in  the  Spring.  The  only  benefit  the  fires  did  was 
to  sweep  many  paddocks  clean  of  timber  that  would  otherwise  have  taken 
years  to  clear. 

Among  the  many  experiences  one  cannot  help  rememljering.  is  the  feeling 
of  helplessness  that  surrounded  us  in  taking  ourselves  s'o  far  back  with 
such  poor  means  of  connnunication  with  the  outside  world.  The  nearest 
railway  station  was  Drouin,  35  miles  otf,  15  of  which  had  to  be  done  on 
horseback  or  on  foot,  the  remaining  '20  by  rough  coach  road.  How  Ave  longed 
for  the  coming  of  the  railway  line  which  crept  slowly  forward  in  its  construc- 
tion, and  I  can  well  remember  the  joy  we  felt  on  first  hearing  the  wliistle  of 
the  advanced  contractor's  engine  or  the  blasting  of  the  rocks  in  the  cuttings; 
we  felt  that  the  link  Avith  the  city  was  being  forged.  Then,  before  the  regular 
traffic  was  commenced,  we  used  to  mount  the  trucks  on  the  ballast  trains  and 
get  down  the  line  to  meet  the  regular  service  at  different  points  as  it  was  taken 
liver  by  the  Government. 

\\'hen  properly  opened,  the  trip  to  town  took  four  or  five  hours, 
instead  of  a  full  day's  hard  travel,  as  before.  It  also  expedited  our 
mail  service,  so  that  we  got  it  at  noon  daily,  whereas  the  first  mail  was 
once  a  week,  and  had  to  be  sent  for,  on  Sunday.  The  second  stage  was  a 
tri-weekly  serA'ice,  carried  by  Horsley  Bros,  from  Poowong  after  the  arrival 
of  the  coach  from  Drouin.  Later  still  it  was  brought  by  ]Mr.  Matheson,  who 
was  the  first  to  run  a  vehicle.  This  Avas  a  rough  trip,  for  the  coach  fi'om 
Drouin  Avould  often  break  doAvn  or  get  stuck,  and  the  mails  would  often 
arrive  at  PooAvong  at  dark  or  after;  our  mailman  having  then  to  traverse  the 
lonely.  15  mile  track  and  its  dangers  in  darkness  all  the  Avay,  arriving  at  our 
place  (the  Moyarra  Post  Office  for  a  number  of  years)  at  11  or  12  o'clock 
at  night :  and  had,  after  this,  a  furtlier  journey  of  three  miles  to  his  home. 
A  change  in  the  name  of  the  local  post-office  became  necess'arA^  about  the 
year  1890.  It  originally  bore  the  name  of  Jumbunna  East,  being  the  name  of 
the  Parish.  As  there  Avas  also  a  Parish  and  post-office  of  Jumbunna,  much 
inconvenience  occurred  through  our  mails  going  there  by  mistake.  A  meet- 
ing of  residents  Avas  held  at  my  brother's  house  and  the  name  of  an  aboriginal 
chief,  "Moyarra,"  taken  from  a  poem,  Avas  chosen. 

On  the  discoA-ery  of  coal  on  Horsley's  land  and  the  formiition  of  a 
company  to  work  it,  the  directors  called  the  mine  Jumbunna.  This  led  to 
ambiguity  again,  and  the  original  Jumbunna  residents  changed  the  name  of 
their  post-office  to  Glenalvie.  The  toAvn  in  connection  Avith  the  coal  mine 
naturally  adopted  the  name  o'f  the  mine,  Avhich  it  now  bears. 

In  church  matters,  though  our  population  was  of  small  importance,  the 
district  was  always  well  serA-ed,  the  clergymen  and  readers  pushing  their 
Avay  braAely  to  carry  the  good  tidings  even  into  the  forest. 

The  Education  Department  established  a  school  on  Jnnuaiv  14th.  1890, 
in  a  log  house  of  three  rooms  on  mv  lirother's  place,  starting  with  a   loll 


P^ECOLLECTIOXS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  345 

of  eioht  pupils.  ^Ir.  Bailey,  a  new  arrival  of  only  a  week  from  Ireland,  being 
the  first  teacher.  This  building  comprised  residence,  schoob-oom  (on  week 
days),  chiu'ch   (on  Sunday),  and  meeting  house  when  required. 

And  so  the  district  progressed.  While  the  settlers  began  to  reap  some 
profit  from  their  hardly-won  land  they  were  able  to  spend  some,  if  not  all, 
in  improvements.  Paddocks  were  securely  fenced,  light  timber  and  logs 
burned  off.  permanent  water  supplies  made.  land  prepared  for  the  plough, 
comfortable  homesteads  and  sheds  built,  and  shelter  belts  and  orchards 
planted.  Koads  were  being  cleared  of  timber  and  stumps  and  foi-mations 
and  drains  made  to  keep  the  water  off'  and  give  a  firm  bottom  to  carry  the 
increasing  traffic.  The  first  bit  of  formation  in  these  parts  was  a  side  cutting 
on  the  main  South  road,  just  abreast  of  where  the  railway  station  is  in 
Jumbunna. 

The  continued  ri.se  in  land  values  forms  an  interesting  study.  All  land 
was  £1  per  acre  from  the  Government.  "With  the  forest  on  it  and  no  roads 
for  access,  its  value  was  a  minus  quantity.  Nevertheless,  it  might  be  safely 
stated  that  £2  jOs.  to  £4  10s.  per  acre  would  be  an  average  estimate  for  partly 
cleared  blocks  about  the  year  1S90.  A  large  area  was  cut  up  into  small  lots 
of  about  100  acres  in  area  near  Bena.  and  sold  at  these  pi-ices.  In  five  or  six 
years'  time  cleared  land  ranged  about  £6  to  £0.  From  then  on  double  figures 
were  the  rule.  and.  according  to  location  and  improvements,  reached  the  £20 
values.  At  present,  that  is  a  common  price  for  hill  country,  and  on  the  flat 
values  reach  £30  per  acre. 

AVith  the  passing  of  the  forest,  the  climate  has  altered  its  charactei-. 
The  shelter  of  the  scrub  caused  a  humidity  in  the  atmosphere  that  is  entirely 
absent  now,  while  the  hard,  dry  winds  that  sweep  the  hills  now  were  unknown. 
Before  the  clearings  lost  the  protecting  belts  of  scrub  the  grass  assumed  a 
luxuriance  and  succulence  all  through  the  Summer,  and  a  bright  green  colour, 
as  if  a  continual  spring  existed.  Avhile  now  it  regularly  dries  oft'  and  the 
hills  present  a  V)i'own  dried-up  appeaiance  every  Summer.  Some  pessimists 
predicted  that  this  country  would  be  woi-thless  when  the  timber  was  removed, 
also  that  the  shallowness  of  the  soil  Avould  prove  no  good  for  grazing 
purpos'es:  but  that  such  is  not  the  ca.se  is  proved  by  the  records  of  the  immense 
amount  of  produce  sent  from  the  railway  stations.  During  the  nine  mouths 
of  the  1914-15  drought  this  part  of  the  State  has  proved  its  worth  in  the 
way  it  carried,  besides  its  own  stock,  the  thou,sands  of  cattle,  horse.«  and  sheep 
sent  from  the  North.  While  doing  this,  and  liolding  its  own.  it  came  to  the 
rescue  of  the  city  milk  supply,  while  the  Western  district  failed,  and  lost  60 
per  cent,  of  its  dairv  cattle  from  starvation.  Potatoes,  onions,  supplies  of 
butter  and  trucks  of  fat  pigs  were-  sent  away  m  great  quantities,  while  in 
the  abnormal  .scarcity  of  beef  and  nmtton  Gippsland  supplied  a  l.iruc  f)ropor- 
tion  of  the  best  quality  of  fats  in  the  Newmarket  yards. 

This  rich.  wealth-j)roducing  piovince  of  A'ictoi-ia  is  ihe  gift  of  the 
pioneers  to  theii-  country;  opeiK'd  up.  cleared,  and  developed  to  its  present 
state  b\-  thcif  own  effoi-t>.  without  the  assistance  or  moiictaiv  aid  of  the 
Government. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  J.  HALFORD 


Like  most  of  the  early  settlers  in  South  (xipps'- 
Innd.  my  brother  and  self  secured  our  blocks  be- 
yond the  last  settler.  The  dates  of  the  settlement  of 
pioneers  can.  be  traced  in  this  way.  In  our 
ca.se  no  selectin.2,  had  been  allowed  for  some  time 
on  account  of  coal  rescn^ationi?,  and  the  farthest 
selection  South  was  the  Mes^srs.  Rainbow  and 
Williams,  but  in  1885  land  was  a^ain  thrown 
open  for  selection.  It  was  through  Mr.  A.  W.  Elms 
that  we  got  to  know  of  Kongwak.  He  had  already 
settled  in  Jumbunna  East,  and  his  hospitality  (as 
of  all  the  early  pioneers)  was  proverbial  and  ex- 
ceedmgly  helpful.  It  is  one  thing  the  pioneers  of 
this  part  of  the  State  may  well  be  prais'ed  for. 
There  were  no  hotels  or  accommodation  places  for 
miles  around,  but  these  early  settlers  gave,  and 
gave  of  their  best,  and  without  their  help  many  an 
incoming  settler  Avould  have  been  greatly  handi- 
capped. With  my  l)]'other.  Mr.  E.  C  X.  Halford. 
on  the  8th  of  January,  I880.  Ave  fimt  saw  the  .Jiunljunna  East  country, 
and  stayed,  at  Mr.  A.  W.  Elms'  for  the  night.  We  got  a  lot  of 
information,  and  then  went  on  to  Mr.  Nation's,  of  Leongatha,  passing 
through  the  property  of  Mr.  P.  Shingler.  where  we  had  dinner,  and  were 
shown  the  coal  in  Coal  Creek,  near  Korumbui-ra,  never  dreaming  at  the 
time  of  the  development  of  this  industry  in  the  near  future.  We  saw  land 
at  Leongatha  that  pleased  us.  and  thought  we  had  settled  on  our  choice. 
Later,  however,  we  applied  for  the  Kongwak  blocks,  and  on  September  1st. 
1885,  went  to  fully  inspect  them,  ere  the  Land  Board  met. 

The  trip  was,  indeed,  for  to\ATi  lads,  one  of  interest  and  ven- 
ture. We  went  to  Fi-ankston  by  rail,  arriving  at  8.45  a.m. :  coached 
to  Hastings,  leaving  at  9  and  arriving  at  10.15,  the  fare  being  4s. 
The  little  steamer  took  us  to  Cowes,  which  was  reached  at  12.30, 
tickets  3s.  6d.  From  there  to  Griffith's  Point  (now  San  Remo),  also 
3s.  6d.  With  a  pack  each  we  walked  to  Kilcunda  and  stayed  at 
Carew's  Hotel,  which  has  since  been  burned  down,  but  it  stood  right  againsi 
the  sea  on  a  high  cliff,  and  the  sound  of  the  roar  of  the  sea  kept  us  from 
sleeping,  as  it  was  a  wild  night.  We  M^alked  to  Muldoon's  and  got  there  at 
3  p.m..  wading  through  miles  of  water,  one  time  havitiaf  to  gtrip  completelv 
and  held  our  clothes  high  up.  My  diary  has?.  "100  vards  water  as  hiah  as 
up  to  the  armpits.  300  yards  to  the  loin,  300  knees.  306  ankles  off  and  on: 
slushy  and  swampy  flats."  The  kindness  of  the  Muldoon  familv  is  alwavs 
remembered,  and  for  miles  around  they  formed  a  centre  from  which  hosju- 
tahty  flowed.  We  left  there  at  8  a.m.  and  walked  round  the  plains  twelve 
miles,  and  then  up  hill  through  the  rich  land,  on  a  track  of  slush  and  mini, 
and  got  to  Mr.  A.  AV.  Elms'  homestead  at  4.4.5  p.m.     From  there  we  inspected 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  347 

the  blocks.  ]\lr.  A.  AV.  Elms  <2:ui(ling-  us.  Diary  sa3^s,  "AA'eiit  loiiud  our 
boundaries,  blocks  splendid,  Avere  7^  hours  out,  rough,  scrambling,  very  tired 
and  footsore."  The  Land  Board  met  on  October  16th.  and  we  were  granted 
our  blocks. 

On  Xovember  4th.  1^85.  we  left  our  home  to  make  a  ne\A  home  in  the 
then  wilds  of  South  (xijjpsland.  AVe  toolv  tools,  blankets'  and  tents  with  us. 
Mr.  E.  C.  X.  Halford  and  I  went  via  Drouin.  The  coach  journe}'  to  Poowong 
was  rough,  and  the  fare  charged  was  7s.  Gd.  The  half-way  house  then  was 
''Clifton's,"  where  we  had  dinner,  reaching  Poowong  at  5  p.m.,  taking  7  hours 
to  do  the  trip,  with  2^  hours'  wait  at  Clifton's  counted  in.  We  stayed  at 
Mrs.  Horsley's — a  splendid  manageress  and  exceedingly  attentive  to  travellers' 
Avants.  We  had  ordered  our  stores  previously  from  Mr.  Dixon's  store,  and 
Avere  glad  to  hear  they  had  been  forwarded.  We  secured  a  pack-horse  from 
Mr.  Horsley,  and  took  on  our  ])eiongings  right  to  Jumbunna  East,  now 
Moyarra,  and  stayed  at  Mr.  Elms'.  The  track  had  only  just  been  widened 
and  ojDened  out  to  Mr.  D.  McLeod's.  and  on  this  main  road  for  about  ten 
years'  the  great  trees  still  stood  and  the  roads  were  left  unformed.  We  packed 
OA^er  our  stores  after  cutting  a  pack  track.  This  packing  was  a  nightmare 
to  me,  and  the  pack  of  odds  and  ends  somehoAv  shifted,  and  in  one  of  the 
trips  I  had  a  fearful  struggle  Avith  it  and  the  horse,  Avhicli  evidently  knew 
I  was  a  new  chum. 

We  pitched  our  tent  in  the  middle  of  virgin  scrub,  and  the  night  sounds  of 
the  wind  high  in  the  trees  anc]  loAver  in  the  sword-grass',  the  "thump,  thumj)" 
of  numerous  wallaby  and  paddy-melon,  and  the  "burr"  of  the  ojiossum  made 
sleeping  difficult  at  first,  and  Aveird.  All  sounds  seemed  to  gather  in  intensity 
in  the  bush.  We  soon  got  at  the  first  essential  in  clearing,  and  by  practice 
learnt  the  mystery  of  scrub-cutting.  Water  Avas  our  chief  trouble,  as  we 
had  pitched  our  tent  some  distance  from  the  Foster  Rner,  Avhich  flowed 
through  tAvo  of  our  blocks.  My  brother's  hand,  after  a  time,  got  jarred  by 
the  axe  work,  and  Christmas  saAv  us  back  at  our  parents'  home.  On  Jamiary 
20th,  1886.  Ave  returned  to  the  block  to  be  ready  for  the  burning  of  about 
17  acres  of  scrul).  After  the  burn,  which  Avas  a  poor  one,  Ave  built  our  hut. 
The  shingles  for  the  roof  had  been  split  while  Availing  for  the  buin.  aiul 
Avith  the  aid  of  Mr.  A.  W.  Elms,  we  soon  had  a  more  comfoi"tal)le  camp. 
The  ])icking  up  and  sowing  Avith  grass  seed  followed  in  due  couise.  A\'e 
got  through  a  great  deal  of  Avork.  being  young  and  full  of  hope,  and  the 
incubus  of  eight  hours  was  non-existent.  The  young  gi-ass  gicw  i-apidly. 
and  attracted  the  attention  and  a])petite  of  hundreds  of  wallaby  and  pndijy 
melons,  so  that  during  the  AViutei-  we  got  \rvy  little  good  from  the  place. 
Years  afterAvards  a  disease  broke  out  among  these  niarsu|)ial>.  and  when 
1  left  the  district  in  U>04  they  were  rarely  seen,  and  never  on  the  clearings. 

On  Xovember  2nd.  ISSC).  Mi-.  ('.  D.  Tidloch  came  to  see  his  block',  and 
soon  after  became  our  neigliboMf.  In  the  same  month  onr  niollier  paid  ns  a 
visit.  In  Avriting  of  her.  my  icniarks  Avill  a]>ply  al^o  lo  all  (lie  women 
folk,  who  faced  the  ^olilndr.  |)ii\  ;it  ion>.  and  work  on  llic  ^elections  of  the 
early  times.  T  met  my  niotliei'  at  P(»owong:  already  she  had  the  previous 
day's  joui'iiey  of  rail  to  Dronin  and  then  the  wearisome  coacli.  and  now  she 
had  to  face  a  long,  tedious  i-ide  of  Is  inihs  lo  oiif  bush  home,  thi-ongh  a  nuid 
road,  exevy  step  of  the  hoi'se  taken  in  a  fool  of  nnid,  and  at  a  walking  jiaee. 
When  1  look'  back'  I  realise,  in  <'\('n  that  one  instance,  soniclliing  of  what 
Avomen  cheeididly  bore    for  lo\e. 

On  rJainiaiy  17tli.  L^sT.  my  biothcr.  Mr.  K.  M.  Halford.  arrived,  and  we 
Avorked  the  three  .^elections  in   pa  rt  iier>hii)   for  some  \'ears.      We  had   all  gone 


348  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES 

aN\ay  for  Christmas  holidays,  and  on  returning  found  two  single  blankets 
and  a  clothesbrush  stojen.  '  The  thief  must  have  given  a  shock  to  three- 
quarters  of  a  bag  of  Hour,  for  during  our  absence  of  three  weeks  it  had  gone 
musty.  My  diary  says.  ''Got  up  at  4.45  a.m.  and  caught  Mr.  Rainbow,  who 
was  going  to  Wliittet's  store  at  Bena,  and  got  him  to  pack  down  some  flour 
for  us."  These  little  things  are  mentioned  to  show  a  pioneer's  troubles  and 
activities. 

With  Messrs.  Williams  and  Rainbow,  we  cut  a  dray  track,  and  later  on 
our  survey  was  followed  by  the  Government  surveyors  for  most  of  the  way. 
Road  finding  and  making  is  in  a  pioneer's'  category,  and  on  May  6th,  Mr. 
Cecil  Parsons  came  and  stayed  the  night  preparatory  to  exploring  the 
country  to  try  and  find  a  way  through  our  j^roperty  South  to  Anderson's 
Inlet  (now  Inverloch).  Mr.  E.  Halford  and  Mr.  Lardner  had  tried  a  way 
Easterly,  and  found  a  tea-tree  morass,  and,  therefore,  impracticable.  On  the 
next  day.  May  7th,  they  kept  near  the  Foster  River,  and  found  a  good  road. 
Mr.  E.  Halford  wrote  to  Mr.  Callanan,  the  District  Surveyor,  who  later  on 
sent  a  strong  staff  of  surveyors  down  and  surveyed  a  road.  When  this  was 
being  done  the  neighbours  all  joined  together,  and  cut  a  dray-track,  and  they 
and  the  surveyors  in  two  days  (about  Xovember  11th.  1S8T)  built  a  bridge 
over  the  Powlett  River,  south  of  Mr.  C.  D.  Tulloch's.  At  this  bridge-making, 
while  splitting  planks,  a  wedge  that  I  had  double-banked  flew  up  and  all  but 
stumied  me,  hitting  me  on  the  nose,  and  lea^■ing  a  black  eye  for  a  time.  The 
next  day  (November  15th,  1887)  I  rode  with  Mr.  Lardner,  and  with  him 
blazed  a  road  by  compass  direct  to  Anderson's  Inlet,  and  later  on  this  route 
was  finally  selected.  As  my  injury  had  become  painful  I  went  to  Melbourne 
to  my  brother,  Avho  was  then  a  surgeon  at  the  Melbourne  Hospital.  He 
healed  me,  and  then,  as  I  knew  most  of  the  young  medicos,  brought  me  (black 
eye  and  all)  into  their  private  room,  and  my  explanation  of  the  case  they 
pretended  not  to  receive.  Imt  accounted  for  it  in  another  manner,  and  said 
they  hoped  the  other  fellow  got  it  worse  than  I  did. 

Xine  months  later  (August  2nd.  1888).  my  brothers  and  I  built  the  first 
bridge  over  the  Foster,  at  about  the  spot  where  the  present  Kongwak  bridge 
now  stands.  Owing  to  flood.-.,  several  bridges  had  to  be  constructed  before  the 
present  bridge  was  built  above  the  flood  waters. 

Mr.  E.  M.  Halford  and  I  cut  on  January  :30th,  1888.  a  dray  track  from 
the  Powlett  at  Kongwak  to  the  Buffalo  swamp,  near  Wonthaggi.  and  later 
on  the  track  was  finished  lo  Anderson's  Inlet. 

On  January  .Slst.  1888.  my  father  paid  his  first  visit  to  us.  driving  from 
Grantville.  via  Kilcunda.  along  the  Buffalo  track.  In  a  little  over  two  years 
we  had  got  a  good  start,  and  roads  opened  out  in  two  directions,  nortli  and 
south.  It  wa.s  some  years  afterwards  that  roads  to  Outtrim  and  Glenalvie 
were  dealt  with.  Good  health,  long  hours,  hard  labour,  with  occasional 
holidays  and  cricket  days  to  brighten  our  duties,  were  our  portion.  Some- 
times our  hands  got  jarred,  all  suffered  at  various  times  from  this;  of  acci- 
dents there  were  few,  mostly  axe  wounds.  But  one  case  I  remember  of  a 
man  cutting  scrub  for  a  contractor  named  Murray  on  McHarg's  selection. 
At  5.30  p.m.  Mr.  Murray  came  for  me.  When  I  arrived  at  the  tent  the 
bottom  of  the  bunk  was  soaked  in  blood:  the  man  had  bled  for  3^  hours,  and 
they  did  not  know  what  to  do.  I  treated  the  wound,  and  sat  up  all  niaht 
and  watched  every  hour  to  see  if  bleeding  had  started  again.  It  was  a  most 
serious  case,  and  for  months  the  man  was  treated  in  the  Melbourne  Hospital. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPEFiENCES.  349 

The  task  of  getting  him  av.u}'  was  very  arduous.  A  rough  bu>h  track,  hardly 
cleared  at  all.  through  virgin  scrub,  made  it,  with  the  big  size  of  the  patient, 
great  toil.  We  carried  him  on  the  bunk  made  of  poles  and  bags,  in  relays 
of  three-quarter  of  a  mile  to  the  clearing.  Messrs.  Parsons.  J.  (xladstone. 
Will  White,  G.  Matheson.  Murray,  his  three  mates,  and  myself,  assisted,  and 
we  needed  all  this  help.  Mr.  John  Oannon  was  waiting  for  us  with  his 
buggy,  and  a  pair  of  horses,  and,  like  a  good  Samaritan,  took  him  to  Poo- 
wong.  The  weather  was  bad,  and  the,  flies  had  got  into  the  wound,  and  it 
was  a  wonder  the  man  survived :  he  had  cut  the  main  artery  of  the  foot,  and 
without  attention  would  have  bled  to  death.  When  I  got  back  home  I  was 
knocked  up  bv  the  strain,  ^mentally  and  phvsicallv.  This  happened  on 
November  12th.  1886. 

In  the  years  to  1890  new  settlers  felt  a  financial  strain;  there  were  no 
near  markets:  Poowong  was  18  miles  away.  The  nearest  railway  station  was 
Drouin.  It  was  customary  for  droves  of  cows  and  vealers  to  be  taken  there- 
the  vealers  trucked  to  Melbourne,  and  the  cows  driven  back.  The  butter 
industry  gi-adually  developed,  but  in  the  80's  there  was  no  frozen  trade,  and 
only  a  poor  return  was  possible.  Where  privation,  struggle,  and  self-denial 
was  found  in  one  generation,  the  present  generation  now  reaps  where  they 
have  not  sowed.  Land  values  may  be  now  high  and  dear,  but  the  South 
Gippsland  farms  were  made  by  much  self-sacrificing  energy,  and  the  food 
work  for  all  time  done  by  the  pioneers  will,  I  trust,  lead  this  and  the  coming 
generations  to  do  and  give  their  best  for  those  who  follow  them. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MRS.  W.  J.  WILLIAMS. 

About  the  second  of  June.  1886,  I  bade  farewell 
to  my  parents  and  friends  in  the  Ballarat  district, 
and  started  on  the  first  stage  of  my  journey  to 
South  Gippsland.  Avhere  my  husband  had  preceded 
me.  My  first  baby  was  then  seven  weeks'  old.  I 
travelled  to  Melbourne  with  Miss  Eainbow.  who  was 
o-oing  to  Gippsland  also.  We  stayed  in  Melbourne 
that  night,  and  went  as  far  as  Drouin  the  next  day, 
staying  the  night  there.  The  following  morning  we 
.-tarted  for  Poowong  in  the  coach,  which  carried  the 
uiails.  etc.,  for  the  South.  One  could  not  easily 
forget  that  trip:  it  was  bump,  bump,  wdth  an  occa- 
sional lurch  to  right  or  left  as  the  Avheels  dropped 
into  a  rut  or  went  over  a  root  or  piece  of  timber  that 
Avas  throwu  down  to  stop  the  wheels  going  too  deep. 
The  roof  of  the  coach  was  very  low.  and  unless  one 
could  hold  (m  with  both  hands,  one's  head  suffered 
considerably.  I  was  at  a  disadvantage  through 
liaving  to  hold  my  baby  with  one  arm.  As  we  pro- 
gressed my  fellow  passengers  consoled  me  with  "the  fact  that  it  was  worse 
further  on,  and  we  might  have  to  get  out  and  walk.  That  prospect  was  any- 
thing but  cheering,  as  the  horses  Avere  then  kneedeep  in  mud.  However,  we 
did  not  need  to  get  out  and  walk,  but  only  to  endure  a  few  more  hard  raps 
that  threatened  to  break  our  skulls.  At  last  we  reached  Mr.  Kennedy's  resi- 
dence, where  we  were  Avelcomed  by  oue  of  the  kindest  families  it  has  ever  been 
my  lot  to  meet.  My  husband  had  arranged  to  meet  us  there,  and  was  greatly  con- 
cerned at  the  effect  the  journey  had  on  me,  and  was  worried  lest  I  would  not 
be  al)le  to  proceed  the  next  day.  HoAvever.  after  tea,  a  good  night's  rest,  and 
a  hearty  breakfast  next  morning,  Ave  started  off  for  Jumbunna  East,  about 
19  miles  distant.  It  was  a  great  undertaking,  as  Ave  had  to  ride  on  horse- 
back all  the  way,  and  it  Avas  my  first  experience  of  the  kind.  We  could  not 
go  out  of  a  walk,  so  I  Avas  able  to  sit  on.  My  husband  carried  the  babv  on 
his  left  arm,  with  a  large  shaAvl  tied  over  his  "right  slioulder.  formino-  a  sling 
or  hammock  for  arm  and  baljy. 

About  2  o'clock  Ave  reached  Mr.  Blew's  place  at  Whitelaw,  and  received 
every  kmdness  from  them.  After  about  an  hour's  rest  Ave  had  to  mount 
horses  again  and  push  on.  as  the  days  Avere  short,  and  we  had  a  lono-  wav  to 
go.  As  we  advanced  the  road  got  narrower  and  more  difficult,  and  instead 
of  riding  two  or  three  al)reast.  Ave  had  to  go  in  single  file.  We  reached  Mr. 
RainboAv  s  place  at  Jumbunna  East  about  sunset,  very  tired  and  thankful  to 
get  to  bed  that  night.  I  stayed  with  our  friends  for  about  a  Aveek  or  ten 
days,  as  my  log  cabin  Avas  not  readv  for  me.  At  the  end  of  that  time  we 
again  mounted  our  horses  to  proceed  to  Kono-wak,  our  i>roper  destination. 
\\e  plunged  into  a  very  narrow  bridle  track,  where  Ave  could  touch  the  trees 
on  either  side,  and  could  not  see  the  skv  in  some  places,  so  dense  was  the  scrub. 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  351 

Our  horses  had  to  scramble  over  logs  and  through  mud  knee  deep  nearly-  all 
the  Avay.  Occasionally  we  had  to  duck  our  heads  to  avoid  overhanging 
branches.  At  last  we  came  to  what  Avas'  supposed  to  be  a  clearing  on  top  of  a 
very  high  hilL  from  Avhich  we  could  look  down  on  the  tops  of  the  trees  all 
round,  except  the  nairow  ridge  where  we  came  out,  and  on  a  ledge  some 
200  feet  below  my  husband  pointed  to  what  appeared  to  be  some  galvanised 
iron  on  top  of  a  ]3ile  of  logs,  and  said.  "There  is  your  home."  At  first  I  could 
not  speak,  and  my  eyes  filled  with  tears.  That  one  spot  of  iron,  in  the  midst 
of  a  sea  of  logs  and  stumps,  looked  so  desolate  that  my  heart  failed  me  for  the 
moment.  However,  after  scrambling  over  logs,  etc.,  we  managed  to  get  to 
the  cabin,  which,  on  closer  inspection,  proved  to  be  logs  piled  one  on  top  of 
the  other  in  chock  and  log  fashion,  except  that  tJie  cuts  were  deeper  to  allow 
the  logs  to  lie  more  closely.  There  was  a  large  fireplace,  made  of  wood  out- 
side, and  lined  with  stones  and  mud.  Thej'e  were  also  windows  and  a  door, 
but  it  was  not  eas}'  to  get  inside,  as  there  was  a  huge  stump  in  the  doorway. 
My  husband  had  Ijrought  down  some  llooring  boards  on  horseback,  and  had 
made  a  table  of  what  was  left  over,  after  flooring  the  two  rooms,  so  I  settled 
the  bab}'  on  the  table,  and  prepared  the  refreshments  ray  fi-iend  had  so  kindly 
packed  for  us.  after  Avhich  we  were  kept  busy  preparing  for  the  first  night 
in  our  new  home. 

As  the  logs  did  not  touch  each  other  in  ))laces.  there  was  plenty  of  venti- 
lation, and  the  wind  blew  our  hair  about  during  the  night.  Xext  day  we 
cut  strips  of  tree  ferns  and  put  them  in  the  crexices  on  the  inside,  and  at  night 
we  started  to  line  the  rooms  with  hessian  and  paper.  AVe  got  on  very  well 
with  the  hessian.  but  it  was  not  so  with  the  pajier.  Before  we  could  get  the 
second  piece  ready  the  first  was  blown  on  to  the  floor,  so  we  had  to  stop  and 
get  more  ferns,  and  pack  them  in  well  from  the  outside.  That  done,  we 
had  no  further  trouble,  and  our  cabin  began  to  look  comfortable.  The  next 
work  Avas  to  make  some  furniture  out  of  a  few  pine  boards  and  blackwood 
logs.  The  latter  re(iuired  a  lot  of  choj^ping  and  i)laning  to  get  it  to  the  size 
required.  We  made  a  sofa.  cot.  and  two  easy  chairs,  which,  when  covered 
with  cretonne,  looked  very  nice  and  comf()i'ta])le.  All  this  kind  of  work  had 
to  be  done  at  night,  as  there  was  fencinii'.  cleiii-ing.  etc..  to  i)e  done  in  the 
daytime. 

When  we  had  a  little  enclosure  made,  we  thought  we  oughl  to  h:i\t'  a 
pig.  As  our  friends  had  one  for  sale  my  husband  went  one  morning  on  our 
one  draught  hor.se  to  get  the  pig.  About  noon  I  could  hear  in  the  distance 
some  awful  scjuealing.  which  drew  nearer  as  T  listened.  By  and  by  he  apjieai-ed 
sitting  on  the  horse  with  a  good-sized  |)ig  in  a  bag  in  front  of  hiui.  struggling 
and  squealing  at  a  great  rate.  Of  course,  we  hnighed  at  getting  him  home 
and  oil*  the  lioi-se,  but  theic  cinne  a  lime  when  we  did  not  feel  like  laughing  at 
him. 

AVe  decided  to  ti-y  fishing  in  the  ii\er.  which  (lowed  at  the  bottom  oi"  our 
dealing,  and  invited  our  friends  to  come  with  us.  ^^^•  i\\ri\  ilie  day,  and  I 
made  great  ]u'('pai;il  ion^.  linking,  roasting,  etc.  foi*  the  feast.  Oui-  friends 
arrived  at  the  time  apix/mted.  and  after  having  a  cuj)  of  tea.  with  light  re- 
freshments, and  a  promise  of  a  substantial  meal  on  our  return,  we  startefl  for 
the  river.  After  scrambling  ovei-  logs.  etc..  we  got  there,  and  stayed  for  an 
hour  or  two,  but  the  fish  were  either  not  there  or  would  not  bite.  AVe  started 
for  home  feeling  very  tired  sind  hungry,  to  find  on  our  an-ival  that  the  pig 
had  l)een  there  before  us.  and  ha<l  destroyed  what  he  could  not  eat.  I  Icept 
the  bread,  cakes,  etc..  in  ;i  hirg<'  hoilei'.  ;ind  the  mcMt  in  ;i  tin  oi-  l»<».\  <»ul^ide  the 


35-2 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 


door,  as  tlioiv  \V!i>  not  too  much  room  inside.     Tlie  \)\(>:  hud  o-ot  out  and  en- 
joyed himself,  hut  I  had  to  (h)  some  hakino-  ere  we  conhl  have  anything  to  eat. 

If  we  ran  short  of  provisions,  it  meant  a  19-mile  ride,  leading  a  pack- 
horse  all  the  way.  My  husband  had  always  to  make  an  early  start,  and  then 
could  not  get  home  till  A^ery  late.  On  one  occasion  he  could  not  get  home 
till  half-past  eleven  at  night,  so  I  was  alone  except  for  the  baby.  At  times 
I  felt  very  frightened,  and  on  one  occasion  seeing  a  man  whom  I  did  not 
recognise  coming  down  tlie  hill  towards  the  house.  I  pulled  down  the  Avindow 
blind  and  shut  the  door.  I  did  not  like  doing  it.  as  the  poor  man  may  hixve 
been  hungry,  or  wanting  work.  Imt  my  nerves  got  the  l)etter  of  me.  Another 
day  a  large  iguana  came  close  to  the  door,  and  being  quite  alone  again  I 
tried  to  drive  it  off.  but  it  would  just  turn  round  and  follow  me  back  again. 
At  last,  after  a  more  daring  effort  on  my  part,  it  ran  a  few  feet  up  a  large 
tree  close  by.  I  felt  sure  it  would  come  back  again,  so  I  got  the  gun,  which 
had  been  left  loaded,  and  i-ested  it  on  the  fence.  I  Avas  shaking  too  much  to 
hold  it  as  I  had  seen  others  do.  I  took  a  very  carefid  aim  at  its  head,  an^l 
was  surprised  and  delighted  to  see  it  di'op  (juite  dead.  When  I  told  my  hus- 
band Avhat  I  had  done,  he  otily  laughed  till  he  saw  it.  and  even  then  it  was 
hard  for  him  to  believe  that  I  had  shot  it.  as  1  had  been  too  frightened  before 
to  hold  a  gim;  evidently  the  greater  fear  cured  me. 

All  night  the  dingoes  would  set  up  a  most  dismal  howl  that  made  one's 
blood  nni  cold,  and  the  roar  and  screams  of  the  bears  Avould  echo  through  the 
forest,  but  Avhen  the  day  broke  the  singing  of  the  birds  and  the  sweet  smell 
of  the  different  shrubs  would  make  one  forget  the  fears  of  the  night  before. 
and  thank  God  for  the  beauties  of  nature.  Oh  I  how  I  used  to  love  the  early 
mornings,  when  everything  aAvoke  to  new  life:  I  Avould  just  stand  and  feast 
on  the  beauty  and  glory  of  it  all.  There  Avas  a  si)ot  doAvn  by  the  river  Avhich 
I  neAer  tirecl  of  looking  at.  the  tall  tree  ferns,  Avith  their  graceful  spreading 
plumes,  the  Ijracken.  SAvordgrass.  clematis,  maiden-hair  fern,  and  Xmas  trees. 
etc.,  made  a  picture  impossible  for  me  to  descrii)e. 


^^«r^ 

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A     BEAUTY    SPOT     TX     THE     GREAT     FOREST, 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  353 

The  Suiidays  ul\va3^s  seemed  long  for  tlie  first  12  months;  we  woiihl  read 
till  tired,  and  then  go  out  and  sit  on  a  log  or  slump,  and  build  castles  in  the 
air.  It  was  too  rough  to  go  for  a  walk,  and  with  so  much  to  be  done  we 
almost  longed  for  Monday  to  come,  so  that  we  could  be  at  it  again. 

As  time  went  by  we  could  hear  what  seemed  to  be  thunder  in  the  distance, 
but  it  was  in  reality  the  noise  made  by  scrub  falling  as  it  was  cut.  One  day 
when  up  the  track,  my  husband  saw  what  appeared  to  be  a  break  in  the  tops 
of  the  trees  to  the  North ;  so,  the  following  Sunda}'  we  climbed  to  the  top  of 
the  hill,  and.  behold  I  there  was  a  gap  in  the  scrub.  Some  one  was  clearing, 
and  each  week  the  gap  grew  larger.  Then,  in  other  directions,  the  same  thing 
would  occur,  and  the  following  February  or  March,  we  would  see  clouds  of 
smoke.  Each  year  the  clearings  grew  larger,  and  the  smoke  more  intense, 
and  as  the  years  passed,  the  great  walls  of  scrub  were  cut  down,  and  bands 
of  men  could  be  seen  chopping  the  logs  up  after  the  lire  had  paased  over  them. 
Then,  the  welcome  news  v»ould  be  passed  round  that  there  was  a  woman  on 
that  or  the  other  clearing,  and  Ave  did  not  feel  so  altogether  alone.  It  was 
comforting  to  know  that,  if  trouble  came,  there  was  a  woman  to  be  got.  even 
if  it  took  two  or  three  hours  to  bring  her.  It  was  not  uncommon  to  have  one 
of  the  axemen  brought  in  to  have  a  bandage  or  two  put  on.  My  husband  .'-ame 
limping  in  one  day  with  a  piece  of  leather,  a  piece  of  sock,  and  a  piece  of  his 
big  toe  in  his  hand:  fortunately,  they  were  not  big  pieces.  The  axe  had 
slipped  and  cut  his  boot,  taking  the  three  pieces  off  as  clean  as  if  cut  with  a 
razor. 

As  we  could  bring  so  little  with  us.  we  had  not  even  a  piece  of  tin  to 
make  into  a  shovel  for  putting  the  burning  coals  on  the  camp-oven,  so  I  had 
to  use  a  piece  of  pine  board  cut  like  a  spade,  and  dip  it  in  water  every  time 
I  used  it.  We  brought  a  new  spade  and  shovel  with  us.  but  using  them  in  the 
fire  would  spoil  them  for  outside  work. 

I  have  reason  to  l)elieve  I  was  the  first  white  woman  to  come  to  Kongwak, 
and  my  second  son  was  the  hrst  child  born  there.  While  I  write,  he  is  on  the 
battlefield  in  France,  fighting  for  his  King  and  Country,  with.  I  trust,  the 
same  courage  and  tenacity  his  fatlier  shoAved  when  ti'ying  to  make  a  honie  in 
the  forest  of  South  Gippslajid. 


Recollections  and   Personal  Experiences  of   the  Great 
Fires   of   February,  1898. 

MR.  T.  J.  COVERDALE. 

The  disasters  caused  by  these  fires  were  confined  principally  to  South 
Gippsland.  and  covered  an  area  of  about  a  thousand  square  miles;  lying  be- 
tween the  Main  Gippsland  line  and  the  coast;  and  AVesternport  Bay  and 
Mirboo:  and  occurred  principally  on  the  1st  February.  1898.  locally  known  as 
"Red  Tuesday." 

It  might  be  as  Avell  to  take  a  glance  at  the  conditions  existing  nt  ihe  time 
over  the  greater  part  of  this  area,  so  as  to  better  understand  the  circumstances 
of  the  event.  A  gi-eat  deal  of  the  country  had  been  cleared  of  the  original 
scrub  fifteen  or  twenty  years  before,  leaving  a  forest  of  large  dry  trees,  many 
of  them  150  to  200  feet  in  height.  These  studded  the  clearings  thickly,  and 
the  sapwood  on  them  had  become  so  rotten  and  dry  that  they  were  ready  to 
burst  into  a  blaze  at  the  touch  of  a  spark.  Eound  the  butts  of  these  giant 
relics  of  a  gi"eat  forest  the  dry  grass  lay  thick  and  deep  over  most  of  the 
country,  for  the  Spring  had  been  a  good  one,  though  the  Summer  was  un- 
usually dry.  The  grass  alone  would  have  been  a  sufficient  menace,  but  when 
it  was  thickly  studded  with  trees,  up  the  dry  sapwood  of  Avhich  the  fire  ran 
as  if  they  had  been  sprinkled  Avith  kerosene,  any  attempt  to  beat  a  fire  was 
hopeless.  The  wind  tore  the  blazing  sapwood  from  the  Ijurning  trees,  and, 
scattei'ing  it  far  and  wide,  lighted  the  grass  and  other  trees  in  rapid  succes- 
sion, till  the  whole  country  was'  alight  for  miles,  and  every  old  clearing  a 
perfect  infenio  of  fire. 

The  difticulty  of  saving  stock  or  buildings  under  these  circum- 
stances can  be  imagined,  and  the  wonder  iis,  not  that  so  many  stock 
were  lost,  but  that  so  many  were  saved.  Some  brought  their  cattle  up 
about  the  homestead,  where  the  grass  was  shorter,  and  the  big  trees  had  been 
felled  for  some  distance  round ;  others,  like  m.vself ,  got  them  out  on  to  a  "neAV 
burn."  that  is,  a  piece  of  land  on  which  cut  scrub  has  been  recently  burnt. 
But  in  most  cases  there  was  little  time  to  muster,  and  round  about  tlie  home- 
steads was  often  the  hottest  place.  Avhen  the  Imildinffs  cauo-ht  fire,  which  they 
generally  did.  The  older  settlements  along  McDonald's  Track,  and  in  East 
Poowong.  suffered  most,  and  their  los'ses  m  buildings,  stock,  fencing,  and 
grass  were  very  heavy.  At  one  place  in  that  district,  whei-e  there  was  a 
patch  containing  a  few  acres  of  the  original  scrub  that  had  been  left  standing 
on  the  adjoining  portion  of  two  holdings,  120  head  of  cattle  Avere  destroyed 
in  a  few  minutes  in  one  lot.  A  creek  ran  through  the  piece  of  scrub,  and, 
driven  before  the  fire  coming  from  the  Xorth.  the  cattle  rushed  down  to  their 
watering  places.  Meanwhile  the  wind  carried  the  sparks  right  over  the 
gully,  and  lighted  the  hills  on  the  opposite  side.  Then  presently  the  scrub 
in  the  gully  caught  alight  at  the  lower  end.  and  the  fire  sAveeping  through  it 
left  the  cattle  lying  in  heaps  dead.  Against  a  fallen  tree  in  the  creek  eight 
big  bullocks  lay  piled  on  one  another.  In  a  hole  lower  doAvn.  tAvelve  more 
lay  dead.  In  another  hole  ten  stood  together  in  the  Avater.  but  they  had 
reached  it  over  hot  ashes,  and  burning  charcoal,  and  tlieir  hoofs  dro])p'ed  off' 


RECOLLECTIONS    AND    EXPERIENCES    OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES.    ,S5o 

as  soon  as  they  came  out  of  the  water.  All  up  the  gully  they  were  lying  in 
heaps — three  or  four  together — some  barely  scorched,  but  all  dead:  suifocated 
by  the  smoke  and  heat.  Others  were  smashed  up  and  charred  where  burning 
trees  had  fallen  on  them.  On  some  of  the  clearings  dead  shee])  were  lying 
in  scores  behind  the  charred  stumps  of  the  big  trees  to  Avhich  they  had  run 
for  shelter.  Some  had  gone  into  hollow  logs,  where  they  had  been  used  to 
camp  out  of  the  heat  of  the  sun.  and  perished  there.  But  vokunes  rather 
than  pages  would  be  required  to  tell  the  story  of  that  terrible  week. 

It  must  not  be  supposed  that  all  the  homesteads  destroyed  were 
burnt  on  "Ked  Tuesday,"'  nor  that  those  burnt  on  that  day  were 
destroyed  at  one  fell  swoop:  some  of  them  were,  btit  in  mast  cases 
there  had  been  a  long  battle  with  little  fires  before  the  main  body 
of  the  fire  came  up.  And  then  the  final  struggle  began.  Faster  and 
faster  the  rain  of  burning  sapwood  and  sparks  fell  on  grass,  fences, 
and  Ituildings.  starting  fires  in  all  direction-^;  till  at  last  the  unfortti- 
nate  people  rushing  from  ]ioint  to  point  to  put  out  fresh  outbreaks,  blinded 
by  the  smoke  and  utterly  exhausted,  could  do  no  more,  and  the  \  ictorious  lire 
swept  all  before  it.  Amidst  the  burning  homesteads  and  outbuildings,  and 
surrounded  by  the  blazing  forest,  sending  showers  of  sparks  and  burning 
charcoal  over  everything,  it  was  all  they  could  do  in  many  cases  to  ^a\e  llieir 
own  lives.  Some  got  down  underground  tanks,  while  others  threw  water 
over  each  other  to  keep  their  clothes  from  being  burnt  off  them.  One  man 
made  his  children  lie  on  the  ground,  and  covering  them  Avilh  a  l)lanket  threw 
water  over  them.  Sparks  fiew  into  every  creviee.  and  starteil  fires  in  most 
unlikely  places.  One  family  ])laced  a  quantity  of  clothing  and  valuable?:  in 
an  iron  tank  when  they  saw  it  was  hopeless  trying  to  save  the  house:  a  spark 
blew  in  through  a  small  hole,  and  burnt  the  lot.  A  man  took  all  the  saddles 
and  harness  out  of  the  lunning  stal)le.  and  putting  them  on  a  clear  place 
threw  some  water  o\er  them:  but  when  he  went  for  them  again  tlu-rc  was 
nolhiug  but   the  ii'oiiwnrk  left,  so  inti'ii^c  was  the  heat. 

-Many  domestic  animals  also  ])ci'ished,  dog.^.  cats  and  fowls  falling  victims. 
Even  the  harems  sometimes  failed  to  save  themselves;  and  I  renieml)cr  seeing 
a  Ijig  snake  iliat  had  evidently  received  his  last  c.ill  in  a  very  angry  frame  of 
mind:  ilic  lii-c  bad  ajipai'cntly  come  on  hiu'  as  lie  lay  coiled — j)rol)ahly  asleep 
— and  -luiiu  liini  inio  sa\agc  i(ii\ity,  lie  had  shot  up  Ins  Ix^ad  in  the  midst 
of  ..his  coil-  in  the  usual  attitude  o!  battle,  with  llatlened  head  and  neck  and 
stiffened  naiscles,  ready  t<i  .-ti'ike.  anfl  so  he  had  <lied :  and  so  he  remained 
.till  decay  o\-crcanie  the  rigidity  of  tlu>  nmsclcs  stillVncd  in  his  lasl  vengeful 
purpose. 

In  some  eax's  where  nider  cleaiiiigs  had  beiMi  made,  and  the  big  timber 
felled  to  a  greater  (|i^tan(•e  aroinid  the  homestead,  a  snecessfid  fight  was  put 
up.  especially  if  there  wa--  plenty  ol'  help  axailable;  biil  under  less  faxonrable 
circumstances  the   light    was   hopeless. 

Although  "Ked  Tuesday"  was  by  far  the  nio^l  disastrous  day.  -onie 
escaped  on  that  day  tt)  fall  \ictinis  later  on.  Su<h  was  my  own  fate,  .\iiti- 
cipating  a  big  bush  lire  that  yeai-  from  the  exi--ten<'e  of  the  conditions  already 
mentioned,  and  fioni  the  f;icl  that  (here  were  l'»()  acres  of  cut  scrub  lying 
ready  to  buiii  alongside  of  me.  I  determined  to  clear  oil'  all  the  stock'  I  pos- 
sibly could,  and  I  had  just  got  a  lot  of  the  sheep  away,  when  the  scrub  i-e- 
ferred  to  caught  lii-e  accidentally.  That  was  about  a  forttiight  before  the  big 
fires,  and  1  tliought  it  Avas  a  ca-c  with  us  then:  but  the  day  was  cool,  and  the 
wind    fa\  (tin'able.    with    a    lillle   daunuie--^    in    the    uiornini;".   --o   that    it     !id    lue 


^h^^mp 


RECOLLECTIONS    AND    EXPERIENCES    OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES.    :i51 

Jittle  harm  beyond  lightina-  a  few  trees  on  the  phice,  and  gixing  us  a  fort- 
iiig-ht's  hard  Avork  looking-  after  them,  and  what  I  had  ch'eaded  for  Aveeks 
proved  really  my  salvation  later  on.  for  it  was  on  to  this  "burn*"  we  just 
managed  to  get  the  stock  in  time  to  save  them,  Avhen  my  own  place  was  swepv 
In-  fire  three  days  after  "Eed  Tuesday." 

On  *'Ked  Tuesday"  we  had  been  down  to  Bena.  truckiiig  some  bullocks; 
the  day  was  not  particularly  hot.  but  a  strong  North-East  wind  was  blowing, 
and  eA-erything  Avas  very  dry.  ScA-eral  others  Avere  trucking  also,  and  Ave  had 
been  busy  for  about  an  hour  helping  each  other  truck,  and  not  noticing  the 
Aveather.  Avhen  some  one  remarked.  "Hoav  dark  it  is  getting,  there  is  going  to 
be  a  storm."  But  on  h)oking  intently  into  the  dark  mi^st-s  of  cloud  over- 
head, Ave  discovered  them  to  l)e  immense  volumes  of  smoke  rolling  before  a 
high  wind  from  the  Xorth-East.  and  darkening  the  whole  sky  from  horizon 
to  zenith.  We  kncAv  then  that  something  tragic  Avas  happening  in  the  North- 
East.  AVe  kncAv  also  that  the  fire  Avas  a  long  Avay  off,  as  there  was  no  smoke 
loAA'  doAvn  in  our  neighbourhood.  But  everyone  got  a  scare,  and  Ave  lost  no 
time  "in  getting  to  the  horses  and  making  for  home.  When  the  man  and  I 
got  back.  Ave  could  see  no  fire,  but  Ave  could  hear  the  hum  of  it  a  long  Avay 
off.  and  the  darkness  Avas  increasing,  although  it  Avas  only  about  3  o'clock  in 
the  afternoon:  so  I  decided  to  muster  the  stock  and  run  them  out  on  the 
''burn" — the  land  before  referred  to.  on  Avhich  the  scrub  had  recently  been 
burnt.  By  five  o'clock  we  had  got  them  together:  it  Avas  too  dark  to  count 
them,  so  taking  it  for  granted  they  Avere  all  there.  Ave  bustled  tluMu  out  on  the 
burn — sheep  and  cattle  together. 

Almost  the  only  light  now  A\as  the  red  glare  of  the  distant  fire 
reflected  on  tlie  canopy  of  smoke  overhead,  and  to  look  ujiwards  Avas 
like  looking  up  into  a  great  dome  of  burnished  copper,  that  glowed 
and  paled  alternately  under  the  influence  of  the  Avind  on  the  dist4mt 
masses  of  flame.  There  seemed  to  be  some  unusual  quality  in  the  atmosi^hen^ 
that  ■'•hanged  the  appearance  of  flame  and  of  l)uniing  (Mnbei"s.  Flame  burned 
with  a  steely  blue  light,  and  embers  looked  like  glowing  piece^*  of  silver. 
This  we  noticed  in  passing  a  few  trees  and  stum})s  still  alight  on  the  burn, 
and  when  striking  matches.  The  wind  had  now  gone  <lown.  and  there  Avas 
no  sound  but  tlie  hum  of  the  fire  like  the  sound  of  breakers  on  the  coast  a 
long  Avay  ofl'.  Thi>.  with  the  red  canopy  overhead,  and  the  altered  a[)!)ear- 
ance  of  excrvthiug  in  llic  strange  light,  gave  a  weirdness  to  the  night  not 
easily  foigotten.  Hiding  to  the  top  of  a  hill  from  which  we  could  get  a  \  iew 
P^astward.  up  the  \allev  of  the  Bass,  we  caught  our  first  view  of  tlu>  lire.  .V 
far-blown  spai'ic.  carried  along  in  ^omc  uijpcr  current,  had  lit  a  ])atch  of  cut 
sciiib  f;ir  u])  the  xallcy.  and  the  strange  looL'ing  (lame  a])peared  to  be  Mowing 
o\er  it.  It  look'ed  like  a  lake  of  moheii  sihci-.  with  tongues  of  it  running  up 
the  dry  trees  like  .^ihcr  >iiak('>.  We  di<l  not  stay  to  admire  it.  I)ut  rode  home 
to  pre])arc  for  llic  enemy. 

But  our  Waterloo  wa,~  not  yet.  The  (1;iiu|ine>s  of  the  evening 
wa*;  beginning  to  I'all.  and  lb(  wind  had  gone  down  a  good  deal; 
and  the  timber  was  not  >o  ilry  where  the  (ii'c  wa<.  So  ilint  by  the  time 
it  reached  us  it  bad  steadied  (ktwn.  and  by  uoiking  all  night  we  were  able  to 
check  it  for  the  time,  iiut  on  the  I-'riday  following  tlie  wind  cluuiged  to  the 
'North-West,  bringing  the  big  lire  thai  hml  done  all  the  damage  ali<iut 
Poowong.  up  the  valley  of  the  liass  to  us.  W'e  had  been  battling  since  about 
4  o'clock'  in  the  morning  with  a  \\n'  on  an  adjoiniiiir  ])rop('rty  on  the  West: 
and  the  Tuesday's  fire  on  iln'  South-East  was  also  begimiing  to  i-evive.  About 
12  o'clock  we  could  lieai'  the  roar  of  the  biir  fi'"<'-  and  T  knew  it  was  a  case  this 


;?.=>S     RECOLLECTIONS    AND    EXPERIENCES    OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES. 

time,  ami  llu-  only  thing'  to  be  done  was  to  get  the  stock  out  of  the  road,  if 
possible:  though  I  way  afraid  we  had  left  it  too  htte.  Sending  one  of  the 
men  after  the  horses.  I  calU'd  up  the  other  three  to  the  house  and  told  them 
what  I  proposed  to  do:  which  was,  for  two  of  us  to  go  after  the  stock,  and  the 
others  to  defend  the  house  and  buildings. 

After  considering-  the  possibilities  of  an  miderground  tank  as  a 
place  of  retreat  if  the  worst  .should  happen,  they  agreed  to  rstand  by 
the  homestead  as  long  as  possible.  So  placing  a  bottle  of  whisky  on 
the  table,  and  telling  them  not  to  let  it  get  burnt.  I  gTabbed  a  billy 
and  some  tucker  in  case  of  a  long  campaign,  and  Murray — the  other  man-- 
and  myself  rode  otf  as  hard  as  we  could  to  get  the  cattle  and  sheep  together 
and  out  on  the  "'burn."  We  had  no  time  to  spare,  for  the  stock  had  iill  re- 
turned to  their  run  since  the  Tuesday,  and  there  were  still  190  heavl  of  cattle 
and  400  sheep  on  the  place.  Fortunately  it  was  about  the  time  of  day  a"  hen 
the  cattle  Avere  down  about  the  watering  places  along  the  Bass.  But  the 
sheep  were  scattered  all  OAcr  their  OAvn  paddock  behind  trees  and  in  IioHoaa' 
stinnps  out  of  the  heat.  The  Bass  runs  roughly  P^ast  to  West  across  my  pro- 
perty for  about  a  mile.  To  the  South.  Avhere  the  cattle  Avere.  the  ground 
rises  gently  from  flats  along  the  creek.  To  the  North  a  range  rises  to  a 
height  of  about  300  feet,  and  on  top  of  this  Avere  the  sheep.  Adjoining  on 
the  East,  but  only  on  the  North  side  of  the  creek,  AAas  the  "burn" — tlie  only 
place  of  safety. 

Sending  Murray  after  the  cattle.  I  AA'ent  after  the  sheep  myself, 
and  rousing  them  out  of  hollow  stumps  and  from  behind  trees.  AA^here 
they  had  been  sheltering  from  the  sun.  I  got  them  together  and  on  the  go  for 
the  •"burn."  But  it  Avas  fearfully  hot.  and  it  AAas  tedious  Avork  forcing  the 
sheep  through  the  long  grass  and  the  thistles,  and  the  dog  AAas  knocked  up. 
I  got  them  AA-ithin  about  ten  chains  of  the  burn  AA'hen  they  stuck  up  under 
some  green  trees,  so  I  left  them  there  for  a  spell,  aiul  Avent  back  to  help 
Murray  with  the  cattle.  He  had  got  them  all  mustered,  and  about  half 
of  them  OA-er  to  the  North  side  of  the  creek,  bitt  it  AA-as  a  bad  crossing  place, 
and  l)efore  the  tail  of  them  AA^as  OA'er,  the  head  of  the  mob  aa-rs  aa-cII  up  the 
range  and  stringing  along  WestAvard  in  the  AA'rong  direction  toAvards  the  fire. 
I  AA-ent  ahead  to  turn  them,  and  in  doing  so  rode  OA'er  a  spin-  on  the  range  and 
came  in  sight  of  the  fire  aAA ay  doAvn  the  Aalley  of  the  Bass  to  the  North- West. 
My  hair  nearly  stood  on  end;  I  did  not  expect  to  see  the  fire  so  clo.se:  it  Avas 
only  about  half  a  mile  aAvay,  and  came  rolling  over  the  dry  sedge  grass,  AA'ire 
grass  and  undergroAA'th  in  great  red  billoAA's — a  perfect  torrent  of  flame.  I 
did  not  wait  for  a  .second  look,  bitt  doubling  the  cattle  back  on  the  others  that 
Murray  had  uoaa-  got  oA-er  the  creek,  aac  bustled  them  along  the  face  of  the 
range  as  hard  as  Ave  could  go.  the  fire  roaring  behind  all  fhe  Avhile. 

Up  till  then  the  Avind  had  been  rather  in  our  faA-our,  but 
noAv  it  changed,  and  blowing  directly  on  to  us  from  the  fire,  the  burn- 
ing stuff  soon  began  to  fall,  around  us  and  on  us,  burning  little  holes 
in  our  hats  and  clothes;  fortunately  both  we  and  the  horses  were 
too  Avet  Avith  perspiration  to  burn  very  freely.  Occa.sionally  a  spark 
Avould  fall  on  a  bullock,  making  him  SAvitch  his  tail  and  rush 
forward.  But  things  soon  began  to  look  serious:  sparks  Avere  lighting  the 
grass  around  and  among  the  cattle,  little  black  patches,  appearing  suddenly 
without  apparent  cause  and  spreading  fast.  We  Avere  passing  among  a 
number  of  heajjs  of  Avood  not  bm-nt  oif  the  previous  year,  and  these  began  to 
take  fire  and  blaze.     The  cattle  did  not  like   it.  and   neithe''  did    we.     "Bv 


RECOLLECTIONS    AND    EXPERIENCES    OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES.    3o9 

G — d,  boss,"  said  Miii'ray,  ''I  reckon  if  we're  here  much  longer  we'll  snuff 
out."  But  Ave  stuck  to  them  till  we  got  them  through  the  heaps  and  close  to 
the  burn:  then  I  left  him  and  went  after  the  sheep,  but  without  n)iich  hope  of 
saving  them.  They  Avere  just  where  I  had  left  them,  standing  with  their 
heads  down  and  their  mouths  open,  panting:  and  the  gra.ss  was  alight  about 
three  chains  away  from  them.  I  never  expected  to  get  them  out,  but  deter- 
mined to  have  a  try  for  it.  The  big  timber  was  not  alight  round  them 
yet  and  there  was  no  fire  between  them  and  the  burn.  Biu  they  were  bad  to 
shift,  and  the  dog  was  played  out:  he  could  only  wobble  round  the  sheep. 
He  tried  to  bark,  but  could  only  produce  a  hoarse  grunt,  and  they  took  very 
little  notice  of  him.  At  lasl  I  got  them  on  to  the  burn,  with  not  a  moment 
to  spare,  for  the  grass  fire  was  right  on  the  horse's  heels.  Then  the  main 
body  of  the  fire  came  up  with  a  roar  through  the  dry  timber,  and  1  had  still 
to  keep  going  on  the  burn  to  get.aAvay  from  the  heat  of  it.  Leaving  the  sheep 
in  safety,  I  Avas  just  going  down  the  burn  parallel  with  the  fire  to  see  how 
Murra}^  Avas  getting  on.  as  I  could  not  see  him  from  Avhere  1  was.  when  he 
came  up  over  the  hill  and  informed  me  that  he  had  got  all  the  cattle  out  on 
to  the  burn  and  driven  them  well  back  into  safety,  and  the  whole  country 
behind  them  wa>  ablaze.     And  so  we  saved  them. 

We  could  do  nothing  more  now  —  this  Avas  the  finish;  and 
the  place  Avas  swept  from  end  to  end.  So  Ave  took  the  saddles 
otf  our  steaming  horses  and  sat  doAvn  on  a  .  log  at  a  safe  dis- 
tanoe  watching  the  fire.  It  was  a  grand  sight;  the  country  out  of 
which  we  had  just  brought  the  s'heep  and  cattle  Avas  noAv  a  hoAvling  furnace 
fanned  by  a  hurricane,  and  the  noise  AA'as  terrific;  we  had  to  shout  to  hear 
each  other  speak.  Every  great  tree  Avas  a  roaring  pillar  of  fire  from  which 
red  banners  of  fiame  streamed  out  to  leeAvard.  The  cau.se  of  the  fire  being 
so  strong  here  Avas  that  it  Avas  a  patch  of  very  heavy  dry  timlu'r  which  iiad 
never  had  a  fire  through  it  since  it  A\as  killed  twenty  years  before. 

A  Inmdred  acres  of  green  scrub  adjoining  on  the  North  also  caught  fire, 
burning  fiercely  and  sending  up  great  masses  of  black  smoke,  covering  the  sky. 
"\\'e  had  plenty  of  time  to  survey  the  sight,  for  we  were  marooned  there  for  the 
next  fiA-e  or  six  hours,  being  unable  to  get  back  through  the  burning  timber. 
jVfnrray  had  stuck  to  the  billy  and  tucker  .strap]:)ed  .securely  on  (hi'  sadtiU', 
through  all  the  tribulation,  and  they  came  in  handy  now.  W r  had  had 
nothing  to  eat  since  eai-ly  morning,  and  veiy  little  then,  as  commissariat 
anangements  had  been  up.set  lately:  so  we  thought  wc  might  as  well  have 
a  snack  as'  it  Avas  now  night.  Pie  found  some  water  on  the  burn  and  boiled 
the  billy,  but  Ave  could  eat  very  little — only  drink  tea.  After  things  cooled 
doAvn  a  bit  we  made  another  attempt  about  nine  o'clock  to  get  back  to  the 
homestead,  as  I  Avas  anxious  about  th(>  men.  By  dodging  about  where  the 
timber  Avas  a  bit  thinner  we  got  wiiliin  cooee  of  the  house,  which  we  (•(»uld 
not  see  for  smoke,  though  the  fires  made  it  light  enougji,  and  gi\  ing  a  cooee 
Ave  Avei-e  relieved  to  hear  it  ansAvei'ed  from  tli(>  homestead:  then  making  a 
dash  for  it  we  were  soon  exchanging  expei-iences  with  the  defenders.  By 
dint  of  hard  woi'k'  with  the  beat(i's  and  plenty  of  water  they  had  managetl 
to  "k-eep  the  fiag  Hying,"  though  ibcy  had  had  a  particularly  hot  time  of 
it.  and  theii-  thoughts  had  often  turned  to  tiic  underground  tanlc.  .\  lirehreak 
round  the  house  and  the  burning  olf  of  rubbish  some  time  before  had  helpeij 
them  considei'ably  to  malce  goofl  the  (hd'ence. 

That   night   the  hills  weic  a   niagnilicenl    sight:  every   tree   was  alight    for 
miles,  and  the  ground  wa:^  strewn  with   faHeii  fragments  biirnitig  ami  glowing 


stiO    RECOLLECTIONS   AND   EXPERIENCES   OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES. 

in  I  lie  darkness.  But  we  were  in  no  mood  to  admire  it.  thinking  of  the 
unfortunate  animals:  for  there  wa.s  not  a  blade  of  grass  left.  We  turned 
the  horses  we  had  been  riding  all  day  into  the  garden.  Avhere  there  was  a 
'ittle  green  stutf  and  rubbish,  also  a  bed  of  carrots,  which  after  a  while  they 
learnt  to  yank  out  of  the  loose  ground  with  their  hoofs  and  teeth.  The 
sparks  were  still  flying  thick  from  the  burning  trees  all  round,  and  we  Ead 
to  stand  watch  and  watch  that  night  and  for  several  nights  for  fear  of 
accidents.  Our  bedding,  spare  clothes  and  valuables  had  all  been  buried  in 
the  garden  long  before;  but  a  shakedown  on  a  bag  under  a  tree  was  good 
enough  for  such  hot  nights  and  much  safer  than  inside. 

Next  morning,  what  a  scene  of  desolation.  Gone  were  the  great  white 
trees  we  had  l(M)ked  on  for  years:  gone  were  the  fences  and  yards,  and  gone 
too  was  every  blade  of  grass.  Xothing  to  be  seen  but  black  stumps,  black 
ground,  and  great  black  logs  smouldering  in  all  directions:  while  low  doAvn 
over  everything  hung  the  smoke,  smarting  the  eyes  and  oliscuring  the  distant 
hills.  Truly  it  was  a  desolate  prospect,  accentuated  as  it  was  by  the  starving 
cattle  wandering  to  and  fro  looking  for  something  to  eat.  My  fir.st  thought 
was  for  them,  and  I  went  to  Bena  first  thing  in  the  mornino;  to  order  trucks 
for  those  fit  for  market  and  fodder  for  the  rest.  But  I  could  only  get  five 
cattle  trucks,  as  there  had  been  a  rush  on  owing  to  the  fires  on  Tuesday,  and 
I  could  not  get  any  sheep  trucks  for  the  following  market  on  such  short 
notice.  Xext  Tuesday  we  got  a  lot  of  the  Indlocks  away,  and  after  a  time  the 
hay  arrived  for  the  others.  In  the  meantime.  I  don't  know  how  they  lived. 
Before  the  fire  there  was  a  great  number  of  big  gi-een  thistles  on  the  gi'ound, 
they  had  been  too  sappy  to  burn,  but  the  fire  had  left  them  brown  and  dead. 
These  the  stock  soon  discovered  were  eatable,  and  before  long  cleared  them 
all  off  into  the  roots.  There  was  also  some  pencilwood  scrub  on  the  flats  that 
the  fire  had  killed:  this  the  cattle  broke  down,  eating  the  dead  leaves  and 
'■mall  twigs  on  it.  In  the  damper  places  in  the  flats  also  were  the  charred 
butts  of  the  sedge  grass  and  tussocks,  which  tlie  sheep  worried  till  they  were 
literally  black  in  the  face,  and  looked  like  a  mob  of  well-bred  8hrops. 

One  way  or  another  the  stock  managed  to  pull  through  until  I  sent  some  of 
them  to  market,  others  to  grass  out  of  the  district.  But  it  was  a  o;reat  loss,  of 
course,  having  to  sell  them  in  glutted  markets  and  before  they  were  fit  to  go.  A 
great  many  people  sent  the  stock  they  had  saved  to  the  bayonet  grafts  plains 
near  the  coast.  l)ut  the  feed  was  not  suitable  and  the  place  was  overstocked. 
and  a  lot  of  them  died.  I  sent  mine  to  Lang  Lang;  and  thev  did  fairlv  well. 
All  I  lost  in  the  fire  itself  was  one  bullock,  killed  bv  a  burning  limb  falling 
on  him.  and  a  few  sheep:  but  I  lost  a  lot  of  sheep  afterwards  throuirh 
straying,  as  there  were  no  fences  for  miles.  The  Government  supiilied  fodder 
gratis  or  at  a  very  cheap  rate,  but  most  of  the  settlers  were  too  indei>endent 
to  avail  themselves  of  it  and  purchased  their  own. 

^Vhen  the  disaster  became  loiown  in  Melbourne  larae  quantities  of 
clothmg  were  generously  sent  up  from  the  citv,  as  many  of  the  settlers  had 
lost  everything  except  what  they  stood  up  in. "  There  were  very  fcAv  that 
required  more  than  the  most  temporary  assistance,  but  the  promptitude  of 
the  city  people  was  very  commendable.  Most  of  the  articles  sent  up  were 
useful,  but  some  were  of  rather  doubtful  serAice  in  the  back  blocks.  Fashion- 
able life  was  represented  by  several  evening  dresses  and  a  fcAv  dress  suits. 
And  one  sturdy  scrubcutter  was  seen  doing  the  "block""  in  a  top  hat  and 
claAv-hammer  coat  surmounting  a  pair  of' old  moleskins  with  'liowyanff'" 
Trimmings.     A  consignment  of  straw  mattresses  left  carelesslv  overni<rht  on 


RECOLLECTIONS   AND   EXPERIENCES   OF    THE    GREAT    FIRES.    .361 

a  vei-imdali  in  the  township  Avas  much  appreciated  by  a  lot  of  starving  cows 
wandering  to  and  fro  seeking  what  they  might  devour. 

After  the  fire  came  the  reckpning  of  the  cost.  No  doubt  it  had  done 
some  good  in  clearing  up  a  lot  of  old  logs  and  undergTowth,  and  in  burning 
down  and  burning  away  thousands  of  big  trees.  But  against  this  it  had 
destroyed  much  of  the  grass  Avhich,  being  all  artificial,  had  to  be  resown  in 
many  cases:  if  not  resown  the  pasture  gets  patcln-  and  weedy.  Tt  had  also 
strewn  the  ground  Avith  gi'eat  logs,  causing  a  lot  of  heavy  and  expensive 
clearing.  Then  houses  and  outbuildings  had  to  be  rebuilt,  fencing  aiul  yards 
re-erected,  stock  replaced  and  orchards  replanted.  Dogwood  also  came  up 
very  thickly  on  the  burnt  ground  after  the  fires,  especially  where  there  Avere 
no  sheep,  costing  a  lot  of  money  to  clear  it.  Fortunately  for  burning  off 
operations,  the  folloAving  Autumn  and  Winter  were  unusually  dry  and  the 
timber  burnt  well.  But  the  dry  Aveather  was  bad  for  the  newly  soAvn  seed, 
and  for  the  grass  roots  scorched  by  the  fire,  and  the  grass  came  late. 

About  July  and  August  the  people  began  to  bring  back  AA-hat  AAas  left 
of  their  cattle  from  the  plains  and  elscAvhere,  and  the  coiuitry  began  to 
recoA'er.  It  Avas  not  until  years  afterAvards,  hoAvcAer,  that  the  scars  caused 
by  the  fire  were  thoioughly  healed:  that  the  properties  Avere  all  re-cleared, 
re-sown  and  re-fenced  and  the  homesteads  all  rebuilt.  The  removal  of  so 
much  of  the  dead  forest  (piite  changed  the  appearance  of  the  country  in 
many  places:  ncAv  landscapes  appeared.  AAith  AieAvs  of  green  hills  and  valleys 
previously  unsuspected.  But  by  the  settlers  them>selves  that  strenuous  Aveek 
in  February,  1898,  will  never  be  forgotten.  The  long  battle  Avith  the  fires  in 
the  heat  and  the  smoke,  the  anxiety  and  the  crushing  disaster  in  the  end,  AA'ith 
its  conse(iuent  Avorries.  aged  many  of  them  more  than  years  of  hard  Avork, 
and  laid  in  some  the  seeds  of  ill-health:  one  connnon  complaint  Avas 
opthalmia  caused  by  the  heat  and  smoke  endured  Avhik^  Avorking  at  the  fires, 
and  Avhich  sometimes  ended  in  permanently  impaired  sight.  It  AA-as  a  cruel 
setback  to  them  after  all  the  years  of  struggling  and  tardy  prospects  of 
success,  but  the  men  Avho  had  cleared  the  great  forest  of  South  (Tipi)sland 
were  not  to  be  daunted,  even  by  such  a  disaster.  They  fought  on  gamely  in 
spite  of  the  odds,  and  soon  the  prosperity  of  the  counti-y,  that  seemed  to  liave 
been  wi]»cd  out  by  tlic  flics,  i-ose  auaiii.  l'li(iciiix-Hkc.  fnuii  the  a-bcs.  and  has 
continued  unchecked  e\ei-  since. 

The  yeais  ha\e  lollc*!  by  since  then,  each  bringiug  it^  changes  .iiid  its 
sensations,  but  "'The  year  of  the  (ireat  Fires"  still  stands  ;is  one  IVoin  which 
to  date  events  in  the  memoi-ies  of  tlie  pioneers. 


Australia  Phoenix. 


MISS  F.  FINN. 


O'er  the  quiet  scrul)  and  the  towering-  ^ims. 
A  peaceful  hush  like  slumber  comes: 
The  cottouAvood  flowers  of  dazzling  Avhite 
Cover  the  branches  like  stars  in  the  night. 
The  supplejack  flings  his  mantle  of  fluff. 
Like  a  fairy's  cloak  o'er  the  branches  rough. 
And  the  soft  green  moss  spreads  its  kindly  veil 
On  tall  trees  fallen  o'er  hill  and  dale. 
AVhere  the  yellow  wealth  of  the  wattle  tree 
Billows  like  waves  in  a  golden  sea. 

Here,  parrots  glitter  in  red  and  green, 
The  jay  with  feathers  of  sober  sheen, 
The  iaiighing  jackass,  the  whip  bird  bright, 
Wheel  and  whirl  in  their  joyous  flight. 
The  jewelled  lizard  witli  scampering  feet, 
Takes  no  heed  of  the  noonday  heat. 
The  Kangaroo  and  wallaby  pass 
Taking  their  toll  of  the  luscious  grass. 
Tlwre  Nature  scatters  with  lavish  hand 
Her  wealth  of  treasure  through  all  the  land. 

A  swagman  passing  along  the  Avay 

Boiling  his  ''billy''  one  Summer's  day 

With  careless  hand  his  camp  fire  scatters. 

He  had  had  his  meal,  and  nought  else  matters. 

A  puff  of  wind,  a  spark,  a  flicker, 

A  reddening  glow  o'er  the  sticks  runs  quicker; 

A  few  dry  leaves,  like  a  pow^ler  train. 

Swiftly  carries  the  creeping  flame. 

Some  rotting  branches,  a  sapless  tree, 

An  upward  spring — and  the  fire-fiend's  free. 

Higher  and  iiighei"  his  red  arms  grasp. 
Tighter  is  drawn  tlieir  Iwrning  clasp; 
From  tree  to  tree  the  red  flame  goas. 
Searing  the  gras's  that  beneath  them  grows; 
Yet  wider  those  blazing  arms  stretch  forth 
Eastward  and  Westward,*  to  South  and  North, 
Till  all  the  land,  like  a  funeral  pyre. 
Is  a  blazing  furnace  of  liquid  fire. 
Wide  flung  are  the  blood  red  gates  of  hell. 
And  dancing  devils  the  red  tide  swell. 


AUSTRALIA    PHOENIX.  336 

Like  a  far-oft'  whisper  of  coming  ill 

The  hearts  of  God's  creatures  with  terror  fill, 

The  lyre-bird  starts  in  the  shadows  dim. 

And  the  jackass'  laugh  has  an  echo  grim, 

The  parrots  fly  with  frightened  shriek. 

And  the  wallaby  leaps  o'er  the  reddening  creek: 

The  snake  and  possum  go  side  by  side. 

Blind  fear,  to  their  flight,  the  onh^  guide. 

The  fire-fiend  comes,  with  his  red  arms  spread. 

Gathers  them  living,  and  leaves  them  dead. 

The  whole  wide  land,  that  has  glowed  with  life, 

Laughed  with  brightness,  and  throbbed  with  strife. 

Lies  charred  and  l)lackened,  as  formless  things 

To  which  no  semblance  of  life  now  clings; 

Xor  bird,  nor  beast,  nor  thing  that  crawls. 

No  sound  on  the  deathly  silence  falls. 

And  Autumn's  fingers  are  powerless  quite 

To  soften  destruction's  awful   blight. 

And  Winter  comes  with  its  cold  and  rain, 

But  brings  no  hel]^  in  its  bitter  train. 

The  slow  weeks  pass  on  their  weary  way. 

Till,  suddenly,  one  brightening  day 

A  gi'een  flush  spreads  o'er  the  waking  earth. 

The  fresh  grass  springs  in  its  bright  new  l)irth. 

The  radiant  sun  and  the  soft  Spring  air 

Bring  forth  all  manner  of  Aerdure  rare: 

The  settler  now,  with  hardy  toil. 

Clears  and  prepares  the  fruitful  soil. 

And  the  stricken  land,  that  had  useless  lain, 

Is  ready  for  cattle  or  golden  grain. 

Florence  Finn. 


A  Review. 

MR.  R.  S.  B.  YOUNG. 

For  several  years,  while  in  its  tirsi  stages  of  development,  the  forest 
country  of  South  (xippsland,  into  which  the  writer  made  his  debut  as  a  Bank 
Manager  twenty-three  years  ago,  was  an  insatiable  absorl)er  of  capital,  which, 
either  in  the  form  of  savings  accumulated  elsewhere  by  the  new  settlers,  or 
money  borrowed,  had  to  be  laid  out  in  clearing  and  sowing  (lo\\n  some  portion 
of  the  area  selected,  then  covered  with  an  almost  im])enetrab]e  growth  of 
scrub  thickly  studded  with  giant  tre©-^.  a  few  of  whose  skeletons  still  stand  here 
and  there  to  tell  the  tale  of  the  wonderful  transformation  etfected  by  the 
combined  eti'orts  of  those  lion-hearted  pioneers,  and  the  oj^erations  of  nature. 
Under  the  adverse — indeed,  almost  impossible — conditions  which  they  had 
then  to  face,  the  improvements  made  Avere  necessarily  crude  and  rough;  but 
this  preliminary  scratching  of  the  surface  Avas  sufficient  to  demonstrate  beyond 
all  doubt  that  there  was  a'  marvellous'  fertility  in  the  soil,  and  gave  the 
intrepid  selector  fresh  heart  to  persevere  in  wliat  must  often  haA'e  seemed 
to  him  a  heart-breaking  struggle. 

The  next  stage  Avas  that  in  which  the  settler,  after  a  fcAv  years  of 
imremitting  toil  and  hardships  in  the  form  of  almost  impassable  tracks  for 
bringing  in  the  bare  necessaries  of  life,  severe  Winter  climate,  and  all  but 
complete  isolation  from  the  advantages  and  comforts  of  civilisation,  had 
got  some  portion  of  his  area  into  something  like  productive  condition,  but. 
owing  to  difficulty  of  transport  and  the  poor  and  often  unpayable  returns 
deriA'ed  from  sale  of  the  feAV  products  then  marketable.  Avas  faced  Avith  the 
cruel  outlook  of  barely  being  able  to  "make  both  ends  meet."  to  say  nothing 
of  providing  for  interest  on  the  money  borroAved.  and  sunk  for  the  time  being 
in  an  unprofitable  undertaking.  As  a  result  of  such  a  combination  of  adverse 
circumstances  it  Avas  not  to  be  Avondered  at  that  in  many  cases  the  settler, 
through  no  fault  of  his  OAvn.  Avould  have  to  abajulon  the  struggle  and  go  out 
of  his  holding  Avith  little  or  nothing:  so  far  as  this  world's  goods  are  con- 
cerned: but  infinitely  richer  in  all  that  goes  to  the  making  of  character, 
deA-eloped  in  thus  "braA-ely  battling  "gainst  fearful  odds."  All  honor  to 
those  who  thus  "fell  by  the  Avay'':  and.  although  it  sometimes  happened  in 
such  cases  that  in  one's  capacity  as  Banker,  stern  duty  compelled  treatment 
that  seerned  the  rcAcrse  of  kind,  the  Avriter  can  say.  at  any  rate,  he  has  known 
what  it  is  to  feel  acutely,  if  not  to  ahvays  express,  that  "sorroAv  in  another's 
trouble"  which  even  the  stony  heart  of  a  money-lender  can  be  moved  by  in 
such  circumstances  as  these.  But  dropping  sentiment,  and  resuming  the 
subject  of  financial  progress,  it  seems  to  the  Avriter  that  failure  Avas  A-ery 
frequently  due  to  the  fact  that  the  selector,  often  Avithout  anv  previous 
experience  on  the  land,  spent  most,  if  not  all  of  his  available  "capital  in 
attempting  to  clear  and  keep,  clean  the  greater  portion  of  his  holding,  instead 
of  concentrating  his  efforts  in  the  more  thorough  and  less  costly  improvement 
of  a  smaller  area.  To  such  unfortunates,  heavy  interest  pavments.  se(^)nd 
growth  of  scrub,  and  inability  to  ))rofitably  market  their  ])roduce.  iH-oved 
too  strong  a  combination  of  troubles,  and  ]ierforce  they  "went  under."  For 
such,  one  can  onlv  feel  intensely  sorry  that  an  unkind  fate  i^revented  them 


A    REVIEW. 


^►55 


'I'm;  i'KKi.i.MixAin   sci;.\'i(i(i\(;  <ii-   iiir:  sr kiwck. 


366  A    REVIEW 

from  holding  on  to  their  hind  until  the  dawn  of  better  times,  soon  afterwards 
ushered  in  by  the  establishment  of  Butter  Factories.  It  is  no  exaggeration 
to  say  of  the  South  Gippsland  hill  country  that  the  situation  was'  sayed, 
and  a  new  proyince  added  to  Victoria  by  the  cow,  ''the  lady  who  pays  the 
rent,"  tQ  whom  the  late  Sir  Thomas  Bent  used  to  say  "he  always  took  o&  his 
hat"' — and  well  he  might — for  no  one  knew  better  than  he  the  yalue  to  the 
State  of  this  important  industry. 

Land  yalues  then  rose  commensurately  with  the  increased  productive 
capacity  of  this  ideal  dairying  country;  and  the  settlers'  title-deeds,  at  which 
money-lenders  had  previously  looked  askance,  became  a  first-class  security, 
eagerly  sought  after  by  financial  institutions;  and  that  era  of  solid  and 
abiding  prosperity  set  in  from  Avhich  the  district  has  "neyer  looked  back." 

Of  course  the  improvement  of  roads,  the  development  of  the  coal 
industry,  followed  as  it  was  by  branch  lines  of  railway  and  formation  of 
new  townships,  all  were  important  factors  in  the  growth  of  the  district,  but 
beyond  all  doubt  its  financial  stability  became  permanently  assured  when  the 
Home-separator  and  the  refrigerator  made  dairying  a  profitable  industry. 

The  writer  concludes  this  brief  sketch  with  the  hope,  as  indeed  it  is  his 
firm  belief,  that  this  prosperity  may  be  lasting;  for  success  Avas  never  more 
deserved  than  by  "that  legion  never  listed"  of  brave  men,  and  women,  too, 
who  have  pioneered  and  conquered  this  country,  the  hardships  and  struggles 
incidental  to  which  can  only  be  appreciated  by  those  who,  as  he  did,  saw 
the  great  scrub  land  in  its  imdeveloped  state. 


Recollections   and    Experiences. 

MR.  A.  McLEAN. 


1  arrived  in  Gippsland  in  tiie  month  of  Septem- 
ber, 1886.  with  ni}'  brother-in-law,  (nivin  Pollock. 
On  arriving  at  GrantviJle  by  coach,  we  were  met  by 
Mr.  Biggar  and  one  of  his  .sons,  who  put  our  lug- 
gage on  pack-horses.     This  was  the  lirst  time  1  had 
ever  seen  a  pack  .-^addle.     ^^'e  started  for  Mr.  Big- 
gar's  place,  walking  after  the  pack-hor.ses  along  the 
bridle-track  up  to  our  knees  in  mud  at  times.    Dark- 
ness overtook  us'  before  we  reached  our  destination, 
,ind  all  we  could  do  was  to  foHow  the  sound  of  the 
li(.'r>e>   sjjlashing  through   the   uuul.     After   tra\el- 
ling  thi-ough  the  mud  for  several  hour>.  we  I'eached 
^Ir.   Biggar's   homestead  at   Woodk'igh.     Xext  day 
Mr.    Biggar  and   my   brother-in-hiw  started  out  to 
find   our   selections,   their   only    gui(k'    tjirough   the 
dense  scrub  and  undergrowth  being  sur\ey  lines,  a 
compa.ss.  and   a   plan.     After  some   vliilicidty,  they 
located  the  selections,  and  retui-ned  to  Mr.  Biggar's. 
Vfter    a  fcAv    days'    rest,    Mr.    liiggar    bi-oughl    us 
out  again,  and  we  pitched  our  tent  on  ^fi-.  V.  Kcnzow's  selection.      He  liail  got 
about   twent}'  acres  of  scrub  cut   and   hiniit.     There  being  no   road,  all   the 
travelling  had  to  be   done   along  survey-lines   and   bridle   trai'k>.   and   some- 
times tlij-ough  the  scrul).     My  brother-in-law  and  T  commenced  cutting  >rv\\h 
on  his  selection.  })aying  ]Mr.  Kenzow  so  much  |)ci-  day  to  show    us  how  (o  go 
about  it,  as  neither  of  us  had  any  idea  of  the  work.     We  cut  altoul  "20  acres 
between  us  and  got  a  buin.  after  winch  the  grass  seed  was  sown,     'i'lie  seed 
was  purchased   in  MelboKinc.   Ic.ouglit   to   I)i-ouin   by  rail,  and   carted   from 
there  to  the  Ked  Store  (Bena).  and  then  packed  froui  there,  the  distance  from 
rail  being  about  ■]()  miles.     The  second  year  we  cut  about  "iO  at-res  on  my  own 
sele<-tion.  and  while  cutting  thi-^  scrub    I  m<t   Messi-s.  Matheson.  I*ars'ons.  W. 
Rainbow  and  one  of  his  hiothers.  who  had  heaid  us  cutting  scrub,  and  came 
to  see  the   newcomers.     '^liiev   -howcd    us  all    they   knew   aboui    scrub-cutting, 
and    in\ite(|    us   o\ei-   to   >ee   them.      \\\-   had    no   serious   accidents  diii'ing  the 
scrub-cutting,  the   few   we  did   )ia\«'   being  coidined   to  a   cut    loot   and   a   cut 
toe.     The  first  stock   we  brougiu  to  (nppshir.d  consisted  <d  a   truck"  of  cattle 
and  a  horse  purchased   in   the  riunes  district,  and   trucked   to    Droiiin.     We 
cut  scrub  year  about  on  the  two  selections,  and  brought   cattle    iVom   Clunes 
as  we  got   gras's  for  them.      .My   brother-in-law  and   T    made  the   lirst    bridge 
over  the  Foster  Creek.     A^'e  felled  two  spars  about  twehc  inches  in  diameter 
across  the  stream,  jilacing  them  as  close  to  one  another  a>  we  could,  and  laid 
ferns  acro.ss  the  spars  as  decking.     TIumi.  smaller  spars 'were  laid  on  the  ends' 
of  the  ferns  to  keeji  them  in  i)lace.  and  a   light   hand  rail  was  placed  on  one 
side,  the  ends   resting   in    the    fork-   of  two   uprights  driven    into  the   banks. 
A  rough   wing  was  made  at   eaiji   en<l   nl'  the  liridge.  to  act    a-  a   guide  when 
driving  cattle  across  it.     Although  this  luidge  was  only  about  two  feet   wide, 
it  was  used   by  everybody   for   riding,   packing  and   driving  stock.     At    lirst 


368  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

we   would   dismount   and  lead  our    horses    across,    but    later    on,    becoming 
familiar  with  the  danger,  we  would  remain  in  tlie  saddle  while  crossing. 

In  the  year  1889  my  brother-in-law  was  killed  by  a  log  rolling  over  him. 
His  remains  were  tajcen  to  Clunes  for  interment.  We  had  to  carry  him  out 
along  the  bridle  track  to  Mr.  Linehan's  before  we  could  be  met  by  a 
conveyance  to  take  the  body  to  Drouin.  After  his  death,  I  came  back  to 
(jippsland.  and  worked  on  my  own  selection,  living  in  a  tent  for  four  years 
by  myself.  I  then  built  a  hut,  and  niy  wife  came  to  Gippsland.  The 
railway  line  being  open  no  further  than  Nyora,  she  had  to  ride  in  from  there. 
8oou  after,  we  st<irted"  dairying,  milking  ahout  12  cows  and  selling  the  butter 
to  men  working  in  the  district.  I  have  lived  on  the  selection  ever  since  my 
first  clearing,  and  done  clearing  at  diffierent  times,  until  now  there  are  only 
a  few  acres  of  scrub  left,  to  give  one  an  idea  of  what  the  scrub  was  like. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MISS  C.  ELMS. 

Over  twent}'  years  ago  I  Avent  to  keep  house  for  my  brother  who  had 
taken  up  a  selection  in  what  is  now  known  as  the  Moyarra  district,  and 
although  everything  was  very  primitive  and  rough,  and  at  times  very  lonely, 
I  think  I  spent  some  of  the  happiest  years  of  jny  life  there. 

Tt  was  Winter  time  when  I  first  Avent  there,  travelling  to  Droiiin  by  train 
and  then  by  coach  to  PooAvong,  and  that  coach  journey  will  always  remain 
like  a  nightmare  in  my  memory.  I  had  never  realised  what  bad  roads  could 
be  like  until  then.  It  took  six  or  seven  hours  t<)  travel  the  '20  miles,  ploughing 
through  deep  mud  and  lurching  in  and  out  of  holes,  making  one  thiidv  of  a 
rough  sea  voyage.  Once  a  branch  got  entangled  in  a  wheel  and  a  long  tlelay 
Avas  caused  by  sending  for  an  axe  to  chop  it  out.  We  slopped  at  the  half- 
Avay  ho'tel  for  some  time,  and  it  was  a  Aveary  Avait  in  the  little  ])arl<)ur  with 
nothing  to  look  at  but  some  queer  looking  pictures  tilted  at  a  remarkable 
angle.  It  was  quite  dark  before  Ave  got  to  PooAvong  and  I  was  \ery  glad 
to  see  my  brother,  Avho  had  come  to  meet  me  and  Avas  riding  along  the  road 
to  see  Avhy  the  coach  Avas  so  late. 

We  stayed  the  night  at  Pf)()Avong  and  next  morning  started  foi'  home. 
It  Avas  a  bright  frosty  morning,  and.  as  Ave  rode  along,  the  fi'ost  and  ice 
crackled  imder  the  horses*  hoofs.  Our  ])rogress  Avas  slow  on  account  of  the 
muddy  tracks  and  having  to  lead  a  heavily  laden  ])ack  horse,  and  it  must 
have  taken  fully  six  hours  to  go  the  fifteen  miles.  It  Avas  a  ride  full  of  new 
experiences  for  me.  There  Avere  deep  crabholes  to  steer  clear  of.  and  logs 
to  step  OA^er,  some  so  large  that  they  had  been  half-chopped  through  to  enable 
the  horse  to  get  OA-ei"  easily,  and  every  noAv  and  then  when  the  liorse  pulled 
its  hoof  out  of  the  mud  there  Avould  be  a,  noise  like  a  pi-tol  sb.ot  made  by  the 
suction. 

When  J  coidd  take  my  eyes  off  watching  the  ])rogress  of  my  steed  I  wiis 
charmed  by  the  beauty  of  the  surrounding  scrub  and  the  songs  of  the  birds, 
es])ecially  the  beautiful  cleai'  note  of  the  lyi'cbiid.  wliicli  1  li;i(|  nol  lirnrd 
before. 

Tlic  t  hr('('-i'o()in('(|  log  hut  that  my  br(»tliei'  had  built  looked  (|uile  pic- 
tures(jue  in  the  small  green  clearing  encircled  with  sci'ub.  and  when  1  look  b.'ick 
I  cannot  help  wondering  how  he  managed  to  mal<e  such  a  coml'orlable  little 
home  with  so  few  api)liances  and  very  little  assistance.  T\w  oidy  wood  he 
bought  \v;is  a  little  softwood  for  doors  and  table.  lie  s|)lit  shingles  for  the 
roof  and  \ ciiUKhili  nud  slabs  for  the  floor.  'J'he  house  was  lined  and  pa|)eivd 
and  looJved  \ciy  co^y  \\  illi  the  lai'gc  fireplace  built  of  stones  a?id  mud.  where 
huge  log  fii'es  burned  (luy  and   niglil    in   the  Winter. 

As  everything  had   to  be   packed   on   horseback  in  those  days  there  Avas 
not  a  ^iperfluity  of  furniture.     Everything  was  home-made  except  the  chairs,* 
which  Avere  brought  down  in  pieces,  and  then  glued  together,  but  the  uneven- 
ness  of  the  slaii  Hooi-s  often  made  the  leg^  come  loose  and   fall  off. 


;ro  RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES. 

The  only  moans  of  bakinjj  ^v:ls  in  a  camp  oven.  l)nt  everything  cooked 
in  it  was  excellent.  I  have  never  tasted  sweeter  l)read  or  scones.  It  Avas 
hot  work,  though,  lifting  the  oven  about  and  shovelling  the  liot  ashes  on  the 
lid  with  a  long  handled  shovel,  and  reminded  (me  of  a  stoker. 

Before  I  arrived  my  brother  had  not  troiilded  to  milk  a  cow,  and  of  course 
when  he  first  started  to  clear  the  scrub  there  was  no  grass  to  feed  one,  so 
his  fare  was  salt  meat,  bread,  rice,  treacle  and  tea  without  milk,  so  it  seemed 
quite  a  luxury  to  have  plenty  of  milk,  cream  and  butter.  My  first  butter  Avas 
chiu-ned  in  the  milk  bucket  with  a'  large  home-made  Avooden  spoon.  Later 
on  Ave  built  a  small  dairy  and  used  to  put  the  butter  into  casks  to  send  aAvay. 
for  at  that  time  butter  factories  and  separators  Avere  not  even  thought  of. 

We  did  not  possess  an  iron  tank,  and  all  the  Avater  had  to  be  drawn  up 
in  a  billy  or  bucket  out  of  a  waterhole  swarming  Avith  the  larvae  of 
mosquitoes.  The  billy  sometimes  slipped  out  of  our  hands  and  went  to  the 
bottom  and  had  to  be  fished  up  Avith  a  long  pole  Avith  a  hook  of  Avire  on  the 
end  of  it.  I  possessed  one  small  tub  and  one  flat  iron  for  laundry  purposes, 
and,  needless  to  say,  there  Avere  not  many  Avhite  shirts  or  collars  to  do  up. 
One  bachelor  said  he  did  his  ironing  Avith  a  pannikin  of  hot  Avater.  The 
worst  time  for  AA'ashing  Avas  AAdien  picking  up  Avas  in  progress.  Then  the 
clothes  were  hard  to  get  clean  and  the  men  came  from  their  Avork  looking 
more  like  black  than  Avhite  men,  oAving  to  handling  the  charred  and  blackened 
logs  which  they  stacked  together  to  burn.  It  Avas  quite  a  sight  to  see  them 
all  blazing  at  night,  and  the  usual  custom  Avas  to  go  round  last  thing  before 
going  to  bed  to  put  them  together  so  as  to  burn  out  completely. 

Our  only  timepiece  once  got  out  of  order  and  Ave  had  to  guess  the  time 
by  the  shadoAvs  of  the  verandah  posts  Avhen  it  Avas  sunny,  buf  on  dull  days 
Ave  had  no  idea  of  the  time  and  no  doubt  had  meals  at  very  unusual  hours; 
but  it  did  not  really  matter  at  Avhat  time  Ave  got  up  or  Avent  to  bed.  Some- 
times a  selector  Avho  had  not  been  off  his  place  ior  some  days  Avould  lose  count 
of  the  days  eAen,  and  find  he  had  been  A\orking  on  Sunday  Ijy  mistake  Avhen 
he  Avent  for  his  mail. 

We  soon  got  a  nice  garden  round  our  little  home,  and  found  that  floAvers 
and  A-egetables  greAv  most  luxuriantly.  Some  parsnips  measured  more  than 
2  feet  6  inches  to  the  end  of  the  root,  and  a  turnip  would  do  for  tAvo  or  three 
dinners.  I  used  to  admire  a  flower  called  fire-Aveed  Avhich,  like  many  other 
plants,  grew-  after  a  fire  had  snvept  through  the  scrub  and  germinated  the 
seeds.  I  transplanted  one  into  the  garden,  and  it  improAedso  much  Avith 
cultivation  that  it  Avas  quite  an  ornament,  and  CAeryone  admired  it.  although 
they  could  not  help  being  amused  to  see  it  groAv  "there.  Then  I  had  bodi 
ornamental  and  use  fid  creepers  on  the  Aerandah.  Supplejack  grew  at  one 
end  and  the  white  starry  floAver  looked  lovely  in  the  Spring,  and  Avhen  going 
to  seed  the  balls  of  silk  fluff  Avere  almost  as  "pretty.  At  the  other  end  of  the 
verandah  a  hop  vino  flourished  and  I  dried  the  hops  to  make  yeast. 

Before  the  scrub  Avas  cut  doAvn  Ave  Avere  so  sheltered  that  the  Avind  did 
not  seem  to  blow  as  it  does  noAv,  and  the  rain  Avas  of  a  more  drizzly,  foggy 
nature,  and  Avould  often  last  for  days.  Sometimes  avo  Avere  Aveatherboundfor 
nearly  a  Aveek,  and  the  house  seemed  like  an  island  in  a  sea  of  mud,  and  in  order 
to  get  about  with  comfort  we  had  Avooden  gangAvays  about  the  paths  and  to 
the  wood  stack. 

When  the  rain  Avas  so  persistent  the  men  had  to  give  up  outside  Avork 
and  pass  the  time  doing  carpentry  jobs,  reading,  playing  chess  or  playing 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  STl 

the  violin.  We  often  had  two  or  three  friends  stayinji  with  n?^  while  they 
looked  out  for  land  to  peg  out.  and  it  was  astonishing  the  numher  of  i)eople 
that  small  house  could  accoininodate.  Often  we  had  to  resort  to  making 
up  beds  on  the  floor. 

Sometimes  I  would  not  see  a  woman  for  weeks  when  1  was  too  bu.^y  to 
go  visiting,  for  my  time  was  fully  occupied  with  housework,  gardening, 
mending  and  reading.  AVe  were  fortunate  in  having  a  good  supply  of  hooks, 
as  several  selectors  combined  and  got  a  ])arcel  of  books  every  two  or  three 
months  and  exchanged  them  Avith  one  another.  Then  T  had  lii^tory  aud 
Shakes])eare  to  rc.-(yrt  to  when  the  other  ))ooks  were  read. 

A  favourite  instrument  of  many  of  the  neighl)ors  was  the  violin.  It 
was  easilv  carried  about  and  the  .solitude  was  favourable  for  practising. 
One  bachelor  Avas  the  hap])y  possessor  of  a  small  harmonium  which  had  bt-en 
packed  on  horseback.  AVhen  the  roads  were  good  enough  for  sledge  tralKc 
we  got  our  American  organ  sent  via  Inverloch,  and  then  had  many  i)k'a>ant 
mu.sical  evenings,  for  there  were  some  good  singers  among  ihe  young  men 
livina-  near  us.  and  they  would  come  to  practise  their  songs  when  they  were 
going  to  sing  at  the  cricket  c(mcerts  sometimes  held  at  I'oowong  and  Powh-tt. 
I  went  to  U\o  concerts  at  Powlett  and  played  their  accompaniments,  and 
when  galloping  acro.ss  the  plains  and  seeing  no  houses  or  life  except  an 
occasional  Avallaby,  would  have  been  surprised  to  have  had  a  glimpse  into 
the  future  and  see  large  towns  growing  up  ajul  thousands  of  miners  getting 
out  the  coal  from  seams  that  lay  unsuspected  beneath  our  feet.  We  usually 
had  a  concert  and  ball  at  the  Powlett  hotel  on  Friday  night,  and  a  cricket 
match  on  the  following  day.  when  the  ladies  of  the  district  provided  after- 
noon tea  nnder  some  very  fine  blackwood  trees  that  grew  on  the  cricket 
ground.  The  Jumbunna  cricketers  were  (|uite  famous,  and  were  u-ually 
victorious.  They  used  to  practise  often  on  a  Satur(hiy  afternoon  on  a  cricket 
pitch  at  our  place,  and  very  often  1  gave  them  afternoon  tea.  and  I  have  a 
remembrance  of  how  my  arm  ached  i)ouring  out  ten  for  mi  many  on  a  wmui 
afternoon  out  of  our  large  tin  teapot. 

Soon  after  I  came  to  dunibunna  we  took  over  the  Po>t OHicf  lioui 
McLeods".  who  had  it  Hrst.  and  that  of  course  brought  nioi-e  life  aboiil.  and 
thei-e  was  the  little  excitement  of  receiving  and  sending  oil  I  he  niail^  which 
came  twice  a  week  at  first,  then  three  tin)es.  and  gradually  grew  to  a  daily  mad. 
The  name  of  our  district  wa«  often  confused  with  Jumbunna  >\'e.->t.  and 
letters  were  fivtiuently  missent.  causing  delay,  so  the  residents  h:id  a  meeting 
and  decided  to  get  the  name  changed  to  Moyarra.  the  name  of  an  .\u>ti-alian 
chief,  and  afterwaids  .Innibnnna  West  was  changed  to  (Jli-nal\  ie.  'I'he  name 
Kongwak  i>  >\)v\\  on  the  early  nia|)s  as  Kongwah.  which  sounds  uunv  like 
a  nafiNc  name  The  (ir-t  lime  1  went  there  was  to  visit  two  friends  who  had 
just  taken  up  a  -election  and  were  living  in  a  lent  in  a  cleaiing  not  mnch 
lariier  than  a  large  room.  I  rode  and  my  brolhei'  walked  :ihead  lifting  up 
l»ra"iiches  and  clearing  obstacles  oil'  the  track  so  thai  ihe  horse  could  gel  along. 
It  was' so  very  steep  in  jjlaces  that  I  am  sure  the  track  nnist  have  gone  down 
the  vei-y  steep  gullv  in  what   used  to  be  .Mr.  .las.  liainbow's. 

When  the  Siimmi'r  cam<'  there  w;i>  more  |»lea>ni'e  going  about,  and  1 
u.^^ed  to  love  riding  alouL^  the  prettv  tracks  looking  like  beautiful  avenues 
wilh  llic  supplejacks"  lovely  b|(.->uni'  wicatbiii-  ami  br^looinng  the  trees,  iind 
when  tli<'  wattles  were  in  (lower  their  golden  blooms  looked  ld<e  a  i)alch  of 
sunlialil   amidst  the  darker  foliage. 


372 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 


(uMienilly  wliere  the  mud  was  deepest  the  tree  ferns  used  to  orow  most 
luxuriantly.  In  some  places  1  have  ridden  under  their  fronds  meeting 
overhead  across  the  track.  AYhere  noAV  are  streets  and  houses  in  Juml)upna. 
there  used  to  be  a  specially  fine  grove  of  tree  ferns  where  I  have  walked  when 
visiting  Mrs.  (xlew,  who  lived  in  a  brick  house  which  is  still  standing,  and 
was  built  of  briclvS  made  in  the  vicinity,  and  seemed  cjuite  a  mansion  at  that 
time. 

There  were  most  beautiful  mosses  in  the  scrul):  the  trunks  of  some  of  the 
tree  ferns  were  covered  with  one  kind  like  a  tiny  fern,  and  another  was  like 
a  miniature  palm  tree;  others  resembled  green  velvet  and  others  seaweed. 
The  fungi  were  of  all  colours  and  curious  shapes,  and  with  tlie  mosses  trans- 
formed an  old  decaying  log  into  (juite  a  thing  of  1)eauty. 

Those  who  have  not  seen  (lij^psland  in  the  early  days  cannot  possibly 
realise  what  it  was  like  and  how  it  had  to  be  cleared  inch  by  inch,  and  what 
hardshij^s  and  privations  the  early  settlers  have  endured.  AVhen  I  think 
of  the  density  of  the  scrub  it  is  a  wonder  to  me  that  the  pioneers  did  not 
often  get  lost.  I  have  only  heard  of  one  or  two  having  that  experience.  I 
suppose  they  carried  compasses  or  had  a  good  knowledge  of  locality,  which 
I  have  not.  unfortunately.  One  afternoon  1  tool^  a  friend  for  a  walk  in  the 
scrub  to  show  her  a  glorious  mass  of  tree  fern>  and  blackwoods  in  a  gully 
that  we  admired  very  much,  and  which  my  lu'other  tried  to  reserve  as  a  beauty 
spot,  but  the  ruthless  fires  swept  through  it  all  when  l)urning  other  scrub. 
AVhen  we  turned  to  come  back,  as  I  thought,  and  get  out  of  the  scrub,  we 
found,  to  our  dismay,  that  Ave  were  in  quite  a  strange  clearing.  It  was  a 
small  place  that  had  been  cleared  and  left  for  some  reason,  and  was  quite  in 
an  opposite  direction  to  which  T  intended  to  go.  Fortunately  I  had  heard  of 
this  place  and  we  were  able  to  find  our  way  home  after  a  long  Avalk. 

Another  time  my  brother  and  I  had  been  to  spend  the  evening  at  a 
neighbour's  a])out  half  a  mile  awav.  and  when  cominc:  back  throuofh  the  scrub 


I-KK.N; 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  .-{7:^ 

we  got  ott'  the  track  and  had  to  carefully  retrace  our  steps,  and  with  the  aid 
of  a  lantern  o-ot  on  the  right  track,  or  we  might  have  had  to  wander  about 
for  hours,  if  not  all  night.  A  ver}-  good  substitute  for  a  lantern,  which  was 
often  used,  was  a  candle  fixed  in  the  neck  of  a  bottle  with  the  bottom 
knocked  off. 

I  often  spent  long  days  quite  alone  when  my  brother  had  to  go  to 
Poowong  or  Inverloch,  om-  nearest  townships,  both  about  L")  miles  away,  or 
when  he  Avas  some  distance  away  scrubcutting.  which  was  dangerous  work, 
as  there  was  always  a  chance  of  the  axe  slipping  or  the  scrub  falling  the 
wrong  way;  but  on  the  whole  there  were  comparatively  few  accidents.  One 
day  he  cut  his  toe  and  came  home  Avith  his  boot  nearly  full  of  blood,  and  I 
had  to  bandage  it  as  well  as  I  could.  A  knowledge  of  first-aid  would  have 
been  very  useful  where  there  was  no  doctor  available.  Poowong  was  visited 
at  intervals  by  one  living  at  Berwick,  about  50  miles  distant. 

One  scrul)cutter  scAered  an  artery  in  his  leg.  and  fortunately  for  him  a 
selector,  who  had  some  knowledge  of  surgery,  tied  it  together  and  saved  him 
from  bleeding  to  death.  Then  he  was  carried  for  miles  on  a  stretcher  along 
the  rough  track  and  sent  on  to  the  hospital,  where  he  recovered. 

The  time  we  needed  a  doctor  most  was  when  my  father  was  visiting 
us,  and  while  watching  a  tree  being  cut  down  was  knocked  down  by  a  large 
branch,  which  swerved  and  fell  on  his  leg.  We  thought  it  must  be  i)roken, 
and  there  was  no  one  who  knew  how  to  set  a  limb.  However,  after  several 
weeks'  rest  he  was  able  to  ride  to  Poowong,  and  went  to  a  doctor  in  Melbourne, 
who  put  it  in  plaster,  l)ut  we  alway'^  had  a  doubt  whether  it  was  ne<'e>sary. 

I  have  heard  my  brother  talk  of  the  time  he  helped  to  cleai-  the  track 
over  McLeod's  hill  to  Inverloch,  and  hoAV  surprised  and  delighted  they  were 
when  tl;e  scrub  fell  and  they  got  a  glimpse  of  the  beautiful  \  icw  over  the 
plains  to  the  Inlet  and  Southern  Ocean.  Inverloch  was  quite  a  nourishing 
little  town  then,  as  so  many  got  their  stores  and  goods  round  l)y  boat  from 
Melbourne. 

Sometimes  a  ]iarty  of  eight  or  nine  of  us  used  to  go  for  two  <>r  three 
days  and  stav  at  Dixon's.  s]»cndin,ii  the  time  boating  and  lisiiinii.  The 
first  drive  T  bad  to  Tnverloch  was  in  \h\  Birney's  bn<.>;i>;y.  which  was  :i  dnublc- 
seated  one,  but  the  back  seat  was  missing,  and  Miss  Birney  and  1  sat  beliind 
on  l)Oxes.  and  held  on  to  i'0])es.  which  was  very  necessai-y,  1  can  assure  you, 
for  we  got  a  good  nianv  joll^  on  the  I'oiigli  unmade  li-acl<     -icro^  llic  plains. 

1  had  rather  an  un|)h'a>ant  liiU'  once  from  Invei'loch  through  KongwaU. 
when  there  was  only  a  nanow  track'.  It  got  so  dark  by  the  time  we  reached 
the  scrub  that  I  couM  not  m-c  the  rider  just  ahead,  win*  wouhl  call  out  every 
now  and  then  for  ine  to  hohl  my  iiead  down  to  avoid  a  blow  from  a  bianeh. 
and  a  billy  of  fi^h  lie(|  to  my  sachUe  got  battered  about  through  knocking  the 
trees'  and  stumi)s.  Several  times  I  have  had  sim|)ly  to  trust  to  the  sagacity 
of  my  hoi'se  to  find  the  way.  and  it   is  wf)n(N'rful  how  well  tl'V  couhl  (hi  it. 

One  (hirk  night  one,  of  my  brother^  \\a>  in  liie  scrub  with  hi>  doM-  ;ind 
got  (|uite  bewihU'red  whicii  way  to  go.  so  he  tied  his  handkerrhiel'  roinnl  llie 
dog's  neck  and  was  led  in  the  right  direction. 

All  tlie  women  in  the  district  got  to  l»e  expert  riders,  and  often  carried 
their  chihbcn  on  horseback.  One  of  our  neighbom-s  often  cam«'  to  see  us. 
brinsrinjr  lier  babv   in   thi^  fashion,  and   T  liave  seen  her  cantering  along  the 


S74  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

roiul  ami  openiiiir  _i>ate^  with  it  in  her  ariii^.       Soiuetinies  they  lode  ahmg  witli 
ail  uiiibreUa  up  wlien  it  wa>  raining. 

I'he  earliest  i-hurch  ;-ervices  were  held  at  ]Mr.  Elliott's  residence  by  a 
(Miiireh  of  PLiigland  Minister,  who  came  from  Poowong.  and  great  was  the 
cleanina"  up  of  l)0()ts  and  leggings.  Avhich  were,  more  often  than  not.  covered 
with  mild.  Our  riding  habits  sometimes  had  a  fringe  of  mud  a  foot  wide, 
and  I  wonder  now  that  we  Avore  them  so  long,  or  did  not  adoj/t  a  dilferent 
style.  The  minister  sometimes  failed  to  put  in  an  appearance,  and  then 
someone  read  the  service,  and  an  essay  perhai)s  in  place  of  the  sermon.  The 
singing  was  usually  verj'  good,  considering  there  was  no  musical  instrument, 
for  it  is  not  easy  to  start  at  the  right  pitch  and  not  get  too  high.  There  was 
irenerally  a  dearth  of  soprano  \oices.  After  the  service  very  often  afternoon 
tea  was  handed  round,  and  altogether  it  wa^  the  social  event  of  the  month. 

As  the  district  got  cleared  many  of  the  birds  and  animals  disappeared 
and  others  took  their  place.  At  first  when  the  scrul)  was  plentiful  we  had 
jay-;,  satin-birds,  etc..  around  the  door  looking  for  scraps  of  food,  and  occa- 
sionally we  would  see  one  of  the  lovely  blue  satin-birds.  ^Ve  had  one  in  a 
cage  for  a  Avhile.  and^  like  so  many  of  the  Australian  birds,  it  was  a  S]:)lendid 
mimic.  ScA'eral  times  we  tried  to  rear  young  lyre-birds  rescued  from  their 
nests  in  the  fallen  scrub,  but  never  with  any  success.  There  were  no  rosella 
parrots,  which  are  noAv  so  nnmerous,  only  the  beautiful  scarlet  lories.  Often 
we  were  awakened  l>y  a  native  bear  scratching  and  scrambling  on  the  roof^ 
and  bush  rats  ran  over  the  ceilings.  Sometimes  a  l)ear  would  sit  on  a 
verandah  post  all  day,  looking  at  us  with  its  queer  solemn  expression,  and 
then  go  off  at  night-time.  AVallabies  have  now  quite  disappeared  from  the 
district :  we  often  saw  or  heard  them  leaping  and  crashing  through  the  .scrub. 
T  remember  how  startled  I  Avas  one  night  by  hearing  a  dingo  howl.  It  is' 
one  of  the  weirdest  sound.s'  I  ever  heard.  They  came  up  from  the  plains, 
and  attacked  the  sheep  and  calves.  Fortunately  they  have  been  quite  exter- 
minated. Caterpillars  were  the  worst  of  the  insect  pests  when  the  gra.ss 
was  long  and  plentiful.  They  ^warmed  everywhere,  and  came  into  the 
hoii.ses.  We  found  them  in  the  food,  and  in  our  beds,  and  they 
even  ate  holes  in  a  green  tal)lecloth  we  had.  Scotch  thistles  us'ed  to  flourish, 
and  grew  to  a  great  height.  I  have  seen  some  as  tall  as  a  man  on  horseback, 
and  tracks  had  to  be  cut  through  them  to  allow  the  stock  to  get  about ;  but 
they  seem  to  have  died  out.  and  bracken  ferns  are  now  the  worst  things  the 
farmers  have  to  contend  with. 

As  time  went  on  a  weatherboard  house  was  built  in  another  part  of 
tlie  selection,  and  the  move  "From  log-cal>in  to  AVhite-house"  was'  easily 
accomplished  on  a  sledge.  The  mo.st  important  piece  of  furniture  was  the 
organ.  Soon  after,  the  rest  of  the  family  came  to  live  there,  and  it  took 
nearly  a  week  to  get  the  furniture,  etc..  brought  from  Beaconsfield.  about 
75  miles  away,  where  they  had  been  living. 

The  Great  Southern  Railway  was  begun  about  that  time,  and  was 
finished  to  Xyora.  and  passengers  could  get  as  far  as  Loch  by  the  contrac- 
tor's train.  Avhich  was  a  great  improvement  upon  going  to  Drouin :  but  the 
contractors'  burnt  wood  instead  of  coal,  and  sparks  flew  about,  so  that  many 
passengers  had  holes  burnt  in  their  clothes  and  hats.  A  .•^^park  even  burned 
a  hole  in  uiy  sister's  wedding  dress,  which  was  packed  in  a  box  and  sent  by 
train.  It  was  the  first  wedding  in  our  district:  Jumbunna  and  Outtrim  had 
not  .sprung  into  existence,  and  there  was  no  church,  .so  a  bower  of  ferns  and. 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  ;i75 

branches  was  erected  for  the  marriage  ceremony,  and  the  l)ri(!al  i):irtv  made 
a  pretty  picture,  standing  in  and  around  it.  Then  after  the  wedding 
1)reakfast.  which  was  heUl  in  the  house,  the  bride  and  bridegrooin  rode  away 
on  horseback  to  get  the  train  at  Loch  to  go  for  a  honeymoon  holithiy  liefore 
settling  down  in  their  home  at  Kongwak. 

The  day  before  the  wedding  one  of  our  neighbours  burnetl  his  M-rul).  anil 
the  wind  blew  the  fire  on  to  our  place,  and  we  were  doid)tful  whether  we 
would  be  able  to  save  the  house.  A  haystack  was  burnt,  and  the  old  log 
house  caught  fire  over  and  over  again,  and  was  only  saved  by  someone  sitting 
on  the  roof  with  a  bucket  of  water  to  put  out  the  flames.  The  road  Avas  im- 
jDassable,  for  the  trees  were  alight  and  falling  every  now  and  then,  anil  two 
of  the  school  children  were  not  able  to  get  home  that  night,  as  it  was  so 
dangerous.  AVe  were  preparing  for  the  Avedding.  and  anxiously  watching 
the  progTess  of  the  fire,  with  eyes  smarting  with  the  smok'e.  but  fortunately 
the  wind  changed,  and  l)lew  it  aAvay  from  us.  and  next  day  was  all  that  could 
be  desired. 

It  was  a  pretty  sight  at  night  after  a  burn  to  see  the  trees  all  alight,  and 
the  showers  and  fountains  of  sparks  riA'alled  any  fircAvorks  1  have  ever  seen. 

When  we  vacated  the  log  house,  it  was  in  use  for  some  yeans  after,  as  a 
State  s'chool,  and  church  services  and  lectures  were  hehl  there. 

The  first  schoolmaster  Avho  Avas  sent  (Ioaah  was  a  young  man  Avho  had 
not  long  come  from  Ireland,  and  so  had  never  had  any  experience  of  the  busli. 
He  arrived  at  our  place  nearly  exhausted  after  Avalking  from  liena  through 
mud  Avhich  Avas  very  deep,  as  it  Avas  Winter  time.  He  had  no  idea  of  the 
place  he  was  going  to,  or  Avliat  accommodation  there  was.  Vt'e  had  no  room 
to  spare,  but  did  Avhat  Ave  could  to  supply  him  Avith  utensils,  etc.,  to  batch 
for  himself  at  the  school,  and  our  place  was  so  close  that  it  Avas  like  a  home 
to  him.  The  school  was  not  veiy  large  at  first,  only  sevi'u  or  ciuht  pupils 
attending. 

One  day  several  of  u>  rode  up  to  see  how  the  railway  liiif  was  pi-ogress- 
ing.  Avhere  Koi'uuiburi'a  now  -tatids.  There  wei'e  several  tents  and  a  sloiv 
])uilt  of  coi'i'Ugated  iron,  and  Avt>  looked  down  a  long  avi'iuu'  of  scrub,  where 
a  clearing  had  Iteen  made  f'oi'  the  line. 

The  Jiimhunna  coal  mine  was  opened  about  that  time,  and  we  and  other 
ladies  took  over  afternoon  tea  for  those  who  came  from  .Mi'lhournc  to  the 
oj)ening  ceremonw  and  a  i)arty  of  us  were  taken  into  the  mine  in  trucks  as 
far  as  the  drive  was  made,  wliich  was  a  vi'ry  shoi-t  distance  compared  with 
the  miles  the\'  liavc  i^one  since  then. 


Recollections    and    Experiences. 

MR.  WM.  WATSON. 

Leaving  Ballarat  in  August,  IbST,  my  brother 
KoUert  and  I  journeyed  by  rail  to  ^lirboo  Xorth  for 
the  purpose  of  occupying  220  acres  of  land  in  the 
parish  of  Mardan,  which  had  been  selected  by  us. 
Then  we  set  out  Avith  our  swags'  on  our  backs  for 
INIr.  W.  Smith's  property,  ''Authoringa,"'  that  being 
the  nearest  clearing  to  the  land  we  Avere  to  settle  on. 
Arriving  there  we  were  hospitably  received  by  Mr. 
and  Mrs.  Smith,  as  were  all  who  came  that  way.  The 
(lay  following,  our  camp  outfit,  which  we  had  pur- 
chased at  Mirboo  Xorth,  arrived  on  pack-horses, 
and  our  next  duty  was  to  cut  a  track  to  our  selection, 
a  distance  of  about  four  miles.  This  accomplished, 
Ave  erected  our  camf),  carried  in  our  ])rovisions,  etc., 
and  made  ourselves  as  comfortal^le  as  circumstances 
Avould  permit.  Then  Ave  set  about  cutting  100  acres 
of  scrub,  and  ringing  the  larger  trees.  Xot  having 
much  experience  Avith  axes,  our  Avork  at  first  Avas  not 
of  a  Aery  high  order,  that  is,  from  an  axeman's 
point  of  vieAv.  I  Avill  never  forget  the  appearance  of  the  rings  round  those 
trees;  they  were  generally  a  foot  or  more  out  Avhen  Ave  came  round  to  the 
starting  point.  HoAvever,  the  end  Avas  accomplished,  the  trees  died,  and  the 
scrub  wa.s'  cut.  Many  Avere  the  hairbreadth  escapes  Avith  the  axe  Avhile  scrub- 
cutting:  I  haA'e  seen  a  gash  four  inches  long  on  a  boot  Avithout  cutting  the  sock, 
and.  on  the  other  hand,  I  have  seen  mr)re  than  one  toe  am]Mitated.  and  there 
were  also  many  fatal  accidents.  My  brother  and  I  formed  two  of  a  party 
of  twelve  who  carried  a  man  14  miles  to  give  him  a  decent  burial.  He  Avas  a 
stranger  to  us  all.  and  was  killed  by  a  blackwood  tree  splitting  up  and  coming 
down  on  him. 

Having  completed  the  scrub-cutting,  Ave  returned  to  Ballarat  for  a  month 
or  tAvo  aAvaiting  the  burning  season,  but  Avhile  absent,  the  s<n-ub  Avas  either 
fired  accidentally  or  otherAvise.  and  we  got  Avhat  Avould  be  called  in  tho.se  days 
a  miserable  burn.  This  was  a  serious  handicap,  the  picking  up  being  nmch 
heavier.  Avhile  the  undergi-oAvth.  such  as  sAvordgrass,  bracken,  etc..  came  up 
quickly. 

Having  soAvn  doAvn  the  100  acres,  it  Avas  not  long  l^efore  we  had  an 
abundance  of  grass,  and  Ave  purchased  a.  feAV  trucks  of  cattle  to  eat  it  off,  but 
they  had  no  effect  on  it.  so  abundant  was  the  growth.  We  then  borroAved 
all  the  cattle  Ave  could  mu.ster  for  miles,  and  one  of  the  ever-memorable  jobs 
Ave  undertook  Avas  to  remove  50  head  of  cattle  along  a  pack-track  for  6  miles, 
where  they  Avere  strung  out  in  single  file,  and  we  were  fortunate  enough  to 
deliA-er  the  lot.  Tavo  of  our  neighbours,  having  a  like  area  under  "grass, 
making  a  total  of  300  acres,  and  no  fences  erected,  the  additional  cattle  Avere 
quite  iriadequate  to  eat  the  grass  doAvn.  They.  hoAvever,  got  assistance  very 
<oon  in  the  shape  of  a  plague  of  caterpillars,  and  in  less  than  a  fortnio-ht  tliere 


RECOLLECTIONS  AND  EXPERIENCES.  .S77 

was  not  eiioiigli  grass  to  leed  a  goat.  Talking  of  caterpillars.  1  must  relate 
our  experience.  We  had  the  post-holes  smik  for  a  dividinir  fence.  These 
holes  were  two  feet  deep,  and  they  were  all  filled  with  caterpdlars.  Oh.  yes, 
there  were  caterpillars  here  in  1887. 

It  was  not  long  until  Ave  had  good  rains,  and  soon  had  plenty  of  feed 
onc€  more.  We  then  decided  to  start  dairying,  so.  getting  the  necessary  equip- 
ment ready,  we  commenced  operations.  The  following  season  we  were  milk- 
ing 85  cows,  setting  the  milk  in  dishes,  then  skim,  churn,  work  and  make  the 
butter  into  half  and  one-pound  pats  by  hand.  This  we  packed  to  ^Nlirboo 
Xorth  once  a  week,  a  distance  of  14  miles  througli  nuul  in  many  places  up 
to  the  knees  of  our  horses.  The  butter  was  then  consigned  to  a  Melbourne 
agent  for  sale,  and  I  am  pleased  to  say  at  times  topped  the  market,  bringing 
6d.  per  lb.  Beef  was  just  as  cheap  as  butter,  a  prime  fat  cow  being  worth 
about  £3  or  £4.  Those  were  anxious  times  for  the  pioneers';  no  one  then 
dreamed  that  the  progress  and  transformation  of  the  country  would  have 
been  so  rapid:  but  for  the  young  people  those  da\\s  were  happy  days,  and  I 
can-say  Ave  were  all  unich  younger  then.  I  can  Avell  remember  one  of  the  first 
young  ladies  to  arrive  in  this  district,  and  she  must  certainly  have  felt  souie- 
Avhat  proud,  for  I  have  seen  nine  horses  tied  to  tiie  fence  on  a  Sunday  after- 
noon, mine,  of  course,  being  one  of  them. 

It  is  pleasant  now,  Avith  mile  after  mile  of  beautiful  metalled  roads,  to 
let  the  mind  run  back  to  the  time  when  it  Avas  impossible  to  drive  any  wheeled 
vehicle  over  the  site  of  the  present  town.  EA'en  on  foot  the  settler  coidd  not 
move  through  the  tangle  of  scrub  Avithout  cutting  his  Avay  through  it  with  an 
axe.  His  vision  Avas  limited  to  tiny  patches  of  clearing,  laboriously  made  by 
axe  and  firestick.  This  town,  so  Avell  equipped  with  modern  home  comforts 
and  conveniences,  has  been  carved  out  of  the  foiTst  in  the  lifetime  of  a  >iiigle 
generation.  It  is  typical  of  the  i)ioneering  Avork  accomplished  throughout  the 
greater  part  of  (iii)|)sland.  The  strongest  had  to  Avork  in  alternate  mood-^  of 
hope  and  despair,  before  a  glinnner  of  ultimate  success  was  visible.  The 
marvel  is  that  in  face  of  such  difficulties  so  much  has  been  accomplished. 
Leongatha  and  its  surroundings  are  typical  examples  of  the  gi-it  and  enter- 
piise  which  characterise  Gippslanders.  NoAvhere  in  (he  State  is  found 
greater  courage  and  perseverance  in  the  character  of  the  ])eople,  l)oth  in  their 
privat-e  and  |:)ul)]ic  enterpi'i^e.  Development  has  necessarily  been  slower 
than  in  the  Xoith.  but  it  is  mai-kcd  by  less  restlessness  and  more  thoroughness. 
The  m(j]'al  fibi-e  of  the  community  has  been  strengtheru'd  by  the  diHiculties 
encomitered  in  establishing  hon)es  and  towns  and  industrial  enter|)ris('>  in  a 
virgin  forest.  Standing  on  the  ci-est  of  the  hill  which  Leongatha  ci-owns.  one 
can  see  for  miles  over  hill  and  valley,  clothed  in  verdant  beauty.  Thousands 
of  acres  are  as  free  of  stump  and  timber  as  a  bowling  green.  Workers  are 
engaged  in  all  kinds  of  ruial  industry.  What  a  triumph  (d"  pioneering  enter- 
piise  !  Pioneei-ing.  like  war.  has  its  triumphs  and  its  t  i-ibulat  ions.  It  is  our 
"baptism  of  fire"  which  sti-engthens  the  moial  fibre  of  national  chai-acler. 
makes  foi-  courage,  resourctd'nlncss.  and  patience,  under  dillicull  ics  in  those 
who  are  triumphant. 

In  the  pioneering  work'  connected  with  Leongatha  and  its  lieautiful  dis- 
trict, as  in  all  other  (iippsland  towns  and  districts,  Avoman  has  played  a  noble 
part.  Having  accompanied  her  husband  into  the  lonely  forest,  leaving  all 
the  comforts  associated  with  an  old  settled  district  behind  her,  she  has  shared 
cheerfidly  the  heat  and  burden  of  the  day  with  him,  and  in  more  than  one 
instance,  when  deprived  l»y  the  hand  of  death  of  him  she  loved,  has  carried 


37S  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

on  and  reareil  a  family.  Such  a?,  these  are  indeed  brave  women,  and  deserv- 
inir  of  all  the  comforts  the  present-day  can  bestow  on  them.  It  is'  pleasing 
to  note  that  a  few  of  the  very  first  ladies  to  arrive  in  this  district  are  still 
here,  enjoyinsi  the  fruits  of  their  enterprise,  notably  Mrs'.  Shingler  and  Mrs. 
Begg.  both  of  whom  have  long  since  passed  their  four-score  years,  and  are 
loved  by  all  wlio  know  them. 

Reverting  to  the  mode  of  locomotion  here  in  the  early  daj's.  I  sometimes 
wonder  how  the  man  Avho  drives  the  cart  at  a  store  here,  in  which  I  spent  a 
few  years,  would  feel  if  he  had  to  start  out  in  the  morning  with  8  or  10  pack- 
horses,  do  a  trip  of  about  20  miles,  get  two  or  three  of  them  down  in  the 
mud.  and  land  home  about  10  o'clock  at  night.  Xo  eight  hours,  no  wages 
board,  and,  may  I  say,  no  strikes.  The  work  had  to  be  done,  and  it  was  done 
cheerfully. 

In  conclusion.  I  would  like  to  make  reference  to  the  hospitality  that  was 
meted  out  to  all  new-comers  by  those  who  had  arrived  first :  their  homes  were 
practically  thrown  open,  and  everything  that  could  l>e  done  to  assist  was  done 
in  a  spirit  that  will  never  be  forgotten,  and  in  the  district  with  which  I  was 
closely  associated.  Mardan,  it  is  pleasing  to  note  that  the  same  spirit  of  hospi- 
tality still  exists. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  BEN.  BRETT. 

}.Iv  fatlier.  with  his  wife  and  family,  came  over 
from  Tasmania,  where  he  had  been  farming  and 
.grazing  for  a  nuiiiber  of  years.  He  rented  about 
2000  acres,  farming  a  portion,  growing  w'heat,  oats, 
l:)ariey,  and  potatoes,  and  grazing  merino  sheep.  The 
latter  did  remarkably  well  there.  My  father  was 
doing  very  well,  but  Victoria  was  booming,  and  he 
hoped  to  do  better  over  the  water.  Accordingly,  in 
AugiLst,  1863,  we  embarked  for  Victoria,  and,  land- 
ing in  Melbourne,  stayed  there  about  a  week. 

^ly  father  brought  with  him  five  horses,  two  w^ag- 
gons.  and  all  his  farming  implements  and  household 
furniture.  My  brother-in-law  (Mr.  P.  Le  Roux) 
had  purchased  the  pre-emptive  right  of  the  Red 
Bluff  run  on  the  eastern  shore  of  Wasternport.  It 
consisted  of  160  acres,  and  the  run  of  about  3000 
acres.  The  previous  owner  was  Messrs.  Bakewell, 
Meikle  and  Lyell.  We  started  from  Melbourne  with 
two  waggons  loaded  with  farm  implements,  bedding, 
and  wh.at  was  immediately  necessary  to  start  our 
home.     The  balance  of  our  goods  we  sent  round  by  boat  to  the  Red  Bluff. 

With  our  five  good  farm  horses  w'e  did  not  antici])ate  haA'ing  much  diffi- 
culty in  getting  to  our  destination,  only  51  miles,  but  we  soon  found  our  mis- 
take, as  many  a  Gip])slander  has'  done.  We  only  got  11  miles  the  first  day, 
camping  at  Mulgrave.  We  found  the  roads  very  bad.  Xext  day  Ave  got  be- 
tween Dandenong  and  Cranbourne.  The  former  was  a  nice  little  village,  but 
the  latter.  Avith  the  exception  of  two  fairly  good  hotels,  consisted  of  wattle 
and  daub  houses,  coA^ered  with  thatch. 

The  third  day  we  only  got  about  a  mile,  Avhen  the  incessant  rain  com- 
pelled us  to  look  for  shelter.  Mr.  J.  Adams  alloAved  us  to  camp  imder  a  straAV 
?tack.  We  rigged  our  tarpaulins  against  the  straw  stack,  and  Avere  glad  to 
camp  there  a  couple  of  days.  The  sixth  day  Ave  got  to  Tooradin  Bridge,  and 
camped  on  the  site  of  the  Tooradin  Hotel.. 

The  se\-enth  day  we  got  as  far  as  the  Yallock  station,  and  the  Aveather 
continuing  bad,  Ave  stayed  there  Iavo  days,  Mr.  Lyell  making  us  as  comfortable 
as  possible.  The  surveyed  road  Avas  so  bad  that  Mr.  Lyell  advised 
us  to  go  acro.ss  the  run,  and  sent  a  man  on  horseback  to  pilot  the 
way.  He  rode  ahead,  and  Avas  up  to  the  horse's  belly  in  AA-ater  nearly  all  the 
way,  we  ploughing  in  his  Avake  Avith  our  teams.  When  Ave  came  to  Adam's 
Creek,  he  crossed  two  or  three  times  before  he  could  find  a  place  shalloAv 
enough  for  us  to  safely  cross.  HoAA^ever,  AA^e  got  to  our  destination  at  the 
Red  Bluff  just  before  dark  on  the  tenth  day  from  Melbourne.  Such  Avas  the 
state  of  the  roads  in  the  earlv  days,  and  so  they  remained  for  many  vears 
afterwards.     EA-ery  rain   in  the  Strzelecki   Ranges  and   round    Avhat   is' uoav 


RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES.  381 

^Jindivick  and  Pakenham  brought  down  floods  of  water  that  poured  over  the 
roads  from  Tooradin  to  Lang  Lang,  and  Adam's  Creek  brought  its  tribute 
lower  down.  On  arrival  at  the  Blurt'  we  found  only  a  ramshackle  hut.  and 
had  immediately  to  start  building  a  wattle  and  daub  house.  The  house  com- 
pleted, we  started  on  exactly  the  same  lines  as  we  had  followed  in  Tasmania, 
and  this  led  to  our  initial  and  serious  mistake.  We  purchased  full-nioutlu-d 
merino  ewes.  The}'  had  done  so  Avell  with  us  in  Tasmania  that  we  never 
doubted  they  would  do  well  over  here,  but  the  country  was  quite  unsuited  to 
them.  The  dingoes  were  so  bad  that  we  had  to  tail  them  all  day,  and  camp 
them  round  the  house  at  night.  One  morning  soon  after  turning  them  out  we 
saw  the  dogs  amongst  them,  and  we  hurried  after  them,  but  the  dogs  had 
killed  and  maimed  about  30  sheep.  AVe  would  have  got  out  of  sheep,  but  that 
cattle  were  so  scarce  and  dear. 

There  was  a  gate  on  the  bridge  near  LyelFs  homestead;  all  the  coumry 
on  the  East  of  the  gate  was  proclaimed  free  from  pleuro-pneumonia,  aiul  no 
cattle  were  allowed  through  the  gate  without  a  special  permit.  In  those  days 
there  Avas  no  dairjing.  and  all  the  calves  were  reared  on  their  mothers,  and 
were  consequently  very  wild.  However,  my  father  decided  to  go  nito  dai ly- 
ing, and  purchased  some  heifers,  and  we  used  to  yard  them  to  gra(Uuilly 
quieten  them.  I  remember  one  chasing  McMillan's  stockman,  who  was  yard- 
ing them,  for  half  a  mile. 

We  used  to  ship  all  our  produce  by  boat  from  the  Ked  Bluli'  to  Melboiinie. 
The  first  craft  1  remember  Avas  "The  Wasp,"  Captain  Nicholl.  Tiiere  was  no 
jetty;  she  Avould  lie  ofl'  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  and  we  had  to  boat  the  cargo 
off.  On  the  return  journey  we  would  get  our  stores.  The  Captain  was  sale;5man, 
and  brought  the  proceeds  for  the  sale  of  grain  or  butter.  Such  a  thing  as  accounl 
sales  were  unknown;  we  had  to  accept  the  nett  cash  handed  us.  and  be  thank- 
ful. The  l)oat  generally  made  a  ti'ij)  once  a  month.  A\'e  wouhl  put  our  butter 
into  firkins  for  three  weeks,  and  the  fourth  week  make  it  up  into  1  lb.  pixts. 
Butter  was  very  cheap  in  those  days  tln-ough  the  Spring  right  up  to  Christ- 
mas, generally  from  iVl.  to  (Jd.  per  lb.  After  Christmas,  when  the  (Iry  weather 
set  in,  it  would  gradually  rise.  I  have  known  it  in  F'ebruai'V  or  March  jump 
up  (kl.  per  lb.  in  a  week  oi'  tAVo.  During  the  \\'inter  it  woidd  rang(>  from  lis. 
to  2s.  6d.  })er  lb.  After  some  years  Ave  connnenced  cartiug  oiu-  butter,  eggs, 
and  l)acon  to  the  Dantlen(Hig  mai'ket.  The  roads  were  still  very  bad;  the 
journey  always  took  three  stivuuous  days.  1  have  often  seen  swans  swiiu- 
ming  about  the  roads.  The  water  was  often  up  to  the  to|)  rail  of  the  fences 
from  'J'obiu  A'allock  to  Tooradin.  'ihen  Hudson  staited  a  f(»ur-horse  waggon 
from  Tooradin  to  Mellxmrne.  charging  Id.  |>er  ll».  for  cartage  on  butter.  Later 
on  he  came  as  f;u-  as  Lang  Lang,  and  would  send  a  collecting  carl  as  far  as  the 
Ked  P>lurt'.  A  lot  of  (he  new  selectors  would  cart  :in<l  |»ack  llieir  butter  from 
Woodleigh.  and  linally  came  the  "Ti-on  horse,"  which  made  a  ui;ilcrial  dill'ei-- 
ence  in  every  i-espect. 

Our  mail  was  a  tii-weekly  one  from  Ci'anbourne  to  the  oh!  Jiass.  .Vbout 
the  year  18<)0,  .McDonald  cut  a  tfack,  afterwards  known  as  McDonald's  Track, 
from  Tobin  Yalloek  to  Monvell.  The  object  vva.s  to  get  a  belle  r  route  for 
stock  from  Sale  to  Melbourne. 

Mr.  James  Scott  Avas  the  first  selectoi-  on  the  hills,  followed  by  Duiil(»|), 
l^ittlediko,  To\u,  Scotl.  and  oilier--.  W'c  knew  |ii-actically  iiolhinu  of  the  hill 
country. 

Some  cattle  wcic  tr;i\<'lle(|  by  the  coast  roiid  fiom  as  far  i)ack  as  "Marram, 
and  all  P)lacl<*s.  of  'I'arw  in.  FeehanV.  of  Powlelt.  TurnbulTs.  (d'  Kilciuida,  and 


382  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

KitKl  aiul  Aiulorsi»ii.  of  (Iriiiiths'  Point,  came  by  that  route.  The  stockmen 
had  to  canii)  tliein  on  the  roads,  watching  them  or  sleeping  with  one  eye  open. 
Later  on  they  got  acconnnodation  paddocks,  some  of  them  stopped  at  my 
phice:  finally  they  trucked  them  by  rail. 

Dandenong  was  a  good  general  market  for  stock,  and  all  kinds  of  dairy 
produce.  There,  too,  you  coidd  purchase  anything  you  required  in  the  way 
of  drapery  or  stores.  Cranbourne  was  a  cattle  market  onlj-.  I  have  known 
•2000  head  of  cattle  yarded  there,  but  its  glory  is  departed. 

At  the  Red  Bluff  was  one  of  the  latchen-middens  of  the  old  Westernport 
tribe  of  blacks,  containing  large  heaps  of  cockle  shells;  but  only  three  or  four 
of  the  blacks  remained  in  my  time.  They  had  a  mia-mia  at  Tooradin,  and 
used  to  come  as  far  as  the  Ked  Bluff.  They  used  to  shoot  ducks  and  catch  eels 
and  sell  them  to  buy  drink :  food  they  would  cadge.  They  had  a  novel  way  of 
cat<?hing  eels.  They  would  wade  in  the  mud  in  the  Tooradin  Creek  when  the 
tide  was  out,  feel  for  the  eel:<  with  their  hands,  seize  them,  and  bite  them  at  the 
back  of  the  head,  and  throw  them  on  to  the  bank.  They  were  so  plentiful 
that  they  could  get  a  couj^le  of  s'acks  in  a  short  time. 


Recollections   and   Experiences. 

MR.  JAMES   BAKER. 

A  Sketch  by  T.  .J.  Coverdale. 

The  subject  of  this  sketch,  though  not  a  pioneer  of  the  scrub  country, 
was  so  well  and  faAOurabh'  known  to  all  aa'Iio  passed  along  ^IcDonald's  Track 
that  any  account  of  earl}'  settlement  there  would  hardly  be  com])lete  without 
some  reference  to  him.  He  was  a  character  in  his  way,  with  a  touch  of  humour 
all  his  own,  and  always  good-natured  and  obliging.  Of  medium  height  and 
wiry,  and  Avith  a  bushy  black  beard  when  I  hrst  knew  him.  he  looked  a  typical 
"waybacker'';  and  there  was  not  much  of  the  old  country  about  hiiu.  except 
his  dialect,  which  was  rather  puzzling  on  tirst  ac(|uaintance.  1  leinember  he 
always  called  heifers  "hyphers." 

He  was  honest  as  the  day,  and  in  the  rough  times  of  Hfty  otld  years  ago 
round  Westernport.  Yannathan.  and  Lang  Lang.  Avhen  temptations  were 
many  and  not  always  successfully  resisted  l)y  some,  the  lure  of  "clear  skins"' 
failed  to  tempt  "Jimmy"  from  the  paths  of  virtue;  although  in  those  days 
it  was  saul  that  a  rough  bush  yard  and  a  branding  iron  of  the  right  design 
were  all  that  was  recjuired  to  lay  the  foundations  of  a  handsome  fortune;  and 
round  the  fire  at  night  he  often  told  some  good  tales  of  those  early  days,  which 
his  peculiar  dialect  and  way  of  telling  them  made  all  the  uiorc  iuteresting. 

Starting  in  the  country  with  no  other  assets  but  health  and  strength  and 
plenty  of  perseverance,  he  made  his  way  iji  the  worhl,  reared  a  hirge  family, 
and  passed  away  at  a  good  old  age.  respected  by  all  who  k'licw  hiui:  and  his 
success  in  life,  and  that  of  many  others  of  his  class  and  means  in  those  days, 
might  be  taken  as  an  object  lesson,  and  profitably  considered  in  these  days  of 
hiiid  sctlleiiient  with  sixionfed  iniinigninls.  There  weic  im  ( lovenniient 
agents  to  meet  them  at  the  boats,  and  find  them  billets  or  show  them  hind: 
they  had  to  paddle  their  own  canoes,  aiid  they  made  a  l»etter  joi)  of  it  than 
many  do  to-day,  though  wages  were  not  ne.irly  ;i--  good,  and  hind  wa>  iibnost 
as  dear,  as  now. 

In  the  following  (jnaint  and  amusing  aii(ol»iogra])hy.  |)iil)lished  by  per- 
mission of  his  son,  Mr.  II.  S.  liaker.  he  tell>  in  his  own  direct  and  charac- 
teristic style,  "the  short  and  sim|)le  annals"  of  his  life,  or  at  least  the  more 
salient  points,  the  events  that  impressed  him  most;  placing  them  in  order, 
like  milestones  along  a  road,  and  sticking  closely  to  the  |)ersonal.  as  all  good 
autobiogra]>hers  should.  He  is  not  beguiled  from  his  thenx'  to  dilate  on  the 
adventures  or  misdeeds  of  the  heroes  (or  .scoundrels)  of  the  bush  of  fifty 
years  ago.  as  many  with  his  knowledge  of  the  subject  m.igl)t  easily  ha\e  been. 
Unlike  many  hi.storians  of  their  own  careers,  who  most  ungallatitly  omit  all 
reference  to  the  partners  of  their  joys  and  sorrows,  thus  giving  us  no  end  of 
trouble  to  find  out  to  whom  they  were  married,  and  when,  or  whether  they 
were  mari'ied  at  all,  "Jimmy,"  with  a  considei-at ion  for  his  historian  that 
ecpials  his  gallanti-y  towards  the  sex,  gives  us  full  infoiMuation  on  these  mat- 
ters, and  also  on  otliei-  excnts  more  or  Ies>  consetjiient  thereto. 


384  RECOLLECTIONS     AND     EXPERIENCES. 

The  iullowing  is  copied  by  T.  J.  Ct»verdale  from  Baker's  own  account. — 

James  Baker,  the  son  of  James  and  Catherine  Baker,  of  Sutton  Benger, 
AA'ilt  shire. 

I  hail  no  edncation.  I  was  sent  out  in  the  fields  at  s'even  years  of  age  to 
keep  the  crows  otf  the  wheat,  and  then  to  mind  heifers  in  the  bye-roads,  and 
then  to  drive  liorses  in  the  plough,  and  then  to  milk  the  coaas:  and  then  I  went 
to  work  at  a  stone  quarry  for  tAvo  years:  and  then  I  AAent  to  live  with  a  gentle- 
man as  groom  at  Kenlou-laue  farm,  in  ^Middlesex,  near  Stanmore,  for  one  year 
and  ten  months,  and  then  I  came  to  live  at  Sutton  Benger  again  for  one  year, 
and  then  I  went  to  Chippensbury  hiring,  and  engaged  for  a  ploughman  to  one 
Mr.  .fohn  Slierluirne.  at  ''Cattages,"  near  Iraugton.  for  six  montlxs,  and  then 
I  went  to  Sherbrough  for  nine  months  as  ploughman  for  Mr.  Eichard  Hay- 
ward  in  Gloucester,  and  there  I  met  Miss  Dorcas  Stephens,  and  we  Avere 
married  on  the  6th  of  July.  1852,  at  Temple  Church.  Temple-street.  Briston, 
in  (xloucester.  England:  and  Avent  on  board  the  l:»ark  "Old  Earl  (xrey"  on  the 
24th  of  December,  1852,  and  landed  on  the  Gth  of  ^lay.  1853.  tAvo  days  after 
my  Avife  was  confined  of  a  son.  She  Avas  confined  on  the  -1th.  and  landed  on 
the  6th.  and  was  hired  on  the  8th  to  one  Mr.  Samuel  Griffiths,  near  Hobson's 
Bay.  for  three  months,  and  then  Ave  hired  to  go  to  Tobinyallock  station  at  the 
rate  of  £70  a  year.  AYe  stayed  seven  months.  I  then  left,  and  Avent  to  Mel- 
bourne and  hired  myself  to  one  G.  B.  Peed  for  a  farmer's  man  for 
£70  a  year.  I  stayed  six  months,  and  then  I  l)Ought  15  acres  of  land 
for  £10  per  acre.  I  had  two  years  to  pny  it  at  10  per  cent.,  and  I  paid  for  it 
and  got  the  deeds,  and  then  I  l)ought  five  working  ludlocks.  and  four  of  them 
died,  and  then  I  bought  four  more  bullocks  for  £42. 

Then  I  sent  home  to  England  for  my  father  and  mother  and  l)rother  and 
sister  and  nephcAv  and  niece,  and  tlien  sori'OAv  began.  Then  I  bought  57  acres 
of  land  in  the  parish  of  Lyndhurst  for  £5  an  acre  from  Mr.  Hugh  Glass.  I 
paid  for  it  in  two  years  and  three  months,  and  got  the  deeds  for  it.  I  stayed 
at  Cranbourne  for  14  or  15  years;  then,  on  the  13th  of  October.  1866.  I  selected 
69  acres  3  roods  and  29  perches  at  Lang  Lang.  1  stayed  at  Lang  Lang  7 
years,  then  I  sold  the  property  at  Cranbourne  and  Lyndhurst  and  all  m}^ 
cattle,  and  selected  160  acres  more  at  Lang  Lang.  I  then  started  storekeej^ing 
for  9  years,  but  sold  out  when  the  (xreat  vSouthern  raihvay  started,  and  have 
been  carrA'ing  on  dairying  ever  since.  But  in  the  year  18S7  1  wrote  to  the 
Government  sending  a  petition  asking  for  15  acres  of  land  for  a  cemeterj'^, 
Avhich  was  granted,  and  I  had  the  pleasure  of  digging  the  first  grave,  and  read 
the  first  burial  service,  and  did  so  for  tAventy  years.  Avhen  there  Avas  no  minister 
to  do  it. 


Pioneers  of  the  Danish  Settlement  at  East  Poowong. 

MR.  M.  C.  L.  HANSEN. 

Ill  the  ea,rly  seventie.s  much  was  written  in  the  papers  about  South  (iipp.s- 
hmd,  Avith  its  great  forest  of  giani  trees,  fertile  soil,  ample  rainfall,  and  sahi- 
brious  climate.  Roads  and  railways  Avere  as  yet  not  constructed.  'J'here  were 
perhaps  what  might  be  termed  roads,  such  as  from  Sale  to  Daiuleiiong.  Sale 
to  Alberton,  and  also  to  liairnsdale.  Orbost.  and  Omeo. 

Besides  these,  there  were  a  few  dray  tracks  of  a  ])ioneering  naliui'.  .such  as 
from  Westernport  to  Morwell,  now  known  as  Mcl^onald's  Track,  and  from 
Morwell  to  Stockyard  Creek,  the  latter  place  being  now  known  as  Foster,  and 
at  rare  intervals  an  occasional  adventurous  pioneei-  might  be  found  who  had 
dared  to  face  the  primeval  forest  and  carve  out  a  patch  of  clearing.  For  the 
most  part,  the  work  was  done  in  the  mo.st  primitive  manner,  and  all  else 
around  was  a  wilderness  of  tall  trees  and  impenetrable  jungle,  oi-  what  was 
later  on  called  scrub.  Many  of  the  prosj^ective  settlers,  u[)<>ji  seeing  the 
innnense  timber,  came  to  the  conclusion  that  soil  capable  of  protlucing  such  a 
wealth  of  forest  must  necessarily  be  of  good  quality;  others  again  feared  to 
embark  on  such  a  stupendous  undei'taking.  Many  who  came  to  (Jippsland 
during  the  years  1870  to  1S<S0  spent  their  little  all  upon  tlieii'  holdings,  and 
graduall}'  becoming  disheartened  and  despairing  of  any  better  prosi)ects,  left, 
ruined,  for  the  time  being.  Man}'  came  aiul  insi)ected  the  country,  and  re- 
turned to  their  homes  without  even  lodging  an  a|)plication,  so  obsesseil  were 
they  with  the  probalde  hai'dships  and  difficulties  that  would  ha\-e  to  be  faced 
by  the  pi(;neer>  of  South  (iippsland.  Others  again  \\  ho  came  mid  x'ltU'd  on 
the  land,  struggled  and  worked  on  until  by  stern  perseverance  and  dogged 
j)ei-sistency  tluy  have  at  last,  and  not  more  than  they  deserved,  gained  a  c(nu- 
petency. 

Farly  in  the  year  LsK),  Messrs.  .].  II.  Schmidt  and  ('.  .Mollei'  took  train 
at  Chewton  liailway  Station  for  Melbourne;  arriscd  there  they  ])ui'chased  a 
saddle  hoi-se.  ami  strai>ping  on  him  their  blankets  and  a  lew  wnvside  neces- 
saries, started  upon  a  journey  in  seai'ch-oi'  land,  and  by  th»'  wclbknown 
method  of  '"ride  and  tie"  these  two  South  (iipi)slaiid  |)i(iiiccr-~  coNcrcd  nn  iiu 
mense  amount  of  ti'a\<'l.  First  they  joiirney<'d  towai'd-  Lilydnlc  ihciicc  back 
nearl\'  to  Dandenong.  and  from  thcic  lowai'ds  Sale,  then  to  Allicrlon  ;ind 
Stockvard  C'reek.  and  finally  I'etiirned  to  whci'c  the  Sale  to  Dandenong  line 
was  in  course  of  construction,  and  from  there  back  to  ("hew  Ion  withoni  hav- 
ing made  choice  of  a  .selection,  'i'hey  made  still  another  journey,  but  with 
the  same  unsatisfactory  result.  Some  lime  afterwards  Messrs.  II.  SiMben 
and  C.  Mollcr  made  another  attempt,  taking  (|uile  anothei'  route.  Starling  from 
Melbourne  the\  took  coiicli  to  ( "ranbourne.  thence  to  Tobin  ^  alloclv.  l»etter 
Icnown  now  ;i>  Liiiig  Lang,  and  from  there  o\cr  what  i-  known  ;i>  the  Tinpot 
Hill  to  Poowong.  The  whole  of  this  counhyside  was  then  known  as  Poo- 
wong. A  -ettier.  Ilodgkinson  by  name.  I  i>elieve.  showed  ihcm  oxer  the 
country,  and  eventually  they  i)egged  out  a  s"leclion.  'I'he  fee  paid  for  show- 
ing  over  the  land  was  t;")  5s.,  and  .Mr.  Moller  has  often  rcliile<l  that  a  sWiimp 
existed,  upon  the  land  which  he  pegged,  but  he  has  never  since  been  able  to 
locate  it.       After  having  pegged  out  theii-  ic.sjjective  blocks,  they  ivl  in-netl  to 


386  PIONEERS    OF    THE    DANISH    SETTLEMENT. 

Melbourne,  and  lodged  their  applications  with  the  Lands  Department.  They 
were  shortly  afterAvards  notified  that  at  a  sitting  of  the  Lands  Board  in  Mel- 
bourne, their  applications  Avould  be  considered  and  dealt  with.  They  there- 
fore api)eared.  and  the  land  was  recommended  to  them.  They  were  granted 
an  occtipation  licence  for  three  years,  2s.  per  acre  per  annum  to  be  paid,  and 
improvements  to  be  effected  in  three  years  to  the  amomit  of  one  pound  per 
acre.  After  complying  with  these  coiiditions  and  residing  on  the  land  for 
the  three  years,,  they  were  entitled  to  a  lease  under  which  they  were  to  pay 
the  balance  due  to  the  Government,  viz.,  14s.  per  acre,  payable  in  14  half- 
yearly  instalments,  after  which  a  freehold  title  Avould  be  granted.  These 
were  the  conditions  under  which  land  was  then  granted  or  selected.  Not  long 
after,  these  terms  were  considerably  liberalised,  and  altogether  made  much 
easier.  Mr.  Staben,  who  had  been  farming  in  the  Colbinabbin  district,  sold 
out  there. 

Mr.  J.  H.  Schmidt  (Mr.  Moller's  brother-in-law)  and  Mr.  Jonsten  Ander- 
son also  selected  land  adjoining  Messrs.  Moller  and  Staben,  followed  shortly 
afterwards  by  Messrs.  Byriell  Bros.,  Mrs.  Linnett,  arid  Messrs.  Olsen  and 
Fisher.  The  latter  cut  a  strip  of  scrub  about  three  chains  wide  right  across' 
his  selection,  and  then  abandoned  it.  About  this  time  also  Mr.  P.  C.  Peter- 
sen, of  Adelaide,  selected  a  block  to  the  East  of  Messrs.  Schmidt  and  Moller. 
Some  idea  of  the  difficulties  of  transport  in  those  days  might  be  gained  from 
the  experience  of  Messrs.  Byriell,  Olseu.  Petersen,  Schmidt  and  Moller. 
In  Jime,  1877,  they  travelled  by  train  from  Chewton  to  Melbourne.  There 
they  purchased  tents,  tools  and  provisions,  hired  two  drays  with  drivers,  who 
were  to  convey  them  to  Poowong  East  or  Cruickston,  as  it  Avas  then  called, 
and  they  undertook  to  travel  a  stated  number  of  miles  per  diem.  On  the  3rd 
or  4th  day  from  Melbourne  they  got  bogged  near  Tooradin.  and  the  drivers 
refused  to  proceed  further,  owing  to  the  bad  state  of  the  road.  After  a  delay 
of  three  days,  the  pioneers  succeeded  in  obtaining  a  bullock  team  and  Avaggon, 
and  made  another  start  for  the  pi-omised  land,  and  it  Avas  still  a  very  sIoav 
process.  One  night,  Avhile  they  Avere  camped  at  Tinpot  Hill,  it  rained  and 
bleAv  so  incessantly  that  it  Avas  impossible  for  them  to  erect  the  tents,  so  thcA' 
were  forced  to  spend  the  Avhole  night  around  the  camp  fire  in  the  lee  of  the 
AA'aggon.  and  some  scrubby  timber.  Xext  morning  found  them  cold.  Avet  and 
stitf.  but  as  there  could  be  nothing  gained  by  furthei-  Avaiting  they  pressed  on, 
thus  day  by  day  getting  nearer,  if  oidy  a  little,  to  the  spot  upon  Avhich  they 
hoped  to  build  a  home.  Eventually  they  arrived  at  Cruickston.  having  done 
the  68  miles  from  Melbourne  in  fourteen  days,  or  at  the  rate  of  under  5  miles 
per  day,  including  stoppages. 

The  first  business  w^as  to  locate  the  ncAv  selections,  then  to  find  the  best 
route  to  make  a  track  in,  and  afterAvards  to  cut  the  track. 

Finding  one's  land  Avas  not  ahvays  an  easy  matter,  as  it  may  mean  miles 
and  miles  of  trudging  along  surA'ey  linesi^  and  perhaps  Avithout  a  map  or  plan 
of  any  kind  as  guide,  ^nd  as  the  holdings  Avei'e  mostly  surveyed  in  uniform 
sizes,  these  survey  lines  Avere  made  Avithout  respect  to  the  lay  of  the  country, 
and  Avere  up  hill  and  down  dale.  There  Avould.  therefore,  be  a  considerable 
amount  of  lost  time  before  the  early  settler  could  get  doAvn  to  the  actual  work 
of  scrub  cutting,  Avhich,  of  course.  AvaS  the  most  imi>ortant  work  in  the 
primary   stages. 

Cutting  a  pack  track  was  usually  the  first  consideration,  and  as  a  rule 
there  was  not  much  time  wasted  in  the  operation:  so  long  as  the  horse  could 
scramble  along  betAveen  the  trees  and  blunder  over  logs  it  Avas  all  right,  but 
often  enough  the  contents  of  the  pack  suffered. 


PIONEERS    OF    THE     DANISH     SETTLEMENT.  :iS7 

It  SO  happened  that  the  tiist  season  was  a  particnhu-Iy  dry  one:  in  lart. 
creeks  that  were  dry  that  vear  have  never  since  been  (h\v.  This  fact  made 
the  burning  of  the  scrub  nuich  easier  than  it  was  for  many' subsequent  seasous. 
After  the  "burn"  the  grass  was  sown  upon  the  ashen  surface  of  tlie  trromul, 
and  this  done,  they  buik  their  first  huts,  and  returned  to  the  C'astlemaine  dis- 
trict to  purchase  cows  and  draught  horses.  ^fr.  Staben.  however,  broiiirlit 
some  of  his  own  stock  from  Colbinal)bin.  and  made  the  journey  from  there  to 
Poowong  East  in  a  (ierman  waggon,  the  first  of  its  kind  tlmt  has  been  im- 
ported. 

Most  of  the  early  settlers  were  new  to  the  work  of  scnil)-cultiiig.  :ind 
many  and  various  were  the  methods  adopted.  Some  woidd  ciu  down  one  tree 
at  a  time,  and  contrive  if  possible  tiiat  each  should  not  fall  across  any  log  or 
stump,  but  endeavour  to  get  each  tree  to  lie  close  to  the  sin-face  of  the  ground. 
Some  were  very  careful  to  see  that  no  bark  was  left  attached  to  the  stnmp.  I<'^t 
the  tree  remain  green,  and  scj  retard  the  fire;  others  have  even  cut  uj)  the  fallen 
trees,  and  laid  them  alongside  the  old  logs  to  ensure  them  1  turning.  The  vari- 
ous methods  were  criticised  and  discussed  when  the  s«>ttlers  met.  and  the 
various  pros  and  cons  marshalled  forth,  but  the  most  poi)ular  method  was  that 
generally  known  as  "nicking."  A  large  ninnber  of  trees  would  be  cut  only 
partially  through  either  front  and  back,  oi-  at  the  back  only,  ilicn  a  largo 
tree  at  the  rear  Avould  be  carefully  felled  so  as  to  take  the  lot  down  nt  ontc. 
thus  saving  a  lot  of  chopi)ing.  Thi>  became  l)v  far  the  most  popidar  uiclhod 
of  scrul)  cutting. 

About  the  year  1577.  a  man  with  a  gro\\ii-u]»  family  from  Wan-- 
nambool  came  to  this  district  in  search  of  land  for  potato  growing,  an<l 
they  pegged  out  some  1500  acres  of  scrub  laiul.  |)aid  the  survey  fees,  and  it 
Avas  duly  reconnnended  to  them.  Some  time  afterwards  tliev  made  a  closei- 
inspection  of  their  })roperty.  and  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  hills  were  loo 
steep  for  their  purjjosc.  This  and  the  fact  that  there  was  no  prosjject  of  a 
road  being  constructed  within  reach  of  their  propei-ty  induci'd  them  to 
abandon  tlu-  ])r(»jecl.  and  tli'V  iic\er  retui-ned  t<t  (he  district.  .Mi',  and 
Mrs.  Martin  .Johnson  landed  in  Melbourne  from  New  Zealand  iti  I  ^7s.  having 
heard  much  about  the  Danisli  Settlement  at  Poowong  Kast.  lie  \  isitetl  the 
I^ands  Department,  and  procured  ma|)s  of  the  locality.  Me  hail  liet'u  used  to 
New  Zealand  methods,  whei'c  they  always  >ur\eyed  and  made  practical  loads 
befoi-e  tlie  land  was  thrown  open  foi-  selection,  hence  when  he  inspected  tin' 
^'ictorian  map  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  the  land  along  >Icl)onald"s 
Track  was  hilly  on  account  of  its  not  showing  a  straight  survey,  hut.  a>  all 
the  other  roads  shown  upon  the  map  were  straight,  and  theridore  presumaMy 
level,  he  came  to  the  conclusion  that  most  of  th(>  land  abutting  on  these  roads 
would  be  level,  or  nearly  so.  Having  purchased  a  horse  and  spring-cari.  he 
-started  off  with  his  wife  and  infant  and  all  their  worldly  belongings  for  the 
land  of  (ictslien.  roow(»ng  IOa>t,  intending,  jni'  a  -tail  at  any  ivite.  to  seek 
work  at  his  trade  as  a  carpenter,  .\rri\ing  at  wheic  Nyora  now  is.  he 
secinvd  employment  from  a  selector  named  Mr.  Kerr.  While  wiuking  hei'e 
he  ])aid  a  visit  to  the  Danish  Settlement,  and  finding  the  land  there  more  to 
liis  likiniT.  he  left  Ny<M-a  and  removed  t(»  the  Settlement.  (in<ling  plenty  cd'  em- 
ploviiicnt    ill   hiiildiiiLi  the  tii-t   Ik-m-.-  in   that   nei.ubbc.in-lnH.d. 

TImi-'-  was  also  anmn.u  the  early  c<.niers  to  the  Danish  Settlement 
a  -Mr.  lOdberg,  who.  while  lellinn  >rni])  on  bis  own  seleeti'ai.  niet 
with  an  accident,  the  re^dl  of  which  causeci  his  deal)).  His  widow 
beint:    unable    to    cari'V  <.n    the    huid.    it    again    became    available    f-"'    -•l''<'- 


3S8  PIONEERS    OF    THE     DANISH     SETTLEMENT. 

tioii.  Mr.  .Iohn.<en  sent  in  an  ajjplication  for  this  allotiaent,  and  it 
was  ultiuiiitelv  rec-t.niiniiKU'd  to  him.  There  also  arrived  in  Poowong 
East  at  about  tlii?  time  a  handy  Norwegian  sailor,  Mr.  Peter  Ander- 
son, lie  at  once  secured  a  contract  for  picking  up  from  Mr.  Johnsen 
Anilerson.  and  beins:  well  suited  for  this  class  of  work,  he  applied  himself 
with  energy  and  i^ersevei-ance.  completing  the  work  in  record  time.  Very 
soon  lie  caiight  the  land  fever,  and.  after  obtaining  land  like  many  another 
pioneer,  concluded  it  would  be  a  good  in(ne  to  take  a  partner  into  the  busi- 
ness, and  very  soon  afterwards  was  married  to  Mrs.  Linnett.  This  was  the 
pioneer  wedding  of  the  Danish  Settlement,  and  it  was  celebrated  about  Xmas 
time  in  1880.  Mrs.  Linnett  at  this  time  OAvned  320  acres  of  land,  and  Mr. 
Anderson  a  similar  area.  Mr.  Jon.s'en  Anderson,  whose  holding  was  to  the 
south  of  Mrs.  Anderson,  passed  away  to  the  great  beyond  in  September.  1881, 
and  his  property  passed  into  the  hands  of  Mr.  and.  Mrs.  Peter  Ancler.son: 
these  three  holdings  in  one.  now  v.ell  known  as  the  "Waterfall  Estate.'*"  Mr. 
Johu-en  Anderson  toiled  very  hard  and  cleared  a  portion  of  land  close  to 
the  creek  of  all  timber,  erected  a  house,  and  planted  an  orchard,  as  well  as  a 
vegetable  and  flower  garden.  It  was  while  clearing  this  land  that  a  neigh- 
bour visited  Andersonand  his  helpers,  and  upon  being  asked  hoAv  they  fared, 
Anderson,  who  was  ready-witted,  replied,  ''Oh  I  we  are  doing  all  right:  we've 
been  burning  otf  logs  for  about  a  month,  and  we  are  in  hopes  of  soon  finding 
the  surface  of  the  earth." 

However,  he  was  not  destined  to  remain  here  long:  he  ailed  for  some  time, 
and  eventually  passed  away,  as  previously  s'tated. 

Mrs.  P.  C.  Peterson  was  the  first  lady  to  settle  in  these  parts,  and  she 
arrived  in  March.  1878,  foUoAved  closely  by  the  ^loller.  Schmidt  and  Staben 
families,  and  Mrs.  Linnet.  The  Olsen  family  settled  in  June.  1879.  and  the 
Byriells  a  fcAv  months  later.  The  question  of  a  school  was  now  a  new 
problem  that  presented  itself.  The  settlers  called  a  meeting,  and  ^Ir.  Byriell 
was  appointed  a  deputation  to  interview  the  Hon.  the  Minister  for  Education. 
Mr.  Byriell  olfered  the  use  of  a  small  building  (which  he  had  replaced  by  a 
more  commodious  one  for  his  oAvn  use)  to  the  department,  on  condition  that 
they  supplied  the  furniture  and  appointed  a  teacher.  The  olier  was'  accepted, 
and  this  building  served  the  purpose  of  a  school  for  3  or  4  years.  In  April, 
18S0.  the  first  teacher  arrived,  and  the  number  of  children  attending  was 
aV)out  30.  The  attendance  was  not  perhaps  as  regular  as  in  more  closely 
settled  districts,  and  little  wonder,  as  some  of  the  children  had  to  walk  four 
or  five  miles  along  tracks  that  in  wet  weather  could  be  more  easily  imagined 
than  described.  Some  of  these  tracks  were  made  solely  for  the  use  of  the 
children,  and  in  such  cases  just  the  undergrowth  would  be  cleared  to  make  a 
track,  and  gaps  cut  into  the  top  of  the  larger  logs  to  enable  the  children  to 
climb  over  them.  During  the  Avinter  of  1882.  the  Education  Department 
erected  a  new  school  upon  an  acre  of  land  presented  by  Mr.  Byriell.  and  it 
stood  until  destroyed  by  the  disastrous  bush  fires  on  "the  1st  of  Eebruary, 
1898.  This  building  was  used  for  many  years  for  religious  services  by  no 
less  than  four  denominations,  viz.,  Lutherans,  jSIethodist,  Presbyterian,  and 
Church  of  England,  also  for  public  meetings,  debating  societies,  social  func- 
tions, and  as  a  polling  booth. 

The  question  of  roads  Avas  ever  present,  and  all  important.  During 
the  summer  of  1879,  an  agitation  was  started  to  open  up  a  road  to  Drouin, 
Nearly  all  the  settlers  turned  up  at  a  Avorking-bee  to  find  and  clear  a  suitable 


FIOXEERS    OF    THE     DANISH     SETTLEMENT.  389 

roiul,  and  as  there  were  several  creeks  to  be  bridged,  the  same  means  were 
adopted.  XeetUess  to  say.  these  bridges  were  neither  substantial  nor  oina- 
mental.  but  they  were  perhaps  as  good  as  any  that  might  be  formed  in  any 
newly-settled  country  of  a  similar  nature.  Drouin  now  being  the  nearest 
railway  station,  provisions  of  all  kinds  were  packed  or  cai'ted  from  that  town. 
Occasionally,  the  settlers  would  depute  one  of  their  number  to  go  to  Mel- 
bourne, and  buy  necessaries  at  wholesale  rates,  and  hire  a  carrier  to  cart  them 
from  Drouin  to  Poowong  East.  This',  it  will  be  observed^  was  a  co-operative 
movement,  .-nid  the  pity  is  that  the  same  sj)irit  did  not  operate  in  the  years 
that  followed.  The  princi])le  was  a  good  one,  and  it  enaljled  the  settlers  to 
buy  at  a  rate  that  no  individual  could,  if  he  jnircha-sed  only  for  tho  needs  of 
his  oAvn  household. 

Postal  facilities  were  at  first  particularly  crude  and  uiuciiaiii.  The 
mail  came  via  Cranbourne  and  Lang  Lang,  and  fiom  there  by  chance  to 
Poowong  and  Poowong  East.  By  agitation  a  regular  mail  service  from 
Lang  Lang  to  Poowong  and  thence  to  Cruickston  was  secured,  and  when 
vehicular  connnunication  l.ietween  Poowong  and  Drouin  was  established,  tlu' 
mail  was  changed  to  that  route.  The  settlers  took  it  in  turns  to  go  to  the 
Poowong  P.O.  for  the  Danish  Settlement  mails.  Many  of  the  oldest  settlers 
of  the  Poowong  P^ast  District  have  passed  over  the  great  divide:  thus  ^Ir. 
•1.  11.  Schmidt  died  in  May.  1<S88.  leaving  behind  a  ynung  family  tn  iinMii-n 
their  loss  and  to  do  for  thems"lves. 

Mr.  C  Moller.  Senr..  died  in  .lune.  iSi'T.  after  Inning  seen  llie  l>nlk  ol'  the 
heaviest  clearing  done  upon  his  selection,  a  sturdy  man  stamling  o\er  six  feet, 
strong  in  ]>r(ijjortion.  a  very  williiiL!.  worker  and  of  a  cheerrul  disposititm.  His 
family,  two  sons,  one  of  whom  is  now  a  councillor  in  the  Poowong  and  .leetho 
Shire,  and  three  daughtei-s  were  all  of  an  age  at  which  they  w(>re  able  to 
care  for  themselves. 

Mr.  H.  Staben.  one  of  the  most  energetic  of  the  early  pioneers  of  Kast 
Poowong,  was  one  of  the  first  to  take  an  acti\e  intei-est  in  the  establishment 
of  the  Poowong  Butter  Factory.  He  was  a  practical  farmer,  and  his  pro- 
perty Avas  always  looked  upon  as  an  object  lesson  on  South  (Jippsland  laiin 
ing.  always  actively  engaged  in  farming  i)ui'suits.  He  ?rwooned  suddenly 
whilst  at  woi-k  in  his  farmyard  and  never  regained  consciousness.  .Mrs.  Si  alien 
only  survived  him  about  four  years,  leaving  a  family  of  one  st)n  and  i'oiir 
daughters. 

]Mrs.  Anderson  i)asse(|  away  in  .Inly.  l;»0-_':  her  >islcr.  Mr<.  I>yricll. 
crossed  the  gi'eat  border  the  follow  ing  year.  These  arc  both  laid  lo  rc~l  in 
the  PooAvong  Cemetery. 

Mr.  I*.  (".  Petersen  i-ctiivd  IVom  faiming  and  settled  in  Koinnilinrra  (o 
spend  the  evening  of  life.  He  died  in  .Vugnst.  I'.X).'*.  from  the  cMects  of  a 
paralytic  stroke.  His  oidy  son  is  Mi-.  Kdward  I'elerscn.  who  is  well  l<n<»wn 
in  Korinnburra  and  surrounding  districts.  Mrs.  .^[ollel•.  Senr..  joined  ihc 
great  majority  in  duly.  liMl.  Mr.  X.  P.  Olscn  having  seen  all  his  family 
married  with  one  exception,  retirecl  and  lived  pi-ivalely  at  Enst  Camlu'ivvell . 
Mr.  Olsen  was  a  man  who  was  respected  and  beloved  by  nil  who  knew  him. 
and  at  the  rii)e  age  of  S"  years,  or.  the  I.iih  duly.  I'.M  I.  lie  pasM-d  to  his  linal 
rest . 

Might  it  not  be  said  of  all  liicsc  pioneers  thai  •"honesl  (oil  is  holy  ser- 
vice"— for  sur(dy  each  hi\~,  borne  his  and  hei'  shai-e  of  the  i-esponsibilil  ies  and 
burdens  that  are  inse|)arable  fiom  the  (asks  of  c(»nverting  a  "howling  wilder- 
ness," such  as  Poowong  East  was  in  the  seventies,  into  a  "land  llowinir  with 
milk  and  h(»nev."  such  as  it  is  to-dav^ 


Education. 

W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 

The  eiirlie>t  record  of  the  esti(i)lishiiieni  of  a  school  in  the  part  oi'  South 
(iippshuid  that  eomes  niuler  our  notice  is  that  of  Woohimai,  which  was 
opened  on  June  1,  186(3.  Tlien  foHowed  (xrantville  on  January  0,  1874, 
(xriffith's  Point.  March  26,  1874,  and  Corinella,  May  8,  1S74.  These  four 
schools  served  the  earlier  settlements  on  the  lightly  timbered  and  open  coast 
ctiuntry  between  Tobin  Yallock  and  Anderson's  Inlet.  In  the  early  part  of 
the  3'ear  1878  Messrs.  Gardner.  Plorsley,  Bnrchett,  Henry,  Cook.  Scott  and 
L.  C.  Holmes,  of  Poowong,  made  representations  to  the  Education  Depart- 
ment with  regard  to  opening  a  school  in  the  locality,  and  the  residents  ottered 
to  erect  a  l)uilding  for  school  puri)oses.  This  offer  being  accepted,  the  timber 
was  sawn  by  a  pit-sawyer  close  to  the  site  of  the  ])uilding.  and  the  roofing 
iron  and  other  materials  required  were  i)rought  l)y  steamer  to  Westernport 
and  thence  by  team  to  Poowong.  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes  had  the  contract  for 
the  building,  which  consisted  of  one  room,  and  was  the  first  public  building 
erected  in  this  part  of  the  foi'cst  country  of  South  (lippsland.  The  walls 
were>covered  with  unseasoned  blue  gum  Aveatherboai'ds.  and  as  the  lap  speci- 
fied AA-as  the  same  as  for  seasoned  pine,  after  the  first  summer's  shrinkage 
many  of  the  boards  had  contracted  so  much  that  Avind  and  Aveathe)-  penetrated 
fi'eely  through  the  openings.  The  building  Avas  erected  for  a  cliurch  anil 
let  to  the  Education  Department  for  school  purposes.  It  AAas  opened  as  a 
school  on  December  2,  1878,  AA^ith  Mr.  Chas.  Cook.  Avho  had  preA'iously  held 
appointments  in  the  Education  Department  in  the  Geelong  District,  and  had 
selected  land  on  the  Bass  RiA^er,  as  head  teacher.  Some  of  the  settlers  had 
been  liA-ing  on  their  holdings  foi-  some  years  l)efore  the  opening  of  the  s'chool, 
and  consecjuently  some  of  the  older  children  had  missed  scA'eral  years  of 
schooling,  and  it  took  some  time  be£c>re  the  heterogeneous  collection  of  young 
and  old  AAere  got  into  normal  school  routine.  The  first  examination  A^as  con- 
ducted by  Inspector  Campbell  on  ])ecember  ol,  1879. 

On  January  27,  1881.  the  building  had  a  narrow  escape  of 
being  burnt  OAving  to  the  Avind  changing  AA'hile  some  cut  scrub  in 
the  A'icinity  was  being  burned.  The  school  children  had  been  dis- 
missed, but  some  v/ho  loitered  on  the  road  home  had  their  road 
blocked  by  the  fire  and  AA^ere  in  considerable  danger  until  late  in  the  eA^ening. 
Avhen  the  track  AA-as  safe  for  them  to  resume  their  journey.  On  February  15, 
1881.  Truant-officer  McAlpine  paid  his  fii'st  official  visit  to  the  district,  and 
at  that  time  it  Avas  compulsory  for  each  child  of  school  age  to  attend  at  least 
30  days  in  each  quarter;  but.  OAving  to  the  abnormally  heavy  rainfall  during 
the  winter  months',  it  was  diilicnlt  for  some  children  to  get  in  even  this 
limited  number  of  days.  As  a  consequence  my  father  had  to  ride  to  Drouin. 
a  distance  of  about  20  miles,  to  attend  court,  the  journey  taking  two  days, 
and  had  to  satisfy  the  laAv  of  the  land  by  paying  a  fine  of  1/-  and  2/6  costs 
for  my  brother  and  myself,  aa'Iio  had  failed  to  attend  the  requisite  number 
of  days.  During  the  eighties  a  new  state  school  Avas  erected  in  the  PooAvong 
toAvnship.  and  Mr.  Cook  continued  his  duties  as  head  teacher  until  he  Avas 
superannuated. 

The  fir.st  school  in  the  Loch  district  opened  at  Suimyside.  in  1880.  with 
Miss  Marv  LeA's  as  teacher.     A  chock  and  lo£X  building  Avas  first  used,  until 


EDUCATION.  391 

it  Avas  destroyed  by  fire,  and  then  a  de.serted  hut  was  used,  ami  after  that  the 
Wesieyan  Church.  Miss  Leys,  the  daug-hter  of  a  retired  naAal  officer,  wlio, 
with  two  others,  cut  the  first  track  from  the  open  country  Uy  where  Loch 
now  stands,  came  to  the. district  in  1877.  and.  while  teachino-  at  the  Sunnvside 
school,  rode  four  miles  to  her  duties  every  day  alono;  the  usual  rouirh  hush 
track.  In  1889  the  school  was  transferred  to  Loch,  with  Mr.  Francis  CMarke 
as  teacher. 

In  1880  schools  were  opened  at  Fernhili.  now  St.  Ileiiei-.  and  at  KikuiKhi. 
where  a  coal  mine  had  been  opened. 

In  1881  a  building  was  erected  on  Mr.  Eccles"  property,  about  two  miles- 
north  of  where  Koruniburra  now  stands.  Though  in  the  parish  of  Korum- 
burra.  it  was  known  departnientally  as  the  Jeetho  East  school,  and  was  as  truly 
typical  of  pioneering  effort  that  it  is  worthy  of  detailed  descrii)tion.  It  was 
of  modest  dimensions.  •Hit.  x  15ft..  and  i't't.  high,  and  was  made  of  laish 
materials  by  the  residents'.  The  walls  were  made  of  paling,  the  roof  of 
shingles,  and  the  floor  of  rough  hewn  slabs.  The  furnittn-e  at  first  was  some- 
Vvhat  primitive,  split  slabs  placed  on  blocks,  some  high,  some  low,  the  former 
doing  duty  as  desks,  the  latter  as  seats.  These  gave  place  later  to  the  nioi-e 
finished  article,  which  some  ten  weeks  later  left  the  workshop  in  Melbourne, 
were  carried  by  boat  to  Westernport.  and  in  due  time  arri\ed  at  the  school 
building  on  a  sledge.  Mr.  E.  AVilliamson.  afterwards  head  leachei-  at 
Korumburra.   was  the  first  teacher  ai)i)()inted   to  this   very   pi-imiti\t'  school. 

In  the  same  year  a  school  was  established  in  the  (ieachville  Hall,  on 
the  property  of  Mr.  Frank  (Jeach.  \\'hen  Mount  Eccles.  about  a  mile  to  tlu' 
south,  became  the  centre  of  settlement  in  the  locality,  the  school  wa>.  in 
1889.  removed  there  in  sections  and  re-erected  upon  an  aci'e  of  ground  donated 
by  a  local  resident.  At  first  the  school  was  worked  as  a  half-time  si-hool  in 
conjunction  with  Halston,  about  six  miles  distant,  until  the  increased  atten- 
dance raised  its  status.  In  19L2  a  new  building  was  erected,  ami  the  "old 
pioneer"  now  does  duty  as  a  shelter  shed.  Mount  Eccles  i-.  in  point  of  alti- 
tude, one  of  the  highest  schools  in  South  (ri|)pslan(l.  and  U>\-  many  years, 
on  account  of  the  steej)  and  rough  tracks,  was  almost  isolateil.  ( )ii  (<ne 
occasion  a  lady  teacher,  newly  apjxjinted  to  this  school.  arri\t'il  by  train  at 
Leongatha.  and  asked  at  the  li\eiy  stables  to  be  supplied  with  a  hoi-se  and 
Aehicle  to  take  hei'  and  hei'  luggage  to  Mount  Eccles.  The  proprietor  said 
that  if  the  Imly  would  leave  a  depo.-it  of  t'.")()  and  pay  him  for  two  days' 
hire,  he  would  undertake  the  journey.  Xcediess  to  say.  the  laily  iriuiiu'd  lo 
the  city   the    following  day. 

In  Issl.  owing  to  the  eH'oi-ls  of  some  of  the  i-esidents  (d'  \\'oodleigh. 
am(»ng  whom  wcic  Messrs.  Bowman,  i'/iggar.  Ileiu'V.  llanrahan.  Michie. 
Mc(iill.  and  \\'ard.  a  school  was  established  in  the  district.  A  building  was 
brouirht  in  -<'(tions  by  boat  to  the  Ked  lilull  and  carted  thence  by  Mi\  (Jeo. 
liinding.  who  also  elected  it  on  AA'ard's  Hill,  where  it  was  known  as  the 
Jumbunna  State  School.  Xo.  Jir,:',.  The  (irst  teacher  appointed  was  Mr. 
E.  J.  A\'ilson.  a  pioneer  settler  of  .led  ho.  who  stai-led  with  an  attendance  of 
47  pupils  in  .June.  18S"i.  a  publi<'  pii-nic  being  held  to  celebrate  the  occasion. 
The  site,  though  it  commanded  a  magnificent  land  and  seascape  stretching 
from  the  liaw  I»aw  Mountains  in  the  north  !<»  Bass"  Strait  in  the  south.  \v  a-.. 
chiefly  on  account  of  its  altitude,  somewhat  unsuitable  for  a  school,  anil  it 
w^as  removed  in  l)^9-2  to  its  present  site,  jjurchased  from  Mr.  Delaney.  In 
the  years  190()-7-8  the  school  gained  second  class,  and  in  1!)H»-I1.  first  r-Ias- 
certificates  for  effectively  planted  and   well-kept   garden  and   grounds. 


39J  EDUCATION. 

In  the  early  eia-hties  n  nuiiiher  of  settlers  to  the  east  of  Poowong  cleared 
a  -iie  for  a  seluiol  at  the  junction  of  McDonald's  Track  and  the  East  Poowong 
Koad.  and  there  a  small  paling  and  shingle  building  Ava.s  erected  by  Mr. 
Medley  and  leased  to  the  Education  Department  for  school  purposes.  It 
^Yas  named  Kanceby  after  Mr.  Medley's  residence.  It  Ayas  opened  in  January, 
1888.  with  ^liss  J.  'Mackay  as  teacher.  Her  experiences  were  of  the  roughest, 
as  during  part  of  the  time  she  rode  each  morning  from  her  father's  home, 
near  Korunfburra,  to  the  school,  a  distance  of  five  or  six  miles,  through  pack- 
track>.  or  trenches,  often  knee-deep  in  mud.  returning  in  the  evening,  often 
after  d.irk.  in  all  weathers.  Tlic  school  was  burned  down  in  the  great  fire 
of  February.  1808.  when  Miss  Mackay  had  a  very  trying  experience,  working 
heroically  with  others  to  save  the  lives  of  the  younger  children  until  she  was 
completely  exhausted.  Two  years  later,  when  the  school  was  rebuilt,  she  was 
reai)pointed  to  it.  and  held  the  position  until  her  retirement  from  the  service 
in    1903. 

In  1884  the  first  school  at  Mardan — which  in  the  native  language  means 
••misery" — was  built  in  the  midst  of  the  dense  bush  by  ^Ir.  Elliott.  It  was 
a  wooden  building  30ft.  x  15ft.,  with  a  slab  floor.  Mr.  E'oran  was  the  fir.st 
teacher,  and  the  number  of  scholars  32.  In  1009  an  up-to-date  weatherboard 
building.  26ft.  x  'iift.,  was  erected  by  the  Education  Department.  The 
grounds  have  been  neatly  fenced,  and  there  is  now  a  fine  plantation,  a  garden 
laid  out  in  walks,  and  nursery  and  experimental  plots  have  been  established. 
The  pioneers  comprised  Messrs.  Elliott.  Pincini.  Iniilis.  Toomey.  Howard, 
Campbell  Bros.,  and  Trease. 

The  Jeetho  .school  was  opened  in  188().  in  a  small  bush  building  erected 
in  the  corner  of  a  small  clearing  Avith  heavy  Inish  on  three  sides,  and  tall 
!)luegum  and  l)lackbutt  trees  towering  into  the  sky.  the  heavy  foliage  almost 
excluding  the  .sunlight.  It  opened  Avith  an  attendance  of  20.  and  for  the 
first  three  years  was  in  charge  of  ^Nlr.  E.  J.  Wilson,  formerly  teacher  at  Wood- 
leigh.  In  the  latter  part  of  1800  ^Ir.  StieloAv  was  a])pointed  to  the  school, 
and  continued  in  charge  until  1015,  having  in  the  meantime  obtained  for  the 
school  a  very  Avide  reputation.  In  1807  Inspector  Bothroyd  conducted  two 
examinations  under  the  "result''  system.  The  percentage  of  passes  was  100 
and  remained  at  that  high  IcA^el  until  the  ""resulf'  sy.stem  Avas  abolished.  A 
neAv  school  to  accommodate  75  pupils  was  erected  in  1008.  and  the  old  build- 
ing fitted  up  for  an  infants'  room,  necessitating  an  increase  in  the  stall',  and 
raising  the  status  of  the  school.  In  1892  the  South  (rippsland  Agricultural 
Society  first  ottered  ])rizes  for  State  school  Avork.  and  of  these  the  Jeetho 
school  gained  nine;  and  in  nineteen  years  has  secured  858  prizes,  .some  in 
competitions  in  States  outside  Victoria.  In  1900  the  Royal  Agricidtnral 
ShoAv  Committee  offered  three  valiialjle  prizes  for  essays,  and  Jeetho 
scholars  Avere  .successful  in  obtaining  first  and  second  prizes,  and  the  folloAV- 
ing  year  in  the  same  subject,  first,  second  and  third  prizes.  At  the  A.X.A. 
Exhibition  in  1900  a  gold  medal  for  best  handAvriting.  and  first  and  second 
prizes  for  draAving.  came  to  Jeetho.  and  in  1010  the  Jeetho  pupils  secured 
the  whole  of  the  eight  prizes  aAvarded  for  Avriting.  and  tAvo  for  di'aAving  at 
the  A.X.A.  Exhibition.  In  the  first  year  that  merit  certificates  were  i.ssued, 
two  Avere  awardpn  to  ihc  .leetlio  school,  ibe  total  number  gained  by  it  t(»  date 
(1018)  being  102.  most  of  Avhich  Avere  gained  during  the  last  five  years.  The 
first  .scholarship  was  gained  in  1009,  two  in  1911.  and  three  in  1912.  The 
school  gained  the  A.X.A.  prizes  for  best  school  garden  for  eight  years  in 
succession.  The  pupils  haAe  cultiA'ated  plots  for  a  considerable  time,  and 
on  one  occasion  donated  a  ton  of  potatoes  groAvn  on  these  ])lots  to  the  Chil- 
dren's Hospital,  ^lelbourne.       The  percentage  of  attendance   at   this  school 


EDUCATION.  393 

has  l>een  very  remarkable,  raiiirinir  for  many  years  between  !».")  and  100  per 
cent.,  though  the  bulk  of  the  children  came  from  considerable  distances.  sv»me 
travelling  between  80  and  40  miles  by  rail.  Local  ett'ort  contributed  largely 
to  the  equipment  of  the  school  and  grounds',  pai'ticularly  in  supplying  a 
piano,  shelter-shed  and  library.  It  was  recognised  that  the  Jeetho  school 
offered  special  opportunities  to  pupils,  especially  seniors  who  i)Ossessed  ability 
and  ambition,  and  the  results  ai-e  (juite  uni(|ue  in  school  history.  Teachers 
in  other  districts  complained  that  pai'ents.  by  sending  the  most  promising 
pupils  to  the  Jeetho  school,  had  helped  to  keep  down  the  records  of  tlieir 
own  district  schools.  There  was  certainly  much  truth  in  this  contention; 
nevertheless.  Mr.  Stielow's  ability  in  securing  merit  certificates  and  scholar- 
ships for  his  pupils  was  undoubtedly  the  chief  factor  in  the  success  of  the 
Jeetho  school.  The  school  was  accidentally  burnt  down  in  1014.  but  was  re- 
built. Messrs.  J.  G.  Wilson.  X.  Bennett.  Hosking  and  Ireland  were  some  of 
the  fii's't  settlers. 

A  school  was  opened  on  Jantiarv  16.  1880.  at  Mountain  View,  and  one 
at  Inverloch  in  Augtist  of  the  same  year.  At  Halston,  in  the  hills  some- 
where midway  between  Leongatha  and  Tarragon,  a  school  was  built  by  the 
early  settlers  and  leased  to  the  Government  in  188(5.  It  opened  with  nu 
attendance  of  22  scholars,  many  of  whom  lia<l  to  walk'  fioui  tlirci'  to  four 
miles  through  the  forest  to  attend  school. 

In  1888.  shortly  after  the  oi)ening  of  the  .Mirboo  \orth  railway,  a  >cliool 
was  erected  on  the  top  of  Berry's  Hill,  which,  until  a  deviation  was  made. 
Avas  one  of  the  most  diffictdt  hills  to  be  found  on  any  of  the  main  road>  of 
South  Gippsland.  The  first  teacher  appointed  was  Miss  David.  The  school 
was  btirned  in  the  bushfires  of  1898.  and  for  over  a  year  the  district  was 
without  a  school:  luil  in  1800  a  new  school  was  opened  at  Berry's  Creek,  with 
Mr.  Tanner  as  teachei'.  Among  the  early  >ettlei'^  were  ^Messrs.  Smith. 
St.  Ellen,  and  Aberdeen. 

The  year  1880  constitutes  a  i-ecord  in  the  e>labli>huienl  ^>\'  >tate  >ch(.ols 
in  the  hill  country  under  review.  Leongatha.  Loch.  Aliuuitn.  Aniwata  .md 
Krowera  claiming  this  as  the  year  of  their  birth. 

The  .Vlmurta  mIiooI  was  opened  on  New  dear's  Day.  isso.  It  w;i-  first 
known  as  Jnmbunna  South.  h\it  was  changed  to  its  present  uauK;  <d'  native 
origin,  meaning  "sweet."  at  the  instance  of  Mr.  Paul,  of  (irantville.  'I'he 
earliei'  settlei-s  of  the  di>trict   were  Messrs.  "W'al-on.  Ilardiug  and   M.  P.nwinan. 

Krowera  state  school  was  opened  on  May  1(>.  18S0.  Mr.  Johnston  Hughs- 
ton  being  the  first  teachei".  He  enjoye(l  the  luxury  (in  (hose  days)  of  a 
spring  nnittress;  but  bef(tre  he  had  the  i)leasure  of  thai  experience.  Mr. 
Thon7i)son  had  the  unpleasant  expeiience  of  cari-ying  the  mattress  (»\er  two 
miles  through  the  dense  mtuI).  Miss  (Jrace  Hall  and  Mr.  11.  I>.  VnU'  suc- 
ceeded Mr.  Tlughston  as  teachers'.  The  early  settlers  were  Messi's.  liiggar, 
Belfi-aL'c.  Mann.  B.  Wilson.  J.  K.  Stewart   and  Jos.  Thompson. 

As  a  re-iilt  of  local  meeting-  a  public  hall  for  -cIkmiI  and  chnivh  purposes 
Avas  erecteil  on  ihc  Two-chain  road  near  the  jinx'tion  of  the  Kardeila  road. 
It  was  known  as  the  Ivoi'umburra  Hall,  and  s.liool  was  opened  (here  by  Mr. 
Canale  on  September  28,  1880.  When  the  (Jreat  Sou(h('rn  lailway  was 
started,  and  Korumburi-a  townshij)  spiang  iM(o  exis(ence.  i(  became  neces- 
sarv.  in  order  to  avoid  confusion,  (o  find  a  new  name  for  the  dis(ric(  and 
school,  and  the  nam.'  <if  ••Arawata."  Afr.  I>.  C  Hobnes'  residence,  was  chosen, 


Siu  EDUCATION. 

and  t.lm<  llu'  Korunihurni  .-cliool  l>ocaiiu'  tlu"  Arawata  school.  It  was  situated 
in  one  of  the  very  heaviest  timhered  parts  of  South  Gippshmd,  and  it  was 
over  twenty  years  before  the  school  and  grounds  were  reasonabl}^  safe  from 
falling  timber.  For  many  years  the  parents  assembled  annually  as  a  work- 
inir  bee  to  cut  down  some  of  the  enormous  trees,  and  in  later  years  to 
cleiir  and  burn  oli'  the  fallen  timber  from  the  school  giound.  Some 
would  bi-ing  iix(>s.  others  saws,  shovels,  screwjacks,  or  teams  of  horses  and 
bullocks.  Mr.  Canale  was  succeeded  by  Miss  Connor,  who.  after  12  years' 
service,  was  in  turn  succeeded  by  Mr.  A.  Mitchell,  to  whom  is  due  most  of 
the  credit  for  the  picturesque  appearance  of  the  garden  and  grounds,  which 
have  been  awarded  a  first  prize  certificate. 

The  Ijeongatha  state  school  was  started  during  September.  1889.  in  the 
Kooroman  Hall,  which  was  leased  for  school  purposes.  The  building  Avas' 
built  of  hardwood  boards,  and  had  calico  windoAvs.  A  few  planks  of  hard- 
wood placed  on  sawn  blocks  constituted  seating  accommodation,  and  for  the 
first  fortnight  the  only  school  material  Avas  a  packet  of  notepaper  and  a  feAv 
leadpencils  which  the  teacher  (Mr.  Deuholm)  had  purchased.  An  urgent 
request  to  the  Education  Department  resulted  in  the  arrival,  per  mail  boy 
via  Mirboo,  some  17  miles  distant,  of  30  copy  books  and  '24  slates,  the  cost 
of  transport  being  30/-.  The  copy  l)0(>ks  Avere  not  used  for  several  months. 
owing  to  the  absence  of  desks.  In  NoAember.  1889.  Mr.  John  Jeffrey  Avas 
appointed,  and  held  the  position  of  teacher  until  1905.  AA'hen  he  retired  on  a 
pension.  In  March,  1890,  the  Kooroman  Hall  authorities  gave  the  Depart- 
ment notice  to  quit,  and  a  contract  Avas'  let  for  the  erection  of  a  school  build- 
ing. In  the  meantime  Mr.  Jelfrey  offered  to  teach  the  children  at  his  resi- 
dence, and  did  so  for  OAer  six  months.  Mr.  Cowling  had  charge  of  the  ucav 
school  from  1902  to  1909,  and  during  his  term  a  library  of  200  volumes,  two 
shelter-sheds,  school  garden.  sAvings,  sewing  machines,  and  teaching  aids  Avere 
among  the  many  improvements  added.  iSIr.  M.  Clanchy  took  charge  in  1909. 
and  as  the  buildings  had  again  become  oAcrcroAvded.  a  large  infant  room, 
cloak  room,  lavatory,  and  corridor  Avere  added,  at  a  cost  of  £000. 

The  estaljlishment  of  the  Agricultural  High  School  Avas  the  outcome  of 
much  local  controversy  and  continued  effort,  under,  at  times,  great  discourage- 
ment. As  far  back  as  1902.  when  a  strong  attempt  was  made  through  the 
shire  council  to  subdiAdde  and  .sell  the  whole  of  the  Labour  Cok)ny  area,  one 
or  tAvo  citizens  entered  vigorous  protests,  and  urged  that  the  area  should  be 
retained  for  the  establishment  of  a  dairying  and  agincultural  college.  The 
Government.  hoAvcA-er.  sold  portion  of  it.  In  1905  and  1900  the  agitation 
for  subdivision  A\'as  vigorously  rencAved  and  again  opposed.  The  .igricul- 
tural  high  school  system  Avas  then  being  much  discussed,  and  as  Koiumbui-ra 
Avas  anxious  to  haA^e  one  of  these  schools  established,  a  meeting  was  held  at 
Korumburra  at  which  a  Leongatha  representatiA  e  attended,  and  it  was  re- 
soh'ed  to  try  and  obtain  an  Agricultural  High  School  for  Korumburra  and 
an  Agricultural  College  for  Leongatha.  The  proposals'  Avere  placed  by  a 
deputation  before  the  Minister  (Mr.  SAvinburne).  who  stated  that  he  con- 
sidered Leongatha  too  far  east  for  an  Agi'icultural  College,  but  he  Avas  agree- 
able that  an  Agricultural  High  School  should  be  "established  there.  It  Avas 
estimated  that  the  initial  cost  of  erecting  buildings  Avould  be  £1500.  and  the 
Woorayl  Shire  Council  made  the  erection  of  the  school  possible  l\v  agreeing 
to  raise  £750  towards'  the  cost,  the  payment  being  spread  over  a  j^eriod  of 
three  years.  An  extra  rate  of  3d.  in"  the  pound  was  imposed  in  1900.  but 
owing  to  a  change  of  Ministry,  and  the  lack  of  interest  throughout  the  State 
in  connection  Avith  the  high  school  movement,  nothing  was' done   for  some 


EDUCATION.  .S9o 

time.  Later,  liowever,  monex-  was  placed  on  the  estimates  for  the  establish- 
ment of  the  school,  and  in  1910  a  site  was  chosen  on  the  I-abour-colony  area, 
after  a  visit  by  Mr.  Frank  Tate  (Director  of  P^ducation).  the  Hon.  J.  E. 
Macke3\  M.L.A.,  and  Inspector  Leach.  The  new  school  was  opened  olhcially 
on  March  T.  1013.  by  Mr.  Frank  Tate.  The  occasion  was  made  the  oppor- 
tunity for  holding  an  interestino-  exhibition  of  school  work,  at  which  over 
39  district  schools  exhibited.  The  foundation  members  of  the  Council  were 
Messrs.  AV.  L.  Livino-stone.  P.  Johnson.  G.  F.  iSIichael.  S.  C.  "Wilson.  J.  M 
Molloy.  P.  Xash.  J.  OToole.  A.  Allan.  AVm.  Kussell.  J.  Eccles.  AA^m.  AA^atson, 
S.  S.  Smith.  A.  PI  Xelson,  R.  Kewish.  J.  T.  AAllloughby.  P.  Matthewman,  and 
Dr.  Carr.  The  staff  consisted  of  Messrs.  A.  Mesley  (Principal).  Sharpe.  M.A.. 
Cornell,  and  Miss  Adamson.  M.A. 

The  ej^tablishuient  of  a  State  s^chool  at  .Juiiibmma  l^^ast  was  in  keeping 
with  the  primitive  condition  of  the  comitry.  Mr.  Bailey,  who  had  only 
a  few  days  previously  arrived  in  Australia  from  Ireland,  was  the  first  teacher 
appointed.  His  first  Imsiness  was  to  explore  the  various  tracks  to  find  the 
settlers,  and  ascertain  the  number  of  scholars  with  which  to  open  his  roll, 
the  result  being  an  attendance  of  eight  i>upils  upon  the  o))ening  day  in 
January.  1890.  The  school  building  was  built  of  logs  Avith  a  shingle  roof 
and  slab  floor,  and  was  owned  by  ^Tr.  Arthui-  P^lms.  Desks,  seats,  etc..  were 
mainly  conspicuous  by  their  absence.  A  neiglibouring  settler,  however,  made 
some  rough  benches  by  boring  auger  holes  into  the  log  walls,  and  then  driving 
pegs  into  them  and  placing  split  slabs  along  the  top  of  the  pegs.  These  did 
duty  until  desks  and  other  necessaries  were  supplied.  School  contimicd  hero 
for  some  years,  until  in  1S98  the  Education  Department  sent  Mr.  McLcod  to 
open  a  school  in  the  Jumbunnn  Hall.  Avhere  he  had  charge  for  (wo  years.  Dur- 
ing his  term,  a  heavy  wind  storm  overturned  the  hall,  fortunately  during  the 
night.  AA^hile  it  was  being  rebuilt,  the  children  were  taught  in  an  old  build- 
ing in  Station  Street.  For  some  time  the  attendance  only  averaged  about 
20,  but  it  gra<lually  increased  until  the  hall  became  too  small,  and  a  fine  .school 
was  ei'ected  in  1900.  The  attendance  continued  to  increase  until  the  juipils 
numbered  ISO,  neces'sitating  increased  accommodation.  Mr.  McLcod  was  su«-- 
ceeded  by  Mr.  AA^.  Eccles,  son  of  one  of  the  Korumbuj-ra  pionccis.  who  had 
charge  for  17  years.  The  original  settlers  were  AFc'ssrs.  Elliott,  nine.  (ihw. 
Herring,  Horsley,  McLeorl.  Clancy.   Ebu-.   Parsons.   Painbow    and    Math("~('n. 

In  the  year  1890  a  school  wiis  opened  at  Hena  in  wiiat  bad  l)eeii  a  Colicc 
Palace,  and  continued  thei'c  until  the  present  building  was  erected  by  the 
Education  Dej^artmeut.  The  first  teacher  was  Mr.  Opie.  \vh(»  was  succeeded 
by  Mr.  Mitchell,  and  then  by  Mi^s  Mary  T^eys.  one  of  the  pioiu'cr  teachers 
of  the  district.  Pioneers: — IJ.  J.  I'ldlcr.  T.  d.  Coxcrihde.  Pobjoy  I'ros., 
—  Kewish,  C.  Blew. 

On  Octobei-  1,  1.S9].  school  wa>  started  at  Uiidgc  ('reek  in  a  biiihiing 
erected  by  four  local  I'esideiits.  A  sawmill  was  in  operation  there  at  (he 
time,  and  the  school  was  established  chielly  in  the  intei'ests  of  the  "niill" 
children,  as  they  were  designated,  il  had  a  nnid  chimney,  and  was  unlined 
for  the  first  ten  years.  In  1901.  Ii(iw<'\('i\  by  the  ell'orts  of  (he  teacher,  a 
sum  of  money  was  raise(I.  and  the  school  was  lirnMl  and  |»ainle<|.  and  a  liri«-i< 
chimney  ei-ecfed. 

School  was  established  about  .Inly.  Isi'l.  a(  Mardan  South,  in  the  old 
Presbyterian  Church,  and  was  held  there  for  about  (en  years,  until  a  iicw 
school  was  built  upon  five  acres  of  laiul  near  (he  (ov  nship,  connnanding 
extensi\-e    aIcws  of   South    (iip])sland   scenery.        The    fiist    teaciiei'   was   Mr. 


396  EDUCATION. 

Walt (.'!•>.  Tlu'  ^clu)()l  coininitteo  and  parents  have  taken  a  lively  interest  in 
the  scluH)!.  and  have  contributed  nearly  £1U0  in  cash,  liesides  other  donations 
in  kinil,  and  lune  done  a  irreat  amount  of  work  at  workina-  l^ees.  The  school 
is  now  a  tine,  uji-to-date  huildino;.  comfortable  and  well  e(juipped.  Among 
those  who  have  taken  a  keen  interest  in  tlie  development  of  the  s'chool  are 
Messrs.  A.  McKinnon.  (Iray.  Steele.  Wilson.  .].  Coulter,  and  d.  McQueen. 

The  residents  of  Fairl)ank  in  1S1>2  built  a  comfortable  and  commodious 
hall  on  Mr.  E.  Mitchell's  property,  from  which  the  dis,trict  received  its  name, 
and  there  a  school  was  opened  on  Xovember  28  of  the  same  year.  For  some 
years  previously  ^Nlrs.  Alex.  McXaughton.  one  of  the  pioneer  settlers  of  the 
district,  had  gathered  the  neighbours'  children  at  her  own  home,  and  taught 
them  on  several  days  of  each  week.  This  is  but  one  of  several  instances  where 
early  settlers  in  remote  districts  have  gratnitonsly  given  their  s'ervices  in  teach- 
ing children  unable  to  participate  in  State  education.  The  school  opened 
Avith  an  attendance  of  1-2  pupils,  and  40  is  the  highest  number  enrolled.  Miss 
Campbell  was  the  first  teacher  The  early  settlers  were  Messrs.  Mitchell. 
]\IcLellan.  JBtard.  Tack.  ^SlcXanghton.  Easmussen,  Hamman  and  Calder. 

The  establishment  of  the  village  settlement  at  Kardella.  as  well  as  the 
number  of  sawmill  hands  with  families,  caused  an  immediate  need  for  a 
school,  with  the  result  that  a  public  hall  was  built  of  sawn  timber  supplied 
gratuitously  by  Mr.  McColl.  millowner.  and  .school  was  opened  in  it  on 
Xovember  7,  1893.  Mr.  Flude  was  the  first  teacher,  followed  by  Mr.  Patter- 
son. The  attendance  became  .so  large  that  the  Department  removed  a  large 
school  from  Chines  and  erected  it  on  ^fr.  R.  Cornairs  property.  Mr.  Mankey 
was  the  next  teacher,  and  then  Mr.  Evans  and  ^Ir.  Greenwood.  The  school 
has  a  fine  garden,  and  a  tine  plantation  of  native  and  im])orted  trees,  giving 
protection  from  winter  storms  and  summer  Jieat.  The  parents'  interest  in 
the  .school  is  evinced  by  the  fine  shelter-shed,  laboratory  equij^ijed  with  chemi- 
cal balances,  milk-testing  machines,  and  other  api^aratus  enal)ling  pupils  to 
practice  science  as  applied  to  modern  dairying.  Mr.  R.  Cornall,  one  of  the 
school  committee,  is  an  enthusiastic  entomologist,  and  for  several  years  gave 
periodical  demonsti-ations  on  the  subject  to  the  scholars.  AuKmg  the  pioneer 
settlers  were  Messrs.  R.  and  J.  Cornall.  J.  Brydon.  J.  J.  Palmer.  A.  Bari-ett 
and  Spr}'. 

Ryanston.  originally  known  as  (Toodliurst.  •icliool  was  ojiened  on  August 
16.  1894.  as  a  half-time  school  with  Powlett  River,  with  ^iv.  A.  A.  Farthing 
(later  M.L.A.)  as  teacher.  Later,  a  full  time  school  with  ^Ir.  Crossley  as 
teacher,  was  started  in  a  Ijuilding  erected  by  yiv.  Jas.  Daly.  An  up-to-date 
building  was  built  by  the  Department  in  a  more  central  situation,  and  opened 
as  a  .school  on  June  30.  11>09. 

The  Glenalvie  state  school  was  originally  established  at  ^Ir.  A^arcoe's 
residence,  and  then  known  as  the  Wonthaggi  Xorth  -chool.  and  conducted 
as  a  half-time  .school,  in  conjunction  with  Almurta.  by  Mr.  (i.  H.  Wood. 
Owing  to  the  large  increase  of  scholars  at  Glenalvie,  a  pulilic  hall  was  built 
and  school  started  there  Avith  an  average  attendance  of  50  pupils,  under  Mr. 
Ronald  McDonald.  In  1900  the  name  was  changed  to  Glenalvie.  The  pio- 
neers were  Messrs.  R.  X.  and  F.  J.  Scott,  Walker,  Edwards  and  Dowel. 

The  Ruby  .state  school  was  established  in  1894.  In  1895  the  Outtrim 
school  was  started,  and  from  that  date  to  the  year  1913  the  following  long 
list  of  state  schools  have  been  estal)lished  in  various  j^ai-ts  of  the  district  to 
keep  pace  with  its  educational  re(|uirements : — 1899.  Konawak  and  Kilcuuda 


EDUCATION.  397 

Road;  1900.  l)aly>t()n:  1901.  Kooromaii,  Xerreiia  East.  Powlett  Kiver.  and 
Trida;  1903.  Koruniburra  South:  1905.  Allaiubee  East;  1900.  (Hen  Forbes; 
1907.  Moyarra:  1909.  Ferndale.  Kardella  South:  1910,  AVontha<rg-i :  1911. 
Hicksborough.  Dudley,  PooAvong  East.  Alhinibee  Hall:  191-J.  St.  (Mair.  Edgar- 
ton;  1913,  Glen  P\)rbes  South. 

All  praise  is  due  to  the  P^ducation  Department  for  its  readiness  at  all 
times  to  provide  teachers  and  schools.  The  hilly  and  inaccessible  nature  of 
the  country,  together  with  the  fact  that  the  whole  of  Soutii  Gippsland  is 
fairly  densely  populated,  l;as  probablj^  ren'dered  it  necessary  for  the  Depart- 
ment to  provide  a  proportionally  greater  number  of  teachers  and  schools  in 
South  Gippsland  than  in  an}^  other  province  of  the  State.  Only  those  with 
personal  experience  of  the  early  settlement  can  place  a  correct  value  on  the 
services  rendered  by  the  teachers  during  the  initial  stages  of  settlement.  The 
personal  discomforts,  both  Avith  regard  to  the  primitive  structures  in  which 
they  taught,  the  rough  and  ready  accommodation  of  the  bush  homestead,  the 
bush  tracks,  a  succession  of  rnudholes  for  the  greater  part  of  the  year,  and 
the  interminable  drizzle  and  rain,  Avere  surely  bad  enough  for  men  teachers, 
bttt  for  lady  teachers,  fresh  from  city  life — they  must  siu-ely  have  been 
heroines  to  carry  on  their  work  under  such  conditions.  Often  suital)le  accom- 
modatioij  could  not  be  obtained  within  walking  distance  of  the  school,  and 
the  lady  teacher  has  had  to  start  by  teacliing  herself  to  control  and  ride  a 
horse  up  and  down  hills  and  gorges,  along  bush  pack-tracks,  and  to  learn  the 
art  of  opening  and  shutting  gates  and  sliprails  from  the  saddle.  For  the 
most  part,  it  may  l)e  said  to  their  credit  that  they  put  up  with  the  roughness 
and  discomforts  of  bush  life  with  Spartan  courage  and  Christian  fortitude. 

And  one  cannot  but  feel  sympathy  also  for  both  the  mothers  and  chil- 
dren during  those  first  decades  when  drizzling  rain,  day  after  day,  for  over 
six  months  of  the  year,  Avas  the  conunon  exi)erience.  \\'el  garments  and  wet 
feet,  Avhich  were  more  usual  than  dry  ones;  mud  and  slush  underfoot,  with 
luidergroAvth  and  bush  dripping  water  throtigh  all  the  long  winter,  meant 
continual  drying  of  clothes,  with  the  many  ailments  to  which  ciiildrt'ii  are 
liable. 

Thus  we  find  that  the  Educati(ui  Department,  their  line  stall  of  teachers, 
the  parents  and  also  their  children,  have  all  borne  their  part  in  making  the 
history  of  education  during  the  making  ;iii<l  lniilding  up  of  a  new  and  \alu- 
able  province. 


The    Methodist    Church    in    South    Gippsland. 

THE  REV.  JAS.  SMITH. 

Following  in  the  wake  of  the  selector  pioneer 
there  came  the  ecclesiastical  pioneer,  designated  by 
some  the  "s'kv  pilot.'"  The  Methodist  Church  was 
earl}^  in  the  field.  Her  first  services  Avere  conducted 
in  the  Ironies  of  the  people  or.  Aveather  permitting, 
in  the  open  air. 

At  the  close  of  the  year  1S7T.  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
present  toAvnship  of  Poowong.  there  was  a  notice  on 
a  big  gum  tree  intimating  that  "Divine  Service  will 
be  held  at  Mr.  Burchett's  house  at  3  o'clock  on  Sun- 
day, December  30,  l.sTT;  all  welcome."  This  ser- 
vice was  duly  held  and  Avas  conducted  by  Mr.  Caleb 
Burchett,  an  excellent  lay  jDreacher  of  the  Methodist 
Church,  formerly  of  Brunswick.  From  that  date 
regidar  services  Avere  established.  Soon  the  congre- 
gation became  too  large  for  the  ••Church  in  the 
house,"  and  steps  Avere  taken  to  erect  a  church.  The 
EeA',  John  Watsford,  the  General  Secretary  of 
Methodist  Home  Missions,  Avas  intervicAved,  and  he 
promised  to  visit  PooAvong.  Great  preparation  Avas  made  for  Mi-.  Watsford's 
A'i&it.  A  big  tent  Avas  sent  up  from  Melbourne.  In  this  a  preaching  service 
Avas  held  on  the  Sunday,  and  a  tea  and  public  meeting  during  the  Aveek.  The 
object  Avas  "to  raise  funds  for  the  erection  of  a  Wesleyan  Church  for  the 
parishes  of  PooAvong  and  Jeetho  on  a  portion  of  the  reserA'e  al)Out  to  be  sold.'' 
This  was  a  most  successful  function.  The  settlers  came  from  far  and  near. 
A  subscription  list  was  started  and  Avas  liberally  responded  t(».  That  list 
bears  the  names  of  some  of  the  earlv  settlers  of  (xipjislnad.  viz..  Mark  Gardi- 
ner, W.  V.  Hill.  C.  Burchett.  C.  Cook.  C.  H.  Gardiner.  T.  Fordvce,  AY.  H. 
Bee,  F.  Hammond.  D.  Ferrier.  E.  C.  Holmes,  W.  Foreman.  I).  Mt-Tavish.  C. 
Mair,  —  Faithful,  —  Gowdie,  —  Grant,  S.  Medley.  P.  J.  ^[uri)hv.  W.  Hors- 
ley,  D.  Beckett,  W.  Baker,  Miss  Motton,  Miss  L.  ^lotton.  and  Mrs.  Clayson. 
Mr.  Gardner  wai<  elected  treasurer,  and  Mr.  Hill  and  Mr.  C.  H.  Gardner 
secretaries. 

It  was  not  an  easy  matter  to  build  in  those  days.  OAving  to  very  Avet 
weather  the  first  men  engaged  in  timber  getting  aliiuidoned  their  contract. 
Others  AviHi  stouter  hearts  took  the  job  on  and  soon  the  contract  for  the  erec- 
tion of  the  building  Avas  let  to  Mr.  L.  C.  Holmes,  a  ncAv  settler. 

The  ReA'.  J.  C.  Symons  had  the  honour  of  preaching  the  ojiening  services. 
A  .successful  tea  and  public  meeting  Avas  held  next  day.  The  tea  meeting 
ticket  liears  the  date  of  Xovember  4.  1S78. 

Sulis'equently  other  chin-ches  Avere  built.  The  preachers"  plan  has  the 
names  of  PooAvong.  PooAvong  North.  Sunnyside,  Fernhill.  Lang  Lang  East 
and  Medley's.  Changes  since  those  early  days  have  taken  i)lace  in  the  eccle- 
siastical boundaries  of  PooAvong  and  its  surroundings,  but  Di\ine  service  has 
always  been  held  in  PooAvong. 


THE     METHODIST    CHURCH    IN    SOUTH    GIPPSLAND.  .S99 

As  the  settlers  beg-an  to  go  hirther  south  to\Yards  Tarwiii.  ami  east  to- 
AA'ards  Mirboo,  there  was  a  vast  stretch  of  ooinitrv  where  no  religioiis  services 
Avere  held.  An  occasional  service  was  held  on  the  coast  bv  a  visiting  deriry- 
man  from  Yarram.  It  was  a  kind  of  yearly  visitation  to  two  places.  Wara- 
tah  Bay  and  "Black's"  on  the  Tarwin.  Some  good  Methodists  fi-om  Baliarat 
and  district  had  taken  \i\)  land  in  Leongatha.  Jumbunna  and  Korunibni-i-a. 
They  felt  the  need  of  a  "spiritual  shepherd.""'  Representations  were  matle 
to  the  Eev.  E.  S.  Bickford,  who  had  succeeded  the  Kev.  J.  Watsford  as  (ieneral 
Secretary  of  Home  Missions.  In  the  year  1885  he  visited  Leongatiia  and  con- 
duct^l  service  in  the  home  of  Mr.  Jacob  Thomas,  of  "Lyre-bird  Mound." 
Here  he  met  a  few  representatives  from  all  round  the  district.  Mr.  Williams, 
Senr..  of  Buninyong,  had  promised  genei-ous  sup]M)rt.  On  his  retuin  he 
Adsited  Baliarat  and  intervicAved  James  Suiith  (later  the  Kev.  J.  Smith,  of 
North  Melbourne)  and  asked  him  to  become  the  pioneer  missionary  of  ihat 
part  of  Gippsland  betAveen  PooAvong  and  Foster.  After  a  feAv  weeks  con- 
sideration. Mr.  Smith  consented  to  go.  It  needs  to  be  remembered  that  such 
places  as  Leongatha.  Jumbunna.  Koorooman,  etc..  Avere  not  then  on  the  map. 

In  the  month  of  December,  1886,  the  pioneer  missionary  set  nut  for  his 
new  field  of  labour.  After  training  it  to  Frankston  and  coaching  it  to  Has- 
tings', he  took  steamer  for  (xrillith's  Point  (now  San  liemo).  Al  that  pic- 
turesque Avatering  place  he  Avas  met  by  ^Nfr.  J.  Hamilton,  of  Leongatha.  with 
a  horse  for  the  missionary's  u.se.  Mr.  Hamilton  informed  Mr.  Smith  thai  he 
could  not  return  with  him  as  he  liad  to  go  on  to  Melhournc.  It  seemed  a 
risky  business  to  turn  a  new  chum  adrift  in  the  (Jippsland  forest  without  a 
guide.  A  plan  of  the  rotite  and  other  particulars  Avere  furnished,  and  the 
missionary,  Avell  mounted,  set  out  that  same  day  to  fiiul  Mr.  Kent"-^  home  iti 
the  vicinity  of  the  now  famous  coalfield.  Wonthaggi.  The  Kent  family  most 
hospitably  entertained  him  overnight.  Xe.xt  day  the  journey  was  compleied 
along  a  very  lonely  track.  "Lyre-bird  Mound"  being  reached  just  at  sundown, 
and  the  missionary  warmly  welcomed  by  .Messrs.  J.  and  ^^'.  ( ".  TlioniM-.  and 
the   members  of  theii"   families. 

Prior  to  the  adxent  (d"  the  missionary  it  had  bt'come  cusiomaiy  lor  :i  leu 
of  the  settlers  to  meet  in  some  of  the  homes  on  the  Sabbath  ami  read  and 
sing  together,  thtis  forming  the  nucleus  of  a  congregat  i<»n.  Inhere  wt-re  n«» 
public  buildings  of  any  description.  'I'he  homes  were  loiighly  built.  M.me 
of  --i)ai's.  ;ui'l  (itliei's  of  piilings.  TIk  |i;ir-oiiai^e  \.;i-  a  -lo'ili  Ion  jnil, 
lined  with  hessinn.  On  the  first  Sunday  afb'r  the  missionary's  arrival  he 
pi'eached  to  a  congiegat  ion  of  sexenteen  in  Mr.  rFacob  'I'homas"  home.  Tiie 
service  and  singing  was  most  hearty.  InMu<'<lialely  he  set  to  work  to  find  out 
his  future  parishioners.  'I'his  was  no  light  task,  involving  many' hard-hips. 
The  tracks  were  dillicult  to  negotiate.  It  used  to  lain  in  those  days,  not  a 
paltry  two  oi-  three  inches.  Imt  several  feet  (d'  rain.  \\\  ordinary  shower 
AVijuld  last  about  three  weeks.  Swtdleii  rivci's  and  blind  creeks  were  m<>l 
eA-erVAvhere.  To  find  the  seltiers  was  exceedingly  dillicult.  'I'liev  entered 
South  Ciippslaiid  by  diU'ereiit  loiites.  some  coming  by  the  coast,  others  by  way 
of  Drouin.  olhei-s  by  way  (d'  Miibo(»  X»»rth.  "A\'hi(elavv's  Track,  and 
McDonald's  Track"  were  much  spoken  of  and  nuicli  used  in  those  days.  These 
Avere  the  "tracks"  opened  up  by  the  (Joverinnent.  There  were  many  c(»mpen- 
satioii^.  li<)\v<'V(  v.  for  jilj  classes  and  creeds  vied  with  one  anolbcr  in  bidding 
him    welcome. 

Over   fifty   mile>-   s((nare  (d'   territory   was   |)ractically    nne.\pl<»red    by   ;iny 
chui'ch.      Poow()nL^  A^'arrairnl.  >btrwc||  :ind    Marram   hail  clergymen  stationed 


400  THE     METHODIST    CHURCH    IN    SOUTH    GIPPSLAND. 

in  their  midst.  The  honour  of  first  establishing  and  sustaining  reguhir  reli- 
gious services  belongs  to  the  Methodist  Church.  One  of  the  first  plans,  dated 
18S7.  contains  the  names  of  the  following  places  Avhere  services  were  regu- 
larly conducted: — Leongatha.  Jnnibunna  East.  Korumburra.  Koorooman, 
Tarwin.  "\^'aratah  Bay,  Nation's  and  Xewt(m"s.  Later  ^Slirboo  North  and 
'•Dodd's,"  Mirboo  South,  were  added.  The  lay  helpers  associated  Avith  the 
missitmary  in  covering  this  wide  field  were  W.  J.  Williams.  AV.  C.  Thomas, 
J.  Hamilton.  M.  Allison,  J.  Thomas.  —  Dyson,  and  H.  Medew.  Occasionally 
Mr.  (t.  Dibdin,  of  Melbourne,  rendered  valuable  assistance.  When  one  re- 
members the  difficulty  of  travel,  one  can  appr-eciate  the  loyal  help  of  such 
?ons  of  the  Church.  The  need  of  suitable  buildings  was  soon  felt.  The  con- 
gregations outgrew  their  homes.  The  following  homes  had  services  conducted 
in  them: — Leongatha.  Mr.  J.  Thomas":  Jumbunna,  INIcLeod's,  Rainbow's,  and 
W.  J.  Williams':  Koruml)urra.  Brydon's  and  Xewton's;  Koorooman.  Creigh- 
ton's  and  Allison's;  Tarwin.  Turpin's  and  Wydel's;  Anderson's  Inlet.  Kidd's; 
Waratah  Bay,  vSkelton's:  Mirboo  .^outh.  Dodd's:  Mirl)o(>  Xorth.  Hall's. 

In  1887  a  move  in  the  ei.vctiou  of  a  church  building  was  made 
at  a  meeting  at  Mr.  John  BrvdonV  home,  known  as  ''Glen tress/'  in  what 
is  now  the  Kardella  district.  The  site  chosen  Avas  on  the  property  of  Mr. 
George  Lancey,  Avho  gave  a  quarter  of  an  acre  of  land.  A  working  bee  felled 
the  trees  and  cleared  the  ground.  Arrangements  Avere  made  to  get  sawn 
timber  from  a  mill  bej^ond  PooAvong.  close  to  Drouin.  Mr.  T.  Lancey.  Avith 
his  bullock  team,  undertook  the  carting,  and  it  Avould  be  interesting  to  knoAv 
hoAv  many  times  he  had  to  load  and  unload  thi'ough  being  bogged. 

As  soon  as  the  timber  Avas  on  the  ground  the  '"Bee"  got  to  work  under 
the  supervision  of  Mr.  Brydon,  and  Avlien  the  date  advertised  for  the  opening 
A\'as  reached  the  building  was  ready.  Xot  a  penny  Avas  expended  on  labour. 
The  opening  services  were  preached  by  the  Kev.  C.  AngAvin,  of  Poowcmg,  to 
large  congregations.  On  the  Monday  there  Avas  a  social  and  entertainment 
pre.sided  OA-er  by  Jacob  Thomas,  J. P..  of  Leongatha.  That  event  will  live 
long  in  the  memory  of  all  Avho  Avere  privileged  to  attend.  It  ay  as  a  pro- 
nounced success'.  The  homes  of  the  TAvyfords.  Westerns.  XcAvtons.  Fidges. 
Lanceys.  and  others  Avere  fully  taxed  acconnnodaring  the  visitors.  In  Xovem- 
ber  of  the  same  year,  1887.  another  church  erection  Avas  decided  on.  As  in  the 
former  case  a  "bee"  got  to  work  and  cleared  the  ground.  The  material  c;ime 
by  boat  from  Melbourne  to  Anderson's  Inlet,  and  Mr.  ^y.  C.  Thomas  very 
generously  carted  it  to  the  site,  Avhich  Avas  on  his  father's  i)i()i)erty.  "Lyre- 
bird Mound,"  near  the  present  site  of  KoouAvarra,  to  which  toAiii.ship  the 
church  Avas  afterAvards  remoA-ed  Avhen  the  raihvay  came  through.  Tiiis  cinireh 
also  Avas  erected  by  the  people  without  u  penny  being  expended  on  labour. 
The  opening  services  Avere  preiu-hed  by  that  large-hearted  man.  the 
Rev.  E.  S.  Bickford.  The  church  Avas  crowded  at  each  .service. 
For  the  next  day  there  Avas  a  very  full  progrannne.  Thev  had 
planned  for  a  picnic,  sale  of  gifts,  a  tea  and  public  meetinii'.  What  a 
croAvd  gathered.  The  Avhole  forest  seemed  to  be  centred  in  one  si)ot. 
The  Hon.  F.  Longmore  came  over  from  the  TarAvin  to  preside  at  the  public 
meeting.  There  were  no  "Melbas"  in  song  present,  but  there  Avas  some  o-o^d 
singing  by  the  choir  and  by  visitors,  and  some  excellent  speeches.  Tliere 
was  no  catching  of  last  train  or  tram  or  coach  or  even  horse.  To  move 
through  that  forest  at  night  Avas  Avell  nigh  imjjossible:  it  Avas  certaiidy  very 
dangerous.  What  to  do  Avith  the  people  after  the  usual  closino-  liour  wa-  the 
difficulty.  There  Avas  not  sufficient  accommodation  for  one  half  of  them. 
To  get   over  the  difficuhy   it   Avas  decided   to  keep   goino-  till    davlidit.        A 


THE     >,iETHOUIST    CHURCH     IX    SOUTH    GIPPSLAXD.  401 

programme  was  soon  provided  and  kept  al  least  some  awake  until  early  nu'in. 
It  should  be  stated  that  in  one  hcmse  the  ladies  went  to  bed  in  relays,  l-'rom 
every  point  of  view  this  church  ()i)enin*>'  was  a  great  success. 

Thus  the  work  grew  and  nnich  space  could  be  taken  up  in  chronicliuir 
such  events.  From  unexpected  (piarters  there  came  retpiests  for  religiou>  ser 
vices.  A  letter  appeared  in  a  Mirboo  paper,  headed  "sadly  neglected."  It 
was  an  appeal  to  the  Methodist  Church  to  give  some  attention  to  the  spiritual 
needs  of  the  Mirboo  South  residents.  The  pioneer  missionary  was  soon  on 
the  spot,  and  soon  a  success'ful  ser\  ice  was  established  in  the  home  of  Mr. 
Frank  Dodd. 

The  work  soon  became  too  much  for  one  man  to  .Niipervi.-e.  Anotlier 
agent,  Mr.  Statford  by  name,  was  sent  to  take  over  the  Koruml)urra  end.  lie 
proved  himself  a  capable  man.  He  was  ably  assisted  by  Mr.  .1.  Western.  Mr. 
•Shepherd.  Mr.  AA\  Twyford  and  others.  Mirboo  North  was  then  made  a 
separate  station,  with  a  missionary  in  charge.  The  greatest  drawliack  in 
the  early  days  were  the  well  nigh  impassable  i)ack-tracks  in  (he  long  winter 
montlis.  The  reader  will  better  uiulerstand  this  when  it  is  on  record  tliat 
the  pioneer  missionary  took  nine  hours  in  the  saddle  in  retm-ning  fi-om  one 
of  his  appointments,  a  distance  of  '25  miles.  For  a  time  he  had  three  saddle 
horses,  and  in  additi(m  had  frequently  to  borrow  others.  There  were  many 
compensations,  such  as  the  kind  hospitality  extended,  the  willingne-^  to  help, 
and  the  marked  progress  in  every  way.  Many  of  the  laymen  gave  much 
valuable  time  to  church  alfairs.  As  a  rtde  it  took  i)relty  well  thi-i'c  (h»y-  i'oi- 
the  (luarterly  meetings  of  tlie  circuit.  They  were  hehl  at  dill'erent  places 
each  time.  They  were  times  of  gieat  >i)iritual  uplift  and  brotherly  inter- 
course. Some,  prior  to  taking  up  their  abode  in  (Jipp^laud.  were  associated 
with  other  communions,  but  right  loyally  tlid  they  suppoit  (he  pioneer  Mt'tho- 
dist  missionary.  Those  were  not  the  days  of  "isms."  Thai  day.  iiiiroriiinaicly 
for  the  Kingdom  of  Christ,  has  come  since.  Churclu's.  many  and  varied, 
abound  now.  Only  in  one  ])lace  has  tiie  spirit  of  unity  been  niaintaineil. 
namely,  at  Arawatta.  on  what  wa>  known  in  the  early  days  as  the  '"twu  chMin 
road." 

Such,  in  some  measure,  is  the  hisiory  of  the  beginnings  tit"  llic  I'mncer 
Chiircji  in  South  ( Hpjtsland. 


Church  of   England. 

MR.  W.  H.  C.  HOLMES. 

The  early  history  of  the  Church  of  EnulaMd  in  this  di.strict  centres  in 
the  PooAvong  district,  the  first  service  being  lield  by  tire  Kev.  Fiirlonge  on 
December  15.  1878,  in  a  building  erected  for  school  and  church  purposes,  and 
which  is  now  part  of  the  Wesleyan  Chnrcli.  Occasionally  Church  of  England 
services  Avere  afterwards  conducted  in  this  building,  and  also  at  the  re.sidence 
of  Mrs.  Horsley  and  at  Mr.  L.  C  Holmes'  store,  the  ])reachers  coming  from 
Grantville.  Lang  Lang,  and  Cranbourne.  On  May  30.  ISSO.  ]Mr.  Gunson  offi- 
ciated, and  on  December  14.  1880.  the  Kev.  AValker  hehl  a  service  at  the  store 
and  baptised  a  number  of  children.  Rev.  H.  Potter,  of  (irantville,  was  en- 
trusted with  the  establishment  of  tjie  Church  of  England  in  the  Poow(mg  dis- 
trict, and  conducted  s'ervice  at  Mrs.  Horsley 's  on  February  IS,  1881.  He  was 
then  a  grey-haired  veteran,  and  one  cannot  review  the  first  decade  of  the 
Church  of  England  history  in  South  Gippsland  without  paying  a  tribute  to 
the  great  zeal  and  energy  displayed  by  him  in  opening  up  a  district  so  remote 
from  his  own,  and  whose  only  means  of  communication  were  the  roughest 
pack-tracks.  In  1881.  owing  to  communication  being  opened  up  with  Drouin, 
the  charge  of  the  Poowong  Church  of  England  was  transferred  to  the  Rev. 
Sandiford.  of  Warragul. 

There  were  a  number  of  families  settled  on  their  bush  holdings  in  the 
area  between  Bena  and  McDonald's  Track,  who  Avere  too  far  distant  from 
Poowong  to  attend  service  there.  Mrs.  Mattiiews.  of  Llandaff  Glen,  offered 
her  residence,  and  the  Rev.  Potter,  and  afterAvards  the  Rev.  Walker,  availed 
themselves  of  the  opportunity  to  minister  to  these  families  on  the  outer  verge 
of  settlement.  Mrs.  MattheAvs  took  an  active  interest  in  establishing  regular 
services,  and  eventually,  Avith  the  assistance  of  neighboui's,  prominent  among 
Tvhom  were  Messrs.  W.  Langham.  Coverdale  Bros..  JSlatthews  Bros,  and  San- 
ders, a  small  church  Avas  erected,  almost  wholly  of  bush  material,  by  Mr. 
Henry  Eccles,  on  the  property  of  Mr.  Theo.  Matthews.  Archdeacon  Lang- 
icA'  opened  the  church  about  the  year  1883,  and  regular  services  were  main- 
tained for  many  years  by  the  Rca-s.  Sparling,  Secomb,  AA^alker  and  Wiltshire 
from  the  PooAvong  centre.  The  building  Avas  destroyed  during  the  bushfires 
of  1898,  and  as  churches  had  been  established  at  other  centres  near  at  hand, 
it  was  not  considered  necessary  to  re-erect   it. 

The  first  Church  of  England  minister  to  reside  in  PooAvong  Avas  the  Rev. 
Sparling.  He  and  Mr.  Secomb.  Avho  folloAved  him.  conducted  services  in  the 
Poowong  Methodist  Chiu'ch.  In  1884  the  present  Church  of  England  at 
Poowong  Avas  built,  and  Avas  for  that  time  a  buildino-  of  consideralTIe  jireten- 
sion.  The  Rev.  Dr.  Moorhouse  opened  it  on  July  11,  1884.  The  roads  were 
A'ery  Ijad,  and  a  breakdown  of  the  Drouin  coach  necessitated  the  bisho]).  as 
well  as  the  other  passengei's.  travelling  j^ortion  of  tlie  journey  on  foot. 

In  1885  the  committee  decided,  when  having  the  church  painted,  to  re- 
move the  crosses  at  each  end  of  the  gable  by  cutting  them  otf  a  foot  above 
the  roof.  The  Rev.  Sandiford.  hearing  of  the  decision,  cautioned  the  painter 
against  interfering  with  ihe  crosses  Avithout  the  jiermission  of  the  bishop,  as 
it  was  an  indictable  offence,  and  he  might  be  ai)prehended  for  sacrilege. 
Needless  to  sav,  there  Avas  no  indictment,  and   the  crosses  remained  intact. 


CHURCH    OF    ENGLAND.  4o:{ 

During  Febriuirv.  1886.  Bislio])  Mooihouse  again  cundiicleil  --erxict'  in  ihe 
church.  He  Ava;?  deeply  interested  in  the  hush  missionary  work  of  his  ehuivh. 
and  showed  his  eminent  ability  in  selecting  a  suitable  man.  by  appointing 
Mr.  A.  A.  AViltshire  to  Poowong.  He  Avas  young,  and  had  just  that  bright, 
cheery  and  hopeful  disposition  that  was  no  necessary  to  hearten  antl  encour- 
age the  early  settlers,  who  had  so  much  to  contend  with  in  their  new  venture. 
The  interminable  mud  for  so  hmg  a  period  of  the  year  restricted  the  social 
life  Avithin  Aery  narroAA-  limits,  particularly  for  Avomen.  Thus  the  weekly  or 
fortnighth'  A'isits  of  the  missionary  AAcre  "oases  in  an  arid  desert."  During 
the  five  or  six  years  of  his  pastoral  Avork  among  the  early  setth'rs.  it  is  not 
surprising  that  he  endeared  himself,  not  oidy  to  the  members  of  his  own  con- 
gregation, but  also  to  those  of  other  denominations.  During  the  eai-liei-  years 
of  the  PooAvong  Church  of  England.  ]Mrs.  Chas.  Cook  and  .Mrs.  Cha>.  Mair 
for  man}^  years  rendered  valuable  services  as  organists. 

On  January  1st.  1888.  Mr.  Wiltshire  opened  services  ai  a  small  Ixish 
school  at  Jeetho.  not  far  from  the  site  of  the  present  State  schooL  .V  ri«ling 
party  of  24  Aisitors  from  PooAvong  assisted  at  the  service.  lie  was  also  (ho 
Church  of  England  pioneer  in  the  Arawata  and  Kardella  district,  then  known 
as  Korumburra.  holding  services  at  Mr.  Thos.  l\oAve"s.  and  at  Mr.  Dnnean 
Clerk's.  At  the  latter  place  there  Avas  no  organ,  and  an  accordion  was  used 
as  a  substitute.  ]Mrs.  Clerk,  and  occasionally  Mr.  James  Cornall.  oHiciating. 

Services  Avere  also  established  in  the  Jnmbunna  district,  where  Mr.  \\  dt- 
s'hire  Avas  greatly  assisted,  as  Avell  as  at  PooAvong  and  Jeetho.  by  .Messrs.  E. 
K.  Herring  and  ^I.  McLeod.  two  of  the  pioneers.  Avho  lillcd  many  appoint- 
ments Avhich  Avoiild  otherAvise  have  lapsed.  Mr.  (leo.  Lloyd,  the  lirst  mar- 
ried minister  in  the  district,  succeeded  Mr.  Wiltshire  about  bsss.  after  acting 
as  his  assistant.  Mr.  Wiltshire  was  afterwards  transferred  to  Enroa.  where 
he  met  an  tnitimely  death  through  falling  over  a  dill.  His  two  sons.  Colonel 
A.  R.  L.  Wiltshire.  D.S.O..  Croix  de  (bierri-.  and  C.M.d..  uid  i'.ieiiienant 
John  Wiltshire.  M.C..  both  of  the  Australian  Iniperinl  P'orces.  scrxed  ilieir 
counti-y  with  consi)iciioiis  hiaxci-y  in  the  (Jreat  W'av.  :i-  did  iiinny  anoiher  son 
of  the  old  pioneers. 

Disho})  (roe  preached  at  Poowong  for  the  lirst  lime  on  .Miirch  •_'iid.  ISSS. 
and  again  on  February  12th.  1n!>().  The  Rev.  Walker,  who  lollowcd  Mr. 
Lloyd,  started  .services  in  the  Arawata  Hall  on  May  Itli.  ls!»(i.  r.isho|>  (ioe, 
accom])anied  by  Mis.  (roe.  \isi(ed  Aniwala.  and  lield  :i  baptismal  ;iiid  conlir- 
mation  service  on  April  (>th,  1N!>1.     .Mi'.  W'ldkei    was  succeeded  hy  .Mr.  Koach. 

A\'hen  Korumbuira  was  established,  it  hecauie  the  centre  l'<ir  this  part  of 
Gipi)sland.  Mr.  Elvery  was  tlie  lirst  Chur.li  <d'  England  minisler.  followed 
by  Mr.  North.  Services  were  held  (iisl  at  .Mr.  (iiiy's  home,  and  later  m  Mr. 
Shepherd's  galvanised  iron  store.  Ilishop  (Joe  preached  on  one  occasion  to 
a  congregation  of  about  20  ladies  and  Messrs.  Jas.  Cornall  and  'I'hos.  (biy. 
This  attendance  throws  some  light  on  the  church-going  luduls  of  the  da-s  of 
men  engaged  in  the  clearing  and  construction  of  Ihe  railway.  'I'here  were 
numerous  cami)s.  and  (hey  compi-ised  the  great   majority  of  the  popul.il  ion  at 

that  time.      From  Mr.  Shephei'd's  sloic  the  scr\  ices  were  rcmoxcd  to  ll Id 

Mechanics"  Institute.     \\'hen   Mr.   Noiih   was  ap|)oin(ed.  .\ichd on   Laiigley 

|)reached  in  the  Arawata  Hall  on  Deceiuber  iTth.  b^'.>:'),  and  on  many  oc.-a- 
sions  lie  and  Archdciicon  Armstrong  ollicialed  in  Ihe  I'oowong  church. 

One  of  the  most  imp(»rtant  evenls  in  the  more  modern  hislor.v  ol  the 
Church  of  England  was  the  appoindneiit  (»f  the  Ke\.  \\'.  I).  \'.  I^•ld  to 
Korumburra.  where  h«'  came  with  a  high  repiilation.  which  he  sustaini'd  for 
the  11  vears  duriiii:-  winch  he  remained  there.  In  his  work  at  Korumbuira 
he  was  ablv  assisted  bv  Messrs.  James  Cornall.    iJ.  S.  I'..  Voiin^.  U.  (i.  Shegog, 


404  CHURCH    OF    ENGLAND. 

A.  P.  Lloyd.  Thos.  (Juy,  G.  AV.  Mitchell,  and  Mrs.  Duncan  Clerk.  On  one 
occasion,  while  riding  to  a  service  at  Outtrim,  his  horse  fell,  and  being  a  man 
of  considerable  weight  he  received  a  severe  shaking,  and  for  a  considerable 
time  afterwards  he  walked  the  seven  miles  to  and  from  Onttrim  to  keep  his 
appointniout^. 

Church  of  England  services  were  tirst  established  in  the  Outtrim 
district  in  a  log  hut,  on  ^Ir.  A.  \A'.  Elms'  farm,  some  four  or  five 
families  comprising  the  congregation.  On  one  occasion  an  unpleasant  sensa- 
tion was  caused  by  the  appearance  of  a  snake  during  the  service.  With  the 
development  of  the  coal  industry  and  the  formation  of  the  Outtrim  township, 
the  supporters  of  the  Church  of  England  became  more  numerous,  and  the 
local  committee  decided  to  erect  a  church.  Through  the  elforts  of  ^Ir.  Chas. 
Beard,  the  gift  of  a  block  of  land  was  obtained  at  a  land  sale  held  by  Messrs. 
J.  H.  Riley  and  AV.  L.  Baillieu,  and  on  this  land  a  very  nice  little  church 
was  erected,  and  before  long  entirely  cleared  of  debt. 

The  establishment  of  Church  of  England  services  at  Leonagtha  were 
largely  due  to  the  elforts  of  Mrs.  Mary  K.  Shingler.  who.  after  living  eight 
years  there,  with  only  one  opportunity  of  attending  an  English  Cliurch  ser- 
vice, wrote  early  in  1890  to  the  Bishoj)  of  Melbourne,  asking  if  a  clergyman 
was  available  for  the  district.  The  Bishop's  reply  Avas  "if  men  and  means 
were  forthcoming,  one  would  be  sent."  At  the  end  of  January  a  letter  came 
from  Yen.  Archdeacon  Langley,  saying  that  he  would  visit  I^eongatha  on 
February  25th,  and  hold  any  sei'vices  that  could  be  arranged.  On  that  day 
the  first  senace  wa.s  held  in  Mrs.  Shingle's  house,  which  :'0  people  attended. 
Communion  and  baptismal  services  were  lield  the  following  morning,  and  an 
evening  service  in  a  school  known  as  Crichton's.  about  two  miles  out  of  what 
is  now  Leongatha.  At  these  services  Archdeacon  Langley,  the  Kevs  H.  de 
Putron  Llitchcock.  and  C.  J.  Chambei-s,  of  Mirboo  Xoilh  and  Foster,  took 
part,  and  also  the  Rev.  W.  R.  Ehery,  who  was  afterAvards  the  first  resident 
reader.  Since  that  time  gradual  ach^ance  has  been  made  under  many  draw- 
backs, and  now  (1917)  there  is  a  wooden  church  (all  seats  free),  parish  hall, 
and  parsonage,  all  nearly  free  of  debt.  The  jjarish  has  laboured  under  the  dis- 
advantage of  many  changes  in  its  clergy  in  the  '2H  years  of  its  existence,  dur- 
ing which  time  there  have  \)een  ten.  To  single  out  any  one  for  special  promin- 
ence in  their  work  \Aould  be  difficult,  Init  to  the  pioneer.  Mr.  Elvery,  it  is  only 
his  due  to  say  that  few  would  do  the  work  he  did.  He  took  services  at  Poowong, 
Leongatha.  and  Inverloch  on  one  day,  and  at  Korumburra,  Leongatha  and 
AVaratah  on  another.  To  Bishop  Goe  and  Archdeacon  Langley  the  church 
owed  much  in  the  early  days  for  their  wi.se  counsel,  theii-  ministrations  often 
involving  long  journeys  through  miles  of  roadless  country  in  all  weather. 
To  the  Rev.  E.  S.  Xorth  we  are  indebted  for  the  first  missionary  work,  and 
the  name  of  Richard  de  Courcy  Sliaw  Avill  be  a  memory  of  gratitude  to  many 
parents'  as  the  devoted  head  of  the  Sunday  school  for  '2o  years. 

The  date  on  the  chalice  that  has  ahvays  been  in  use  in  this  parish  may  be 
an  item  of  interest  to  many  in  days  to  come.  It  was  given  by  her  son  in  1S06 
to  an  invalid  mother  in  England,  for  u.se  in  her  home.  The  communion  set 
was  completed  here  by  a  descendant.  Avho  is  a  parishioner,  and  presented  to 
the  church  in  memory  of  a  relatiAC. 

One  cannot  conclude  this  retrospect  without  speaking  in  the  highest  terms 
of  the  self-sacrificing  and  willing  co-operation  given,  often  at  a  great  sacri- 
fice of  time  and  energy,  by  lay  readers  in  various  parts  of  the  district  to  the 
ministers.  Avith  Avhom  they  Avere  associated,  in  })uilding  up  the  spiritual  and 
social  fabric.  Avhich  is  such  an  essential  ])art  of  the  life  of  a  people. 


The    Presbyterian    Church. 

MR.  A.  GILLAN. 

The  information  contained  in  this  .^keti-h  is  chicflv  (»l)taitie(l  from  ai'liile^ 
which  appeared  in  "The  Qnarterlv  Review."  jjublished  in  Korumlnirra.  from 
1005  to  1911.  and  edited  by  Mr.  (i.  H.  Murray. 

In  1888.  six  aUotment.s  in  the  Townsliip  of  Poowon^'  wort'  purchased  for 
a  manse  site  by  Mr.  James  Gibb.  M.J>,..\..  at  the  recjuest  of  Mi-s.  Fh»reiice 
Rebecca  "^^alhice-Dunlop.  who  took  an  active  interest  in  the  Pi-esliytt-riau 
canse  there,  and  had  collected  i'lU  towards  the  erection  of  a  manse.  Mr.  (iibli. 
^NFr.  David  Fenier.  and  ^Ir.  J.  K.  AA'alhice-Duidoi)  were  nominated  by  her  as 
trustees  of  the  site,  which,  aftei-  remainiuir  uiiiuii)r()ved  for  many  years,  was' 
transferi-ed  in  1007  to  the  Poowona"  conirreiiation.  ou  their  ajjfreeina"  to  pay 
£15  towards  the  manse  at  Loch,  ^^•hich  had  been  built  some  years  previously. 
Shortly  afterwards,  the  site  was  sold,  and  the  money  i-eali--i'd  t'oruu'd  the 
nucleus  of  a  manse  fund  at  Poowono-. 

To  Mr.  John  Reid.  of  St.  Helier,  is  chie  the  honour  of  iuitiatiui:'  liic  lir-t 
Presbyterian  Church  service  in  the  district.  As  a  result  of  corre.-pouilcuce 
respectino;  the  want  of  chnrch  services,  he  induced  th(>  Rev.  .1.  Caldwell,  of 
Morninirton.  to  hold  a  service  in  the  Jeetho  \\"est  School  on  Mariii  L'-'nd.  !^^5. 
A  connnittee  was  formed,  compi'isiua-  ]\ressrs.  W.  Cron  (chairman),  .biliii  Reid 
(secretary).  M.  Bowman  (treasurer).  R.  Ma<>ill  and  J.  R.  SlewaK.  and  al  llie 
first  meetinjr.  held  on  Ajiril  10th.  1SS5.  it  was  resohcd  to  estal>lish  Prt-lt\ 
terian  services  in  the  district.  The  Rev.  .lohn  Murdoch  was  sent  lo  take 
charge,  bnt  after  six  weeks  was  succeeded  by  the  Rev.  .John  'I'aylor.  who  left 
at  the  end  of  two  months,  and  the  Rev.  J.  W.  Little  took  his  ])laee.  lie  adiled 
Poowon<r  to  his  charjre.  and  held  the  first  Presbytei'ian  service  there  in  the 
State  School  (jn  October  18th,  1885.  .V  pi'ovisional  committee  was  lornied. 
consistin<r  of  Messi-s.  James  Scott.  T.  C  Scoti.  R.  (ireira.  .\.  Kennedy  (tiea 
surer).  A.  (Jillan  (secretary),  and  it  was  ananii'ed  to  hold  fortnightly  -<'i\  ice-. 
Later.  Messrs.  R.  ().  Timms  and  H.  Campbell  joined  (he  eommiltee.  wliiUt 
'^^r.  1).  McT:'\ish   was  a   warm  siipporlci'. 

In  1885  sei-vices  were  started  in  the  Leoniiatha  distiici  by  Mr.  Dunran. 
who  was  stationed  at  Mirboo  Xoi-th.  the  mission  centre  beiuL''  :i(  Traialiron. 
One  of  the  i)i-eachin<r  stations  was  at  the  residence  ol"  Mr.  R.  Sniitli.  Mardan 
AVest.  and  in  1888  the  district  of  Kooroomaii  was  include<i.  Later,  tin-  ter 
litorv  was  handed  ovei-  (o  the  care  of  the  South  >reIbourne  Presbvterv.  and 
Mr.  P)randi'ick'.  from  T'oowona'.  t<tok  chai-at*.  but  it  was  not  until  the  di\i-ion 
of  the  disti-iet  into  lw<>  cliara-e-  in  jsni.  when  Mr.  Law  took  the  portion  of 
the  Poowona  district  north  of  ihi'  iailwa\  liiw.  (hat  IIh-  work  wa-  taken  up 
reffularly. 

Poowon^'  was.  in  the  earl\  <la\-.  ihe  I'cntre  from  wliich  a  iiihuImt  of 
in-eachina  stations  were  established.  Mr.  .1.  Ti.  Stewart,  of  Kouirwak.  writes: 
—"The  district  was  a  larir*'  and  sca<tere(l  onr.  and  under  a  siuLdc  missionary. 
This  necessitated  a  areat  amount  of  su|)t)lv  work  by  lavmen.  In  -ucli  work 
Mi-,  a.  Cillan  was  alwavs  to  the  front,  ridinir  irreat  distance-  from  his  home 
Jo  conduct  .services,  and  has  been  styled  'The  father  of  (he  Presbyterian 
Church   in  South  dippsland.' "' 


40ti  THE     PRESBYTERIAN    CHURCH. 

In  1S8()  services  were  started  at  Poowono-  East.  Mr.  K.  Heiirv  being"  sec- 
retary, ami  in  K(>riinil)urra  the  first  service  was  held  by  the  Kev.  ,7.  E.  Armour 
ill  1S87.  Ill  1889  services  were  begun  at  Loch.  Mr.  C  8.  Bigelow  being  secre- 
taiy.  and  in  1890  Bena  was  occupied,  Mr.  R.  J.  Fuller  acting  as  secretary. 
In  the  same  year  services  were  started  at  Arawatta.  and  at  Crichton's  Hall, 
]\Iessrs.  John  Bell  and  ]\J.  Allison  being  the  respective  secretaries.  In  con- 
nection with  the  church  at  AraAvatta.  which  is  used  by  Presbyterians  and 
Methodists  alternately.  Mr.  John  Ritchie  started  a  Union  Sabbath  School, 
attended  by  children  of  both  denominations.  In  1889  services  were  com- 
menced at  Longwarry  East.  Mr.  James  Aikman  lieing  secretary,  and  other 
helpers  were  Messrs.  John  Brock  and  Thos.  Hallyburton.  FairbanTv  was  also 
started  as  a  preaching  station  in  the  same  year.  Mr.  A.  McXaughton  ])eing 
secretary,  with  Messrs.  A.  McLennan.  ^Mitchell  and  Black  as  members  of  com- 
mittee. In  1892  services  were  started  at  Strzelecki.  Mr.  F'.  Raven  being  sec- 
retary, while  other  helpers  were  Messrs.  Munro.  Kelly.  Claney.  McRafe, 
Mcintosh.  Adkins,  and  Ross. 

After  Mr.  Little's  departure,  several  missionaries  worked  with  varying 
success  until  the  appointment  in  1889  of  Mr.  Brandrick.  who.  although  up- 
wards of  60  years  of  age.  was  a  most  energetic  worker.  He  was  tlie  tirst  to 
establish  the  Federal  C'ommittee.  consisting  of  one  or  more  delegates  from 
each  preaching  station.  The  first  meeting  was  held  at  Loch,  when  the  build- 
ing of  a  manse  w-as  one  of  the  matters  considered.  In  the  beginning  of  1891 
the  district  was  divided.  Mr.  Brandrick  taking  the  district  South  of  the  rail- 
way line,  while  Mr.  Edgar  Law.  a  young  student,  took  charge  on  the  Xorth 
side. 

A  church  costing  £250  was  erected  at  Poowong.  on  a  site  purchased  from 
Mrs.  Horsley.  and  opened  on  July  2Tth.  1890.  by  ^Ir.  Brandrick.  the  original 
trustees  being  Messrs.  James  Scott.  A.  (xillan.  Hugh  Campbell.  R.  O.  Timms. 
and  R.  Grege:. 


-!^t-" 


In  1893.  Korumburra  was  made  the  centre  of  a  ministerial  charge,  and 
the  Rev.  J.  G.  Davies  ap))ointed.  He  describes  his  first  experiences  as  fol- 
lows:— 'Tn  1893.  there  was  a  large  influx  of  ])opulation  to  Korumburra  and 
the  surrounding  district.  The  coal  mines  vrere  being  opened  out.  tlie  railway 
to  Jumbunna  and  Outtrim  was  in  course  of  construction,  and  much  work  in 
clearing  land  and  road-making  Avas  in  progress:  so.  it  seemed  to  the  Home 
]\fission  Committee  of  the  Presbyterian  Church  of  Victoria  that  the  time  had 
come  to  send  a  minister  to  the  district.  Mr.  Edgar  Law.  home  mis'sionary, 
from  Poowong,  held  services  occasionally  in  the  ^lechanicv"  Institute,  then 
on  the  Xorth  side  of  the  railway  line,  and  I  was  asked  to  go  ro  Korumburra 
Avith  the  object  of  forming  a  charge  there.  Accordingly  I  arrived  in  Korum- 
burra in  pouring  rain  on  May  2Tth,  1893.  and  found  Mr.  Wm.  Henderson 
waiting  to  meet  me.  Mr.  (xeo.  Matheson.  of  ^Sloyarra.  Avas  also  at  the  station, 
and  told  me  I  Avas  to  ride  out  Avith  him  on  a  horse  he  had  brought  in  for  me. 
and  conduct  service  the  folloAving  morning.  The  service  Avas  held  at  Moyarra 
in  a  log  schoolhouse.  and  Mr.  G.  Beard.  Mr.  Geo.  Matheson,  and  Mr.  Jos. 
RainboA\'  composed  the  congregation.  In  the  evening  service  Avas  held  in 
Korumburra  in  a  large  unlined  and  ill-lighted  hall,  the  attendance  being  three 
men.  one  Avoman.  and  three  children.  This  Avas  not  a  bright  beginning,  but 
it  was  known  that  there  were  staunch  and  loyal  Presbyterians  (m  nianv  of  the 
surrounding  farms  ready  to  give  a  hearty  wekome  and  generous  sni)p()rt  to  a 
minister  of  their  own  church." 


THE     PRESBYTERIAN    CHURCH.  407 

The  preachinir  jilaces  were  now  under  the  cni-e  of  Mr.  Da  vies  until  IDOO, 
when  it  Avas  considered  that  soniethino;  more  shoukl  be  done  at  Leonjratha.  so 
Mr.  James  Forbes  was  appointed  to  the  mission  there,  with  Mt.  Eecles  and 
Ben-y"s  Creek  ms  out-stations.  in  UKIl  the  Kov.  II.  C.  Matthew  was  ap- 
pointed, and  in  tlie  same  yea^''  hind  was  bought  for  a  church  and  manse 
site,  and  a  churcli  t)uilt  and  opened  by  the  Rev.  Professor  McDonahl  the  same 
year. 

In  Korumburra  everytliin";  had  to  be  done.  There  was  no  church. 
manse.  Sabbatli  School,  or  oriranisation  of  any  kind.  A  couunittee  represent- 
ing all  parts  of  the  charge  was  formed,  and  it  was  decided  to  buihl  a  manse. 
A  house,  costing  £-?50.  was  built,  and  in  it  the  Sabbath  School  was  started  in 
April.  1894.  The  services  were  held  in  a  hall  situated  on  hind  in  the  railway 
reserve.  whicIT  had  been  j^urchased  and  fitted  uj)  for  a  church.  The  congi'<'ga- 
tion  increased,  and  later,  througli  Mr.  .1.  K.  Munro.  the  j^resent  excellent  >iie 
was  purchased  for  £:210.  and  a  church  erected  at  a  cost  of  about  ^400.  The 
building  was  oj)ened  on  December  '2nd.  1900,  and  subse(]uently  the  origir>al 
manse  Avas  sold,  and  a  new  one  built  on  the  church  site.  Mr.  A.  H.  Tliomson 
rendered  valuable  service  as  head  of  the  Sabbath  School  and  clioii-master.  in<l 
wa.s  succeeded  in  the  latter  capacity  by  Mr.  James  Burnet. 

Besides  Korumljurra  and  ^loyarra.  Mr.  Davies.  with  the  a.ssistance  of 
Mr.  I^aw.  conducted  services  at  Koorooman.  Fairbank.  Arawntta.  and  Kuby. 
and  Kardella  was  soon  added  to  the  list  of  stations.  Mr.  Matthew  Allison 
took  services  fre(|uently.  and  by  his  aid  i)reaching  was  maintained  in  these 
se\'en  preaching  stati(ms.  ^Messrs.  John  and  Ste])heii  IJitchic.  of  Arawatta, 
and  Mr.  David  Munro.  of  Strzeleclci.  also  ga\-e  \aluable  assistance  to  ilic 
minister  in  his  pioneering  work. 

Tn  the  district  South  of  Koruuibui'ra.  services  wei'e  first  started  at 
^loyarra.  where  a  chui'ch  was  opened  in  Jidy.  i(S98.  Messrs.  (i.  Matheson  and 
Rainixtw  Bros,  taking  an  active  interest  in  tlie  work.  It  was  burned  down  in 
the  great  fire  of  isils.  and  a  new  building  was  erected  at  Kongwak.  on  a  site 
given  by  Mr.  W.  J.  William>.  Whilst  the  church  is  Presbyterian,  there  is  an 
arrangement  that  the  ^Methodists  shall  Inne  the  use  of  the  building  for  wor- 
ship every  alternate  Sabl)ath.  Mr.  ^^'illianls  has  been  superintendent  of  the 
Sab])ath  School,  which  is  attended  li\    cliildicn  of  dilferent  denomination-. 

At  Outtrini.  ser\ices  wei'e  first  held  in  the  Methodist  church.  In  I'-'Ol' 
a  block'  of  land  was  secure(I.  and  on  .Mai'di  Nt.  I'.M).",.  a  chiu'ch.  which  co>t 
£540.  including  furnishing.  \\a-  oikmkmI  liy  i  he  Kew  .\.  Alwyn  Kwan.  and  a 
Saljbath  School  was  stai'ted  under  the  supfi'inlendencc  <d'  Mr.  \\'.  II.  A\'altcrs. 
The  first  board  of  management  consisted  of  Messis.  d.  Browrdee^.  dames 
Johnston.  Donald  .M(d.eo,'|.  D.  { '.  M(Ken/ic.  J.  McAllan.  John  Kohb.  .Vle.x. 
Thomson,  A.  R.  Tidloch.  K.  \.  Whceiei',  W .  II.  \\'alters.  W.  L.  Kicliards..n 
(secretary),  K.  (Jillespie  (treasurer).  Arrangemenis  were  M)ade  to  form 
Outti-im.  Kongwak.  and  .MoVaria  uito  a  ndssion  <'harge.  of  which  Mr.  Carlton 
was  the  first  missionaiy. 

From  the  liltle  meeting  con\«'ned  by  Mr.  .lohn  IJeid.  upwards  of  .■><)  years 
ago.  there  ha\e  been  established  two  regidar  cliargo.  K<»iumburra  and  Leon- 
gatha.  with  tlieii-  outside  stations,  and  lhi»'e  mission  charpres.  Outtrim.  P<io- 
wong.  and  Loch,  whicli  include  eleven  pleaching  ])laces.  I'hei'c  haxc  also 
been  built  three  manses  and  nine  churches:  and  so  the  I*re.->byteiian  (linrcli 
moves  stea<lily  and  sur(dy  on  its  way.  assisting  in  the  great  and  good  wurk- 
done  by  all  denominations  thronghoiit  this  part  of  South  (iippsland. 


The  Infancy  and  Progress  of  the  Catholic  Church 
in    Korumburra. 

MR.  E.  F.  WILLIAMSON. 

01(1  as  Christianity  itself,  yet  ever  young  and  expsinding.  the  Catholic 
Church  follows  whither  her  children  may  roam,  and  among  the  sturdy  re- 
sourceful pioneers  who  ventured  to  carve  out  homes  in  the  heart  of  what  was 
then  a  primeval  forest,  in  a  great  measure  unexplored  by  civilised  man,  were 
members  of  the  Catholic  fold.  Few  in  number,  and  widely  scattered  as  they 
were,  for  some  time  no  concerted  ell'ort  was  made  to  have  a  Catholic  mission 
permanently  established. 

AVitli  the  advent  of  the  railway  and  the  birth  of  Korumburra  came  a 
considerable  influx  of  population,  and  among  tho.se  attracted  by  the  glowing 
promise  of  the  new-l^orn  township  were  many  Catholics,  some  of  Avhom  took 
a  prominent  part  in  the  pioneering  work  of  the  Church  mission  in  Korum- 
burra. This  increase  soon  cAcntuated  in  a  movement  to  have  Mass  celebrated 
in  the  town,  and  so  it  happened  that  one  Sunday  morning.  al)out  twenty  wor- 
.shippers  reverently  knelt  in  prayer  on  the  landing  at  the  top  of  the  .stairway 
in  the  Korumburra  Hotel,  then  ncAvly  built  by  the  late  Mr.  A.  Eadovick,  and 
heard  Mass  celebrated  by  the  Rev.  Feather  O'Leary,  of  the  AVarragul  mission. 
For  some  time  regular  monthly  .services  were  held,  but  as  the  Catholic  popu- 
lation steadily  increa.sed.  the  limited  space  on  the  landing  became  inconveni- 
ently overcrowded,  so  arrangements  were  made  to  have  the  services  conducted 
in  the  newly-erected  Mechanics"  Institute,  which  then  stood,  not  in  its  ])re- 
sent  central  position,  but  among  the  timber  on  the  top  of  the  hill  in  Station 
Street. 

So  important  had  this  outpost  of  the  Church  noAv  become  that  fortnightly 
services  were  held.  Early  in  1S!)3  the  forward  movement  took  a  decided 
practical  turn.  On  Sunday.  January  l.Mh.  a  meeting  of  the  worshippers  was 
held.  Father  O'Leary.  of  Warragul.  presiding.  The  outcome  was  the  ap- 
pointment of  a  committee,  con.si.sting  of  Messrs.  A.  Radovick.  W.  Malone. 
O'Connor.  J.  M.  Gannon.  H.  Eccles,  senior,  P.  Fahey.  and  the  secretary,  E.  F. 
Williamson,  to  inspect  land  then  under  offer,  with  power  to  purchase  should 
it  be  deemed  suitable  for  Church  ])urposes.  The  seven  gentlemen  appointed 
Mere  the  active  spirits  in  the  pioneering  work  of  the  Church  in  Koi'umbuira. 
The  committee  .soon  found  that  the  selection  of  a  .suitable  site  was  no  easy 
matter.  What  were  considered  good  positions  had  already  been  alienated  by 
the  Crown.  Xegotiations  were  opened  with  a  private  OAvner,  and  after  some 
delay,  the  pre.s'ent  site  was  secured  in  July,  18f)4,  for  £100.  The  only  obstacle 
in  the  waj'  was  a  financial  one.  but  with  earnest  adherents  of  the  Church  at 
the  helm,  the  difficulty  wa.-  soon  surmoimted,  and  on  March  1st,  1895.  Mr. 
Bald's  tender  (£230  10s.)  for  the  erection  of  the  church  building  was  accepted. 
OAving  to  the  larger  portion  of  the  Townshi]:)  lieing  in  the  Arcluliocest^  of 
Melbourne.  Korumburra  early  in  1894  had  been  attached  to  the  Dandeiiong 
mission.  Father  Daly  being  the  Parish  priest. 

Sunday.  April  ^Sth.  180.5.  was  a  red  letter  day  among  the  Catholics  of 
the  district,  the  occasion  being  the  blessing-  and  consecration  of  tlie  Church 


CATHOLIC    CHURCH    IN    KORUMBURRA.  409 

as  a  place  of  divine  woi-b'iiip  by  Archbishop  Carr.  The  rapid  expansion  of 
the  mining,  dairying,  and  agricultural  industries  was  still  largely  Increasing 
the  population  not  only  of  tvoruniburra.  but  also  the  outlying  townships  of 
Loch.  Junil)iinna.  and  Oiittrini.  For  a  time  the  spiritual  wants  of  the 
Catholics  of  these  places  Avere  ministered  to  fi'om  Dandenong.  but  the  orga- 
nising and  administrative  ability  of  His  Grace.  Archbishop  Carr,  led  him 
to  form  a  new  Parish,  comprising  all  these  outposts  of  the  Church,  with 
Father  Keating  as  Parish  priest.  To  be  convinced  that  the  Catholic  Church 
in  this  favoured  and  bountiful  part  of  South  Gippsland  has  ever  moved  for- 
ward from  the  day  when  the  handful  of  Avorshippers  Imelt  on  the  staircase 
landing,  one  needs  but  look  around.  Three  churches,  a  convent  and  school, 
and  an  ornate  palatial  presbytery,  where  Father  Ralferty,  the  Parish  priest, 
welcomes  all.  and  dispenses  good  cheer,  are  ample  evidence. 


Impressions   of   Gippsland. 


MISS  M.  C.  JOHNSON. 


V 


Fair  fertile  land,  where  beauty  reigns  snpi-enie. 
The  artist  may  sojonrn  and  poet  dream, 
"Midst  picturesque  seclusion  here  alone. 
To  pay  their  homage  at  Queen  Nature's  throne, 
And  mark  her  varied  moods  as  she  appears. 
Like  some  fair  changeful  maid  of  tender  years — 
Gay  in  sweet  Spring,  in  Summer  grand  and  proud. 
Coy  in  fickle  Aiitumn.  in  tears  'neath  Winter's  cloud. 

I  fain  would  linger  in  .some  sainlit  glade. 

Or  wander  through  those  peaceful  aisles  of  shade. 

And  through  the  gullies  where  the  rippling  creek, 

"Midst  fern  and  bracken  plays  at  hide  and  seek. 

With  merry  sunbeams  as  it  winds  along 

"Till  lost  in  some  mysterious  billabong: 

Its  soothing  rhythm  falls'  upon  the  ear 

In  dulcet  cadence  ever  sweet  to  hear. 


I  love  to  climb  the  dark-browed  mountain  side. 
Where  broad-leaved  tree  ferns  flourish  in  their  pride. 
And  breathe  the  pure  exhilarating  air— 
The  precious  gift  of  Heaven's  diffusion  there. 
Whilst  lovely  scenes  viewed  from  that  lofty  crest. 
On  memory's  pages  deeply  are  impressed, 
The  distant  sea  tirrests  my  A\andering  gaze. 
In  dreamy  splendour  gleaming  through  the  haze. 


Tier  upon  tier  those  -^crub-clad  ranges  tower, 
Like  massive  ramparts  of  an  Unseen  Power; 
Each  peak  in  Alpine  grandeur  steep  and  high. 
^^Hiile  the  deep  gorges  in  the  .'-hadows  lie, 
A  thousand  sun-kis.sed  hills  of  emerald  hue, 
Rise  up  to  greet  the  sky  of  azure  blue. 
And  pleasant  homesteads  nestle  here  and  there 
On  fertile  slopes  amongst  the  foliage  fail-. 


IMPRESSIONS    OF    GIPPSLAND. 


411 


"(Juiiies   wlic'i(    till'   i-ippliiiu:   creek, 
.Midst     tVrii     :ii]il     hiackcii. 
I'hivs    .'il     liidc    and     s.^idc." 


Am()ii<>>5t  llie  hills  I  ti-ace  the  wiiidiiiii"  road, 
By  thriving;  townships — Indnstry's  abode — 
The  ii'on  monstei-  rushes  on  its  way 
Thi'oiiirh  rural  scenes  far  from  the  city  uay. 
Laden  with  dejxisit  from  (he  mine. 
Or  the  i-icli  ])i'oduc('  of  the  meek'-eyed  kiiie. 
And  bounteous  ])roduets  of  tlie  fruitful   soil 
Won  bv  the  sturdy  settlers  thrifty  toil. 


"Idiose  bhu'k-encd  tree  ti'Uuk->  uiark  the  liusli  lii'e's  course, 
Where  it  sAvept  on  with  its  resistless  force; 
liut  once  uioic  o'er  tliiil   de\astated  scene. 
lias  Xatui'e  ^i)i'ead   licr  robe  of  vei'durc  LH'een. 
A   forest  nfiant.  cruuiltlinii'  in  decay. 
'Midst  fern  and  mosses,  miiiirlinii"  with  the  clay, 
Tveminds  me  that  Avhen  life's  brief  tei'ui  is  o'er. 
All  doth  i'et\iiii  to  Mother  Earth  once  more. 


412  IMPRESSIONS     OF     GIPPSLAND. 

AVhen  o'er  the  landscape  shades  of  evening  creep. 
Then  to  tlieir  fore&'t  homes  the  bush  birds  sweep. 
To  chant  their  hymns  of  praise  from  some  sweet  bower. 
In  solemn  hush  of  Nature's  vesper  hour. 
As  myriad  stars  illume  the  vaidt  on  high. 
From  the  dim  distance  comes  the  mopoke's  cry; 
The  soft  moon  rises  o'er  the  eastern  range 
And  floods  the  earth  with  light  siibdued  and  strange. 

The  tall  dead  gums  fantastic  shadoAvs  cast. 

Like  giant  spectres  of  a  mystic  past. 

When  a  dark  race  roamed  these  vast  forests  through, 

To  hunt  the  'possum,  bear,  or  kangaroo. 

Or  in  the  moonlight  'neath  some  grand  old  tree, 

Assembled  for  their  wild  corrol)oree. 

Ere  mighty  progress,  with  his  axe  and  spade. 

Did  those  primeval  solitudes  invade. 

Victoria's  Eden !  Memory  hn-es  to  rove. 
Through  each  romantic  glen  and  sylvan  grove, 
Where  fragrant  shrubs  perfume  the  gentle  breeze, 
That  softly  sighs  and  murmurs  through  the  trees, 
There,  'midst  the  music  of  the  warbling  birds. 
The  soul  communes  in  thoughts  too  deep  for  words. 
Of  deep  humility  and  reA'erent  love, — 
With  Him  who  guards  Creation  from  above. 


The   Country    as  It    Is,   1918. 

MR.  P.  H.  WATKINSON. 

What  first  strikes  the  visitor  to  tiie  portion  of  South  (Tippshtiid  to  which 
this  book  of  pioneering  experiences  i-efers  is  the  large  number  of  straight  dry 
trees  of  varying  heights  that  constitute  so  prominent  a  feature  of  the  hind- 
scape  over  a  considerable  area.  The^^e  remains  of  foretime  monarclis  of  the 
forest  country  convey  to  the  person  Avho  sees  the  district  for  the  first  time 
some  faint  idea  of  the  work  performed  bj'  those  stout-hearted  pioneers  who, 
some  thirty  or  forty  years  ago,  settled  in  what  was  then  a  virgin  forest,  and, 
"with  so  much  labour  and  so  many  privations,  succeeded  in  overcoming  all 
difficulties,  and  turning  this  part  of  A'ictoria.  till  their  advent,  neglected,  into 
one  of  the  most  productive  districts  in  the  Commonwealth.  Tliese  relics  of 
the  past  are  gradually  disappearing:  but  some  years  must  yet  elapse  before 
this  not  unpleasing  feature  of  the  countryside  becomes  non-existent.  The 
hilly  nature  of  the  country  between  Xyora  and  Leongatha  also  adds  to  its 
pictures(|uenes&'.  One  great  advantage  that  is  enjoyed  in  Soutli  (xippsland 
— an  advantage  that  is  not  always  sufficient ly  appreciated — -is  its  c()i)iou.s 
rainfall.  Year  after  year,  when  the  j)astures  in  other  parts  of  the  State  are 
dry,  and  the  ground  baked  iiard.  the  grass  here  is  green  throughout  the 
Summer.  Anything  in  the  nature  of  a  drouglit  is  unknown:  seasons  ditfei-,  of 
course,  and  production  varies  cm  account  of  climatic  conditions',  but  the  rain- 
fall is  sure,  and  on  this  account  those  engaged  in  the  primary  industries  are 
not  subject  to  the  set-backs  whicli  (h'oughts  elsewhere  occasion.  There  are 
only  four  rivers  in  this  territory — the  liass.  PowU^t.  and  Tarwin  in  the  South, 
and  the  Lang  Lang  in  the  North,  and  tliese  are  fed  by  iiinumernbk'  little 
rivulets  from  the  gullies  that  intersect  the  hilly  country.  In  many  of  the 
gullies  are  still  coiisideral)le  numbers  of  beautiful  tree-ferns,  although  most 
of  them  have  disappeared  with  the  clearing  of  the  land.  Blackwood  trees, 
too,  are  fairly  numerous  in  parts.  It  is  noticealile  that,  while  tlieie  are  pine 
and  other  trees  about  nearly  all  the  homesteads,  there  is,  in  many  instances, 
a  total  absence  of  live  timbci-  in  the  paddocks,  the  settlers  having  evidently 
been  so  intent  upon  the  clearing  of  the  heavy  timber  that  constituted  one  of 
their  chief  diHiculties  in  the  early  day^.  that  tlie  bi'uefit  of  trees  as  shelter  belts 
was  not  perhaps  fully  appi'eciatcd.  The  grasses  are  principally  cocksfoot, 
clover  and  rye.  which  grow  luxuriantly.  The  land  throughout,  of  coui-se, 
needs  constant  attention,  because  if  holdings  ai'e  neglected  for  a  while,  there 
is  soon  a  heavy  growth  of  bracken  and  undergrowth,  llei-e  and  thei-e  may 
be  seen  areas  of  land  that  have,  through  inattention  in  this  icgjird.  gone  back 
almost  to  a  wild  state:  but  these  :\vv  exceptions. 

Tn  dealing  with  the  developnicnt  of  agricidture.  it  is  necessary  to  bear  in 
mind  that  this  part  of  the  State,  measured  by  the  years  of  its  settlement,  is 
comparatively  in  its  infancy.  Owing  to  the  country  having  been  so  heavily 
timbered  originally,  it  was  impossible  foi-  a  long  pei'iod  aftei-  the  land  was 
occupied,  for  settlers  to  lill  the  soil,  because  clenring  and  burning-olf  uere 
essential  ])reliin,inaries.  I'';irin  orchards  wei'e  phinted.  and  the  growing  of 
pi-oduce  for  home  use  and  (tf  fodder  crops  was  undertaken  to  a  neco^sarily 
limited  extent;  but  agriculture  on  anything  lil<e  a  large  scale  was  practically 


414 


THE   COUNTRY  AS   IT  IS,   1918. 


I'OOWOXG. 
Poowong  is  situated  on  McDonald 's  Track,  about  six  miles  from  Xvora   railway  station. 
The  district  was  settled  between   1874  and  3  880,  and  Poowong  Avas  the  first  townshijj  estab- 
lished in  the  great  forest  of  South  Gippsland.     It  possesses  a  State  School,  Athenteum    (with' 
librarv),  three  churches,  two  banks,  post  office,  etc.,  and  has  a  monthly   market  for  the  sale 
of  stock. 


MIEiBOO  NORTH. 

The  township  of  Mirboo  North  is  situated  109  miles  from  Melbourne,  at  the  terminus 
of  the  branch  railway  line  from  Monvell,  on  the  main  Giiijtsland  line.  It  is  on  the  tO]i  of  a 
range  diA-iding  the  watersheds  of  the  Latrobc  and  Tarwin  Rivers,  and  the  main  street 
divides  an  area  of  poor  country  on  the  north  from  the  rich  chocolate  soil  to  the  south. 
It  has  a  population  of  about  400,  and,  in  addition  to  the  Mirboo  Shire  Hall,  has  three 
churches,  three  banks,  three  hotels,  a  co-operative  butter  factory,  ami  market  yards. 


THE    COUNTRY   AS  IT  1\S,  19iS. 


415 


LOCH. 

Loch  is  prettily  situated  in  a  valley  at  the  jiiuotion  of  the  Bass  and  Also])  Kivers,  distant 
59  miles  by  rail  from  Melbourne.  Jt  contains  State  School,  Mechanics'  Institute  and  library, 
three  churches,  two  banks  (State  and  ("ommoJiwealth  Savinji^s  Banks),  newsiiaper,  police 
station,  hotel,  etc.     It  is  surrounded   i)y  a  ricli  agricidtural  and  dairying  district. 


impo.ssible  u})  to  u  few  yeais  a<!:().  Tho  position  now  is,  iiowever,  very  dif- 
ferent, and  there  has  recently  been  a  remarkable  development  in  this  resi)ect. 
A  steady  expansion  of  the  acreajie  under  ci'ops  in  the  future  may  be  confi- 
dently anticipated.  The  suitability  of  the  .soil  for  the  producli(m  of  root,  as 
well  as  fodder  ei-ops.  has  been  amply  demoiist  rated,  and  (he  <|uantity  and 
quality  of  the  yields  have  been  sliowii  lo  be  eminently  satisfactory.  So  far, 
attention  has  been  directed  principally  to  the  cultivation  of  |)()tatoes,  and  to 
a  lesser  extent  of  onions.  The  potato  orowinii'  industry  is  subject  (o  .set- 
backs on  account  of  disease  aixl  wealhei-  conditions',  and  South  (Jipiishuid 
farmers  have  experienced  their  share  of  these:  but  on  the  whole  the  returns 
have  been  good,  and  constitute  an  important  addition  to  the  income  from  the 
principal  industry  of  dairy  fai'niin<r.  More  land  is  be.,  g  cleared  for  the 
plough  annually.'  and  with  its  great  natural  advantages,  there  is  no  room 
for  doubt  that  the  iini)ortance  Of  this  district  as  a  pi;oducer  of  potatoes, 
onions,  etc.,  will  be  greatly  enhanced  later  on.  An  indication  of  its  pos.s'i- 
bilities  is  given  bv  the  displays  of  farm  produce  exhibits  at  the  several  agri- 
cultural .shows,  where  the  (juality  and  variety  of  .such  exhibits  have  been 
favourably  commented  upon  by  large  numbers  of  visitors  from  other  parts  of 
the  State."  It  is  in  the  fields  rather  than  on  .show  benches,  of  course,  that  the 
true  test  of  the  i)roductivity  of  the  soil  must  be  applied,  and  there  the  opmion 
formed  (III   iii.-])ccli<iii   of  the  iiL:ricnltur;i!  exhibits  is  confirmed. 


416 


THE   COUNTRY  AS   IT  IS,   1918. 


KUi;  L  AlBUE'RA. 


Korunibinra  is  the  t-ajiital  of  the  Shiie  of  Poowoiig  ami  Jeetho,  70  miles  from  Mel- 
slopes  of  the  Strzelecki  Ranges.  Among  the  public  buildings  are  shire  hall,  post  office,  court 
There  are  also  six  churches,  four  banks,  three  hotels,  and  drill  hall;  also  municipal  sale  yards 
service,  and  is  lighted  by  electricity.  There  are  two  newspai)ers  in  the  town,  and  a  telephone 
and  vast   dumps   of  shale   that  have   been   burning  for   five   and   twenty   years,   from   which 


To  the  vi.-itur,  used  to  flat  coiintiy,  the  euhivatiou  of  .some  of  the  steep 
hills,  such  as  there  are  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Korumburra  and  surrounding 
districts,  is  a  source  of  wonder,  because  one  would  think  tliat  the  attempt  would 
lead  to  disaster  to  both  ploughman  and  horses ;  but  with  the  implements  avail- 
able, the  work  is  performed,  and  crops  have  been,  and  are  being,  successfully 
grown  on  hilHdes  that  are  apparently  too  steep  for  any  puipose  other  than  the 
gi-azing  of  s'heep  and  cattle.  One  marked  etfect  of  the  extension  of  agricul- 
ture is  the  improvement  in  the  landscape.  After  having  been  cropped  and 
sown  down  in  grass',  the  land  presents  a  nice  clean  even  surface,  pleasing  to 
the  eye.  That  the:;-  is  a  gi-eat  future  before  the  district  in  respect  of  agri- 
culture is  certain,  and  there  is  reason  for  the  belief  that  the  tendency,"  on 
account  of  this  and  other  factors,  will  be  towards  smaller  holdings  and  closer 
.settlement. 

\^Tiile  the  show  ring  affords  no  certain  evidence  of  the  averao-e  quality  of 
the  herds  in  any  district,  it  may  be  taken  for  granted  that  in  districts'  where 
the  entries  by  local  breeders  of  pure  cattle  are  numerous  and  the  (piality  ex- 
cellent, the  herds  generally  are  quite  up  to.  if  not  above,  the  avera ire"  else- 
where. One  has  only  to  visit  the  Korumburra.  Leongatha  and  other  shows 
to  be  convinced  that  breeders  of  pure  Ayrshire  and  Jersev  cattle,  wliich  have 


THE    COUNTRY   AS   IT   IS,    1918. 


417 


bourne,  on  the  Oroat  Southern  line.  It  is  |iri'tfily  situated  ainoiio  the  hills  on  the  southern 
house,  Meeiianics'  Institute,  a  large  state  8cliooI,  in  rouiiection  with  a  <-oiitinuation  .^i-hool. 
and  sheep  ilijj,  while  a  public  paik  and  show  uiound  are  adjacent.  It  has  a  i>ood  water 
exchange.  Once  a  busy  coalmining  town,  the  industry  is  now  only  represented  by  one  mine, 
material   is  <d  taim'd    for   iiiakiny   footpaths.      Tlic    iiopubitiou    is   about   2.>(»0. 


loiiii"  l)een  ie<i;ii-(U'(|  a>  the  priiu-ipiil  (l»ir\iii,L»'  l)ivi'(l>.  li:i\c  licri'  Mclncx cd 
<ri"fat  siicc-ess.  and  attained  a  lii<rli  standard.  Ayi-.shires  \\-a\v  liccn  in  ^reat 
favonr  with  Sonth  (iii)|)shin(l  dairy  faimeis  all  ah)n;i-.  The  claim-  (d" 
Jerseys,  as  repirds  hntter  prodnct  ion.  have  always  hccii  reroii'nised.  l)ni  (he 
]eanin<r  to  the  Ayi-shire  \)rvv(\  has  been  larjicly  due  lo  the  fact  that  der>eys 
are  iiot  h)ol<ed  on  as  "(hial  pni-pose"  catth'.  deisey  breeders  some  two  or 
three  years  a«r<>  established  tlie  Soiitli  (ri|)|)shind  .Jersey  I'nceder^"  A»ocia- 
tion.  which  aims  at  |)oi)nhirisinii-  this  hreed.  and  ah-ea<ly  u'ood  work  has  l)een 
done,  hnt  it  is  (|nestional)h'  whelhcr  ,lei'-ey>  will  displace  .Vyrshiic^  to  any 
aj)piecial)le  extent.  In  the  disliict  show  r\u<rs  the  e.xhihits  of  holh  breeds 
are  excellent,  and  almost  invariably  the  jndues.  broiiirhl  from  distant  i)arts  of 
the  State — welbknown  and  snccessfnl  breeders  t heinsehcs — have  rcd'erred  in 
the  most  favoinable  terms  to  the  (|nality  and  inunber  of  the  animals  exhibited. 
So  far  as  the  ordinary  dairy  herds  are  concerne<|.  the  .Vyrshire  strain  pre- 
dominates, and  the  axcraire  heid  will  compare  fay  <)inai)ly  with  similar  IicimIs 
elsewhere.  Mnch  remains  to  be  done  to  bfinir  the  yield  pei-  cow  ii|i  to  the 
hi^liest  level  by  cnllin<r  ont  tin  "■wasters,"  and  Ijreedinir  from  the  most  |>ro- 
fitable  cows  in  the  herds:  bnt  altlutnirh  there  are  as  yet  no  hei'd-te>tin<r  asso- 
cialions  in  thi-  di-ti'ict.  the  experience  of  the  dairy   farmers  themselves  leads 


Aa 


418 


THE   COUNTRY  AS   IT  IS,   1918. 


Ll^OXGATHA. 

Leongatha  is  the  head-quarters  of  the  Woorayl  Shire,  and  is  7S  miles  from  Melbourne 
agricultural  country  of  an  un<lulating  character,  with  the  Stizelecki  Eanges  in  tlie  distance, 
attached),  and  there  are  also  four  churches,  State  School,  three  banks,  two  hotels,  a  large 
a  good  water  sujjply,  and  is  lit  by  electricity,  while  its  telephone  system  links  up  many  of 
stone  quarry,  which   supplies  many  of  the  surrounding   districts  with    road   metal. 


to  a  gradual  improvenieiit.  On  almost  every  dairy  lariu.  the  visitor  will  see 
a  sleek,  well-conditioned  herd,  and  the  homesteads'  and  general  surroundings 
1  )esiieak  pros]  )erit y . 

Butter  factories,  mostly  co-operative,  but  a  few  proprietary,  are 
dotted  about  the  district,  and  are  provided  with  the  most  ui:)-to-dat€ 
plant,  as  might  be  exjjected  in  an  essentially  dairying  district,  such  as 
this.  A  proportion  of  the  daii'v  farmers  close  to  the  I'aihvay  line  have  in 
later  years  been  supplying  milk  for  the  city  retail  trade;  but  tlie  great  bulk 
of  the  milk  produced  is  separated  on  the  farms,  and  the  cream  sent  to  one 
or  other  of  the  butter  factories.  On  account  of  the  j^oor  roads  and  heavy 
grades,  home  .separating  was  in  the  first  ca.se  absolutely  es.sential.  and  this 
has  been  continued  up  to  the  present.  It  was  established  years  ago  that  the 
choicest  butter  can  be  manufactured  from  home-separated  cream:  ample 
proof  of  this  has  been  afforded  by  the  very  high  percenetage  of  suj^erhne 
butter  turned  out  by  the  several  butter  factories  and  the  excellent  ))rices  it 
has  realised  in  both  the  Connnonwealth  and  England,  (neat  credit  is  due 
to  those  who  have  .so  successfully  conducted  the  co-oj)erative  butter  fac- 
tories, which  have  been  beyond  doubt  an  imj^ortant  factor  in  the  steady  pro- 
gress of  the  dairying  industry.  The  cream  is  collected  by  the  butter  factory 
companies  from  a  radius  of  many  miles. 


THE   COUNTRY   AS   IT  IS,    1918. 


419 


'  ■  ^/i^r^-t.  ?r'^ss^f^?^*T7rS^ ' "'  '■ ' 


on  the  'Great  Houthern  line.  It  has  a  jjopiilation  of  about  2000,  and  js  surrounded  by  rich 
The  public  buildings  compri.se  jiost  oflice,  shire  hall,  athena-uni,  high  school  (with  hostel 
co-operative  butter  factory,  one  newsjinper,  show  grounds  and  numicipal  sale  yards.  It  has 
the  farms  in  the  district.     In  the  vicinity  are  the  Leongatha  Labour  Colony,  and  a   valuable 


That    the     iiiii»orlaiux'     of     pi^     raising     a.<     an      adjunct      in     dairy 

farming     is     generally     recognised,     will     readily     lie 
.-_i-    .,       .  I-      J.I..       r. .      :.,      4.1,.,      ,i;,.t,.w.f  \,>.ii. 


Sliee[)  and  cattle  grazing  is  cairied  on  to  only  a  limited  e.\tenl.  judged 
by  the  standai'ds  in  purely  grazing  districl.s.  However,  on  many  of  the  dairy 
fai-ins  s'ome  sheej)  are  nni.  and  those  landiioldei's  who  devote  their  attention 
principally  to  grazing  have  achieved  success,  though  (hn'ing  the  last  two  or 
three  years  the  dairy  farmers  have  had  the  l»etter  of  the  deal,  owing  to  the 
high  prices  ruling  for  Wiitterfat.  There  are  (locks  of  i)inv-l»re(l  Horder- 
Leice.sters.  English-Leicesters,  Lincoln  nnd  Shropshires  in  the  district,  and 
the  breeders  have  been  siicces'sftd  not  only  at  (Ji|)psland  shows,  but  also  at 
the  Mell)oiniie  lioyal  Show.  l^atterly  s(.me  iJonniey-Marsh  sheep  have  been 
bi-ought  into  the  district.      .Ml  these  breecb  do  well  here,  as  also  do  the  cro.s,s- 


4-20  THE    COUNTRY    AS   IT  IS,    1918. 

lnvJs.  Fatten  ill";  cattle  has  pi-oved  profitable,  and  considerable  numbers  of 
"fats"  are  sent  to  the  Melboui-ne  markets,  especially  from  the  Lebngatha  dis- 
trict. 

The  Shows  held  under  the  auspices  of  the  Agricultural  Societies  in  this 
part  of  (irippsland  compare  favourably  for  all-round  excellence  with  those 
in  any  other  portion  of  the  State.  Draught  hor.ses  are  not  so  numerously  re- 
presented as  at  many  northern  shows,  but  with  the  development  of  agricul- 
ture heavy  horses'  are  sure  to  be  more  used.  As  regards  light  horses,  includ- 
ing thoroughbreds,  there  is  invariably  a  fine  display  at  these  shows,  the  class 
for  ponies,  which  are  particularly  numerous,  is  always  well  filled.  The  CMttle 
exhibits  always  attract  the  attention  of  visitors  from  other  districts,  especi- 
ally the  dairying  breeds.  Sheep  and  swine  exiliibits  are  also  of  a  uniformly 
high  standard,  and  the  agricultural  and  other  exhibits  evidence  the  keen 
interest  that  is  taken  by  the  i-esidents  of  the  respecti^'e  districts  in  the  shows. 
The  Korumburra  and  District  Agricultural  and  Pastoral  Society  has  just 
held  its  :i5th  annual  show,  and  its  record  is  one  of  continuous  progress.  Prior 
to  the  war  the  prize-money  offered  totalled  al)out  £4."')().  l)ut  on  account  of  the 
altered  conditions  a  reduction  was  inevitable.  The  Leongatlia  Agricultural 
Society  was  established  some  years  later,  and  it  has  also  become  a  strong 
s'ociety.  Other  societies  are  Lang  Lang,  and  Dalyston.  the  latter  having  been 
inaugurated  only  in  recent  years. 

For  a  long  period  the  making  of  traiiical)le  roads  was  one  of  the  nu^st 
serious  problems  the  settlers  had  to  face.  Originally,  roads  were  marked  out 
on  the  draughtboard  plan.  and.  as  can  be  easilj'  understood,  in  the  hilly 
.country  from  Xyora  to  Leongatha.  and  for  many  miles  on  both  sides  of  the 
railway  line,  roads  marked  on  the  plan  were  in  many  cases  u.seless.  The 
shire  councils  had.  therefore,  with  the  limited  means  at  their  tlisposal.  to 
acquire  land  for  deviations,  and  many  thousands  of  pounds  were  expended  in 
this  way.  with  the  object  of  obtaining  roads  with  tralhcable  grades.  I^ater 
on,  metalling  the  principal  highways  from  centres  on  the  railway  line  was 
commenced,  but  the  expense  was  so  great  that  progress  was  necessarily  slow. 
The  passing  of  the  Country  Roads  Act  and  the  establishment  of  the  Board 
was  the  Ijeginning  of  a  new  era  for  the  district  in  this  respect.  The  principal 
roads  were  declared  main  roads  under  the  Act.  and  within  a  short  time  work 
Avas  commenced.  Had  it  not  been  for  the  wai-.  several  of  these  roads,  o^■er 
which  the  traffic  is  particularly  heavy,  would  have  been  completed.  As  it  is, 
even  those  who  had  serious  misgivings  regarding  the  result  of  the  new  policy 
fi-eely  admit  that  the  operations  of  the  Board  have  already  been  attended 
with  very  beneficial  results  to  some  of  the  men  on  the  land.  The  munici- 
palities, if  they  had  to  rely  upon  their  own  resources,  could  not  have  at- 
tempted, for  a  generation  at  least,  to  cany  out  road  Avorks  on  anything  like 
the  same  scale.  It  has  been  fre(|uently  pointed  out  that  good  roads  are  as' 
essential  to  the  development  of  the  lich  hill  country  of  (iippsland  as  irriga- 
tion is  to  the  northern  districts,  and  the  grading  and  metalling  of  the  prin- 
cipal thoroughfares  by  the  Country  Roads  Board  will  ultimately  be  of  incal- 
culable benefit  to  this  district.  The  total  cost  of  the.se  works  has  averaged 
about  £2000  per  mile,  the  Board  having  determined  to  secure  the  best  grades 
and  solidly  constructed  roads.  Subsidiary  roads  are  in  many  iiistances  still 
badly  in  need  of  attention,  but  their  ijninovement  is  only  a  niatter  of  time. 
The  sections  of  the  roads  connecting  Korumburra.  Poowong.  and  Drouin; 
Korumburra  and  Leongatha:  Korumburra.  Kougwak.  and  Wouthaggi:  Poo- 
wong, Xyora.  and  Bena ;  Loch,  the  Glenalvic  district,  and  Wonthaogi:  that 
have  been  completed,  have  entirely  altered   the  condition   of  affairs   with   re- 


THE   COUNTRY   AS  IT  IS,   1918. 


4-21 


.ILWIHI  .\.\A. 

Jumbuiina  is'  a  siiiall  coal  ininino  town  on  the  laihvaj  lino  from  Korunihiiira  to  Oiittiiin. 
It  lies  in  a  pictiuesque  position,  and  is  well  sheltered  by  the  surroiindino-  hills.  It  simvos 
as  a  railway  ccntro  for  the   t't-rtile  districts  of  Moyarra.   Koii;t\\ji}<   and   Olonnlvic. 


sp»ct  to  I'Ojicl  tnirtic  in  the  Poowoiiii'  aiui  Jcctho  Shire,  niid  in  iht-  \\'(iiir;i yl 
iShire,  whicli  lias  it<  hoadquai'ter^  at  Leoiigatlia  :  and  in  the  IMiilip  l.-hunl  and 
AVoolomai  Sliiiv.  main  road  cniisti-nctioii  is  e(|nally  appreciated.  \>'iien 
the  gTadina'  an<l  inetalliiiii  <»f  tiie  whole  of  those  roads  is  coniphded.  ihcre 
shonhl  l)e  a  niMiiced  and  sustained  increase  in  j)rodncti()n.  I^'roni  (lie  social 
as  well  as  the  iit  ilitai'ian  aspect  these  road  inipi"o\('nienl->  are  (d'  liie  iilimivi 
inii^ortance.  and  in  this  regard  the  conditions  ure  inlinitidy  heitcr  ih.Mi  they 
weic  tci!  year-  auo. 

It  is  only  fair  to  state,  however,  thai  in  die  (>i»ini(.n  of  many  ex- 
perienced men.  the  system  of  road-makinu  adi»|ili'd  hy  the  Board,  in- 
volving, as  it  does,  an  expenditure  of  over  £2000  a  mile,  is  too  costly  for 
the  needs  of  tliis  disti'icl.  They  poini  out  that,  althoniih  the  conditions  of 
the  settlers  on  the  highly  improved  main  road^  are  greatly  improxcd.  lh<»se 
s'ituated  even  a  comparatively  r,hort  distance  from  these  main  thoronghfares 
are  little  hetter  otl'  than  hefore,  for  the  reason  that  the  roads  from  theii'  pi-o- 
perties  are  in  s'nch  a  deploral)le  condition  as  to  pre\'ent  \-ehicnlar  li-a(lic  to  the 
main  roads  during  the  Wintei-  season.  Thev  consider  that  (hei-e  is  no  pro- 
spect of  improvement  on  the.se  sifle  road.s,  as  the  i cy  lo  he  proxideij  hy  ihe 

shires  foi-  maintenance  on  the  main  roads  already  t;d<en  oxer,  if  the  |»rc--ent 
system  of  constiaiction  he  maintained,  will  al)Sorh  a  !;iri:i'  piopoi'l  ion  ol  llie 
municipal   fund.        Tt    is  proposed   hy  the  PjoW'-er  (loxernmenl    to   inlroilnci'  a 


422 


THE   COUNTRY  AS  IT  IS,   1918. 


wo-\tha(;gi. 

Wonthaggi  is  sitiiatfil  at  the  terminus  of  the  railway  line  from  Xyora,  S(i  miles  from 
Coal  Mine,  which  was  developed  in  ]90ri  to  make  good  a  shortage  of  coal  caused  by  a  coal 
the  plains  between  the  forest  country  and  the  coast.  It  possesses  a  municipal  hall,  post  and 
State  Savings  Banks),  four  hotels,  a  court  house,  two  newspapers,  besides  theatres,  skating 
Hollins,  an  early  settler,  at  £15  per  acre.     The  annual  municipal  valuation   (1918)   is  £21,740. 


Bill  to  provide  £500,000  for  subsidiary  roads,  the  Premier  stating-,  in  refer- 
ring to  the  proposal,  on  February  5th.  1918.  that  "the  Country  Eoads  Board 
Act  has  not  given  that  assistance  to  the  producer  in  districts  distant  from 
railways  and  at  right  angles  from  them,  which  its  authors  believed  it  would 
do."  Certainly,  there  is  ground  for  this  statement,  Avhich  appears  to  justify 
the  criticisms  that  have  been  levelled  at  the  Act  in  this  respect. 

Note. — Since  the  -ibove  wUiS  written  Parliament  has  ])rovided  £1.000.000 
\()  be  spent  bv  the  Board  on  these  "subsidiary"  roads. 

A  line  of  raihvay  from  Koo-Avee-rup  to  McDonald's  Track  at  Strzelecki 
was  decided  upon  by  Parliament  a  few  years  ago,  and  the  work  of  construc- 
tion was  commenced;  but.  as  was  the  case  with  so  many  other  works  of  a 
similar  character,  construction  had  to  be  suspended  on  account  of  the  financial 
situation  consequent  U]>on  the  war.  This  will  be  a  developmental  line,  ajid  it 
is  expected  to  have  a  decided  influence  in  increasing  j^'oduction  in  tlie  area 
of  countrv  it  will  serve. 


THE   COUNTRY   AS   IT   IS,   1918. 


423 


Melbourne.  It  is  a  borough  with  about.  .^<Mii)  inhabitants,  and  owes  its  e-xistencc  to  the  J^tate 
strike  in  New  South  Wales.  It  is  the  centre  of  an  extensive  coal-hearing  area  situated  on 
telegraph  office,  tele|)hone  exchange,  six  churches,  five  banks  (including  Commonwealth  and 
rinks,  bowling  greens,  etc.  The  site  of  the  towni,  1280  acres,  was  ])urchased  from  Mr.  .lohii 
AVater  is  supplied  from  a  reservoir  nine  miles  distant,  situated  in  the  hills  near   Kong-wak. 


By  re:is()ii  <»f  its  ureal  ii;itiii;il  ;i(l\  :ii)l:i_ii('s.  (hi.s  part  of  tlu'  Stale  iiiav  Ite 
truly  said  to  merit  the  title  of  "the  irai-den  of  Victoria."  Kmineiilh  -iiiled 
for  closer  settlement,  it  is  in(liil)ital)ly  capahle  of  eanvinu-  a  iniich  lari.'-er 
population  than  it  has  at  pre.sent.  Su'iallei-  lioldiiifTs  can  l)e  inorc  ea-ily.  and. 
taking  into  account  the  value  of  the  hind,  moie  j^rofilahlv  woiked  thiiti  tan 
those  of  300  acres  or  more.  The  al»ility  of  settlers  to  oldaiii  a  good  li\(>li- 
hood  from  less  than  100  acres  has  l)een  demonstrated  in  various  ]»arls  ol"  ilie 
di.strict,  and  there  is  reason  to  believe  thin  tiie  general  lendency  will  he  in  I  he 
direction  of  suhdixision  of  the  larger  into  smaller  hoMings.  Having  reached 
a  .stage  in  its  de\('lo])ment  tiiat  was  |)asse(l  hy  the  ^^'eslern  District  twenty  to 
thirty  year.s  ago,  a  more  ra|)i(l  advance  than  has  been  made  (mcii  duriMu  the 
last  ten  years  may  be  (^oididently  anticipated.  Daii-y  ("armiiij.'-  will  no  doiibl 
continue  the  principal  industry,  but  agriculture  is  sure  to  play  a  more  im- 
portant part  as  time  goes  on. 


4-2-t 


THE     COUNTRY  AS  IT  IS,   1918. 


HILL    r(»rNTUY    rNI)ER 


HILL    «,«•(  NIUV     rSKlk 


THE   COUNTRY   AS  IT  IS,   1918 


425 


r 


CULTIVATION. 


AS     DAIKV     FARM. 


426 


THE   COUNTRY  AS   IT  IS,   1918. 


GOOD     DAIUYINi; 


1111. 1. V  ('or.N'rKY 


THE   COUNTRY   AS   IT  IS,   1918. 


427 


COUNTRY. 


'fMO^ 


WKI.I.   CI.KAKKI). 


L 


Return   Furnished   by  Victorian   Commissioners  for  the    Period   of  5  Years  —  From    1909   to    1914. 


PaSSENGEr<S 

PARCBLS                     1 

HORSES,  CAKUIAGES 
ud   DOGS 

GOODS 

LIVESTOCK 

UVE  STOCK 

STATION. 

0 

,...,d. 

o„,.„d. 

,„..,ds 

o.,»„d. 

-- 

C 

uiwacxjs 

'""""" 

o.,.„«. 

,„».^ 

Oumtrd 

,„„.M. 

,•„..,„„ 

„„.,.» 

»...,ue 

„e,-„u. 

„„.„„ 

T„.„.,= 

R.v..,» 

To™.KC 

»ev„„ 

R...n.. 

R..»„ 

C.l,„ 

cue 

H„„„ 

PiliS 

Shnp       CaKes 

C.„l, 

Ho„,. 

rill. 

simp 

From  Lane  Lane  to  Leoniaiha 

£     s. 

d. 

«       s.    d. 

£     s.  d. 

£     s.    d. 

£ 

5.    d. 

£       5.   d. 

£      s.   d. 

k      s.    d. 

£      s. 

d. 

LanK  L.uiK 

<6.649 

4,324     9 

0 

804      .      0 

822     5     7 

72    19     2 

176 

17     2 

6,576 

2,826     9   11 

9,911 

4,793     9   11 

2.564     1    10 

1 .349      1 

9 

5.755 

6,280 

1,562 

11,289 

34,473 

156 

2.250 

964 

515 

3II.IUt. 

Nyor.i 

62.850 

7,665     2 

2 

754     6     0 

903     7   11 

36    19     2 

88 

17     0 

12.346 

3,484   13      1 

60,504 

8.935    14      2 

1.210   11     7 

620     2 

6 

144 

3,546 

238 

155 

15,150 

71 

1,519 

328 

SO 

11,814 

Loci. 

fi5,69u 

5,048  12 

' 

1,029     0     5 

978     7     8 

66   19     3 

63 

9     3 

8.747 

3,140     3     4 

9,754 

4,683   11      7 

4,298     9     8 

2,300     i 

3 

2,201 

10,838 

736 

1,833 

66,937 

128 

5,528 

310 

294 

46,925 

J.„l... 

20.899 

1,579     4 

5 

716  13     6 

209   16     1 

19   16     3 

9 

6     0 

829 

568  1 1      9 

2,586 

1,036     7     7 

1,765      1      5 

300  19 

2 

495 

5,205 

260 

518 

22.538 

67 

311 

77 

1 

11.509 

He„a 

20.017 

1,791    14 

9 

345     1     3 

299     5    11 

43     4     2 

16 

9     0 

2.034 

1,422      1      5 

6,683 

2.635    13     9 

4,470     S     6 

2.009     4 

0 

3.196 

9.562 

119 

4,467 

68.770 

152 

3,816 

161 

407 

43,315 

WhucUw      .. 

619 

50     i 

5 

0     4     8 

16     3    11 

6     9     0 

0 

8     6 

140 

61      7     2 

1,114 

232    16     1 

18     5     8 

- 

- 

- 

6 

108 

- 

- 

- 

- 

- 

Korumburra 

181,835 

20.388     0 

2 

2,257     3   10 

2,312   14     8 

222    17      1 

124 

16     7 

89,949 

24,498   13    11 

+9,320 

22.003    16     9 

3,922    14     9 

2,621     2 

5 

5,571 

10.275 

1.943 

11.706 

26,374 

781 

7,511 

1,206 

3.182 

47,208 

KarJi'lIn 

20.345 

894    11 

9 

86     4     0 

176     6     0 

1    11      0 

4 

13     0 

1,780 

884   11      9 

1,351 

725   14     2 

2   13     0 

27   18 

9 

41 

- 

- 

6 

- 

22 

i 

1.060 

l(„»y 

15,886 

898   13 

11 

1611     8    10 

159     7     6 

13     7     6 

5 

12     3 

4,005 

1,849     4     6 

3,184 

1,547     7    11 

1,748   18     2 

440    14 

9 

334 

2,898 

16 

69 

35,752 

90 

379 

104 

" 

12,187 

LeoiiKalha 

From  Jumlunna  to  Outtrim 

95,!91 

15.152  18 

' 

1 ,400     3      1 

199     2     6 

182 

7     4 

75,036 

15,243   11      0 

27.515 

17.761      9      1 

10,171      0     5 

3,445   14 

11 

3,786 

25.707 

1.734 

11.39.H 

70.294 

193 

6,922 

493 

■41- 

Juinb.inna 

47,3(.n 

J.304     4 

10 

237    13     2 

639    U      7 

19     3     6 

17 

3     3 

219,129 

49,861      8     6 

7.600 

4,654   10     7 

1,551    15     6 

290     3 

8 

Outlrim   Norlh 

32,011 

562     4 

0 

0     3     3 

8   17     8 

3    19     0 

0 

4     6 

26 

31    13     0 

- 

- 

Outlrim 

16,863 

1.612   16 

11 

211      2     9 

692     1      1 

8   12     3 

24 

0     0 

91,070 

18,018   14     6 

6.786 

4.401      7     9 

189     8   10 

29     3 

10 

From  Nyora  to  Wonthagti 

V\'onth.iKKi  Liii. 

1«7,540 

>8,12r    12 

0 

3.300     9     1 

5,435    19     0 

186   19     3 

402 

16     5 

786,115 

217,334   16     4 

148.997 

73,368     0     2 

3.562     6     1 

1,860     3 

6 

UNIVERSITY  OF  CALIFORNIA  LIBRARY 

Los  Angeles 

This  book  is  DUE  on  the  last  date  stamped  below. 


DEC  1 3  1989 


Form  L9-10m-l, '52(9291)444 


DU 

230 

GuiiL22 


Univeraily  of  CMna.  Us  AngMs 


L  005  414  259  1